Re: [RBW] Re: Retro Rear Der

2011-04-07 Thread Ken Freeman
Not to derail the happy debate, but to the OP: have you considered a Huret
Duopar or EcoDuopar?

On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 4:05 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I agree about the 70 SunTours (VGT and the Luxe versions...great
 stuff), however, the Shimano Crane is IMO a great derailleur as well.
 Mine has lasted a little longer than yours...I think it's going on 40
 years. Just got back from an hour ride and didn't miss a shift.

 http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2464/3906172556_10d65013f0_z.jpg

 On Apr 6, 12:56 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  You should have tried one in 1974.  They were just so far ahead of
  everything else it was astonishing.  And they were cheap.  Dirt cheap.
  Five bucks a copy cheap.  Better by a long way than Shimano's Crane and
  Titlist, in my personal experience on my own P15 Paramount - lasted much
  longer (the Titlist got wobbly in the pivots in 1 year, the VGT lasted
  15 years) too.  And light years better that Campagnolo's attempts at a
  touring derailleur at far less cost (and in the case of Campagnolo's
  first attempt, far less weight as well).

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread scott
My bikes always have, at a minimum, a layer of dust on
them.  Two of my three bikes (not my Rivendell) have mismatched tires
or wheels.  And I don't even want to mention the torn bar tape. 

All bikes should look this way! A lubed chain keeps a bike happy, the
rest is vanity. Oops, did I say that out loud?

On Apr 6, 5:31 pm, Frank Quan jfq...@gmail.com wrote:
 After reading Grant's article, I feel better about myself.  I was
 feeling little guilty after visiting website after website with
 pictures of clean shiny bikes with Carradice bags, Nitto racks, Honjo
 fenders, etc.  My bikes always have, at a minimum, a layer of dust on
 them.  Two of my three bikes (not my Rivendell) have mismatched tires
 or wheels.  And I don't even want to mention the torn bar tape.

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[RBW] WTB: Pacenti Quasi motos or Neomoto's

2011-04-07 Thread hobie
Does anyone have a pair of Pacenti 2.0 Quasi Motos they are not using
and would like to sell?  A pair of Neomoto 2.1's will also do. Thanks
have a good  one

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[RBW] Re: 2011 Bombadil Revealed!

2011-04-07 Thread Mike
Beautiful bike Marty. Really looking forward to pictures of the
complete build. Seems to have arrived just in time for spring.

--mike

On Apr 5, 4:54 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 Perfection!

 http://tinyurl.com/32z9k4l

 I even included a video in the set to capture the beauty of the beast.
 Thanks to everyone at Rivendell for delivering a masterpiece. Build
 will begin soon, but I need to catch my breath.

 Marty

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[RBW] Schwalbe Dureme

2011-04-07 Thread Mike
So not only am I a bet of a bagaholic but I've also got a problem with
tires. I see Riv has the Duremes in stock. Who's riding them? How do
you like them? I see they're stocking the 700x50 size which seems
perfect for Hunqapillars. I'm sort of considering the 40s for my
Hilsen. The Duremes seem like a nice all-rounder tire and like they
might roll a bit more smoothly than the standard Marathons. Anyone out
there have any experience with them?

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme

2011-04-07 Thread William
My experience with them is that I've been checking the Riv site for
the last several months waiting for them to be in stock.  I'm eager to
try them too!  40's or 50's for my Hillborne?  I'm leaning towards the
40s.

On Apr 7, 6:31 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 So not only am I a bet of a bagaholic but I've also got a problem with
 tires. I see Riv has the Duremes in stock. Who's riding them? How do
 you like them? I see they're stocking the 700x50 size which seems
 perfect for Hunqapillars. I'm sort of considering the 40s for my
 Hilsen. The Duremes seem like a nice all-rounder tire and like they
 might roll a bit more smoothly than the standard Marathons. Anyone out
 there have any experience with them?

 --mike

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme

2011-04-07 Thread jandrews_nyc
I'd love to try the 50's on my Hillborne...but am unsure if they'll
fit.  Does anyone know?
The Supreme 50's measured closer to 45mm...on a Synergy rim..so I'm
wondering if it's the same with the Duremes?

Can anyone speak to their ride quality?  Are they more supple than
Marathon's?  Good for road and off road?

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Beth H
On Apr 7, 4:43 am, scott clankbonesh...@gmail.com wrote:
 My bikes always have, at a minimum, a layer of dust on
 them.  

Uh-oh. Are they being ridden enough?
..::grin::..

Most of my beausage happens when I grow attached to a particular
component or accessory on my bike and I take measures to repair it so
it will last a bit longer:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/4537083634/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/4537083062/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/3395455232/

Other times it happens because I've effected a decidedly homemade/
funky solution to a particular problem (like this improvised bashguard
for my rear generator light):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5374286904/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5593507733/

The rest is simply from the natural wear and tear of daily riding.
On the rare days when I am able to simply sit for a few minutes and
just stare at my bike -- you know those days, right? -- I can see the
wear marks in the paint job and note where the cable housing rubs, or
where my U-lock has nicked the paint too many times. That kind of
beausage is my favorite kind because it tells how much I've ridden.
Since switching from my Longlow to my All-Rounder as my daily city
bike, the wear-and-tear factor has grown on the latter in a way that
makes me smile.

Beth

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Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Just for the record: my interest in the text and my reason for
referring to it was not the writing style but the message: don't
obsess over the looks of your bikes, they are meant for riding, though
riding has no quarrel with looks.

I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Wingnuts

2011-04-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
That would make a very good option, but my experience from those
wrenches as a boy back in the early '70s led me to think they will
break at that very important time on the road when you need to fix a
flat -- my old ones often did. Is the Riv-supplied one (I have one of
those) sturdy enough for repeated track nut torque?

This is what I use.

