[RBW] Re: WTB: Large Sackville Saddle Bag or Something Similar

['Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hey Carlos,
See my FS: posting from about 23 hours ago. I have one in green. Here's the 
description for that:

"> *Large Rivendell Saddlesack* in Olive green — Some links:

Sackville SaddleSack Large - Tan 


http://web.archive.org/web/20150214102338/http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bassl.htm

Approximately 17.25" wide, 8.5" tall and 13" deep. Two zippered side 
pockets and two zippered forward-facing pockets. 

Includes removable, matching Kangaroo Pocket. (~10.75”w x 7” tall)

>From one of the old catalog web pages:

*Capacity:*

*Not bulged (imagine): 1700 cubic inches, or 27.8 liters (the British way)*

*Bulged but not ridiculous: 1984 cubic inches, or 32.5 liters*

*The pocket adds about 50 cubic inches, or .82 liters*

Very good to excellent condition. Some minor stains on left at top, slot 
for tombstone was obviously used and some minor scuffs on the bottom

$238 original retail. *$170 net to me"*

*Pics: *https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0XGI9HKKGT5sc5

Reply to this message or David.Lipsky at Me.com

Note, haven't looked but I'd guess it will cost about $25 to USPS this with 
some additional insurance.
On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:23:20 PM UTC-8 reca...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> Looking to buy a Sackville Baggabond or large Sackville saddle bag. I am 
> also open to any other large capacity saddle or handlebar bag. Let me know 
> if anyone has anything they would like to sell. I am pretty open in terms 
> of color but would like a large capacity bag. Thanks!
>
> Carlos
>

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[RBW] Re: Crash Inspection Advice

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm glad you came out more or less OK. It sucks that you need surgery to 
repair your body, and I hope that the injury is at least on a less 
important finger on your non-dominant hand.

As for the bike, I'll just ask for a new bike if yours was in good shape 
before the crash. The frame is probably OK, structurally, but new paint is 
expensive. Also, I would change anything that appears damaged or affected 
by the crash. Yes, even the rotated brake lever, and especially the 
handlebar and maybe even stem. You can't be sure that a whack large enough 
to rotate a brake lever and stem wouldn't cause invisible damage that may 
come back to haunt you later. If the stem was tightened quite a bit, I'll 
even inspect the fork, especially the steerer for any damage. Those rascals 
(or their parents) basically owe you a bike in the exact same state as 
before the incident, without any hidden damage, scratches, chips or dent.

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:50:20 PM UTC-8 Litho wrote:

> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>
> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
> knuckle. 
>
> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>
> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Nat Lichten]

Hi Johnny,

No solutions to suggest, but I had the same irritating issue with a rear
Riv silver shifter running 9 spd shimano mtn rear derailleurs. For me
tightening the thumb screw that held the shifter did help somewhat, but
only temporarily. I was going to try some loctite, but passed the bike on
to someone else before I had a chance.

-Nat in DC

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 11:56 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> OK, it came from a shop, not from Rivendell, but we're assuming that it is
> stuff that's supposed to work together.  That's good
>
> There is no particular Left vs Right.  Either one can serve either role.
>  It's just a matter of whether you want the D-rings on the outside or the
> inside.  Since you've swapped things around liberally, can I assume you've
> already swapped the shifters?  Did they both do equally badly when used for
> the rear der?
>
> Next, please describe the "play".  What does this mean?  Do you mean you
> can wiggle the shifter side to side?  Do you mean you can wiggle the
> shifter in it's normal travel direction and it moves a bit before the cable
> starts moving?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:05:44 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have a complete set. It's the right hand shifter that's causing the
>> problem. 9 speed. I have a double chainring on the front with a granny gear
>> and a 36t big ring. This is setup to avoid shifting the front derailleur
>> too often, so I don't use the left hand shifter enough to say if it's got a
>> major problem. I tried a few different derailleurs, mostly variants of
>> Shimano Deore, but the slipping/ghost shifting persisted.
>>
>> The setup is a full Rivendell branded barend shifter set. No cobbling
>> together. I ordered it as a Dia Compe barend shifter set, and the shop I
>> bought it from sent me the Riv set.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Johnny
>>
>> On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 16:27, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> OK one step at a time
>>>
>>> 1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a
>>> problem or only one?
>>> 2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell
>>> Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble
>>> together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end
>>> pods?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hello RBWers,

 I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end
 shifters.
 There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this
 out of the box.
 They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the
 bigger to smaller
 sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make
 much difference,
 even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to
 persist.

 It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does
 anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to
 add an additional washer somewhere?

 Thanks for any help,

 Johnny in Belgium

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[RBW] WTB: Large Sackville Saddle Bag or Something Similar

[reca...@gmail.com]

Hello All,

Looking to buy a Sackville Baggabond or large Sackville saddle bag. I am 
also open to any other large capacity saddle or handlebar bag. Let me know 
if anyone has anything they would like to sell. I am pretty open in terms 
of color but would like a large capacity bag. Thanks!

Carlos

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any Susie owners out there?

[Andrew Stevens]

Sam, the MBs were 90s mtbs, more similar to an Atlantis than a Susie. The 
Susie has a much more upright position, and a radically longer top tube 
(70cm on the XL, with a 59cm seat tube.) The design of early mountain 
bikes, and most race designed bikes regardless of generation, is to spread 
your center of gravity more evenly between the hbars and seat in order to 
reduce drag. None of these principles apply to the Susie, which is designed 
to have most of the weight on the saddle, further back and over the rear 
stays, for the purpose of comfort. 

On Saturday, January 30, 2021 at 4:19:10 PM UTC-6 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:

> Sam- The Susie is completely different from a stock MB2. Susie has higher 
> bars for a more upright position centered over your feet, wider tires, and 
> a longer wheelbase. I found the Susie much more comfortable and confidence 
> inspiring on rough terrain. I sold my 1992 MB2 and bought an Atlantis- no 
> regrets.
> On Saturday, January 30, 2021 at 7:16:36 AM UTC-8 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> How does the susie compare to an mb2 I have an mb1 and assume it is the 
>> same geometry. Had to use a short stem for drips and just picked up some 
>> albatross bars to experiment.
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 1:24 PM Jared Wilson  wrote:
>>
>>> Got mine set up a couple weeks back with Tumbleweed Persuader bars. 
>>>
>>> Bike is looonnnggg, but still feels nimble enough on single track, not 
>>> to mention smooth! I find she likes to self steer towards rougher terrain 
>>> just to see what happens ;)
>>>
>>> I came from a Bridgestone MB2 and I'm very happy with how the Susie 
>>> handles in comparison, I'm left wanting nothing more than to put down more 
>>> miles.
>>>
>>> Jared in Santa Cruz
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 10:55:10 AM UTC-8 benjami...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, my first post here!

 I am close to pulling the trigger on a Susie, but am not finding many 
 descriptions of how it rides, handles, etc.  What should I expect?  How is 
 the acceleration?  I am looking for something for 50% single track and 50% 
 gravel roads, and an occasional short bikepacking trip.  I ride a rigid 
 MTB 
 currently so the lack of front suspension won't be a shock (get it?), but 
 still am looking to smooth out some of the bumps.  How is it to ride with 
 swept back bars on technical single track? 

 Thanks a lot for the thoughts!!

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>>> 
>>> .
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>>

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[RBW] WTB: 62 Hillborne Canti -black

[rusty miller]

Long shot, looking for a 62 Hillborne in Black. Preferably a Canti version.

Got one for the wife a few years back and she loves it, always wanted one 
too (and she wants to match!), but missed out on the black ones when they 
were available, and the newest run went too quick.

Let me know, 

cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thanks and shout out to LBS

[Ryan Stanis]

Hey Adam, thanks for giving me the opportunity to build your bike for you!
An absolute pleasure.

So glad to hear you enjoyed your inaugural ride. As a mechanic and fellow
Riv owner nothing warms my heart more.

-Ryan

1/5 of Keystone Bicycle Co.

On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 6:26 PM Mark Roland 
wrote:

> Great looking bike. Enjoy!
>
> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 6:16:19 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Adam,
>>
>> It looks lovely.  Happy riding for many thousands of miles!!!  I think
>> Keystone even featured your Hillborne on their IG stories and posts and I
>> wrote a note (I'm BicycleBertie).  Perhaps we'll meet up on my Joe
>> Appaloosa, AHHilsen, or my Platy!  I'm on the Schuylkill River Trail quite
>> a lot.
>>
>> I've been following Zack for a couple of years as the only person in town
>> I'd let work on my Riv bikes.  When he and four friends opened Keystone
>> Bike, I followed him there.  And, now, I let any one of them work on my
>> bikes.  I trust them.  A month ago they did a fabulous job replacing the
>> Dyno light on my AHH and I'm beyond thrilled.  They have great attention to
>> detail and they appreciate all kinds of bikes, including Riv's (two of them
>> own Rivs).
>>
>> I"m so glad that you got both a fabulous ride and a new LBS!
>>
>> See you on SRT!
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 4:22:53 PM UTC-5 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, new member here, been gathering a lot of info and thought I'd say
>>> thanks.
>>>
>>> Just wanted to thank the list--particularly the member who sold me the
>>> Hillborne frame a month or so ago. (won't call you out by name in case
>>> that's not what you want)
>>>
>>> I had it built up by a great "newish" LBS, Keystone Bicycle Co
>>>  here in Philly. If anyone in the area
>>> doesn't know about them (I didn't) it's a great shop. They did a wonderful,
>>> very simple build and were amazing to work with (so much great attention to
>>> detail, and super patient with my questions, decisions, etc)
>>>
>>> The bike's amazing, took it for a little ride in the cold rain
>>> yesterday, I'm blown away by the handling and responsiveness. I somehow
>>> didn't expect it to be so fast.
>>>
>>> [image: PXL_20210126_192214101~2.jpg]
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Mixte vs Diamond Frame

[Leslie Tierstein]

Glad to hear it. A friend has a mixte and it had bottle mounts. I guess because 
my mixte had a non-standard tube it didn’t. It was an older Austro Daimler. 
I’ll see if I can find a picture - just lent the bike to a friend. 

> On Jan 28, 2021, at 5:38 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>  wrote:
> 
> Leslie - the good news is that after you mentioned the bottle mounts I went 
> and checked my frame - there are two sets of mounts for water bottles on the 
> Platypus! 殺 Rivendell mixtes >All other mixtes. 
> 
>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 1:24:50 PM UTC-8 Leslie Tierstein wrote:
>> The only difference I found is that, since the mixte doesn't have a 
>> traditional down tube, it didn't have a down tube braze-on for a water 
>> bottle cage. How it rides depends on other design characteristics. Also, 
>> there's no top tube, so no pressing your thighs against the top tube when 
>> you go downhill.  But I have that same issue with my folding bike. 
>> 
>>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 9:01:13 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:
>>> I had a Cheviot for a brief spell. I found it a surprisingly zippy feeling 
>>> bike, which I attributed to some nice flex in the frame. But, a mixte 
>>> really is a trip thru design for me, so I didn’t see any advantage for 
>>> mounting or dismounting.
>>> 
>>> Eric
>>> 
 On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, Melanie  wrote:
 All this discussion of mixtes on the list has made me curious. I’ve never 
 ridden a mixte. Other than mounting/dismounting, do owners of both types 
 of bikes experience any real differences between riding a mixte and riding 
 a diamond frame?
 
 Mixte-curious Melanie 
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Re: [RBW] WTB: Saluki, 54cm or thereabouts

[Ryan Nute]

No difference that I can tell!

Ryan


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com  on 
behalf of Robert Blunt 
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 2:29 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [RBW] WTB: Saluki, 54cm or thereabouts

I had a 55 or 57 bleriot about ten years ago, and very stupidly sold it. It was 
the best bike I have ever owned. Do the couplers affect ride quality? Just 
curious.
Best,
Robert Blunt
Pennington, NJ

On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 4:23 PM Ryan Nute 
mailto:rcn...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
The Bleriot is mine if anyone's interested.  I go back and forth about keeping 
it.  Plus, I just got another Clem (thanks to Matthew's lead!).

Ryan

On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 4:23:35 AM UTC-8 Robert Blunt wrote:
I tried with the saluki in Smithfield. He/she is also selling a Heron and seems 
only interested in selling both bikes for 4,000 dollars or you have to show up 
in person with cash in hand. Seller suggested I take a road trip! Might I 
suggest the Protovelo Bleriot with S couplers for sale in Seattle? It has the 
same dimensions I believe as the Saluki in Smith field and doesn't seem to 
require coordinating a space shuttle launch to buy. I bought the 54 sam for 
sale yesterday. Good luck.
Best,
Robert Blunt
Pennington, NJ

On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 12:21 AM Applegate  wrote:
Hello Bunchpeople,

I'm here on a mission to help a friend find a 54cm Saluki—her dream bike. I 
will state up front that I do recognize:

  *   we're in search of bit of a rare bird
  *   the AHH took over for the Saluki
  *   one Robert Blunt, of Pennington, NJ seems to be in the final stage of 
obtaining the only presently known Saluki listing (in the 54 spec, no less)

Nonetheless, I thought this group would be the best hope for tracking down a 
solution. In the even that an appropriately sized Homer could take its place, 
what do we think would be the likelihood of and the process for acquiring 
Saluki decals and headbadge?

Thank you in advance!
Alex Applegate
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Mike Godwin]

Riding on Pinehurst always put a smile on my face.  Here Prefumo Cyn Rd to 
Avila is pretty close, sans redwoods.

Mike SLO CA

On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 3:13:05 PM UTC-8 Kurt Manley wrote:

> Today's rainy ride on Pinehurst Rd. in the tiny town of Canyon, CA. Just 
> over the hill from Oakland. A roadie hollered "you're crazy!" as he whizzed 
> by, I guess bc I was on my Hunq with its fat tires? I thought he was crazy, 
> no fenders and tiny lil tires.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Gus Rear Fender Install Help/Suggestions

[Ed Fausto]

Hi RDS,
Were you able to install fenders on your Gus?
What size are those tires?
Ed

On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 10:08:54 PM UTC+8 RDS wrote:

> What is the best way to install the rear fender on the Gus (see pic).  I 
> purchased some SKS Bluemels.  If another type of fender will work better, 
> let me know.

