Re: [RBW] For Sale: Bedrock Cairn sandals, Size 13

[Hoch in ut]

You can actually print out the templates, take pictures of your feet on 
them and send it to Bedrock and they’ll tell you which would be the best 
fit. Sometimes it’s hard to tell how much room you need to get a perfect 
fit. They were very helpful. 
I usually wear a size 10, but had to get size 11 in the Bedrock’s. Fit was 
right on. 


On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 6:34:05 PM UTC-6 Danny wrote:

> I sized up on my Bedrocks as well. Another vote for printing out their 
> sizing templates. Wish I had known about those templates before I ordered, 
> would have saved the trouble of exchanging my 11s for 12s.
>
> -Danny
>
> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 6:55 PM Jacob Byard  wrote:
>
>> I’m a 10 wide on the brannock device and wear an 11 in Altras. I’ve got 
>> two pair of Bedrocks in size 11. I believe Bedrock has a sizing template 
>> that you can print out. Love the sandals and have ridden lots of miles on 
>> mine. 
>>
>> -Jacob
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 3, 2023, at 7:48 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> This is quite serendipitous. The strap on my sandals broke today while I 
>> was out on a walk and I was already considering these as a replacement when 
>> they went.
>>
>> How would you consider the sizing compared to what you typically wear? I 
>> tend to be around a 12 in most shoes. I assume they might run big from your 
>> email, though…
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 9:18 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello people — I have a pair of Bedrock Cairn sandals 
>>>  for sale. Looking 
>>> for $45 plus shipping to you. They're the regular Cairn model with the flat 
>>> footbed, size men's 13 / women's 14. Black straps. 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Purchased new in summer of 2020, have worn them a good bit and enjoyed 
>>> them while riding. I've found one size smaller fits me better so I'm 
>>> putting these up. 
>>>
>>> Some wear to the tread, you can see in the photos where the tread has 
>>> been worn flat. If you're curious about sizing you can check out the 
>>> Bedrock 
>>> sizing page and even print out 
>>> an actual size template. 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks! 
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Club Rides On A Racing Platypus

[Ryan]

Nice!

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:12:31 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I really do have the sweetest, cutest story from the Tuesday night women’s 
> ride. 
>
> We had a small group of 7 riders that night. We were several miles in when 
> suddenly from behind, I heard two unfamiliar voices, one belonging to a 
> child, and one belonging to a man. I looked back and was astounded - there 
> at the end of our peloton was an 8 year old girl on a tiny blue Trek bike, 
> wearing her matching blue helmet, blonde hair flying and huge grin on full 
> display. I looked at her father, helmetless and riding his own bike. He 
> wore a look half proud and half sheepish. “This is Braelyn, and she’s been 
> watching you go by every week,” he said. “And she’s been wanting to ride 
> with you; she said, ‘Daddy, Tuesday night at 6:50 they’ll be here.’ And she 
> got ready so she could join you tonight.” I looked at my speedometer…we 
> were riding at over 17 mph. She moved up behind me and another woman fell 
> in behind her. 
>
> “Ok, honey, you listen for when I call out things like stick or hole, ok?” 
>
> “Ok!” she said, flashing a Cheshire Cat grin. And we pedaled on, flying 
> over country roads with our tiny companion and her daddy. She stayed with 
> us for a few miles and then they peeled off after the second set of 
> railroad tracks. I wish I had gotten a photo, but maybe next week we’ll see 
> her again and I’ll get my chance.
>
> I’m sure we were in violation of like 30 club rules but Michigan doesn’t 
> scold you for things like these. Braelyn and her little Trek, legs flying 
> and hair streaming…I doubt we will ever see anything better than her on the 
> Tuesday Night Ride.
> On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 4:38:01 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Delicious!
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 9, 2022 at 3:58 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> ... Some guy will come find me at my vehicle and tell me how I’m doing 
>>> it wrong. After getting lectured about how I could go 25% faster if I had 
>>> this bike and narrow tires, blah, blah, I say, “Well, I just beat you, so I 
>>> don’t think my bike is the problem.”  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Ryan]

Glad this saga had a happy ending!I bet you're relieved

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:20:22 PM UTC-5 Danny wrote:

> Ooops, didn't see your update just before I posted. Glad you got it worked 
> out!
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:16:54 PM UTC-5 Danny wrote:
>
>> I'm curious to hear what ends up resolving the issue. I hope it's as easy 
>> as a new cassette, but I'm most intrigued by it being related to the 
>> elongated hole.
>>
>> Re: alignment tools, after borrowing my friend's Park DAG a handful of 
>> times over a few months, I decided to buy my own tool. Ended up with the 
>> Wolf Tooth one that Stephen linked to. Have only used it once so far, but I 
>> found it to work quite well. Doesn't take up much room in the drawer, and I 
>> don't have to endure the frequent screeching of metal sliding on metal that 
>> I experienced with the Park tool.
>>
>> -Danny
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 7:52 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> George: Thanks for reading along! Yes, the Helicoil seems like a more 
>>> robust solution, I agree. 
>>>
>>> Jason: Noted! If only Riv would bring back those beefy headset presses 
>>> they got a super limited run of a few years ago. Never need one but... they 
>>> seemed awesome. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:21:45 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 Eric, you've *got* to get a DAG alignment tool!  The heavy steel one, 
 avoid the new lighter one. It's a must have for the home mechanic of fine 
 steel frames that do not have replaceable hangers.  I use it every time 
 the 
 derailleur is pulled off for any reason, or if I'm having any stubborn 
 shifting issue - it's amazing how often it's just because the alignment 
 was 
 out slightly. 

 On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 12:17:13 UTC-7 George Schick wrote:

> This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with 
> bike repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay 
> the unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or 
> dropout saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the 
> Helicoil because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order 
> to 
> install the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger 
> better.  Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm 
> not 
> sure how well that would work in this case.
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in 
>> the M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended 
>> installing a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair 
>> the 
>> bolt hole. 
>>
>> I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the replies, everyone. 
>>>
>>> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the 
>>> chain is under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like 
>>> when 
>>> you're in the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. 
>>> But 
>>> no amount of trimming is fixing the issue. 
>>>
>>> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was 
>>> new in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears 
>>> enough to 
>>> wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's 
>>> an 
>>> 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank 
>>> with 
>>> TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel 
>>> (it's 
>>> running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in 
>>> the 
>>> freehub body. 
>>>
>>> The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, 
>>> hard to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try 
>>> to 
>>> move it around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 
>>>
>>> I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. 
>>> That will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the 
>>> process. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>>
 Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
 derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 

 Jim

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:

> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated 
> hole is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  
>
> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have 
> used it 

Re: [RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Danny]

Ooops, didn't see your update just before I posted. Glad you got it worked 
out!

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:16:54 PM UTC-5 Danny wrote:

> I'm curious to hear what ends up resolving the issue. I hope it's as easy 
> as a new cassette, but I'm most intrigued by it being related to the 
> elongated hole.
>
> Re: alignment tools, after borrowing my friend's Park DAG a handful of 
> times over a few months, I decided to buy my own tool. Ended up with the 
> Wolf Tooth one that Stephen linked to. Have only used it once so far, but I 
> found it to work quite well. Doesn't take up much room in the drawer, and I 
> don't have to endure the frequent screeching of metal sliding on metal that 
> I experienced with the Park tool.
>
> -Danny
>
> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 7:52 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> George: Thanks for reading along! Yes, the Helicoil seems like a more 
>> robust solution, I agree. 
>>
>> Jason: Noted! If only Riv would bring back those beefy headset presses 
>> they got a super limited run of a few years ago. Never need one but... they 
>> seemed awesome. 
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:21:45 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>>> Eric, you've *got* to get a DAG alignment tool!  The heavy steel one, 
>>> avoid the new lighter one. It's a must have for the home mechanic of fine 
>>> steel frames that do not have replaceable hangers.  I use it every time the 
>>> derailleur is pulled off for any reason, or if I'm having any stubborn 
>>> shifting issue - it's amazing how often it's just because the alignment was 
>>> out slightly. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 12:17:13 UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>>>
 This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with 
 bike repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay 
 the unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or 
 dropout saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the 
 Helicoil because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order 
 to 
 install the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger 
 better.  Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm not 
 sure how well that would work in this case.

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the 
> M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended 
> installing 
> a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt 
> hole. 
>
> I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the replies, everyone. 
>>
>> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain 
>> is under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when 
>> you're 
>> in the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no 
>> amount of trimming is fixing the issue. 
>>
>> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was 
>> new in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough 
>> to 
>> wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's 
>> an 
>> 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank 
>> with 
>> TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's 
>> running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in 
>> the 
>> freehub body. 
>>
>> The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, 
>> hard to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to 
>> move it around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 
>>
>> I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. 
>> That will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the 
>> process. 
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>
>>> Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
>>> derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>>
 Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated 
 hole is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  

 I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
 Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have 
 used it 
 on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  

 On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
 dropout alignment gauge, also useful:

 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Eric Marth]

Hi CJ: Thanks for this thoughtful response. The teeth on the cassette and 
chainring appear to be in good shape, they aren't very old. The chain I'm 
using is brand new. Also tried an older chain to be sure, both skipped. 

Dropouts were aligned at my LBS with their alignment tools. 

Looks like the cassette lock ring was loose. Installed a different cassette 
and is running without the chain skipping. 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:

> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger 
> will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent 
> that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain skip. 
> Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have you 
> checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 
>
> Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
> sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
> but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
> threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.
>
> If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger alignment 
> tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid for itself 
> many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an expensive, 
> name-brand tool, but it works.
>
> CJ
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Okay, some mild updates. 
>
> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two dozen 
> times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and during 
> nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and the 
> derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test ride. 
> Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>
> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight edges, 
> trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer hanger 
> where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane with one 
> another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still jumps. 
>
> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have so 
> far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
> nicely each time. 
>
> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
> alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
> *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque 
> on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they 
> look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant 
> about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. 
> He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of 
> motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine 
> nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say 
> "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable 
> quotes by notable people. 
>
> There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
> so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
> end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 
>
> I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and shape 
> it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and have 
> worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has sold 
> his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
> messages. 
>
> Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer hanger 
> alignment tool and try it myself in the home shop. Looking at the Park Tool 
> DAG 2.2. This eliminates the hesitancy of other mechanics (I'm not afraid 
> to wreck the bike) and gives me a useful tool to have forever. 
>
> Full options going forward (as I see them, open to suggestions as always): 
>
>- Buy a gauge and adjust it myself until I'm satisfied or I give up 
>and advance to next option
>- Take it to a shop
>   - Go-to shop seems afraid to break my hanger, I don't think that's 
>   going to happen but they are audibly and visibly weary. 
>   - Other shop in town I avoid at all costs and don't want to take my 
>   bikes to them
>- Get a new dropout welded onto the bike
>   - I wouldn't mind doing this but I can't find a builder in my area
>   - Contacted three people. One retired, the other two haven't 
>   responded. 
>- Send it to Rivendell
>   - Grant thinks Mark or Antonio can fix the hanger. Cool!
>   - Grant said to 

Re: [RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Danny]

I'm curious to hear what ends up resolving the issue. I hope it's as easy
as a new cassette, but I'm most intrigued by it being related to the
elongated hole.