On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 2:10 PM, mike mike.rosen...@gmail.com wrote:
 I use one of those dumbell wrenches from Riv.  It fits well in the
 tool bag and doesn't have sharp bits to catch on things.

 I was tempted by the VO wing nuts, but the price slowed me down enough
 to miss them completely.  Probably just as well.

 On Apr 6, 10:05 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 What I really want is a QR on the rear but my two hubs (each for its
 own reason) does not work with a QR, and I thought that wingnuts might
 just be easier to use than a shortened 15 mm box end wrench. The VO's
 do look rather nice, tho', IMO.


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-- 
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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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attachment: 15 mm box.jpg

[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Scott G.


On Apr 7, 11:53 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Now I do live in a
 dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
 careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
 fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

I live in a wetter climate and ride GB tires, so less time fixing
flats. ;-)
washing is bike inspection time, like the cracked TA crank arm or
the nearly worn thru straddle cable.

How to quickly wash your bike.
http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/10/the-art-of-the-bike-wash.html

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme

2011-04-07 Thread William
jandrews

For commentary on their ride quality I'd talk to Jay at Rivendell.
Regarding the 40s vs the 50s, here is my thought process.  Riv says
the 40s measure a true 38.89.  So if the 50s are really 10mm wider,
that's basically 49mm wide.  I took the calipers to my 56cm Hillborne
this morning.  At the fork blades and the seatstays there's plenty of
room.  It's the chainstays where it gets a little cozy.  I measured
54mm.  So maybe 2-2.5mm of clearance on either side.  That would work
awesome as a baloon tire road bike or for dry trails.  But if you
tried to mud it up at all, or if you are looking to squeeze fenders
around those 50s, it's my opinion that it'll be too tight.  If the
tires were $40 apiece, I'd buy a set of each for my Hillborne, but at
$72 a tire, I'm going to try the 40s first.  The trails over the hill
from my home in Wildcat Canyon are still pretty muddy, but I want to
get an off-road route to my office established by summertime.  Once
things dry out more, I might go back for a pair of 50s as well.

Bill

On Apr 7, 7:00 am, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'd love to try the 50's on my Hillborne...but am unsure if they'll
 fit.  Does anyone know?
 The Supreme 50's measured closer to 45mm...on a Synergy rim..so I'm
 wondering if it's the same with the Duremes?

 Can anyone speak to their ride quality?  Are they more supple than
 Marathon's?  Good for road and off road?

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Rick
I confess to admiring some of the purty show bikes from NAHBS,
regularly visit the current classics section on cyclofiend's site, and
admire the looks of my Rivs quite a bit, but I just don't have it in
me to keep my bikes presentation-quality.

Last time I tried to get the Atlantis seriously clean, my five-year
old released our golden retrievers, and in the resulting melee my rear
derailer hanger got bent.  I took that as a sign, and washed the dogs
instead.

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[RBW] Re: VO Wingnuts

2011-04-07 Thread Jim Cloud
I don't think that wingnuts are very practical on a modern bike.  They
may, however, be suitable for a bike that's being restored with some
bling.  I recently saw a bike, at a LBS, that was in the restoration
process.  It was an older Carlton made Raleigh that the owner had
painted (and pin striped himself).  He had a parts assemblage that
included a beautiful Chater-Lea crank and Normandy hubs with
wingnuts.  Everything very shiny and sparkling.  I thought the
wingnuts looked very appropriate for this nifty bike.  (The bike was
being set-up as a single speed).

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Apr 5, 3:49 pm, Amit Singh asd...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-stainless-wingnuts.html

 Retro-Grouch-ish or Fetish-ism?  :)

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[RBW] Re: Retro Rear Der

2011-04-07 Thread William
Speaking of derailing (teehee)if the OP is still a list member who
is asking for a derailer recommendation for a Bombadil, then I'd
disagree with all of these vintage 5/6 speed derailers.  I am totally
convinced that a deerhead XT or a Duopar, or a Rally might work
perfectly for those of you who are lauding their attributes.  But I
think that in part has to do with your using them on a 120mm rear end
with a 5 speed freewheel.  If the OP is building a Bombadil, he's got
a 135mm rear end.  If he's using a current Phil Freewheel hub, then
he's going to have room for a 7-speed freewheel.  Will any of those
vintage derailers have the range of motion to even cover a 7-speed
freewheel?  Will they do it well?  Even if he uses an old 5-speed
freewheel or a 6-speed freewheel, will he have to use spacers to move
the freewheel outboard to even work with the range limits of these
derailers from the 1970's or 1980's?  Is it really worth the effort?

The rear derailer that I know will work beautifully is the couple year
old Shimano Deore XT M760.  It's not the least bit retro, so if a
particular old-school look is what the OP is after, this derailer
fails at that.  If instead, he wants impeccably reliable shifting in
friction mode, that derailer is unsurpassed in my opinion.  You can
find them new on closeout for $60.  Buy two or three of them and never
worry about a rear derailer for your Bombadil for the rest of your
life.  I've stocked up on the GS cage and the SGS cage of that
derailer.  The main attributes to me are:  it shifts perfectly, it's
available for less than retail in new condition, parts are still
readily available for it, it still has an adjuster barrel.


On Apr 7, 2:57 am, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:
 Not to derail the happy debate, but to the OP: have you considered a Huret
 Duopar or EcoDuopar?









 On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 4:05 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:
  I agree about the 70 SunTours (VGT and the Luxe versions...great
  stuff), however, the Shimano Crane is IMO a great derailleur as well.
  Mine has lasted a little longer than yours...I think it's going on 40
  years. Just got back from an hour ride and didn't miss a shift.

 http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2464/3906172556_10d65013f0_z.jpg

  On Apr 6, 12:56 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
   You should have tried one in 1974.  They were just so far ahead of
   everything else it was astonishing.  And they were cheap.  Dirt cheap.
   Five bucks a copy cheap.  Better by a long way than Shimano's Crane and
   Titlist, in my personal experience on my own P15 Paramount - lasted much
   longer (the Titlist got wobbly in the pivots in 1 year, the VGT lasted
   15 years) too.  And light years better that Campagnolo's attempts at a
   touring derailleur at far less cost (and in the case of Campagnolo's
   first attempt, far less weight as well).

