Re: K-7 - check ricehigh blog, folks... photos and specs...

2009-05-19 Thread Cory Papenfuss

So - what are the perceived strengths  weaknesses?

Strengths, as I see them:
o  Metal body shell
o  4-channel sensor readout (faster; lower noise)
o  High-ISO performance  (I've only got a K10D ..)
o  100% viewfinder (0.92X)
o  1/8000 top speed
o  5+ fps, 14-frame buffer (40 frame for JPEG)
o  More dedicated controls
o  3 640x480 rear screen
o  Multi-Pattern metering (assuming the firmware is good)
o  Faster, more accurate AF (ditto)
o  Battery Grip can accept AAs.

Weakness:
o  Only 1/180 flash sync?  The Pz-1p managed 1/250.
o  Doesn't (apparently) share batteries with the K10D

Don't care:
o  Live View
o  Low-temperature operation (how do the batteries do?)
o  Movie mode (only 720p, though)
o  In-camera image manipulation (including HDR)




	I hate to say it, but *YAWN*...  Just about every improvement to 
this camera over the K20D that I can see is due to the 720p HD video 
capability.  Faster sensor readout, larger and higher resolution rear 
screen, faster AF, better (possibly dual?) batteries, etc.  I think still 
cameras and video cameras have requirements different enough to have 
different form factors, so it's a square-peg trying to fit into a round 
hole.


	... that said it'll probalby sell like hotcakes (seeing as how I 
don't really give a sh*t).  To each their own, but to me the best thing 
about this camera is that it will cause the K20D prices (with roughly 
identical IQ and operating qualities for the way I shoot) to drop.


-Cory

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Lens repair advice sought

2009-05-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss
	Hey guys.  I've got a DA* 16-50mm that's got a loose front element 
where the hood snaps on.  I suspect something in one of the helical screws 
might be worn or broken.  Any thoughts on how much a repair like that 
might cost and where to send it?


Thanks
-Cory

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Re: Lens repair advice sought

2009-05-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss

On Fri, 15 May 2009, Paul Stenquist wrote:

Are you sure the front element is loose rather than just the hood retainer 
ring? The hood ring of my DA*16-50 is a bit loose, but the front element is 
solid. Look carefully.

Paul


	I've removed the hood, and the final element is still a bit loose. 
In fact, occasionally, it will click when transitioning somewhere 
between 20 to 28mm.  Is this a $50 repair, or a $500 repair?


-Cory

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Re: Trading resolution for depth of field

2009-04-07 Thread Cory Papenfuss

On Tue, 7 Apr 2009, Paul Stenquist wrote:

This is a simple issue. Bob is speaking of perceived depth of filed on a 
viewed print. JCO is speaking of critical depth of field in respect to the 
ability of a given lens to resolve detail. Both are correct, but each is 
discussing an entirely different matter.


Let it go.


... but as I'm sure we will discover, only one is correct.  ;-)

-Cory

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Re: histograms

2009-02-27 Thread Cory Papenfuss

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009, Ken Waller wrote:


Better still if you look at the individual R G B channels !

Kenneth Waller
http://www.tinyurl.com/272u2f

	... and for some shots, a log-histogram.  Think full moon taking 
up 10% of a frame's area. no idea if the moon's exposed correctly, 
completely blown out, or underexposed.


-Cory

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Re: Amusing square-format dSLR rumor

2009-02-19 Thread Cory Papenfuss

 JC O'Connell


As you wish, JC.



AS YOU WISSHHH!

:)

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Re: Amusing square-format dSLR rumor

2009-02-19 Thread Cory Papenfuss

Oh, c'mon now. Next thing you'll be telling us that a square is a
rhombus, or a trapezoid.

	I (somewhat) hate adding to this pedantism, but a square can be 
accurately called


- A rectangle with equal-length sides
- A rhombus with 90 degree corners
- A trapezoid that has (the required) two parallel sides, as well as two 
more (optionally) parallel sides.[1]


[1] Possibly not, as sometimes, the definition of a trapezoid requires 
*exactly* two parallel sides, not *at least* two parallel sides.


	Characteristics being sufficient does not mean necessary nor vice 
versa.


:-)
-Cory

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Re: FF pentax DSLR

2009-02-17 Thread Cory Papenfuss

Pentax has offer camera systems that keep up with
the photo marketplace, not just their own current lens lineups...


Oh, God bugger a moose.



Mmmm Moose...

:)

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RE: *ist DS storage question

2009-01-07 Thread Cory Papenfuss
	I've had some experience with NiMH and a good battery charger with 
my -DS although no Eneloops (yet).  I've had two different batches of 
cheap, no-name batt (Powerizer?), and a couple sets of Energizer.  I've 
got a LaCross BC-900 charger so I can accurately see how they perform and 
charge/discharge them correctly.  Bottom line is that the camera (at least 
the -DS) is *VERY* dependent on battery voltage.  It will crap out and 
refuse to operate once the loaded voltage goes too low... where too low 
is NOT the 1.0Vpc that is typically used to measure cell capacity, and 
loaded is the relatively large current the electronics draw when the 
camera is turned on.


	Look at the second plot in the link you sent.  If the camera says 
any battery less than 1.2V is dead, then no-name will have 800mAH and 
Eneloop 1400mAH.  In fact, if the threshold is anything more than 1.1V, 
the higher (under load) voltage of the Eneloops will be superior to the 
no-name.  Most electric devices crap out WAY before the minimum threshold 
voltage of a dead NiMH cell... the only time you get the rated capacity 
is under testing on the bench, or using devices that don't shut off 
(flashlights, etc).


	Oh, and the continual trickle charge is not necessarily the best 
way to keep batteries in good health.  It can grow metalized whiskers 
within the cell and shows up as voltage depression... effectively reduced 
capacity.


-Cory

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009, JC OConnell wrote:


never mind, I looked it up myself,
as you can see, even sanyo's own
regular nimh batteries have far superior
capacity on a full charge than their
own eneloopes:

http://www.eneloop.info/home/performance-details/capacity.html

So what does this mean, well if you use your
batteries within a couple months of charging
the eneloops will run out of energy quicker
than regular nimh batteries.

the only advantage of using eneloops is if
you charge and then dont use for two months
or more. By then the self discharge of the
regular nimh will have equalized to the the lower
capacity of the eneloops have in the first
place when fully charged.

So, unless you actully wait 2 months to use the
eneloops after charging, they are inferior,
not superior to regular nimh for what a battery
does which is store ususable energy.

JC O'Connell
hifis...@gate.net



-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of
JC OConnell
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 8:45 PM
To: 'Pentax-Discuss Mail List'
Subject: RE: *ist DS storage question


yup, far superior if you value charging but not using your batteries for
months later. BTW, do these eneloops have as much capacity in mAH as
other nimh batteries or not?

JC O'Connell
hifis...@gate.net



-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of
Bruce Walker
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 6:50 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: *ist DS storage question


Brian Walters wrote:

Re rechargeable batteries.  It's been said before here but worth
repeating that Sanyo Eneloops are far superior to most other
rechargeables.


Uh, oh.  Fire in the hole!

:-)

-bmw

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Re: PESO - Lake Louise redux

2008-12-10 Thread Cory Papenfuss
	OK... I finally dug up the slide, and found a method of 
transferring it to the digital realm.  Using a moldy-old Asahi Pentax 
Bellows II slide copier and a yellowed 50/1.4, I got this transfer:


http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp9826_1024x768.jpg
(full-sized 1.4MB here)
http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp9826.jpg

	Again, quality is rather craptacular, but for glacier 
comparison, it might be useful.  It was taken in mid-June, 1986.


	Of course now that I look at them all, I can't see much of a 
difference.  It's barely a glacier anyway, and difficult to discern from 
just the regular snowfields.  Oh well...


-Cory

 On Mon, 8 Dec 2008, ann sanfedele wrote:

Ok I found one slide - not the sharpest for sure, but for examining 
glaciation it should work --


http://annsan.smugmug.com/gallery/4796533_saNpx#433183950_CqCKP-A-LB


I'm going to dig up the Athabasca Glacier pix...  from 1976 and then 1992 
(and they were both in the Spring - wait, no,

maybe I have one from 1989 too, in the fall

anyway... intersting to make comparissons... I'm only showing this fuzzy 
thingy for the sake of the environment


ann


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Re: PESO: My Sorry Lake Louise

2008-12-08 Thread Cory Papenfuss

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008, ann sanfedele wrote:

I was comparing the two for the amount of glaciation left ...  made me think 
I should dig out my 1976 shot  from
the same angle... 
I was there in June of that year, so the comparison for that purpose to 
Jack's is more apt...


But the startling glacier receding shots of mine are comparing 1976 with 1992 
at the Athabasca Glacier at Jasper.

Does anyone have a recent shot of it to share?

ann

I must admit, I was considering digging out my 1986 shot to check 
the same thing.


-Cory

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Re: FS Friday: GPS receiver(s)

2008-08-25 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 22 Aug 2008, Paul Sorenson wrote:

 Depends a lot upon what GPS unit he's relying upon.  I certainly
 wouldn't try it with my Garmin Etrex.  ;}

 OTOH, a friend, to whom I give instrument dual instruction occasionally,
 has an auto-pilot coupled Garmin, certified for vertical guidance,
 installed in his Comanche.  You can let the electronics shoot an
 approach down to 200 ft and it's right on the money.

 -p

That's the difference right there.  A WAAS VNAV-certified GPS has 
a specific approach programmed into it relative to the GPS-derived 
altitude solution.  That's a whole different beast than comparing 
indicated pressure-derived altitude to just general GPS-derived altitude 
while in cruise.

-Cory

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Re: FS Friday: GPS receiver(s)

2008-08-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 That's also the way to set up the pressure altimeter in a GPS receiver.
 Here's a decent article about GPS satellite-based altitude:
 http://gpsinformation.net/main/altitude.htm

 I love the last line: Those who use GPS altitude to aid in landing
 their small plane should have their insurance policies paid up at all
 times.

As a pilot, I've heard lots of other pilots questioning the 
discrepancy between the altimeter and GPS.  It's two main factors... the 
difference between the mathematical model of the earth the GPS uses (not 
spherical) being one, but the non-standard pressure lapse rate with 
altitude.  That's primarily due to non-standard temperature, but can be 
affected by other things such as windshear with winds aloft.  Of course 
the GPS must also support manually entering the current barometric 
altimeter setting or else the resulting barometric reading is crap. (e.g. 
standard day is 29.92 inHg, but good-weather high might be 30.30 inHg)

Pilots deal with this more often then most hikers since they 
often fly higher than most hikers, and also fly through weather systems 
(rather than hikers waiting for weather systems to pass them).

One interesting tidbit that's taught to pilots in Alaska and 
Canada but not in the rest of the US deals with cold-weather compass 
errors.  Consider a pilot beginning a long descent to an airport at low 
elevation, but there's high terrain along the way.  The colder the weather 
is from standard (e.g. arctic conditions) and the higher the terrain is 
above the airport, the more inaccurate the pressure altimeter is relative 
to *true* (i.e. not hitting the rocks) altitude shown on aeronautical 
charts.  Most of the times it's not an issue, but it can be under the 
right circumstances.

