Re: [RBW] Re: Fork Crack!

[Karl Wilcox]

The builders overheated that fork-- they did the right thing by replacing
the fork.  It has absolutely nothing with 'mileage' or the use of the bike
and everyone knows that...

On Wed, Oct 5, 2022 at 11:42 AM Matthew Williams <
matthewwilliamsdes...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone, thank you for your recommendations and wisdom; I took your
> advice and sent the photos to the Rivendellers. Said Vince, “It
> definitely looks like a crack in the fork crown and not just a paint chip.
> You can't ride on that fork anymore.” Vince wanted a closer look, so we
> met at the shop early this morning, and Will removed the fork.
>
> The crack is only on the top right side of the fork crown. Vince and his
> team are going to consult with the factory to determine whether the
> failure was caused by an impact, a metallurgical defect, a manufacturing
> or production-related issue, or just mileage.
>
> Vince gave me a replacement Appaloosa fork! I’m thinking I’ll have it and
> the frame repainted, and rebuild the bike over the winter so it’s ready to
> ride in the spring.
>
> To answer some of the questions:
>
> - What kind of riding do you do?
> I ride around town, and I often do day trips of 30 to 50 miles, all on
> paved roads. I don’t jump curbs and the only off-road stuff I’ve ridden has
> been a few gravel paths and a fire road. In the two years I’ve had the
> bike, I’ve probably ridden over 3000 miles.
>
> - Have you had any events that may have stressed the fork?
> No, I haven’t had any collisions or falls that would have affected the
> fork. I weigh about 165, I don’t load up the bike up with gear, and I don’t
> have a front rack.
>
> - Are you the original owner?
> No, I'm the second owner—but the bike was nearly new when I bought it.
> The original owner had only ridden the bike twice, and I doubt he’d
> ridden beyond the bike path. The bike was spotless and the build was stock
> Rivendell, like it had just rolled off the showroom floor.
>
> - Do you live in a wet or marine environment?
> I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but I always keep the bike indoors
> and I’ve only ridden in the rain once. None of the other spots of exposed
> metal on the frame have any signs of corrosion.
>
> Thanks again, everyone, for your help. I appreciate it, very much. Special
> thanks also to Vince and Will and the team at Rivendell—you guys are the
> best.
>
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Re: [RBW] Your preferred non-leather saddle

[Karl Wilcox]

The new Specialized saddles are quite comfortable— I use one with a 168mm
width; it is about the same width as my Brooks saddles.  They are also
impressively light.

On Thursday, September 22, 2022, zem...@gmail.com  wrote:

> I have tried and failed for years to love and get comfortable on leather
> saddles. I've really put in the miles so I'm fairly certain that this isn't
> a "break in period" issue. I've been through a couple Brooks and Stelle
> Anatomica.
>
> I'd like to get some non-leather saddles a try but there are so many it's
> hard to know where to start. I'm riding a San Marcos (similar to Homer or
> Roadini) with an Albatross bar about an inch above the saddle.
>
> Do you have a favourite non-leather saddle that's comfortable for you in a
> similar riding configuration?
>
> Zack
> Toronto, Canada
>
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Re: [RBW] YOUR BACK SHRINKING

[Karl Wilcox]

Yes, I used to be 6’7” tall.  At 62, I am now one inch shorter.  I have
moved my saddle closer to the bars.  It immediately solved my aching lower
back on steep climbs.

On Thursday, September 22, 2022, 'Charlie' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>  I USED TO RIDE ON DROP BARS . ONE TIME I NOTICED I WAS RIDING ON THE TOPS
> ONLY.  SO I CHANGED TO UP BARS ( 3 SPEED BARS ) . I HAD LOST 2-3 INCHES IN
> MY HEIGHT.
> I NOW RIDE A SMALLER BIKE .
> Charlie Petry JENERSVILLE PA
>
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Re: [RBW] Do Roadinis ride tall?

[Karl Wilcox]

I am 6’6” tall, so I ride ‘tall’ no matter what.  I ride a 61cm Roadini,
but do not find that it rides taller than my other frames (I have a 69cm
Mercian frame, for example).  But, I also ride with my bars about 1 inch
below saddle height.  If you lowered your bars, the feeling of riding tall
would probably change.