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 Ann Arbor, MI USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Wingnuts

2011-04-07 Thread Tim McNamara
I have a Surly Jethro Tool for those nuts- solid, high quality steel.  It's 
intended to be stepped on if necessary to break loose or tighten the nut.  I've 
never found it necessary.


On Apr 7, 2011, at 11:11 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

 That would make a very good option, but my experience from those
 wrenches as a boy back in the early '70s led me to think they will
 break at that very important time on the road when you need to fix a
 flat -- my old ones often did. Is the Riv-supplied one (I have one of
 those) sturdy enough for repeated track nut torque?
 
 This is what I use.
 
 On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 2:10 PM, mike mike.rosen...@gmail.com wrote:
 I use one of those dumbell wrenches from Riv.  It fits well in the
 tool bag and doesn't have sharp bits to catch on things.
 
 I was tempted by the VO wing nuts, but the price slowed me down enough
 to miss them completely.  Probably just as well.
 
 On Apr 6, 10:05 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 What I really want is a QR on the rear but my two hubs (each for its
 own reason) does not work with a QR, and I thought that wingnuts might
 just be easier to use than a shortened 15 mm box end wrench. The VO's
 do look rather nice, tho', IMO.
 
 
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 -- 
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: VO Wingnuts

2011-04-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Thanks; that is a useful piece of information for the future. If only
it had something more useful than a bottle opener on the other end.

On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 11:16 AM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 I have a Surly Jethro Tool for those nuts- solid, high quality steel.  It's 
 intended to be stepped on if necessary to break loose or tighten the nut.  
 I've never found it necessary.


 On Apr 7, 2011, at 11:11 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

 That would make a very good option, but my experience from those
 wrenches as a boy back in the early '70s led me to think they will
 break at that very important time on the road when you need to fix a
 flat -- my old ones often did. Is the Riv-supplied one (I have one of
 those) sturdy enough for repeated track nut torque?

 This is what I use.

 On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 2:10 PM, mike mike.rosen...@gmail.com wrote:
 I use one of those dumbell wrenches from Riv.  It fits well in the
 tool bag and doesn't have sharp bits to catch on things.

 I was tempted by the VO wing nuts, but the price slowed me down enough
 to miss them completely.  Probably just as well.

 On Apr 6, 10:05 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 What I really want is a QR on the rear but my two hubs (each for its
 own reason) does not work with a QR, and I thought that wingnuts might
 just be easier to use than a shortened 15 mm box end wrench. The VO's
 do look rather nice, tho', IMO.


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 --
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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread CycloFiend
on 4/7/11 8:53 AM, PATRICK MOORE at bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Just for the record: my interest in the text and my reason for
 referring to it was not the writing style but the message: don't
 obsess over the looks of your bikes, they are meant for riding, though
 riding has no quarrel with looks.
 
 I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
 floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
 spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
 dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
 careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
 fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

The other thing that happens is that when I actually wrangle my sloth and
clean the bike, I end up wanting to document that.  So, I end up with images
from the squeaky clean end o' the spectrum.  A place just north of
Brigadoon.

Dirty bikes. Clean drivetrains.

Each bicycle increases exponentially the possibility that none of them will
work properly.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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[RBW] Re: Retro Rear Der

2011-04-07 Thread William
I'm totally with you on the cheap part.  The cheapskate in me hates
buying something that doesn't work at all.  I bought an early 90's XC
pro front and rear derailer, only to find that I couldn't make it take
a 32 tooth cog.  It was only $40 that I spent on F+R, but I'm such a
cheapskate that $40 wasted drives me crazy.  $60 is more than $20
that's for sure, but knowing that my stock of that derailer will work
on EVERY bike in the stable is pretty useful.  I use the M760 with
suntour retro-friction on 3 bikes and with indexed barcons on my
tandem.  It frankly works better in friction than in index, but on the
tandem its hard to hear the need to trim.  I'm trying to train my
stoker to do that for me, but it's a work in progress.  Rapid rise is
a new thing to me, too, and I was skeptical that it would make any
difference to me, but my Hilsen with Suntour downtube shifters and
rapid rise M760 GS rear derailer is without question the best shifting
bike I've owned.  I would not pay $120 retail for a new XT derailer,
but $60 for a new three-year-old version was an investment that I was
willing to make.

On Apr 7, 10:39 am, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 William,

 So i use my Suntour XC pro on my Hillborne (135mm PW free wheel, but
 only 6 speed).  I have an early 90's XT (the pewter painted one, not
 the black plastic one) on my cruiser and that's a 130mm 7 speed
 cassette.  my bridgestone uses a road-der (not labeled, it's silver),
 and that's a 126mm 6-speed.

 all are friction shifting and i don't have any range issues, i think
 if you are sticking to 7 or below you're fine with these older ones,
 if you're at 8 or above then i'd get a late 90's vintage r der.

 For me it's partly i like the old stuff, but also i'm cheap, i'd
 rather pay 20-30 for a beat-up r-der from the early 90's then a new
 modern one. also all the new rapid rise, etc stuff is un-needed when
 all i use them for is friction shifting.

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread William
What if something is both beautiful and kludgy?  Is it beauludgy?
Barf

On Apr 7, 10:34 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 4/7/11 8:53 AM, PATRICK MOORE at bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

  Just for the record: my interest in the text and my reason for
  referring to it was not the writing style but the message: don't
  obsess over the looks of your bikes, they are meant for riding, though
  riding has no quarrel with looks.

