Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Tim McNamara]

That wayback seatpost makes me wonder.  If the saddle is too far back that 
might be the cause of your troubles.  I think that before yoga or a 
chiropractor, you need a bike fitting by someone who really knows what they are 
doing.  

In lieu of that, be incremental and scientific in adjusting your bike fit.  I'd 
suggest moving the saddle forward in 5 mm increments (and maybe a bit higher to 
compensate if your knees are sensitive) and seeing if the back pain goes away 
(it could take 1-2 or more cm to stop overflexing your back).

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[James Warren]

It is different for everybody, but I will echo that higher also causes me 
shoulder pain.

The lesson here is that you've got to find out what works for you, because 
there are plenty of cases where "higher is more comfortable" simply can't be 
assumed.

I will point out that the "low" position that I have settled upon is still 
considered higher than average in many circles. Here is a sample:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46035786@N07/4551628878/in/photostream/


Also, I am 6'4". In general for comfort, barheight-relative-to-saddle tends to 
be lower for taller people than it is for shorter people. Again, this is a 
generalization. You must find out what works for you.

-Jim W.



On Apr 2, 2012, at 9:16 PM, Esteban wrote:

> Yea - Slam it, and get some tri bars while your at it!!  ;)
> 
> Yea, Aaron encouraged me.  Its not for all, but with that old-timey quill 
> stem, its an easy test.  
> 
> For touring, I like the bars even, for harder efforts, I like them lower.  
> Higher led to shoulder pain.  But its different for everybody.
> 
> Of course, Albatross'ss'ss'ss are a cure. But high up up up without a sprung 
> saddle, you might end up with pain elsewhere in the you-know-what.  And they 
> isolate the quads more... unless you SLAM them!
> 
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 7:35:19 PM UTC-7, Aaron Thomas wrote:
> Stem-slamming jokes aside, Esteban's test is worth trying. I used to ride 
> with my bars at or above saddle height, but after some experimentation found 
> that bars lower than saddle height provided a much more comfortable 
> arrangement.
> 
> Note, however, that I coupled this shift in bar height with a zero setback 
> seatpost in place of a standard setback post I had been using. If you lower 
> your bars, you may also want to ditch your VO wayback post and replace it 
> with either a normal setback post or zero setback.
> 
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, Bruce Curry wrote:
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
> 
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
> 
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
> 
> Bruce in Seattle
> 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- Remember, my friends, it is better to feel fast than to be fast.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[James Warren]

I too found some success with bars lower than saddle. For me it is for keeping 
proper upper back posture.
Also, definitely don't just look at bike fit. The advice about other solutions 
and maintenance (yoga, chiropractic, etc.) is good advice. In my experience, 
bike fit can help you see where your range of useable dimensions should be, and 
the stronger your body is, the wider that range will be. 

Good luck,
Jim


On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:35 PM, Aaron Thomas wrote:

> Stem-slamming jokes aside, Esteban's test is worth trying. I used to ride 
> with my bars at or above saddle height, but after some experimentation found 
> that bars lower than saddle height provided a much more comfortable 
> arrangement.
> 
> Note, however, that I coupled this shift in bar height with a zero setback 
> seatpost in place of a standard setback post I had been using. If you lower 
> your bars, you may also want to ditch your VO wayback post and replace it 
> with either a normal setback post or zero setback.
> 
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, Bruce Curry wrote:
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
> 
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
> 
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
> 
> Bruce in Seattle
> 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- Remember, my friends, it is better to feel fast than to be fast.



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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Esteban]

Yea - Slam it, and get some tri bars while your at it!!  ;)

Yea, Aaron encouraged me.  Its not for all, but with that old-timey quill 
stem, its an easy test.  

For touring, I like the bars even, for harder efforts, I like them lower. 
 Higher led to shoulder pain.  But its different for everybody.

Of course, Albatross'ss'ss'ss are a cure. But high up up up without a 
sprung saddle, you might end up with pain elsewhere in the you-know-what. 
 And they isolate the quads more... unless you SLAM them!

On Monday, April 2, 2012 7:35:19 PM UTC-7, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>
> Stem-slamming jokes aside, Esteban's test is worth trying. I used to ride 
> with my bars at or above saddle height, but after some experimentation 
> found that bars lower than saddle height provided a much more comfortable 
> arrangement.
>
> Note, however, that I coupled this shift in bar height with a zero setback 
> seatpost in place of a standard setback post I had been using. If you lower 
> your bars, you may also want to ditch your VO wayback post and replace it 
> with either a normal setback post or zero setback.
>
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, Bruce Curry wrote:
>>
>> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
>> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
>> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
>> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
>> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
>>
>> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
>> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
>> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
>> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
>> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
>> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
>> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
>> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
>> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
>> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
>> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
>> the knee. 
>>
>> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
>> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
>> their number? 
>>
>> Bruce in Seattle
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

I think the X9 crank is branded Truvativ, which is part of the same parts 
company as SRAM. The X7 crank would be fine too, but the X9 comes in more 
versions and has more subtle logos. In fact, you can save quite a bit with 
the X5 or X7 kit or with select X5 and X7 parts. It all works together as 
long as it's all 10sp. Mine is the 42/28 double with 170 mm arms. With the 
11-36 10sp cassette, the gear range is perfect for me.

I used the TT500 bar end shifters, but you certainly could use the triggers 
or the twisters if you plan to use more of a mountain bike bar. I don't 
think Silver shifters will work.

On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:42:42 PM UTC-5, dr...@charter.net wrote:
>
> I priced the SRAm components- maybe if I buy a set I could afford it. 
> Are you talking about the trigger shifters or twister shifters? Also, 
> I could not figure out which crankcase went with the x9- is there one 
> specifically that you would recommend? 
>
> On Apr 2, 4:23 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery  
> wrote: 
> > Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White 
> Industries 
> > MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful 
> in 
> > function. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:53:19 PM UTC-5, dr...@charter.net wrote: 
> > 
> > > In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly painted 
> > > from California.  I want to rebuild it from the bottom up, as the 
> > > components, chainrings etc, were completely worn out. 
> > 
> > > However I am much better at long distance cycling than I am at putting 
> > > a bike together.  In fact, I know nothing about it at all. I have a 
> > > bike mechanic who is going to let me buy and pick out my own 
> > > components. He could probably advise me, however I suspect that with 
> > > the help of a few of you Rivendell owners and builders here, I could 
> > > put together the bike of my dreams. Last time, I just kind of asked 
> > > the bike store to put on touring Shimano components, it worked well , 
> > > but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded 
> > > technology. 
> > 
> > > Can I get a few of you to help me? If so, I will tell can start by 
> > > telling you the components that I had on it previously. 
> > 
> > > It took me two weeks just to pick out the new color for my bike. If I 
> > > tried to do this myself, it will take me a few years.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[Peter Morgano]

Rivendell does not have component groups like another of bike companies,
it's sort of mix and match which gives you lots of options but can also
lead to buying more than you need to see what works.  The build kits are
tailored for the more affordable bikes,  sam, betty, etc.  I guess the
thought is the higher end bikes probably have buyers who have particular
tastes.  I for one run an alfine hub in the rear and sometimes run a double
up front on my Homer,  not a build anyone would sell you since I believe it
voids the warranty on the hub, Haha.  I would get some second hand stuff
and experiment,  sell what you don't use or use it on other bikes,  do what
feels right for your riding style and tastes,  I know that options can get
pricey but better to play around up front than do it piecemeal.
On Apr 2, 2012 10:02 PM, "dr...@charter.net"  wrote:

> Where are the Rivendell components groups? I see on their website
> BUILD KITS< but not for the Atlantis bike.
>
> On Apr 2, 4:14 pm, Minh  wrote:
> > wow, this is an open end question.  Do you have a starting point? are
> you looking for a modern group or something more rivendell inspired?  have
> you looked at the rivendell component groups on their website?
>
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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Aaron Thomas]

Stem-slamming jokes aside, Esteban's test is worth trying. I used to ride 
with my bars at or above saddle height, but after some experimentation 
found that bars lower than saddle height provided a much more comfortable 
arrangement.

Note, however, that I coupled this shift in bar height with a zero setback 
seatpost in place of a standard setback post I had been using. If you lower 
your bars, you may also want to ditch your VO wayback post and replace it 
with either a normal setback post or zero setback.

On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, Bruce Curry wrote:
>
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
>
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
>
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
>
> Bruce in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Peter Pesce]

Oh! You didn't say you were (or might be) talking about those new fangled 
external BBs and headsets. I'm assuming that's what's on your friends carbon 
road bike. I've heard tell of those going bad in 500 rainy miles. I have an 
external BB (no idea which flavor) with only a couple hundred dry miles on it, 
so can't vouch for longevity. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Michael Hechmer]

Bruce, you may be over thinking this problem, and over focused on bike fit. 
 What are you doing for your back post ride?  I find 3-4 sessions of yoga 
every week absolutely necessary while riding regularly.  Perhaps a 
consultation with a good chiropractor or physical therapist could help.

michael

On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:05:14 PM UTC-4, Bruce Curry wrote:
>
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
>
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
>
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
>
> Bruce in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

Where are the Rivendell components groups? I see on their website
BUILD KITS< but not for the Atlantis bike.