On Saturday, September 10, 2022, Piaw Na  wrote:

> I recently acquired a Roadini, and I've been puzzling over the way it
> rides. It feels a lot taller than my custom touring bike, which was itself
> based on a 1993 Bridgestone RB-1 geometry with longer chainstays (43cm) and
> a 80mm BB drop. The Roadini has a 75mm BB drop, and I've got 28mm tires on
> the Roadini vs 25mm on my touring bike, so in theory, that's only an 8mm
> difference in BB height. But when I ride the Roadini it feels a lot taller
> than that! Strangely enough, that doesn't affect handling on climbs or on
> gravel, but on descents it makes me slow down quite a bit in comparison
> with my custom bike. Did anyone experience anything similar?
>
> I've attached my frame geometry, and the Roadini 54cm geometry is here:
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/files/ROADINI-540-Geo.jpg?
> 7649874663519573416
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Club Rides On A Racing Platypus

[Karl Wilcox]

But aren’t carbon rims ridiculously expensive?

On Monday, August 15, 2022, Max S  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> This is a deeply and widely explored topic. There are some numbers and
> graphs to look at here:  https://www.wheelscience.com/pages/aero-v-weight
> In my personal experience, deep rims can save me ~10-20 watts, depending
> on how fast and where I ride. So, it can get me from 16.5 to 17.0 mph or to
> 17.5 mph average over a 50 mile ride on our local gravel roads, for
> example.
> If those rims are carbon, that nets a 1.3-1.5 kg wheelset that is both
> aerodynamic AND sturdy. If I try to hit that weight mark with aluminum
> rims, I get a less aerodynamic and a flimsier wheelset.
> Speaking for myself, the upshot of running deep dish carbon wheels is that
> they let me give up an hour of sleep the night before to keep up with my
> riding pal... But if you're riding by yourself, and your sleep hygiene is
> good, and you're eating right, and you're not checking the local rankings
> on various "segments" on Strava, it doesn't make much difference.
> Well, no, let me take that back. What I've discovered of late in riding
> gravel roads is that half of my aluminum rims have developed dents, whereas
> the carbon wheels have not. I'm not a particularly heavy rider and I like
> to think I'm a careful rider. But running the same size tires on carbon
> wheels seems to not result in the same number of dents. Now this will
> probably at some point turn into a chipped / delaminated section on that
> carbon rim, but for now, they seem to suffer fewer of those dents.
> Carbon frames and forks do save a significant amount of weight – expect
> about 2-3 lbs saved over a similarly sized steel frame & fork, especially
> from Rivendell. The weight is felt on the hills – about 10 seconds per mile
> of climbing at 4-5% gradients, in my experience, but I could be
> mis-remembering. It's easy to stick two extra 2-liter soda bottles in your
> saddlebag and test the effect quantitatively and qualitatively for yourself.
> If the above makes me sound like a carbon apologist, I'll say that all my
> bikes have steel frames and forks, and most have aluminum rims. I just
> prefer those for now, for a variety of reasons. But sometimes I do ride
> carbon wheels and enjoy the looks and the very very slight speed benefits,
> and noticeable durability benefits for some aspects of my riding.
>
> - Max "who should be working on getting more sleep rather than re-gluing
> his tires" in A2
> On Monday, August 15, 2022 at 12:30:36 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Pretty Sotherland, and that's one of the most interesting head badges
>> I've seen. The motto in full is "Sans peur et sans reproche" -- "Without
>> fear and without blame" or generally, "Beyond fear and reproach," the motto
>> of the ideal knight of chivalry.
>>
>> I'm just asking this (of the group) and not reproaching: Do carbon fork
>> and aero carbon fiber wheels make that much of a difference over a good
>> steel fork and say lightweight tubulars or RH extralight clinchers at less
>> than race speeds?
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 12, 2022 at 2:03 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Today was a women’s ride. 29 miles at over 16 mph, and it was great.
>>> Such a nice group of women. Many of them ride TO the ride, and then ride
>>> home again. I come from the opposite end of the city, so I am always stuck
>>> driving. Anyway, I have some photos but first let’s take a minute to
>>> appreciate this lugged, steel bike that belongs to my ride leader. You’ll
>>> see her decals say “Sotherland.” That does happen to be her name, yes, but
>>> it is also the builder’s name. John Sotherland used to build the Rivendell
>>> frames in the Waterford days; he has since opened his own shop. John is a
>>> brother-in-law to my ride leader, and he made her this beautiful pink and
>>> white fade bike in 1988. This is the original paint job. I did not have
>>> time to ask about the fork, but aren’t her chainstays interesting? We were
>>> pulled over on a highway waiting for a rider to fix her flat, so I
>>> hurriedly took these few shots.
>>>
>>> Save this one bike, all the rest were carbon.
>>> Leah
>>>
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Heat in the Bay