  I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
  floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
  spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
  dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
  careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
  fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

 The other thing that happens is that when I actually wrangle my sloth and
 clean the bike, I end up wanting to document that.  So, I end up with images
 from the squeaky clean end o' the spectrum.  A place just north of
 Brigadoon.

 Dirty bikes. Clean drivetrains.

 Each bicycle increases exponentially the possibility that none of them will
 work properly.

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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Re: [RBW] Re: Retro Rear Der

2011-04-07 Thread Tim McNamara
That said, I have SunTour Cyclone Superbe Pro rear derailleurs on both my A/R 
(135 mm, 12-24 7 speed f/w) and my Ritchey road bike (130 mm, 12-28 8 speed).  
Both function without a hiccup (friction downtube shifting in both cases).


On Apr 7, 2011, at 12:39 PM, Minh wrote:

 So i use my Suntour XC pro on my Hillborne (135mm PW free wheel, but
 only 6 speed).  I have an early 90's XT (the pewter painted one, not
 the black plastic one) on my cruiser and that's a 130mm 7 speed
 cassette.  my bridgestone uses a road-der (not labeled, it's silver),
 and that's a 126mm 6-speed.
 
 all are friction shifting and i don't have any range issues, i think
 if you are sticking to 7 or below you're fine with these older ones,
 if you're at 8 or above then i'd get a late 90's vintage r der.
 
 For me it's partly i like the old stuff, but also i'm cheap, i'd
 rather pay 20-30 for a beat-up r-der from the early 90's then a new
 modern one. also all the new rapid rise, etc stuff is un-needed when
 all i use them for is friction shifting.

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme

2011-04-07 Thread Mike
40's seem like they'd be fine for most off road riding on a Hillborne
or Hilsen. I guess if you need a bigger tire than that you probably
need a different bike. I do wish they were a bit cheaper.

--mike-

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread doug peterson
My Atlantis only gets cleaned a few times a year, usually after a tour
as part of the re-assembly process.  It looks so nice all
shiny'n'spiffy, before I start hanging racks'n'packs back on, I keep
telling myself gotta take a good picture for cyclofiend's Atlantis
site.  Been working on that for a few years now; I may get it
together some day.

dougP

On Apr 7, 8:53 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just for the record: my interest in the text and my reason for
 referring to it was not the writing style but the message: don't
 obsess over the looks of your bikes, they are meant for riding, though
 riding has no quarrel with looks.

 I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
 floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
 spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
 dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
 careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
 fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Lynne Fitz
What the Bleriot has been known to look like:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/2134762170/

After THAT ride, it took a fair amount of fortitude to clean it up...

On Apr 6, 3:31 pm, Frank Quan jfq...@gmail.com wrote:
 After reading Grant's article, I feel better about myself.  I was
 feeling little guilty after visiting website after website with
 pictures of clean shiny bikes with Carradice bags, Nitto racks, Honjo
 fenders, etc.  My bikes always have, at a minimum, a layer of dust on
 them.  Two of my three bikes (not my Rivendell) have mismatched tires
 or wheels.  And I don't even want to mention the torn bar tape.

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Mojo

 I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
 floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
 spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
 dry climate...

Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
to clean my bikes. But they still look like this
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
as on my ride today 7April.

Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
But thats a different topic.

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread William
Love the copper Legolas!  Next color choice I have on a bike, I must
consider copper.

On Apr 7, 2:13 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
  I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
  floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
  spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
  dry climate...

 Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
 as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
 spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
 non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
 to clean my bikes. But they still look like 
 thishttp://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
 as on my ride today 7April.

 Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
 time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
 But thats a different topic.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Eric Norris
I often hear comments about how clean my bikes are, usually given in a tone 
that suggests that I need serious therapy to deal with whatever issues I have 
...

That being said, I agree with Mojo that it's not really that hard to keep a 
bike clean. I wash my bikes with hot soapy water if they get really dirty, a 
process that takes 15-20 minutes. After a ride on a dry day, I'll use a little 
detailing spray and a soft cloth on the tubes and call it good. The key for me 
is to not let the dirt accumulate to the point where you're dealing with caked 
on grease and grime.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Apr 7, 2011, at 2:13 PM, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
 floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
 spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
 dry climate...
 
 Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
 as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
 spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
 non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
 to clean my bikes. But they still look like this
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
 as on my ride today 7April.
 
 Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
 time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
 But thats a different topic.
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread palincss

Quoting Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com:

I often hear comments about how clean my bikes are, usually given in  
 a tone that suggests that I need serious therapy to deal with   
whatever issues I have ...


That being said, I agree with Mojo that it's not really that hard to  
 keep a bike clean. I wash my bikes with hot soapy water if they get  
 really dirty, a process that takes 15-20 minutes.


And once it's clean, /that/ is the time to take pictures.  Not before  
you clean it up.  Not when it's dirty.




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[RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread Aaron Thomas
I wish the Riv/Soma frame didn't have Riv's new signature kickstand plate. 
I recall seeing a photo of someone's Hilsen (maybe Cyclofiend's?) that had 
been CX-raced in the mud. And the kickstand plate acted as a mud shelf, 
piling it up high behind the seat tube.

The kickstand plate seems to limit the versatility of the frame, without 
really giving you any significant benefits. After all, you can always add a 
kickstand to a frame without a plate. But you can't take a plate off a frame 
without labors that would require a re-paint. Other than convenience for 
those who use kickstands, what's to be gained by having the built-in plate? 
I just don't get it.

I've often been tempted by the Hillborne, but I balk because of that darned 
kickstand plate, which is entirely useless to me, and would likely only be a 
liability given the sometimes-mucky off-roading I'd want to do on it.

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[RBW] FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread Anne
2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over

This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.

From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
of the frame design.”