Re: alignment tools, after borrowing my friend's Park DAG a handful of
times over a few months, I decided to buy my own tool. Ended up with the
Wolf Tooth one that Stephen linked to. Have only used it once so far, but I
found it to work quite well. Doesn't take up much room in the drawer, and I
don't have to endure the frequent screeching of metal sliding on metal that
I experienced with the Park tool.

-Danny

On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 7:52 PM Eric Marth  wrote:

> George: Thanks for reading along! Yes, the Helicoil seems like a more
> robust solution, I agree.
>
> Jason: Noted! If only Riv would bring back those beefy headset presses
> they got a super limited run of a few years ago. Never need one but... they
> seemed awesome.
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:21:45 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> Eric, you've *got* to get a DAG alignment tool!  The heavy steel one,
>> avoid the new lighter one. It's a must have for the home mechanic of fine
>> steel frames that do not have replaceable hangers.  I use it every time the
>> derailleur is pulled off for any reason, or if I'm having any stubborn
>> shifting issue - it's amazing how often it's just because the alignment was
>> out slightly.
>>
>> On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 12:17:13 UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>>
>>> This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with bike
>>> repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay the
>>> unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or dropout
>>> saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the Helicoil
>>> because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order to install
>>> the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger better.
>>> Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm not sure how
>>> well that would work in this case.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the
 M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended installing
 a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt hole.

 I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well.

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:

> Thanks for the replies, everyone.
>
> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain
> is under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when you're
> in the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no
> amount of trimming is fixing the issue.
>
> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was
> new in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough 
> to
> wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's an
> 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank with
> TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's
> running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in 
> the
> freehub body.
>
> The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole,
> hard to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to
> move it around in my hand, doesn't wobble.
>
> I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette.
> That will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the
> process.
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the
>> derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>
>>> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated
>>> hole is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.
>>>
>>> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park
>>> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have 
>>> used it
>>> on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.
>>>
>>> On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade
>>> dropout alignment gauge, also useful:
>>>
>>> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok
>>>
>>> Jim in Rochester, NY
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>>
 https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> Hey Eric,
>
> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in 

[RBW] Re: Swapping a bulb in a Schmidt Edelux II?

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

Caroline, does this mean you got your Betty back and in working order??? 
(Sorry this is off-topic. But I really have thought about your Betty so 
many times since you had the seized stem…)

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 12:20:08 PM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:

> I would suspect the wiring and connections well before thinking the LED 
> had burned out. Maybe clean and re-connect the wires everywhere you can? If 
> there is a soldered connection in the wire, it may need re-doing? Good luck!
> -Wes
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:07:36 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:
>
>> Dynamo-freaks: anyone ever replace a bulb in their Edelux II light? Mine 
>> was flickering for a while, then went totally out on my ride home last 
>> night. Checked the connection and it's plugged into the hub - but, worth 
>> noting, the hub is a recent replacement!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Eric Marth]

*Today: Progress! *

Thanks again for your replies. Today Wesley and Stephen's replies 
suggesting that it might *not *be the hanger had me scratching my head in 
new and exciting ways. Thank you for your suggestions that I keep 
searching. 

I remembered that back when all this began my friend Tess at A1A bike shop 
in St. Augustine asked if there was play in the freehub body or the 
cassette. I checked both and noticed a very small amount of wiggle in the 
cassette. It seemed acceptable. She recommended that I try a different 
wheel and cassette. I hadn't done this yet and decided today that I'd try a 
wheel swap before purchasing the Park DAG. I'll probably still get one ;) 

This afternoon I removed the wheel, removed the S-Ride 7-speed cassette and 
installed an 8-speed cassette from my parts bin with the same cog 
configuration (11-32). Snugged it up, re-installed the wheel. It was 
raining out and I rode around the neighborhood in my jeans and wool 
Birkenstocks until my pants and shirt were soaked. 

No skips from the chain! Until today all of my dozens of test rides 
resulted in the chain jumping after the first few strokes. I would ride the 
bike out of my shop and start saying, out loud, "Clunk clunk clunk." Then 
the chain would clunk and I'd say a string of words that would get me 
forever banned from this forum. 

This time it didn't happen once. I rode for about two miles around the 
neighborhood in my smallest three cogs, pedaled hard, climbed a hill, 
pedaled out of the saddle. Chain felt and operated like normal. I'll have 
to take it on a longer ride tomorrow to be sure. 

*I believe the cassette lock ring was loose, *introducing movement in the 
cassette. When I say the chain was "jumping" I mean that when I pedaled 
under load the chain would physically slip, clunk loudly and interrupt my 
stroke. I think the chain would slip off of one of the cassette teeth, 
slide for a second, then engage with another tooth. It makes a sharp, loud 
noise that sounds unpleasant and feels wrong under your feet. 

The lock ring must have come loose during the fall and subsequent mangling 
of the derailer and hanger. 

I wish I'd listened to Tess right out of the gate, I would have been much 
further along if I had. It would seem my hand and eye derailer alignment 
skills are passable. 

I currently have a Deore XT derailer installed. I much prefer the classical 
looks of the Suntour Cyclone but I'm going to leave the XT installed for 
the shakeout period. 

Thanks again to everyone for the help, encouragement, kind words and 
collective brainpower! 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:52:56 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:

> George: Thanks for reading along! Yes, the Helicoil seems like a more 
> robust solution, I agree. 
>
> Jason: Noted! If only Riv would bring back those beefy headset presses 
> they got a super limited run of a few years ago. Never need one but... they 
> seemed awesome. 
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:21:45 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> Eric, you've *got* to get a DAG alignment tool!  The heavy steel one, 
>> avoid the new lighter one. It's a must have for the home mechanic of fine 
>> steel frames that do not have replaceable hangers.  I use it every time the 
>> derailleur is pulled off for any reason, or if I'm having any stubborn 
>> shifting issue - it's amazing how often it's just because the alignment was 
>> out slightly. 
>>
>> On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 12:17:13 UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>>
>>> This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with bike 
>>> repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay the 
>>> unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or dropout 
>>> saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the Helicoil 
>>> because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order to install 
>>> the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger better.  
>>> Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm not sure how 
>>> well that would work in this case.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the 
 M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended installing 
 a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt hole. 

 I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:

> Thanks for the replies, everyone. 
>
> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain 
> is under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when 
> you're 
> in the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no 
> amount of trimming is fixing the issue. 
>
> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was 
> new in summer of 

Re: [RBW] Re: Club Rides On A Racing Platypus

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

I really do have the sweetest, cutest story from the Tuesday night women’s 
ride. 

We had a small group of 7 riders that night. We were several miles in when 
suddenly from behind, I heard two unfamiliar voices, one belonging to a 
child, and one belonging to a man. I looked back and was astounded - there 
at the end of our peloton was an 8 year old girl on a tiny blue Trek bike, 
wearing her matching blue helmet, blonde hair flying and huge grin on full 
display. I looked at her father, helmetless and riding his own bike. He 
wore a look half proud and half sheepish. “This is Braelyn, and she’s been 
watching you go by every week,” he said. “And she’s been wanting to ride 
with you; she said, ‘Daddy, Tuesday night at 6:50 they’ll be here.’ And she 
got ready so she could join you tonight.” I looked at my speedometer…we 
were riding at over 17 mph. She moved up behind me and another woman fell 
in behind her. 

“Ok, honey, you listen for when I call out things like stick or hole, ok?” 

“Ok!” she said, flashing a Cheshire Cat grin. And we pedaled on, flying 
over country roads with our tiny companion and her daddy. She stayed with 
us for a few miles and then they peeled off after the second set of 
railroad tracks. I wish I had gotten a photo, but maybe next week we’ll see 
her again and I’ll get my chance.

I’m sure we were in violation of like 30 club rules but Michigan doesn’t 
scold you for things like these. Braelyn and her little Trek, legs flying 
and hair streaming…I doubt we will ever see anything better than her on the 
Tuesday Night Ride.
On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 4:38:01 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Delicious!
>
> On Fri, Sep 9, 2022 at 3:58 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> ... Some guy will come find me at my vehicle and tell me how I’m doing it 
>> wrong. After getting lectured about how I could go 25% faster if I had this 
>> bike and narrow tires, blah, blah, I say, “Well, I just beat you, so I 
>> don’t think my bike is the problem.”  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Eric Marth]

George: Thanks for reading along! Yes, the Helicoil seems like a more 
robust solution, I agree. 

Jason: Noted! If only Riv would bring back those beefy headset presses they 
got a super limited run of a few years ago. Never need one but... they 
seemed awesome. 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:21:45 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:

> Eric, you've *got* to get a DAG alignment tool!  The heavy steel one, 
> avoid the new lighter one. It's a must have for the home mechanic of fine 
> steel frames that do not have replaceable hangers.  I use it every time the 
> derailleur is pulled off for any reason, or if I'm having any stubborn 
> shifting issue - it's amazing how often it's just because the alignment was 
> out slightly. 
>
> On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 12:17:13 UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>
>> This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with bike 
>> repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay the 
>> unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or dropout 
>> saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the Helicoil 
>> because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order to install 
>> the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger better.  
>> Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm not sure how 
>> well that would work in this case.
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the 
>>> M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended installing 
>>> a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt hole. 
>>>
>>> I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for the replies, everyone. 

 A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain 
 is under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when you're 
 in the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no 
 amount of trimming is fixing the issue. 

 I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was 
 new in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough 
 to 
 wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's an 
 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank with 
 TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's 
 running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in 
 the 
 freehub body. 

 The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, 
 hard to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to 
 move it around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 

 I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. That 
 will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the process. 

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:

> Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
> derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 
>
> Jim
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated 
>> hole is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  
>>
>> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
>> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used 
>> it 
>> on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  
>>
>> On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
>> dropout alignment gauge, also useful:
>>
>> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok
>>
>> Jim in Rochester, NY
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>>
 Hey Eric,

 Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
 sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others 
 for 
 getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
 yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it 
 references to 
 the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I 
 bought 
 after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 

 I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else 
 going on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only 
 noticeable that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer 

Re: [RBW] For Sale: Bedrock Cairn sandals, Size 13

[Eric Marth]

Hey Ted — I wear an 11.5 EEE when sizing allows. A lot of production shoes 
don't do it for me. A size 45 regular in Birkenstocks suits me. I'd 
recommend printing out the sizing template in my original post to be sure. 
I sized up for width and got a footbed that was longer than ideal. 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 8:34:05 PM UTC-4 Danny wrote:

> I sized up on my Bedrocks as well. Another vote for printing out their 
> sizing templates. Wish I had known about those templates before I ordered, 
> would have saved the trouble of exchanging my 11s for 12s.
>
> -Danny
>
> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 6:55 PM Jacob Byard  wrote:
>
>> I’m a 10 wide on the brannock device and wear an 11 in Altras. I’ve got 
>> two pair of Bedrocks in size 11. I believe Bedrock has a sizing template 
>> that you can print out. Love the sandals and have ridden lots of miles on 
>> mine. 
>>
>> -Jacob
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 3, 2023, at 7:48 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> This is quite serendipitous. The strap on my sandals broke today while I 
>> was out on a walk and I was already considering these as a replacement when 
>> they went.
>>
>> How would you consider the sizing compared to what you typically wear? I 
>> tend to be around a 12 in most shoes. I assume they might run big from your 
>> email, though…
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 9:18 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello people — I have a pair of Bedrock Cairn sandals 
>>>  for sale. Looking 
>>> for $45 plus shipping to you. They're the regular Cairn model with the flat 
>>> footbed, size men's 13 / women's 14. Black straps. 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Purchased new in summer of 2020, have worn them a good bit and enjoyed 
>>> them while riding. I've found one size smaller fits me better so I'm 
>>> putting these up. 
>>>
>>> Some wear to the tread, you can see in the photos where the tread has 
>>> been worn flat. If you're curious about sizing you can check out the 
>>> Bedrock 
>>> sizing page and even print out 
>>> an actual size template. 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks! 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/de78dc55-edb7-4437-a6e3-7a26a6ad681an%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>> -- 
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1BE8132A-EE79-4A37-AE6D-BE805933D681%40gmail.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] For Sale: Bedrock Cairn sandals, Size 13

[Danny]

I sized up on my Bedrocks as well. Another vote for printing out their
sizing templates. Wish I had known about those templates before I ordered,
would have saved the trouble of exchanging my 11s for 12s.

