[neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-12 Thread petehand
Last word on the trigger clock, from me anyway:

Upping the anode resistors to 43k didn't work as expected. I finally 
settled on the optimum value at 30k. I swapped the 50 minute tube with its 
associated nixie driver tube. The ring counted just fine but the '5' never 
went out - the tube was WAY too sensitive and had to be changed out.

Most unexpectedly, it now runs just fine in the light and in the dark 
without any UV stimulation. It seemed to be getting a bit sensitive, so I 
removed the LEDs as an experiment. None of the rings has missed a step in 
over a week. Perhaps after being run continuously for three or four weeks, 
the tubes aged and settled down.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-12 Thread threeneurons
Nice to hear that ! Guess that's why the emphasized the aging process in 
old neons used for logic. Guess that applies to triggers, too. Kinda makes 
sense. Great Job ! I love seeing these things !

On Saturday, April 12, 2014 2:44:41 AM UTC-7, petehand wrote:

 Last word on the trigger clock, from me anyway:

 ... I removed the LEDs as an experiment. None of the rings has missed a 
 step in over a week. Perhaps after being run continuously for three or four 
 weeks, the tubes aged and settled down.



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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-04 Thread Nick
Mostly, I do valve (tube to our transatlantic cousins) amplifiers these 
days.

Over on some of the UK groups we've been having discussions about the UV 
risk from Hg rectifiers - it seems though that the glass absorbs pretty 
much all the dangerous UV

I asked the question about a year ago on the rather eccentric/abstruse 
UK-based Audio-Talk (lot of clever people there) - the thread is at: 
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4920 

The general opinion was that radiation below 300nm would mostly be absorbed 
by the envelope but that UV-A would escape (intensity falls off at a rate 
of 1/(r^2). Main problem seems to be that it cause a lot of plastics to 
degenerate... the response from IslandPink, who is a physicist and 
commercial lens designer is the one you need to read...

Nick

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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-03 Thread Tidak Ada
I have here an addendum from RCA to their 0Z4 datasheet

eric

-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Charles MacDonald
Sent: donderdag 3 april 2014 3:56
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

On 14-04-02 05:19 PM, Instrument Resources of America wrote:
 P.S. Maybe someone here can elaborate on why Raytheon numbered it as 
 0Z4G rather than 0Z4GT which would have made more sense, and adhered to
 industry tube standards.  As I do not have clue.  Ira.

I looked and could not find the G version in the JEDEC files.

My guess is that it really did come out as a G version, like a 6V6G, 50l6G
etc, but the tiny little bulb is of course much smaller than the Bantam
(GT or T9 size)  Most G tubes had an ST bulb


-- 
Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario
cm...@zeusprune.ca  Just Beyond the Fringe
http://Charles.MacDonald.org/tubes
No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.

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0Z4G_data.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document


0Z4G Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-03 Thread Charles MacDonald

On 14-04-02 10:55 PM, Instrument Resources of America wrote:

Hello Charles, It is there. 0Z4, 0Z4G, along with 0Z4A.This appears to
be an oddity. As far as the JEDEC files in the TCA 'data cache' go the
0Z4G is listed in the INDEX under Main type, and references the same
exact release number as the plain 0Z4 of #49. Upon opening up release
#49 there is only data on the 0Z4 and nothing for the 0Z4G.


I was using search in the Mail release file and the 0Z4G did not come 
up.  I think I only have one of the little guys, and I recall when I 
checked it on my Conar Emission Tester it did have a nice glow.


No I suspect that it was only made with the little T7 bulb, which is 
about the size of the bulb in the metal version


That is Shown in My old  Canadian General Electric Radiotron Manual also.

My guess is that the rest of the metal tubes almost always had a G 
version before the T9 GT versions were invented, so the glass version of 
the 0Z4 was also called G.  The rest of the G version tubes were 
originaly made in the ST-14 envelope, and changed to the GT name when 
downsized to the T9 bulb.  BUT you could not downsize the 0Z4G.


Anyone remember the GT/G designation?

--
Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontario
cm...@zeusprune.ca  Just Beyond the Fringe
http://Charles.MacDonald.org/tubes
No Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.

