Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[James O'Gorman]

Good idea to try and tighten the bolt just to break it free. The clamping force 
of the bolt isn't why this one is stuck - it is the corrosion between the 
threads. That is why heat works - it expands the bolt / threads just enough to 
overcome the corrosion. 

> On Sep 22, 2016, at 14:47, Lar Lar  wrote:
> 
> All good ideas to try so far.  Have you tried using the impact wrench to 
> tighten the bolt for just a few impacts, then try loosening it, maybe that 
> will break the corrosion bond.  Also do you know what the ft/lbs of your 
> impact tool is?  Mine is an electric one rated at 220 ft/lbs and it would not 
> take off the wheel nuts off on my car (thanks dealership, lol) but when taken 
> off by a garage to have the wheels balanced and put back on at the proper 
> torque it was fine. 
> We're all pulling for ya!
> 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[Jared Clifton]

That's a good idea as well. You're probably right about the torque on the
impact tool. It's just a little Milwaukee M18, so I think it probably has
less than 200 ft/lbs.

I think I could get this thing off with just the breaker bar, if I could
find a socket that wouldn't slip on it. I was thinking about trying the
Craftsman Extreme Grip sockets or one of those Go2 Socket adjustable bolts.
I'm not sure if the Craftsman Extreme Grip sockets would be any better than
their Bolt Off ones, which didn't do a damned thing.

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 12:47 PM, Lar Lar  wrote:

> All good ideas to try so far.  Have you tried using the impact wrench to
> tighten the bolt for just a few impacts, then try loosening it, maybe that
> will break the corrosion bond.  Also do you know what the ft/lbs of your
> impact tool is?  Mine is an electric one rated at 220 ft/lbs and it would
> not take off the wheel nuts off on my car (thanks dealership, lol) but when
> taken off by a garage to have the wheels balanced and put back on at the
> proper torque it was fine.
> We're all pulling for ya!
>
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[Lar Lar]

All good ideas to try so far.  Have you tried using the impact wrench to 
tighten the bolt for just a few impacts, then try loosening it, maybe that 
will break the corrosion bond.  Also do you know what the ft/lbs of your 
impact tool is?  Mine is an electric one rated at 220 ft/lbs and it would 
not take off the wheel nuts off on my car (thanks dealership, lol) but when 
taken off by a garage to have the wheels balanced and put back on at the 
proper torque it was fine. 
We're all pulling for ya!


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch

[Kyle Munz]

I had the wiring diagram and a bit of wire. The switch just closes two
circuits so all I needed were two small bits of wire. One runs the lights
and everything and the other powers the ignition.


-Kyle

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 1:21 PM, jrhoyt0895  wrote:

> Here in sunny Vero Beach, Florida, it's pretty flat, hot, and humid too.
> Having said that, you must have been able to hotwire it pretty quickly.  I
> just can't imagine a scenario where hotwiring it would be faster or easier
> than push-starting it, but things are pretty different here.  There are
> lots of wide open spaces where I can get my bike rolling fast enough
> without putting myself in danger, and I've never hotwired anything in my
> life.
>
> On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 2:09:01 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>
>> Jrhoyt,
>> I've push started my bike before when I had a weak battery. I try to
>> avoid it because Houston is flat, hot, and full of traffic. So no hill to
>> push down to assist, pushing a 400lb bike fast enough to start on a 95F day
>> with 100% humidity gets old pretty quick, and there are so many cars that
>> it's hard to find a space to perform such a maneuver without getting ran
>> over, even in a parking lot. Not to mention no matter how awesome your bike
>> is, nobody looks cool push starting one ;)
>>
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 12:06 PM, Richard Potter 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> If you disassemble the watch out for little springs and balls that may
>>> go flying
>>>
>>> I tried a service kit for a Goldwing on my 700 nothing changed over but
>>> it was only $20.0
>>>
>>> So no big lose
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegrou
>>> ps.com] *On Behalf Of *jrhoyt0895
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, September 22, 2016 9:56 AM
>>> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm curious, why did you hotwire the switch instead of push-starting the
>>> motorcycle?  When my ignition switch went bad, I avoided being stranded by
>>> getting the bike moving, putting it in first gear, and releasing the
>>> clutch.  Sometimes it didn't work on the first try, but it was definitely
>>> easier than hotwiring the bike.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 3:22:05 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>>
>>> I took pics when I cleaned and repaired the ignition switch on my 700S,
>>> the same procedure should work for your 650. Another touch piece to test on
>>> the 650 is where the harness plugs into the back of the fuse block. Make
>>> sure those are cleaned and plugged in snugly.
>>>
>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=600
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Jared Clifton 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650SC. I believe I am having some issues with
>>> the ignition switch. Occasionally, the tail lights go out while riding. I
>>> figured out that if I jiggle the key in the switch a bit, they come back
>>> on. However, more recently when I tried that, the bike shut down
>>> completely. So, I am thinking that the ignition switch is about to go. I've
>>> been searching for a replacement, and nothing I can find seems to fit my
>>> particular model. Found ones for '82 Nighthawks, and ones for 750s, but
>>> nothing for the '83 650SC. Anyone have any advice?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Jared
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>> an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch

[jrhoyt0895]

Here in sunny Vero Beach, Florida, it's pretty flat, hot, and humid too. 
 Having said that, you must have been able to hotwire it pretty quickly.  I 
just can't imagine a scenario where hotwiring it would be faster or easier 
than push-starting it, but things are pretty different here.  There are 
lots of wide open spaces where I can get my bike rolling fast enough 
without putting myself in danger, and I've never hotwired anything in my 
life.

On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 2:09:01 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> Jrhoyt, 
> I've push started my bike before when I had a weak battery. I try to avoid 
> it because Houston is flat, hot, and full of traffic. So no hill to push 
> down to assist, pushing a 400lb bike fast enough to start on a 95F day with 
> 100% humidity gets old pretty quick, and there are so many cars that it's 
> hard to find a space to perform such a maneuver without getting ran over, 
> even in a parking lot. Not to mention no matter how awesome your bike is, 
> nobody looks cool push starting one ;)
>
>
> -Kyle 
>
> On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 12:06 PM, Richard Potter  > wrote:
>
>> If you disassemble the watch out for little springs and balls that may go 
>> flying
>>
>> I tried a service kit for a Goldwing on my 700 nothing changed over but 
>> it was only $20.0
>>
>> So no big lose 
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From:* nighthaw...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
>> nighthaw...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *jrhoyt0895
>> *Sent:* Thursday, September 22, 2016 9:56 AM
>> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch
>>
>>  
>>
>> I'm curious, why did you hotwire the switch instead of push-starting the 
>> motorcycle?  When my ignition switch went bad, I avoided being stranded by 
>> getting the bike moving, putting it in first gear, and releasing the 
>> clutch.  Sometimes it didn't work on the first try, but it was definitely 
>> easier than hotwiring the bike.
>>
>> On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 3:22:05 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>
>> I took pics when I cleaned and repaired the ignition switch on my 700S, 
>> the same procedure should work for your 650. Another touch piece to test on 
>> the 650 is where the harness plugs into the back of the fuse block. Make 
>> sure those are cleaned and plugged in snugly. 
>>
>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=600
>>
>>
>>
>> -Kyle 
>>
>>  
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Jared Clifton  
>> wrote:
>>
>> I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650SC. I believe I am having some issues with the 
>> ignition switch. Occasionally, the tail lights go out while riding. I 
>> figured out that if I jiggle the key in the switch a bit, they come back 
>> on. However, more recently when I tried that, the bike shut down 
>> completely. So, I am thinking that the ignition switch is about to go. I've 
>> been searching for a replacement, and nothing I can find seems to fit my 
>> particular model. Found ones for '82 Nighthawks, and ones for 750s, but 
>> nothing for the '83 650SC. Anyone have any advice?
>>
>>  
>>
>> -Jared
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
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>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>>  
>>
>> -- 
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>> .
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
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>>
>> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO 
>> WHICH IT IS ADDRESSED AND MAY CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS PRIVILEGED, 
>> CONFIDENTIAL, AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the 
>> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or 
>> agent responsible for delivering the message to the intended recipient, you 
>> are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or 
>> copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received 
>> this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail 
>> or telephone, and delete the original message immediately. Thank you.
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Stuck bolt

[Kyle Munz]

Or you could take the bike to Australia where everything is upsidedown and
spray the penetrating oil on it there.