On Apr 2, 4:14 pm, Minh  wrote:
> wow, this is an open end question.  Do you have a starting point? are you 
> looking for a modern group or something more rivendell inspired?  have you 
> looked at the rivendell component groups on their website?

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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[William]

Esteban is secretly one of those "slam your stem" dudes. :)

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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Zack]

Forgot to add I also suffered from bad back and shoulder pain, since 
switching to albas my legs get tired first (which is the way it should be 
on a bike!)

On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:05:14 PM UTC-4, Bruce Curry wrote:
>
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
>
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
>
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
>
> Bruce in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Zack]

Have you considered using albatross bars?

I am 6'3" with a really long torso, and was never comfortable on a bike 
until my 64 Sam with albas.  I have ridden the 64 with noodles too, but 
albas are really great.

Just a thought.

I have no idea about the knee/bar height thing.  

On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:05:14 PM UTC-4, Bruce Curry wrote:
>
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
>
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
>
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
>
> Bruce in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[Leslie]

On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:04:34 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
> The thing I can't get past with tubeless is the fact that I'm a tire 
> swapper.  Every bike of mine gets different tires at least 4 times per year.  
> I think that tubeless would force me to give that up.  If I had an Atlantis 
> (and I expect to have one someday), I could easily envision running lots of 
> different tires on it.  


Could consider, multiple wheel sets?


-L

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Re: [RBW] Re: XS Saddle Sack for Sale-Olive Green--Like New

[Peter Morgano]

Riv website says or used to say it could be used as a handlebar bag
somewhere I believe. I just mocked it up on my albatross bars and it worked
well. I would have rocked that but i have the platrack/slickersack combo so
it would be bag overload up there. I am going to just rock a tool roll in
my slickersack until I get a rear rack and bag for my bday in july.
I took some pics of the mock up if you want to see them.
 On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:42 PM, gabe mcgann  wrote:

> Just because I don't know for sure, but is there any chance that you sack
> could work as a handlebar bag on a nitto mustache bar?
> Thanks!
> g
>
>
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:53:48 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:
>>
>> Ok, just bought this about a month ago but recently acquired a Nitto
>> Lugged seatpost so between the seatpost and the sprung saddle this
>> just doesnt work anymore. I hate to see it go and have only used it a
>> handful of times so it is in like new condition. Was looking for $55
>> shipped, paypal preferred. Link to my flikr account
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/**67889635@N06/?saved=1
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>
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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

I priced the SRAm components- maybe if I buy a set I could afford it.
Are you talking about the trigger shifters or twister shifters? Also,
I could not figure out which crankcase went with the x9- is there one
specifically that you would recommend?

On Apr 2, 4:23 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White Industries
> MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful in
> function.
>
>
>
> On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:53:19 PM UTC-5, dr...@charter.net wrote:
>
> > In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly painted
> > from California.  I want to rebuild it from the bottom up, as the
> > components, chainrings etc, were completely worn out.
>
> > However I am much better at long distance cycling than I am at putting
> > a bike together.  In fact, I know nothing about it at all. I have a
> > bike mechanic who is going to let me buy and pick out my own
> > components. He could probably advise me, however I suspect that with
> > the help of a few of you Rivendell owners and builders here, I could
> > put together the bike of my dreams. Last time, I just kind of asked
> > the bike store to put on touring Shimano components, it worked well ,
> > but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded
> > technology.
>
> > Can I get a few of you to help me? If so, I will tell can start by
> > telling you the components that I had on it previously.
>
> > It took me two weeks just to pick out the new color for my bike. If I
> > tried to do this myself, it will take me a few years.

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

I used the Atlantis gallery to help pic colors. I know that some of
those folks list their components also..will have to go back and look.
I know there is one guy that has toured around the world on a green
Atlantis and I am sure that he knows a lot about setting up a bike.

On Apr 2, 11:13 am, dougP  wrote:
> "...but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded
> technology."
>
> You will get plenty of input from this group but yes it would be
> useful to know your current baseline, and intended use of the bike.
> You mention long distance touring & of course that's the Atlantis
> forte, but there are plenty that are used for commuting, off road,
> etc.
>
> An excellent source of inspiration is cyclofiend's Atlantis gallery.
>
> dougP
>
> On Apr 1, 5:53 pm, "dr...@charter.net"  wrote:
>
>
>
> > In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly painted
> > from California.  I want to rebuild it from the bottom up, as the
> > components, chainrings etc, were completely worn out.
>
> > However I am much better at long distance cycling than I am at putting
> > a bike together.  In fact, I know nothing about it at all. I have a
> > bike mechanic who is going to let me buy and pick out my own
> > components. He could probably advise me, however I suspect that with
> > the help of a few of you Rivendell owners and builders here, I could
> > put together the bike of my dreams. Last time, I just kind of asked
> > the bike store to put on touring Shimano components, it worked well ,
> > but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded
> > technology.
>
> > Can I get a few of you to help me? If so, I will tell can start by
> > telling you the components that I had on it previously.
>
> > It took me two weeks just to pick out the new color for my bike. If I
> > tried to do this myself, it will take me a few years.

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[shawn]

Jim,
Thanks for the reply. The reason I asked was because a friend of mine
bought a Trek carbon fiber road bike last year and after 2200 miles
had to replace the headset, bottom bracket and rear cassette. My
friend acted like this was normal, but I wasn't sure since my Atlantis
has over 4,000 miles and everything is fine. I was thinking that 2200
miles was kind of too soon to have these types of issues, but I wasn't
sure if others riders were getting the same results as I was. Thanks
again for the reply.
V/R
Shawn


On Apr 2, 11:58 am, Cyclofiend Jim  wrote:
> Hi Shawn -
>
> That's a fairly broad question with a good number of variables: Fenders or
> Open-Wheel?, Fair-Weather or Everyday? Delayed Maintenance or
> Son-of-a-mechanic obsessive?
>
> Particularly with respect to the headset, where certain companies have
> focused upon making "the best" and managed to gain significant use and
> product loyalty.
>
> For me, the realization came during the El Niño winters of the late 90's.
> I think I burned through three "standard" type headsets that winter on my
> open wheeled mtb - so a month and a half each? The effect of rain and dirt
> put a wonderfully fine spray of grinding paste up into the headtube, and
> the cups and balls got pitted and scratched beyond repair.  We'd slap in
> larger bearings and extra grease, run neoprene "shields" on the headtube,
> but nothing really mattered. I got really tired of dropping the fork and
> pressing in another headset.  At the time, I had full shop/tool access, so
> it wasn't even a problem of paying for the labor (headset press - though
> you can make one yourself - is one of those tools I never have bought.)
> After number three, I bought a Chris King, which survived that bicycle and
> moved to its replacement. I've continued that habit through this day, and
> expect the headsets to last at least as long as the frameset.
>
> On bb's, I've always upgraded from the base model - mostly out of latent
> weight-weenydom.  The UN72 type bb's (as opposed to the UN53/intro level
> ones) keep plugging along, and I know I've got over 10K on the ones in my
> bikes right now. I've heard 20K pretty regularly. I've replaced many more
> cogs, chainrings, cables and cranks than bb's.
>
> hope that's of some help - what type of bike are you putting these on?
>
> - Jim
>
> Cyclofiend / cyclofi...@gmail.com / Cyclofiend.com

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[RBW] Re: XS Saddle Sack for Sale-Olive Green--Like New

[gabe mcgann]

Just because I don't know for sure, but is there any chance that you sack 
could work as a handlebar bag on a nitto mustache bar? 
Thanks!
g

On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:53:48 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:
>
> Ok, just bought this about a month ago but recently acquired a Nitto 
> Lugged seatpost so between the seatpost and the sprung saddle this 
> just doesnt work anymore. I hate to see it go and have only used it a 
> handful of times so it is in like new condition. Was looking for $55 
> shipped, paypal preferred. Link to my flikr account 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/67889635@N06/?saved=1 
>
>
> Thanks.

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[RBW] AHH For Sale

[rlc5925]

Bike was built and deliver this past Sept. and has about 50 miles on
it.
AHH 57 cm frame
BUILD:
700 36h Lx/dyad wheels; tan cork bar tape on Nitto 29mm moustache
bars;  Tech std 8cm 26.0 stem; Shimano Tigra break levers; Bar end
silver shifters; Brooks B-68 saddle; sugino XD2 170 46/36/24 crank; 8
speed cass 11-32;jack brown green tires; DER front clamper R556 55-73;
DER rear micro shifter fancy M64L XT level; BB 107 Tanga/shimano/IRD;
Nitto S-83 27.2x250 mm seat post.
I'll be glad to email pictures to serious inquiries.
Asking $2600.00 (shipping included within Conus)

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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Esteban]

Knee-bar quotient seems spurious to me.  Its hard for me to imagine just 
how long your cockpit is!  If those are noodles, I wonder if the long stem 
influences handling.