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Re: 0Z4G Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-03 Thread Instrument Resources of America
I agree that the G version of almost all tubes I can think of that had 
that designation, were of the ST glass shape, except for at least this 
one odd ball 0Z4G, with the T-7 glass. The GT versions applied to 'any' 
glass 'tubular' tube regardless of the size, think 6SN7GT versus 5U4GT, 
etc.   And yes I do remember seeing the GT/G designation, and still not 
quite sure what that was all about. I guess that it may have meant that 
the GT was a direct replacement for the G. Darned if I know for sure.   Ira.




On 4/3/2014 12:20 PM, Charles MacDonald wrote:

On 14-04-02 10:55 PM, Instrument Resources of America wrote:

Hello Charles, It is there. 0Z4, 0Z4G, along with 0Z4A.This appears to
be an oddity. As far as the JEDEC files in the TCA 'data cache' go the
0Z4G is listed in the INDEX under Main type, and references the same
exact release number as the plain 0Z4 of #49. Upon opening up release
#49 there is only data on the 0Z4 and nothing for the 0Z4G.


I was using search in the Mail release file and the 0Z4G did not come 
up.  I think I only have one of the little guys, and I recall when I 
checked it on my Conar Emission Tester it did have a nice glow.


No I suspect that it was only made with the little T7 bulb, which is 
about the size of the bulb in the metal version


That is Shown in My old  Canadian General Electric Radiotron Manual also.

My guess is that the rest of the metal tubes almost always had a G 
version before the T9 GT versions were invented, so the glass version 
of the 0Z4 was also called G.  The rest of the G version tubes were 
originaly made in the ST-14 envelope, and changed to the GT name when 
downsized to the T9 bulb.  BUT you could not downsize the 0Z4G.


Anyone remember the GT/G designation?



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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-03 Thread John Rehwinkel
However, in thiis tube, the metal shell serves chiefly as container and 
electrostatic shield
 for the glass bulb, which is required to insulate the contained gas from the 
grounded shell.

I hadn't thought about that!  Just enclosing it in a metal shell wouldn't work 
with a gas tube!

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread petehand
Oooh, those are sterilizing wavelength. They could erase an EPROM and do 
some damage to your eyesight.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Grahame Marsh
Perhaps I should use something less vivacious, yes.  At first I just 
left the strip light over the workshop bench on (40W at 1.5m) and that 
was fine as well.  I used the pond lamp as I had a spare to hand - it 
needs to go out to the pond filter box now it is spring.   Perhaps a 
black light lamp for crystal and rock displays? But I think I'm 
putting my trust in the Z700U for the next trigger tube clock (all valve 
of course).


Grahame

On 02/04/2014 07:07, petehand wrote:
Oooh, those are sterilizing wavelength. They could erase an EPROM and 
do some damage to your eyesight.


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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Tidak Ada
May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) does the
same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is better for your
electricity bill.
Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they have no
filament.
Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?
 
eric

  _  

From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Grahame Marsh
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 12:37
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited


Perhaps I should use something less vivacious, yes.  At first I just left
the strip light over the workshop bench on (40W at 1.5m) and that was fine
as well.  I used the pond lamp as I had a spare to hand - it needs to go out
to the pond filter box now it is spring.   Perhaps a black light lamp for
crystal and rock displays? But I think I'm putting my trust in the Z700U for
the next trigger tube clock (all valve of course).

Grahame

On 02/04/2014 07:07, petehand wrote:


Oooh, those are sterilizing wavelength. They could erase an EPROM and do
some damage to your eyesight.


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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread David Forbes

0Z4 is metal.
0Z4G is glass.
0Z4GT is glass, but tubular, not curvaceous.

On 4/2/2014 1:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?

:D

On 02/04/2014 20:39, Tidak Ada wrote:

Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum current of
30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 18:40
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited


May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) does

the same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is better for
your electricity bill.

Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they have no

filament.

Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?

Argon tubes also emit a useful amount of UV.  Maybe an ordinary AR-1 argon
bulb, or an 0Z4G rectifier?

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Instrument Resources of America
There were TWO versions, metal can with octal base, which by far and 
away was the majority of them, and also a GLASS version, 0Z4G. Ira.





On 4/2/2014 1:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?