-Kyle

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 1:08 PM, Scott S. McKinley 
wrote:

> What about drilling with a small bit into the bolt it’s entire length and
> a little more, injecting fluid via syringe, and then plugging hole.
> Repeating multiple times would allow fluid to penetrate threads from the
> top.
>
> On Sep 22, 2016, at 11:00 AM, jrhoyt0895  wrote:
>
> Although it might be too late for this problem, you might want to consider
> picking up a 3/8' adapter for your 1/2' breaker bar.
>
> On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 1:15:37 PM UTC-4, Jared Clifton wrote:
>>
>> Drilling is going to be my last resort. And, at this point, I don't
>> really see any other alternative.
>>
>> I used a 6-point socket. Actually, three different ones from different
>> sets I had, in case one was rounded. I also bought one of those Craftsman
>> Bolt Extractor kits, which also refused to budge this thing. I let the
>> penetrating oil set for days (used both Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster),
>> applying a bit more each day. I've been working on this for over a week. I
>> tried a 12" breaker bar and an impact driver. My longer breaker bar is for
>> 1/2" sockets, and I don't have a 12mm socket in 1/2 inch.
>>
>> I believe I'm seeing a couple of issues here. The first is that the bolt
>> is upside down, so the penetrating oil has a harder time working its way up
>> to the threads. Secondly, I took a look at the other bolt (that I actually
>> did remove), and there is a significant amount of shaft between where the
>> head is and the threads start. And I can't see any way to get at this bolt
>> from the top, where the threads are.
>>
>> Last night I applied more PB Blaster and let it sit. Then I hit it with a
>> torch for 30 seconds, and let it cool. Then I tried the breaker bar and the
>> impact driver on it. Repeat. It simply will not budge.
>>
>> -Jared
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 9:46:54 AM UTC-7, jrhoyt0895 wrote:
>>>
>>> Have you considered drilling through the bolt, like you would if you had
>>> a screw with a stripped head?
>>>
>>> Consistent with other advice, I think you did what I would have done,
>>> although I might have done it a tad differently:
>>>
>>> -I don't know if you used a 6-point socket or a 12-point socket, a
>>> 6-point socket is the way to go here.
>>> -How long is your breaker bar?  The longer it is, the more leverage you
>>> have, giving you the ability to be a bit more gentle.
>>> -When using a breaker bar, I always try to push down, rather than up or
>>> to the side.
>>> -How long did you let the penetrating oil sit?  When using penetrating
>>> oil, patience can really pay off.
>>>
>>> One last thing: Imagine the bolt is a jar of pickles someone just handed
>>> you while asking, "Can you open this for me?"  You turn the lid and it pops
>>> off with almost no effort, and you say, "You must have loosened it."  In
>>> other words, be gentle, spray some penetrating oil on it, and they walk
>>> away for a while.  Then try gently again later, and repeat until the thing
>>> comes off.
>>>
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch

[Kyle Munz]

Jrhoyt,
I've push started my bike before when I had a weak battery. I try to avoid
it because Houston is flat, hot, and full of traffic. So no hill to push
down to assist, pushing a 400lb bike fast enough to start on a 95F day with
100% humidity gets old pretty quick, and there are so many cars that it's
hard to find a space to perform such a maneuver without getting ran over,
even in a parking lot. Not to mention no matter how awesome your bike is,
nobody looks cool push starting one ;)


-Kyle

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 12:06 PM, Richard Potter 
wrote:

> If you disassemble the watch out for little springs and balls that may go
> flying
>
> I tried a service kit for a Goldwing on my 700 nothing changed over but it
> was only $20.0
>
> So no big lose
>
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthawk_lovers@
> googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *jrhoyt0895
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 22, 2016 9:56 AM
> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch
>
>
>
> I'm curious, why did you hotwire the switch instead of push-starting the
> motorcycle?  When my ignition switch went bad, I avoided being stranded by
> getting the bike moving, putting it in first gear, and releasing the
> clutch.  Sometimes it didn't work on the first try, but it was definitely
> easier than hotwiring the bike.
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 3:22:05 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> I took pics when I cleaned and repaired the ignition switch on my 700S,
> the same procedure should work for your 650. Another touch piece to test on
> the 650 is where the harness plugs into the back of the fuse block. Make
> sure those are cleaned and plugged in snugly.
>
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=600
>
>
>
> -Kyle
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Jared Clifton 
> wrote:
>
> I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650SC. I believe I am having some issues with the
> ignition switch. Occasionally, the tail lights go out while riding. I
> figured out that if I jiggle the key in the switch a bit, they come back
> on. However, more recently when I tried that, the bike shut down
> completely. So, I am thinking that the ignition switch is about to go. I've
> been searching for a replacement, and nothing I can find seems to fit my
> particular model. Found ones for '82 Nighthawks, and ones for 750s, but
> nothing for the '83 650SC. Anyone have any advice?
>
>
>
> -Jared
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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> email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
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> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>
>
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> WHICH IT IS ADDRESSED AND MAY CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS PRIVILEGED,
> CONFIDENTIAL, AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the
> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
> agent responsible for delivering the message to the intended recipient, you
> are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or
> copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received
> this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail
> or telephone, and delete the original message immediately. Thank you.
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[jrhoyt0895]

Although it might be too late for this problem, you might want to consider 
picking up a 3/8' adapter for your 1/2' breaker bar.

On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 1:15:37 PM UTC-4, Jared Clifton wrote:
>
> Drilling is going to be my last resort. And, at this point, I don't really 
> see any other alternative.
>
> I used a 6-point socket. Actually, three different ones from different 
> sets I had, in case one was rounded. I also bought one of those Craftsman 
> Bolt Extractor kits, which also refused to budge this thing. I let the 
> penetrating oil set for days (used both Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster), 
> applying a bit more each day. I've been working on this for over a week. I 
> tried a 12" breaker bar and an impact driver. My longer breaker bar is for 
> 1/2" sockets, and I don't have a 12mm socket in 1/2 inch.
>
> I believe I'm seeing a couple of issues here. The first is that the bolt 
> is upside down, so the penetrating oil has a harder time working its way up 
> to the threads. Secondly, I took a look at the other bolt (that I actually 
> did remove), and there is a significant amount of shaft between where the 
> head is and the threads start. And I can't see any way to get at this bolt 
> from the top, where the threads are.
>
> Last night I applied more PB Blaster and let it sit. Then I hit it with a 
> torch for 30 seconds, and let it cool. Then I tried the breaker bar and the 
> impact driver on it. Repeat. It simply will not budge.
>
> -Jared
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 9:46:54 AM UTC-7, jrhoyt0895 wrote:
>>
>> Have you considered drilling through the bolt, like you would if you had 
>> a screw with a stripped head?
>>
>> Consistent with other advice, I think you did what I would have done, 
>> although I might have done it a tad differently:
>>
>> -I don't know if you used a 6-point socket or a 12-point socket, a 
>> 6-point socket is the way to go here.
>> -How long is your breaker bar?  The longer it is, the more leverage you 
>> have, giving you the ability to be a bit more gentle.
>> -When using a breaker bar, I always try to push down, rather than up or 
>> to the side.
>> -How long did you let the penetrating oil sit?  When using penetrating 
>> oil, patience can really pay off.
>>
>> One last thing: Imagine the bolt is a jar of pickles someone just handed 
>> you while asking, "Can you open this for me?"  You turn the lid and it pops 
>> off with almost no effort, and you say, "You must have loosened it."  In 
>> other words, be gentle, spray some penetrating oil on it, and they walk 
>> away for a while.  Then try gently again later, and repeat until the thing 
>> comes off.
>>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[James O'Gorman]

Try to use impact while it is still hot.