[Karl Wilcox]

Yes, 114 is extremely rare in the East Bay, but I live up in the hills of
the North Bay (Napa Valley) and while we were told by media that our high
was 112, my weather station under my covered front porch (shade) indicated
a high of 91 degrees.  I also did my 30 mile ride with a six mile climb at
12.00 noon, and did not ‘feel’ like I was climbing in extreme heat.  These
numbers have been exaggerated all week, but maybe these are urban temps;
not rural.

On Friday, September 9, 2022, George Schick  wrote:

> Just got a regular email from Will announcing bike frame availability
> among other things.  "Other things" include his comment that last Tuesday
> the temps reached 114 degrees!!?  Isn't that a rare temperature for the Bay
> area in NoCal?
>
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Re: [RBW] Going around in circles with shifters.

[Karl Wilcox]

Thanks Nick for the tip— I always preferred 8 speed, now I can run it again.

On Thursday, September 1, 2022, Nick Shoemaker 
wrote:

> I've always run 10sp Campy brifters with a Shimano 8sp cassette on my San
> Marcos. No funky cable trickery required, you just set them up like normal
> and end up with 7 functional clicks using any standard Shimano derailleur.
> I think it's far-and-away the most riv-ish option for brifters if you look
> for the alloy ones that look like this (the cutout lever is key!):
>
>
> [image: PsPtM.jpg]
>
> They are:
>
>- silver
>- conspicuously mechanical
>- fully rebuildable
>- confusing to the matchy-matchy sensibilities of Serious Cyclists™
>- different from nearly every other riv build
>- shifters
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 10:33:11 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> [image: 8F29AEE8-D2A8-486C-948A-B8E8155FCE84.jpeg]
>> This seems to be working pretty well.
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:03:00 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> While I get everyone trying to sell on you new parts and all Ben but it
>>> seems it's a cable routing issue. Why not call Riv and ask someone there as
>>> they've seen countless setups applicable to yours if you're not sure how to
>>> do a "super long" cable run ?  For that matter, the simplicity and
>>> universality of DT shifters is often overlooked. So you've got to move your
>>> body to shift, so ? !
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:57:10 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:02:35 AM UTC-7 shopmonkey 39 wrote:

> Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a
> handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to 
> turn
> your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works
> great in friction mode.
>
>
 I've tried this, and yeah, friction is a little better but still stiff.


> Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can
> look for something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and
> the extra run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the
> basket.
>

 I actually am running 42cm highway one bars. I'm not sure what you mean
 by more run out. However, I'm thinking maybe I can do something like start
 to run the housing out of the bar tape once the bar starts to curve upward.
 This might make the shifter cables run upward out of the bars rather than
 forward?


> Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for
> basket bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would
> choose it over STI everytime.
>

 I had considered these, but I wish I could try them first. I've never
 seen them in real life.


>
> Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also
> keep in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can
> sometimes hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my
> bag was stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.
>

 This is a fantastic point. Shimano STIs on a set of 42cm wide bars with
 a loaded front basket seems like a bad idea.

 Thanks for your thoughts!
 Ben

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Karl Wilcox]

Velocity will replace cracked rims.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:55 PM Wesley  wrote:

> Hi Catherina,
> Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the
> problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have
> any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting
> chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by
> swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the
> crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that
> isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to
> say one way or the other.
>
> Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to get
> Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt
> circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get
> 10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.
>
> -Wes
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up
>> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in
>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides.
>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively
>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims
>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a
>> couple of spokes. Pictures below.
>>
>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my
>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed
>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small
>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in
>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of
>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of
>> drivetrain for reference below.
>>
>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to
>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I
>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub,
>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting
>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an
>> entirely new wheel.
>>
>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>
>>1.
>>
>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want
>>to fix the shifting?
>>2.
>>
>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they
>>would be willing to sell.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Roadini vs San Marcos