:D

On 02/04/2014 20:39, Tidak Ada wrote:
Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum 
current of

30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On

Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 18:40
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited


May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) does
the same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is 
better for

your electricity bill.

Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they have no

filament.

Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?
Argon tubes also emit a useful amount of UV.  Maybe an ordinary AR-1 
argon

bulb, or an 0Z4G rectifier?

- John

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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Instrument Resources of America

P.S. Pic enclosed here of 0Z4G.Ira.



On 4/2/2014 1:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?

:D

On 02/04/2014 20:39, Tidak Ada wrote:
Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum 
current of

30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On

Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 18:40
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited


May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) does
the same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is 
better for

your electricity bill.

Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they have no

filament.

Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?
Argon tubes also emit a useful amount of UV.  Maybe an ordinary AR-1 
argon

bulb, or an 0Z4G rectifier?

- John

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attachment: 41_1.JPGattachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Grahame Marsh
Right, I've only seen the metal can version - that was a few years ago 
as well. G


On 02/04/2014 21:21, Instrument Resources of America wrote:

P.S. Pic enclosed here of 0Z4G.Ira.



On 4/2/2014 1:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?

:D

On 02/04/2014 20:39, Tidak Ada wrote:
Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum 
current of

30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On

Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 18:40
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) 
does
the same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is 
better for

your electricity bill.

Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they have no

filament.

Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?
Argon tubes also emit a useful amount of UV.  Maybe an ordinary AR-1 
argon

bulb, or an 0Z4G rectifier?

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Instrument Resources of America
By the way Grahame, FYI, they were used extensively, (and only???) as 
the cold cathode full wave rectifiers, in vibrator type power supplies, 
for automobile radios.  I know of no other use, but might be interesting 
to see what others here may say on that. Ira.



On 4/2/2014 1:30 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:
Right, I've only seen the metal can version - that was a few years ago 
as well. G


On 02/04/2014 21:21, Instrument Resources of America wrote:

P.S. Pic enclosed here of 0Z4G.Ira.



On 4/2/2014 1:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?

:D

On 02/04/2014 20:39, Tidak Ada wrote:
Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum 
current of

30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On

Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 18:40
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) 
does
the same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is 
better for

your electricity bill.
Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they 
have no

filament.

Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?
Argon tubes also emit a useful amount of UV.  Maybe an ordinary 
AR-1 argon

bulb, or an 0Z4G rectifier?

- John

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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Instrument Resources of America
Upon further investigation in TCA's data cache, I find the following, 
0Z4 first registered by Raytheon on Oct 24th 1935 with a metal shell 
which tapered down in size as it got closer to the top of the metal 
shell, an 0Z4A first registered by Raytheon on Oct 15th 1956, with the 
standard metal shell. The index in the data cache lists an 0Z4G (no GT 
ever registered) but when I actually go to the same release number which 
is cited, the same as the 0Z4, there is no information there to be had 
on the 0Z4G. The only thing I can say is that I have an 0Z4G with 
'tubular' glass envelope, not an 'ST' envelope, which is somewhat 
curious.  Raytheon receiving tube data book bears out the fact that 
their 0Z4G was in fact tubular glass and not ST glass. You would think 
that the nomenclature would have been 0Z4GT but it was not.  Go figure!! 
Ira.



On 4/2/2014 1:20 PM, David Forbes wrote:

0Z4 is metal.
0Z4G is glass.
0Z4GT is glass, but tubular, not curvaceous.

On 4/2/2014 1:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?

:D

On 02/04/2014 20:39, Tidak Ada wrote:
Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum 
current of

30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On

Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: woensdag 2 april 2014 18:40
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

May be an open mercury vapor rectifier, like a 866 (not an 866A !) 
does
the same. If you can get one with lower heater consumption it is 
better for

your electricity bill.

Don't know what spectrum OSAGE rectifiers radiate. anyhow they have no

filament.

Any other small mercury tubes that could do the job?
Argon tubes also emit a useful amount of UV.  Maybe an ordinary AR-1 
argon

bulb, or an 0Z4G rectifier?

- John

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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Charles MacDonald

On 14-04-02 04:15 PM, Grahame Marsh wrote:


Isn't the 0Z4 in a metal can?



Nice! So a 0Z4G is OK, Thaen is the next sorrow to meet a minimum
current of
30mA, needed for maintaining the conduction.
I love that 0Z4G!