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[RBW] Re: Gus Boots Willsen Build

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Laing,
That is definitely a very premium build.
How do you find the Crust Ti LD stem? is this the raw finish?

I am looking for ways to have my handlebar higher than my seat on my 51 Gus.
Right now my steering tube is still uncut and using a 70m Nitto UI-21 stem 
with Nitto Choco norm handlebar.
The uncut steerer tube with lots of headset spaces does not look nice which 
is why I am considering a similar stem as an alternative.

Ed Fausto
On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 10:39:05 PM UTC+8 lconley wrote:

> I am still bent forward a little, I may install narrower spacers and cut 
> down the steering tube a little more (already cut about 3" off). I am not 
> comfortable too upright - been riding drops for over 50 years. I have a 
> long torso and short legs so I am still leaning over with bars considerably 
> above the saddle - I like a long effective top tube. My Riv Custom is 
> something like 54.5 ST, 63 TT with a 6 degree TT. Note that the majority of 
> the grips are forward of the headtube. I am not comfortable on Boscos and 
> Albatrosses.
> I already had many of the parts except for the rims, spokes and tires from 
> an abandoned Crust ScapeGoat fatbike build from a few years ago. The rear 
> hub came from a set of Peter White wheels that were on my original Blue 
> headtube Sam from 8 years ago.
>
> Laing
>
> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 Jesse Stoddard wrote:
>
>> Man that is a seriously premium build. Regarding fit, are you pretty 
>> upright on this? 
>>
>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 8:14:02 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Here is my Gus Boots Willsen build. Only have a few details left (water 
>>> bottles cages, bar tape on, remove the brake cable hanger - installed to 
>>> preserve space in case I want cantilevers), final trim of cable housing and 
>>> soldering cable ends
>>> Frame - Large Gus Boots Willsen with IRD roller bearing headset
>>> Wheels - built by me - 700C
>>>   Front - 40 spoke, bolt-on Phil Wood Hub, Velocity Cliffhanger rim - 
>>> black with machined sidewalls, Sapim double butted spokes - 4-cross
>>>   Rear - 48 spoke, bolt-on Phil Wood Touring Hub - 9 speed, Velocity 
>>> Cliffhanger rim - black with machined sidewalls, Sapim double butted spokes 
>>> - 4-cross
>>> Tires - Surly Extra-Terrestrial 29x2.5
>>> Drivetrain - 1x11
>>>   Crank - White Industries M30 crank and bottom bracket, 32 tooth 
>>> chainring
>>>   Cassette - 11 speed Shimano XT 12-46 (12 tooth first position cog 
>>> substituted for 11)
>>>   Chain - Wipperman Connex 11 speed
>>>   Rear Derailleur - SRAM GX 11 speed with SRAM trigger shifter
>>> Pedals - Speedplay Drillium
>>> Brakes - Shimano Deore V-brake
>>> Brake Levers - Shimano DXR MX70
>>> Brake Cables - Jaguar ultra-slick with Jaguar housings
>>> Seat post - Nitto S-83, 26.8
>>> Saddle - NOS Brooks B-68
>>> Stem - Crust Ti LD
>>> Handlebars - Jones Ti 660
>>> Grips - Jones
>>> Pump - Zefal HPX-3
>>> Kickstand - Pletscher
>>> Weight as pictured - 35.0 lbs
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_0013 (2).JPG]
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_0010 (2).JPG]
>>>
>>> Laing
>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest tire fit on Homer Hilsen?

[Ben Miller]

I had an early Waterford AHH size 65. It maxed out at 38x700c tyres. In 
fact, I ended up parting ways with it because of that. I did really try to 
get Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads to fit, but it wasn't even close. I think I 
would have kept to if could have. 

The problem was the seats stays weren't dimpled. So it might have just been 
that particular frame, though I don't really know. I did inquire with a 
frame builder about dimpling them, but was told it was too close to the 
bridge that it would probably ruin the frames structural integrity. 

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 3:43:19 PM UTC-8 mkernan...@gmail.com wrote:

> I used to have a Waterford Homer.  Not sure of the year.   I ran 45c WTB 
> Riddlers and 43c Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads.   Both sets: front and rear.   
> Not sure you could fender those tires though.   Soma Cazadero in 42s are 
> nice as well.   These tires all lean towards gravel/ dirt oriented.-Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 1, 2021, at 3:34 PM, Paul Richardson  wrote:
>
> I successfully ran 43mm GravelKing SK+, but only very briefly.  Personally 
> I like the bike best with 38mm Rene Herse or good ol' 33mm Jack Browns.  
> Mine's a 2011 Waterford.
>
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 5:02:58 PM UTC-5 Sean Cleary wrote:
>
>> Hey gang, what 700C tires above 40mm have you had success with on 
>> previous generation (2013) A. Homer Hilsen? Confusing what exactly fits per 
>> Rivbike. Have really enjoyed GravelKing Slick Plus 35mm on smooth gravel 
>> and pavement but that's the max width in that non-knobby tread pattern. 
>> Want to "*go to 11*"; thinking 42-45mm. Thanks!
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Atlantis MIT 53cm 650B in Lovely Condition — 2018 Edition

[Hugh Smitham]

Thanks Paul for helping me back on a Rivendell.

Hugh

On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 11:50:07 AM UTC-8 Paul in Vermont wrote:

> Hello Everyone! This frame is still available. I'm probably going to put 
> it up on eBay soon, but figured I'd give the forum a last chance in case 
> anyone is interested!!!
>
> :)
>
> Best,
>
> Paul
>
> On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 12:16:15 PM UTC-5 Paul in Vermont wrote:
>
>> Hello Everyone.
>>
>> I'm selling one of my two Atlantis frames as I'm out of room in our 
>> backyard shed now that I have a Susie. This one is a 53cm MIT 650B Atlantis 
>> I bought last Spring from Psychic Derailleur.  For sale for $1000, and I'll 
>> throw in shipping via UPS anywhere in the lower 48!
>>
>> I'm 5'11" with a 85.5~ PBH.  I'm just on the tall end of correct fit for 
>> this frame — the bike fit me great with Albatross bars. My wife is 5'7.5" 
>> with longish legs and rode the bike just fine as well when it was built up.
>>
>> This is the 2018 MIT version, which has slightly different geometry from 
>> the 2019 version: the head tube is a little steeper and the top tube a tiny 
>> bit shorter.  This is the geometry I personally prefer as the steering 
>> feels nice and tight. 
>>
>> (My other Atlantis is the same year, though a size larger as I use it for 
>> upright riding around town.)
>>
>> The frame is clean and in perfect mechanical condition, no bumps or major 
>> dings or anything like that. There are a few small places where the paint 
>> has been scratched and repaired:
>>
>>- There's a spot about half the size of a dime on the top-tube where 
>>the bike rubbed against the rack on my car. This has been repaired with 
>>matching Tester's model paint. Detail image attached. You won't see it 
>>except in bright light — the repair paint is matte and I never got around 
>>to adding a gloss coat on top of it.
>>- Same thing with a few pinhead sized marks in the seat stay and 
>>downtube, most of which have been repaired in the same way.
>>
>> Includes standard Rivendell FSA headset and bottom bracket.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> [image: IMG_1492.jpeg]
>>
>> [image: IMG_1493.jpeg]
>>
>> [image: IMG_1495.jpeg]
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB: MKS Urban Platform Pedals

[John Bokman]

Any Rivsters out there who tried, and decided to pass on these and are 
willing to let them go (not too dear)? I'm growing tired of my VP VICE 
digging hell out of my shoes, and find the platform is larger than I really 
need. Also, I've had significant durability issues with the bearings, so am 
looking for a silky-smooth pedal my dogs can jibe with that will last. 
(Since I have not tried these, I'm reluctant to buy new and discover they 
are not my cup of tea.)

Bonus: If you have any cage clips I'd be interested in those, too.

Thanks all.

John
Portland OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest tire fit on Homer Hilsen?

[Michael Williams]

I used to have a Waterford Homer.  Not sure of the year.   I ran 45c WTB 
Riddlers and 43c Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads.   Both sets: front and rear.   Not 
sure you could fender those tires though.   Soma Cazadero in 42s are nice as 
well.   These tires all lean towards gravel/ dirt oriented.-Mike

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 1, 2021, at 3:34 PM, Paul Richardson  wrote:
> 
> I successfully ran 43mm GravelKing SK+, but only very briefly.  Personally I 
> like the bike best with 38mm Rene Herse or good ol' 33mm Jack Browns.  Mine's 
> a 2011 Waterford.
> 
> paul
> takoma park, md.
> 
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 5:02:58 PM UTC-5 Sean Cleary wrote:
>> Hey gang, what 700C tires above 40mm have you had success with on previous 
>> generation (2013) A. Homer Hilsen? Confusing what exactly fits per Rivbike. 
>> Have really enjoyed GravelKing Slick Plus 35mm on smooth gravel and pavement 
>> but that's the max width in that non-knobby tread pattern. Want to "go to 
>> 11"; thinking 42-45mm. Thanks!
> 
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[RBW] Re: Widest tire fit on Homer Hilsen?

[Paul Richardson]

I successfully ran 43mm GravelKing SK+, but only very briefly.  Personally 
I like the bike best with 38mm Rene Herse or good ol' 33mm Jack Browns.  
Mine's a 2011 Waterford.

paul
takoma park, md.

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 5:02:58 PM UTC-5 Sean Cleary wrote:

> Hey gang, what 700C tires above 40mm have you had success with on previous 
> generation (2013) A. Homer Hilsen? Confusing what exactly fits per 
> Rivbike. Have really enjoyed GravelKing Slick Plus 35mm on smooth gravel 
> and pavement but that's the max width in that non-knobby tread pattern. 
> Want to "*go to 11*"; thinking 42-45mm. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Den John]

Thanks, the beeswax is an interesting idea. I'll give that a try. (BTW, any
idea if beeswax is a good substitute for anti-seize? I have had a tube of
Shimano anti-seize that's lasted
me about 6 years but it's starting to run out).

I'll also see if any of my other shifters have metal washers. I think I
have some bits of Campagnolo stuff that might do.

Cheers,
Johnny

On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 23:13, John P. in SF  wrote:

> HI
>
> I have had maybe 6 pairs of silvers over the years and not all of them
> slipped, used both as bar end and as dt shifters.
>
> I have solved some of my silver shifter slipping problems by placing a
> thin slice of beeswax in between all the various parts and reassembling. I
> have only had problems with right hand shifters slipping - not sure why,
> and I never thought of swapping the left to right or vice versa. The
> beeswax seems to work for a year or two and then needs refreshing.
>
> I have also used a metal outer washer from a different shifter instead of
> the plastic jobby, and on one stubbornly slipping shifter (gifted to the
> girlfriend, fool that I am) I swapped out the d-ring bold for a regular m5
> bolt so I could torque it down enough to stop the slippage. Then she took
> it to a shop for some maintenance and they took the m5 out and put in a
> d-ring bolt and the shifter started slipping again...she was not happy.
>
> Not all silver shifters slip, but some do and it can be frustrating.
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello RBWers,
>>
>> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end
>> shifters.
>> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this
>> out of the box.
>> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the
>> bigger to smaller
>> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make
>> much difference,
>> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to
>> persist.
>>
>> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does
>> anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to
>> add an additional washer somewhere?
>>
>> Thanks for any help,
>>
>> Johnny in Belgium
>>
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> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[John P. in SF]

HI

I have had maybe 6 pairs of silvers over the years and not all of them 
slipped, used both as bar end and as dt shifters.  
 
I have solved some of my silver shifter slipping problems by placing a thin 
slice of beeswax in between all the various parts and reassembling. I have 
only had problems with right hand shifters slipping - not sure why, and I 
never thought of swapping the left to right or vice versa. The beeswax 
seems to work for a year or two and then needs refreshing. 

I have also used a metal outer washer from a different shifter instead of 
the plastic jobby, and on one stubbornly slipping shifter (gifted to the 
girlfriend, fool that I am) I swapped out the d-ring bold for a regular m5 
bolt so I could torque it down enough to stop the slippage. Then she took 
it to a shop for some maintenance and they took the m5 out and put in a 
d-ring bolt and the shifter started slipping again...she was not happy.

Not all silver shifters slip, but some do and it can be frustrating.

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello RBWers,
>
> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end 
> shifters. 
> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this 
> out of the box.
> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the 
> bigger to smaller
> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make 
> much difference,
> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to 
> persist. 
>
> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does anyone 
> have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to add an 
> additional washer somewhere?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Johnny in Belgium
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Robert Hakim]

An interesting tidbit that I just learned about today from a telemark 
skiing forum:

Capsaicin cream on your feet under socks. Theoretically the capsaicin will 
help dilate blood vessels, increasing blood flow and warming those toes. 
Maybe a bit of a 'warming' effect from the effects of the peppers 
themselves too? 

I haven't tried it yet, but I do love spicy things... 

-Robert

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 4:00:30 PM UTC-5 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Will deR,
>
> Can you tell me about the fit of the Lakes?  I like to get a little big 
> for a winter shoe, but not sure how their fit compares to normal bike 
> shoes.  My Shimanos are 44, Sidis are 43.  I'm generally a solid 9 1/2, 
> with average width feet.  Thanks!
>
> Other Will, near Boston
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 3:15 PM William deRosset  
> wrote:
>
>> >Will: Can you describe, or give make and model, of your dedicated winter 
>> bike shoes?
>>
>> Dear Patrick,
>>
>> Not directed to me, and I have an answer:
>>
>> Assuming you use SPD pedals, I recommend Lake MXZ304s. Not inexpensive.
>>
>> I actually own the now-discontinued MXZ303, which differs very slightly 
>> from the 304: they relocated the ratcheting dial closure to make it less 
>> likely to be bumped a couple of years ago.  When new, they were overkill at 
>> peri-freezing temperatures. Now, with time (I got them sometime around 
>> 2012), heavy seasonal use, and my own advancing age/worsening Reynauds, I 
>> use them starting around 40degF and will eventually get chilly feet below 
>> about 12degF when otherwise properly outfitted. I use chemical warmers for 
>> rides at or below about 10degF as a result. I wear a 46 wide and find 
>> plenty of room for my (low-volume but pretty wide) forefoot and a pair of 
>> thick ragg wool socks. 
>>
>>  Best Regards,
>>
>> Will
>> William M. deRosset
>> Fort Collins, CO
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:42:21 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Widest tire fit on Homer Hilsen?