-Danny

On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 6:55 PM Jacob Byard  wrote:

> I’m a 10 wide on the brannock device and wear an 11 in Altras. I’ve got
> two pair of Bedrocks in size 11. I believe Bedrock has a sizing template
> that you can print out. Love the sandals and have ridden lots of miles on
> mine.
>
> -Jacob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 3, 2023, at 7:48 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>
> 
> This is quite serendipitous. The strap on my sandals broke today while I
> was out on a walk and I was already considering these as a replacement when
> they went.
>
> How would you consider the sizing compared to what you typically wear? I
> tend to be around a 12 in most shoes. I assume they might run big from your
> email, though…
>
> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 9:18 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> Hello people — I have a pair of Bedrock Cairn sandals
>>  for sale. Looking
>> for $45 plus shipping to you. They're the regular Cairn model with the flat
>> footbed, size men's 13 / women's 14. Black straps.
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Purchased new in summer of 2020, have worn them a good bit and enjoyed
>> them while riding. I've found one size smaller fits me better so I'm
>> putting these up.
>>
>> Some wear to the tread, you can see in the photos where the tread has
>> been worn flat. If you're curious about sizing you can check out the Bedrock
>> sizing page and even print out
>> an actual size template.
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/de78dc55-edb7-4437-a6e3-7a26a6ad681an%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
> --
> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> 
> .
>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Jason Fuller]

Eric, you've *got* to get a DAG alignment tool!  The heavy steel one, avoid 
the new lighter one. It's a must have for the home mechanic of fine steel 
frames that do not have replaceable hangers.  I use it every time the 
derailleur is pulled off for any reason, or if I'm having any stubborn 
shifting issue - it's amazing how often it's just because the alignment was 
out slightly. 

On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 12:17:13 UTC-7 George Schick wrote:

> This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with bike 
> repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay the 
> unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or dropout 
> saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the Helicoil 
> because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order to install 
> the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger better.  
> Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm not sure how 
> well that would work in this case.
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the 
>> M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended installing 
>> a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt hole. 
>>
>> I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the replies, everyone. 
>>>
>>> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain is 
>>> under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when you're in 
>>> the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no amount 
>>> of trimming is fixing the issue. 
>>>
>>> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was new 
>>> in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough to 
>>> wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's an 
>>> 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank with 
>>> TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's 
>>> running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in the 
>>> freehub body. 
>>>
>>> The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, 
>>> hard to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to 
>>> move it around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 
>>>
>>> I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. That 
>>> will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the process. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>>
 Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
 derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 

 Jim

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:

> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated 
> hole is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  
>
> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used 
> it 
> on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  
>
> On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
> dropout alignment gauge, also useful:
>
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok
>
> Jim in Rochester, NY
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>
>> https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Eric,
>>>
>>> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
>>> sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others 
>>> for 
>>> getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
>>> yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it 
>>> references to 
>>> the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I 
>>> bought 
>>> after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 
>>>
>>> I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else 
>>> going on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only 
>>> noticeable that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go 
>>> into 
>>> the wheel. may depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the 
>>> derailer 
>>> may have any wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in 
>>> another derailer or chain to test the system? 
>>>
>>> I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching 
>>> the final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which 
>>> would be 
>>> time consuming 

Re: [RBW] For Sale: Bedrock Cairn sandals, Size 13

[Jacob Byard]

I’m a 10 wide on the brannock device and wear an 11 in Altras. I’ve got two pair of Bedrocks in size 11. I believe Bedrock has a sizing template that you can print out. Love the sandals and have ridden lots of miles on mine. -JacobSent from my iPhoneOn Aug 3, 2023, at 7:48 PM, Ted W  wrote:This is quite serendipitous. The strap on my sandals broke today while I was out on a walk and I was already considering these as a replacement when they went.How would you consider the sizing compared to what you typically wear? I tend to be around a 12 in most shoes. I assume they might run big from your email, though…On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 9:18 AM Eric Marth  wrote:Hello people — I have a pair of Bedrock Cairn sandals for sale. Looking for $45 plus shipping to you. They're the regular Cairn model with the flat footbed, size men's 13 / women's 14. Black straps. Purchased new in summer of 2020, have worn them a good bit and enjoyed them while riding. I've found one size smaller fits me better so I'm putting these up. Some wear to the tread, you can see in the photos where the tread has been worn flat. If you're curious about sizing you can check out the Bedrock sizing page and even print out an actual size template. Thanks! 



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-- Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >



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[RBW] Re: FS: Discord Stems, 1 RH Oracle Ridge 700c x 48 Endurance tire

[greenteadrinkers]

Stems are all sold.

The Oracle Ridge is still available, $65 +shipping

RH Oracle Ridge (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
Condition: Nearly New (installed tubeless, rode around the block, 
uninstalled)
$65 +Shipping

Thanks!
Scott
On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 5:57:13 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> Bump.
>
> Discord w(Right) Quill Stem - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
> Condition: Very Good
> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem
> $100 +Shipping
>
> Discord Peeper Threadless Stem - 30mm
> Condition: Excellent
> 
> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-components-peeper-stem 
> 
> $120 +Shipping
>
> Discord Chromo Creemee Threadless Stem - 0mm Clear Coat
> Condition: Very Good
> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-creemee-coming-soon
> $120 +Shipping.
>
> RH Oracle Ridge (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
> Condition: Nearly New (installed tubeless, rode around the block, 
> uninstalled)
> $70 +Shipping
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 3:43:34 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> Some price drops:
>>
>> Discord w(Right) Quill Stem - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
>> Condition: Very Good
>> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem
>> $125 +Shipping
>>
>> Discord Peeper Threadless Stem - 30mm
>> Condition: Excellent
>> 
>> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-components-peeper-stem 
>> 
>> $140 +Shipping
>>
>> Discord Chromo Creemee Threadless Stem - 0mm Clear Coat
>> Condition: Very Good
>> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-creemee-coming-soon
>> $140 +Shipping.
>>
>> RH Oracle Ridge (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
>> Condition: Nearly New (installed tubeless, rode around the block, 
>> uninstalled)
>> $75 +Shipping
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 2:03:30 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> *Sold*
>>> *Small Fabio's Chest - CLASSIC WAXED - (includes Pec Dec V1, selling as 
>>> a set)*
>>>
>>> *Sold*
>>> *RH Oracle Ridge* (pair) 700c x 48 Standard tires.
>>>
>>> *Still Available:*
>>>
>>> *Discord w(Right) Quill Stem* - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
>>> Condition: Very Good
>>> Some light rust blemishes (which happens with the clear coat, although 
>>> James removed that caveat from the product page). Also Installed on my 
>>> SimpleOne, maybe a little over 50 miles of actual use. About 9 cm's from 
>>> the base of the stem this a visible grove cut into the clear coat that's 
>>> half the diameter of the stem.
>>> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem
>>> $195 new
>>> *asking* *$145+ Shipping*.
>>>
>>> *Discord Peeper Threadless Stem* - 30mm
>>> (currently out of stock at Analog)
>>> Condition: Excellent
>>>
>>> Installed on the Moonshiner, no hard ridding only green and blue trails 
>>> and easy local single track, maybe 100 miles total.
>>> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-components-peeper-stem
>>> $185 new
>>> asking $150+ Shipping.
>>> *Price drop $145+ Shipping.*
>>>
>>> *Discord Chromo Creemee* *Threadless Stem *- 0mm Clear Coat
>>> (currently out of stock at Analog)
>>> Condition: Excellent / Very Good
>>>
>>> Some very light blemishes in the clear coat, you need to hold it under a 
>>> light to clearly see. Installed on the Moonshiner, no hard ridding only 
>>> green and blue trails and easy local single track, maybe 100 miles total. 
>>> https://analogcycles.com/products/discord-chromo-creemee-coming-soon
>>> $195 new
>>> asking $150+ Shipping.
>>> *Price drop $145+ Shipping.*
>>>
>>> *RH Oracle Ridge* (1) 700c x 48 Endurance Casing tire.
>>> Condition: Excellent
>>> Needed to replace a standard casing OR on my Sam, and asked my LBS to 
>>> swap out the tire, oddly the Endurance casing sits wider than the standard 
>>> casing, which ended up being a no-go for the Sam. The tire was installed 
>>> tubeless and test rode in the parking lot, it's about as close to new as 
>>> you'll find used.
>>> $109 new, (that includes the $17 shipping fee from RH)
>>> asking $80+ Shipping (price is for 1 tire, not a pair)
>>> *Price drop **$75+ Shipping (price is for 1 tire, not a pair)*
>>> On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 1:18:24 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>>>
 *Sold*
 *RH Oracle Ridge* (pair) 700c x 48 Standard tires.

 On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 12:53:25 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> DM for pictures, I'll respond as soon as possible. This is my first 
> time posting stuff for sale, so please bear with me.
>
> Thanks! 
> Scott in Amherst MA
>
> *Discord w(Right) Quill Stem* - 0mm Ceramic Clear Coat 
> Condition: VG/VG-
> Some light rust blemishes (which happens with the clear coat, although 
> James removed that caveat from the product page). Also Installed on my 
> SimpleOne, maybe a 

[RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[Jim Whorton]

I had the same thing John P describes, tire rotating in rim, tugging the 
tube along, causing the valve to tilt then tear at the base.  I also had it 
happen twice in a day until I decided I was running the tires at too low a 
pressure.  Increasing PSI solved the problem.  

Jim in Rochester NY

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 4:13:13 PM UTC-4 John P. in SF wrote:

> Hi.
>
> If what is happening to you is what happened to me, your tire is rotating 
> on the rim. 
>
> This sometimes happened when I was using an undersized tube like Patrick 
> M. mentioned, but it happened a lot to me when using modern tires on older 
> rims, and less when using a tubeless compatible rim. Flats generally 
> occurred when riding somewhere that involved heavy braking, and occurred on 
> around three different bikes I have or have had. Like the one time I got a 
> front flat at this spot 
> .
>   
> I sometimes speculate that the rim heating up somehow aids with making the 
> tire rotate, which then tears the stem, but that is just a guess.
>
> Moving to a tubeless setup was the only cure I found.
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:54:21 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>
>> Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but 
>> didn't want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one. 
>>
>> My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I saw 
>> that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner tube. 
>> No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but within 
>> 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced the 
>> tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same 
>> thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone. 
>>
>> I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for 
>> narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.
>>
>> The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.
>>
>> But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always 
>> do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02 
>> cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not 
>> too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or 
>> bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low. 
>>
>> I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a 
>> no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe 
>> Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws, 
>> metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many, 
>> many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent 
>> condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred, 
>> and there was nothing remarkable on the road.
>>
>> But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm stumped. 
>> I don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about the saying 
>> (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing over and 
>> over again and expecting different results."
>>
>> I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can 
>> share. 
>>
>> Thanks!!
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_8384.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[John P. in SF]

Hi.