One of the long line of exception to the rule  the 0Z4G is a cute 
little glass enclosed gas rectifier.  AND the more common 0Z$ is 
actually the only Metal tube that will still work if you open the shell! 
 inside is a small Glass bulb!


Attachment is a couple of paragraphs from the original data sheet.

The 0Z4 is an oldie but a goodie, having been introduced back in Oct 
1935 by Raytheon.  the 0Z4A version came out in 1956, so it is a long 
running production item.




--
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cm...@zeusprune.ca  Just Beyond the Fringe
http://Charles.MacDonald.org/tubes
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attachment: 0Z4Disc.png

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Charles MacDonald

On 14-04-02 05:19 PM, Instrument Resources of America wrote:

P.S. Maybe someone here can elaborate on why Raytheon numbered it as
0Z4G rather than 0Z4GT which would have made more sense, and adhered to
industry tube standards.  As I do not have clue.  Ira.


I looked and could not find the G version in the JEDEC files.

My guess is that it really did come out as a G version, like a 6V6G, 
50l6G etc, but the tiny little bulb is of course much smaller than the 
Bantam (GT or T9 size)  Most G tubes had an ST bulb



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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-02 Thread Instrument Resources of America
Hello Charles, It is there. 0Z4, 0Z4G, along with 0Z4A.This appears to 
be an oddity. As far as the JEDEC files in the TCA 'data cache' go the 
0Z4G is listed in the INDEX under Main type, and references the same 
exact release number as the plain 0Z4 of #49. Upon opening up release 
#49 there is only data on the 0Z4 and nothing for the 0Z4G. I have 
looked in the RCA and Raytheon literature for the 0Z4G and find it in 
both places with an envelope of T-7, with a small shell octal base.  I 
went all the way back to RCA 'RC14' copyright of 1940 where I first 
found it listed for RCA on pg. 47.  If it EVER came out as a G version 
with ST glass I can't find any evidence of it at all, any where. The 
0Z4'G' that I have, along with other collectors, is with T-7 glass just 
as it is listed everywhere. Does anyone here have or seen an 0Z4'G' with 
ST glass??  Ira.




On 4/2/2014 6:55 PM, Charles MacDonald wrote:

On 14-04-02 05:19 PM, Instrument Resources of America wrote:

P.S. Maybe someone here can elaborate on why Raytheon numbered it as
0Z4G rather than 0Z4GT which would have made more sense, and adhered to
industry tube standards.  As I do not have clue.  Ira.


I looked and could not find the G version in the JEDEC files.

My guess is that it really did come out as a G version, like a 6V6G, 
50l6G etc, but the tiny little bulb is of course much smaller than the 
Bantam (GT or T9 size)  Most G tubes had an ST bulb





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attachment: IRACOSALES.vcf

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-01 Thread petehand
I admire the holy purity of your art, Grahame, to make a tube regulated 
PSU. I'm afraid the presence in my junk box of a small mains transformer 
with 200V and 24V secondaries but no suitable heater voltage led me to 
stray from the path of righteousness and yield to the cheap seduction of 
semiconductor rectifiers.

I recall my friend from Hivac mentioning that the XC15/CV2486 was 
radioactive doped, and they had a relationship with Harwell to supply 
isotopes. They probably used Krypton 85, which has about a ten year 
half-life. My tubes all have a 78 date code so the activity will only be 
12% of when they were new.

Tomorrow I'm going to change the 50 minute tube, since I can't tame it. It 
now consistently gives me a 10 minute hour. What's very strange is that it 
always hands over to the 00 minute tube as it should, but then takes the 
glow back on the next minute pulse at 01. I suspect it's getting electrical 
noise from the adjacent unit minute track, since the tens ring doesn't get 
a pulse at that time. Or, it could be board contamination - I've had some 
trouble with that because of the small clearances.

The clock has an annoying tendency to light several tubes in the same ring 
when I'm trying to set it - probably switch bounce. It's sometimes 
recoverable by working the switch, but the totally reliable solution is a 
push button for each ring, discreetly hidden away on the back out of sight, 
that directly grounds one cathode. It's not needed very often but it beats 
having to power down, wait for all the glows to go out, and then start over.