-Cory

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Re: PESO: Cool Down

2008-08-04 Thread Cory Papenfuss
Is that high-speed sync flash?  Seems impossible with straight 
flash.

-Cory

On Sat, 2 Aug 2008, Paul Stenquist wrote:

 The light was hot and overhead, but the moment was too good to miss.
 I was able to squash some of the hard light with flash fill:

 http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7628515size=lg

 Paul

 I've tried posting this several times. I hope they don't all show up:-)

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RE: The Big Picture

2008-06-18 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 In which case you would expect white balls.  Black ones would be expected to 
 heat the water up.

I've heard that the additive to many plastics that make them 
UV-stable is black.  A friend of mine just bought a used modular plastic 
dock for their house on the lake.  The friggin' thing is impossible to 
walk on in the sunlight because it get so hot (black for UV reasons).

-Cory

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Re: Tired of Correcting Auto Focus

2008-06-07 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 6 Jun 2008, Gonz wrote:

 Speaking of split screen focusing aids, look at this ebay listing:

 http://tinyurl.com/3goxz7

 They even give you finger condoms!

I've seen the cheaper ones on ebay (finally!), but haven't seen 
the justification for replacing the one I made myself from filing down a 
full-sized screen.  This one has a diagonal split prism though, so I might 
just go for it.  My old P30T had diagonal and always though it was the 
most useful orientation for a split prism (either a H or V line in subject 
will work).

-Cory

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Re: Zenitar 16mm PK

2008-03-04 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Mon, 3 Mar 2008, Charles Robinson wrote:

 On Mar 3, 2008, at 17:06, Timber wrote:

 Charles Robinson wrote:
  Zenitar 16mm

 Could you share your opinion about this lens? I am planning to buy one
 MC Zenitar f2.8 16mm and any comment would be welcomed. The best would
 be if you can link some PEF files with this lens :D


 I have no PEF files with it, sorry.

 I REALLY loved this lens when I used it on film.  I became less-than-
 excited about it on Digital.  I kept reading over and over how many
 people enjoyed it, and I just wasn't feeling the excitement.

 But I decided to try it out more and more often, just to see if I was
 missing something.  After about a year of fiddling around with it, I
 *do* get in the mood to grab it every now and then to capture a tight
 spot.

 Most of the bendy photos on this page are from the Zenitar

  http://charles.robinsontwins.org/photos/2008/kitchen_wall/

 And when I'm in a small space like a two-seat airplane, it's handy for
 self-portraits:

 http://charles.robinsontwins.org/photos/2008/SanFrancisco/pages/page_79.html

 So it's gone from being a lens I LOVE to a lens which is convenient
 from time to time.  I no longer want to get rid of it, like I was
 planning on doing about a year ago.

  -Charles


I got this lens for my -DS after reading all about it online.  I 
agree that it's not quite as exciting as a fisheye with the 1.5x crop. 
It's more like a regular ultra-wide with bad barrel distortion.  Since 
it's the fastest wide I've got however, I tend to use it for that when 
light's low.  Besides, with the panotools, it's not too hard to convert 
from fisheye to rectilinear if you can't handle it for a shot.  It's 
fairly heavy, has a somewhat exposed front element, and has a tendency 
to flare in bad situations.

Since nobody provided a PEF, I've got one available.  This one was 
taken in pretty challenging conditions of flat lighting under a canopy. 
You can see some flare and CA where the bright sky goes through the 
canopy.  I've also included the same image converted to a rectilinear 
projection via panotools.  This was probably taken about f/8.

http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp1714_small.jpg
http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp1714.jpg
http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp1714_rectilinear.jpg
http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp1714.pef.zip

Cheers,
-Cory

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Re: OT: ROTFLMAO

2008-02-27 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Bah...  If there were snakes like that around my place the photo in the
 story would be me holding up a snake with thousands of shotgun pellets
 lodged in it's head.  My family's protection at my home trumps your
 endangered species...
 Now.. lets see if we can find a python recipe online somewhere...

I think they taste like chicken :)

-Cory

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Re: Lunar Eclipse Picture

2008-02-21 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Excellent!  We had clouds for the entire duration of the eclipse.  Of
 course, later on, after it was over, we had clear skies.  Grrr.

Yeah, I was all set up with 400/5.6 + 2x, but throughout the 
totality we were also overcast in totality.  I got a couple minute window 
about halfway back through a hole in the clouds.  All I got was this 
snapshot:

http://computing.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp8603_small.jpg

Barely distinguishable from a normal moon.  :(

-Cory

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Re: Meal preparation under way...

2008-01-31 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Must have:

 Full K-Mount support.

Didn't think you gave a sh*t about this, Will.


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Re: PESO: Ahhhh...

2008-01-28 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Beer is on my mind this weekend.  A friend and I
 conducted a beer tasting last evening (a church
 auction item), focusing on British beers.  Alas all of
 them were bottled, except for my homebrew.

 Today, I cooked up a new batch of bitter, and it is
 now in the fermenter.


 Nothing like a good homebrew.  I brewed up a batch of American 
imperial toasted oatmeal stout this weekend.  It had just shy of 19 pounds 
of grain for a 5-gallon batch... should be sweet and finish at about 11% 
ABV.

Cheers,
-Cory


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Re: Pentax presentation - K20D feature (serious comment this time)

2008-01-26 Thread Cory Papenfuss
I'd like a camera that uses UTC correctly.  Just like a computer 
(runnsing and OS other than Microsoft), I should be able to set the clock 
to UTC and specify which timezone I'm in.  Setting hardware clocks to 
timezone-specific values is stupid for anything other than non-mobile 
objects.  Between travelling and daylight-savings time, it's ugly to keep 
track in post-processing.

-Cory

  On Fri, 25 Jan 2008, Stan Halpin wrote:

 Commenting on my own comment... (Is that like mumbling to yourself?)
 Anyway, now that we have the flexible file naming, what I want next
 is the ability to write to the Location field in the IPTC file.

 stan

 On Jan 24, 2008, at 11:48 PM, Stan Halpin wrote:

 Haven't seen anybody comment yet on the one feature many of us have
 asked for - in camera customizable file names. If I am on vacation,
 moving from small town to small town around Lago di Garda, I know
 that I will just have time to dump the files onto a portable drive
 that evening and it will be a real pain to reconstruct where I was
 when, I would probably use that feature often. It wasn'tclear ow
 flexible the feature was, but they did show a full a-z virtual
 keyboard...

 stan

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Re: Popular Photography posts K20D first looks

2008-01-24 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Thu, 24 Jan 2008, Thibouille wrote:

 They advertise 230.000 but it seems Pentax doesn't count the same way
 as others so we'll have to wait for reviews or first hand experience
 to know exactly.


One of the links said 230k, but said that each location had 
individual RGB pixels.  Kinda like Foveon in reverse.  Probably necessary 
to get the wide viewing angle, but I'm sure it makes it looks really 
high-res.

-Cory


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Re: Popular Photography posts K20D first looks

2008-01-24 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 I bet there's no aperture simulator though.


Very impressive camera.  If it had that, I'd pay to upgrade 
tomorrow.  Without it, I'll still have to think about it.


-Cory


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Re: OT: The modern world confuses me

2007-12-31 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 As a sometimes Linux user, I agree with Cory re The Gimp.

 Cinepaint does do 16 bit editing but it has that Gimp interface :-(

That *OLD* Gimp interface.  It's got GTK-1.x interface as opposed 
to the Gimpe 2.x stuff with the newer.  Less irritating to use and less 
clunky.

-Cory

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Re: OT: The modern world confuses me

2007-12-31 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Oh, it is possible, but I seriously doubt you were using anything
 particularly close to a commonly-available X Server. Probably running
 Matrox cards with proprietary X Servers (which would be necessary to
 get colour management in X) or possibly a commercial X distribution in
 its entirety. I'm primarily speaking about any base Linux distro
 running stock X servers.

Maybe so on the proprietary X-server, but regular xorg and xfree86 
support color management.  About the only thing the OS needs to do is load 
the VGCT gamma ramp... there are utilities that will do that in X... 
*with* multiple heads.  The other bits of color management are simply 
providing a means to reference a specific one at the application level.  X 
doesn't support that, but the applications that support color management 
(like Cinepaint) do.  With that, you can soft-proof for you printer on 
your calibrated monitor, etc.  It's tedious, but not a whole lot moreso 
than just the need to understand profiles and what they do (and *don't*) 
mean.

-Cory

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Re: Christmas Spirit

2007-12-31 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 little. Cold single malt is a better experience than room temperature
 scotch. IMMHO...

Heathen.  :)

-Cory
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Re: Rechargeable batteries and chargers

2007-12-31 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 I find the Energizer rechargeables to be terrible at holding a charge.
 (I've tried some Duracells, too, but they appear to be even worse).
 They're so bad that I too switched to using Energizer Lithiums, but
 that brings its own set of problems.  In my *ist D the initial drain
 when I first switch the camera on after three days of non-use is so
 high that the battery voltage drops, causing the *ist D to register
 'half power'.  I also get that indication (and, in some cases, the
 'low battery' indicator) quite often during shooting sessions.
 I rarely had those kind of problems when I was using my old Ray-O-Vac
 rechargeables (although in those days I had the battery grip mounted,
 with batteries in it and in the camera), so when about ten days ago
 I saw 2500mAh Ray-O-Vacs in the local hardware store I picked up a
 set to try them out.  So far they have been problem free, so I may
 well pick up another pack or two and switch back to rechargeables.

You must have a bad cell in your set of Energizers.  I've been 
using a set of 2500's very happily now... a few hundred shots from them a 
month after charging them.  I've got a LaCrosse BC-900 charger so I can 
cycle them and see how much they *actually* provide.  Highly recommended. 
One set of 4 batteries I bought had 3 good, and 1 that would only get up 
to about 1/2 the capacity of others... even after a number of 
charge/discharge cycles to bring them up.  Must be bad quality control on 
that one.

-Cory

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Re: OT: The modern world confuses me

2007-12-28 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Even if you start with an 8 bit image, it's best to make it 16 bit
 before making any adjustments--that way, you're not clamping values at
 each step. The original point was, there's no way to do this in Gimp.

 There is software that does do it on linux now.  I would expect gimp to have 
 it soon.

As an avid Linux user, I can say that Gimp blows chunks. 
Completely useless for any serious photographic editing.  No color more 
than 8 bits, and no color management.

I recently bought an old DTP-92 which works with Argyll color 
management under linux.  Hopefully I'll be able to run a full calibrated 
workflow now with Cinepaint, lprof, and Argyll.  Since I don't do any more 
editing than RAW conversion with WB, levels, and curves, Cinepaint should 
be adequate.

Linux is *very* immature WRT color management (and thus by 
definition realy photo editing).