> On Sep 22, 2016, at 12:15, Jared Clifton  wrote:
> 
> Drilling is going to be my last resort. And, at this point, I don't really 
> see any other alternative.
> 
> I used a 6-point socket. Actually, three different ones from different sets I 
> had, in case one was rounded. I also bought one of those Craftsman Bolt 
> Extractor kits, which also refused to budge this thing. I let the penetrating 
> oil set for days (used both Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster), applying a bit 
> more each day. I've been working on this for over a week. I tried a 12" 
> breaker bar and an impact driver. My longer breaker bar is for 1/2" sockets, 
> and I don't have a 12mm socket in 1/2 inch.
> 
> I believe I'm seeing a couple of issues here. The first is that the bolt is 
> upside down, so the penetrating oil has a harder time working its way up to 
> the threads. Secondly, I took a look at the other bolt (that I actually did 
> remove), and there is a significant amount of shaft between where the head is 
> and the threads start. And I can't see any way to get at this bolt from the 
> top, where the threads are.
> 
> Last night I applied more PB Blaster and let it sit. Then I hit it with a 
> torch for 30 seconds, and let it cool. Then I tried the breaker bar and the 
> impact driver on it. Repeat. It simply will not budge.
> 
> -Jared
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 9:46:54 AM UTC-7, jrhoyt0895 wrote:
>> Have you considered drilling through the bolt, like you would if you had a 
>> screw with a stripped head?
>> 
>> Consistent with other advice, I think you did what I would have done, 
>> although I might have done it a tad differently:
>> 
>> -I don't know if you used a 6-point socket or a 12-point socket, a 6-point 
>> socket is the way to go here.
>> -How long is your breaker bar?  The longer it is, the more leverage you 
>> have, giving you the ability to be a bit more gentle.
>> -When using a breaker bar, I always try to push down, rather than up or to 
>> the side.
>> -How long did you let the penetrating oil sit?  When using penetrating oil, 
>> patience can really pay off.
>> 
>> One last thing: Imagine the bolt is a jar of pickles someone just handed you 
>> while asking, "Can you open this for me?"  You turn the lid and it pops off 
>> with almost no effort, and you say, "You must have loosened it."  In other 
>> words, be gentle, spray some penetrating oil on it, and they walk away for a 
>> while.  Then try gently again later, and repeat until the thing comes off.
> 
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[Jared Clifton]

Drilling is going to be my last resort. And, at this point, I don't really 
see any other alternative.

I used a 6-point socket. Actually, three different ones from different sets 
I had, in case one was rounded. I also bought one of those Craftsman Bolt 
Extractor kits, which also refused to budge this thing. I let the 
penetrating oil set for days (used both Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster), 
applying a bit more each day. I've been working on this for over a week. I 
tried a 12" breaker bar and an impact driver. My longer breaker bar is for 
1/2" sockets, and I don't have a 12mm socket in 1/2 inch.

I believe I'm seeing a couple of issues here. The first is that the bolt is 
upside down, so the penetrating oil has a harder time working its way up to 
the threads. Secondly, I took a look at the other bolt (that I actually did 
remove), and there is a significant amount of shaft between where the head 
is and the threads start. And I can't see any way to get at this bolt from 
the top, where the threads are.

Last night I applied more PB Blaster and let it sit. Then I hit it with a 
torch for 30 seconds, and let it cool. Then I tried the breaker bar and the 
impact driver on it. Repeat. It simply will not budge.

-Jared



On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 9:46:54 AM UTC-7, jrhoyt0895 wrote:
>
> Have you considered drilling through the bolt, like you would if you had a 
> screw with a stripped head?
>
> Consistent with other advice, I think you did what I would have done, 
> although I might have done it a tad differently:
>
> -I don't know if you used a 6-point socket or a 12-point socket, a 6-point 
> socket is the way to go here.
> -How long is your breaker bar?  The longer it is, the more leverage you 
> have, giving you the ability to be a bit more gentle.
> -When using a breaker bar, I always try to push down, rather than up or to 
> the side.
> -How long did you let the penetrating oil sit?  When using penetrating 
> oil, patience can really pay off.
>
> One last thing: Imagine the bolt is a jar of pickles someone just handed 
> you while asking, "Can you open this for me?"  You turn the lid and it pops 
> off with almost no effort, and you say, "You must have loosened it."  In 
> other words, be gentle, spray some penetrating oil on it, and they walk 
> away for a while.  Then try gently again later, and repeat until the thing 
> comes off.
>