I'm taking it to the local Maker Faire at the weekend. It's totally 
unrelated to the booth I'll be minding, but I'm going to hang it on the 
wall to attract some extra visitors. They'll probably ask whether I'm 
running it with an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi. };


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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-01 Thread Nick


 For the last Lord knows how many years I've been intending to follow in 
 Grahame's footsteps and build an XC-18 clock - I picked up 300 of these 
 many years back when the guy in Southampton only wanted about 10p each for 
 them - hopefully enough for two clocks.


I'm impressed with Pete's results - it's good that the theory is being 
tested and the results quantified as the triggering in the dark issue has 
been around for a while - Kr85, as has been pointed out, was used for 
specifically this reason, but is no longer viable. Let's hope that Pete's 
experiments results are repeatable - do you have the details of the 
emission characteristics of those LEDs?

Cheers

Nick 

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-01 Thread Grahame Marsh


I read it that Pete has two problems and I have one of them - poor 
triggering in the dark which we understand and have fixes for based on 
UV from LEDs (a semiconductor solution) or a pond UV lamp (i.e a valve 
solution).  But Pete has a second problem that I do not see which is 
misfiring under lit conditions.  Pete has issues with his construction 
density perhaps; mine is not very small. I'm at a loss to suggest 
anything; Pete seems to have a triggering sensistivity on the rings far 
higher than mine and the only substantive component change is that Pete 
has changed one of the cathode resistors and I change the common anode 
resistor to account for a higher supply voltage.  Our source of XC18s 
was the same.


I have the XC18 rings running with 180V (Dance) and I have a Z700U ring 
running as well (this runs in complete darkness as each has a primer 
electrode) :D


Grahame


On 01/04/2014 15:02, Nick wrote:


For the last Lord knows how many years I've been intending to
follow in Grahame's footsteps and build an XC-18 clock - I picked
up 300 of these many years back when the guy in Southampton only
wanted about 10p each for them - hopefully enough for two clocks.


I'm impressed with Pete's results - it's good that the theory is being 
tested and the results quantified as the triggering in the dark 
issue has been around for a while - Kr85, as has been pointed out, was 
used for specifically this reason, but is no longer viable. Let's hope 
that Pete's experiments results are repeatable - do you have the 
details of the emission characteristics of those LEDs?


Cheers

Nick


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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-01 Thread Nick
On Tuesday, 1 April 2014 15:17:28 UTC+1, Grahame Marsh wrote:

 I read it that Pete has two problems and I have one of them - poor 
 triggering in the dark which we understand and have fixes for based on UV 
 from LEDs (a semiconductor solution) or a pond UV lamp (i.e a valve 
 solution).  But Pete has a second problem that I do not see which is 
 misfiring under lit conditions.  Pete has issues with his construction 
 density perhaps; mine is not very small.  I'm at a loss to suggest 
 anything; Pete seems to have a triggering sensistivity on the rings far 
 higher than mine and the only substantive component change is that Pete has 
 changed one of the cathode resistors and I change the common anode resistor 
 to account for a higher supply voltage.  Our source of XC18s was the same.

 I have the XC18 rings running with 180V (Dance) and I have a Z700U ring 
 running as well (this runs in complete darkness as each has a primer 
 electrode) :D


Indeed - we all seem to be using the same source of XC-18s (why is he the 
only person with them in bulk?) - I have a box of Z700Us, so will give 
those a go as well - MTX-90s are also an option - they look a promising 
alternative too...

Nick 

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-01 Thread petehand
My tubes also came from the guy in Southampton, though I've forgotten his 
name. My UV LEDs, on the other hand, came from Best Buy in Hong Kong, via 
Ebay, for $28 a hundred, and I have no part number or other documentation. 
Today a quick search for UV LED on Ebay returns this as the first result -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-100PCS-5mm-Megabright-Ultra-Violet-LED-UV-Lamp-2-500mcd-BESTBUY-/290726116420?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item43b0a07c44
Unbelievably they are now only $6 a hundred, with shipping included, which 
means after taking off the cost of shipping they're more like 2 cents each. 
You might suspect for that price they're factory rejects, and you might be 
right, since about one in 4 of my lot was either dead out of the bag or 
failed after a minute's use, but who the heck cares when they're cheaper 
than their own series resistor.