OK. This is an easy, if sacrilegious test.  Lower the bars so that they're 
even with the saddle.  Then ride, climb, and see how it feels.  Maybe even 
try them 1cm lower. This will, of course, push the bars out more.  But it 
might answer the question about height being an issue.  

By my estimation, when you're climbing, the bars are coming up toward you, 
and the combination of "up and out" may be putting no-good pressure on your 
back.  

Anyway, just try it.  

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, Bruce Curry wrote:
>
> Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
> pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
> worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
> to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
> addl input from group members.  The facts: 
>
> 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
> 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
> long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
> hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
> bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
> probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away 
> from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
> eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
> method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
> onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
> imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
> the knee. 
>
> Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar 
> quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
> their number? 
>
> Bruce in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: Project help build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

Oh and by the way, I do like black on the bike for components or
silver. Not white- have never seen this. I have 26 " wheels. I think
it is a 56 cm frame- the largest that takes  26 inch wheels. I am not
worried about wheels, and hubs for now. I would just like to get
gears, derailers, and brakes all set up right and will consider
replancing those later.

On Apr 2, 7:39 pm, "dr...@charter.net"  wrote:
> OK thanks for all that replied. I have a fast day bike, Atlantis needs
> to be set up for touring, and getting around town. I can afford good
> components, but I am not an ostentatious person.
>
> Here is what I had previously.
>
> Nine speed Tiagra Crank  52-42-30
> Back Cassette 14-25
> UN  53 Bottom Bracket.
>
> I did like the gearing combo on this. I need a small gear for hills.
>  For derailers, brakes
> RD  Shimano 105
> FD Shimano  105
> Shimano 105 Shifters, brakes on the handlebars.
> Shimano center pull brakes.
>
> II have drop handlebars, and want to keep it that way.I also want to
> keep the gear shifters, brakes mounted on the bars in a combination as
> they are now.
>
> So, I thought a good place to start was the gears. A Shimano Ultegra
> crankcase had the 52-42-30,is a bit lighter,  but looks like it is for
> a  carbon bike. The Shimano 105 Triple Crank had a 50-39-30 10 speed
> that looke like it would be ligher, but not as prissy looking.  Which
> is when I got lost, as I would be going from a nine- ten speed. This
> is OK, but I guess that means new derailers, and shifters etc. And I
> did not know which rear cassette to purchase to get a good gear combo
> for flats and hills.
>
> As you can see, I am starting at a very basic point of confusion.So do
> you think that crankcase and rear cassette are a good place to
> start?

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[RBW] RE: Project help build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

OK thanks for all that replied. I have a fast day bike, Atlantis needs
to be set up for touring, and getting around town. I can afford good
components, but I am not an ostentatious person.

Here is what I had previously.

Nine speed Tiagra Crank  52-42-30
Back Cassette 14-25
UN  53 Bottom Bracket.

I did like the gearing combo on this. I need a small gear for hills.
 For derailers, brakes
RD  Shimano 105
FD Shimano  105
Shimano 105 Shifters, brakes on the handlebars.
Shimano center pull brakes.

II have drop handlebars, and want to keep it that way.I also want to
keep the gear shifters, brakes mounted on the bars in a combination as
they are now.

So, I thought a good place to start was the gears. A Shimano Ultegra
crankcase had the 52-42-30,is a bit lighter,  but looks like it is for
a  carbon bike. The Shimano 105 Triple Crank had a 50-39-30 10 speed
that looke like it would be ligher, but not as prissy looking.  Which
is when I got lost, as I would be going from a nine- ten speed. This
is OK, but I guess that means new derailers, and shifters etc. And I
did not know which rear cassette to purchase to get a good gear combo
for flats and hills.

As you can see, I am starting at a very basic point of confusion.So do
you think that crankcase and rear cassette are a good place to
start?

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[RBW] RE: Project help build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

OK thanks for all that replied. I have a fast day bike, Atlantis needs
to be set up for touring, and getting around town. I can afford good
components, but I am not an ostentatious person.

Here is what I had previously.

Nine speed Tiagra Crank  52-42-30
Back Cassette 14-25
UN  53 Bottom Bracket.

I did like the gearing combo on this. I need a small gear for hills.
 For derailers, brakes
RD  Shimano 105
FD Shimano  105
Shimano 105 Shifters, brakes on the handlebars.
Shimano center pull brakes.

II have drop handlebars, and want to keep it that way.I also want to
keep the gear shifters, brakes mounted on the bars in a combination as
they are now.

So, I thought a good place to start was the gears. A Shimano Ultegra
crankcase had the 52-42-30,is a bit lighter,  but looks like it is for
a  carbon bike. The Shimano 105 Triple Crank had a 50-39-30 10 speed
that looke like it would be ligher, but not as prissy looking.  Which
is when I got lost, as I would be going from a nine- ten speed. This
is OK, but I guess that means new derailers, and shifters etc. And I
did not know which rear cassette to purchase to get a good gear combo
for flats and hills.

As you can see, I am starting at a very basic point of confusion.So do
you think that crankcase and rear cassette are a good place to
start?

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Mojo]

Headsets wear out? Not in my experience riding 'serious' bikes since 1972. 
I did ruin (death by pitting) a Campy Record by tightening a half turn too 
tight. And I change the grease in my headsets every decade or so. And I 
have lived in arid-semiarid climates most of my life. Headsets sit there 
and do there little micro-turns (granted, under load, but not like the 
loads BB experience) and seem to live forever on my bikes. Bottom brackets 
too seem to live forever. Hmmm, maybe I need to ride more!
 
Mo '200 miles last week' jo

On Monday, April 2, 2012 7:30:12 AM UTC-6, shawn wrote:

> How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and 
> bottom bracket?

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Re: [RBW] Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[James Valiensi]

I've been using Chris King headsets since 1992. Never had one wear out or go 
bad. I used them on road bikes, mountain bikes, and city bikes. They last and 
are reliable. Grant used to sell them. 


James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA




On Apr 2, 2012, at 5:09 PM, Bill M. wrote:

> 1995 Riv Road - still on original headset.
> 
> 1983 Miyata 1000 - still on original headset.  
> 
> Can't think of when I have ever worn out a bottom bracket.  I swap parts 
> around too often for any one to get too much wear.  The Miyata has a Nashbar 
> sealed bearing BB from the 80's or so.  Still smooth.
> 
> I'm not a mega-mileage rider, don't tour with heavy loads, and rarely get 
> rained on,  so I may not be typical around here.  
> 
> Bill
> 
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 6:30:12 AM UTC-7, shawn wrote:
> How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and 
> bottom bracket?
> 
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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Bill M.]

1995 Riv Road - still on original headset.

1983 Miyata 1000 - still on original headset.  

Can't think of when I have ever worn out a bottom bracket.  I swap parts 
around too often for any one to get too much wear.  The Miyata has a 
Nashbar sealed bearing BB from the 80's or so.  Still smooth.

I'm not a mega-mileage rider, don't tour with heavy loads, and rarely get 
rained on,  so I may not be typical around here.  

Bill

On Monday, April 2, 2012 6:30:12 AM UTC-7, shawn wrote:
>
> How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and 
> bottom bracket?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[cyclotourist]

You have to add latex every three months or so, so could swap tires at the
time.

On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 5:04 PM, William  wrote:

> The thing I can't get past with tubeless is the fact that I'm a tire
> swapper.  Every bike of mine gets different tires at least 4 times per
> year.  I think that tubeless would force me to give that up.  If I had an
> Atlantis (and I expect to have one someday), I could easily envision
> running lots of different tires on it.
>
>
> On Monday, April 2, 2012 4:54:50 PM UTC-7, pb wrote:
>>
>> On Apr 2, 2:23 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
>> wrote:
>> > Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White
>> Industries
>> > MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is
>> beautiful in
>> > function.
>>
>> Wow.  Bold idea.  I have X-9 on my Lynskey mtn bike -- I have to say
>> that it's impressive.  Interesting idea.  Persuasive.
>>
>> The White hubs would probably add a chunk of cost -- X9 hubs would do
>> the trick as well.
>>
>> Does this also raise the subject of tubeless wheels.?  Is the
>> Atlantis 26" or 700?  Is there a selection of tubelss tires in the
>> size range an Atlantis owner might be interested in?
>>
>> ~pb
>>
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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

**
“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
love.”

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[RBW] Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

[Bruce Curry]

Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more
pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even
worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't
to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and
addl input from group members.  The facts:

64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a
12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with
long torso & short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the
hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the
bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is
probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7" away
from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely
eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The
method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding
onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the
imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of
the knee.

Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the "knee-bar
quotient" seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share
their number?

Bruce in Seattle

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[RBW] Re: AHH 56, 57 compare & contrast?

[ted]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[William]

The thing I can't get past with tubeless is the fact that I'm a tire 
swapper.  Every bike of mine gets different tires at least 4 times per 
year.  I think that tubeless would force me to give that up.  If I had an 
Atlantis (and I expect to have one someday), I could easily envision 
running lots of different tires on it.  