Dura-Ace seatpost
Dura-Ace brakes
Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
12-26 cassette
Cane Creek headset
Ritchey Comp stem
Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
24/32h
Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
Alpha Q EX fork
WTB Pure V saddle

$1,750 + shipping and insurance

Link to pics on photobucket:
http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o

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Re: [RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2011-04-07 at 15:08 -0700, Aaron Thomas wrote:
 
 The kickstand plate seems to limit the versatility of the frame,
 without really giving you any significant benefits. After all, you can
 always add a kickstand to a frame without a plate.

Yes, sure, if you're willing to risk the chance of crushing or crimping
the chain stays when you bolt the kickstand on.  I've seen more than one
bike damaged that way.  No chance of doing that with a chainstay
plate.  

Other than cyclocross, which I would rather be flayed and have my flesh
salted than consider, what other possible bicycling activity could be
hampered or harmed by the presence of a kickstand plate?  

I have two Kogswell P/Rs.  One is set up as a porteur, and it has a
double-legged kickstand, bolted to the kickstand plate.  The other is my
touring bike (and used to be my commuter).  It has no kickstand, but it
does have a kickstand plate.  I've used that second P/R for every type
of riding I do, with and without a touring load, including riding on
gravel roads, and have never had one moment's inconvenience from the
kickstand plate.




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Re: [RBW] FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread andrew hill
Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email list? 
 That's a bold move.  ;)



On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:

 2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over
 
 This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
 custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
 to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.
 
 From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
 slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
 goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
 that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
 bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
 care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
 of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
 achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
 of the frame design.”
 
 Dura-Ace seatpost
 Dura-Ace brakes
 Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
 Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
 Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
 Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
 12-26 cassette
 Cane Creek headset
 Ritchey Comp stem
 Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
 Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
 24/32h
 Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
 Alpha Q EX fork
 WTB Pure V saddle
 
 $1,750 + shipping and insurance
 
 Link to pics on photobucket:
 http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o
 
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[RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread William
If you are in the market for a $1000 range cyclocross frameset with
optimal mud clearance, I agree that the Soma San Marcos is not your
best choice.  Nor is the Hillborne.

On Apr 7, 3:08 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:
 I wish the Riv/Soma frame didn't have Riv's new signature kickstand plate.
 I recall seeing a photo of someone's Hilsen (maybe Cyclofiend's?) that had
 been CX-raced in the mud. And the kickstand plate acted as a mud shelf,
 piling it up high behind the seat tube.

 The kickstand plate seems to limit the versatility of the frame, without
 really giving you any significant benefits. After all, you can always add a
 kickstand to a frame without a plate. But you can't take a plate off a frame
 without labors that would require a re-paint. Other than convenience for
 those who use kickstands, what's to be gained by having the built-in plate?
 I just don't get it.

 I've often been tempted by the Hillborne, but I balk because of that darned
 kickstand plate, which is entirely useless to me, and would likely only be a
 liability given the sometimes-mucky off-roading I'd want to do on it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
It is metaphysically (literally) impossible for something to be kludgy
in the sense of badly designed and to be at the same time and in the
same respect beautiful, since beauty implies order and harmony among
the parts -- ie, that is part of what it is to be beautiful, at least
in composite things. Ens et bonum et unum et pulchritudinem sunt unum
in re.


On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 11:54 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 What if something is both beautiful and kludgy?  Is it beauludgy?
 Barf

 On Apr 7, 10:34 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 4/7/11 8:53 AM, PATRICK MOORE at bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

  Just for the record: my interest in the text and my reason for
  referring to it was not the writing style but the message: don't
  obsess over the looks of your bikes, they are meant for riding, though
  riding has no quarrel with looks.

  I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
  floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
  spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
  dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
  careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
  fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

 The other thing that happens is that when I actually wrangle my sloth and
 clean the bike, I end up wanting to document that.  So, I end up with images
 from the squeaky clean end o' the spectrum.  A place just north of
 Brigadoon.

 Dirty bikes. Clean drivetrains.

 Each bicycle increases exponentially the possibility that none of them will
 work properly.

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I know, I was just kidding -- I can clean a bike in about five
minutes, with soap and hose (chain and lubing take a bit longer). I
too clean mine after being caught in a shower, but that is rather rare
out here.

On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 3:13 PM, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
 floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
 spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
 dry climate...

 Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
 as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
 spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
 non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
 to clean my bikes. But they still look like this
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
 as on my ride today 7April.

 Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
 time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
 But thats a different topic.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread Minh
Well it does have Noodle bars.

On Apr 7, 6:34 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email 
 list?  That's a bold move.  ;)

 On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:







  2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over

  This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
  custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
  to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.

  From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
  slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
  goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
  that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
  bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
  care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
  of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
  achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
  of the frame design.”

  Dura-Ace seatpost
  Dura-Ace brakes
  Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
  Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
  Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
  Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
  12-26 cassette
  Cane Creek headset
  Ritchey Comp stem
  Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
  Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
  24/32h
  Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
  Alpha Q EX fork
  WTB Pure V saddle

  $1,750 + shipping and insurance

  Link to pics on photobucket:
 http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o

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[RBW] Re: FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread Anne
Yes it is outside the norm for here and indeed it is less than a
Roadeo. It's a super riding bike too. So an ad here for a bike with
some ti and that small bit of carbon? Yes. However the riding position
on the bike is very much in line with Riv fit and philosophy. The
Brooks B-17 was removed as that's on the new bike, however as noted by
another, it has a wonderful 46 wide Noodle bar on it. As Grant has
said, geometry trumps frame material every time.

Hoping it finds a new home and gets ridden LOTS.


On Apr 7, 6:34 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email 
 list?  That's a bold move.  ;)

 On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:

  2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over

  This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
  custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
  to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.

  From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
  slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
  goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
  that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
  bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
  care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
  of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
  achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
  of the frame design.”

  Dura-Ace seatpost
  Dura-Ace brakes
  Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
  Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
  Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
  Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
  12-26 cassette
  Cane Creek headset
  Ritchey Comp stem
  Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
  Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
  24/32h
  Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
  Alpha Q EX fork
  WTB Pure V saddle

  $1,750 + shipping and insurance

  Link to pics on photobucket:
 http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread William
I stopped paying attention at 'metaphysically' and slipped into a coma
at 'pulchritudinem'.  Next time talk into my good ear.