On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 7:02:12 AM UTC-7, Nick wrote:

 For the last Lord knows how many years I've been intending to follow in 
 Grahame's footsteps and build an XC-18 clock - I picked up 300 of these 
 many years back when the guy in Southampton only wanted about 10p each for 
 them - hopefully enough for two clocks.


 I'm impressed with Pete's results - it's good that the theory is being 
 tested and the results quantified as the triggering in the dark issue has 
 been around for a while - Kr85, as has been pointed out, was used for 
 specifically this reason, but is no longer viable. Let's hope that Pete's 
 experiments results are repeatable - do you have the details of the 
 emission characteristics of those LEDs?

 Cheers

 Nick 


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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-04-01 Thread Tidak Ada
There is an other source of UV-LED's. Not as cheap as on eBay, but they can
serve shorter wavelengths (until 245nm as I remember). [
http://www.roithner-laser.com/ ]  They will ship also small quantities.
 
400nmis actually no UV, but violet. 380 -37 nm should be les visible,
because of the peak wavelength is really UV.
 
eric
 
 

  _  

From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of petehand
Sent: dinsdag 1 april 2014 20:22
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Cc: grahame.ma...@googlemail.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited


My tubes also came from the guy in Southampton, though I've forgotten his
name. My UV LEDs, on the other hand, came from Best Buy in Hong Kong, via
Ebay, for $28 a hundred, and I have no part number or other documentation.
Today a quick search for UV LED on Ebay returns this as the first result -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-100PCS-5mm-Megabright-Ultra-Violet-LED-UV-Lamp-2
-500mcd-BESTBUY-/290726116420?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-100PCS-5mm-Megabright-Ultra-Violet-LED-UV-Lamp-
2-500mcd-BESTBUY-/290726116420?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item43b0a07c44
hash=item43b0a07c44
Unbelievably they are now only $6 a hundred, with shipping included, which
means after taking off the cost of shipping they're more like 2 cents each.
You might suspect for that price they're factory rejects, and you might be
right, since about one in 4 of my lot was either dead out of the bag or
failed after a minute's use, but who the heck cares when they're cheaper
than their own series resistor.



On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 7:02:12 AM UTC-7, Nick wrote: 

For the last Lord knows how many years I've been intending to follow in
Grahame's footsteps and build an XC-18 clock - I picked up 300 of these many
years back when the guy in Southampton only wanted about 10p each for them -
hopefully enough for two clocks.


I'm impressed with Pete's results - it's good that the theory is being
tested and the results quantified as the triggering in the dark issue has
been around for a while - Kr85, as has been pointed out, was used for
specifically this reason, but is no longer viable. Let's hope that Pete's
experiments results are repeatable - do you have the details of the emission
characteristics of those LEDs?

Cheers

Nick 

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-03-31 Thread Grahame Marsh


I fully appreciate not wanting to change over 100 resistors! I can only 
say that I have not had the ring failures under lit conditions that you 
have.  Under normal day/night running the clock would go for 3 or 4 days 
before failing overnight.  The normal failure would be a ring would have 
two adjacent trigger tubes fired.  Earlier (faster) rings would still be 
counting.


At the moment I have the clock running with the Dance values of 180V 
supply voltage, 22k common anode resistor and 27k/56k cathode 
resistors.  The only difference I found was initially no tube fired on 
switch on (I am not using a XC24 or two XC18s in parallel for the ring 
starter) and I had to swing the anode voltage upto about 210V when one 
tube would fire in each ring.  I could then reduce the voltage (I'm 
using a Heathkit IP-17 PSU BTW) back down to 180V and the rings would 
operate normally (and fail overnight as normal).  I'm not sure what this 
all means but I remembered you had far more science in your approach to 
my more arbitrary suck and see.  I wonder if the lack of radioactivity 
in the tubes now means their characteristics are too different?  But for 
now my aim is to replace the simple PSU with a stabilised 180V all-valve 
PSU to then use the Dance ring resistor values. Something like this maybe



And then use the UV lamp in a more permanent manner and probably on a 
time or photocell switch.