[Karl Wilcox]

I have both the Roadini and the San Marcos.  They are essentially the same
frame in terms of design.  The only difference is that the San Marcos can
take 38c tires, and my 2018 Roadini only accommodates 35's.  The San Marcos
in my size also has the double top tube.  I actually think that the Roadini
is just slightly stiffer (less compliant).  Owning both of these frames is
probably redundant, but I use the San Marcos for gravel/dirt rides and long
endurance stuff (brevets), and I have the Roadini set up to be a light and
fast club bike.  I would say that the Roadini is less compliant when riding
fast and hard whereas the San Marcos is just too compliant when trying to
stay with the fast group on steep hills and out of the saddle (rear end
flexes rather alot, but, then, I am 6'6" tall and 205 lbs).  I guess you
could say that the Roadini is the frame for riding fast/hard as compared to
the San Marcos.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 5:23 PM zem...@gmail.com  wrote:

> I have been happily riding my San Marcos for a few years but have always
> been curious about the Roadini. Has anyone ever had the pleasure of riding
> both, and could comment on the differences? I'm considering going for one
> in the upcoming presale.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Karl Wilcox]

Now that is a bicycle I would buy!  The drops just seem perfect to me...
encouraging to see drops on a Rivendell!

On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 6:12 PM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> Yes!! I was hoping to hear from the other proto owners.  Yours is the
> reverse of mine. I have a Gallop headbadge but protovelo decals and your
> has the gallop decals but no headbadge.  Love the color on that one. How is
> it with drops? Are you planning to keep it that way? Do they have mini-V's
> on that? It looks like it might.
>
> On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 9:02:15 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> Introducing MY protovelo Charlie (54cm), if it's okay for me to join you
>> in this thread Johnny!
>>
>> Quick neighborhood ride today between meetings in exactly the trim it
>> came in, because I'll be swapping parts around from here on out and wanted
>> to document the starting point.
>>
>> [image: PXL_20220210_234926117.jpg]
>>
>> On Thursday, 10 February 2022 at 05:57:35 UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> @Eric I missed your question yesterday. I use it for all my road riding.
>>> I normally (In the warmer months) ride a few times a week and about 10
>>> miles at a time. I like light trails rides but those require me driving to
>>> them so I don't do them as often and am in the process of getting another
>>> bike setup for those rides and for shopping runs.  This one will stick to
>>> the fun quick road rides. I did do a couple of "tour" rides with it last
>>> year. Those were in the 50-75 miles range.  I still had the Billie bars at
>>> that time and it all worked well.  I have it built to be pretty light and
>>> IMO it rides like a great road bike should. The front end was flexy with
>>> the old Nitto stem and wide Billie bars. I am curious as to how the new
>>> setup will affect that. Its still pretty cold so my rides have been very
>>> short. The long wheelbase makes fast descents solid and fun.  Its a new
>>> experience doing all of my riding upright now but so far I don't have a
>>> desire to go back. (although I do love Albastache bars).
>>>
>>> I am a bit shocked that Rivendell is going to make these available with
>>> albastache bars stock.  I normally run the albastache on a shorter stem
>>> than my drops. So if I ride drops on an 8 I would put an albastache on a 7
>>> or more likely a 6.  It's because I spend more time stretched out into the
>>> "hook" area which is not something I do as often on regular drops. There I
>>> spend the bulk of my time on the top or hoods.  The Gallop is designed for
>>> sweptback bars so in order to do drops you would need a very short stem
>>> unless you have a long torso.  For me to do albastache I would probably
>>> need one of those zero extension bars. I think they should keep pushing the
>>> sweptbacks. I think the choco and losco/tosco are going to be the sweet
>>> spot but I will know more in a few weeks when things start to warm up.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 9, 2022 at 10:02:47 PM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 I forgot that I was so positive about the Ultradynamicos.  I had the
 JFF version which is not the most supple but also not the most robust.
 They rode well but after awhile for mostly road use the little knobs or
 whatever they are just seemed to be a drag. I think they would do really
 well for light trail use but for straight road use they just ended up
 seeming a little overbuilt for what they want to be.  I was loving life
 when I first got this bike and I think I was overlooking aspects of the
 tire that later became more apparent. I never tried the race version but
 for the money I think there are better riding and more supple options. Many
 of them cheaper too.
 On Wednesday, February 9, 2022 at 9:31:28 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> I too was surprised to see you ended up not feeling the Cava's, though
> I wholeheartedly agree that the RH tires are vastly more comfortable.  I
> find the UD Cava to be a nice mix of speed and grip for mixed pavement and
> hardpack, but their casings don't feel very supple/comfortable even in 
> Race
> version.
>
>
> On Wednesday, 9 February 2022 at 18:19:38 UTC-8 Justin wrote:
>
>> The cockpit change up was an improvement, looks great. Curious about
>> the Ultradynamicos. In your original post you highly recommended them but
>> ended up not caring for them, curious what changed? I've been waiting on
>> their restocking
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 9, 2022 at 5:22:42 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Looks great, Johnny.
>>>
>>> Can you tell us about the ride? How does it handle and what kinds of
>>> rides have you taken it on?
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 9, 2022 at 3:30:55 PM UTC-5 Johnny Alien
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Updated photos:

- New stem (I like the positive degree angle and also wanted
something with a removable faceplate)

Re: [RBW] Favorite 26" tires

[Karl Wilcox]

I won't pile on, but Compass tires are boutique cycling at its best!  In
other words, I can't afford them (I ride too much).  And, then, one blew
out at the sidewall on a 40 mile descent.  No reason; just an apparently
'flawed' sidewall (and, of course, a very thin sidewall in order to achieve
that lovely suppleness).  If I want supple fast tires, I will got back to
sew-ups.  At 61, crashes at 40 mph result in rather long recovery times.
My Compass  blow-out is probably an outlier, and not to be used to slander
Compass quality, etc.  Still, you can have light, you can have strong, but
can you really have both in the same tire?

On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 6:31 PM exliontamer  wrote:

> I love Rene Herse tires and have them on two of my three bikes but
> hesitate recommending them blindly. I've never flatted on one but have
> seen(and heard) of a lot of people flatting constantly on them. Jan likes
> drilling that they're good for everything and that you'll leave roadies in
> the dust while being comfortable but they're still a tire that requires
> riding diligence. That said, I don't think they're the smartest choice for
> a commuting tire in most places. I second whoever saying that if you
> thought the Schwalbes were bad at picking up cuts to avoid the RH tires.
>
> On Sunday, February 6, 2022 at 7:00:01 AM UTC-6 Fullylugged wrote:
>
>> Third for the Contact Speed.  32mm.  They  also come in 650B.  If you can
>> find them, Conti also makes the Grand Prix in 25mm in 26" size.
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 11:36:26 PM UTC-6 exliontamer wrote:
>>
>>> Strong second for the Continental Contact Speed. Perfect combo of speed,
>>> comfort, and durability. They're worth double what they sell for.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 9:38:09 PM UTC-6 Ken Mattina wrote:
>>>
 I really like the Continental Contact Speed. They're a little hard to
 find but available on ebay and amazon.

 On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 5:19 PM Lynn Haas  wrote:

> I moved to Iowa this year, and am experiencing my first Iowa winter. I
> never expected to spend this much time on a trainer. I even signed up for
> Zwift. Why is there a bike path inside a volcano?
>
> Anyway, my Panaracer Paselas have a weird spot where the casing joins
> that goes thunk-thunk-thunk on the rollers. It's driving me nuts. I don't
> want to put a trainer tire on the bike. I want to believe that I'm going 
> to
> go ride outside again sometime before the end of time.
>
> What are the favored 26 inch road-ish tire favorites these days? I
> have had and disliked Schwalbes. My last set of Marathon Supremes picked 
> up
> an ungodly array of laceration-inducing, afternoon-ruining, sharp objects.
> I was quite pleased with the Panaracers until I started riding inside. My
> downstairs neighbors are probably unhappy with the thunk-thunk-thunk, too.
> It definitely scares the cat. I'm on an MUSA Atlantis and could go up to
> about 40mm with my fender setup. Ideas?
>
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> .
>


 --
 Where did the spring go?
 Where did my hormones go?
 Where did my energy go?
 Where did my go go?
 Where did the pleasure go?
 Where did my hair go?