If what is happening to you is what happened to me, your tire is rotating 
on the rim. 

This sometimes happened when I was using an undersized tube like Patrick M. 
mentioned, but it happened a lot to me when using modern tires on older 
rims, and less when using a tubeless compatible rim. Flats generally 
occurred when riding somewhere that involved heavy braking, and occurred on 
around three different bikes I have or have had. Like the one time I got a 
front flat at this spot 
.
  
I sometimes speculate that the rim heating up somehow aids with making the 
tire rotate, which then tears the stem, but that is just a guess.

Moving to a tubeless setup was the only cure I found.

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:54:21 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:

> Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but didn't 
> want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one. 
>
> My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I saw 
> that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner tube. 
> No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but within 
> 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced the 
> tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same 
> thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone. 
>
> I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for 
> narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.
>
> The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.
>
> But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always 
> do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02 
> cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not 
> too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or 
> bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low. 
>
> I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a 
> no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe 
> Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws, 
> metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many, 
> many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent 
> condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred, 
> and there was nothing remarkable on the road.
>
> But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm stumped. I 
> don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about the saying 
> (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing over and 
> over again and expecting different results."
>
> I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can share. 
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Jim
>
>
> [image: IMG_8384.jpg]
>

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[RBW] WTB: 61 cm Toyo or Waterford Atlantis

[James]

I (and the rest of the world) want to buy a 61 cm Toyo or Waterford 
Atlantis.  Cash in hand.  Frame/fork or complete.  Live in Western NC but 
drive up to New England on occasion, and also happy to use shipping.  
Thanks, James

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Re: [RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[Patrick Moore]

#1: tubes degrade with age. My experience says "no," at least gauging "age"
by single decades. Pre-sealant I routinely rode tubes with up to 3 dozen
patches accumulated over many years and they worked as well as new tubes.
If a tube was 50 years old I'd look at it more than quickly and casually,
but "old" applied to tubes, IME, is a very generous term.

#2. Skinny tubes in fatter tires. For a while I used 23-25 mm tubes in 42
mm tires and they worked well. The skinnies were ultralights, too. "Well"
instead of "perfectly" because my use involved sealants and OS regular did
not seal as well in a skinny tube against a goathead puncture as well as it
does a 40 mm tube, also extralight -- the stretching must make the hole a
bit bigger.

But since punctures sans goatheads are, glass-strewn dowtown streets apart,
so rare, skinnies in fatters can work well. (I've used 1" tubes in 2" tires
and 26" tubes in 29" tires, briefly but successfully.

Back to the initial query: IME, bad manufacturing can be a cause of such
splits, but the OP had the problem with several different makes.

On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 12:10 PM Brian Turner  wrote:

> These type of flats are basically the only flats I've received in the past
> decade or so - mostly because I am very particular and adamant about
> checking my air pressures before riding. As such, it has caused me to
> retain tubes for probably longer than most folks, and I'm assuming that has
> in turn led to issues with the tubes degrading there at the base of the
> valve stems. That said, it is very odd that you had three such flats in the
> same ride... very curious. I'm sorry that happened to you, and hopefully
> you can find the source of the issue!
>

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[George Schick]

This is one of the more interesting posts/threads having to do with bike 
repairs that has come along in awhile (with no intention to downplay the 
unfortunate accident!).  I like the final post about a Helicoil or dropout 
saver recommendation.  My own preference would likely be the Helicoil 
because you have to tap in new larger diameter threads in order to install 
the coil, which seems like it would stabilize the damaged hanger better.  
Having view the dropout saver at the Wheels Mfg. website, I'm not sure how 
well that would work in this case.

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:21:37 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the 
> M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended installing 
> a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt hole. 
>
> I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the replies, everyone. 
>>
>> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain is 
>> under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when you're in 
>> the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no amount 
>> of trimming is fixing the issue. 
>>
>> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was new 
>> in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough to 
>> wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's an 
>> 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank with 
>> TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's 
>> running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in the 
>> freehub body. 
>>
>> The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, hard 
>> to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to move it 
>> around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 
>>
>> I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. That 
>> will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the process. 
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>
>>> Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
>>> derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>>
 Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated hole 
 is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  

 I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
 Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used 
 it 
 on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  

 On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
 dropout alignment gauge, also useful:

 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok

 Jim in Rochester, NY

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>
>> Hey Eric,
>>
>> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
>> sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others 
>> for 
>> getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
>> yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references 
>> to 
>> the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I 
>> bought 
>> after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 
>>
>> I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else 
>> going on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only 
>> noticeable that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go 
>> into 
>> the wheel. may depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the 
>> derailer 
>> may have any wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in 
>> another derailer or chain to test the system? 
>>
>> I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching 
>> the final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would 
>> be 
>> time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would 
>> do 
>> that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 
>>
>> -stephen
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:
>>
>>> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur 
>>> hanger will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is 
>>> so 
>>> bent that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the 
>>> chain 
>>> skip. Skipping chains are caused by worn or 

[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[Rick Harries]

And if you decide to repair it in some way, consider moving it to the rear 
wheel. Less drama if it fails in the future. 

Rick Harries
Easton, Maryland

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 12:13:50 PM UTC-4 John S wrote:

> I have had good luck covering smallish cuts with Gorilla Tape on the 
> inside of the tire.
>
> I was able to successfully repair a tire with a larger slice in it using a 
> very inexpensive radial tire patch kit (I used this one: 
> https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/tire-maintenance/tire-repair-products/8023916).
>  
> I was even able to continue running that tire tubeless.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:30:56 AM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> Because the slice is below the knobs, I'd try sewing it up with a stout 
>> nylon thread, covering the thread with a wipe of Shoegoo (inside and out) 
>> and a tri-folded Clifbar wrapper (tough material) on the inside between the 
>> tube and tire. This has worked well for me when living in countries where 
>> tires were hard to come by.
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:21:37 AM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:
>>
>>> That cut looks a bit large. You could try a tyre boot cut from an old 
>>> slick tyre to see if the casing continues to herniate with the boot inside 
>>> it. Or you could try a tubeless repair kit. I've used the Hutchinson 
>>> Rep'Air kit on both tubeless and tubed punctures, but the cuts I fixed were 
>>> not quite that large. I think the instructions with the Hutchinson claim it 
>>> can be used on punctures up to 5mm size.
>>>
>>> Nick Payne
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[Ian]

I have had similar issues on a one bike. it turned out that the tires which
where a tight fit developed a split. So as you inflate opens traps you tube
and down she goes.

On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 2:10 PM Brian Turner  wrote:

> These type of flats are basically the only flats I've received in the past
> decade or so - mostly because I am very particular and adamant about
> checking my air pressures before riding. As such, it has caused me to
> retain tubes for probably longer than most folks, and I'm assuming that has
> in turn led to issues with the tubes degrading there at the base of the
> valve stems. That said, it is very odd that you had three such flats in the
> same ride... very curious. I'm sorry that happened to you, and hopefully
> you can find the source of the issue!
>
> On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 1:49 PM J J  wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Ryan. Yes, the narrower tube got me home, but by that point it
>> was only a short 1.5 miles away. I'm not confident that the narrow tube
>> will be ok on a greater distance because I burned through three tubes of
>> varying makes and specs. I'm riding different wheels until I sort this out.
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:37:36 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> I'll be interested to hear what others say about this...I should check
>>> my X0-1's inner tubes  which has been plagued with mysterious flats and at
>>> no time have I been able to find anything embedded in the tire or issues
>>> with the rim i.e. protruding spokes. In a lot of cases, I would make it
>>> home from the ride , but when I went on a ride the next day, the front or
>>> rear tire would be flat. Tires are 26 X 1.5 Compass McClure Pass and I've
>>> been cursing them , probably unfairly.
>>>
>>> Interesting that the tube specced for a narrower tire got you home and I
>>> assume it's still not causing flats?
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:54:21 AM UTC-5 J J wrote:
>>>
 Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but
 didn't want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one.

 My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I
 saw that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner
 tube. No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but
 within 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced
 the tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same
 thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone.

 I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for
 narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.

 The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.

 But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always
 do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02
 cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not
 too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or
 bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low.

 I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a
 no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe
 Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws,
 metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many,
 many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent
 condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred,
 and there was nothing remarkable on the road.

 But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm
 stumped. I don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about
 the saying (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing
 over and over again and expecting different results."

 I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can
 share.

 Thanks!!

 Jim


 [image: IMG_8384.jpg]

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>>
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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Eric Marth]

Further ideas: Antonio at Riv suggested getting a Helicoil tool in the 
M10x1.0 size to repair the bolt hole. Brian Chapman recommended installing 
a Wheels Mfg. dropout saver. Either would attempt to repair the bolt hole. 

I'm open to trying either of those fixes as well. 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:17:55 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:

> Thanks for the replies, everyone. 
>
> A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain is 
> under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when you're in 
> the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no amount 
> of trimming is fixing the issue. 
>
> I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was new 
> in summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough to 
> wear out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's an 
> 11-32. The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank with 
> TA Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's 
> running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in the 
> freehub body. 
>
> The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, hard 
> to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to move it 
> around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 
>
> I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. That 
> will be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the process. 
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
>> derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>
>>> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated hole 
>>> is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  
>>>
>>> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
>>> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used it 
>>> on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  
>>>
>>> On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
>>> dropout alignment gauge, also useful:
>>>
>>> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok
>>>
>>> Jim in Rochester, NY
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>>
 https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool

 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> Hey Eric,
>
> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
> sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others 
> for 
> getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
> yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references 
> to 
> the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I bought 
> after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 
>
> I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else 
> going on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only 
> noticeable that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go 
> into 
> the wheel. may depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the derailer 
> may have any wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in 
> another derailer or chain to test the system? 
>
> I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching 
> the final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would 
> be 
> time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would 
> do 
> that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 
>
> -stephen
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:
>
>> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur 
>> hanger will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is 
>> so 
>> bent that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the 
>> chain 
>> skip. Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. 
>> Have you checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and 
>> cassette? 
>>
>> Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
>> sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
>> but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
>> threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.
>>
>> If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger 
>> alignment tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid 
>> for 
>> itself many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an 
>> expensive, name-brand tool, but it works.
>>
>> CJ
>>

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Eric Marth]

Thanks for the replies, everyone. 

A few asked about the chain jumping/skipping/slipping. When the chain is 
under load it slips or clunks repeatedly. It's kind of like when you're in 
the wrong gear and you need to trim the gear to get it right. But no amount 
of trimming is fixing the issue. 

I've tried three different derailers, same problem. The cassette was new in 
summer of 2022 and I haven't ridden in the three big gears enough to wear 
out the teeth of the cogs. It's an S-Ride 7s from Rivendell, it's an 11-32. 
The crank is the same age, installed last summer. SunXCD crank with TA 
Specialites rings, 42/26. I don't see any issues with the wheel (it's 
running true) or with worn cassette or chainring teeth. Also no play in the 
freehub body. 

The elongated hole: It could be the derailer is flexing in the hole, hard 
to determine this off the bike. Derailer seems seated when I try to move it 
around in my hand, doesn't wobble. 