On Apr 7, 3:56 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 It is metaphysically (literally) impossible for something to be kludgy
 in the sense of badly designed and to be at the same time and in the
 same respect beautiful, since beauty implies order and harmony among
 the parts -- ie, that is part of what it is to be beautiful, at least
 in composite things. Ens et bonum et unum et pulchritudinem sunt unum
 in re.









 On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 11:54 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
  What if something is both beautiful and kludgy?  Is it beauludgy?
  Barf

  On Apr 7, 10:34 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
  on 4/7/11 8:53 AM, PATRICK MOORE at bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

   Just for the record: my interest in the text and my reason for
   referring to it was not the writing style but the message: don't
   obsess over the looks of your bikes, they are meant for riding, though
   riding has no quarrel with looks.

   I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
   floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
   spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
   dry climate, but mine get washed about 3 times a year. (I am very
   careful about keeping the drivetrain cleaned and lubed.) I am too busy
   fixing flats to clean them more often than that.

  The other thing that happens is that when I actually wrangle my sloth and
  clean the bike, I end up wanting to document that.  So, I end up with 
  images
  from the squeaky clean end o' the spectrum.  A place just north of
  Brigadoon.

  Dirty bikes. Clean drivetrains.

  Each bicycle increases exponentially the possibility that none of them will
  work properly.

  - J

  --
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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 --
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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread Frankwurst
This may be true but read what Anne has to say and if anybody is the
least bit interested you will not be dissapointed if you buy a bike
from her. I know. I bought my current Atlantis from her and if
anything she understates the overall condition of the things she
sells.

On Apr 7, 5:34 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email 
 list?  That's a bold move.  ;)

 On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:



  2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over

  This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
  custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
  to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.

  From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
  slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
  goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
  that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
  bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
  care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
  of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
  achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
  of the frame design.”

  Dura-Ace seatpost
  Dura-Ace brakes
  Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
  Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
  Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
  Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
  12-26 cassette
  Cane Creek headset
  Ritchey Comp stem
  Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
  Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
  24/32h
  Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
  Alpha Q EX fork
  WTB Pure V saddle

  $1,750 + shipping and insurance

  Link to pics on photobucket:
 http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o

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[RBW] Re: FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread William
at that price you could part it out on ebay and you'd have the
frameset for free.

On Apr 7, 4:43 pm, Frankwurst fbr...@jwperry.com wrote:
 This may be true but read what Anne has to say and if anybody is the
 least bit interested you will not be dissapointed if you buy a bike
 from her. I know. I bought my current Atlantis from her and if
 anything she understates the overall condition of the things she
 sells.

 On Apr 7, 5:34 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:







  Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email 
  list?  That's a bold move.  ;)

  On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:

   2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over

   This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
   custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
   to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.

   From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
   slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
   goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
   that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
   bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
   care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
   of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
   achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
   of the frame design.”

   Dura-Ace seatpost
   Dura-Ace brakes
   Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
   Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
   Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
   Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
   12-26 cassette
   Cane Creek headset
   Ritchey Comp stem
   Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
   Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
   24/32h
   Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
   Alpha Q EX fork
   WTB Pure V saddle

   $1,750 + shipping and insurance

   Link to pics on photobucket:
  http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o

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Re: [RBW] Re: Retro Rear Der

2011-04-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
My VGT worked on a weird 13-32 7 sp cassette, just not as well as the
immediately post-curlicue Shimano long cage I replaced it with. I had
a Superbe Pro rd that worked well on a 7 or 8 sp cassette.

On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 12:20 PM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 That said, I have SunTour Cyclone Superbe Pro rear derailleurs on both my A/R 
 (135 mm, 12-24 7 speed f/w) and my Ritchey road bike (130 mm, 12-28 8 speed). 
  Both function without a hiccup (friction downtube shifting in both cases).


 On Apr 7, 2011, at 12:39 PM, Minh wrote:

 So i use my Suntour XC pro on my Hillborne (135mm PW free wheel, but
 only 6 speed).  I have an early 90's XT (the pewter painted one, not
 the black plastic one) on my cruiser and that's a 130mm 7 speed
 cassette.  my bridgestone uses a road-der (not labeled, it's silver),
 and that's a 126mm 6-speed.

 all are friction shifting and i don't have any range issues, i think
 if you are sticking to 7 or below you're fine with these older ones,
 if you're at 8 or above then i'd get a late 90's vintage r der.

 For me it's partly i like the old stuff, but also i'm cheap, i'd
 rather pay 20-30 for a beat-up r-der from the early 90's then a new
 modern one. also all the new rapid rise, etc stuff is un-needed when
 all i use them for is friction shifting.

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-- 
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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Bill M.
Five pictures of the Legolas, five different saddle bags! Forget about
cleaning, when do you find time to organize your bag collection?  :)

On Apr 7, 2:13 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
  I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
  floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
  spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
  dry climate...

 Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
 as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
 spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
 non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
 to clean my bikes. But they still look like 
 thishttp://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
 as on my ride today 7April.

 Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
 time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
 But thats a different topic.

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[RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread EricP
Winter riding.  Even with full coverage fenders, snow/salt/slush
accumulate on a plate.  I still argue this can lead to early corrosion
of the stays when it builds up over a few winters.  (A similar
argument was recently conducted on the Surly LHT list.  Someone there
indicated to me a powdercoat frame will not rust.  Silly me.  Need to
tell my barely one year old LHT that has two winters on it the rust on
the frame is fictional.)

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Apr 7, 5:28 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Thu, 2011-04-07 at 15:08 -0700, Aaron Thomas wrote:

  The kickstand plate seems to limit the versatility of the frame,
  without really giving you any significant benefits. After all, you can
  always add a kickstand to a frame without a plate.