 -- Ray Davies

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm a New Bike Commuter

[Karl Wilcox]

It's slightly off the topic of commuting bags, but over the many years I
have commuted via pedals (from age 17 to age 61), I discovered that a
single speed or fixed gear commute bike was ideal: much fewer repairs, no
malfunctions, and really strong wheels (the latter cannot be overstressed--
no pun intended)!  The Rivendell 'Quickbeam' was perfect (with moustache
bars to get leverage for accelerations and easy hills).  The fixed gear is
less ideal if you have long steep hills, but most commutes do not.  I found
that fixed gear was far better in terms of both speed and efficiency on my
commutes.  Now my commute is uphill most of the way, so I am using my
Teesdale touring bike, but the fixed gear was the best ever for all my
other flat or rolling commutes.

On Sun, Feb 6, 2022 at 9:27 AM  wrote:

> On my commutes I also carried a large thermos full of coffee since our
> office coffee was pretty bad. It added weight but coffee is worth the extra
> effort.
>
> I basically work from home now so I have to find excuses to get out and do
> errands throughout the week to ride.
>
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 6, 2022, at 8:17 AM, Roberta  wrote:
>
> 
> These days it's semi-casual, but I still need to look sort-of
> professional.  I wear my top and  just change my shoes and pants because
> they can get dirty on the trip.  Last week I got one leg soaked when a
> driver ran over a big puddle at full speed.
>
> I think I'll keep shoes in the office, so will only be totting pants and
> lunch.  I am going to try Tom's bag in a pannier option on my Platypus, and
> with the bag in a basket option on the She-Devil.
>
> I loved reading everyone's responses and seeing your enthusiasm.  Thank
> you.
>
> Roberta
>
>
> On Saturday, February 5, 2022 at 12:33:47 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> Roberta,
>> One thing I may have missed is what sort of work attire do you need to
>> carry?
>> Two miles is a relatively short distance and unless it’s really humid or
>> raining, you may not need to change.
>> If your clothes need to be neatly pressed then you will need to keep them
>> neatly folded for your commute.
>> A basked with some sort of tote bag would likely cover most of your needs
>> and keeping some work clothes at work could cover you for the days you
>> really need to change.
>> When I commuted 10 miles each way, I changed at work.
>> When I commuted 3 miles each way, I rode in my work clothes.
>> Neither job required dress attire.
>> A backpack in hot weather doesn’t appeal to me but 2 miles gives to tons
>> of flexibility.
>>
>> Congratulations on your short commute. What a blessing to have so many
>> hours liberated from your workweek.
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> On Saturday, February 5, 2022 at 6:57:50 AM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:
>>
>>> *" I have one of those cheap packable backpacks
>>> 
>>> that folds up into its own pocket.  I use it for my work stuff and slide it
>>> inside the pannier, basket or saddle bag.  That helps me keep my stuff more
>>> organized. "--Tom*
>>>
>>>
>>> This is brilliant!!!  I like simplicity and no fuss.  The She-Devil
>>> already has a basket and the Platypus, I expect, will soon have panniers.
>>> If I take my third bike H. Homer Hilsen for a long after work ride, I can
>>> use the Riv Saddle Sack, so it won't matter which bike I'll take--I'll be
>>> set.
>>>
>>> It's so great reading about everyone's experiences.
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 2:44:41 PM UTC-5 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>>
 In my years of commuting I've used:
 1) Milk Crate
 2) Wald Basket
 3) Panniers
 4) Saddle Bag (Riv Large Saddle Sack)

 I have one of those cheap packable backpacks
 
 that folds up into its own pocket.  I use it for my work stuff and slide 
 it *inside
 *the pannier, basket or saddle bag.  That helps me keep my stuff more
 organized. I also sling it on my back when I'm locking up my bike, etc. . I
 borrowed the idea from a friend, so I can't take credit.  If you use a
 basket I recommend a foam pad for the bottom, though.
 For short trips my preference would be a basket.  It stays on the bike,
 is transparent to the wind when empty, and keeps my stuff in view.

 Tom

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[RBW] Re: I'm a New Bike Commuter

[Karl Wilcox]

I used a large Messenger Bag for a 20 mile commute for many years-- very 
handy because I did not need racks, and you can just get off the bike and 
walk to the office.  I carried up to 20 pounds in the Messenger Bag with no 
discomfort; I would never use a backpack (sweaty back and load too high on 
the back for comfort).  Alternatively, I have often used front panniers on 
a load-rider rack (better handling).  At present, I am using a Carradice 
Nelson Long Flap Saddle bag with a rack under it, but I can now just park 
my bike in the office, so no need to detach bag.  In High School, I used a 
Kirtland Large Handlebar Bag, but it really messed with steering! 
 Experiment.