I have *not yet* tried installing a different wheel and cassette. That will 
be next. Should have tried that *much* earlier in the process. 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:57:01 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:

> Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
> derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 
>
> Jim
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated hole 
>> is the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  
>>
>> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
>> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used it 
>> on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  
>>
>> On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
>> dropout alignment gauge, also useful:
>>
>> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok
>>
>> Jim in Rochester, NY
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>>
 Hey Eric,

 Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
 sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others for 
 getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
 yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references 
 to 
 the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I bought 
 after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 

 I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else going 
 on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only noticeable 
 that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go into the 
 wheel. 
 may depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the derailer may have 
 any 
 wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in another derailer 
 or 
 chain to test the system? 

 I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching the 
 final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would be 
 time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would 
 do 
 that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 

 -stephen
 On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:

> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger 
> will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent 
> that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain 
> skip. 
> Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have 
> you 
> checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 
>
> Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
> sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
> but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
> threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.
>
> If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger 
> alignment tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid 
> for 
> itself many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an 
> expensive, name-brand tool, but it works.
>
> CJ
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> Okay, some mild updates. 
>
> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two 
> dozen times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and 
> during nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and 
> the derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test 
> ride. Repeat. 

Re: [RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[Brian Turner]

These type of flats are basically the only flats I've received in the past
decade or so - mostly because I am very particular and adamant about
checking my air pressures before riding. As such, it has caused me to
retain tubes for probably longer than most folks, and I'm assuming that has
in turn led to issues with the tubes degrading there at the base of the
valve stems. That said, it is very odd that you had three such flats in the
same ride... very curious. I'm sorry that happened to you, and hopefully
you can find the source of the issue!

On Thu, Aug 3, 2023 at 1:49 PM J J  wrote:

> Thanks, Ryan. Yes, the narrower tube got me home, but by that point it was
> only a short 1.5 miles away. I'm not confident that the narrow tube will be
> ok on a greater distance because I burned through three tubes of varying
> makes and specs. I'm riding different wheels until I sort this out.
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:37:36 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
>> I'll be interested to hear what others say about this...I should check my
>> X0-1's inner tubes  which has been plagued with mysterious flats and at no
>> time have I been able to find anything embedded in the tire or issues with
>> the rim i.e. protruding spokes. In a lot of cases, I would make it home
>> from the ride , but when I went on a ride the next day, the front or rear
>> tire would be flat. Tires are 26 X 1.5 Compass McClure Pass and I've been
>> cursing them , probably unfairly.
>>
>> Interesting that the tube specced for a narrower tire got you home and I
>> assume it's still not causing flats?
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:54:21 AM UTC-5 J J wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but
>>> didn't want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one.
>>>
>>> My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I saw
>>> that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner tube.
>>> No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but within
>>> 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced the
>>> tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same
>>> thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone.
>>>
>>> I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for
>>> narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.
>>>
>>> The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.
>>>
>>> But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always
>>> do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02
>>> cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not
>>> too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or
>>> bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low.
>>>
>>> I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a
>>> no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe
>>> Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws,
>>> metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many,
>>> many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent
>>> condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred,
>>> and there was nothing remarkable on the road.
>>>
>>> But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm stumped.
>>> I don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about the saying
>>> (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing over and
>>> over again and expecting different results."
>>>
>>> I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can
>>> share.
>>>
>>> Thanks!!
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_8384.jpg]
>>>
>> --
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> .
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[RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[J J]

Thanks, Ryan. Yes, the narrower tube got me home, but by that point it was 
only a short 1.5 miles away. I'm not confident that the narrow tube will be 
ok on a greater distance because I burned through three tubes of varying 
makes and specs. I'm riding different wheels until I sort this out.

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 1:37:36 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> I'll be interested to hear what others say about this...I should check my 
> X0-1's inner tubes  which has been plagued with mysterious flats and at no 
> time have I been able to find anything embedded in the tire or issues with 
> the rim i.e. protruding spokes. In a lot of cases, I would make it home 
> from the ride , but when I went on a ride the next day, the front or rear 
> tire would be flat. Tires are 26 X 1.5 Compass McClure Pass and I've been 
> cursing them , probably unfairly.
>
> Interesting that the tube specced for a narrower tire got you home and I 
> assume it's still not causing flats?
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:54:21 AM UTC-5 J J wrote:
>
>> Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but 
>> didn't want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one. 
>>
>> My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I saw 
>> that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner tube. 
>> No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but within 
>> 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced the 
>> tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same 
>> thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone. 
>>
>> I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for 
>> narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.
>>
>> The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.
>>
>> But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always 
>> do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02 
>> cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not 
>> too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or 
>> bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low. 
>>
>> I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a 
>> no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe 
>> Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws, 
>> metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many, 
>> many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent 
>> condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred, 
>> and there was nothing remarkable on the road.
>>
>> But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm stumped. 
>> I don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about the saying 
>> (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing over and 
>> over again and expecting different results."
>>
>> I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can 
>> share. 
>>
>> Thanks!!
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_8384.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[Ryan]

I'll be interested to hear what others say about this...I should check my 
X0-1's inner tubes  which has been plagued with mysterious flats and at no 
time have I been able to find anything embedded in the tire or issues with 
the rim i.e. protruding spokes. In a lot of cases, I would make it home 
from the ride , but when I went on a ride the next day, the front or rear 
tire would be flat. Tires are 26 X 1.5 Compass McClure Pass and I've been 
cursing them , probably unfairly.

Interesting that the tube specced for a narrower tire got you home and I 
assume it's still not causing flats?

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:54:21 AM UTC-5 J J wrote:

> Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but didn't 
> want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one. 
>
> My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I saw 
> that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner tube. 
> No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but within 
> 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced the 
> tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same 
> thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone. 
>
> I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for 
> narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.
>
> The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.
>
> But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always 
> do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02 
> cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not 
> too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or 
> bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low. 
>
> I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a 
> no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe 
> Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws, 
> metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many, 
> many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent 
> condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred, 
> and there was nothing remarkable on the road.
>
> But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm stumped. I 
> don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about the saying 
> (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing over and 
> over again and expecting different results."
>
> I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can share. 
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Jim
>
>
> [image: IMG_8384.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Kitsbow, Chrome, Patagonia

[Michael Ullmer]

Last bump and price drop on remaining items:

Kitsbow Green Mens Medium Riding Shirt - $SOLD

2) Kitsbow Grey Mens Medium Riding Polo - $35

3) Chrome Shorts Womens Size 6 - $25

4) Vintage Patagonia 100% Wool Sweater Mens Medium - $SOLD

On Thursday, July 20, 2023 at 11:24:32 AM UTC-5 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> Patagonia sweater has sold
>
> On Thursday, July 20, 2023 at 8:59:51 AM UTC-5 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>
>> Bump and a price drop on these:
>>
>> 1) Kitsbow Green Mens Medium Riding Shirt - $SOLD
>>
>> 2) Kitsbow Grey Mens Medium Riding Polo - $40
>>
>> 3) Chrome Shorts Womens Size 6 - $30
>>
>> 4) Vintage Patagonia 100% Wool Sweater Mens Medium - $25
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 19, 2023 at 9:22:44 AM UTC-5 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>
>>> Green Kitsbow shirt is sold
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 4:16:01 PM UTC-5 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>>
 Cross-post from i-bob:

 Cleaning out the closet yet again. Prices are net to me and don't 
 include shipping.

 1) Kitsbow Green Mens Medium Riding Shirt - $40
 --Merino/Poly blend, has a small zippered pocket in the back. Great 
 shape, no holes/tears.

 2) Kitsbow Grey Mens Medium Riding Polo - $45
 --The tag's been cut out, so can't confirm material, but I expect its a 
 merino/poly blend. Small snap pocket on the front with integrated glasses 
 cleaner. No holes, tears, etc.

 3) Chrome Shorts Womens Size 6 - $35
 --Bought these for my partner when the Chrome store closed down in 
 Seattle. She wore em only a handful of times.

 4) Vintage Patagonia 100% Wool Sweater Mens Medium - $30
 --There's three holes on the front that have been darned by Patagonia 
 in a contrasting gray thread. Superwash wool, reminds me of the wool color 
 of the Riv Woolywarm sweaters.

 Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/u2VSoJ3K44jhKTTd6

 PM off-list.

 Mike in Minneapolis

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Swapping a bulb in a Schmidt Edelux II?

[Wesley]

I would suspect the wiring and connections well before thinking the LED had 
burned out. Maybe clean and re-connect the wires everywhere you can? If 
there is a soldered connection in the wire, it may need re-doing? Good luck!
-Wes

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:07:36 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Dynamo-freaks: anyone ever replace a bulb in their Edelux II light? Mine 
> was flickering for a while, then went totally out on my ride home last 
> night. Checked the connection and it's plugged into the hub - but, worth 
> noting, the hub is a recent replacement!

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[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[John S]

I have had good luck covering smallish cuts with Gorilla Tape on the inside 
of the tire.

I was able to successfully repair a tire with a larger slice in it using a 
very inexpensive radial tire patch kit (I used this one: 
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/tire-maintenance/tire-repair-products/8023916).
 
I was even able to continue running that tire tubeless.



On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:30:56 AM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:

> Because the slice is below the knobs, I'd try sewing it up with a stout 
> nylon thread, covering the thread with a wipe of Shoegoo (inside and out) 
> and a tri-folded Clifbar wrapper (tough material) on the inside between the 
> tube and tire. This has worked well for me when living in countries where 
> tires were hard to come by.
>
> Cheers, John
>
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:21:37 AM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> That cut looks a bit large. You could try a tyre boot cut from an old 
>> slick tyre to see if the casing continues to herniate with the boot inside 
>> it. Or you could try a tubeless repair kit. I've used the Hutchinson 
>> Rep'Air kit on both tubeless and tubed punctures, but the cuts I fixed were 
>> not quite that large. I think the instructions with the Hutchinson claim it 
>> can be used on punctures up to 5mm size.
>>
>> Nick Payne
>>
>

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[RBW] Swapping a bulb in a Schmidt Edelux II?

[Caroline Golum]

Dynamo-freaks: anyone ever replace a bulb in their Edelux II light? Mine 
was flickering for a while, then went totally out on my ride home last 
night. Checked the connection and it's plugged into the hub - but, worth 
noting, the hub is a recent replacement!

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Jim Whorton]

Oops, I just noticed Stephen had already made the point about the 
derailleur possibly wiggling in the hole.  Yes— what Stephen said. 

Jim

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:52:54 AM UTC-4 Jim Whorton wrote:

> Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated hole is 
> the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  
>
> I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
> Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used it 
> on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  
>
> On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade 
> dropout alignment gauge, also useful:
>
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok
>
> Jim in Rochester, NY
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>
>> https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool
>>
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Eric,
>>>
>>> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
>>> sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others for 
>>> getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
>>> yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references to 
>>> the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I bought 
>>> after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 
>>>
>>> I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else going 
>>> on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only noticeable 
>>> that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go into the wheel. 
>>> may depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the derailer may have any 
>>> wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in another derailer or 
>>> chain to test the system? 
>>>
>>> I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching the 
>>> final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would be 
>>> time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would do 
>>> that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 
>>>
>>> -stephen
>>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:
>>>
 Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger 
 will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent 
 that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain 
 skip. 
 Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have you 
 checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 

 Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
 sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
 but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
 threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.

 If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger alignment 
 tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid for itself 
 many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an expensive, 
 name-brand tool, but it works.