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch

[Richard Potter]

If you disassemble the watch out for little springs and balls that may go flying
I tried a service kit for a Goldwing on my 700 nothing changed over but it was 
only $20.0
So no big lose

From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of jrhoyt0895
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2016 9:56 AM
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch

I'm curious, why did you hotwire the switch instead of push-starting the 
motorcycle?  When my ignition switch went bad, I avoided being stranded by 
getting the bike moving, putting it in first gear, and releasing the clutch.  
Sometimes it didn't work on the first try, but it was definitely easier than 
hotwiring the bike.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 3:22:05 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
I took pics when I cleaned and repaired the ignition switch on my 700S, the 
same procedure should work for your 650. Another touch piece to test on the 650 
is where the harness plugs into the back of the fuse block. Make sure those are 
cleaned and plugged in snugly.

http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=600


-Kyle

On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Jared Clifton 
 wrote:
I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650SC. I believe I am having some issues with the 
ignition switch. Occasionally, the tail lights go out while riding. I figured 
out that if I jiggle the key in the switch a bit, they come back on. However, 
more recently when I tried that, the bike shut down completely. So, I am 
thinking that the ignition switch is about to go. I've been searching for a 
replacement, and nothing I can find seems to fit my particular model. Found 
ones for '82 Nighthawks, and ones for 750s, but nothing for the '83 650SC. 
Anyone have any advice?

-Jared
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Ignition switch

[jrhoyt0895]

I'm curious, why did you hotwire the switch instead of push-starting the 
motorcycle?  When my ignition switch went bad, I avoided being stranded by 
getting the bike moving, putting it in first gear, and releasing the 
clutch.  Sometimes it didn't work on the first try, but it was definitely 
easier than hotwiring the bike.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 3:22:05 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> I took pics when I cleaned and repaired the ignition switch on my 700S, 
> the same procedure should work for your 650. Another touch piece to test on 
> the 650 is where the harness plugs into the back of the fuse block. Make 
> sure those are cleaned and plugged in snugly. 
>
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=600
>
>
> -Kyle 
>
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 11:42 AM, Jared Clifton  > wrote:
>
>> I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650SC. I believe I am having some issues with the 
>> ignition switch. Occasionally, the tail lights go out while riding. I 
>> figured out that if I jiggle the key in the switch a bit, they come back 
>> on. However, more recently when I tried that, the bike shut down 
>> completely. So, I am thinking that the ignition switch is about to go. I've 
>> been searching for a replacement, and nothing I can find seems to fit my 
>> particular model. Found ones for '82 Nighthawks, and ones for 750s, but 
>> nothing for the '83 650SC. Anyone have any advice?
>>
>> -Jared
>>
>> -- 
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ignition switch

[jrhoyt0895]

I'm no expert, but an ignition switch on a motorcycle is usually simple 
enough for amateurs like us to rebuild.  Take it apart, clean all the parts 
(especially the contacts), maybe bend the contacts so they do their job 
better, lubricate the moving parts, and reassemble it.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Stuck bolt

[jrhoyt0895]

Have you considered drilling through the bolt, like you would if you had a 
screw with a stripped head?

Consistent with other advice, I think you did what I would have done, 
although I might have done it a tad differently:

-I don't know if you used a 6-point socket or a 12-point socket, a 6-point 
socket is the way to go here.
-How long is your breaker bar?  The longer it is, the more leverage you 
have, giving you the ability to be a bit more gentle.
-When using a breaker bar, I always try to push down, rather than up or to 
the side.
-How long did you let the penetrating oil sit?  When using penetrating oil, 
patience can really pay off.

One last thing: Imagine the bolt is a jar of pickles someone just handed 
you while asking, "Can you open this for me?"  You turn the lid and it pops 
off with almost no effort, and you say, "You must have loosened it."  In 
other words, be gentle, spray some penetrating oil on it, and they walk 
away for a while.  Then try gently again later, and repeat until the thing 
comes off.

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