On Monday, April 2, 2012 4:54:50 PM UTC-7, pb wrote:
>
> On Apr 2, 2:23 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery  
> wrote: 
> > Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White 
> Industries 
> > MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful 
> in 
> > function. 
>
> Wow.  Bold idea.  I have X-9 on my Lynskey mtn bike -- I have to say 
> that it's impressive.  Interesting idea.  Persuasive. 
>
> The White hubs would probably add a chunk of cost -- X9 hubs would do 
> the trick as well. 
>
> Does this also raise the subject of tubeless wheels.?  Is the 
> Atlantis 26" or 700?  Is there a selection of tubelss tires in the 
> size range an Atlantis owner might be interested in? 
>
> ~pb 
>

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[RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[rcnute]

Check out the Rawland owners' group on Google and the Rawland website--
low trail forks coming out soon at a nice price.

Ryan

On Apr 2, 12:58 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 2:55 PM, rcnute  wrote:
> > If the idea of a carbon fork doesn't give you the howling skitters you
> > might try a Bontrager Satellite fork.
> >http://www.bikeman.com/bikeman-blogs/650blog/1897-surly-pacer-650b I
> > copied Ed Braley's 650b Pacer conversion and the fork offers more room
> > on the sides.  
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/30684316@N08/4822675226/in/set-721576245...
>
> okay - I'm reading this and I'm thinking:
> 0. I'd like to try out a 650b bike
> 1. does anyone make a low-trail fork for the pacer such that I can
> kill 2 birds w/one stone and if they do - whom should I talk to?
> 2. my need to bike-tinker is massive sometimes.
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne

[ted]

At the risk of stating the obvious, they are probably discontinued
because they don't sell. Despite a substantial time lag between the
last of the Quickbeams and the introduction of the SimpleOne it seems
they just weren't selling. Why else would they have been cleared out
at a steep discount. However, their not selling seems inexplicable to
me. Despite the bazillion "fixies" on the market, I don't think
anybody else has offered a dedicated single speed / fixed gear bike
with a real fork crown, fender eyelets (with room for fenders), and
all those braze on rack mounts.

I remain very happy with mine, and very glad I put money down on it
just as soon as I could.
I feel for those who were thinking they would get one after a while
and missed their chance.
They may be slow making it to the used market. I know mine isn't going
anywhere anytime soon (probably not till I'm dead and gone).

On Apr 2, 2:18 pm, Minh  wrote:
> Keith,
>
> I think the reason the SO was retired is that it';s a hard bike to justify on 
> paper.  If you can only have 1 bike it doesn't feel versatile enough, if you 
> already have a bike it's hard to see the need.  But let me tell you, once you 
> get it, it's a great bike.  It's my favorite bike of the 4 i own, it just 
> doesn't make sense on paper (a singlespeed steel bike, really?), but the 
> combination of classic rivendell fit, lightness, speed, make this a great 
> bike.  i could be overstating it since its the only singlespeed i own, but i 
> love mine.  now that it's discont. wait a few years and snap one up second 
> hand!

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[pb]

On Apr 2, 2:23 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White Industries
> MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful in
> function.

Wow.  Bold idea.  I have X-9 on my Lynskey mtn bike -- I have to say
that it's impressive.  Interesting idea.  Persuasive.

The White hubs would probably add a chunk of cost -- X9 hubs would do
the trick as well.

Does this also raise the subject of tubeless wheels.?  Is the
Atlantis 26" or 700?  Is there a selection of tubelss tires in the
size range an Atlantis owner might be interested in?

~pb

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone X0-3 55cm

[jinxed]

>
> Getting lots of confusion and questions on size.
>

Bridgestone sized this bike as a 52 in the catalog. That measurement 
corresponds to the seat tube. The top tube however *is indeed* 55cm center 
to center. The standover height with the 1.75 tires is 77cm = 30.3".

I will ship the bike with a TI railed Terry saddle so that it is complete.

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[RBW] Re: SF Randonneurs Populaire this Saturday

[William]

The trail through SPTPark was freaking awesome.  That was the highlight for 
sure, for me, since that was my first >100k on that bike, and that type of 
trail was exactly why I retired my racing bike(s) to buy that one.  I'm 
kind of bummed that the next time I rock that trail it probably wont be 
raining.  

I did make the final determination that a 50t front chainring is just plain 
stupid for me.  Way overkill.  So on Sunday I pulled off the crankset, BB, 
front derailer and rear derailer from the bike and updated the drivetrain. 
 Anybody want a Campy Veloce metal crankset in 50/34?  Now my 2x9 setup is 
46/29 in front and 12-27 in back, and I think that'll make that bike even 
more perfecter.  While the bike was in the workstand, a small puddle of 
water flowed out the BB when I took it out, and my rear rim still makes a 
water sloshing sound when I rotate it.  And I had full fenders.  

On Monday, April 2, 2012 12:58:01 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> Cycling is one of the only sports that I know where you don't get 
> gratification of what you've done until you're finished. So true in the 
> sport of Randonneuring. If I had to sum up the Last weekend's even in one 
> word it was wet. So wet in fact that out of the 70ish people that 
> registered for this ride only 40ish actually came out.  That means 30ish 
> people stayed inside because they were smart enough that 50 mph winds and 
> heavy downpours is not ideal bike riding weather. Gladly I met a handful of 
> people on the forum, Stephen and Bill. At least I wasn't the only dumb one 
> trying to ride in the weather  Despite all the rain it was a fairly warm 60 
> degrees out there. Warm enough that I figured rain pants wouldn't be needed 
> until the first control. Oh how wrong I was. Lucky enough I had Mr.William 
> to show me the ropes of what to do with the brevet card, receipts and 
> controls. Once the rain started coming down it didn't really stop. Figured 
> the rain pants were useless to put on at that point so they stayed in the 
> jersey pocket. Overall I had a great time mostly due to the company I got 
> to ride with. I find it interesting that it only takes one ride to really 
> get to know someone. Having never met Bill in person before I love how with 
> just 71 miles of riding in the rain you can find out so much about someone. 
> We exchanged stories, Bill told me a couple of Filippino jokes, talked 
> about life stuff and made fun of the weather yelling "At least there isn't 
> any lightning!" secretly hoping that our statement wouldn't be ironic. 
> There's always a point in any hard ride where you get one of those WTF 
> moments. My WTF moments was trying following Bill through dirt section of 
> Samuel P Taylor park. At this point the rain was coming down so hard that 
> mini streams were washing along the trail and the wind was blowing so hard 
> that it felt someone was consistently slaping me in the face, and the dirt 
> getting kicked up from my non-fendered bike was getting on the inside of my 
> clothes. My only goal was trying to keep my bike upright and keeping up 
> with Bill. My only thought at the point of the ride was that I wish I was 
> riding a bike with fenders right now. Like any true ride you only get the 
> best of the weather when you're done with the ride. We finish at Chrissy 
> Field with the SF Randonneur volunteurs hosting the post ride picnic 
> complete with coffee and goldfish crackers! Big thanks to Bill who had to 
> deal with me. It was a pleasure to ride despite the weather. I can see why 
> people like doing events like these in good weather. 
>
> Pictures proved that my camera didn't break:
> http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyMDFuJ
>
> - Manny " My shoes feel like aquariums!" Acosta 
>

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Re: [RBW] Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Tim McNamara]

On Apr 2, 2012, at 8:30 AM, shawn wrote:
> How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and
> bottom bracket?


Well, This varies by headset.  The headset in my 1996 All-Rounder is the 
original Stronglight (A-6, I think).  I've repacked it two or three times in 
the past 16 years.  Many miles, not sure how many-  15,000-20,000 probably.  
I've heard of headsets that were ruined with 0 miles on them after being on the 
roof rack of a support car.  I've got a cartridge bearing "ThreadSet" in my 
Ritchey road bike that is also from ca. 1996- it was in the frame when I bought 
it used in 1999, and has never needed more than an occasional adjustment.

BBs, I've gotten years out of the Campy Veloce BBs and still smooth as silk.  
And I've gotten 15+ years out of good quality cup and cone BBs (SunTour 
Superbe, Ritchey Logic).  I used to rebuild those at least once a year and 
replaced the ball bearings as needed.

Tim

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Allan in Portland]

My favorite head set story, and one I think shows them to be essentially 
jewelry for most normal geometry bikes, is the one from my former commuter. 
It was 20 y.o. Miyata I bought from the original owner. He didn't do 
anything for maintenance because he literally never road it. It still had 
the factory tires.

I road it hard daily commuting for a few years and after a while the 
headset started indexing. A little at first which got progressively worse 
to the point at the end it would really get my attention on a fast, winding 
downhill. I had done nothing to maintain it and figured it was probably 
time to replace it. I also wondered if I rotated it 90 degrees that would 
solve the indexing. Seemed like it shouldn't matter, but what the heck, I 
took it apart to see if it would show any signs of indentation on the 
races. There wasn't any. They were like brand new from all that my eye 
could tell. I repacked the grease put it back together surprisingly to me 
it was like new again. My guess is replacing the grease spun the flat parts 
on the balls to be out of the way.