-Cory

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Re: OT: The modern world confuses me

2007-12-23 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sun, 23 Dec 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The agency I worked at in he eighties had a mix of Macs and Power 
 Computing clones. The clones were always problematic, and they 
 eventually ended up on the trash heap. it was Apple's idea to license 
 the op sys to clones. It didn't work, and they went back to being 
 exclusive. Looking at the stock price and the market penetration, I'd 
 say it was a very good choice. Paul -- Original message 
 -- From: Polyhead [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:07:06 +

I was a pretty big mac guy at the time of the clones.  As I recall 
they primarily killed the clones because they were losing their shirt by 
the clones cannibalizing their marketshare.  Clones were very 
price-competitive with PC's at the time especially on the high-end. 
Apple's high-end machines have always been priced very high (and generally 
not perform to match the price).  They've always made their money on 
hardware, not software but their software is what makes them unique.

As far as the incompatibilities, that's the way PCs in general are 
when you don't have control over both the hardware and software.  Look at 
winders.

I'm still anxiously watching to see how the Hackintosh stuff pans 
out.  (running MacOS-X on non-Apple PC's).

-Cory

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Re: OT: The modern world confuses me

2007-12-23 Thread Cory Papenfuss
snip very interesting insider's look at Apple history

 Apple hardware today is the best it's ever been and a good value for
 dollar. The fact that you can use it to run three operating systems
 (Mac OS X, Linux and Windows), all with screaming performance and
 high reliability, makes it unique in todays computer market. Mac OS X
 today is a very strong, robust, richly featured operating system,
 designed and implemented for at least a twenty year development life.

I basically stopped being a mac person when I started playing with 
Linux and realized I could have a real OS that performed really well on 
inexpensive hardware I could assemble myself.  I was tired of being jerked 
around with my powermac (7100) having been promised an updated OS and 
having it get delayed and ultimately cancelled.  When OSX finally came 
out, I'd moved to generic white box PC's.  Anymore, I find the 
proprietary OS's (Windows AND MacOS-X) confining anyway.  Having played 
with the MacOS-X recently, it's definately very nice I really like 
NeXTStep, and love what it's become.

 I see absolutely no point to the hackintosh stuff. It was *easy* to
 run Mac OS X on generic Intel PC boxes when we were building it ... I
 was directly involved in that project from 1999 to 2004, in various
 capacities ... and to anyone with good engineering skills it would
 not be difficult to backwards engineer it and make it run. But why
 buy into substandard hardware and suffer all the crap that buying
 cheap-ass PC junk implies?

Not all PCs are junk.  If one is handy, spec'ing out a machine and 
building it from quality components can result in a machine that has 
better performance than anything from Apple.  Lots of effort, and you lose 
the best part of MacOS (shit just *working*!).


 Besides, Apple will fight a commercial effort of this sort tooth and
 nail, and they have the financial resources to smash it flat.

 Godfrey

My tinfoil-hat part of me hopes they figure a way to leverage 
the hardware-agnostic ability of MacOS to smash the steaming pile of shit 
that is Windows.

-Cory

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Re: Watch that white balance, folks!

2007-12-21 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 21 Dec 2007, Mark Roberts wrote:

 Ken Waller wrote:

 White balance is such a basic part of a digital workflow, it makes me
 think
 the the originator of the image must be a newby.

 Very likely. It also looked to me as if the photo had been shot as a
 JPEG (probably on automatic white balance), and to many JPEG shooters,
 white balance *isn't* a basic part of their digital workflow.

... and if you shoot JPEG, it really *has* to be.  That's one of 
the main reasons I shoot RAW for pretty much everything.

-Cory

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Re: PESO - A view of Denali

2007-12-20 Thread Cory Papenfuss
Very impressive shot.  Did you win the lottery to drive into 
the park?  How long were you there before you got a clear shot?

I gotta get back there to try to see it clear sometime...

-Cory

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007, Ken Waller wrote:

 Please check out http://mypeoplepc.com/members/kwaller/offwallphoto/id2.html

 Taken with PZ1P, 70-210mm SCMP F, Velvia @ 50.

 Comments appreciated.

 Kenneth Waller
 http://www.tinyurl.com/272u2f

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Re: Interesting DSLR comparison at dpreview.com

2007-12-17 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sat, 15 Dec 2007, David J Brooks wrote:

 On Dec 15, 2007 2:25 PM, Thibouille [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Boris, I really think some reviews (rare ones) are truely useful,
 complete and objective as one can be.
 However DpReview (notthe onl site of course but it is very good
 example) typically proves the guys running it are either incompetent
 (which I beleive) are a lot more interested in the revenues the site
 generates (also the case for DpR).


I decided their reviews are useless as reviews a long time ago. 
They're good at enumerating and comparing published specifications between 
different brands/models, but that's about it.  Their choices on test shots 
are rather poor (JPEG?  Kit lens?), although this recent one appears to 
use a good prime and RAW.

According to them, *EVERY* camera they review is a must-buy, 
great camera.

-Cory

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Re: 50mm bokeh (was - Re: f1.8)

2007-11-07 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 I've found that for shots without harsh lighting that will cause
flare, the K50/1.4 performs well wide-open, with a nice bokeh.  It's not
so good at flare-prone shots (e.g. photo of city lights at night flying
from above)
 Here's one of mumsy in overcast forrest conditions in Alaska...
IIRC it was either f/1.4 or f/2
  http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/0709-20_19_58-imgp2227.jpg

-Cory

On Wed, 7 Nov 2007, Cotty wrote:

 Sorry - resent with better subject.

 Speaking of bokeh on 50mm's - I've just enabled myself with a K50mm f1.4
 - anyone know if this lens is a decent performer? I intend to use it on
 a 2x crop camera, so effective FOV will be about the same as a 100mm
 lens on 35mm film. Probably used pretty wide open. Any comments?

 Not you Peter.



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Re: Creating photo website in linux

2007-11-06 Thread Cory Papenfuss
I use this:

http://www.armandocaro.net/software/

It's pretty slick in that all you have to do is run it in a 
directory of photos, and it'll generate everything more or less 
automatically.  Also, it makes flat HTML files, rather than automated php, 
database, etc, etc really simple/fast to host.

-Cory

On Mon, 5 Nov 2007, Bran Everseeking wrote:

 Any one have a program that they love and adore for the purpose of
 creating a photo gallery website under Linux?

 Once upon a time I would do code in a text editor but I have grown dumb
 and lazy.

 Bran




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Re: More stream power

2007-11-06 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 6 Nov 2007, Bill Owens wrote:

 http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=200851nseq=10

 Not my photo, but a classic steam locomotive built at the Norfolk and
 Western shops in Roanoke, VA.  It was built in 1950 and was arguably the
 most efficient steam engine ever built.

 Bill

Very classy.  I'm somewhat ignorant of the locomotive evolution, 
but the railyard of Roanoke, VA is still clearly visible from the air 
still.  I fly over it occasionally, and the multitude of tracks in the 
switchyard is rather impressive.

-Cory

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Re: PESO - The Barmaid

2007-10-29 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Did you read the enjoyable beer article in the NYT last week?

 http://www.nytimes.com/2007/10/24/dining/24pour.html?_r=1oref=slogin

Very encouraging to read of the double-digit growth in the craft 
beer market in the US.  Really tremendous opportunity to bring good beer 
to the general public.  Although I've only been homebrewing for a bit over 
two years, I've got many dozens of sucessful batches I've enjoyed in that 
time.  Although I haven't done the true cask ale, my kegerator is set to 
50 degrees F, and carbonation is low for pretty much everything except the 
Weissbier.

On tap now:
- Bavarian Weiss
- Imperial American IPA (clone of Stone IPA)
- American Rye pale ale
- Export Scottish Ale
- Oatmeal molasses imperial sweet stout

Secondary fermenting:
- Strong Scottish Ale
- American harvest holiday ale (pumpkin, corn, rye, and spices)
- Hard apple cider

Primary fermenting:
- Dry American west-coast stout
- German-style extra-special-bitter


Cheers (*HIC*),

-Cory

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Re: Halloween and the Curse of Cheap Glass

2007-10-28 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 To my eyes it looks as though the bear shot is focussed on the
 dandelions in front of the bears; the animals themselves look
 a little soft (photographically, not physically!).

Yes, the focus is a bit off... MF beast.  Had to shoot wide-open 
due to hand-holding out the truck window.  One *more* situation where I 
lusted after the anti-shake not present in my -DS.  :)

-Cory

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Re: Halloween and the Curse of Cheap Glass

2007-10-26 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 26 Oct 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks Dave. I had the K at one time as well. It was quite good but 
 wouldn't focus close enough to shoot birds. When the D came out, I 
 figured I should sell it and buy an A. That gave me both much closer 
 focus and full auto metering. I think I sold the K for $300 and bought 
 the A for $400. Not a bad exchange. Paul -- Original message 
 --

A good lens for the money, to be sure.  I've got a Takumar version 
of it that pulled this off last summer:

http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp7713.jpg

I'd like to get a decent doubler to do another moonshot.

-Cory

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Re: Halloween and the Curse of Cheap Glass

2007-10-26 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 26 Oct 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Excellent. Hope there was a fence between you and that critter. With 
 film, you're still a little short for moon shots with the 400 and a 2X 
 converter. You'd have a pretty heavy crop. A 600 and a 2X would get you 
 in the ballpark. Paul

Actually, no there was no fence, it was a real sow brown bear with 
cub, alongside the road to Haines, Alaska.  There were some idiots in a 
car in front of us who'd gotten out of the car, but the one I was in was 
running and in gear.  When I looked at the lens focussing ring, her 
eyeballs indicated 70 feet away.  :)

-Cory

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Re: Next move from Pentax: hints about sensor for next camera(s)

2007-10-19 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Oh, possibly. But the point is that two megapixels *alone* won't do
 anything - there has to be more to it. Lower noise would count :)

 I don't expect Pentax to go full-frame yet but I certainly hope they
 don't try to cram more than 10 MP into an APS-C sensor. A 1.2-1.3 crop
 would suit me fine.

I don't remember the particular of the comment, but I thought at 
one point someone had said that the cropped lenses (DA, etc) could 
probably cover a 1.3 crop.  Maybe not with SR?

The flip side is that with a 1.2/1.3 crop, FF lenses could still 
definately utilize SR.  With a true FF, they may not be able to... 
especially on long focal length.

-Cory

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Re: Next move from Pentax: anyone in the know (even under NDA) ?

2007-10-16 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 16 Oct 2007, Gonz wrote:

 emacs.

 unless i absolutely have to send a doc, then MS word.


If someone *requires* a Word doc, I'll embed a TIF of my LaTeX 
document into Word.  Word is used as the wrong tool for so many jobs it's 
incredible.

-Cory

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Re: Katz Eye Split prism screen

2007-10-16 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 16 Oct 2007, P. J. Alling wrote:

 It probably interfers with spot metering more than anything else.

 Steve Desjardins wrote:
 While I'm think of it, does anyone have one of these?  I seem to
 remember that is created some metering problems, but I'm not sure where
 I heard this.

 http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/item--Katz-Eye-Focusing-Screen-for-the-Pentax-K10D--prod_K10D.html


... and stop-down metering with old lenses.

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Re: Next move from Pentax: anyone in the know (even under NDA) ?

2007-10-16 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 16 Oct 2007, Adam Maas wrote:

 Actually it's just ingrained muscle memory, years of having to use vi
 while maintaining services on Unix machines means that the basic editing
 commands are pretty much automatic. vi is ideal for that use, it's
 lightweight and everything has it.