 CJ


 On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 Okay, some mild updates. 

 I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two 
 dozen times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and 
 during nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and 
 the derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test 
 ride. Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 

 I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight 
 edges, trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer 
 hanger where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane 
 with one another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still 
 jumps. 

 I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have 
 so far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
 mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
 elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
 feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
 nicely each time. 

 One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and 
 hanger alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are 
 aligned. *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too 
 much torque on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the 
 frame if they look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I 
 talked to Grant about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to 
 happen, 

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Jim Whorton]

Even though it’s threading in smoothly, I wonder if that elongated hole is 
the problem. Wonder if that bolt is moving under tension.  

I’m not a bike mechanic by any means but I did spring for the Park 
Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge awhile back and I’m glad.  I have used it 
on old frames and on a new Riv frame I built up recently.  

On YouTube, RJ the Bike Guy has a good video on building a homemade dropout 
alignment gauge, also useful:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok

Jim in Rochester, NY

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 11:08:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>
>> Hey Eric,
>>
>> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but 
>> sheesh, what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others for 
>> getting a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for 
>> yourself. i bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references to 
>> the hub vs rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I bought 
>> after knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 
>>
>> I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else going 
>> on to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only noticeable 
>> that when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go into the wheel. 
>> may depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the derailer may have any 
>> wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in another derailer or 
>> chain to test the system? 
>>
>> I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching the 
>> final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would be 
>> time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would do 
>> that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 
>>
>> -stephen
>> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:
>>
>>> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger 
>>> will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent 
>>> that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain skip. 
>>> Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have you 
>>> checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 
>>>
>>> Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
>>> sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
>>> but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
>>> threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.
>>>
>>> If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger alignment 
>>> tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid for itself 
>>> many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an expensive, 
>>> name-brand tool, but it works.
>>>
>>> CJ
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Okay, some mild updates. 
>>>
>>> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two 
>>> dozen times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and 
>>> during nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and 
>>> the derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test 
>>> ride. Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>>>
>>> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight 
>>> edges, trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer 
>>> hanger where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane 
>>> with one another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still 
>>> jumps. 
>>>
>>> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have 
>>> so far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
>>> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
>>> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
>>> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
>>> nicely each time. 
>>>
>>> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and 
>>> hanger alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are 
>>> aligned. *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too 
>>> much torque on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the 
>>> frame if they look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I 
>>> talked to Grant about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to 
>>> happen, either. He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger 
>>> through 180º of motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not 
>>> moving mine nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant 
>>> Petersen say "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of 
>>> memorable quotes 

[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[John Rinker]

Because the slice is below the knobs, I'd try sewing it up with a stout 
nylon thread, covering the thread with a wipe of Shoegoo (inside and out) 
and a tri-folded Clifbar wrapper (tough material) on the inside between the 
tube and tire. This has worked well for me when living in countries where 
tires were hard to come by.

Cheers, John


On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 2:21:37 AM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:

> That cut looks a bit large. You could try a tyre boot cut from an old 
> slick tyre to see if the casing continues to herniate with the boot inside 
> it. Or you could try a tubeless repair kit. I've used the Hutchinson 
> Rep'Air kit on both tubeless and tubed punctures, but the cuts I fixed were 
> not quite that large. I think the instructions with the Hutchinson claim it 
> can be used on punctures up to 5mm size.
>
> Nick Payne
>

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Stephen]

https://www.jensonusa.com/Wolf-Tooth-Hanger-Alignment-Tool

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 10:41:54 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> Hey Eric,
>
> Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but sheesh, 
> what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others for getting 
> a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for yourself. i 
> bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references to the hub vs 
> rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I bought after 
> knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 
>
> I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else going on 
> to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only noticeable that 
> when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go into the wheel. may 
> depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the derailer may have any 
> wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in another derailer or 
> chain to test the system? 
>
> I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching the 
> final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would be 
> time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would do 
> that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 
>
> -stephen
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:
>
>> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger 
>> will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent 
>> that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain skip. 
>> Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have you 
>> checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 
>>
>> Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
>> sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
>> but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
>> threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.
>>
>> If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger alignment 
>> tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid for itself 
>> many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an expensive, 
>> name-brand tool, but it works.
>>
>> CJ
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Okay, some mild updates. 
>>
>> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two 
>> dozen times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and 
>> during nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and 
>> the derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test 
>> ride. Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>>
>> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight 
>> edges, trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer 
>> hanger where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane 
>> with one another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still 
>> jumps. 
>>
>> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have 
>> so far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
>> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
>> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
>> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
>> nicely each time. 
>>
>> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
>> alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
>> *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque 
>> on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they 
>> look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant 
>> about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. 
>> He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of 
>> motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine 
>> nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say 
>> "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable 
>> quotes by notable people. 
>>
>> There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
>> so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
>> end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 
>>
>> I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and 
>> shape it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and 
>> have worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has 
>> sold his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
>> messages. 
>>
>> Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer 
>> hanger alignment tool and try it 

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Stephen]

Hey Eric,

Been loosely following along. Glad you were ok in the accident but sheesh, 
what a bummer it did so much damage. Id vote along with others for getting 
a hanger alignment tool, or figuring out how to make one for yourself. i 
bought a wolf tooth variety ( i prefer the way it references to the hub vs 
rim) not too long ago and dont regret the investment. I bought after 
knocking my appaloosa over on the drive side. 

I will say i am curious too whether there might be something else going on 
to cause the skipping.. when my hanger was bent it was only noticeable that 
when in my biggest cassette ring the derailer would go into the wheel. may 
depend on what way its bended. I’m curious if the derailer may have any 
wiggle in the elongated hole. have you tried subbing in another derailer or 
chain to test the system? 

I encourage you to keep trying to solve on your own before reaching the 
final solution of frame repair or sending cross country, which would be 
time consuming and expensive. I can’t imagine what antonio or mark would do 
that you or someone more experienced on the east coast couldnt achieve. 

-stephen
On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:33:06 AM UTC-4 CJ wrote:

> Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger 
> will cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent 
> that the derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain skip. 
> Skipping chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have you 
> checked your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 
>
> Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
> sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
> but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
> threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.
>
> If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger alignment 
> tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid for itself 
> many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an expensive, 
> name-brand tool, but it works.
>
> CJ
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Okay, some mild updates. 
>
> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two dozen 
> times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and during 
> nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and the 
> derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test ride. 
> Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>
> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight edges, 
> trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer hanger 
> where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane with one 
> another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still jumps. 
>
> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have so 
> far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
> nicely each time. 
>
> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
> alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
> *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque 
> on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they 
> look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant 
> about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. 
> He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of 
> motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine 
> nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say 
> "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable 
> quotes by notable people. 
>
> There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
> so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
> end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 
>
> I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and shape 
> it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and have 
> worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has sold 
> his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
> messages. 
>
> Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer hanger 
> alignment tool and try it myself in the home shop. Looking at the Park Tool 
> DAG 2.2. This eliminates the hesitancy of other mechanics (I'm not afraid 
> to wreck the bike) and gives me a useful tool to have forever. 
>
> Full options going forward (as I see them, 

[RBW] Re: Rivendell Ride PDX

[John A. Bennett]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuusR0Krvjh

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 6:57:58 AM UTC-7 John A. Bennett wrote:

> Thanks, Michael! We're looking forward to seeing everyone. 
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CuusR0Krvjh 
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 6:56:45 PM UTC-7 velomann wrote:
>
>> They're getting the band back together. 
>> John B & Darby of our much-missed Rivelo are hosting a Pedalpalooza get 
>> together and ride on August 13.
>> All bikes welcome, though I suspect we may see the greatest gathering of 
>> Rivendells ever outside of Walnut Creek.
>> Bikes, Bags, Brews, and Bob.
>> Be there.
>> https://www.shift2bikes.org/calendar/event-17311
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Ride PDX

[John A. Bennett]

Thanks, Michael! We're looking forward to seeing everyone. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuusR0Krvjh 
On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 6:56:45 PM UTC-7 velomann wrote:

> They're getting the band back together. 
> John B & Darby of our much-missed Rivelo are hosting a Pedalpalooza get 
> together and ride on August 13.
> All bikes welcome, though I suspect we may see the greatest gathering of 
> Rivendells ever outside of Walnut Creek.
> Bikes, Bags, Brews, and Bob.
> Be there.
> https://www.shift2bikes.org/calendar/event-17311
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[CJ]

Can you elaborate on "the chain skips"? A misaligned derailleur hanger will 
cause shifting to be sub-optimal, but unless the hanger is so bent that the 
derailleur is way, way out of whack, it can't make the chain skip. Skipping 
chains are caused by worn or damaged chains and/or cogs. Have you checked 
your cassette cogs for damage? Try a new chain and cassette? 

Another thing to check, are your dropouts aligned? Is the wheel still 
sitting straight in the frame? Dropout alignment tools are nice to have, 
but pricey and you shouldn't need them often. You can improvise with 
threaded rod and a handful of hardware. Google is your friend.

If you own multiple bikes, you should own a derailleur hanger alignment 
tool. I have an inexpensive "Cyclospirit" one, and it's paid for itself 
many times over. It's maybe a little more fiddly to use than an expensive, 
name-brand tool, but it works.

CJ


On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

Okay, some mild updates. 

I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two dozen 
times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and during 
nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and the 
derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test ride. 
Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 

I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight edges, 
trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer hanger 
where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane with one 
another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still jumps. 

I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have so 
far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
nicely each time. 

One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
*But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque on 
the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they look 
at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant about 
this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. He 
shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of motion 
several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine nearly as 
much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say "Steel is 
magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable quotes by 
notable people. 

There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 

I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and shape 
it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and have 
worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has sold 
his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
messages. 

Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer hanger 
alignment tool and try it myself in the home shop. Looking at the Park Tool 
DAG 2.2. This eliminates the hesitancy of other mechanics (I'm not afraid 
to wreck the bike) and gives me a useful tool to have forever. 

Full options going forward (as I see them, open to suggestions as always): 

   - Buy a gauge and adjust it myself until I'm satisfied or I give up and 
   advance to next option
   - Take it to a shop
  - Go-to shop seems afraid to break my hanger, I don't think that's 
  going to happen but they are audibly and visibly weary. 
  - Other shop in town I avoid at all costs and don't want to take my 
  bikes to them
   - Get a new dropout welded onto the bike
  - I wouldn't mind doing this but I can't find a builder in my area
  - Contacted three people. One retired, the other two haven't 
  responded. 
   - Send it to Rivendell
  - Grant thinks Mark or Antonio can fix the hanger. Cool!
  - Grant said to send the bike stripped down, no fork. How are they 
  going to align and test it to see if the chain jumps? 
  - I don't relly want to freight the bike coast-to-coast twice. 
  Not a dealbreaker, tho. 
  - Grant said if Mark or Antonio can't get it he knows a builder who 
  can do the repair but it could be three months before I get the bike back.
  - This leads me back to...
   - Buy a gauge and adjust it myself 

If you've made it this far, wow, you are invested in this repair! Thanks 
for checking in. I'll post more updates as they develop. 