[Sean Cleary]

Hey gang, what 700C tires above 40mm have you had success with on previous 
generation (2013) A. Homer Hilsen? Confusing what exactly fits per 
Rivbike. Have really enjoyed GravelKing Slick Plus 35mm on smooth gravel 
and pavement but that's the max width in that non-knobby tread pattern. 
Want to "*go to 11*"; thinking 42-45mm. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Bombadil on its Archetypal Route (loads of photos)

[Jason Fuller]

Brendon - 40C?!  I assume you're in Australia or similarly southern 
hemisphere?  That's tough to ride in. This day was about 6 or 7C, and I'll 
take that over 40 any day!  This model Sugarloaf is the waxed canvas model 
they did when they first released the bag (2016 sometime) and I haven't 
maintained the wax at all (there is no perceptible wax left) and it still 
keeps the contents dry every time!  

Andy - Your words are appreciated and echoed. My favourite part of these 
rides has been discovering new things that I would never have any other 
way. Often they're just ordinary things that I found interesting, like the 
carport with car in it I found behind an old house whose driveway had 
completely grown in to be forest again (the car's reg was 20 years 
expired), or a new bike path bridge in an area of town I had never been in 
before. Having such an expensive bike isn't strictly needed for this, but 
it certainly encourages me to go further and more often!  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Joe Bernard]

It can't hurt to grab the new harder plastic washers Riv sells for these 
but yeah, there's some play in them that never goes away. The washers may 
solve the 'slipping in gear' part though, that's what matters in my 
opinion. 



On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:57:05 PM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:

> I didn't swap the levers from one side to the other. There's no reason not 
> to try it I suppose, just never got round to it. 
>
> In any case, both levers, left and right, seem to have a lot of lateral 
> play in them. Like about a mm or more at the pod where the lever bolts on.
> I have tightened the D rings about as far as possible by hand. There is 
> still a slighly loose fore-aft feeling in the lever before the ratchet 
> clicks when I want to shift,
> but it's not like a friction shifter that's not been tightened enough - 
> nothing is actually slipping.
>
> I have a couple of sets of old suntour bar ends, both the first generation 
> ones and the later barcons with 7 speed indexing on the RD side and 
> ratcheting on the FD side. 
> Neither of those shifters have any play in and I've never had any problems 
> with them slipping. 
>
> Thanks again for any suggestions.
>
> On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 17:56, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> OK, it came from a shop, not from Rivendell, but we're assuming that it 
>> is stuff that's supposed to work together.  That's good
>>
>> There is no particular Left vs Right.  Either one can serve either role.  
>>  It's just a matter of whether you want the D-rings on the outside or the 
>> inside.  Since you've swapped things around liberally, can I assume you've 
>> already swapped the shifters?  Did they both do equally badly when used for 
>> the rear der?
>>
>> Next, please describe the "play".  What does this mean?  Do you mean you 
>> can wiggle the shifter side to side?  Do you mean you can wiggle the 
>> shifter in it's normal travel direction and it moves a bit before the cable 
>> starts moving?  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:05:44 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have a complete set. It's the right hand shifter that's causing the 
>>> problem. 9 speed. I have a double chainring on the front with a granny gear 
>>> and a 36t big ring. This is setup to avoid shifting the front derailleur 
>>> too often, so I don't use the left hand shifter enough to say if it's got a 
>>> major problem. I tried a few different derailleurs, mostly variants of 
>>> Shimano Deore, but the slipping/ghost shifting persisted. 
>>>
>>> The setup is a full Rivendell branded barend shifter set. No cobbling 
>>> together. I ordered it as a Dia Compe barend shifter set, and the shop I 
>>> bought it from sent me the Riv set.  
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Johnny
>>>
>>> On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 16:27, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>>
 OK one step at a time

 1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a 
 problem or only one?
 2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell 
 Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble 
 together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end 
 pods?

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hello RBWers,
>
> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end 
> shifters. 
> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like 
> this out of the box.
> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the 
> bigger to smaller
> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't 
> make much difference,
> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to 
> persist. 
>
> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does 
> anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to 
> add an additional washer somewhere?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Johnny in Belgium
>
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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Will Boericke]

Will deR,

Can you tell me about the fit of the Lakes?  I like to get a little big for
a winter shoe, but not sure how their fit compares to normal bike shoes.
My Shimanos are 44, Sidis are 43.  I'm generally a solid 9 1/2, with
average width feet.  Thanks!

Other Will, near Boston

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 3:15 PM William deRosset 
wrote:

> >Will: Can you describe, or give make and model, of your dedicated winter
> bike shoes?
>
> Dear Patrick,
>
> Not directed to me, and I have an answer:
>
> Assuming you use SPD pedals, I recommend Lake MXZ304s. Not inexpensive.
>
> I actually own the now-discontinued MXZ303, which differs very slightly
> from the 304: they relocated the ratcheting dial closure to make it less
> likely to be bumped a couple of years ago.  When new, they were overkill at
> peri-freezing temperatures. Now, with time (I got them sometime around
> 2012), heavy seasonal use, and my own advancing age/worsening Reynauds, I
> use them starting around 40degF and will eventually get chilly feet below
> about 12degF when otherwise properly outfitted. I use chemical warmers for
> rides at or below about 10degF as a result. I wear a 46 wide and find
> plenty of room for my (low-volume but pretty wide) forefoot and a pair of
> thick ragg wool socks.
>
>  Best Regards,
>
> Will
> William M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:42:21 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Den John]

I didn't swap the levers from one side to the other. There's no reason not
to try it I suppose, just never got round to it.

In any case, both levers, left and right, seem to have a lot of lateral
play in them. Like about a mm or more at the pod where the lever bolts on.
I have tightened the D rings about as far as possible by hand. There is
still a slighly loose fore-aft feeling in the lever before the ratchet
clicks when I want to shift,
but it's not like a friction shifter that's not been tightened enough -
nothing is actually slipping.

I have a couple of sets of old suntour bar ends, both the first generation
ones and the later barcons with 7 speed indexing on the RD side and
ratcheting on the FD side.
Neither of those shifters have any play in and I've never had any problems
with them slipping.

Thanks again for any suggestions.

On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 17:56, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> OK, it came from a shop, not from Rivendell, but we're assuming that it is
> stuff that's supposed to work together.  That's good
>
> There is no particular Left vs Right.  Either one can serve either role.
>  It's just a matter of whether you want the D-rings on the outside or the
> inside.  Since you've swapped things around liberally, can I assume you've
> already swapped the shifters?  Did they both do equally badly when used for
> the rear der?
>
> Next, please describe the "play".  What does this mean?  Do you mean you
> can wiggle the shifter side to side?  Do you mean you can wiggle the
> shifter in it's normal travel direction and it moves a bit before the cable
> starts moving?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:05:44 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have a complete set. It's the right hand shifter that's causing the
>> problem. 9 speed. I have a double chainring on the front with a granny gear
>> and a 36t big ring. This is setup to avoid shifting the front derailleur
>> too often, so I don't use the left hand shifter enough to say if it's got a
>> major problem. I tried a few different derailleurs, mostly variants of
>> Shimano Deore, but the slipping/ghost shifting persisted.
>>
>> The setup is a full Rivendell branded barend shifter set. No cobbling
>> together. I ordered it as a Dia Compe barend shifter set, and the shop I
>> bought it from sent me the Riv set.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Johnny
>>
>> On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 16:27, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> OK one step at a time
>>>
>>> 1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a
>>> problem or only one?
>>> 2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell
>>> Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble
>>> together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end
>>> pods?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hello RBWers,

 I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end
 shifters.
 There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this
 out of the box.
 They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the
 bigger to smaller
 sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make
 much difference,
 even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to
 persist.

 It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does
 anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to
 add an additional washer somewhere?

 Thanks for any help,

 Johnny in Belgium

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem L Complete (64cm)

[Reid Echols]

Clem is sold, folks. Thanks for the kind words and interest. Now to build 
up this new (to me) Ram...

On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 7:11:13 AM UTC-6 Mark Roland wrote:

> It is indeed amazing. And I believe the Clem L is no longer offered in 
> this mega size. You could cut it up and reassemble as two smaller bikes.  
> I'm always a bit envious that the larger Clems retain the swooped seat 
> stays. I think this deserves its own genre. Not a Monster Cross; how about 
> a Monster Step Through, or Monster Dutch? Dutch Monster. *Monsterfiets*.
>
> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 4:22:46 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
> wrote:
>
>> That's a heckuva deal. Worth that for the wheels and tires alone!(nearly
>> ) 
>> Is that the standard boscomoose angle or the ultra rare nonstandard 
>> version? Great bicycle.
>> -Kai
>>
>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 11:02:24 AM UTC-5 Reid Echols wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Bunch, 
>>>
>>> Thanks to the purchase of a new Gus and the recent Albatrizing of my 
>>> Atlantis, I am thinking it may be time to let the Clem go to someone who 
>>> will ride it more often. It is listed as a complete, built as a 1x10 
>>> cruiser with some nice upgrades (fillet-brazed Bosco Bullmoose bars, 
>>> Velocity Cliffhanger wheels, tubeless Compass tires, Brooks saddle, NOS 
>>> Gipiemme seat post, etc.). It’s a big bike: under 6’ 2” or so probably need 
>>> not apply. This bike is a true magic carpet; rides smoothly and 
>>> surprisingly spry-ly, built to last a lifetime.
>>>
>>> I'm asking essentially the retail price for a new Clem complete locally 
>>> ($1650), which seems fair given the upgrades. However, for the RBW folks 
>>> I'm willing to go a bit lower or entertain offers. Shipping will, as you 
>>> might expect, be expensive, but I'd split professional pack and ship for 
>>> the right buyer (and to support my LBS). 
>>>
>>> Photos here 
>>> , 
>>> but please let me know if this wonky new interface doesn't work. If you are 
>>> unable to DM, my email is just my first and last name, all lower case, at 
>>> gmail. 
>>>
>>> Thanks, 
>>> Reid Echols 
>>> in Austin, TX 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Fender for Gus Boots Willsen

[iamkeith]

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 4:53:07 PM UTC-7 Weston Hein wrote:

>
> What rims are you running on the Susie? 
>

Weston,  good question.

I used Nimbus Dominator II rims.  They're unicycle rims.  On paper they 
sound heavy at 900g but, in hand, they feel remarkably light for something 
so stout.  42mm wide, eyeletted,  beefy thick brake track but not the 
machined version.  I decided to try Tubolito tubes which are really light 
and thus offset any extra rim weight anyway.  In theory, you're not 
supposed to use these tubes on rim-brake wheels because they could melt 
during something like a prolonged brake-riding descent.  I was willing to 
take a chance because I can't see myself using the bike in such a manner, 
regularly if ever, and because I figured the larger tire volume and 
aluminum rim mass would dissipate heat better than a typical too-narrow 
rim.  And becasue I clearly don't like to do things the way they're meant 
to be done.  I haven't put them to the test yet, but will open it up and 
see if the tube is sticking to the rim after some riding next summer.  In 
the meantime, I'll say that they are holding air way better than any 
light-weight butyl tube or, especially, tubless setup ever has for me.

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[William deRosset]

>Will: Can you describe, or give make and model, of your dedicated winter 
bike shoes?

Dear Patrick,

Not directed to me, and I have an answer:

Assuming you use SPD pedals, I recommend Lake MXZ304s. Not inexpensive.

I actually own the now-discontinued MXZ303, which differs very slightly 
from the 304: they relocated the ratcheting dial closure to make it less 
likely to be bumped a couple of years ago.  When new, they were overkill at 
peri-freezing temperatures. Now, with time (I got them sometime around 
2012), heavy seasonal use, and my own advancing age/worsening Reynauds, I 
use them starting around 40degF and will eventually get chilly feet below 
about 12degF when otherwise properly outfitted. I use chemical warmers for 
rides at or below about 10degF as a result. I wear a 46 wide and find 
plenty of room for my (low-volume but pretty wide) forefoot and a pair of 
thick ragg wool socks. 

 Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:42:21 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Will Boericke]

They are an older model of Shimano shoes.  The current version has some
name like MW7.  Lightly insulated, gore-tex, with a neoprene collar.   The
collar is the thing that's dying first - rest of the shoe is still going
strong.  I wear them every day for my commute (October - April) + cold
weather mtb and road duty in the shoulder season.  They are probably 1/2
size larger than my Sidis: extra room for socks and happy warm feet.  The
only downside (which I think is corrected in the newer model) is that the
sole is just plastic.  I have done several headers in them, one notably in
my backyard on ice under snow.  Luckily I was wearing my helmet.  Wish I
had footage.

When I replace them, I might spring for Lake's winter shoes.  I think they
are the ne plus ultra of winter shoes.

Will, keeping feet dry and riding in all temps.