I don't know. It seems unlikely that the balls themselves would get flat 
spots, maybe something else was the cause of the indexing, but that's what 
I experienced. Unfortunately no pictures to prove it happened. :-)

Regards,
-Allan

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[RBW] XS Saddle Sack for Sale-Olive Green--Like New

[Peter M]

Ok, just bought this about a month ago but recently acquired a Nitto
Lugged seatpost so between the seatpost and the sprung saddle this
just doesnt work anymore. I hate to see it go and have only used it a
handful of times so it is in like new condition. Was looking for $55
shipped, paypal preferred. Link to my flikr account
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67889635@N06/?saved=1


Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White Industries 
MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful in 
function.

On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:53:19 PM UTC-5, dr...@charter.net wrote:
>
> In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly painted 
> from California.  I want to rebuild it from the bottom up, as the 
> components, chainrings etc, were completely worn out. 
>
> However I am much better at long distance cycling than I am at putting 
> a bike together.  In fact, I know nothing about it at all. I have a 
> bike mechanic who is going to let me buy and pick out my own 
> components. He could probably advise me, however I suspect that with 
> the help of a few of you Rivendell owners and builders here, I could 
> put together the bike of my dreams. Last time, I just kind of asked 
> the bike store to put on touring Shimano components, it worked well , 
> but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded 
> technology. 
>
> Can I get a few of you to help me? If so, I will tell can start by 
> telling you the components that I had on it previously. 
>
> It took me two weeks just to pick out the new color for my bike. If I 
> tried to do this myself, it will take me a few years.

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne

[Minh]

Keith,

I think the reason the SO was retired is that it';s a hard bike to justify on 
paper.  If you can only have 1 bike it doesn't feel versatile enough, if you 
already have a bike it's hard to see the need.  But let me tell you, once you 
get it, it's a great bike.  It's my favorite bike of the 4 i own, it just 
doesn't make sense on paper (a singlespeed steel bike, really?), but the 
combination of classic rivendell fit, lightness, speed, make this a great bike. 
 i could be overstating it since its the only singlespeed i own, but i love 
mine.  now that it's discont. wait a few years and snap one up second hand!

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[Minh]

wow, this is an open end question.  Do you have a starting point? are you 
looking for a modern group or something more rivendell inspired?  have you 
looked at the rivendell component groups on their website?

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis seat stay angle?

[Garth]

72 degrees Doug  !

On Saturday, March 31, 2012 11:14:30 PM UTC-4, dougP wrote:
>
> Contemplating having a custom rear rack made, one of the dimensions 
> that would be useful is the angle of the seat stay.  I have a 58 cm 
> Atlantis.  Does anyone know what this angle is?  Or the best way to 
> measure it? 
>
> dougP

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[Seth Vidal]

On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 2:55 PM, rcnute  wrote:
> If the idea of a carbon fork doesn't give you the howling skitters you
> might try a Bontrager Satellite fork.
> http://www.bikeman.com/bikeman-blogs/650blog/1897-surly-pacer-650b  I
> copied Ed Braley's 650b Pacer conversion and the fork offers more room
> on the sides.  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/30684316@N08/4822675226/in/set-72157624509640944
>

okay - I'm reading this and I'm thinking:
0. I'd like to try out a 650b bike
1. does anyone make a low-trail fork for the pacer such that I can
kill 2 birds w/one stone and if they do - whom should I talk to?
2. my need to bike-tinker is massive sometimes.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: SF Randonneurs Populaire this Saturday

[Manuel Acosta]

Cycling is one of the only sports that I know where you don't get 
gratification of what you've done until you're finished. So true in the 
sport of Randonneuring. If I had to sum up the Last weekend's even in one 
word it was wet. So wet in fact that out of the 70ish people that 
registered for this ride only 40ish actually came out.  That means 30ish 
people stayed inside because they were smart enough that 50 mph winds and 
heavy downpours is not ideal bike riding weather. Gladly I met a handful of 
people on the forum, Stephen and Bill. At least I wasn't the only dumb one 
trying to ride in the weather  Despite all the rain it was a fairly warm 60 
degrees out there. Warm enough that I figured rain pants wouldn't be needed 
until the first control. Oh how wrong I was. Lucky enough I had Mr.William 
to show me the ropes of what to do with the brevet card, receipts and 
controls. Once the rain started coming down it didn't really stop. Figured 
the rain pants were useless to put on at that point so they stayed in the 
jersey pocket. Overall I had a great time mostly due to the company I got 
to ride with. I find it interesting that it only takes one ride to really 
get to know someone. Having never met Bill in person before I love how with 
just 71 miles of riding in the rain you can find out so much about someone. 
We exchanged stories, Bill told me a couple of Filippino jokes, talked 
about life stuff and made fun of the weather yelling "At least there isn't 
any lightning!" secretly hoping that our statement wouldn't be ironic. 
There's always a point in any hard ride where you get one of those WTF 
moments. My WTF moments was trying following Bill through dirt section of 
Samuel P Taylor park. At this point the rain was coming down so hard that 
mini streams were washing along the trail and the wind was blowing so hard 
that it felt someone was consistently slaping me in the face, and the dirt 
getting kicked up from my non-fendered bike was getting on the inside of my 
clothes. My only goal was trying to keep my bike upright and keeping up 
with Bill. My only thought at the point of the ride was that I wish I was 
riding a bike with fenders right now. Like any true ride you only get the 
best of the weather when you're done with the ride. We finish at Chrissy 
Field with the SF Randonneur volunteurs hosting the post ride picnic 
complete with coffee and goldfish crackers! Big thanks to Bill who had to 
deal with me. It was a pleasure to ride despite the weather. I can see why 
people like doing events like these in good weather. 

Pictures proved that my camera didn't break:
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyMDFuJ

- Manny " My shoes feel like aquariums!" Acosta 

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Re: [RBW] Bosco bars - different flares?

[BSWP]

Makes sense, the point about wide-angle lens. If there's some moderate 
flare, as Grant noted, then the front view would tend to minimize that 
flare (might look more parallel) and the rear view would exaggerate that 
flare. Physics is phun!

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Monday, April 2, 2012 1:06:37 AM UTC-7, newenglandbike wrote:
>
> I'm pretty sure that's a trick of the camera lens (wide angle), and that 
> those are two photos of the same bar.
>
> Matt
>
>
>
> On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:04:30 PM UTC-4, BSWP wrote:
>>
>> I saw the new Bosco bars on the RBW site... the pictures give the 
>> impression that some of the bars have parallel grips, and some have 
>> wide flared grips. Is this just a trick of the camera lens? Same 
>> effect can be seen for both the standard bars, and the bullmoose bars. 
>> Maybe the pictures are a blend of prototype bars? 
>>
>> For example, compare 
>>
>> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=4 
>>
>> to 
>>
>> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=3 
>>
>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, April 2, 2012 11:52:50 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote: 
>
> I recently sold my 1983 Stumpjumper, which I rode quite a bit the last 
> five years. The previous owner didn't ride it as much, but he did regular 
> maintenance on the bearings. The headset was original to the bike and still 
> felt smooth. I've noticed that some people always have crummy headsets, and 
> others seem to never have headset issues. I have never really had headset 
> problems on any of my bikes. Aside from the Stumpjumper, I use sealed 
> cartridge-bearing type headsets exclusively, though seldom anything as 
> fancy as Chris King. Unfortunately the selection of quality 1" threaded 
> headsets that aren't Chris King is quite limited.
>
>  
The key with Chris King and other similar designed headsets is it uses 
angular contact cartridge bearings instead of the old cup and cone ball 
bearings or even needle bearings. The Bicycle FAQ sums it up nicely:
 
"Shimano, Chris King, Cane Creek and others, offer angular contact, full 
ball complement, spherically aligned cartridge bearings. The Shimano 
cartridge bearings have contact seals, not exposed to weather, to retain 
grease for life of the bearing. The races are sufficiently reentrant that 
they snap permanently together with sufficient preload to prevent rocking 
(fretting) motion perpendicular to the rotational axis. Spherical steel 
rings, that move as plain bearings against an aluminum housing, support the 
cartridge bearing to absorb, otherwise damaging, out-of-plane motion while 
the cartridge bearing does the steering."
 
link: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/indexed-steering.html

On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:30:12 AM UTC-5, shawn wrote:

> How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and 
>> bottom bracket?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[rcnute]

If the idea of a carbon fork doesn't give you the howling skitters you
might try a Bontrager Satellite fork.
http://www.bikeman.com/bikeman-blogs/650blog/1897-surly-pacer-650b  I
copied Ed Braley's 650b Pacer conversion and the fork offers more room
on the sides.  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30684316@N08/4822675226/in/set-72157624509640944