 Yes, sure, if you're willing to risk the chance of crushing or crimping
 the chain stays when you bolt the kickstand on.  I've seen more than one
 bike damaged that way.  No chance of doing that with a chainstay
 plate.  

 Other than cyclocross, which I would rather be flayed and have my flesh
 salted than consider, what other possible bicycling activity could be
 hampered or harmed by the presence of a kickstand plate?  

 I have two Kogswell P/Rs.  One is set up as a porteur, and it has a
 double-legged kickstand, bolted to the kickstand plate.  The other is my
 touring bike (and used to be my commuter).  It has no kickstand, but it
 does have a kickstand plate.  I've used that second P/R for every type
 of riding I do, with and without a touring load, including riding on
 gravel roads, and have never had one moment's inconvenience from the
 kickstand plate.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell chicas

2011-04-07 Thread Lynne Fitz
Miles on the Bleriot...  Looking... 9614.  :-)

On Apr 5, 6:57 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Ah, yes. The Bleriot…how many miles on it now?

 
 From: Lynne Fitz fitzb...@comcast.net
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2011 6:46 PM
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell chicas

 I'm here, but mostly lurk.  I've got a well-used 
 Bleriot:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/1509884296/in/set-721576023051...
 Lesli's Pencil and my 
 Bleriot:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4511206713/in/set-721576238325...
 and from the Portland Riv 
 Ride:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4676917808/in/set-721576240946...

 It is used for commuting and urban errands, as it has the rear rack.
 A venerable Jim Blackburn rear rack :-)

 Lynne F

 ps.  I'm the serious cyclist in the family.

 On Apr 2, 7:36 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:

  On the Cinderella Classic today, my Roadeo didn't feel all alone among
  all those carbon fiber thingies. I saw three Rambouillets and a
  beautiful sage green custom (really sage green, not the Bianchi color
  of the Atlantis). The Cinderella is for women only-- glad to see other
  Rivendell chicas.

  --
  -- Anne Paulson

  My hovercraft is full of eels

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Re: [RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2011-04-07 at 18:14 -0700, EricP wrote:
 Winter riding.  Even with full coverage fenders, snow/salt/slush
 accumulate on a plate.  I still argue this can lead to early corrosion
 of the stays when it builds up over a few winters.  

Certainly not a problem here in Northern Virginia.



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[RBW] Re: FS: Merlin Solis 56.5 w/Dura-Ace

2011-04-07 Thread rcnute
If memory serves I got an Eddy Merckx from Anne that was spectacular.

Ryan

On Apr 7, 4:43 pm, Frankwurst fbr...@jwperry.com wrote:
 This may be true but read what Anne has to say and if anybody is the
 least bit interested you will not be dissapointed if you buy a bike
 from her. I know. I bought my current Atlantis from her and if
 anything she understates the overall condition of the things she
 sells.

 On Apr 7, 5:34 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:

  Really?  Listing a bike with carbon in the frame on this particular email 
  list?  That's a bold move.  ;)

  On Apr 7, 2011, at 3:15 PM, Anne wrote:

   2005 Merlin Solis, Size Large, 56.5 top tube, 77.7 stand over

   This was my husband’s spare road ride and has been replaced by a
   custom build. The frame is in perfect shape. He prefers a quiet look
   to his frames so the top tube and down tube decals have been removed.

   From Merlin: “The Solis features a shorter top tube, longer head tube,
   slightly sloped top tube and hourglass carbon fiber seatstays. The
   goal is to put the rider in a more upright riding position for those
   that find that more comfortable. Even with its longer head tube, the
   bike is still very aesthetically pleasing because Merlin has taken
   care to position the top tube so there isn't an exaggerated extension
   of the head tube above the frame. This geometry will make it easy to
   achieve a more upright position while still  riding the ‘sweet spot’
   of the frame design.”

   Dura-Ace seatpost
   Dura-Ace brakes
   Dura-Ace 7800 shifters
   Dura-Ace 7700 F  R der
   Carbon compact double crank 170 arms, 34x50
   Phil Wood Titanium bottom bracket
   12-26 cassette
   Cane Creek headset
   Ritchey Comp stem
   Nitto Noodle bars, 46cm, heat treated
   Speed Dream wheels: American Classic hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims
   24/32h
   Michelin Pro Race tires (new)
   Alpha Q EX fork
   WTB Pure V saddle

   $1,750 + shipping and insurance

   Link to pics on photobucket:
  http://tinyurl.com/6hr6d5o

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Mojo
That is the Legolas group, and only the newest two pictures, and two
bags, are my bike.

On Apr 7, 6:42 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
 Five pictures of the Legolas, five different saddle bags! Forget about
 cleaning, when do you find time to organize your bag collection?  :)

 On Apr 7, 2:13 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:



   I am surprised by the many photos I see of bikes that are showroom
   floor clean. Either they are not ridden, or, more likely, the owners
   spend as much time cleaning them as riding them. Now I do live in a
   dry climate...

  Quite the assumption Patrick. Cleaning a bike takes about as much time
  as fixing a flat. After being caught in a heavy rainshower I will
  spend about 5 minutes wiping down a fendered bike, 15 minutes for the
  non-fendered. I too live in a dry climate and I rarely feel the need
  to clean my bikes. But they still look like 
  thishttp://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/5598979996/in/pool-legolas
  as on my ride today 7April.

  Now, when I ride offroad in La Tierra Encantada I prefer to spend my
  time riding instead of fixing flats, so I use both slime AND liners.
  But thats a different topic.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell chicas

2011-04-07 Thread cyclotourist
10K anniversary coming up soon!

On 4/7/11, Lynne Fitz fitzb...@comcast.net wrote:
 Miles on the Bleriot...  Looking... 9614.  :-)

 On Apr 5, 6:57 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Ah, yes. The Bleriot…how many miles on it now?