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 12:42 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Will: Can you describe, or give make and model, of your dedicated winter
> bike shoes?
>
>
> Patrick Moore, still hoping for some rideable snow this season, in ABQ, NM
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:39 AM Will Boericke  wrote:
>
>> Dedicated winter bike shoes have been the best money I've spent,
>> bike-wise.  Gore-tex and 1/2 size bigger.  Did 2 hours on the mtb in 12
>> degrees yesterday, no problem.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:08:14 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> A not-quite-on-topic, and in any case no longer attainable factor in
>>> cold weather warmth is youth. Back when I was in my 20s, youthful hot
>>> blood, to use another weird Victorian concept, kept me warm in cold
>>> weather. During my 5 years in La Ville de Kebek, I did my 4 miles of
>>> running outside in temps as low as -17*F (the high on the coldest day I
>>> ran; I went X-country skiiing at 20 below or lower), and my kit was
>>> poor-grad-student cheap: regular running shoes over thick wool socks from
>>> some sort of Eastern Canadian chain store, thin, cotton Kmart sweat pants,
>>> and cotton T shirt under cheap ditto cotton sweatshirt under high quality
>>> but very old anorak with peeling water barrier, plus acrylic scarf and
>>> *toque,* and cheap fleece-lined leather work gloves. I only ever felt
>>> cold on that -17* high day; on most days, I'd peel off scarf and open
>>> anorak zipper halfway through my 4 miles, running, not jogging.
>>> Interesting, I always felt more energetic on very cold days; I guess the
>>> body expends little energy in heat dissipation when it's well below
>>> freezing (temps when snow feels like dense styrofoam). My puny youthful
>>> moustache would be entirely encased in a chrysalis of ice (this was late
>>> '70s and early '80s).
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> --
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>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Jason Fuller]

I find that my Blundstones (double layer model) with cotton socks are good 
to about 35F, and then if I wear wool socks they're good to 25F.  They're 
surprisingly water resistant too, takes at least an hour of steady rain 
before my feet start to get wet, and even then they never end up soaked.  
They're all I wear in colder weather 

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[RBW] Re: Fender for Gus Boots Willsen

[Jason Fuller]

Simworks/Honjo Flat 80's would definitely be my choice.  With a little stay 
bending, you can easily fit 2.8 or 3.0's under them and they'll look the 
part!  

On Monday, 1 February 2021 at 08:17:44 UTC-8 Mark Roland wrote:

> Speaking of instagram, my favorite bike related poster right now is 
> niigata0252 . Lots of pics 
> from vintage Japanese mags. Recent post shows a guy riding a drop bar 
> Cunningham, apparently #7.
>
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:47:17 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Speaking of orange/black, this showed up on Blue Lug's instagram today!
>>
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/CKquVcajH9G/?igshid=r3iwfj240rur
>>
>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 7:29:20 PM UTC-7 Mark Roland wrote:
>>
>>> Ed--I don't think you overlooked them. I think Riv got in a bunch, 
>>> advertised it in the newsletter, and sold out. I got a pair to eventually 
>>> put on my Hubbuhubbuh, because the fenders on that one should come up 
>>> closer to the frame, but can't clear the v-brake cable. However, while I do 
>>> not hate black parts per se, I definitely do not like them on a bright 
>>> orange frame.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 3:45:34 AM UTC-5 Ed Fausto wrote:
>>>
 Hi Mark,
 Thanks for recommending the Origin8 X-tra Pro V-brakes.  I have 
 overlooked this brake set from Riv.
 Will try to check other suppliers.
 Ed

 On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 9:37:43 PM UTC+8 Mark Roland wrote:

> The Dia Compe 980 is a wide profile cantilever, so raising the 
> straddle cable should not degrade the brake performance.
>
> Last week Rivendell had Origin8 X-tra Pro V-brakes for sale. These 
> have 110mm arms, like the Tektro 849a, which are no longer available (you 
> can get them in a couple of places overseas). This should give you enough 
> clearance for fenders. Unfortunately, Riv is sold out. You can get them 
> from other vendors.
>
> For my Clem L, I originally was running Thunder Burts in 2.2 and 
> wanted extra clearance, so I got the biggest 700c fenders from Velo 
> Orange 
> (63mm fluted) and re-radiused them for 650B. This should give you some 
> additional clearance for your 27.5 Gus. VO has instructions on its blog 
> on 
> how to do this, fairly straightforward.
>
> My Susie with Teravail Honcho 2.6" tires, like your Gus, has tons of 
> room in the rear but it is getting close under the fork crown. Still 
> doable, but if I were running fenders I would switch to the file tread of 
> Rene Herse Antelope Hill ( 700 x 55/2.2"). Also, fenders would run afoul 
> of 
> the current v-brakes. Luckily, I have my Clem L if I need to ride in bad 
> weather.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 1:55:44 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Ed,  I have 2.8 tires on wide (34i) rims on my 56/700c Susie and am 
>> trying to figure out fenders too.   I just tried a set of SKS Bluemel 
>> 75s 
>> in case this experience helps:
>>
>> There is plenty of frame clearance, even with a good gap to the 
>> tire.  As seems to be the case with many Rivendells, the tightest spot 
>> was 
>> at the bottom of the fork crown - not at the seat tube or chainstays or 
>> braces, as you'd expect with other bikes.   I don't think I would have 
>> even 
>> needed to notch the rear for chain clearance, but that's a function of 
>> bottom bracket spindle length so YMMV.  However, I did have interference 
>> at 
>> the cantilever straddle wire.   (I used cantis instead of v brakes 
>> specifically because I wanted to run big tires and fenders, which 
>> wouldn't 
>> fit under V-brakes.)  
>>
>> I could solve this and make these fenders work by raising the 
>> straddle wire a tiny bit, but I'm reluctant to becasue I think I have 
>> them 
>> adjusted pretty well for power.  Or I could notch the edge of the fender 
>> to 
>> allow the cable to cut through, but that seems dangerous.   A different 
>> canti arm profile might help too.  (I'm using the Dia Compe 980.) I was 
>> going to try an extra-wide straddle-wire hanger - which would proably 
>> solve 
>> it - but I kind of decided that the black fenders don't look so good on 
>> the 
>> bike.   If you have a different color scheme than me though and don't 
>> mind 
>> black, this may be a pretty good solution.  They're nice looking and 
>> nicely-made fenders - just not like the silver SKS that I'm accustomed 
>> to.
>>
>> My next step is going to be to try the Simworks/Honjo Flat 80 fender, 
>> but they're super expensive so I need to make as many measurements as 
>> possible first.  The advantage of using aluminum will be that I can 
>> deform 
>> them to fit the fork crown better than plastic ones, where the critical 
>> 

Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[rltilley]

I wear sandals when it’s wet/cold. I use Sealskinz waterproof socks with 
however many layer of wool socks I need underneath. 
My feet do sweat but they are warm. I have not SPD sandals and standard sandals 
depending on the bike I grab. Sandals are good because they have enough 
adjustability to allow you to add layers on your feet without being too tight. 

We recently went snowmobiling in Montana/Wyoming and the temps dipped below 
zero which is cold for a SoCal native. In those conditions I did ok but did 
have issues with my feet despite wearing some thick socks and boots that had a 
liner that was supposed to radiate heat back at my feet. Two heat packs in each 
boot solved the problem.

Robert Tilley
San Diego, CA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 31, 2021, at 10:27 PM, Roberta  wrote:
> 
> 
> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and others, 
> too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because the 
> temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when the 
> weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
> 
> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode when 
> it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27* 
> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how to 
> dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on the trail 
> and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
> 
> I highly recommend it!
> 
> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my body.  
> I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I couldn't find 
> my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
> Roberta
> 
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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Patrick Moore]

Will: Can you describe, or give make and model, of your dedicated winter
bike shoes?


Patrick Moore, still hoping for some rideable snow this season, in ABQ, NM

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:39 AM Will Boericke  wrote:

> Dedicated winter bike shoes have been the best money I've spent,
> bike-wise.  Gore-tex and 1/2 size bigger.  Did 2 hours on the mtb in 12
> degrees yesterday, no problem.
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:08:14 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> A not-quite-on-topic, and in any case no longer attainable factor in cold
>> weather warmth is youth. Back when I was in my 20s, youthful hot blood, to
>> use another weird Victorian concept, kept me warm in cold weather. During
>> my 5 years in La Ville de Kebek, I did my 4 miles of running outside in
>> temps as low as -17*F (the high on the coldest day I ran; I went X-country
>> skiiing at 20 below or lower), and my kit was poor-grad-student cheap:
>> regular running shoes over thick wool socks from some sort of Eastern
>> Canadian chain store, thin, cotton Kmart sweat pants, and cotton T shirt
>> under cheap ditto cotton sweatshirt under high quality but very old anorak
>> with peeling water barrier, plus acrylic scarf and *toque,* and cheap
>> fleece-lined leather work gloves. I only ever felt cold on that -17* high
>> day; on most days, I'd peel off scarf and open anorak zipper halfway
>> through my 4 miles, running, not jogging. Interesting, I always felt more
>> energetic on very cold days; I guess the body expends little energy in heat
>> dissipation when it's well below freezing (temps when snow feels like dense
>> styrofoam). My puny youthful moustache would be entirely encased in a
>> chrysalis of ice (this was late '70s and early '80s).
>>
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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> .
>


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---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Will Boericke]

Dedicated winter bike shoes have been the best money I've spent, 
bike-wise.  Gore-tex and 1/2 size bigger.  Did 2 hours on the mtb in 12 
degrees yesterday, no problem.



On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:08:14 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> A not-quite-on-topic, and in any case no longer attainable factor in cold 
> weather warmth is youth. Back when I was in my 20s, youthful hot blood, to 
> use another weird Victorian concept, kept me warm in cold weather. During 
> my 5 years in La Ville de Kebek, I did my 4 miles of running outside in 
> temps as low as -17*F (the high on the coldest day I ran; I went X-country 
> skiiing at 20 below or lower), and my kit was poor-grad-student cheap: 
> regular running shoes over thick wool socks from some sort of Eastern 
> Canadian chain store, thin, cotton Kmart sweat pants, and cotton T shirt 
> under cheap ditto cotton sweatshirt under high quality but very old anorak 
> with peeling water barrier, plus acrylic scarf and *toque,* and cheap 
> fleece-lined leather work gloves. I only ever felt cold on that -17* high 
> day; on most days, I'd peel off scarf and open anorak zipper halfway 
> through my 4 miles, running, not jogging. Interesting, I always felt more 
> energetic on very cold days; I guess the body expends little energy in heat 
> dissipation when it's well below freezing (temps when snow feels like dense 
> styrofoam). My puny youthful moustache would be entirely encased in a 
> chrysalis of ice (this was late '70s and early '80s).
>
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Tom Goodmann]

HI, Ray; I should have included my location; I'll edit my post. I'm in
Miami in zip code 33155.  As I said, a while back I posted this bike for a
slightly higher price and there was no interest in it. Things change!
Well, I'll be happy if it goes to an appreciative new owner, and this is
the best place to find one.  Tom

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 11:36 AM Ray  wrote:

> I have to agree with Chris. I was surprised you weren't asking more for
> it. It looks lovely, and I have been considering adding an honest touring
> bike to my stable (though I certainly don't need another bike). Do you mind
> if I ask where you are located?
>
> Ray
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:12:27 AM UTC-6 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
>> Hi, Chris;
>>
>> I appreciate you writing--guess I should be asking for more for this
>> bike!  I won't refuse a higher offer I've advertised it here before, and
>> there was no interest at that time.  I've really enjoyed it, but am trying
>> to clear out things in every category in life; I have a Sam (55 with the
>> double TT, but I wish it were the next size up that has since been
>> offered), a Legolas, and a Curt Goodrich prototype for the Saluki/650b (the
>> One Bike to Rule Them All). You're right, the Heron Touring does everything
>> well all day long; thanks for sharing that you fit 38s on it--very good to
>> know.  Well, if it doesn't sell, I will take it out on the road again, and
>> try it with a set of Barlow Pass tires!  Tom
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:51 AM Christopher Cote 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road
>>> any more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're
>>> considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that
>>> bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being
>>> the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the
>>> chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.
>>>
>>> I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to
>>> finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the
>>> Heron Road!
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>>>
 I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron
 Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals and
 saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm
 tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser
 (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for weekend
 rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed
 cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour
 front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino
 crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake
 levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or
 dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and
 underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please
 see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with
 care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  
 *$695
 + shipping & insurance*

 There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint
 project between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd Kuzma;
 happy to share them via a PM.

 I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale;
 the two would make a nice pair.[image:
 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]


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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Patrick Moore]

A not-quite-on-topic, and in any case no longer attainable factor in cold
weather warmth is youth. Back when I was in my 20s, youthful hot blood, to
use another weird Victorian concept, kept me warm in cold weather. During
my 5 years in La Ville de Kebek, I did my 4 miles of running outside in
temps as low as -17*F (the high on the coldest day I ran; I went X-country
skiiing at 20 below or lower), and my kit was poor-grad-student cheap:
regular running shoes over thick wool socks from some sort of Eastern
Canadian chain store, thin, cotton Kmart sweat pants, and cotton T shirt
under cheap ditto cotton sweatshirt under high quality but very old anorak
with peeling water barrier, plus acrylic scarf and *toque,* and cheap
fleece-lined leather work gloves. I only ever felt cold on that -17* high
day; on most days, I'd peel off scarf and open anorak zipper halfway
through my 4 miles, running, not jogging. Interesting, I always felt more
energetic on very cold days; I guess the body expends little energy in heat
dissipation when it's well below freezing (temps when snow feels like dense
styrofoam). My puny youthful moustache would be entirely encased in a
chrysalis of ice (this was late '70s and early '80s).


---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Roberta]

All great information.  I'll be reading more carefully tonight.

For me the turning point from only riding in daylight in warm temps,  was 
getting Dyno lighting and wearing a wind breaker under my jacket. 

Andy, take care of those fingers (I know you do)!