Ryan

On Apr 2, 8:54 am, Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:
> For my build, there is tons of clearance all around in the rear, but
> in the front, there is clearance above the tire, but not much on the
> right and left sides of the tire.  If they widen the fork a little bit
> to allow for true 32s, then that should help the clearance in a 650b
> conversion.  For a frame under $500 and cheaper on sale, it is a great
> budget bike. Compared to a Rambouillet, the Pacer's handling is not as
> quick as the Ram, but still lively enough and good for long events.
>
> Toshi
>
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:35 AM, Mike  wrote:
> > On Apr 1, 6:02 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> >> I've said before that the Pacers
> >> should be built around full 57mm brake reach so they could fit larger
> >> tires. Good bikes other than that detail! BTW, the MTBR link doesn't show
> >> the bike unless you're signed in.
>
> > Hey David, they adjusted the space on the 2012 Pacers. From the Surly
> > Blog last year:
>
> > "We've also updated the crown and rear tire spacing to allow for true
> > 700x32 tires or 700x28s with fenders. This also means that the frame
> > will no longer work with any short reach (read: Dura-ace, Campy, 105,
> > SRAM Rival, etc) brakes - only standard (47-57mm) reach calipers
> > baby."
>
> > I imagine that this change makes for even smoother 650b conversions.
> > But then again, maybe not. I like that it'll now take a "true" 32. I
> > wonder if a Pacer with Tektro Big Mouths, not the Silver version but
> > the standard reach version (57mm) can take a Jack Brown. If that's the
> > case then the Pacer makes for a great budget road bike for folks
> > looking for something similar to a Roadeo.
>
> > --mike

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

I recently sold my 1983 Stumpjumper, which I rode quite a bit the last five 
years. The previous owner didn't ride it as much, but he did regular 
maintenance on the bearings. The headset was original to the bike and still 
felt smooth. I've noticed that some people always have crummy headsets, and 
others seem to never have headset issues. I have never really had headset 
problems on any of my bikes. Aside from the Stumpjumper, I use sealed 
cartridge-bearing type headsets exclusively, though seldom anything as 
fancy as Chris King. Unfortunately the selection of quality 1" threaded 
headsets that aren't Chris King is quite limited.



On Monday, April 2, 2012 8:30:12 AM UTC-5, shawn wrote:
>
> How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and 
> bottom bracket?

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[James Warren]

This bike is awesome. This is the bike that Specialized failed to make a couple 
of years ago when they re-released the steel Allez. They blew that one with 
super-high racing gearing and downtube shifters, a combo that few potential 
customers would be interested in.


On Apr 2, 2012, at 10:05 AM, cyclotourist wrote:

> Interesting ad copy... sounds inspired from somewhere.  Hmmm, where have I 
> heard things like this before...???
> 
> "We decided to offer it as a complete bike to make it easier for folks to try 
> one.  It's laterally stiff but vertically compliant, which is just a fancy 
> way of saying it's comfy but responds when you push hard on the pedals.  It's 
> got plenty of tire clearance for larger tires than is normal for road frames 
> because larger tires are more comfy.  Since tire casings flex before the 
> frame, higher volume tires to take the edge off the bumps and jangles which 
> otherwise can harsh your ride.  We gave the complete 28mm tires, a good all 
> around size that will still allow you to add fenders if you like.  As you 
> might expect, we built it up with a parts kit that is more than capable but 
> not snobbish or unnecessarily expensive.  No, the Pacer will not impress 
> people who live for the next replica team ‘kit.’ The Pacer reminds us, 
> quietly, that there is a road bike out there for the rest of us."  
> http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pacer
> 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 9:54 AM, cyclotourist  wrote:
> I s have a future in product design!!!
> 
> That's really a smart move on Surly's part, as the the bike is so much more 
> versatile now. 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:35 AM, Mike  wrote:
> On Apr 1, 6:02 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > I've said before that the Pacers
> > should be built around full 57mm brake reach so they could fit larger
> > tires. Good bikes other than that detail! BTW, the MTBR link doesn't show
> > the bike unless you're signed in.
> >
> Hey David, they adjusted the space on the 2012 Pacers. From the Surly
> Blog last year:
> 
> "We've also updated the crown and rear tire spacing to allow for true
> 700x32 tires or 700x28s with fenders. This also means that the frame
> will no longer work with any short reach (read: Dura-ace, Campy, 105,
> SRAM Rival, etc) brakes - only standard (47-57mm) reach calipers
> baby."
> 
> I imagine that this change makes for even smoother 650b conversions.
> But then again, maybe not. I like that it'll now take a "true" 32. I
> wonder if a Pacer with Tektro Big Mouths, not the Silver version but
> the standard reach version (57mm) can take a Jack Brown. If that's the
> case then the Pacer makes for a great budget road bike for folks
> looking for something similar to a Roadeo.
> 
> --mike
> 
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
> 
> **
> “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America 
> that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I 
> love.”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
> 
> **
> “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America 
> that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I 
> love.”
> 
> 
> -- 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- Remember, my friends, it is better to feel fast than to be fast.



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Re: [RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[cyclotourist]

Interesting ad copy... sounds inspired from somewhere.  Hmmm, where have I
heard things like this before...???

"We decided to offer it as a complete bike to make it easier for folks to
try one.  It's laterally stiff but vertically compliant, which is just a
fancy way of saying it's comfy but responds when you push hard on the
pedals.  It's got plenty of tire clearance for larger tires than is normal
for road frames because larger tires are more comfy.  Since tire casings
flex before the frame, higher volume tires to take the edge off the bumps
and jangles which otherwise can harsh your ride.  We gave the complete 28mm
tires, a good all around size that will still allow you to add fenders if
you like.  As you might expect, we built it up with a parts kit that is
more than capable but not snobbish or unnecessarily expensive.  No, the
Pacer will not impress people who live for the next replica team ‘kit.’ The
Pacer reminds us, quietly, that there is a road bike out there for the rest
of us."  http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pacer


On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 9:54 AM, cyclotourist  wrote:

> I s have a future in product design!!!
>
> That's really a smart move on Surly's part, as the the bike is so much
> more versatile now.
>
> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:35 AM, Mike  wrote:
>
>> On Apr 1, 6:02 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
>> > I've said before that the Pacers
>> > should be built around full 57mm brake reach so they could fit larger
>> > tires. Good bikes other than that detail! BTW, the MTBR link doesn't
>> show
>> > the bike unless you're signed in.
>> >
>> Hey David, they adjusted the space on the 2012 Pacers. From the Surly
>> Blog last year:
>>
>> "We've also updated the crown and rear tire spacing to allow for true
>> 700x32 tires or 700x28s with fenders. This also means that the frame
>> will no longer work with any short reach (read: Dura-ace, Campy, 105,
>> SRAM Rival, etc) brakes - only standard (47-57mm) reach calipers
>> baby."
>>
>> I imagine that this change makes for even smoother 650b conversions.
>> But then again, maybe not. I like that it'll now take a "true" 32. I
>> wonder if a Pacer with Tektro Big Mouths, not the Silver version but
>> the standard reach version (57mm) can take a Jack Brown. If that's the
>> case then the Pacer makes for a great budget road bike for folks
>> looking for something similar to a Roadeo.
>>
>> --mike
>>
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
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>> http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
>
> **
> “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
> that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
> love.”
>
>


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

**
“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
love.”

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[cyclotourist]

I s have a future in product design!!!

That's really a smart move on Surly's part, as the the bike is so much more
versatile now.

On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:35 AM, Mike  wrote:

> On Apr 1, 6:02 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > I've said before that the Pacers
> > should be built around full 57mm brake reach so they could fit larger
> > tires. Good bikes other than that detail! BTW, the MTBR link doesn't show
> > the bike unless you're signed in.
> >
> Hey David, they adjusted the space on the 2012 Pacers. From the Surly
> Blog last year:
>
> "We've also updated the crown and rear tire spacing to allow for true
> 700x32 tires or 700x28s with fenders. This also means that the frame
> will no longer work with any short reach (read: Dura-ace, Campy, 105,
> SRAM Rival, etc) brakes - only standard (47-57mm) reach calipers
> baby."
>
> I imagine that this change makes for even smoother 650b conversions.
> But then again, maybe not. I like that it'll now take a "true" 32. I
> wonder if a Pacer with Tektro Big Mouths, not the Silver version but
> the standard reach version (57mm) can take a Jack Brown. If that's the
> case then the Pacer makes for a great budget road bike for folks
> looking for something similar to a Roadeo.
>
> --mike
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>


-- 
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David
Redlands, CA

**
“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
love.”

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[RBW] Re: Bosco bars - different flares?

[grant]

They all flare a little---if 90 deg reps zero flare (parallel), then
the bars are about 82 deg. We've yet to get the 55's in, but the plan
was to keep the flare and shrink the flat part nexto the stem (by
1.5cm per side). That'll still leave handroom, especially for the
diminutive, tiny-fingered, well-manicured female hand we envision
clutching them, and yetnot to narrow for a fat hand, either. It's
really a "come one, come all" bar...and yes to the bar-end shifters!
g

On Apr 1, 3:04 pm, BSWP  wrote:
> I saw the new Bosco bars on the RBW site... the pictures give the
> impression that some of the bars have parallel grips, and some have
> wide flared grips. Is this just a trick of the camera lens? Same
> effect can be seen for both the standard bars, and the bullmoose bars.
> Maybe the pictures are a blend of prototype bars?
>
> For example, compare
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=4
>
> to
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=3
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Camping Pictures now of Flickr!