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:03:10 

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Wesley]

Last fall I wrecked a derailer and bent the hanger when I shifted a 
short-cage rear der into the big-big combination. I bought a new derailer 
and aligned the dropout using this 
clever hack (which I could swear I learned of from this 
list): https://youtu.be/TnwreRrorIA

Anyway, it sounds to me like after all these tries that your derailer 
hanger is aligned, and that the problem lies elsewhere. Perhaps a bent cog 
on the cassette? Or the new derailer you're trying has some flaw - e.g. the 
upper pulley can wander? A stiff link in the chain? I can't think of a 
reason that the impact to shifter, cable, and housing would be the issue, 
but maybe there is one I haven't thought of?

"When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains – however 
implausible – must be the truth."
-Wes
On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 6:00:36 AM UTC-7 Bill Schairer wrote:

> I vote for buy a gauge and do it yourself.  I bought a Park DAG years ago 
> after a wreck and have used it many, many times since.  No regrets.  
> Haven't I watched your build videos?  You need this tool regardless.  That 
> said, if a shop used one and aligned the hanger, I have a lot of trouble 
> thinking the hanger is responsible for the jumping. In my experience, a 
> misaligned hanger results in poor shifting, noisy drivetrain, and 
> difficulty adjusting the high and low stops.  If it is jumping between 
> gears, maybe, but then should be happening in all gears or at least never 
> seem quite right no matter which gear?  If it is jumping on the same gear, 
> I'd be thinking chain, cassette and/or chainrings?
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 8:20:22 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Okay, some mild updates. 
>>
>> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two 
>> dozen times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and 
>> during nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and 
>> the derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test 
>> ride. Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>>
>> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight 
>> edges, trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer 
>> hanger where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane 
>> with one another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still 
>> jumps. 
>>
>> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have 
>> so far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
>> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
>> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
>> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
>> nicely each time. 
>>
>> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
>> alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
>> *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque 
>> on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they 
>> look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant 
>> about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. 
>> He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of 
>> motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine 
>> nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say 
>> "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable 
>> quotes by notable people. 
>>
>> There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
>> so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
>> end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 
>>
>> I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and 
>> shape it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and 
>> have worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has 
>> sold his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
>> messages. 
>>
>> Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer 
>> hanger alignment tool and try it myself in the home shop. Looking at the 
>> Park Tool DAG 2.2. This eliminates the hesitancy of other mechanics (I'm 
>> not afraid to wreck the bike) and gives me a useful tool to have forever. 
>>
>> Full options going forward (as I see them, open to suggestions as 
>> always): 
>>
>>- Buy a gauge and adjust it myself until I'm satisfied or I give up 
>>and advance to next option
>>- Take it to a shop
>>   - Go-to shop seems afraid to break my hanger, I don't think that's 
>>   going to happen but they are audibly and visibly weary. 
>>   - Other shop in town I avoid at all costs and don't want to take 
>>   my bikes to them
>>- Get a new dropout welded onto the bike
>>  

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Bill Schairer]

I vote for buy a gauge and do it yourself.  I bought a Park DAG years ago 
after a wreck and have used it many, many times since.  No regrets.  
Haven't I watched your build videos?  You need this tool regardless.  That 
said, if a shop used one and aligned the hanger, I have a lot of trouble 
thinking the hanger is responsible for the jumping. In my experience, a 
misaligned hanger results in poor shifting, noisy drivetrain, and 
difficulty adjusting the high and low stops.  If it is jumping between 
gears, maybe, but then should be happening in all gears or at least never 
seem quite right no matter which gear?  If it is jumping on the same gear, 
I'd be thinking chain, cassette and/or chainrings?

Bill S
San Diego

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 8:20:22 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Okay, some mild updates. 
>
> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two dozen 
> times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and during 
> nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and the 
> derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test ride. 
> Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>
> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight edges, 
> trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer hanger 
> where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane with one 
> another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still jumps. 
>
> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have so 
> far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
> nicely each time. 
>
> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
> alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
> *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque 
> on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they 
> look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant 
> about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. 
> He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of 
> motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine 
> nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say 
> "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable 
> quotes by notable people. 
>
> There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
> so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
> end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 
>
> I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and shape 
> it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and have 
> worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has sold 
> his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
> messages. 
>
> Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer hanger 
> alignment tool and try it myself in the home shop. Looking at the Park Tool 
> DAG 2.2. This eliminates the hesitancy of other mechanics (I'm not afraid 
> to wreck the bike) and gives me a useful tool to have forever. 
>
> Full options going forward (as I see them, open to suggestions as always): 
>
>- Buy a gauge and adjust it myself until I'm satisfied or I give up 
>and advance to next option
>- Take it to a shop
>   - Go-to shop seems afraid to break my hanger, I don't think that's 
>   going to happen but they are audibly and visibly weary. 
>   - Other shop in town I avoid at all costs and don't want to take my 
>   bikes to them
>- Get a new dropout welded onto the bike
>   - I wouldn't mind doing this but I can't find a builder in my area
>   - Contacted three people. One retired, the other two haven't 
>   responded. 
>- Send it to Rivendell
>   - Grant thinks Mark or Antonio can fix the hanger. Cool!
>   - Grant said to send the bike stripped down, no fork. How are they 
>   going to align and test it to see if the chain jumps? 
>   - I don't relly want to freight the bike coast-to-coast twice. 
>   Not a dealbreaker, tho. 
>   - Grant said if Mark or Antonio can't get it he knows a builder who 
>   can do the repair but it could be three months before I get the bike 
> back.
>   - This leads me back to...
>- Buy a gauge and adjust it myself 
>
> If you've made it this far, wow, you are invested in this repair! Thanks 
> for checking in. I'll post more updates as they develop. 
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:03:10 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Thanks, 

[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[JohnS]

A project is always a good excuse for buying a new tool, as a friend of my 
use to say. May as well splurge on the alignment tool and see how it works 
out. Personally I'm suspicions of the elongated bolt hole, not sure why, 
but it doesn't look good. Any frame builders in a hour or two drive from 
you? If I were in your shoes I would take it to Bilenky Cycle Works 
 in Philly, I've heard good things about them and 
they always have great looking bikes at the Philly Bike Expo.

Good luck,
JohnS

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 11:49:34 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> Your local shops sound like non-starters, if the one isn't confident and 
> the other is bad juju. Freighting the bike coast-to-coast and back  to Riv  
> + their labor   sounds like it's not a deal-breaker. Sounds like the west 
> coast is the mecca for framebuilders. I have no idea about the east coast 
> or mid-US. I wonder if you could get a second opinion from Mark 
> Nobilette...although I would not be surprised if he is retired or 
> contemplating retirement. 
>
>  I've bought 3 bikes from Riv2 customs and many parts and while the 
> wait time may be long, I would totally trust them to move heaven and earth 
> to get your bike right. If it means that much to you I would put myself in 
> their hands. You have that established  relationship with them. 
>
> My .002CAD...good luck. I'm sure you'll resolve this one way or another
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 10:21:49 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>
>> And sheep in your poster , if I recall correctly. Very bucolic
>>
>> I feel you  about the freight. Are there no reputable builders closer to 
>> you who could do the repair? In a neighbouring state perhaps?
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 10:03:10 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Ryan. Yes, I think the cost for the repair would be reasonable. 
>>> I worry the cost to freight the frame would be a little painful and the 
>>> time without the bike could be considerable depending on how it shakes out. 
>>>
>>> The poster is the MTB countryside illustration, same illustrator who did 
>>> yours. "Get away fast on a Bridgestone" or something like that. Hills, dirt 
>>> road, country church. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 7:36:10 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>>
 Yikes! That is too bad but I'm glad you weren't hurt. I know you are 
 very ingenious, but maybe the frame needs to be sent to Riv for repair? 
 Who 
 will no doubt do the repair at a reasonable cost

 Which poster? I have the "saddle up on a bridgestone"...my favorite of 
 the Grant-inspired ones...the one with the rider on a roadbike alongside a 
 galloping horse. Can't remember if I bought it from Rivendell or from a 
 friend of mine who built many of my wheels and at one time was a 
 bridgestone dealer and sold me my 1993 X0-1 that I still have

 On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 4:55:39 AM UTC-5 R. Alexis wrote:

> That does not look good. Maybe once you get it into a stand and 
> carefully remove the derailleur and gently realign the hanger you will be 
> fine. The rear der pully cage can probably be bent back into shape. Issue 
> is probably trusting it. Hope things work out. Glad you were not hurt. 
>
> Thanks,
>
> Reginald Alexis
>
> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 2:13:02 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey gang — I was out for a Sunday ride and stopped to take a picture. 
>> I rolled to the side of the road and did not see the culvert, hidden 
>> with 
>> fresh grass clippings. I tumbled over at low speed. I'm fine! 
>>
>> When I stood up I noticed my drive-side bar end shifter had rotated 
>> 90º. And my derailer hanger and the derailer were bent. I spun the crank 
>> while off the bike and it seemed to move okay so I thought I'd give it a 
>> go 
>> as a single speed. 
>>
>> I pedaled for a few strokes, then nudged the shifter. It was at that 
>> time the derailer turned upside down and inside out, bending into the 
>> spokes and throwing the chain. It was really fun!
>>
>> [image: Screenshot 2023-07-23 at 3.05.28 PM.png]
>>
>> This is my Hillborne, my most-ridden bike. I'll see if the hanger can 
>> be bent but I have a feeling it will require some work from a frame 
>> builder. That's a Suntour Cyclone. Fortunately I have five of them 
>> (including this one). You might recall the cage tension spring in my 
>> previous Cyclone recently failed. This is one of the replacements I 
>> picked 
>> up. It was in excellent shape but now it's going to the salvage bin. 
>>
>> While I was waiting for a ride four people stopped to ask if they 
>> could help me. One was a cyclist who said "You need anything?" I replied 
>> "I 
>> need derailer hanger, a rear mech and a welding torch!"
>>
>> Hope your weekend rides weren't so 

Re: [RBW] ISO: Toyo Atlantis, All-Rounder, Saluki, Rambo (53/54 range)

[Ryan]

Interesting that you say that because I thought maybe the fork looked like 
it could have been from a low-end Peugeot.Frame not sure. U08's had those 
funky, kind of neat stepped lugs like this. Someone's quite nice 
restoration below

https://djcatnap.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/peugeot_uo8_01.jpg

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 5:27:35 AM UTC-5 Fullylugged wrote:

> The ad states that he doesn't know the manufacturer. Definitely not RBW. 
> Looks like maybe a low end Peugeot.
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 3:43:57 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>
>> Not sure about that original Rivendell listed for $1 which is not $1 in 
>> Brooklyn. If he means 1K I think he's dreaming in Technicolor.
>>
>> I downloaded one of the photos to zoom in on and regardless of the crappy 
>> obviously  not original paint job with no decals or anything else to 
>> identify it, the lugs and the fork don't look like OG Riv lugs or fork  to 
>> me. It's not a great photo but I'm not sure seeing it in person would 
>> change my mind. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 3:15:29 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Atlantis: 56cm
>>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/843147776777889/
>>>
>>> Appaloosa: 54cm
>>>
>>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/central-point-rivendell-appaloosa-54cm/7639357342.html
>>>
>>> Sam Hillborne: 51cm
>>>
>>> https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/bik/d/charlottesville-gently-used-rivendell/7641259969.html
>>>
>>> Sam Hillborne: 55cm:
>>>
>>> https://northernwi.craigslist.org/bik/d/saint-germain-sam-hillbourne/7637994238.html
>>>
>>> Rivendell Original: 56cm
>>>
>>> https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-original-rivendell-56cm-ml/7646090906.html
>>>
>>> Rambouillet: 52cm
>>>
>>> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/d/gilbert-rivendell-rambouillet/7635579143.html
>>>
>>> Rambouillet: 56cm
>>>
>>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/central-point-rivendell-rambouillet-1st/7639406959.html
>>>
>>> Protovelo: 57cm
>>>
>>> https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bik/d/lewisville-rivendell-protovelo-57cm/7648544548.html
>>>
>>> Heron: 59cm
>>>
>>> https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/los-angeles-1993-heron-rivendell/7648263190.html
>>>
>>> Susie Longbolts: 56cm
>>>
>>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/eugene-new-rivendell-susie-longbolt/7648066687.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 2, 2023, at 12:55 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>>
>>> I am on the search for a classic Rivendell frame. I am open to pretty 
>>> much any of the older frames and don't really care if its 26", 650B. or 
>>> 700C. Bleriot, Saluki, Hilson, Atlantis. I am really open. I just want to 
>>> build up and have one of the classic Riv's. I am typically in the 53/54 
>>> range for the older less slopey top tube stuff.  Hit me up. 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/afed7309-8ec8-4edb-8680-3eee9d4e6c58n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Toyo Atlantis, All-Rounder, Saluki, Rambo (53/54 range)