 I still :wq on a regular basis in just about every other editor/word
 processor.

 If you want punishment, use emacs. All the weight of Word, none of the
 Eye Candy.

The way I think of it is that emacs is so configurable in so many 
ways, that it's impossible to configure it at all.  Besides, Lisp has a 
dribbling lisp of parenthesis...

Vi is evil, and I often wish I'd had to learn it.  :)

-Cory

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Re: Next move from Pentax: anyone in the know (even under NDA)?

2007-10-16 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 16 Oct 2007, Steve Desjardins wrote:

 Let's see:

 1. Word Processing software
 2. Political orientations
 3. Sci Fi quotes
 4. Some discussion of DSLR design.
 5. Some name calling

 Yep, typical PDML thread. VBG

DAMN!   My email client ordered them wrong so you beat me to it!

-Cory

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Re: Next move from Pentax: anyone in the know (even under NDA) ?

2007-10-16 Thread Cory Papenfuss
Wow.  Impressive thread.  Let me know if I missed any 
controversies:

- WR vs. JCO AND WR+JCO vs PDML.
- Sensor sizes defying physical laws
- Whether Pentax will ever release a FF-DSLR
- Canikon vs. Pentax
- Emacs vs. VI
- Firefox vs. Internet Exploiter
- Policitcal conservatism vs. liberalism.
- Mac vs. PC.
- A fish pun thread

What'd I miss?

-Cory

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Re: Next move from Pentax: anyone in the know (even under NDA) ?

2007-10-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss

That's 2.3 stops to 100%.

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 The active photosite area in the K10D sensor is around 20-30% of the
 chip area. There's a long ways to go before we get anywhere near a
 100% efficient collector surface...

 G

 On Oct 15, 2007, at 7:55 AM, Bob Sullivan wrote:

 The critical question I have for this sensor arguement is what portion
 the chip is actively engaged in light gathering.  75%, 85%, 95%?  I
 think you guys are dancing around the issue without addressing it.  We
 can all agree that no sensor can gather 110% of the light falling on
 it.  So what is technology at today?




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Re: First Try with Astro Photography

2007-09-04 Thread Cory Papenfuss
Do you have an example of such an elaborate photograph somewhere 
online?  Sounds pretty nifty.

-Cory

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007, Bob Blakely wrote:

 Interesting. The chromatic aberration produced by the lens can clearly be
 seen. This would not have been evident if the moon were properly exposed -
 but then you wouldn't have recorded any of the sisters.

 For stars, nebulae, etc. (not the moon) at high magnification:

 The following requires a properly aligned equatorial mount with sidereal
 tracking, a ref converter with as much magnification as you can get and the
 entire night in a dark area.

 I:
put on a green filter, focus, take many exposures,
put on a red filter, focus, take many exposures,
put on a blue filter, focus, take many exposures,

then I triple size each of them.
then I register  stack each color separately,
then I import them into Photoshop,

then I zero the red  the blue in the green image,
then I zero the green  the blue in the red image,
then I zero the red  the green in the blue image,
I do this because the filters aren't perfect...
Then I combine them,

Then I balance them for white on the brightest star - unless I want to
 accentuate something.

 It's a lot of work, takes an unbelievable amount of time, but carefully
 done, it kills the chromatic aberration, reduces noise, sharpens the image
 and brings out things that would not otherwise be seen.

 There's probably a much better way to do this, and astronomers out there can
 probably help, but this does work.

 Regards,
 Bob...
 
 Life isn't like a box of chocolates . .
 it's more like a jar of jalapenos.
 What you do today, might burn your butt tomorrow.

 - Original Message -
 From: Beaker [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 Hi Group-

 Took a stab at astrophotography last night.
 First try overexposed the moon, but got the Pleiades. Then found a
 good exposure for the moon.
 Stopped while I was still ahead...

 It was prime focus with a Stellarvue AT1010. (80 mm, f/6 acromat, and
 Pentax K100D)

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/1314752257/in/
 set-72157594414463840/




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Re: I Hate My *ist D - Eclipse Photos

2007-08-30 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007, Brian Walters wrote:

 Hi Cory

 Thanks - I use Linux as well (dual boot with win XP) but compiling from 
 source is something I've never quite come to grips with.  I always tend 
 to get masses of errors and missing dependencies.

 Both Irfanview and Studioline allow the user to tweak the dcraw 
 settings.  I'm not quite sure how they relate to what you have done but 
 I'll give it a try.

With the dcraw command-line, the settings are probably the -k and 
-b options.

-Cory

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Re: Viewfinder Free Zone

2007-08-29 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007, David Savage wrote:

 On 8/29/07, Cory Papenfuss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On of my favorite fisheye self-portraits.

 http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/PESO/7/

 Definately viewfinder-free.

 That's a good un' alright.

 FE's are good for that.

 Cheers,

 Dave

Thanks.  The only thing I *don't* like about it is that there's no 
way to know if I'm actually flying (which I was), or posing on the ramp on 
the ground.  Oh well, I know the truth.  :)

-Cory

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Re: I Hate My *ist D - Eclipse Photos

2007-08-29 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007, Tom C wrote:

 Thanks.  Maybe I'll call them and see what it will cost.  While I can
 believe my 3 year old *ist D has a problem I can't believe the crap that
 came out of the *ist DS.

 http://photo.net/photodb/presentation.tcl?presentation_id=355761

 The first is ISO 800 f/1.8 for 6 seconds.  The second is a straight up Milky
 Way shot, ISO 800, f/1.8, 20 seconds.

 I'm wondering if this might not be an irfanview conversion problem with
 these (PC with Photoshop crashed).

 Tom C.

There are two possible reasons that I can think of for what I see 
here...

1:
Irfanview is based on dcraw for its RAW conversion.  I've had 
issues with dcraw in doing starry-night conversions because of the way it 
decides on the white point.  By default, I think it chooses the white 
point at the luminosity of the 99th percentile of the photo.  Thus, by 
default, 1% of the pixels are blown out.

I've changed that setting on my version of it a few times to make 
it 99.9th or 99.99th percentile for star photos.  Works great.

2:
The problem with star photos and the DSLRs is that the histogram 
cannot be set to logrithmic.  When over 99% of the pixels are *SUPPOSED* 
to be black, you cannot tell if the 1% that are white are anywhere near 
exposed properly because the don't even show up on the histogram.

It looks like you might have a combination of the two.  Try the 
RAW conversion again, but make sure it doesn't add a bunch of brightness 
to it.

-Cory

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Re: I Hate My *ist D - Eclipse Photos

2007-08-29 Thread Cory Papenfuss

 I hate my *ist D.  I stayed up until 5:15 AM taking eclipse photos.  The
 first several within 20 minutes of when the eclipse started look OK,
 though
 that was not the fabulous part of the evening(morning).  However, the
 camera
 quickly became noisy (electronic noise), even at short exposures ISO 400
 and
 1/500 sec.  All with Tokina 500 f/8 mirror lens.

 Of course it was at its absolute worst during totality.  One shot for some
 reason was less noisy than the others, though still ruined by noise (next
 to
 the last as presented).

 http://photo.net/photodb/presentation.tcl?presentation_id=355756

 Most shots looked good on the LCD, even when magnified to check focus,
 with
 orange hues and turquoise tones at the edge of earths shadow.  All lost to
 noise.

 Some taken during totality didn't make muster because 8 - 10 sec exposures
 were too long and exhibited too much tracking across the frame.

 I'm not sure if I have a hardware problem with the camera... may be time
 to
 throw it in the trash.  I've taken other aurora shots with the same body
 that were virtually noise free at exposures of 15 - 20 seconds. The newer
 *ist DS with less than 1000 shots on it was even worse, however, at ISO
 800
 and 2 secs.  Images (not shown here) were absolutely obliterated. Looked
 like a Photoshop effect.

 Still amazing to watch.

 Tom C.

These looks to me like not a noise problem, but a *signal* to 
noise problem.  Again, without a useful histogram, it's difficult to know 
if you got the bright parts exposed to the right.  By default, the RAW 
converters I've seen will gain up the entire image until the brightest 
part is bright.  Some even ignore the top 1% or so of what's brightest 
and make the 99th percent white and blow out the top 1%  For stars and 
such that is definately unacceptable.

A good example is your
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=6356709

Re-convert from RAW so that the white part of the moon isn't blown 
out (assuming it wasn't in the original RAW).  That'll reduce the black 
back down to the noise floor where it belongs.  If the moon is still too 
bright to make out the detail in the more dimly-lit parts (but isn't blown 
out in the brightest), then sorry, Charlie... not enough dynamic range to 
capture in one shot.

-Cory

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Re: Viewfinder Free Zone

2007-08-29 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007, Digital Image Studio wrote:

 On 29/08/07, Cory Papenfuss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On of my favorite fisheye self-portraits.

 http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/PESO/7/

 Definately viewfinder-free.

 LOL, I can identify with that:

 http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/BigVdub/Pics/EDDIE2.jpg

Excellent.  It's actually almost the same plane as mine.  A 
slightly newer year, but the same basic model.  I've found fisheyes about 
the only way to really get wide enough to get a feeling for flying in a 
small plane like that.

-Cory

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Re: I Hate My *ist D - Eclipse Photos

2007-08-29 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007, Brian Walters wrote:

 Quoting Cory Papenfuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

  Irfanview is based on dcraw for its RAW conversion.  I've had
 issues with dcraw in doing starry-night conversions because of the
 way it
 decides on the white point.  By default, I think it chooses the
 white
 point at the luminosity of the 99th percentile of the photo.  Thus,
 by
 default, 1% of the pixels are blown out.

  I've changed that setting on my version of it a few times to make

 it 99.9th or 99.99th percentile for star photos.  Works great.


 That's interesting.  I've had a similar experience with the 
 interpretation of Raw files in Studioline Photo Classic, a program that 
 I use for cataloging images.  It also uses dcraw.  The raw conversion of 
 photos I took some months ago of Comet McNaught are all blown out badly 
 in the Studioline conversions.

 I don't quite understand the setting changes you made to Irfanview.  Can you 
 elaborate?


 Cheers

 Brian

Since I'm a linux guy and compiled dcraw from Dave Coffin's C 
source code, I simply changed that one line to a different number. 
Probably doesn't help most people who use programs *based* on dcraw.

The originial line of code read
   perc = width * height * 0.01; /* 99th percentile white point */
... which I changed to
   perc = width * height * 0.001; /* 99.9th percentile white point */
or
   perc = width * height * 0.0001; /* 99.99th percentile white point */


I could have done it by manipulating the blackpoint and brightness 
settings instead, but I would have had to do that by hand.  I generally 
run through all my RAW conversions with everything set up on auto, and 
only fine-tune the ones that deserve special attention.  Re-compiling the 
source allowed me to use the same batch mode script, just have a modified 
dcraw good for star photos.

Sorry, that probably doesn't help much.

-Cory

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Re: Viewfinder Free Zone

2007-08-28 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007, Digital Image Studio wrote:

 On 26/08/07, David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 G'day All,

 Just for chuckles:

 http://picasaweb.google.com.au/OzSavage/ViewfinderFreeZone
 (all shot with the K10D  DA 16-45)

 Show 'em if you've got 'em.