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 11:52:12 AM UTC-5 Pete B wrote:

> As Patrick says, roomy shoes and air pockets. The other things help -- 
> boots, toe covers, warmers, extra socks. But only if there is space for 
> warm air around my fingers and toes to begin with. Wearing wool tights or 
> pants also helps keep the blood warm on the way to and fro.
>
> This winter I've been wearing Wiggy's lamilite socks and wool tights down 
> to about 30 degrees with just a pair of Five-Tens and that seems to be good 
> for 1-3 hour rides. I like hiking boots for short rides 25 degrees or below.
>
> For fingers, I like wearing thin synthetic gloves inside thick fleece 
> gloves. When it's really cold in the mid-Atlantic it's usually dry as well 
> so I find a shell isn't needed and my hands breathe better without them. If 
> there is freezing or cold rain on the ride home from work I have a pair of 
> cheap elastic overmitts. They're ok but I find it hard to ride in mittens 
> and these leak at the seams in a heavy rain and don't breathe well. But for 
> the 5-6 times a year I wear them it's fine. If it were much colder here I'd 
> get bar mitts.
>
> Pete
> Arlington, VA
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 11:32:50 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Oh oh! When you buy gloves, buy them at least 1 and perhaps 2 sizes too 
>> big, to keep air pockets at the ends of the fingers when hands are clasped 
>> around bar and control surfaces. This really, really makes a huge 
>> difference in finger comfort.
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 9:16 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> Oh, wool socks and roomy shoes. I ride down to the upper teens, and I've 
>>> used all sorts of wool socks, from bulky utility socks from Canadian chain 
>>> stores to wool dress socks; presently REI's generic merino socks that are 
>>> mid weight but thin enough to fit in my summer bike shoes. Really, though, 
>>> I should have a winter pair of shoes a size larger so that I can get 2 
>>> pairs of socks, thin liner and the wool socks under the shoe without 
>>> pinching -- pinching cuts of blood flow and makes your feet cold. 
>>>
>>> My strategies depend on temperature and time outside. For real cold -- I 
>>> ride down to the upper teens -- and for longer rides, say over an hour, I 
>>> have a pair of Lake winter boots that I wear over a pair of those REI 
>>> socks; they're fine for 2-3 hours outside, especially as you warm up as you 
>>> ride and, even more around here in the high desert, temperatures rise so 
>>> fast once the sun comes up. But for real cold, I do recommend a pair of 
>>> specifically designed winter shoes.
>>>
>>> For temps down to the upper 20s, if I'm going to be outside for no more 
>>> than an hour, my regular summer shoes are alright, with the REI socks; but 
>>> I place between sock and shoe a cut-down bread bag -- ie, heavier plastic 
>>> -- as a wind break. My feet will often sweat, so this is useful only if you 
>>> will not stop mid ride for any length of time.
>>>
>>> My problem with cold is more my hands. I've got a pair of nice PI 
>>> lobster gloves with 3 compartments for 2 fingers each plus thumb; this is 
>>> better than the other design, with 4 fingers, then fore finger, then thumb; 
>>> but not as warm as a mitten; but it gives better control of shifters and 
>>> brakes. I find tightly woven DeFeet knit gloves find down to the upper 30s, 
>>> insert thin silk liners down to about 30, below that use the lobsters with 
>>> or without silks, and finally, have a pair of Outdoor Research mitts to go 
>>> over thick wool mittens. Not very good for brake levers and shifters, but 
>>> then when it gets cold enough for this, I limit my time outdoors.
>>>
>>> Ears also suffer. Faux Peruvian wool or acrylic caps work well; mine 
>>> came from Target. Less dorky is the fleece-lined Highway Patrol-type winter 
>>> had from the movie *Fargo* without a badge that has fleece-lined ear 
>>> covers on flaps that velcro under your chin. Or, I use a lycra balaclava 
>>> under a PI or Walz winter cycling cap. On yesterday's ride to church in the 
>>> low 20s I used the PI under the Leatt jacket's hood, since the hood cinches 
>>> tight to keep it close to your face (to allow you too see sideways), and 
>>> the cap's brim keeps the hood from your eyes when you turn your head. 
>>>
>>> Note: I suffer from what our Victorian ancestors would have called a 
>>> "weak throat:" I easily get sore throats. So I am very careful to wrap my 
>>> neck when temps get below 50*F. I use either a wool scarf cut in half 
>>> longitudinally by a tailor, or a zip-up neck on my Ibex or other cycling 
>>> vests, or a Buff neck gaiter. I find that this really does prevent sore 
>>> throats and, in fact, I 

Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Bill Lindsay]

OK, it came from a shop, not from Rivendell, but we're assuming that it is 
stuff that's supposed to work together.  That's good

There is no particular Left vs Right.  Either one can serve either role.  
 It's just a matter of whether you want the D-rings on the outside or the 
inside.  Since you've swapped things around liberally, can I assume you've 
already swapped the shifters?  Did they both do equally badly when used for 
the rear der?

Next, please describe the "play".  What does this mean?  Do you mean you 
can wiggle the shifter side to side?  Do you mean you can wiggle the 
shifter in it's normal travel direction and it moves a bit before the cable 
starts moving?  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:05:44 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have a complete set. It's the right hand shifter that's causing the 
> problem. 9 speed. I have a double chainring on the front with a granny gear 
> and a 36t big ring. This is setup to avoid shifting the front derailleur 
> too often, so I don't use the left hand shifter enough to say if it's got a 
> major problem. I tried a few different derailleurs, mostly variants of 
> Shimano Deore, but the slipping/ghost shifting persisted. 
>
> The setup is a full Rivendell branded barend shifter set. No cobbling 
> together. I ordered it as a Dia Compe barend shifter set, and the shop I 
> bought it from sent me the Riv set.  
>
> Cheers,
> Johnny
>
> On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 16:27, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> OK one step at a time
>>
>> 1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a problem 
>> or only one?
>> 2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell 
>> Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble 
>> together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end 
>> pods?
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hello RBWers,
>>>
>>> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end 
>>> shifters. 
>>> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this 
>>> out of the box.
>>> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the 
>>> bigger to smaller
>>> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make 
>>> much difference,
>>> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to 
>>> persist. 
>>>
>>> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does 
>>> anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to 
>>> add an additional washer somewhere?
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help,
>>>
>>> Johnny in Belgium
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Pete B]

As Patrick says, roomy shoes and air pockets. The other things help -- 
boots, toe covers, warmers, extra socks. But only if there is space for 
warm air around my fingers and toes to begin with. Wearing wool tights or 
pants also helps keep the blood warm on the way to and fro.

This winter I've been wearing Wiggy's lamilite socks and wool tights down 
to about 30 degrees with just a pair of Five-Tens and that seems to be good 
for 1-3 hour rides. I like hiking boots for short rides 25 degrees or below.

For fingers, I like wearing thin synthetic gloves inside thick fleece 
gloves. When it's really cold in the mid-Atlantic it's usually dry as well 
so I find a shell isn't needed and my hands breathe better without them. If 
there is freezing or cold rain on the ride home from work I have a pair of 
cheap elastic overmitts. They're ok but I find it hard to ride in mittens 
and these leak at the seams in a heavy rain and don't breathe well. But for 
the 5-6 times a year I wear them it's fine. If it were much colder here I'd 
get bar mitts.

Pete
Arlington, VA

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 11:32:50 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Oh oh! When you buy gloves, buy them at least 1 and perhaps 2 sizes too 
> big, to keep air pockets at the ends of the fingers when hands are clasped 
> around bar and control surfaces. This really, really makes a huge 
> difference in finger comfort.
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 9:16 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Oh, wool socks and roomy shoes. I ride down to the upper teens, and I've 
>> used all sorts of wool socks, from bulky utility socks from Canadian chain 
>> stores to wool dress socks; presently REI's generic merino socks that are 
>> mid weight but thin enough to fit in my summer bike shoes. Really, though, 
>> I should have a winter pair of shoes a size larger so that I can get 2 
>> pairs of socks, thin liner and the wool socks under the shoe without 
>> pinching -- pinching cuts of blood flow and makes your feet cold. 
>>
>> My strategies depend on temperature and time outside. For real cold -- I 
>> ride down to the upper teens -- and for longer rides, say over an hour, I 
>> have a pair of Lake winter boots that I wear over a pair of those REI 
>> socks; they're fine for 2-3 hours outside, especially as you warm up as you 
>> ride and, even more around here in the high desert, temperatures rise so 
>> fast once the sun comes up. But for real cold, I do recommend a pair of 
>> specifically designed winter shoes.
>>
>> For temps down to the upper 20s, if I'm going to be outside for no more 
>> than an hour, my regular summer shoes are alright, with the REI socks; but 
>> I place between sock and shoe a cut-down bread bag -- ie, heavier plastic 
>> -- as a wind break. My feet will often sweat, so this is useful only if you 
>> will not stop mid ride for any length of time.
>>
>> My problem with cold is more my hands. I've got a pair of nice PI lobster 
>> gloves with 3 compartments for 2 fingers each plus thumb; this is better 
>> than the other design, with 4 fingers, then fore finger, then thumb; but 
>> not as warm as a mitten; but it gives better control of shifters and 
>> brakes. I find tightly woven DeFeet knit gloves find down to the upper 30s, 
>> insert thin silk liners down to about 30, below that use the lobsters with 
>> or without silks, and finally, have a pair of Outdoor Research mitts to go 
>> over thick wool mittens. Not very good for brake levers and shifters, but 
>> then when it gets cold enough for this, I limit my time outdoors.
>>
>> Ears also suffer. Faux Peruvian wool or acrylic caps work well; mine came 
>> from Target. Less dorky is the fleece-lined Highway Patrol-type winter had 
>> from the movie *Fargo* without a badge that has fleece-lined ear covers 
>> on flaps that velcro under your chin. Or, I use a lycra balaclava under a 
>> PI or Walz winter cycling cap. On yesterday's ride to church in the low 20s 
>> I used the PI under the Leatt jacket's hood, since the hood cinches tight 
>> to keep it close to your face (to allow you too see sideways), and the 
>> cap's brim keeps the hood from your eyes when you turn your head. 
>>
>> Note: I suffer from what our Victorian ancestors would have called a 
>> "weak throat:" I easily get sore throats. So I am very careful to wrap my 
>> neck when temps get below 50*F. I use either a wool scarf cut in half 
>> longitudinally by a tailor, or a zip-up neck on my Ibex or other cycling 
>> vests, or a Buff neck gaiter. I find that this really does prevent sore 
>> throats and, in fact, I wrap my neck in a wool scarf while at home in 
>> winter; wrapping the neck in wool has cured, or at least removed, incipient 
>> sore throats, modern germ theory be damned. (I mean: I believe in germs and 
>> methods to fight them, but I am hardly confident that modern medical theory 
>> explains absolutely everything about human health, since acupuncture and 
>> *traditional* Chinese herbs cured my heart arrhymia 

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Christopher Cote]

I'm curious to see your NOS Heron Road frame. If it's that wonderful 
sparkly blue-green color, it would melt my heart to see it again!

Chris


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 11:36:50 AM UTC-5 Ray wrote:

> I have to agree with Chris. I was surprised you weren't asking more for 
> it. It looks lovely, and I have been considering adding an honest touring 
> bike to my stable (though I certainly don't need another bike). Do you mind 
> if I ask where you are located? 
>
> Ray
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:12:27 AM UTC-6 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
>> Hi, Chris;
>>
>> I appreciate you writing--guess I should be asking for more for this 
>> bike!  I won't refuse a higher offer I've advertised it here before, and 
>> there was no interest at that time.  I've really enjoyed it, but am trying 
>> to clear out things in every category in life; I have a Sam (55 with the 
>> double TT, but I wish it were the next size up that has since been 
>> offered), a Legolas, and a Curt Goodrich prototype for the Saluki/650b (the 
>> One Bike to Rule Them All). You're right, the Heron Touring does everything 
>> well all day long; thanks for sharing that you fit 38s on it--very good to 
>> know.  Well, if it doesn't sell, I will take it out on the road again, and 
>> try it with a set of Barlow Pass tires!  Tom
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:51 AM Christopher Cote  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road 
>>> any more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're 
>>> considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that 
>>> bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being 
>>> the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the 
>>> chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.
>>>
>>> I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to 
>>> finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the 
>>> Heron Road!
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>>>
 I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron 
 Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals 
 and 
 saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm 
 tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser 
 (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for 
 weekend 
 rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed 
 cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour 
 front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino 
 crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake 
 levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or 
 dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and 
 underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please 
 see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with 
 care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  
 *$695 
 + shipping & insurance*

 There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint 
 project between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd 
 Kuzma; 
 happy to share them via a PM.  

 I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale; 
 the two would make a nice pair.[image: 
 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]


 -- 
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Ray]

I have to agree with Chris. I was surprised you weren't asking more for it. 
It looks lovely, and I have been considering adding an honest touring bike 
to my stable (though I certainly don't need another bike). Do you mind if I 
ask where you are located? 

Ray

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:12:27 AM UTC-6 Tom Goodmann wrote:

> Hi, Chris;
>
> I appreciate you writing--guess I should be asking for more for this 
> bike!  I won't refuse a higher offer I've advertised it here before, and 
> there was no interest at that time.  I've really enjoyed it, but am trying 
> to clear out things in every category in life; I have a Sam (55 with the 
> double TT, but I wish it were the next size up that has since been 
> offered), a Legolas, and a Curt Goodrich prototype for the Saluki/650b (the 
> One Bike to Rule Them All). You're right, the Heron Touring does everything 
> well all day long; thanks for sharing that you fit 38s on it--very good to 
> know.  Well, if it doesn't sell, I will take it out on the road again, and 
> try it with a set of Barlow Pass tires!  Tom
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:51 AM Christopher Cote  
> wrote:
>
>> I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road 
>> any more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're 
>> considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that 
>> bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being 
>> the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the 
>> chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.
>>
>> I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to 
>> finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the 
>> Heron Road!
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>>
>>> I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron 
>>> Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals and 
>>> saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm 
>>> tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser 
>>> (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for weekend 
>>> rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed 
>>> cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour 
>>> front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino 
>>> crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake 
>>> levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or 
>>> dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and 
>>> underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please 
>>> see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with 
>>> care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  
>>> *$695 
>>> + shipping & insurance*
>>>
>>> There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint 
>>> project between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd Kuzma; 
>>> happy to share them via a PM.  
>>>
>>> I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale; 
>>> the two would make a nice pair.[image: 
>>> 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/rDuXiCxt-Qo/unsubscribe
>> .
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Patrick Moore]

Oh oh! When you buy gloves, buy them at least 1 and perhaps 2 sizes too
big, to keep air pockets at the ends of the fingers when hands are clasped
around bar and control surfaces. This really, really makes a huge
difference in finger comfort.