[Fullylugged]

The ad states that he doesn't know the manufacturer. Definitely not RBW. 
Looks like maybe a low end Peugeot.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 3:43:57 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> Not sure about that original Rivendell listed for $1 which is not $1 in 
> Brooklyn. If he means 1K I think he's dreaming in Technicolor.
>
> I downloaded one of the photos to zoom in on and regardless of the crappy 
> obviously  not original paint job with no decals or anything else to 
> identify it, the lugs and the fork don't look like OG Riv lugs or fork  to 
> me. It's not a great photo but I'm not sure seeing it in person would 
> change my mind. 
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 3:15:29 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Atlantis: 56cm
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/843147776777889/
>>
>> Appaloosa: 54cm
>>
>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/central-point-rivendell-appaloosa-54cm/7639357342.html
>>
>> Sam Hillborne: 51cm
>>
>> https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/bik/d/charlottesville-gently-used-rivendell/7641259969.html
>>
>> Sam Hillborne: 55cm:
>>
>> https://northernwi.craigslist.org/bik/d/saint-germain-sam-hillbourne/7637994238.html
>>
>> Rivendell Original: 56cm
>>
>> https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/d/brooklyn-original-rivendell-56cm-ml/7646090906.html
>>
>> Rambouillet: 52cm
>>
>> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/d/gilbert-rivendell-rambouillet/7635579143.html
>>
>> Rambouillet: 56cm
>>
>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/central-point-rivendell-rambouillet-1st/7639406959.html
>>
>> Protovelo: 57cm
>>
>> https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bik/d/lewisville-rivendell-protovelo-57cm/7648544548.html
>>
>> Heron: 59cm
>>
>> https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/los-angeles-1993-heron-rivendell/7648263190.html
>>
>> Susie Longbolts: 56cm
>>
>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/eugene-new-rivendell-susie-longbolt/7648066687.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Aug 2, 2023, at 12:55 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>
>> I am on the search for a classic Rivendell frame. I am open to pretty 
>> much any of the older frames and don't really care if its 26", 650B. or 
>> 700C. Bleriot, Saluki, Hilson, Atlantis. I am really open. I just want to 
>> build up and have one of the classic Riv's. I am typically in the 53/54 
>> range for the older less slopey top tube stuff.  Hit me up. 
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/afed7309-8ec8-4edb-8680-3eee9d4e6c58n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[Nick Payne]

That cut looks a bit large. You could try a tyre boot cut from an old slick 
tyre to see if the casing continues to herniate with the boot inside it. Or 
you could try a tubeless repair kit. I've used the Hutchinson Rep'Air kit 
on both tubeless and tubed punctures, but the cuts I fixed were not quite 
that large. I think the instructions with the Hutchinson claim it can be 
used on punctures up to 5mm size.

Nick Payne

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[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[Garth]

Hmm, Myself I'd grab an old worn tire if I had one on hand, and make a 
small boot for underneath it. Inflate it and see how the cut now appears, 
if it's gaping more/less and such. I've never had a boot that didn't work 
or fail, those were all on narrow high pressure road tires. A knobby at 
much lower pressure should be a breeze. 

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 3:52:17 AM UTC-4 Jeffrey Arita wrote:

> Matthew,
>
> You could try patching the tire.  I've used Rema's TT13 Tubeless Repair 
> Kit (sorry, can't post hyperlink as we're away from home).
>
> We were on a bike packing trip in the middle of nowhere when my wife 
> sliced her sidewall on a sharp square rock.  Sealant wouldn't repair the 
> long cut - as expected.  Ended up removing the tire, emptying the remaining 
> sealant (yes, messy), cleaning the area of the sidewall cut, applying the 
> patch AND installing a tube.  The tube ended up actually helping to meld 
> the patch to the inside of the tire since it was compressing the two 
> together.  Obviously the patch prevented the tube from bulging to the 
> outside.
>
> Might be worth a try since that SK is practically brand new.
>
> Also: since you may have run over other bits of glass I would suggest you 
> inspect both tires: tiny shards may have embedded themselves into the 
> tires.  They could slowly work themselves thru the tread, eventually 
> puncturing the tube(s).  One way to check is to chuck each wheel into a 
> wheel stand, deflate the tire completely then pinch the tire and carefully 
> examine the entire circumference. I typically start at the valve stem and 
> go all the way around.  Have a pick or small tweezers handy to pick out any 
> of the shards or other debris embedded.  A powerful headlamp helps too.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jeff
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 7:59:17 AM UTC+2 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> As I was riding this evening, I saw shards of broken glass glittering in 
>> the beam of my headlight but I wasn’t able to swerve out of the way. I 
>> heard a small pop as my front wheel ran over the glass, then a loud 
>> hiss-isss-isss-isss as the tube deflated and I rolled to a stop.
>>
>> “No problem,” I thought. “I’m only a block from home, and I can test the 
>> patch kit I’ve been carrying.” At home, I removed the wheel and unmounted 
>> the tire. The hole in the tube was about seven millimeters wide and I’d 
>> already patched the tube twice, so I installed a new tube—but when I 
>> remounted it and pumped up the tire, I saw the new tube was poking through 
>> the hole in the tire! 
>>
>> On a car, a tire shop could simply install a patch on the inside of the 
>> tire, but I’m wondering if the damage to the tire is too extensive to 
>> repair. The tires (Panaracer Gravelking SKs) are nearly new and have fewer 
>> than 100 miles on them—they still have the little “new tire hairs” and that 
>> white waxy stuff.
>>
>> What’s the wisdom on this sort of tire damage? Can the tire be 
>> patched—and if so, how? Or, do I need a new tire?
>>
>> As always, your wisdom, advice, and experience are greatly appreciated.
>>
>> [image: IMG_3219.jpg][image: IMG_3217.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Matthew,

You could try patching the tire.  I've used Rema's TT13 Tubeless Repair Kit 
(sorry, can't post hyperlink as we're away from home).

We were on a bike packing trip in the middle of nowhere when my wife sliced 
her sidewall on a sharp square rock.  Sealant wouldn't repair the long cut 
- as expected.  Ended up removing the tire, emptying the remaining sealant 
(yes, messy), cleaning the area of the sidewall cut, applying the patch AND 
installing a tube.  The tube ended up actually helping to meld the patch to 
the inside of the tire since it was compressing the two together.  
Obviously the patch prevented the tube from bulging to the outside.

Might be worth a try since that SK is practically brand new.

Also: since you may have run over other bits of glass I would suggest you 
inspect both tires: tiny shards may have embedded themselves into the 
tires.  They could slowly work themselves thru the tread, eventually 
puncturing the tube(s).  One way to check is to chuck each wheel into a 
wheel stand, deflate the tire completely then pinch the tire and carefully 
examine the entire circumference. I typically start at the valve stem and 
go all the way around.  Have a pick or small tweezers handy to pick out any 
of the shards or other debris embedded.  A powerful headlamp helps too.

Good luck,

Jeff

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 7:59:17 AM UTC+2 Matthew Williams wrote:

> As I was riding this evening, I saw shards of broken glass glittering in 
> the beam of my headlight but I wasn’t able to swerve out of the way. I 
> heard a small pop as my front wheel ran over the glass, then a loud 
> hiss-isss-isss-isss as the tube deflated and I rolled to a stop.
>
> “No problem,” I thought. “I’m only a block from home, and I can test the 
> patch kit I’ve been carrying.” At home, I removed the wheel and unmounted 
> the tire. The hole in the tube was about seven millimeters wide and I’d 
> already patched the tube twice, so I installed a new tube—but when I 
> remounted it and pumped up the tire, I saw the new tube was poking through 
> the hole in the tire! 
>
> On a car, a tire shop could simply install a patch on the inside of the 
> tire, but I’m wondering if the damage to the tire is too extensive to 
> repair. The tires (Panaracer Gravelking SKs) are nearly new and have fewer 
> than 100 miles on them—they still have the little “new tire hairs” and that 
> white waxy stuff.
>
> What’s the wisdom on this sort of tire damage? Can the tire be 
> patched—and if so, how? Or, do I need a new tire?
>
> As always, your wisdom, advice, and experience are greatly appreciated.
>
> [image: IMG_3219.jpg][image: IMG_3217.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[Luke Hendrickson]

I’d (unfortunately) suggest replacement in this case. 

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 10:59:17 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> As I was riding this evening, I saw shards of broken glass glittering in 
> the beam of my headlight but I wasn’t able to swerve out of the way. I 
> heard a small pop as my front wheel ran over the glass, then a loud 
> hiss-isss-isss-isss as the tube deflated and I rolled to a stop.
>
> “No problem,” I thought. “I’m only a block from home, and I can test the 
> patch kit I’ve been carrying.” At home, I removed the wheel and unmounted 
> the tire. The hole in the tube was about seven millimeters wide and I’d 
> already patched the tube twice, so I installed a new tube—but when I 
> remounted it and pumped up the tire, I saw the new tube was poking through 
> the hole in the tire! 
>
> On a car, a tire shop could simply install a patch on the inside of the 
> tire, but I’m wondering if the damage to the tire is too extensive to 
> repair. The tires (Panaracer Gravelking SKs) are nearly new and have fewer 
> than 100 miles on them—they still have the little “new tire hairs” and that 
> white waxy stuff.
>
> What’s the wisdom on this sort of tire damage? Can the tire be 
> patched—and if so, how? Or, do I need a new tire?
>
> As always, your wisdom, advice, and experience are greatly appreciated.
>
> [image: IMG_3219.jpg][image: IMG_3217.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Toyo Atlantis, All-Rounder, Saluki, Rambo (53/54 range)

[Nick Payne]

On Thursday, 3 August 2023 at 6:43:57 am UTC+10 Ryan wrote:

Not sure about that original Rivendell listed for $1 which is not $1 in 
Brooklyn. If he means 1K I think he's dreaming in Technicolor.

I downloaded one of the photos to zoom in on and regardless of the crappy 
obviously  not original paint job with no decals or anything else to 
identify it, the lugs and the fork don't look like OG Riv lugs or fork  to 
me. It's not a great photo but I'm not sure seeing it in person would 
change my mind.


It looks more like a cheap frame where the tubes haven't been mitered, and 
the long lugs are used to hide this fact. It also doesn't look as though 
there are eyelets on either the front or rear dropouts. 

Nick Payne

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