 Shots made with cameras with live LCD view don't count.


On of my favorite fisheye self-portraits.

http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/PESO/7/

Definately viewfinder-free.

-Cory

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Re: New 12MP APS-C CMOS sensor from Sony

2007-08-23 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Not quite the same, Cory. For operation of the current DSLRs, the
 cycle of activity starts with the mirror down, sensor initialized and
 ready to go. For a Live View mode, the shutter has to be closed, the
 sensor reset to the capture mode, and then the exposure cycle
 started. If in continuous capture mode, the shutter is cycled as
 normal and then, at end, the sensor is reset to the real time capture
 mode, the shutter reopened, etc etc. There are also implications
 regards the focusing system and several other possible system
 interactions involved.

 There are both hardware electronics and mechanical implications to
 all of this. It's not ... just programming ... as you casually
 suggested. Nor is it free.

Unless there is a physical, mechanical linkage between the mirror, 
shutter, and focus motor (unlikely).  All of that is done via software 
control.  Thus, it in fact is, just programming.  There are a lot of 
details to consider in such programming, but aside from writing the 
routines to control the sensor in live capture mode, process them quicker, 
and display on the screen quicker, the rest of the routines are already 
primarily written.

-Cory

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Re: New 12MP APS-C CMOS sensor from Sony

2007-08-23 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 ... Unless there is a physical, mechanical linkage between the mirror,
 shutter, and focus motor (unlikely).  ...

 In Pentax DSLR cameras, the operation of the iris actuation, mirror
 and shutter mechanisms are mechanically linked very tightly together.
 The iris actuation system can operate as a partial cycle for DoF
 Preview, but flipping the mirror up and operating the shutter
 requires the complete cycle to operate. To do anything else requires
 a mechanical redesign. This is one of the reasons why current Pentax
 DSLRs support a mirror pre-fire operation but not a mirror lock up
 mode. The focusing system is mechanically separate.

 So it's not just programming. Capisco?

 Godfrey

I stand corrected on the mechanical interconnects.

Cheers,
-Cory

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Re: New 12MP APS-C CMOS sensor from Sony

2007-08-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 22 Aug 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 With the capability of Live View and MF Assist, you have your choice
 to use what's appropriate when you want to, that's all. If you've
 never used a camera that has the facility, you can't know how it will
 be useful to you ... it is a paradigm shift.

 Regards battery life:

 The Panasonic L1 has a 1500 mAh rated battery. On a recent landscape
 shoot I used the camera on a tripod in Live View mode exclusively. I
 recorded about 650 exposures per fully charged battery. Without Live
 View enabled, I get about 750 exposures per charge. So it's fairly
 efficient on power management.

 Godfrey

Not to pick nits here, but 1500mAh is not a measure of battery 
energy capacity unless the voltage is known.  It's similar to saying My 
car gets 35 miles per.  If the gallon are understood (e.g. AA NiMH 
chemistry), it's a good way of comparing similar products.  If it happens 
to be liter, quart, cup, barrel, etc, (e.g. multiple Lithium cells 
stacked together), its useless in comparing capacities.

-Cory

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Re: New 12MP APS-C CMOS sensor from Sony

2007-08-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss

 You excel at picking nits.

 It's unimportant, Cory. What's important is that the differential
 between shooting with the Live View enabled vs the optical finder
 alone is not that enormous. If the minutiae of the battery
 specification is that important to you, you could have looked it up
 easily: The Panasonic takes a CGR-S603A battery, 7.2V, rated 1500 mAh.

 For comparison sake, the Pentax K10D's supplied LI50 battery is 7.4V,
 rated 1700 mAh. My current records show that I get an average around
 925 exposures per full charge with it.

 Godfrey

Yes, I have a tendency to pick nits particularly on pet 
peeves.  Battery misinformation is one such pet peeve.  It was not a 
personal attack, simply pointing out that such a piece of information is 
useless for the point trying to be conveyed.

I've never noticed significantly less life out of my -DS depending 
on how much I use the LCD.  I personally don't see much value in live 
viewing on the screen, except in very rare circumstances like ground-level 
shooting.  Without a pivotable screen though, even that is dubiously 
valuable.

OTOH, it's basically a free addition since it doesn't require 
anything other than software, so I'm surprised it's taken this long to be 
included.

-Cory

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Re: need 1.5V button cells? Nice hack :)

2007-08-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 22 Aug 2007, Thibouille wrote:

 http://www.wisebread.com/the-40-hidden-inside-a-12v-battery

 That one is funny.. even usefull for some, maybe ;)

Yeah, but how many mAh?  ;-)


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Re: need 1.5V button cells? Nice hack :)

2007-08-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 wow, totally useful, great to know

 The batteries he pulled out are not suited to camera use though. The button
 cells that most cameras use, including all post Spotmatic Pentaxes are MS76
 or DL1/3N. In a pinch, the #357 watch battery can be used, with a shorter
 life expectancy.
 Cory's question regarding mAh ratings, while sent tongue in cheek is a valid
 question.

 William Robb

It was sent tongue-in-cheek in reference to the other thread where 
I was clarifying (arguing?) about battery capacity.

-Cory

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Re: New 12MP APS-C CMOS sensor from Sony

2007-08-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 My apologies if stating that the battery was rated for a capacity of
 1500 mAh without specifying that it is also rated at 7.2V is some
 enormous breach of information disclosure ethics.

 OTOH, it's basically a free addition since it doesn't require
 anything other than software, so I'm surprised it's taken this long
 to be
 included.

 The implementation requires a live capture mode sensor chip, which
 until recently could not be supported in a large sensor without high
 power consumption and resultant overheating, destroying image quality
 and shortening the lifespan of the sensor to an unusable level. And

I'm ignorant of these issues.  I'd imagine the CCD's are more 
difficult to read out this way than CMOS sensors.  One doesn't need 
anywhere near full resolution to display on the LCD.

 then there is all the mechanical coordination required for a DSLR to
 manage the iris/mirror/shutter/exposure sequencing,
It's the same mechanical coordination required for shooting normal 
shots.  I dont' see why this is any more mechanically complicated than two 
shots in a row... the first one a few seconds and the second one normal.

on top of the
 programming of capture and rendering dynamics for that live view
 mode. Yea, a free addition ...

Again... the same thing done for the still image preview.  Of 
course it has to be economized for video-mode, but in any event, that's 
software.

 Pointing out that doesn't require anything other than software is
 nonsensical isn't even a nit pick: it's just plain wrong.

 Godfrey

Except for the live readout of the sensor I admitted I was 
ignorant about, the rest is either software/hardware routines already in 
place, or strictly software.


-Cory

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Re: K100D Shutter Release Cable

2007-08-02 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Thu, 2 Aug 2007, P. J. Alling wrote:

 Yes, and you could build your own for even less.

 http://www.instructables.com/id/E39XW91POAEZ7C935Q/



I build a slightly smaller, ergonomic, robust, and Mac-centric 
version from an old mic:

http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp0634.jpg
http://filebox.ece.vt.edu/~papenfuss/imgp0635.jpg

I have since labelled it with 1/2-press and full-press so as 
to not get confused.

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Re: PESO - By the glacier

2007-07-21 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 20 Jul 2007, Brian Walters wrote:

 That looks friggin' cold, and the human doesn't seem to be dressed anywhere 
 near warmly enough!

 Nicely composed image.  The human figure does provide the appropriate sense 
 of scale.

 Not much chance of seeing glaciers in Australia.  The last one I saw was in 
 New Zealand about 30 years ago - wonder if it's still there

I just got back from Alaska last week.  This guy's dress is likely 
appropriate for the summer, even though he's on a glacier.  Juneau is 
normally 60-65 degrees in the summer, although it routinely gets into the 
mid 70's as well.

-Cory

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Re: Turning fisheye pictures into rectilinear

2007-07-13 Thread Cory Papenfuss
I use it for stitching panos and for coordinate transformations 
(e.g. fisheye-rectilinear).

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/

On Wed, 11 Jul 2007, Dario Bonazza wrote:

 A friend of mine is interested in obtaining rectilinear pictures from his
 10-17mm fisheye zoom.
 Does anyone has knowledge on that? Since Pentax doesn't supply a dedicated
 software for making fisheye pictures look straight, which third-party
 software can be best used? Are there any freeware utilities available for
 that?

 Thanks

 Dario




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Re: Turning fisheye pictures into rectilinear

2007-07-13 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 11 Jul 2007, David Savage wrote:

 PS is OK for small distortions, but it's not so good for correcting
 those inherent to fisheye lenses.

Sorry folks...One of my pet peeves here

Fisheye lenses are no more distorted than regular rectilinear. 
It's just a different type of projection used to map a spherical 
real-world representation onto a planar object.  It just so happens that 
under most circumstances (read: non-extreme wide angle and towards the 
center), the straight-lines map to straight-lines of a rectiliear 
projection appear more natural to people.  If you look at an extreme 
wideangle rectilinear projection, I can assure you that it looks more 
distorted than a fisheye projection.

I'm not saying that there's not a use for coordinate 
transformations, just that calling fisheye lenses distorted and 
rectilinear not distorted is distorted... ;-)

  -Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Personally I find the lighter lagers more refreshing in the summer than
 heavier microbrews.  I also find some of the microbrews make me feel grouchy
 within several minutes of drinking them. I don't know if it's a yeast
 sensitvity or what, but I can feel it within the first few drinks.

 Tom C.

Lighter beers are definately more refreshing during the summer 
months.  For me, that means a good pale ale or a weissbeer.  The ole ales, 
wee heavies, stouts and porters are much more approprate for cooler 
temperatures like fall, winter, or UK.  :)

The big problem with American-style light lagers is that they 
taste best when served ice cold so that one cannot taste them anyway.

-Cory
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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 In the case of Budweiser, which is probably the worlds best selling
 commercial beer, there must be a hell of a lot of people who like the stuff.
 Personally, I'll take Molson Canadian over most any other beer, including
 the exotics. It's another of what you would consider beer for people who
 don't like beer, which is interesting, since I both quite like beer, and
 have made a couple of dozen different types.
 My favourite home brew is one which emulates Canadian as well.
 Go figure.

 William Robb

So you like the light lager style of beer.  Nothing wrong with 
that as it has its place (lawnmower summertime barley/rice-pop).  It's 
just a very small part of the beer flavor spectrum with a very large part 
of the marketshare.

-Cory

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Re: fisheye

2007-06-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007, Fiso_PENTAX wrote:

 Hello Cotty,

 http://tinyurl.com/2rnot9

 150 GBP / 300 USD  is that the going rate for one of these?

 Alternatives not considered - I'm going to hack the aperture lever off !

 Cheers,
   Cotty

 One alternative, anyway :) :

 http://www.rugift.com/

 MC Zenitar-M 2,8/16 Fisheye for Canon EOS
 $179


 It is not pentax, but not bad either I have one in K mount.

I've got one in K-mount... good lens.  More flare-prone than SMC 
Pentax of course (especially since it's wide).  Not very fish on 1.5 crop 
on the DSLR though.  For that, I've got the Russian Peleng 8mm f/3.5. 
Very impressive for the money.