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 9:16 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Oh, wool socks and roomy shoes. I ride down to the upper teens, and I've
> used all sorts of wool socks, from bulky utility socks from Canadian chain
> stores to wool dress socks; presently REI's generic merino socks that are
> mid weight but thin enough to fit in my summer bike shoes. Really, though,
> I should have a winter pair of shoes a size larger so that I can get 2
> pairs of socks, thin liner and the wool socks under the shoe without
> pinching -- pinching cuts of blood flow and makes your feet cold.
>
> My strategies depend on temperature and time outside. For real cold -- I
> ride down to the upper teens -- and for longer rides, say over an hour, I
> have a pair of Lake winter boots that I wear over a pair of those REI
> socks; they're fine for 2-3 hours outside, especially as you warm up as you
> ride and, even more around here in the high desert, temperatures rise so
> fast once the sun comes up. But for real cold, I do recommend a pair of
> specifically designed winter shoes.
>
> For temps down to the upper 20s, if I'm going to be outside for no more
> than an hour, my regular summer shoes are alright, with the REI socks; but
> I place between sock and shoe a cut-down bread bag -- ie, heavier plastic
> -- as a wind break. My feet will often sweat, so this is useful only if you
> will not stop mid ride for any length of time.
>
> My problem with cold is more my hands. I've got a pair of nice PI lobster
> gloves with 3 compartments for 2 fingers each plus thumb; this is better
> than the other design, with 4 fingers, then fore finger, then thumb; but
> not as warm as a mitten; but it gives better control of shifters and
> brakes. I find tightly woven DeFeet knit gloves find down to the upper 30s,
> insert thin silk liners down to about 30, below that use the lobsters with
> or without silks, and finally, have a pair of Outdoor Research mitts to go
> over thick wool mittens. Not very good for brake levers and shifters, but
> then when it gets cold enough for this, I limit my time outdoors.
>
> Ears also suffer. Faux Peruvian wool or acrylic caps work well; mine came
> from Target. Less dorky is the fleece-lined Highway Patrol-type winter had
> from the movie *Fargo* without a badge that has fleece-lined ear covers
> on flaps that velcro under your chin. Or, I use a lycra balaclava under a
> PI or Walz winter cycling cap. On yesterday's ride to church in the low 20s
> I used the PI under the Leatt jacket's hood, since the hood cinches tight
> to keep it close to your face (to allow you too see sideways), and the
> cap's brim keeps the hood from your eyes when you turn your head.
>
> Note: I suffer from what our Victorian ancestors would have called a "weak
> throat:" I easily get sore throats. So I am very careful to wrap my neck
> when temps get below 50*F. I use either a wool scarf cut in half
> longitudinally by a tailor, or a zip-up neck on my Ibex or other cycling
> vests, or a Buff neck gaiter. I find that this really does prevent sore
> throats and, in fact, I wrap my neck in a wool scarf while at home in
> winter; wrapping the neck in wool has cured, or at least removed, incipient
> sore throats, modern germ theory be damned. (I mean: I believe in germs and
> methods to fight them, but I am hardly confident that modern medical theory
> explains absolutely everything about human health, since acupuncture and
> *traditional* Chinese herbs cured my heart arrhymia without beta
> blockers).
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 11:27 PM Roberta  wrote:
>
>> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and
>> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because
>> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when
>> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>>
>> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode
>> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27*
>> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how
>> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on
>> the trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>>
>> I highly recommend it!
>> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my
>> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I
>> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>>
>> Roberta
>>
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Re: [RBW] Crash Inspection Advice

[Litho]

Thank you everyone for the advice.  I'm taking it to my local shop for 
inspection.  I just had it painted last year by Rick at D Cycles, so I am 
more than little bummed out by even the cosmetic stuff.  The police are 
treating this as felony aggravated assault, but these are all minors so I 
don't have information on them or their parents, with the exception of one 
of the kids.  I've contacted a good local attorney to see if there is 
anything that I can do within reason.   Surgery tomorrow and then the rehab 
can begin.  I miss riding already!


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 7:23:51 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Sorry to hear about the -- not accident, assault. I hope the police look 
> into the crime and that you get full compensation. As a former (happily 
> former!) insurance salesman who himself went through the compensation 
> process back in 2006 after being sideswiped by a car (fortunately just 
> lacerations and minor damage to the bike) I urge you to make a thorough 
> police report, and claim loss of use, lost wages, and pain and suffering 
> from the OPs or their parents. Liability insurance (for the other parties) 
> is designed to pay out for such claims, if in fact they are covered for 
> what seems on your report to be a crime.
>
> You are legally entitled to full restitution for damage plus the 
> restitution described, so they should pay for "beausage" of all and any 
> sort, including a full repaint as good as the original, or at least cash to 
> cover it. Me, I'd sue the parents if payment was not forthcoming.
>
> Have the frame checked for alignment. Decent shops should have the tool. 
> And also have the dropouts checked; a separate tool. Three weeks ago, an 
> another rider not paying attention hit me hard from behind when I slowed to 
> pull off onto the gravel, hard enough to blow out a rear tire and tube, 
> bend the rear wheel, and put a dent (again, fortunately, very, very small 
> and hard to see) in the right rear seatstay. I had the frame checked and it 
> was fine. (The OP paid, mostly, for tire and wheel rebuild.)
>
> I've been fortunate in that I've never been assaulted (tho' I've come 
> close to assaulting idiots who put me in danger, and am probably lucky in 
> that I haven't been punched), but my brother was riding once in LA and had 
> a kid swing a large metal pipe at him. My brother, no less irritable than 
> I, but 4" taller and probably 25 lb heavier at 6'2" and ~195, turned around 
> and snatched the bar away from the kid, then rode off with it, dumping it 
> on the back of a passing truck.
>
> On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 10:50 PM Litho  wrote:
>
>> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>>
>> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
>> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
>> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
>> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
>> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
>> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
>> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
>> knuckle. 
>>
>> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
>> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
>> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
>> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
>> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
>> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
>> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>>
>> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
>> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
>> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Patrick Moore]

Interesting, because someone else on the boblist recommended nitrile gloves
under outer gloves in cold weather; must try this (have box of 100 with ~94
left sitting in my garage).

Note though that wool will insulate even if wet; very very different from
cotton and even many "wicking" synthetics. Now, it won't insulate as well
as dry wool, but it will retain warmth when wet, which is a huge advantage.

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 4:12 AM Garth  wrote:

> ... I also wear some of those thin nitrile gloves under all may winter
> handwear to keep them warm. They say "single use only/disposable" but they
> are far from it. I take them off inside out and let them air dry. Rinse and
> dry if needed. A pair can last me 3-4 weeks before tearing. I have some 4
> and 6 mil. versions from Ammex and SAS. What the liner gloves do is keep
> the insulation dry and the natural moisture on your hands. Wicking is great
> in the warm but in winter it's not always so if your insulation gets wet.
> It doesn't matter what that insulation is either, cold and wet is cold and
> wet.
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender for Gus Boots Willsen

[Mark Roland]

Speaking of instagram, my favorite bike related poster right now is 
niigata0252 . Lots of pics 
from vintage Japanese mags. Recent post shows a guy riding a drop bar 
Cunningham, apparently #7.

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:47:17 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> Speaking of orange/black, this showed up on Blue Lug's instagram today!
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CKquVcajH9G/?igshid=r3iwfj240rur
>
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 7:29:20 PM UTC-7 Mark Roland wrote:
>
>> Ed--I don't think you overlooked them. I think Riv got in a bunch, 
>> advertised it in the newsletter, and sold out. I got a pair to eventually 
>> put on my Hubbuhubbuh, because the fenders on that one should come up 
>> closer to the frame, but can't clear the v-brake cable. However, while I do 
>> not hate black parts per se, I definitely do not like them on a bright 
>> orange frame.
>>
>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 3:45:34 AM UTC-5 Ed Fausto wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Mark,
>>> Thanks for recommending the Origin8 X-tra Pro V-brakes.  I have 
>>> overlooked this brake set from Riv.
>>> Will try to check other suppliers.
>>> Ed
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 9:37:43 PM UTC+8 Mark Roland wrote:
>>>
 The Dia Compe 980 is a wide profile cantilever, so raising the straddle 
 cable should not degrade the brake performance.

 Last week Rivendell had Origin8 X-tra Pro V-brakes for sale. These have 
 110mm arms, like the Tektro 849a, which are no longer available (you can 
 get them in a couple of places overseas). This should give you enough 
 clearance for fenders. Unfortunately, Riv is sold out. You can get them 
 from other vendors.

 For my Clem L, I originally was running Thunder Burts in 2.2 and wanted 
 extra clearance, so I got the biggest 700c fenders from Velo Orange (63mm 
 fluted) and re-radiused them for 650B. This should give you some 
 additional 
 clearance for your 27.5 Gus. VO has instructions on its blog on how to do 
 this, fairly straightforward.

 My Susie with Teravail Honcho 2.6" tires, like your Gus, has tons of 
 room in the rear but it is getting close under the fork crown. Still 
 doable, but if I were running fenders I would switch to the file tread of 
 Rene Herse Antelope Hill ( 700 x 55/2.2"). Also, fenders would run afoul 
 of 
 the current v-brakes. Luckily, I have my Clem L if I need to ride in bad 
 weather.



 On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 1:55:44 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> Ed,  I have 2.8 tires on wide (34i) rims on my 56/700c Susie and am 
> trying to figure out fenders too.   I just tried a set of SKS Bluemel 75s 
> in case this experience helps:
>
> There is plenty of frame clearance, even with a good gap to the tire.  
> As seems to be the case with many Rivendells, the tightest spot was at 
> the 
> bottom of the fork crown - not at the seat tube or chainstays or braces, 
> as 
> you'd expect with other bikes.   I don't think I would have even needed 
> to 
> notch the rear for chain clearance, but that's a function of bottom 
> bracket 
> spindle length so YMMV.  However, I did have interference at the 
> cantilever 
> straddle wire.   (I used cantis instead of v brakes specifically because 
> I 
> wanted to run big tires and fenders, which wouldn't fit under V-brakes.)  
>
> I could solve this and make these fenders work by raising the straddle 
> wire a tiny bit, but I'm reluctant to becasue I think I have them 
> adjusted 
> pretty well for power.  Or I could notch the edge of the fender to allow 
> the cable to cut through, but that seems dangerous.   A different canti 
> arm 
> profile might help too.  (I'm using the Dia Compe 980.) I was going to 
> try 
> an extra-wide straddle-wire hanger - which would proably solve it - but I 
> kind of decided that the black fenders don't look so good on the bike.   
> If 
> you have a different color scheme than me though and don't mind black, 
> this 
> may be a pretty good solution.  They're nice looking and nicely-made 
> fenders - just not like the silver SKS that I'm accustomed to.
>
> My next step is going to be to try the Simworks/Honjo Flat 80 fender, 
> but they're super expensive so I need to make as many measurements as 
> possible first.  The advantage of using aluminum will be that I can 
> deform 
> them to fit the fork crown better than plastic ones, where the critical 
> clearance point would otherwise be as noted above.
>
> Last option will be to use some Planet Bike 60mm fenders, even though 
> those wouldn't provide full coverage.
>
> Boils down to a lot of trial and error unfortunately, but I can at 
> least confirm that it will be possible in one way or another.   I'm going 
> to 

Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, wool socks and roomy shoes. I ride down to the upper teens, and I've
used all sorts of wool socks, from bulky utility socks from Canadian chain
stores to wool dress socks; presently REI's generic merino socks that are
mid weight but thin enough to fit in my summer bike shoes. Really, though,
I should have a winter pair of shoes a size larger so that I can get 2
pairs of socks, thin liner and the wool socks under the shoe without
pinching -- pinching cuts of blood flow and makes your feet cold.

My strategies depend on temperature and time outside. For real cold -- I
ride down to the upper teens -- and for longer rides, say over an hour, I
have a pair of Lake winter boots that I wear over a pair of those REI
socks; they're fine for 2-3 hours outside, especially as you warm up as you
ride and, even more around here in the high desert, temperatures rise so
fast once the sun comes up. But for real cold, I do recommend a pair of
specifically designed winter shoes.

For temps down to the upper 20s, if I'm going to be outside for no more
than an hour, my regular summer shoes are alright, with the REI socks; but
I place between sock and shoe a cut-down bread bag -- ie, heavier plastic
-- as a wind break. My feet will often sweat, so this is useful only if you
will not stop mid ride for any length of time.

My problem with cold is more my hands. I've got a pair of nice PI lobster
gloves with 3 compartments for 2 fingers each plus thumb; this is better
than the other design, with 4 fingers, then fore finger, then thumb; but
not as warm as a mitten; but it gives better control of shifters and
brakes. I find tightly woven DeFeet knit gloves find down to the upper 30s,
insert thin silk liners down to about 30, below that use the lobsters with
or without silks, and finally, have a pair of Outdoor Research mitts to go
over thick wool mittens. Not very good for brake levers and shifters, but
then when it gets cold enough for this, I limit my time outdoors.

Ears also suffer. Faux Peruvian wool or acrylic caps work well; mine came
from Target. Less dorky is the fleece-lined Highway Patrol-type winter had
from the movie *Fargo* without a badge that has fleece-lined ear covers on
flaps that velcro under your chin. Or, I use a lycra balaclava under a PI
or Walz winter cycling cap. On yesterday's ride to church in the low 20s I
used the PI under the Leatt jacket's hood, since the hood cinches tight to
keep it close to your face (to allow you too see sideways), and the cap's
brim keeps the hood from your eyes when you turn your head.

Note: I suffer from what our Victorian ancestors would have called a "weak
throat:" I easily get sore throats. So I am very careful to wrap my neck
when temps get below 50*F. I use either a wool scarf cut in half
longitudinally by a tailor, or a zip-up neck on my Ibex or other cycling
vests, or a Buff neck gaiter. I find that this really does prevent sore
throats and, in fact, I wrap my neck in a wool scarf while at home in
winter; wrapping the neck in wool has cured, or at least removed, incipient
sore throats, modern germ theory be damned. (I mean: I believe in germs and
methods to fight them, but I am hardly confident that modern medical theory
explains absolutely everything about human health, since acupuncture and
*traditional* Chinese herbs cured my heart arrhymia without beta blockers).