On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 6:33:29 AM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:

> After living in the city for decades, my company moved its office and I 
> can finally bike or walk commute--just under 2 miles each way.   I've been 
> varying my method based on the weather (I don't like riding in the rain, 
> snow or ice) and both are fabulous ways to start and end the day, 
> physically and mentally.  Most of the ride is on streets with bike lanes.  
> I'll be riding one of my two step-through's--Platypus or She-Devil.  I can 
> take the bike into my office.
>
> I like using a backpack for walking, but not sure about riding.   What do 
> you use for a short commuter trips--backpack (current preference, not not 
> sure how hot I'll find it in the warmer months), pannier or saddle bag (I 
> have a Riv Small Saddlesack).  I have rack or rack and basket on the back 
> of each bike. I'll be carrying lunch, a change of clothes and shoes.
>
> I have lots of lights and reflectors on the bikes.  Any other suggestions?
>
> Roberta
>

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Re: [RBW] Roadini heavy?

[Karl Wilcox]

;> Neal,
>>>
>>> I’m the one you sold the Roadini to and I’m happy to report that I’m
>>> loving it! I swapped the 80mm stem for a 60mm and it put me in a slightly
>>> more upright position which causes no pain whatsoever. Every other drop bar
>>> bike I’ve owned just didn’t feel right after a few hours of riding. Thank
>>> you again!
>>>
>>> Joe
>>> Los Angeles, CA
>>>
>>
>> Joe, that's great to hear. And a great example of how
>> individual/ideosyncratic the fit and ride qualities of any bike might be.
>> Ride in good health!
>>
>> Neal Lerner
>> Brookline MA USA
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 29, 2022, at 3:43 PM, nlerner  wrote:
>>>
>>> I owned a Roadini for a relatively short time before selling it to
>>> someone on this list, I believe. I liked the aesthetics a lot, but did find
>>> it on the sluggish side and have other bikes that fit the “country bike”
>>> theme that I found myself riding instead. Previous to that, I owned a
>>> Romulus, which saw many miles and lots of brevet riding, but also was
>>> always a bit on the sluggish side, particularly when climbing. Still, it
>>> was a really comfortable rig, and well suited to distance riding as long as
>>> the hills weren’t too brutal. I sold that once I got a Black Mountain Road,
>>> which checks all of the boxes for me: great fit, room for 35mm tires, great
>>> climber, planes like the dickens, super comfortable and versatile. So no
>>> I’m Riv-less (even sold my ‘94 RB-T!), but I enjoy reading this list.
>>>
>>>
>>> Neal Lerner
>>> Brookline MA USA
>>>
>>> On Saturday, January 29, 2022 at 1:46:17 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
>>>> The tubing spec needs to be matched well with the geometry to provide
>>>> what Jan calls planing - the flex in the frame needs to match your power
>>>> output and rhythm to give you a small but important "springboard" effect
>>>> with each pedal stroke, in order to feel fast.  It really has little to
>>>> nothing to do with the weight of the frame, but about how it is tuned to
>>>> the rider.
>>>>
>>>> However, Jan tends to think that this basically requires superlight
>>>> tubing, but I don't think that's quite true - I think the "rhythm" can be
>>>> found in multiples, like harmonics, but if the stiffness of your bike lands
>>>> between these harmonics, then it'll feel like you're trying to bounce on a
>>>> trampoline where it's out of sync with your jumps. My wild theory is that
>>>> the Rivendells that ride like magic despite being objectively quite
>>>> overbuilt for a "fast" bike manage to land in the next stiffer "harmonic"
>>>> for the average rider. I think my Sam does this for me and I think the
>>>> Roadini could very well end up in this zone too.
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, 28 January 2022 at 13:21:45 UTC-8 kwi...@weimar.edu wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The Roadini is a very nice looking bike, too.  I hope this does not
>>>>> sound superficial, but I enjoy the head badge, the decals, and the painted
>>>>> cutouts on the seat lug more than if it were just 2 pounds lighter!  Also,
>>>>> I rode a 'Redwood' (tall Romulus) frame back in the 2000's and really 
>>>>> liked
>>>>> it, but the Roadini is a more advance frame design in general (long head
>>>>> tube, sloping top tube, wheel clearance, and more.).  I have an old Calfee
>>>>> carbon frame I got used.  It is very light.  But I hardly ride it.  Why?
>>>>> Hard to say, but I suspect that it has a lot to do with how the Roadini
>>>>> feels 'planted' or secure (words fail me here), but on the human level, I
>>>>> just prefer the look of the Roadini-- it has character and a timeless
>>>>> beauty that makes the sum of all its parts more than just a 'fast bike', a
>>>>> 'super light frame', or even a practical 'get the job done' machine.  And,
>>>>> of course, it is always comfortable!  This is key: the Roadini does not
>>>>> cause neck pain, back pain, hand tingling or stress from the worry of 
>>>>> going
>>>>> down if I hit a pot hole.   I won't be selling mine.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 12:48:36 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Well said, Ka