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007, Kenneth Waller wrote:

 I find ANY beer (except that light #@%*+)tastes good on a warm summertime
 day after I've just mowed the lawn!

 Kenneth Waller

...but a good ale shouldn't be abused by serving it ice-cold...

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-13 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 12 Jun 2007, Scott Loveless wrote:

 Paul Stenquist wrote:
 I like Dogfish Head India Pale Ale. However, I'm not enough of a beer
 export to say that it's a true IPA. One of my favorite beers comes
 from a little restaurant in Ann Arbor, Michigan called Grizzly Peak.
 They brew some beer, and their Bear Paw Porter is one of the best
 brews I've ever had. And that includes extensive sampling of local
 brews in Germany and Belgium. It's rich and sweet, but that's the way
 I like it. Uh huh, uh huh :-).
 Paul
 On Jun 11, 2007, at 9:16 PM, Cory Papenfuss wrote:



 I have to plug these guys again.  Flat Branch in Columbia, MO.
 http://www.flatbranch.com/  Get the Flat Branch Burger with mashers and
 wash it down with an Oil Change Stout (I don't generally like dark
 beers, but I always get an Oil Change when I'm there).

 Scott Loveless

I always find it entertaining/annoying that most people categorize 
beer as light vs dark.  The flavor of a beer often has little to do with 
the color.  It's probably more accurately described as fizzy yellow 
american style lager vs any other style.

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-13 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 12 Jun 2007, Gonz wrote:

 Homebrewing could be alot of work, depending on how fanatical you
 are about it.  But it could also be pretty easy.  I still buy most of
 the beer I drink.  I homebrew mostly for fun, not to supply me with
 beer.  Its not economical, unless you buy cheap ingredients.  The
 taste can be phenomenal however, even in some instances, much better
 than anything commercial I have ever had.  The downside is that it can
 be time consuming, take up alot of space, and stink up your kitchen
 with a strong hoppy smell.  Oh, of course, it can also make you buy
 expensive gear, much like photography. ;)

I'll agree with that to some extent, but I think it deserves 
further clarification.  It's one of the strange hobbies that costs less 
the more you spend.  If you keep it simple and cheap, then the cost of 
making a good extract homebrew is probably about the same as cheap 
commercial beer.  If you buy/build enough equipment to make an all-grain 
homebrew, it's often significantly cheaper per batch.  Of course there's 
more equipment outlay, but it's not necessarily *that* expensive.

Crude approximations based on the prices I've seen around here

Inexpensive extract:
- Basic equipment for fermenting, racking, bottling: $150 (carboys, 
racking/airlock equipment, 5 gallon pot, bottling equipment)
- Ingredient cost for 6% beer: $35-$45/5gal (50 bottles) (7-9 lbs extract, 
2-4 oz hops, yeast)

Inexpensive all-grain equipment:
- Additional equipment over extract: $150 (bigger pot + malt mill + mash 
tun)
- Ingredient cost for 6% beer: $15-$20/5gal (10-12 lbs grain, 2-4oz hops, 
yeast)

I routinely brew 7% IPA's for $10-$15 per batch.  You can't even 
buy one case of megaswill beer for that.

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-13 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 My costs are higher, I dont use tap water (chlorine), and I buy the
 best beer style specific yeast I can get my hands on and dont re-use
 it.  There are also incidentals: malt sugar to make a yeast starter +
 hops for that, cleaning and sterilizing supplies, propane, ice for
 chilling the wort down (double exchange), etc.


Sure... It's not too difficult to get nickel-and-dime'd to make it 
more expensive.  I'm somewhat of a cheap bastard, so I've tried to find 
the cheapest way to go without affecting quality.  For instance:

- Potassium metabisulfite to treat the chlorine/chloramine.  Buying water 
sucks.
- I reuse the yeast a few times (3-6 times per) to get the per-batch cost 
down (I also buy high-quality liquid yeast appropriate for the style).
- Minimal malt sugar for starters (doesn't take much to get a *huge* 
population).  I've had the same 5 lb bag for 9 months.  Reusing the yeast 
cake helps there too.
- I've been on the same liter of idophor for 1.5 years.
- I just switched to propane, but my estimate is 4 batches per $14 fill?
- Ice for chilling wort?  Mustn't have cool enough tap water?

Anyway, to each their own... I might cut a few corners, but I've 
never noticed any difference in quality.  A new, fresh yeast is definately 
a big percentage of the expense of an all-grain batch so reusing helps. 
Or maybe I don't want to explain to myself the *true* cost of a batch... 
:)

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-13 Thread Cory Papenfuss

 - Potassium metabisulfite to treat the chlorine/chloramine.  Buying water
 sucks.

 I've found with my wine making that if I let tap water sit idle for a few
 days the chlorine gasses out. Don't know about chloramine though.

Yeah, aerating and/or letting it sit and outgas for awhile will 
take care of chlorine.  Not so with chloramine I don't think I think 
that's the point of them so they're more stable.

-Cory

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RE: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-11 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sat, 9 Jun 2007, Bob W wrote:

 I'm quite adventurous in my beer explorations. IPA is one of the few
 beers I don't particularly like - it's too bland. Stout is another.
 This makes for a difficult choice after a game of squash because the
 bar at my club only serves IPA and stout. A few weeks ago I found a
 shop which sold quite a wide range of US micro-beers, so I bought a
 bottle of each to try them and I was rather disappointed, to be
 honest. Most of them were too malty for me. I guess they don't travel
 particularly well. Either that or they're meant to be served much
 colder than I like.

Wow... never heard of someone who doesn't like malty beers 
describing and IPA or stout as too bland.  Most who don't like IPAs 
object to the assertive hop bitterness.  Stouts are also surprisingly 
bitter, but generally have enough body and sweetness to cover it. 
Something like a Guiness *is* surprisingly bland, so I'd recommend a 
sweeter, maltier variety.  Also, commercial IPAs tend to have hoppiness 
that is someone subdued and stale as compared to a fresh micro or home 
brew.  I have been rather pleased with Stone's Ruination IPA though for a 
commercial beer (when it's not a hop-head homebrew).

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-11 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 of most Washington/Oregon IPAs.  Beer should be clear.

BOOO!  GET OFF THE STAGE!

*Light lagers* should be clear, but ales are perfectly acceptable 
with a bit of cloudiness IMO.

-Cory

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Re: Meta-GFM: Are there any *bad* microbreweries in NC?

2007-06-11 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sat, 9 Jun 2007, graywolf wrote:

 Is there such a thing as an american IPA? India Pale Ale was a British 
 invention, the hops were supposed to make it travel well, e.g. to India 
 by sailing ship for the troops to drink.

 Anchor makes a pretty decent Porter, but that is about the only American 
 made version that is actually good, Black Hook is mediocre at best and 
 the rest, well... Most microbrewers try, but lose something in 
 translation.

 Strangely most of the microbrews are more expensive than the imports. 
 Well, most folks think expensive is good. BTW premium beer is an 
 american invention, the term means the same cheap beer at a higher 
 price. sorry no grin.


An APA is an IPA style that uses American-style hops (like Cascade 
or it's more assertive sibling Centenial) throughout the bitterness, 
flavor, and aroma/dry profile.  Like many Americanisms, it tends to be 
over-the-top in lots of ways so it generally too hoppy for most.

I have yet to try a commerical porter or stout that really has the 
flavor of a good, fresh, homebrew sweet (or dry) stout.

-Cory

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Re: VIVITAR 285HV - K10D

2007-06-01 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 1 Jun 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 I wouldn't worry about anything under 10V. My Sunpak 383 tests out
 virtually identically to what you're seeing with the 285HV and I've
 been using it on the DS for two years, on the K10D for six months. No
 problems at all.

 What you're really looking to see is that it's not 200V... :-)

 G

When I talked with a Pentax rep, he had to get ahold of an 
engineer to figure out the voltage they were good for.  He said that in my 
-DS, it used a 370V-rated device IIRC.  I've used my Vivitar 2800 (approx 
280V trigger voltage) many times on my -DS without incident.  Designing a 
flash foot that won't take over 10V is evil (read: Canon).

-Cory

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Re: Lithium-ion batteries for istDs?

2007-05-31 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 The total life of a battery is drastically affected by both the depth of
 discharge it's forced to undergo and the rate at which it's forced to do it.
 Draining a battery until there's no juice left serverely curtails the
 batteries life. If I remember correctly, limiting the battery drain to about
 60% depth of discharge is about optimal for greatest overall battery
 performance - but this also depends on many factors.

True for batteries, but not so much for individual cells.  PbSO4 
(lead-acid) batteries will sulphate if left dead for even a short period 
of time, but NiCd and NiMH are OK with being dead.  The trouble comes when 
they aren't discharged individually, whether it's in a sealed battery 
(cordless drills, etc), or due to chargers charging in pairs.  There's 
fairly strong evidence to support a roughly constant cycle x DOD lifetime 
capacity for batteries IIRC.  In other words, if one can run a battery 
down to 50% and back up about 2x as many times as a 100% discharge/charge 
cycle before their life is over.

 All batteries do better with a slow charge. Fast chargers are for when you
 don't have a choice and need your battery ASAP.

More efficent, certainly.  Charging/discharging at 1C (e.g. 2.4A 
for a 2400mAh cell) is only about 60% efficient.  At 0.2C, it's more like 
90%.  As long as they don't get too hot though, it's not particularly bad 
to charge/discharge them at high rates.  Again... if *discharged* at high 
rates in a long series string, individual cells can be damaged due to 
voltage reversal from the other, stronger cells.

 A good NiMH charger will turn completely off when it has fully recharged
 your battery. If you need a trickle charger, you're not using your camera
 enough.

Exactly.  Besides, if you've got a good charger and your batts 
have sat for a couple of weeks, you can crank the current up and top off 
rather quickly.

-Cory

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Re: Don't want to sound too alarmist but...

2007-05-30 Thread Cory Papenfuss

  Citing examples of consumer-grade electronics failing often negate
 the original assumption of properly and correctly designed with decent
 components.  Take a piece of aircraft avionics they live in a
 *horrible* environment with heat/cold/vibration/shock/corrosion and last
 literally for decades.  The failures are almost always mechanical, not
 electrical, and are due to the bad environment.

 The subject is consumer grade electronics.

 William Robb

Actually, the subject was electronics.  If you'd like to 
interpret that as consumer electronics, feel free.  In the broder sense, 
electronics are extremely reliable if properly designed.

-Cory

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Re: Lithium-ion batteries for istDs?

2007-05-30 Thread Cory Papenfuss
Pretty much correct.  The memory effect is almost completely a 
myth... it was only prevalent on 1960's/1970's vintage NiCd cells under 
automatic cyclic charge/discharge cycles used for NASA robots, etc.  The 
much more common cycles are series cells repeatedly cycled and having some 
weaker cells getting progressively more undercharged and abused.  The 
other common failure mode is people so worried about memory effect that 
they keep cells on trickle charge for storage.  It promotes other problems 
that reduces capacity.