On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 11:27 PM Roberta  wrote:

> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and
> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because
> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when
> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>
> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode
> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27*
> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how
> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on the
> trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>
> I highly recommend it!
> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my
> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I
> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>
> Roberta
>
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> .
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-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, 

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Tom Goodmann]

Hi, Chris;

I appreciate you writing--guess I should be asking for more for this bike!
I won't refuse a higher offer I've advertised it here before, and there
was no interest at that time.  I've really enjoyed it, but am trying to
clear out things in every category in life; I have a Sam (55 with the
double TT, but I wish it were the next size up that has since been
offered), a Legolas, and a Curt Goodrich prototype for the Saluki/650b (the
One Bike to Rule Them All). You're right, the Heron Touring does everything
well all day long; thanks for sharing that you fit 38s on it--very good to
know.  Well, if it doesn't sell, I will take it out on the road again, and
try it with a set of Barlow Pass tires!  Tom

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 10:51 AM Christopher Cote <
christopherjamesc...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road any
> more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're
> considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that
> bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being
> the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the
> chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.
>
> I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to
> finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the
> Heron Road!
>
> Chris
>
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
>> I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron
>> Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals and
>> saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm
>> tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser
>> (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for weekend
>> rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed
>> cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour
>> front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino
>> crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake
>> levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or
>> dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and
>> underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please
>> see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with
>> care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  *$695
>> + shipping & insurance*
>>
>> There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint
>> project between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd Kuzma;
>> happy to share them via a PM.
>>
>> I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale;
>> the two would make a nice pair.[image:
>> 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: Fender for Gus Boots Willsen

[Mark Roland]

Yeah I saw that. It is an attractive build, but, you know, Blue Lug. They 
can do the black bling. But also,  the Susie orange is deeper and richer 
than the Hubbuh orange, and that makes a big difference. I can certainly 
admire bikes built with orange and black, just not my thing!

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:47:17 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> Speaking of orange/black, this showed up on Blue Lug's instagram today!
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CKquVcajH9G/?igshid=r3iwfj240rur
>
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 7:29:20 PM UTC-7 Mark Roland wrote:
>
>> Ed--I don't think you overlooked them. I think Riv got in a bunch, 
>> advertised it in the newsletter, and sold out. I got a pair to eventually 
>> put on my Hubbuhubbuh, because the fenders on that one should come up 
>> closer to the frame, but can't clear the v-brake cable. However, while I do 
>> not hate black parts per se, I definitely do not like them on a bright 
>> orange frame.
>>
>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 3:45:34 AM UTC-5 Ed Fausto wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Mark,
>>> Thanks for recommending the Origin8 X-tra Pro V-brakes.  I have 
>>> overlooked this brake set from Riv.
>>> Will try to check other suppliers.
>>> Ed
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 9:37:43 PM UTC+8 Mark Roland wrote:
>>>
 The Dia Compe 980 is a wide profile cantilever, so raising the straddle 
 cable should not degrade the brake performance.

 Last week Rivendell had Origin8 X-tra Pro V-brakes for sale. These have 
 110mm arms, like the Tektro 849a, which are no longer available (you can 
 get them in a couple of places overseas). This should give you enough 
 clearance for fenders. Unfortunately, Riv is sold out. You can get them 
 from other vendors.

 For my Clem L, I originally was running Thunder Burts in 2.2 and wanted 
 extra clearance, so I got the biggest 700c fenders from Velo Orange (63mm 
 fluted) and re-radiused them for 650B. This should give you some 
 additional 
 clearance for your 27.5 Gus. VO has instructions on its blog on how to do 
 this, fairly straightforward.

 My Susie with Teravail Honcho 2.6" tires, like your Gus, has tons of 
 room in the rear but it is getting close under the fork crown. Still 
 doable, but if I were running fenders I would switch to the file tread of 
 Rene Herse Antelope Hill ( 700 x 55/2.2"). Also, fenders would run afoul 
 of 
 the current v-brakes. Luckily, I have my Clem L if I need to ride in bad 
 weather.



 On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 1:55:44 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> Ed,  I have 2.8 tires on wide (34i) rims on my 56/700c Susie and am 
> trying to figure out fenders too.   I just tried a set of SKS Bluemel 75s 
> in case this experience helps:
>
> There is plenty of frame clearance, even with a good gap to the tire.  
> As seems to be the case with many Rivendells, the tightest spot was at 
> the 
> bottom of the fork crown - not at the seat tube or chainstays or braces, 
> as 
> you'd expect with other bikes.   I don't think I would have even needed 
> to 
> notch the rear for chain clearance, but that's a function of bottom 
> bracket 
> spindle length so YMMV.  However, I did have interference at the 
> cantilever 
> straddle wire.   (I used cantis instead of v brakes specifically because 
> I 
> wanted to run big tires and fenders, which wouldn't fit under V-brakes.)  
>
> I could solve this and make these fenders work by raising the straddle 
> wire a tiny bit, but I'm reluctant to becasue I think I have them 
> adjusted 
> pretty well for power.  Or I could notch the edge of the fender to allow 
> the cable to cut through, but that seems dangerous.   A different canti 
> arm 
> profile might help too.  (I'm using the Dia Compe 980.) I was going to 
> try 
> an extra-wide straddle-wire hanger - which would proably solve it - but I 
> kind of decided that the black fenders don't look so good on the bike.   
> If 
> you have a different color scheme than me though and don't mind black, 
> this 
> may be a pretty good solution.  They're nice looking and nicely-made 
> fenders - just not like the silver SKS that I'm accustomed to.
>
> My next step is going to be to try the Simworks/Honjo Flat 80 fender, 
> but they're super expensive so I need to make as many measurements as 
> possible first.  The advantage of using aluminum will be that I can 
> deform 
> them to fit the fork crown better than plastic ones, where the critical 
> clearance point would otherwise be as noted above.
>
> Last option will be to use some Planet Bike 60mm fenders, even though 
> those wouldn't provide full coverage.
>
> Boils down to a lot of trial and error unfortunately, but I can at 
> least confirm that it will be possible in 

Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Den John]

I have a complete set. It's the right hand shifter that's causing the
problem. 9 speed. I have a double chainring on the front with a granny gear
and a 36t big ring. This is setup to avoid shifting the front derailleur
too often, so I don't use the left hand shifter enough to say if it's got a
major problem. I tried a few different derailleurs, mostly variants of
Shimano Deore, but the slipping/ghost shifting persisted.

The setup is a full Rivendell branded barend shifter set. No cobbling
together. I ordered it as a Dia Compe barend shifter set, and the shop I
bought it from sent me the Riv set.

Cheers,
Johnny

On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 16:27, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> OK one step at a time
>
> 1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a problem
> or only one?
> 2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell
> Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble
> together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end
> pods?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello RBWers,
>>
>> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end
>> shifters.
>> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this
>> out of the box.
>> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the
>> bigger to smaller
>> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make
>> much difference,
>> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to
>> persist.
>>
>> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does
>> anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to
>> add an additional washer somewhere?
>>
>> Thanks for any help,
>>
>> Johnny in Belgium
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 59 Waterford/Riv Heron Touring, complete bike

[Christopher Cote]

I have that exact same bike, and even though I rarely ride on the road any 
more, I wouldn't consider selling mine for twice that price! If you're 
considering a Sam Hillborne, this is 98% a functional replacement for that 
bike. Mine fits an honest 38mm tire, with the undimpled chainstays being 
the choke point. A framebuilder or skilled amateur could easily dimple the 
chainstays, and it would probably clear 40mm tires, maybe even 42mm.

I also had a 58cm Heron Road that was a wonderful bike. I sold it to 
finance an Rambouillet, which is also a wonderful bike, but I miss the 
Heron Road!

Chris

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 6:28:20 PM UTC-5 Tom Goodmann wrote:

> I’m selling a silver (or pewter) Waterford Precision Cycles-made Heron 
> Touring bike in very good condition, including everything except pedals and 
> saddle.  It offers a stable ride with OS downtube, taking up to a 35mm 
> tire.  I have used the bike as a commuter, and for an MS 150 fundraiser 
> (winning laughter from all the carbon fiber riders), as well as for weekend 
> rides.  I’ve replaced the rear wheel bearing cartridges and 7-speed 
> cassette; the rims are Sun CR18s with 32mm Panaracer Pasela tires; Suntour 
> front derailleur; Sachs Centura rear with Shimano bar-end shifters; Sugino 
> crank (50/38/26); Shimano cantilever brakes with Suntour Cyclone brake 
> levers on Nitto Randonneur bars.  The frame is clean, with no dents or 
> dings; there are some paint touch-ups on rear stays (chain suck) and 
> underside from the previous owner; I rate its appearance at 8.5+.  Please 
> see the photo below; I have others to share on request.  I’ll pack with 
> care, and ship via BikeFlights to save costs for any potential buyer.  *$695 
> + shipping & insurance*
>
> There are web pages that give lots of information about this joint project 
> between Rivendell, Waterford, and Ted Durant or, later, Todd Kuzma; happy 
> to share them via a PM.  
>
> I also have a NOS Heron Road frame and fork that I will post for sale; the 
> two would make a nice pair.[image: 
> 4E01C407-99C2-4D62-8C11-37A270D66C75.jpeg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Bill Lindsay]

OK one step at a time

1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a problem 
or only one?
2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell 
Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble 
together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end 
pods?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello RBWers,
>
> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end 
> shifters. 
> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this 
> out of the box.
> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the 
> bigger to smaller
> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make 
> much difference,
> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to 
> persist. 
>
> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does anyone 
> have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to add an 
> additional washer somewhere?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Johnny in Belgium
>

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Re: [RBW] Crash Inspection Advice

[Patrick Moore]

Sorry to hear about the -- not accident, assault. I hope the police look
into the crime and that you get full compensation. As a former (happily
former!) insurance salesman who himself went through the compensation
process back in 2006 after being sideswiped by a car (fortunately just
lacerations and minor damage to the bike) I urge you to make a thorough
police report, and claim loss of use, lost wages, and pain and suffering
from the OPs or their parents. Liability insurance (for the other parties)
is designed to pay out for such claims, if in fact they are covered for
what seems on your report to be a crime.

You are legally entitled to full restitution for damage plus the
restitution described, so they should pay for "beausage" of all and any
sort, including a full repaint as good as the original, or at least cash to
cover it. Me, I'd sue the parents if payment was not forthcoming.

Have the frame checked for alignment. Decent shops should have the tool.
And also have the dropouts checked; a separate tool. Three weeks ago, an
another rider not paying attention hit me hard from behind when I slowed to
pull off onto the gravel, hard enough to blow out a rear tire and tube,
bend the rear wheel, and put a dent (again, fortunately, very, very small
and hard to see) in the right rear seatstay. I had the frame checked and it
was fine. (The OP paid, mostly, for tire and wheel rebuild.)

I've been fortunate in that I've never been assaulted (tho' I've come close
to assaulting idiots who put me in danger, and am probably lucky in that I
haven't been punched), but my brother was riding once in LA and had a kid
swing a large metal pipe at him. My brother, no less irritable than I, but
4" taller and probably 25 lb heavier at 6'2" and ~195, turned around and
snatched the bar away from the kid, then rode off with it, dumping it on
the back of a passing truck.

On Sun, Jan 31, 2021 at 10:50 PM Litho  wrote:

> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>
> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a
> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately
> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the
> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the
> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand
> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have
> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my
> knuckle.
>
> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front
> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is
> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous
> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see
> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on
> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90
> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.
>
> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just
> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just
> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>
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> .
>


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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Crash Inspection Advice

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

I am so, so sorry this happened to you. I cannot overstate this. So, so 
sorry for the suffering you surely are experiencing and the grief about 
your Appaloosa. Shameful behavior on the part of those “kids” and I agree 
that they need to be held responsible. I honestly don’t know what this 
world is coming to. Prayers and blessings to you on your upcoming surgery. 
Please let us know how your surgery goes. Ugh. Again, so sorry.
Leah

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:50:20 PM UTC-8 Litho wrote:

> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>
> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
> knuckle. 
>
> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>
> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Shoji Takahashi]

I suggest gaiters for winter riding. They keep your pants and shoes cleaner 
(from road salt+sand of Boston area and similar climates). I think it keeps 
my feet warmer by keeping my lower legs warmer. 

I have an old set of OR Gaiters. 
https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/gaiters

Good luck!
shoji



On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 9:16:23 AM UTC-5 James / Analog Cycles wrote:

> Keen winter boots with 400 grams of insulation, wool thigh high socks are 
> good for down to say 20.  After that, you need muck boots, wool felt 
> insoles, thick tall wool socks.  At zero or below add toe warmers.  
>
> https://www.muckbootcompany.com/collections/women/products/womens-arctic-sport-ii-mid-navy
>
> -James / Vermont / riding around in 0 degree temps 
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:59:44 AM UTC-5 Robert Blunt wrote:
>
>> Roberta,
>> Hoka makes a pair of gore tex lined winter trainers that are black. I use 
>> those with smartwool socks and that covers it for anything in the 30s and 
>> above.
>> -Robert Blunt
>> Pennington, NJ
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 1:27 AM Roberta  wrote:
>>
>>> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and 
>>> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because 
>>> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when 
>>> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>>>
>>> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode 
>>> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27* 
>>> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how 
>>> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on 
>>> the trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>>>
>>> I highly recommend it!
>>> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my 
>>> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I 
>>> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[James / Analog Cycles]

Keen winter boots with 400 grams of insulation, wool thigh high socks are 
good for down to say 20.  After that, you need muck boots, wool felt 
insoles, thick tall wool socks.  At zero or below add toe warmers.  
https://www.muckbootcompany.com/collections/women/products/womens-arctic-sport-ii-mid-navy

-James / Vermont / riding around in 0 degree temps 
On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:59:44 AM UTC-5 Robert Blunt wrote:

> Roberta,
> Hoka makes a pair of gore tex lined winter trainers that are black. I use 
> those with smartwool socks and that covers it for anything in the 30s and 
> above.
> -Robert Blunt
> Pennington, NJ
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 1:27 AM Roberta  wrote:
>
>> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and 
>> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because 
>> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when 
>> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>>
>> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode 
>> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27* 
>> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how 
>> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on 
>> the trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>>
>> I highly recommend it!
>> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my 
>> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I 
>> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Sam Perez]

I had a similar post. For me I tried so many things , I changed the
cassette and chain to eliminate warn variables. I was using a 9s xt deor
rear dr that I suspect adds to it also I'd check frame alignment. Those
helped although I still experience the occasional ghost shift. Latest
theory is perhaps some rd's have a really tight spring but that somthing I
don't know how to test myself.