[Zack]

The rene's hunqa picture is awesome (they all are, but this one stands 
out).  sweet.

also loved the random smelting photo.  what's up with that?

On Monday, April 2, 2012 12:44:15 AM UTC-4, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> Pictures from Rivendell prove that they exist and are awesome. 
> http://flic.kr/s/aHsjyALBGG

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[RBW] WTB: 26" X 2.15 Big Apples

[colin p. cummings]

If you've got em and don't want em, I want em and don't got em.  Email
off list.

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX

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[RBW] Re: Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[dougP]

"...but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded
technology."

You will get plenty of input from this group but yes it would be
useful to know your current baseline, and intended use of the bike.
You mention long distance touring & of course that's the Atlantis
forte, but there are plenty that are used for commuting, off road,
etc.

An excellent source of inspiration is cyclofiend's Atlantis gallery.

dougP

On Apr 1, 5:53 pm, "dr...@charter.net"  wrote:
> In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly painted
> from California.  I want to rebuild it from the bottom up, as the
> components, chainrings etc, were completely worn out.
>
> However I am much better at long distance cycling than I am at putting
> a bike together.  In fact, I know nothing about it at all. I have a
> bike mechanic who is going to let me buy and pick out my own
> components. He could probably advise me, however I suspect that with
> the help of a few of you Rivendell owners and builders here, I could
> put together the bike of my dreams. Last time, I just kind of asked
> the bike store to put on touring Shimano components, it worked well ,
> but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded
> technology.
>
> Can I get a few of you to help me? If so, I will tell can start by
> telling you the components that I had on it previously.
>
> It took me two weeks just to pick out the new color for my bike. If I
> tried to do this myself, it will take me a few years.

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[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Hi Shawn - 

That's a fairly broad question with a good number of variables: Fenders or 
Open-Wheel?, Fair-Weather or Everyday? Delayed Maintenance or 
Son-of-a-mechanic obsessive? 

Particularly with respect to the headset, where certain companies have 
focused upon making "the best" and managed to gain significant use and 
product loyalty.  

For me, the realization came during the El Niño winters of the late 90's.  
I think I burned through three "standard" type headsets that winter on my 
open wheeled mtb - so a month and a half each? The effect of rain and dirt 
put a wonderfully fine spray of grinding paste up into the headtube, and 
the cups and balls got pitted and scratched beyond repair.  We'd slap in 
larger bearings and extra grease, run neoprene "shields" on the headtube, 
but nothing really mattered. I got really tired of dropping the fork and 
pressing in another headset.  At the time, I had full shop/tool access, so 
it wasn't even a problem of paying for the labor (headset press - though 
you can make one yourself - is one of those tools I never have bought.)  
After number three, I bought a Chris King, which survived that bicycle and 
moved to its replacement. I've continued that habit through this day, and 
expect the headsets to last at least as long as the frameset. 

On bb's, I've always upgraded from the base model - mostly out of latent 
weight-weenydom.  The UN72 type bb's (as opposed to the UN53/intro level 
ones) keep plugging along, and I know I've got over 10K on the ones in my 
bikes right now. I've heard 20K pretty regularly. I've replaced many more 
cogs, chainrings, cables and cranks than bb's.

hope that's of some help - what type of bike are you putting these on?

- Jim

Cyclofiend / cyclofi...@gmail.com / Cyclofiend.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[Toshi Takeuchi]

For my build, there is tons of clearance all around in the rear, but
in the front, there is clearance above the tire, but not much on the
right and left sides of the tire.  If they widen the fork a little bit
to allow for true 32s, then that should help the clearance in a 650b
conversion.  For a frame under $500 and cheaper on sale, it is a great
budget bike. Compared to a Rambouillet, the Pacer's handling is not as
quick as the Ram, but still lively enough and good for long events.

Toshi


On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:35 AM, Mike  wrote:
> On Apr 1, 6:02 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
>> I've said before that the Pacers
>> should be built around full 57mm brake reach so they could fit larger
>> tires. Good bikes other than that detail! BTW, the MTBR link doesn't show
>> the bike unless you're signed in.
>>
> Hey David, they adjusted the space on the 2012 Pacers. From the Surly
> Blog last year:
>
> "We've also updated the crown and rear tire spacing to allow for true
> 700x32 tires or 700x28s with fenders. This also means that the frame
> will no longer work with any short reach (read: Dura-ace, Campy, 105,
> SRAM Rival, etc) brakes - only standard (47-57mm) reach calipers
> baby."
>
> I imagine that this change makes for even smoother 650b conversions.
> But then again, maybe not. I like that it'll now take a "true" 32. I
> wonder if a Pacer with Tektro Big Mouths, not the Silver version but
> the standard reach version (57mm) can take a Jack Brown. If that's the
> case then the Pacer makes for a great budget road bike for folks
> looking for something similar to a Roadeo.
>
> --mike

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[RBW] Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[shawn]

How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and
bottom bracket?

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne

[iamkeith]

Yer killin' me.   Your post is exactly what I didn't want to ever
read.

 A single speed bike makes absolutely no sense for me, living in the
mountains and given the kind of on-road riding that I do.  But as much
as I love my decked-out Rambouillet, I thought I might enjoy riding
something lighter and simpler just for the sake of it - extravagent or
not.  So I thought about getting a Simple One both before and after
the close-out deal, but never quite jumped.  (Having a kid in college
makes spontaneous, irrational purchases difficult, even when you know
it's the bargain of the century.)  Sigh...

So I'm wondering:  Why did they discontinue these in the first place?
Anybody know?  Even though I wasn't in a position to get one quite
yet, it was the ONE current model that I actually covetted or "planned
to eventually buy."  Everything else just seems to functionally
overlap too much with the Rambouillet that I alread  have.  I'm
curious...

On Mar 25, 1:27 pm, David Spranger  wrote:
> After only a week of riding my SimpleOne, I find it is fast becoming my
> favorite bike. I cannot pin down what quality it has that gives me such a
> joy to ride. I own a Rambouillet and a Surly LHT and it would be easy to
> make the argument that either one of those is way more practical for my
> purposes than the SimpleOne. I do love both of those bikes and would not
> easily give them up, but the SimpleOne has become my new best friend. I am
> grateful that I bought one before they disappeared.
>
> David Spranger

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[RBW] Project Help my Build my Atlantis

[dr...@charter.net]

In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly painted
from California.  I want to rebuild it from the bottom up, as the
components, chainrings etc, were completely worn out.

However I am much better at long distance cycling than I am at putting
a bike together.  In fact, I know nothing about it at all. I have a
bike mechanic who is going to let me buy and pick out my own
components. He could probably advise me, however I suspect that with
the help of a few of you Rivendell owners and builders here, I could
put together the bike of my dreams. Last time, I just kind of asked
the bike store to put on touring Shimano components, it worked well ,
but I this time I want it rebuilt a bit lighter with upgraded
technology.

Can I get a few of you to help me? If so, I will tell can start by
telling you the components that I had on it previously.

It took me two weeks just to pick out the new color for my bike. If I
tried to do this myself, it will take me a few years.

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Re: [RBW] Bosco bars - different flares?

[John L]

I think that's just keystone effect.  You can see it too in pictures of the 
moustache and Mark's bars (to a varying degree).

On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:04:30 PM UTC-4, BSWP wrote:
>
> I saw the new Bosco bars on the RBW site... the pictures give the 
> impression that some of the bars have parallel grips, and some have 
> wide flared grips. Is this just a trick of the camera lens? Same 
> effect can be seen for both the standard bars, and the bullmoose bars. 
> Maybe the pictures are a blend of prototype bars? 
>
> For example, compare 
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=4 
>
> to 
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=3 
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: My Riv story and my Surly Pacer 650b conversion

[Mike]

On Apr 1, 6:02 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> I've said before that the Pacers
> should be built around full 57mm brake reach so they could fit larger
> tires. Good bikes other than that detail! BTW, the MTBR link doesn't show
> the bike unless you're signed in.
>
Hey David, they adjusted the space on the 2012 Pacers. From the Surly
Blog last year:

"We've also updated the crown and rear tire spacing to allow for true
700x32 tires or 700x28s with fenders. This also means that the frame
will no longer work with any short reach (read: Dura-ace, Campy, 105,
SRAM Rival, etc) brakes - only standard (47-57mm) reach calipers
baby."

I imagine that this change makes for even smoother 650b conversions.
But then again, maybe not. I like that it'll now take a "true" 32. I
wonder if a Pacer with Tektro Big Mouths, not the Silver version but
the standard reach version (57mm) can take a Jack Brown. If that's the
case then the Pacer makes for a great budget road bike for folks
looking for something similar to a Roadeo.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone X0-3 55cm

[jinxed]

>
> Last bump before it goes to the bay.
>

Trying to keep it in the family, so I'll pick up the shipping charges in 
the US. 