I've got some cheapo NiMH AA's (2150 mAh) that only last about 50 
frames in my -DS.  Once I got some good quality Energizers, it's more at 
about 500.  I also invested in a GOOD battery charger (LaCrosse BC-900) 
which charges cells individually, as well as being able to give valuable 
feedback on capacity, discharge, variable charge rates, etc.  Bottom line 
is with good quality NiMH cells and a good charger, they work fine.  If 
you haven't used the camera after a month or so, you may only get 50% if 
you don't top them off first.  Still... not a bad tradeoff.

-Cory

On Wed, 30 May 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 NiMH batteries generally have little 'memory' effect, but there is
 definitely a widely varying range of battery quality in the NiMH
 marketplace. They also have a lifespan, measured in full charge
 cycles, to which the quality of the charger contributes both
 positively and negatively. If you're getting that few exposures per
 charge out of the NiMH battery set, they may well be on the way out.

 I bought a set of Power2000 brand, AA NiMH 2400mAh batteries when I
 got my DS body at the end of 2004/beginning of 2005. They came with a
 matched charger. My general rule of using them is to charge them once
 a week, whether I made many exposures or not, and they've lasted
 well: continue to provide about 600-800 exposures per charge when I
 put the camera to heavy use for a weekend session.

 My use of the DS body has dropped off considerably since I got the
 K10D so I've fitted Everready Energizer AA E2 Lithium disposables
 now. The current set are over a year old, have made about 900-1000
 exposures, and are still powering it without any problems. The AA and
 CRV3 Lithium disposables are the best batteries I've found for the DS
 and are what I'd recommend. At $8-10 per set, and typical lifespan of
 1100-1300 exposures, they're not too expensive to deal with.

 There are CRV-R rechargeables on the market that also fit. Some of
 them deliver voltage which is too high, and could damage the camera.
 They're not recommended by Pentax. If you find a set that are within
 spec for the camera, I know that there are quite a few people who use
 them and report that the slightly higher voltage they supply improves
 focusing.

 But I don't trust them. I'd recommend buying AA Lithium disposables
 in 8 and 16 pack sets to get the best price, and using those instead.

 Godfrey


 On May 30, 2007, at 1:20 PM, Barry Rice wrote:

 My wife photographs with an istDs (which used to be mine), while I
 use a
 K10D. I'm having some battery problems with her camera (sometimes
 the NiMH
 rechargeables seem to hold only enough charge for about 50 shots,
 especially
 if the batteries haven't been used for a while).

 I think that maybe I have to exercise the NiMH rechargeable
 batteries more
 completely occasionally, since I tend to recharge at the end of
 each day
 when I'm using them even if they're just partially depleted. Online
 battery
 FAQs suggest that NiMH don't have much of a memory effect, though.

 Any advice? And I've been wondering---can I can get rechargeable Li-
 ion
 batteries for istDs?





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Re: Don't want to sound too alarmist but...

2007-05-23 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 23 May 2007, Digital Image Studio wrote:

 On 23/05/07, Cory Papenfuss [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Most likely a mechanical failure in the camcorder, and either a
 mechanical failure or electronic overheating in the DVD player.  Properly
 designed solid-state electronics will last practically until the sun burns
 out (or the electrolytic caps fail).

 I should add by citing a very recent example of equipment failure that
 I experienced. Yesterday my network printer printed one job but the
 next was stuck in the queue and would not print. The problem turned
 out to be the JetDirect network interface card in the printer, it was
 simply no more, nothing fried on it (and no tinned electros either
 funny enough) but the printer completely failed to recognize it any
 longer.

 It had on board a Philips ARM processor, Samsung RAM, Broadcom LAN
 interface and another AMD CPU plus a handful of passive components.
 I'm sure that the components could be designed to me more robust but
 I'm also sure that in this case they would have all be working well
 within their design parameters however it broke for no apparent
 reason.

Like I said, properly design electronic devices made with 
high-quality components and attention to thermal design last practically 
forever.  Major causes are:

- Bad or no thermal design... especially with computer parts
- Electrolytic caps
- Electrostatic damage
- Mechanical shock (not too normal)

Citing examples of consumer-grade electronics failing often negate 
the original assumption of properly and correctly designed with decent 
components.  Take a piece of aircraft avionics they live in a 
*horrible* environment with heat/cold/vibration/shock/corrosion and last 
literally for decades.  The failures are almost always mechanical, not 
electrical, and are due to the bad environment.

-Cory

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Re: Don't want to sound too alarmist but...

2007-05-22 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Mon, 21 May 2007, Tom C wrote:

 I find electronics stuff dies all the time.  I've had A Sharp camcorder and
 DVD player both work fine for years and then all of sudden fail one day,
 with no warning.

Most likely a mechanical failure in the camcorder, and either a 
mechanical failure or electronic overheating in the DVD player.  Properly 
designed solid-state electronics will last practically until the sun burns 
out (or the electrolytic caps fail).

-Cory

 In the case of AC appliances, if I was looking for an external cause I'd
 guess it was power surges.

 In the case of other items, I guess nothing lasts forever.

 Tom C.


 From: Godfrey DiGiorgi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: Re: Don't want to sound too alarmist but...
 Date: Mon, 21 May 2007 16:18:04 -0700


 On May 21, 2007, at 3:02 PM, Cotty wrote:

 The Canon lenses will still be working in 3 years - dunno about 6.
 Electronic AF and AE (and IS inside one lens) mean that there's a
 lot to
 go wrong. I suspect the electronics will die before anything else.

 Why would the electronics die unless you dunked them in water? I've
 got an electronic calculator here that's nearly 30 years old and
 still working perfectly.

 G

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Re: *ist DS AF speed

2007-05-15 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Tue, 15 May 2007, Patrice LACOUTURE (GMail) wrote:


 I think you'll find that if you continue to use your MZ-5 with NiMH
 batteries, the AF motor will self destruct pretty quickly. It wasn't
 designed to use batteries with that much current.
 I bet it runs really fast, but not for long.

 William Robb

 Hi William,

 What to you mean with, with that much current? The rated voltage for
 NiMH batteries is 1.2V each, instead of 1.5V, and unless their internal
 resistance is way lower than that of alkaline cells, they should provide
 less current. My experience with various equipment tends to second that.
 Or am I all wrong somewhere?

 I've been using my MZ5n flawlessly with NiMH for a few years now, maybe
 I'm just lucky. The AF in my previous MZ5 fried after a few years of
 moderate use, but I didn't use NiMH back then.

 Thanks and best regards

 Patrice

WR had a poor choice of words.  NiMH may say it's nominally 1.2V, 
but Alkaline is most certainly not 1.5V.  Alkaline drops its voltage a 
fair bit as it discharges and has a much higher internal resistance than 
NiMH.  The combination of the two mean that under a high load, they each 
put out about the same (1.2-ish).  The NiMH is more efficient there, and 
has more energy to boot.


-Cory

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Re: OT: rootbeer?

2007-05-09 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 9 May 2007, Paul Sorenson wrote:

 Growing hemp was encouraged during WWII to provide fiber for the
 manufacture of manilla rope.  At the edge of the small town where I grew
 up there was a mill where they processed the hemp fibers.  After the war
 the buildings were used for canning vegetables, but were referred to by
 the locals as the hemp mill well into the late 1950's.

 -p

We had ditch weed as they called it decide to start growing 
around our garage growing up in Iowa.  Tenacious stuff.  When we rented 
out the house for a year, the folks that lived there had the authorities 
come out, and they tried to kill with with all sorts of stuff they put 
around it.  The hemp *LOVED* it... mulitplied like madness and grow 
routinely up to 8-10' tall.

-Cory

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Re: OT: rootbeer?

2007-05-08 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Not as annoying as having to press 9 for english (typical in Quebec).

 I've run across some interesting IVR's in the US (English/French/Spanish
 in more than a few cases, for companies that deal with the US and Canada)

 -Adam

Sounds about right from the little bit of Eastern-Canadian I've 
been exposed to.

-Cory

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Re: Tech Question - how full can you fill hard drives?

2007-05-06 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sat, 5 May 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 I strongly suggest that you set up an administrator account that is
 separate from the user account that you do your work in, and remove
 system administration privileges from that user account. Even though
 it is a bit of an annoyance to have to login as administrator to
 install software, it's the correct way to run nearly any modern
 operating system (Windows XP, Mac OS X, Linux and UNIX ...)

 I set up every system Mac OS X I am contracted to work on this way.
 With very very few exceptions, it works exactly as it is supposed to.
 There are a couple of 'still not yet properly sorted' applications
 that require the user to have administrator privileges ... they
 should be avoided.

 Godfrey

Agreed.  It's unfortunate that Winders and some applications 
penalize a correct setup like that.  I rarely use Windows, but I've 
never come across the equivalent of the 'sudo' command under unix.  Very 
handy for running something as somebody else without having to log in as 
them.

-Cory

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Re: PEF or DNG

2007-05-06 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sat, 5 May 2007, Mark Cassino wrote:

 I usually shoot in DNG, mostly because I'm concerned about future
 compatibility.  In the future, who will keep writing software to convert
 old propriety RAW files? And with operating system changes etc, how long
 can you count on being able to run the software you currently use to
 process PEF's (or any other proprietary RAW file?)

All you need is a C-compiler...

http://cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/dcraw.c

Throw a copy of the code on your archive disks if you're worried 
about reading the PEFs in the future.

 The advantage of the PEF format is the compression, so you get more
 shots per card. I figure that it is easier to just shoot in DNG than to
 convert the PEF's after the fact. The exception would be when storage is
 at a premium - either because you want to minimize having to pause and
 change a card, or because you are limited in regards to the amount of
 storage on hand. So I may shoot PEFs while traveling or while shooting a
 critical event where changing a card could mean a lost opportunity - but
 I'll convert those files to DNG later.


 - MCC

I still cannot believe Pentax hasn't included DNG compression in 
the camera yet.  Does it use a more computationally expensive algorithm 
than what they're using for the PEFs?  I figured there'd be a firmware 
upgrade shortly after introduction, but so far no dice.  Weird.

-Cory


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Re: OT: rootbeer?

2007-05-06 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sun, 6 May 2007, P. J. Alling wrote:


 Natural root beer is banned by the FDA.  It's primary flavoring is
 Sassafras, (containing  safrole),which is a carcinogen.  I've made if
 using the original root but you can't buy it you'll have to collect yourself

I've wanted to try some *real* rootbeer like that just to see what 
it tastes like.  I looked into it a bit and got about that far.  It's 
carcinogenic if made from the real deal, right?

-Cory

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Re: OT: Card Reader for Linux

2007-05-04 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 4 May 2007, Brian Walters wrote:

 Hi Subash

 Thanks for that - I'm not in a hurry so I'd appreciate any futher details 
 when you have the time.

 Ubuntu picked up most of my peripherals automatically but not the reader.

 I thought about editing fstab but I'm a bit unsure of the correct syntax for 
 the reader.

 I have done a bit of Googling but there seems to be conflicting (and 
 sometimes incomprehensible) advice.  Some readers get recognised on boot 
 up but some don't.  I'm not adverse to the command line or editing 
 config files but I think some of the advice is written in Klingon


I've got a multi-card reader (Using Centos-4, a clone of Redhat 
Enterprise 4).  It wouldn't see anything other than the CF slot until I 
added the following lines to /etc/modprobe.conf:

options scsi_mod max_luns=8

Apparently, the multi-card readers look like multiple SCSI LUNs... 
but not many other SCSI things do... thus the default to only scan one 
LUN.