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 1:30 AM Den John  wrote:

> Hello RBWers,
>
> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end
> shifters.
> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this
> out of the box.
> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the
> bigger to smaller
> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make
> much difference,
> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to
> persist.
>
> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does anyone
> have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to add an
> additional washer somewhere?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Johnny in Belgium
>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Robert Blunt]

Roberta,
Hoka makes a pair of gore tex lined winter trainers that are black. I use
those with smartwool socks and that covers it for anything in the 30s and
above.
-Robert Blunt
Pennington, NJ

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021, 1:27 AM Roberta  wrote:

> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and
> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because
> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when
> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>
> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode
> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27*
> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how
> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on the
> trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>
> I highly recommend it!
> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my
> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I
> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>
> Roberta
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender for Gus Boots Willsen

[Ed Fausto]

Yup, definitely very slick build.
Now I understand why I cannot find that same brass pulley with the barrel 
adjuster :-)

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 2:38:57 AM UTC+8 iamkeith wrote:

> Ed, 
>
> Cable hanger is an old Dia Compe for mixtes.  Readily available on ebay.  
> I had to add the barrel adjuster and spread it out a bit wider to fit.  I 
> also drilled out the rivet and replaced the chrome pulley with a brass one, 
> just because I had it.  All in all, about 1/2 hour's effort, but SO much 
> more attractive than the unwieldy loop of cable you'd get with a normal 
> canti hanger ( in my opinion).
>
> While I'm at it, here's another piece I fabricated  to keep the rear 
> derailleur cable from rubbing on the kickstand plate and gain a little tire 
> and fender clearance.  I don't know that this was actually necessary, but 
> it was a fun way to appease my ocd.
>
> Tires are V Tire (V Rubber) Speedster 29x2.8.  I'm not sure they make them 
> in a 650bx2.8 that isn't a heavy eBike version, but the tire you want is 
> the Schwalbe SuperMoto 2.8.  Better AND cheaper!  I had the 29x2.5 on my 
> Clem and loved them.  Other than a couple of rim strikes, they were 
> adequate for any trail conditions required of them.  (For dedicated 
> mountain rides, I usually use a different bike.)
>
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 1:47:42 AM UTC-7 Ed Fausto wrote:
>
>> Hi iamkeith,
>> Two questions...
>> 1. What brand/make and where did you get those rear brake cable hanger?
>> 2. What specific model and size are your tires?
>> TIA
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 8:51:48 AM UTC+8 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Ben Mihovk]

I ride in fairly cold conditions...I'm okay down to 15 degrees or so for my 
commute. I'm not on the bike long enough for the toes to go cold most of 
the time. 

On longer rides (15 miles is long for me) in temps in the 20s and 30s, I've 
found it really hard to keep my toes from getting really cold. What has 
worked okay for me is leather boots with a thin wool sock and a thicker 
wool sock over it. From how I understand it, layering and warmth is all 
about creating pockets of warm air between your skin and the cold air. I 
like boots better than sneakers because you have more room (typically) in a 
boot for that pocket of warm air.

I'm very intrigued with this plastic bag business. Going to have to try it.

-Ben

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:27:09 AM UTC-6 Roberta wrote:

> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and 
> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because 
> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when 
> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>
> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode 
> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27* 
> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how 
> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on the 
> trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>
> I highly recommend it!
> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my 
> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I 
> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>
> Roberta
>

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[RBW] Re: The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[Garth]

Some thicker and/or warmer socks will surely help with the warmth  Roberta, 
if you have the room of course ! Your leather sneakers are great for 
blocking the wind. 
The plastic bag thing works well enough but I found I don't like having my 
entire foot wrapped in plastic, it's too slippery and bulky around the toes 
from excess bag ! I started chopping off ends of the bags to make them 
cover half my foot, but the bulk around the toes was still there.  So a few 
years ago I recall doing a double take at those little air filled packing 
tubes you get from shippers, I think they say "AIRplus" on them. About 
7"x4". I thought hmmm.. those would make some nice toe/foot booties. So 
what I did is separate them individually, cut one of the ends off at the 
seam with a scissors. Now carefully use your hands to separate 1, just 1 of 
the long side seams all the way to the other end. You'll end up with 1 side 
and 1 end open, the other 2 in tact. Now you have a nice fitting toe bootie 
that is placed over your socks inside your shoes. It doesn't alter the fit 
at all, and the best thing is your feet don't slide around because the rest 
of your foot isn't covered. I've done this for years and do it with pretty 
much every shoe I wear in the cold winter here in Ohio. Each bootie lasts a 
2-4 weeks before it starts to tear and need replaced, but so what, I have 
an abundant supply furnished from packages. 

Even on shoes that block the wind, these booties add a certain vapor 
barrier effect that helps keep a certain moisture level on your 
toes/forefoot. My feet have never become soaked with these, even when I've 
worn them in too warm of weather. I also wear some of those thin nitrile 
gloves under all may winter handwear to keep them warm. They say "single 
use only/disposable" but they are far from it. I take them off inside out 
and let them air dry. Rinse and dry if needed. A pair can last me 3-4 weeks 
before tearing. I have some 4 and 6 mil. versions from Ammex and SAS. What 
the liner gloves do is keep the insulation dry and the natural moisture on 
your hands. Wicking is great in the warm but in winter it's not always so 
if your insulation gets wet. It doesn't matter what that insulation is 
either, cold and wet is cold and wet. 



On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 2:38:30 AM UTC-5 Tom M wrote:

> I've had good luck with shoe covers as well. I have some Pearl Izumi 
> stretchy ones that fit fine over my Five-Tens. They make a difference on 
> colder days. 
> Happy riding
> Tom Milani
> Alexandria, VA USA
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:55:45 AM UTC-5 Ian A wrote:
>
>> A cool weather ride can be wonderful if you can stay warm in the fingers 
>> and toes. I have found shoe covers effective over cycling shoes. In colder 
>> weather, thick socks inside hiking boots. In really cold weather, plastic 
>> bread bags between the boot and sock - this can lead to sweaty feet if not 
>> cold enough!
>>
>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>
>> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 11:27:09 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
>>
>>> Inspired by the wonderful cold weather rides and pics recently (and 
>>> others, too, on Instagram), I decided I should not stop riding just because 
>>> the temperature is below 60*.  Yes, you read that right.  Pre-Riv, when 
>>> the weather got below 60*, I’d stop riding because it was “too cold.”
>>>
>>> Well, I’ve learned a lot here in the last 3 ½ years.  Last year, I rode 
>>> when it was in the 40’s.  Yesterday and today, I was out in 32* and 27* 
>>> temperatures, respectively, and it was glorious!  I finally learned how 
>>> to dress properly for cold weather riding.  There were less crowds on 
>>> the trail and I was more comfortable than when it’s in the 90’s.
>>>
>>> I highly recommend it!
>>> Also, how do you keep your toes warm?  It was the only cold part of my 
>>> body.  I was wearing leather sneakers and cotton socks (only because I 
>>> couldn't find my wool ones).  Winter temps usually don't often go below 30*.
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Bombadil on its Archetypal Route (loads of photos)

[ascpgh]

Wow Jason, you document a strong case of how much a bicycle can connect you 
with places. The better the places and the better the bike for getting to 
them really increases the demonstrative power of that connection. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:10:31 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Today's Bombadil ride was four hours of steady rain but pretty mild 
> temperatures (still had frozen fingers at one point, but kudos to me for 
> bringing a second set of gloves to switch to when the first were soaked!), 
> and as per the rules, a good mix of long stretches of pavement but also 
> lots of trails and gravel paths too. Apologies these photos are a bit more 
> blurry because I didn't bring the nice camera. 

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[RBW] Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Den John]

Hello RBWers,

I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end 
shifters. 
There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this out 
of the box.
They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the 
bigger to smaller
sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make 
much difference,
even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to 
persist. 

It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does anyone 
have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to add an 
additional washer somewhere?

Thanks for any help,

Johnny in Belgium

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Re: [RBW] Bombadil on its Archetypal Route (loads of photos)

[brendonoid]

Again, thank you for sharing your ride photos. It looks so cold I can 
almost forget it is 40ºC outside...
Can I please ask how the Sugarloaf Basketbag handles the wet weather?

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[RBW] FS: Riv Sweater (M), SaddleSack (Lg), Trunk Sack and Tube Bar Bag

['Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch]

For Sale/or WTT for/toward one, or a pair, of Rene Herse Switchback Hill 
650x48 tires, regular or EL; Or, a nice 26.8 seat post.

Rivendellish things for sale:

*> The Rivendell Wool Sweater*, size Medium

I’ve tried it on, but not worn it — It is too long, I’d need a small. I got 
it from a list member in LA who decided it wouldn’t get much use there.

>From Grant’s Blahg #25 Aug 2 2019 about the sheep and wool:

   
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/aug?_pos=1&_sid=2e8c94d2b&_ss=r

*Long-sleeved, crew neck, VERTICAL RIBS, olive-ish from afar. Clingy, 
because of the VERTICAL RIBS. It will hug you, for better or worse, but the 
VERTICAL RIBS are slimming! Longish body and sleeves. Super tidy, 
non-slouchy looking.*

*“ … a special, lighter weight knit they don't ordinarily do”*

This size sold out by October 2020.

It’s very nice but just doesn’t fit me.

Listed for $130. *$90 net to me*

> *Large Rivendell Saddlesack* in Olive green — Some links:

Sackville SaddleSack Large - Tan 


http://web.archive.org/web/20150214102338/http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bassl.htm

Approximately 17.25" wide, 8.5" tall and 13" deep. Two zippered side 
pockets and two zippered forward-facing pockets. 

Includes removable, matching Kangaroo Pocket. (~10.75”w x 7” tall)

>From one of the old catalog web pages:

*Capacity:*

* Not bulged (imagine): 1700 cubic inches, or 27.8 liters (the British way)*

* Bulged but not ridiculous: 1984 cubic inches, or 32.5 liters*

* The pocket adds about 50 cubic inches, or .82 liters*

Very good to excellent condition. Some minor stains on left at top, slot 
for tombstone was obviously used and some minor scuffs on the bottom

$238 original retail. *$170 net to me*

*> Rivendell “Nigel Smythe” rear TrunkSack* — Big Loafer

In beautiful condition. Tan with brown leather trim and fitments. 

Bought this used but then got one of the newer olive ones to match my other 
bags.

Details from one of the old catalog web pages:

*Cubic inches: 396/ Liters: 6.5*

*31.5cm/ 12.25" long*

*15cm/ 6" wide*

*16cm/ 6.25" tall*

*$90 net to me*

*> Rivendell “Nigel Smythe” round, “tube” handlebar bag* in olive green.

Perfect except for one mark on one of the two strap patches where it was 
attached to a handlebar when I brought it home from Walnut Creek. 
Otherwise, unused.

Dim: 12” wide x ~5.5” diameter

Full length double zipper. Two brass loops to anchor to drop handlebars. 

You can run shock cord (not included) from brass loops to the hoods on drop 
bars to stabilize the bag.

*$50 net to me*

Photos of these things at: 
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0XGI9HKKGT5sc5

Thanks,

David Lipsky

Berkeley, CA

510-451-2737 (cell & txt)

Contact David.Lipsky at Me dot com  PayPal for payment.

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[RBW] Re: Crash Inspection Advice

['Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Each wheel should go into a truing stand to check for distortions and the 
spokes checked for even tension. Either or both wheels may have undergone 
twisting and impact forces. Have a bike shop do this along with checking 
dropout alignment front and rear (which they'll probably do when 
straightening the derailleur hanger).
A scary story! Talk to an attorney -- The parents of the kids may be liable 
for damages in the assault. Be well!!
David Lipsky
Berkeley, CA


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:00:26 AM UTC-8 Litho wrote:

>
> They did get them and they are facing significant charges. I cracked my 
> helmet in the fall, too!  I'm glad it was me and not one of the more casual 
> trail users that got assaulted.  
>   
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 10:39:04 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:
>
>> That's awful!  Did they get the kids?Some way to get a good story!  
>> I'm glad you weren't hurt worse.
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:50:20 AM UTC-5 Litho wrote:
>>
>>> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>>>
>>> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
>>> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
>>> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
>>> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
>>> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
>>> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
>>> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
>>> knuckle. 
>>>
>>> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
>>> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
>>> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
>>> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
>>> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
>>> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
>>> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>>>
>>> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
>>> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
>>> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Crash Inspection Advice

[Joe Bernard]

You're within driving distance so I'd haul it over to RBW for an 
inspection. They're still doing the distancing thing but they'll grab your 
bike from you and let you do a lap around the building on a demo while they 
look at your frame. It's probably find cuz steel, but the damage you 
describe sounds like it tumbled pretty hard. 

Joe Bernard

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:00:26 AM UTC-8 Litho wrote:

>
> They did get them and they are facing significant charges. I cracked my 
> helmet in the fall, too!  I'm glad it was me and not one of the more casual 
> trail users that got assaulted.  
>   
> On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 10:39:04 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:
>
>> That's awful!  Did they get the kids?Some way to get a good story!  
>> I'm glad you weren't hurt worse.
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:50:20 AM UTC-5 Litho wrote:
>>
>>> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>>>
>>> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
>>> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
>>> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
>>> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
>>> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
>>> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
>>> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
>>> knuckle. 
>>>
>>> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
>>> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
>>> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
>>> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
>>> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
>>> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
>>> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>>>
>>> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
>>> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
>>> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Crash Inspection Advice

[Litho]

They did get them and they are facing significant charges. I cracked my 
helmet in the fall, too!  I'm glad it was me and not one of the more casual 
trail users that got assaulted.  
  
On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 10:39:04 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:

> That's awful!  Did they get the kids?Some way to get a good story!  
> I'm glad you weren't hurt worse.
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 12:50:20 AM UTC-5 Litho wrote:
>
>> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>>
>> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
>> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
>> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
>> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
>> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
>> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
>> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
>> knuckle. 
>>
>> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
>> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
>> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
>> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
>> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
>> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
>> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>>
>> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
>> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
>> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>>
>

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