Cheers Grahame



On 30/03/2014 05:21, petehand wrote:


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WtBxEUgqQjA/UzeVFdAZHPI/AHs/8MBYXpXChKU/s1600/original.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VEHJNK7a-Lc/UzeVKvOwMhI/AH0/uEh_zcaOmiY/s1600/modified.jpg

I watched it today and saw it come from an hour behind to three hours 
ahead in the space of less than two actual hours, and I found the 
culprit - it's the 50 minute tube. It counts 58, 59, 00, 01, 02, and 
then somewhere in the middle of the ought-minutes the 50 tube strikes 
again. But, not every time.


Tidak, I will try reducing the LED current further, since it's easy, 
but it's already down at 1mA. The efficiency of modern LEDs amazes me. 
I have sleeved the worst offending tubes, but only up to the top of 
the anode ring - maybe it needs more. People can see the tubes in 
action and I don't want the sleeves to be noticeable.


Grahame, you are right, I did change the resistor values. For those 
following after, originally the cathode had a 27k resistor on top of a 
56k resistor, with a 56k anode resistor. I changed all the 27k cathode 
resistors from 27k to 56k, and changed the anode resistor from 56k to 
27k. See diagrams above - top is original, second is modified. What 
this did was increase the amplitude of the carry pulse from 21V, which 
was right on the margin, to 35V, without altering the tube current. 
All the stages that previously stuck then worked as intended, except 
in the dark.


I'm not about to change it back to see if it now works with the 
original values, as that means changing more than 100 resistors and 
scrupulously cleaning the PCB afterward, since a little bit of 
contamination can cause it to stick. But I may increase the anode 
resistors since there are only a few and they're at the ends of the 
rows. What this will do is lower the pre-trigger bias applied to the 
next stage. It's nominally 56V at the moment, which was marginal with 
the 21V trigger pulse, but with the 35V pulse I can afford to drop it 
somewhat. At 43k the bias would be 52V. From the XC18 data sheet, the 
must-trigger voltage is 62 to 74 volts. Some tubes apparently don't 
make it. But with the 35V pulse, they would still get over 85V on the 
trigger.


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inline: aeddhjec.png

[neonixie-l] Re: Trigger clock revisited

2014-03-29 Thread petehand


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WtBxEUgqQjA/UzeVFdAZHPI/AHs/8MBYXpXChKU/s1600/original.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VEHJNK7a-Lc/UzeVKvOwMhI/AH0/uEh_zcaOmiY/s1600/modified.jpg
I watched it today and saw it come from an hour behind to three hours ahead 
in the space of less than two actual hours, and I found the culprit - it's 
the 50 minute tube. It counts 58, 59, 00, 01, 02, and then somewhere in the 
middle of the ought-minutes the 50 tube strikes again. But, not every time.

Tidak, I will try reducing the LED current further, since it's easy, but 
it's already down at 1mA. The efficiency of modern LEDs amazes me. I have 
sleeved the worst offending tubes, but only up to the top of the anode ring 
- maybe it needs more. People can see the tubes in action and I don't want 
the sleeves to be noticeable.

Grahame, you are right, I did change the resistor values. For those 
following after, originally the cathode had a 27k resistor on top of a 56k 
resistor, with a 56k anode resistor. I changed all the 27k cathode 
resistors from 27k to 56k, and changed the anode resistor from 56k to 27k. 
See diagrams above - top is original, second is modified. What this did was 
increase the amplitude of the carry pulse from 21V, which was right on the 
margin, to 35V, without altering the tube current. All the stages that 
previously stuck then worked as intended, except in the dark. 

I'm not about to change it back to see if it now works with the original 
values, as that means changing more than 100 resistors and scrupulously 
cleaning the PCB afterward, since a little bit of contamination can cause 
it to stick. But I may increase the anode resistors since there are only a 
few and they're at the ends of the rows. What this will do is lower the 
pre-trigger bias applied to the next stage. It's nominally 56V at the 
moment, which was marginal with the 21V trigger pulse, but with the 35V 
pulse I can afford to drop it somewhat. At 43k the bias would be 52V. From 
the XC18 data sheet, the must-trigger voltage is 62 to 74 volts. Some tubes 
apparently don't make it. But with the 35V pulse, they would still get over 
85V on the trigger.

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