 
 From: Lynne Fitz fitzb...@comcast.net
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2011 6:46 PM
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell chicas

 I'm here, but mostly lurk.  I've got a well-used
 Bleriot:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/1509884296/in/set-721576023051...
 Lesli's Pencil and my
 Bleriot:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4511206713/in/set-721576238325...
 and from the Portland Riv
 Ride:http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4676917808/in/set-721576240946...

 It is used for commuting and urban errands, as it has the rear rack.
 A venerable Jim Blackburn rear rack :-)

 Lynne F

 ps.  I'm the serious cyclist in the family.

 On Apr 2, 7:36 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:

  On the Cinderella Classic today, my Roadeo didn't feel all alone among
  all those carbon fiber thingies. I saw three Rambouillets and a
  beautiful sage green custom (really sage green, not the Bianchi color
  of the Atlantis). The Cinderella is for women only-- glad to see other
  Rivendell chicas.

  --
  -- Anne Paulson

  My hovercraft is full of eels

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-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread Jason Hansen
Lucky!  Did you get any information regarding pricing and release date?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread CycloFiend
on 4/7/11 3:08 PM, Aaron Thomas at aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:

I wish the Riv/Soma frame didn't have Riv's new signature kickstand plate.
I recall seeing a photo of someone's Hilsen (maybe Cyclofiend's?) that had
been CX-raced in the mud. And the kickstand plate acted as a mud shelf,
piling it up high behind the seat tube.

The kickstand plate seems to limit the versatility of the frame, without
really giving you any significant benefits. After all, you can always add a
kickstand to a frame without a plate. But you can't take a plate off a frame
without labors that would require a re-paint. Other than convenience for
those who use kickstands, what's to be gained by having the built-in plate?
I just don't get it.

I've often been tempted by the Hillborne, but I balk because of that darned
kickstand plate, which is entirely useless to me, and would likely only be a
liability given the sometimes-mucky off-roading I'd want to do on it.

Yep.  That was mine.  And just to be clear, that was SERIOUS mud.

Slip-sliding-strictly-sticky-significantly-saucy-spirit-sucking SERIOUS
mud

http://vimeo.com/3387689

Yeah, it stacked up on the kickstand plate,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gzahnd/3285145851/in/set-72157613897340235

but it stuck to the drivetrain pretty seriously as well.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gzahnd/3285966758

There were full-bore chainstay-bridgeless CX frames that bogged down that
day.  IIRC, someone took images of all the goobered-over brakes that day -
it's somewhere on flickr.


In short, I've not had that type of results before or since - and I've
covered a pretty good assortment of conditions, both fendered and non.If
I were getting a CX-specific frame, I wouldn't ask for it, but as far as a
mixed-terrain monster, its significance could be overstated...

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

There were messengers who named their bikes, but Chevette never would have
done that, and somehow because she did think about it like it was something
alive.

William Gibson - Virtual Light


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RE: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread Kelly Sleeper
I don't mind using wipes to clean up the frame now and again.. I just hate
cleaning the wheels.. just tedious.. 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of palin...@his.com
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 4:41 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.cpesom; Eric Norris
Cc: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

Quoting Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com:

 I often hear comments about how clean my bikes are, usually given in  
  a tone that suggests that I need serious therapy to deal with   
 whatever issues I have ...

 That being said, I agree with Mojo that it's not really that hard to  
 keep a bike clean. I wash my bikes with hot soapy water if they get  
 really dirty, a process that takes 15-20 minutes.

And once it's clean, /that/ is the time to take pictures.  Not before you
clean it up.  Not when it's dirty.



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[RBW] Re: Soma/Riv Bike

2011-04-07 Thread velomann
I'm more intrigued by this bike all the time. I agree with others that
1.125 stems are an improvement, headset adjustment wise. But I still
prefer 1-inch quill stems, aesthetically, so that's a plus to me. And
downtube shifter bosses - hella yes! And if you don't like em, see if
your LBS has some of those old-school sweet Dura-Ace barrel adjusters
or get some on the 'Bay. But I also agree that the kickstand plate is
a bummer. Practical sure. My wife would say a plus. But no way would I
personally put a kickstand on this bike, so aesthetically It's just
hangin' there picking up muck. And I'm no fan of sloping downtubes
which I understand this has a bit.

Other than lugs, what do folks see as the main differences between the
(maybe) San Marcos and the Sam?

And finally, if I get one, am I a Rivendell Owner, or a tolerated
bastard cousin?

Mike

On Apr 1, 12:08 pm, Richard Merkin samcoal...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anybody heard the lastest about the release of the bike they are
 working on together?

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[RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

2011-04-07 Thread rob markwardt
I honestly don't think I've ever soap and watered any of my bikes.
I do wipe off the mud or dirt/dust after it dries but that's about
it.  I think I read a remark from Jackie Phelan (anybody read Frazz
today?) or Charlie Cunnigham or someone similar who basically
said..why wipe off the muck, it keeps the grease in.  At least I think
I read that and I'm sticking with it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/5599879688/

Rob will wipe this off tomorrow Markwardt

On Apr 7, 9:55 pm, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't mind using wipes to clean up the frame now and again.. I just hate
 cleaning the wheels.. just tedious..



 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of palin...@his.com
 Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 4:41 PM
 To: rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.cpesom; Eric Norris
 Cc: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Beausage and Beaunction

 Quoting Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com:

  I often hear comments about how clean my bikes are, usually given in  
   a tone that suggests that I need serious therapy to deal with  
  whatever issues I have ...

  That being said, I agree with Mojo that it's not really that hard to  
  keep a bike clean. I wash my bikes with hot soapy water if they get  
  really dirty, a process that takes 15-20 minutes.

 And once it's clean, /that/ is the time to take pictures.  Not before you
 clean it up.  Not when it's dirty.

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 For more options, visit this group 
 athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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