Some parsing of 'dmesg' or /var/log/messages might be in order to 
fully figure it out.

-Cory

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Re: How do you guys do panoramas anyway?

2007-05-04 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Fri, 4 May 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

snip and agree with what everyone else said


 ==
 Will do. And thanks, William, Maris,  and Mark.

 The scenes I showed, there was more, obviously. It would  probably make a
 good 90 degree pano, and maybe I could have done that one  handheld.

 However, Scott Valley, where my Dad grew up and where I visited  last
 October, would make a great pano. And I could almost do a 360 degree one  
 there, at
 least a 180 degree. It's a very simple scene, cattle ranches and alpha  fields
 with a few scattered barns, but it is all flat and completely surrounded  by
 mountains. So it is much more impressive than a single shot can show and it
 would be ideal for a pano.

 I tried last year (handheld), but didn't know  what I was doing and there no
 way it can be stitched together.

 I didn't  do the manual exposure thing, and now that you have all mentioned
 it, it makes  perfect sense. One slight shift in color/exposure and the whole
 thing is shot. I  also didn't overlap enough.

 But I am planning to visit again next  August/Sept and would like to try to
 get it.

 Will visit Mark's site and  print out your posts.

 Thanks, Marnie aka Doe  :-)


I've been very successful doing panos with as little as 10-20% 
overlap.  The *biggest* thing IMO is what's been mentioned that holding 
the exposure identical is really important.  Getting different contrast 
due to flare with varying light is also somewhat important if the sun's 
anywhere near.

As far as software, I have no idea how the commerical offerings 
for Winders/MacOS work, but I do know that a lot of the open-source stuff 
I use is available for Winders.  The main engine is PanoTools, of course, 
but the GUI frontend I use is called 'hugin'.  It has a built-in error 
minimization optimization engine to automatically determine lens 
correction factors, differences in camera tilt, etc.  Way cool.

For me, here's the order ofoperations.

- Set camera to RAW... with the amount of fiddling required for panos, I 
doubt ANYONE (with the exception of a few insane zealouts like Kenny-boy 
Rockwell) could argue that the flexibility won't be worth it.
- Tripod (relatively level) is a good idea.
- Do test shots for exposure at all prospective angles about the intended 
pano.  Make sure the highlights don't blow out anywhere, and set the 
exposure to manual.
- Shoot all frames, with at least 10-20% overlap.
- Convert RAW to deep-color TIFF with identical WB and EV comp settings.
- Use 'autopano-sift' to try to automatically generate the alignment 
points.
- Review points with 'hugin' program... add horizontal and/or vertical 
points to ensure straight horizon/vertical objects.
- Use the optimization to improve draft and iterate 
modifying/adding/removing  some of the alignment points if necessary
- Generate output projection images (or multilayer image)
- Blend together with 'enblend'
- Fine-tune final image (rubber-stamp dust, watermark, etc).

-Cory

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Re: Firmware 1.10

2007-05-02 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 If that were true, then TTL metering in the general case wouldn't
 work consistently for different lenses in any exposure mode at
 different lens openings.

When lenses are wide open, it's less of a point source though, 
right?

 Consider the SLR focusing screen as a rear projection screen, with
 the illumination source being the lens. Its built-in fresnel lens
 collimates what would otherwise be relatively simple hemispherical
 scatter, to first order approximation, and directs it towards the
 ocular.

 The metering sensors are designed to read light intensity from that
 scattering rear projection surface, they don't intercept the light
 directly from the lens. The scatter induced by the screen's matte
 focusing surface ameliorates the variations from that would otherwise
 be seen with a clear screen.

 (When special purpose near-clear and clear screens were available in
 the past for cameras like the Nikon F series, charts regarding TTL
 metering errors, both for total ambient curve and for focal length
 adjustments, were included. Most of the time, they recommended not
 using the TTL metering due to variabilities like this..)

 Godfrey

In any even, I'm talking out my ass... I don't know much about 
optical lens design.  I could also be confusing the metering inaccuracy 
I've seen with my *ist-DS with the 3rd-party, split-prism focus screen.  I 
don't recall if I had issues with metering inaccuracy with K/M lenses and 
the stock screen... been too long since I used it.

-Cory

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Re: Firmware 1.10

2007-05-01 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 It's odd that you would see this pattern when using Takumars
 (presumably M42 screw mount?) stopped down in Av mode. The camera
 body knows nothing at all of the lens opening in those cases and
 should be responding to the light as if the lens were wide open. At
 least in the green-button stop-down mode case, the body has stopped
 the lens down from wide open to working aperture so there's something
 going on there that could account for it.

 Some folks have told me that replacing the focusing screen with a
 Pentax *ist DS focusing screen solved the problem. I might give that
 a try when I get a moment. I tried switching my custom Katz Eye
 screen from the DS into the K10D but found consistent underexposure
 with FA/DA lenses so that wasn't useful to me, but perhaps the Pentax
 DS screen will act differently.

 Godfrey

I've reported making it worse.  Of course the split-prism adds a 
whole other variable at small apertures.  Perhaps the angle of light going 
throught the stock screen doesn't couple properly to light meter sensors?

Bottom line of course is that stop-down metering sucks.

-Cory

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Re: Spotmatic - focusing

2007-05-01 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 I never liked microprism focusing aids very much. The Pentax
 Spotmatic had a good viewfinder, regardless, although not quite as
 good as the Nikon F I bought in 1969, which had a type A screen as
 standard (plain matte fresnel with central split-image) and replaced
 it with an E screen almost immediately (plain matte fresnel with
 'thirds' horizontal/vertical reference scribings). That remains my
 favorite focusing surface today.

I never liked them until I got some fast glass.  For anything 
slower than 2.8 or so, they're not much use as they *always* seem somewhat 
dark.  YMMV

-Cory

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Re: Firmware 1.10

2007-05-01 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 My Katz Eye screen is a plain matte fresnel surface without metering
 aids, a custom design for scribed lines.

 Yes, I talked with Rachel Katz about the problem I was seeing at
 length. Her take on it is that Pentax reshaped the scatter of the
 screen for the K10D model to provide more brightness at the ocular,
 which has the effect of reducing the amount of light at the metering
 sensors. So they use a different calibration curve for the sensors,
 based on the notion of less light going their way compared to the DS,
 to give accurate metering.

 I conjecture that there's an error in the calibration curve used when
 the camera is in the green-button stop-down metering mode. The
 progression of error as the aperture deviates from wide open is
 regular and it seems to me that the problem is an incorrect
 multiplier or lookup table.

 Godfrey

... or just a variation in the lens?  Doesn't the angle of light 
coming in depend on not only the aperture, but also the design of the 
lens?  As such, it's probably only possible to do an average correction.

-Cory

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Re: Question : Converting a Automatic Aperture M42 lens to manual aperture?

2007-04-28 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007, J. C. O'Connell wrote:

 I have several Automatic aperture M42
 lenses that are Automatic aperture mode
 only ( they dont have auto/manual mode
 switches ). Anybody know of a way to
 keep the rear pin depressed without
 destroying or damaging these lenses?
 ( no superglue or bending pins, etc).

 I want to try/test them on istDS
 with PK adapter but cant if I cant stop them down
 some way but I dont want to deface
 or permanently modify these lenses
 as they are too valuable to do that
 at this point. I'm just wondering if
 there is some simple trick to doing
 this that hasnt occured to me yet.
 jco

Depending on the lens, it may not be too difficult to remove the 
rear of the lens and figure a way to permanently (and removably) keep it 
depressed.

-Cory

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Re: Making a small DNG or RAW file

2007-04-26 Thread Cory Papenfuss
On Wed, 25 Apr 2007, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 Perhaps I wasn't clear.  What I want(ed) to know was if there is some way
 to generate a true raw file, in either a  format like PEF or DNG either
 directly from the camera or by resizing the file in some editing software
 (without changing to TIFF or JPEG or any other such format) to make it
 physically smaller, both in dimension and size.  As I said, I'm pretty sure
 I know the answer to that question (No), but I had to ask.  Adam mentioned
 it can be done with one of the Canon models.  It would be great if there
 could be a 900 x 600 RAW file could be generated  so it could easily be
 posted to a web page and people could work on it as some here do with JPEGs
 (often with the comment that there's not much more they can do because it's
 not a RAW file).


As someone mentioned, if you resize it it's no longer a RAW file 
as it didn't come from the camera.  If you want something smaller, try 
using the losslessly-compressed version and take a picture that has no 
significant information... like a white piece of paper.  Those types of 
shots compress very well and depending on how smart the algorithms are it 
could reduce the size a lot.

-Cory

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Re: newbie question on aperatures

2007-04-25 Thread Cory Papenfuss

 From: eric [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2007/04/25 Wed AM 04:41:53 GMT
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Subject: newbie question on aperatures

 Been looking at some wide angle lenses for my DL, and been noticing that
 while any truly wide angle lense is awfully expensive (yeah, I know,
 photography is an expensive hobby), the ones with big aperatures are
 noticeably cheaper than those with small aperatures, numerically
 speaking (i.e a 1:2.8 is more than one with 1:3.5).

 Suprisingly, the Zenitar 16mm/f2.8 is one of the cheapest lenses 
 available and is also very good.  You just need to be aware that 
 individual samples can vary in quality, so you need to buy one that you 
 can try first or go to a decent dealer.  On 35mm, it's a fisheye but 
 this is reduced noticably when used on a DSLR.  It's a manual focus, 
 non-A lens, so you need to set the custom function allowing use of the 
 aperture ring, use M mode and press the +/- button before each shot.

You beat me to it... I was going to recommend this lens as well. 
Not very fishy (I use it as a regular lens when I need something 
faster/wider/sharper than the kit zoom).


 I know the aperature controls how much light enters the lens (along with
 shutter speed), and a smaller aperature number means more light can
 enter.  Other than making it easier to get an in-focus picture while
 hand holding the camera, what other reason would I want to get a smaller
 number aperature?  Considering 90%+ of my photography is done of
 non-moving subjects, and using a tripod, can I compensate with a slower
 shutter speed, or longer exposures?


So long as your subject isn't moving, faster lenses (i.e. smaller 
aperture numbers) aren't necessary if you can compensate in other ways 
like you mentioned (slower shutter speeds, higher ISO, etc).  As someone 
mentioned, faster lenses are typically the higher-end models and are 
often better quality... although not necessarily.  The two big reasons why 
one might get a slower lens are cost and weight... slower lenses can be 
physically smaller and thus lighter.

Most arguments favor faster lenses... more opportunities.

-Cory

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Re: What the Hell? [was... Re: PDML.....R. I. P.]

2007-04-23 Thread Cory Papenfuss
 Did you guys have a good flame war and I missed it?

 Darn!

 Made what we used to get into look like a 60 style love in, complete with
 the sitars and hookas.
 Or so I've been told..

 William Robb

Hookas and bell-bottoms are retro now... didn't you know?

-Cory

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