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[RBW] Re: My SimpleOne (a set on Flickr)

[David Spranger]

Thanks! The unique shots are the perspective of my creative spouse. You 
know, I never thought I would be interested in cream tires either, but I 
really like them with the dark green frame and the cream details of the 
paint.

I don't know why they discontinued it, but I am happy I bought it before 
they were gone. 

David

On Monday, April 2, 2012 10:57:47 AM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:
>
> Very nice! I was never a fan of the cream tires but with this frame color 
> they look perfect.
>
> Some unique shots there from angles you don't often see (under-the-stem?!)
>
> All this Simple-One-Love makes you wonder why the bike sold so poorly that 
> Riv discontinued it. Was it really just the price?
>
> -Pete in CT
>
> On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:17:38 PM UTC-4, David Spranger wrote:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/73873271@N03/sets/72157629719114745/
>>
>> David Spranger
>> Charlotte, NC
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: My SimpleOne (a set on Flickr)

[Peter Pesce]

Very nice! I was never a fan of the cream tires but with this frame color 
they look perfect.

Some unique shots there from angles you don't often see (under-the-stem?!)

All this Simple-One-Love makes you wonder why the bike sold so poorly that 
Riv discontinued it. Was it really just the price?

-Pete in CT

On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:17:38 PM UTC-4, David Spranger wrote:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/73873271@N03/sets/72157629719114745/
>
> David Spranger
> Charlotte, NC
>

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[RBW] Re: My new Simpleone!

[David Spranger]

Beautiful bicycle. I love my SimpleOne. Has become my favorite bike.

On Saturday, March 31, 2012 8:22:06 AM UTC-4, John L wrote:
>
> I had no intention of buying a new bike.  Let me say that for starters. 
>  But as part of my trip to the Bay Area last month I made it over to Walnut 
> Creek and found a nice looking Simpleone in the showroom.  So, took a 62cm 
> model out for a spin, loved the fit, loved how light and springy it felt 
> compared to my racked, bagged, geared, and fendered Hillborne (not to say I 
> don't also love that).  But since I had no intention of buying a new bike, 
> I walked out with a Mark's Wrap and a stack of Rivendell readers.  And, 
> only hatching in my mind, a plan to save pennies, sell lemonade, etc until 
> I could get my hands on one.  And then, panic, I get home and the Simpleone 
> goes away from the web page.  So, sense and frugality having taken their 
> leave, lust and terror dictating the action, I fret, email, fret more, and 
> manage to come away with that same 62cm model I demo'ed a few weeks before. 
>  Here are some quick iphone pictures, just after the shakedown ride.  I do 
> not regret a thing.
>
> link to the flickr pics 
>

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RE: [RBW] My new Simpleone!

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Beautiful.  Now if I can just finish mine...


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of John L
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 8:22 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] My new Simpleone!

I had no intention of buying a new bike.  Let me say that for starters.  But as 
part of my trip to the Bay Area last month I made it over to Walnut Creek and 
found a nice looking Simpleone in the showroom.  So, took a 62cm model out for 
a spin, loved the fit, loved how light and springy it felt compared to my 
racked, bagged, geared, and fendered Hillborne (not to say I don't also love 
that).  But since I had no intention of buying a new bike, I walked out with a 
Mark's Wrap and a stack of Rivendell readers.  And, only hatching in my mind, a 
plan to save pennies, sell lemonade, etc until I could get my hands on one.  
And then, panic, I get home and the Simpleone goes away from the web page.  So, 
sense and frugality having taken their leave, lust and terror dictating the 
action, I fret, email, fret more, and manage to come away with that same 62cm 
model I demo'ed a few weeks before.  Here are some quick iphone pictures, just 
after the shakedown ride.  I do not regret a thing.

link to the flickr pics

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[RBW] Re: FS: Trek 1984 620 Frame and Fork, rack and cages (24" frame)

[kps]

The lovely 24" Trek 620 frame and fork has found a new home.  Thanks to all 
who inquired.  Appreciate it! kps

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[RBW] Re: FS. parts for sale

[islaysteve]

Apparently this one will not allow the rear cog size I need, so I will not 
be purchasing.  Again, sorry for the confusion.  Steve
On Sunday, April 1, 2012 2:05:02 AM UTC-4, Norman Bone wrote: 
>
>  Clearing out the stash. Prices plus actual shipping. Paypal or check is 
> fine.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bonehaus/sets/72157629348609808/
>
>
> -Norm in sopping wet PDX, OR
>
>
>
> Brooks Champion Flyer saddle
> Honey, small copper rivets, black rails/springs. New. $110
>
> Ritchey Comp Lite stem
> 22.2 100mm extension, new. $50
>
> DiaCompe SS-5 Brake levers
> Take offs, Like new $25
>
> DA downtube shift levers
> SL-7401, 7spd, very good $15
>
> Campy Record high flange front hub
> 100mm OLD, 36h, smooth but filthy $20
>
> 'vintage' Cannondale tool bag.
> tire levers and patch kit $7
>
> 2 pair Kool Stop Continental brake pads
> Salmon, threaded for side pull brakes, new in package. $5 per pair
>
> RX100 side pull brakes
> 47-57mm, BR-A550, New in package. $50
>
> SunTour Bar end shifters
> 1 works smooth, 1 works tight, used. $15
>
> Deore LX hubset 
> 7spd, HB-M550, 36h, new in box (box is falling apart) $40
>
> Deore Thumbshifters
> 7spd, SL-MT62, very good. $35
>
> Deore XT Thumbshifters
> 7spd, M732, new in box $75
>
> Ultegra Rear Derailer
> Long cage, RD6500, new in box $40
>
> HG90 8spd cassette
> 13-26, new in box. $40
>
> Kalloy seat post
> 27.2, some mild insertion marks $7
>
> Chainrings:
> Biopace 52t, new, 130bcd $10
> Biopace 42t, very good, 130bcd  $10
> Shimano SG, very good, 42t, 130bcd $10
> Sugino 48t, new in package, 144bcd $40
>
> DiaCompe ss-5 lever pivot assembly
> 2 sets, each set has parts for 1 pair of levers. $5 each
>
> SRAM/Sachs freewheels
> 13-32 7spd. New in package $15
> 12-28 7spd. New, open package $15
>
> Shimano freewheel
> 6spd, 14-32, good/used. $10
>
> Shimano RSX rear derailer
> Short cage, A416, Very good $20
>
> Christophe steel toe clips
> Brand new $10
>
> Christophe toe clip straps
> 1 black, new in package $5
> 1 brown, new in package but appears to have some discoloration on buckles 
> $5
>
> SunTour Sprint shift levers
> LD4850, new in box $50
>
> Suntour Superbe Pro brake levers
> new $40
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bonehaus/sets/72157629348609808/
>

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[RBW] Re: FS. parts for sale

[islaysteve]

Norman, I'd like the Ultegra long cage der.  I assume it's compatible with 
STI 8-speed.  Do you know what max cog size it will handle?  Please relpy 
to  alkiremx5 at verizon dot net with your paypal address.  Not sure if the 
reply to author is working for me, sorry to post here.  Thanks, Steve

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Re: [RBW] My SimpleOne (a set on Flickr)

[David Spranger]

I also had my frame for sometime (since beginning of year) and was 
collecting parts for it over that time. It finally came together two weeks 
ago. I have really enjoyed seeing all the variations of SimpleOnes that the 
group has put together. I took a lot of influence from those pictures to 
put mine together.

The tape comes from Green Grips (greengrips.org) and is two colors of bar 
tape weaved together. The blue is called "Royal Blue" and the green is 
"Dark Green".

Good luck with yours and post pics when you have it ready.

On Sunday, April 1, 2012 10:25:32 PM UTC-4, Matt wrote:
>
> All these SimpleOne slideshows popping up on the list have me even more 
> excited about my highly anticipated (by me) 62cm build.
>
> The parts list is mostly laid out and I've been squirreling away the 
> choice pieces for a month and a half.  The only thing I am unsure on is the 
> colour of the cloth bar tape.  Grey, Maroon, Eggplant, and Yellow have all 
> been contenders, but I really like the colour blue and was impressed by the 
> dark blue colour of bar tape you used on your bars, David.   May I please 
> ask what the colour is called and where you got the tape from?
>
> Matt
>

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Re: [RBW] Bosco bars - different flares?

[newenglandbike]

I'm pretty sure that's a trick of the camera lens (wide angle), and that 
those are two photos of the same bar.

Matt



On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:04:30 PM UTC-4, BSWP wrote:
>
> I saw the new Bosco bars on the RBW site... the pictures give the 
> impression that some of the bars have parallel grips, and some have 
> wide flared grips. Is this just a trick of the camera lens? Same 
> effect can be seen for both the standard bars, and the bullmoose bars. 
> Maybe the pictures are a blend of prototype bars? 
>
> For example, compare 
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=4 
>
> to 
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12&PhotoNumber=3 
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley

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