Re: [RBW] Roadini heavy?

[Karl Wilcox]

The Roadini is a very nice looking bike, too.  I hope this does not sound 
superficial, but I enjoy the head badge, the decals, and the painted 
cutouts on the seat lug more than if it were just 2 pounds lighter!  Also, 
I rode a 'Redwood' (tall Romulus) frame back in the 2000's and really liked 
it, but the Roadini is a more advance frame design in general (long head 
tube, sloping top tube, wheel clearance, and more.).  I have an old Calfee 
carbon frame I got used.  It is very light.  But I hardly ride it.  Why? 
 Hard to say, but I suspect that it has a lot to do with how the Roadini 
feels 'planted' or secure (words fail me here), but on the human level, I 
just prefer the look of the Roadini-- it has character and a timeless 
beauty that makes the sum of all its parts more than just a 'fast bike', a 
'super light frame', or even a practical 'get the job done' machine.  And, 
of course, it is always comfortable!  This is key: the Roadini does not 
cause neck pain, back pain, hand tingling or stress from the worry of going 
down if I hit a pot hole.   I won't be selling mine.

On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 12:48:36 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Well said, Karl. Add to that the probably (I've not ridden one) signature 
> Rivendell handling of the Roadini* and the pros may well outweigh the cons. 
> And of course, weighing the balance between pros and cons is largely a 
> matter of individual taste.
>
> Patrick Moore, ruthlessly botton-trimming his replies, in ABQ, NM.
>
> * I certainly loved this in the customs, and found it in the Ram and even 
> in the Sam, tho' the same had too much wheel flop for my taste.
>
> On Fri, Jan 28, 2022 at 1:31 PM Karl Wilcox  wrote:
>
>> It might be helpful when considering a Roadini to observe that frame 
>> stiffness or compliance are not the only things that matter.  I find my 
>> Roadini stiffer than I prefer, but the
>> Roadini offers other features that I just can't find in other production 
>> frames.  For instance, the roadini fits me perfectly and I can get my bars 
>> up higher without making the bicycle appear silly or handle funny (my bars 
>> are exactly 1 inch below my saddle height).  Also, I can ride 33c tires (I 
>> have the 2018 roadini), and the long wheelbase is wonderful.  The Roadini 
>> is also versatile: I ride it on trails and on pavement.  I can ride with 
>> fast club rides and I can do light touring, too.  I have a 1977 custom 
>> Mercian that is wonderfully compliant, but on fast descents it can be scary 
>> and it cannot carry any kind of load.  My point is that the Roadini has 
>> many virtues, but no individual frame can be any other frame. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Roadini heavy?

[Karl Wilcox]

It might be helpful when considering a Roadini to observe that frame
stiffness or compliance are not the only things that matter.  I find my
Roadini stiffer than I prefer, but the
Roadini offers other features that I just can't find in other production
frames.  For instance, the roadini fits me perfectly and I can get my bars
up higher without making the bicycle appear silly or handle funny (my bars
are exactly 1 inch below my saddle height).  Also, I can ride 33c tires (I
have the 2018 roadini), and the long wheelbase is wonderful.  The Roadini
is also versatile: I ride it on trails and on pavement.  I can ride with
fast club rides and I can do light touring, too.  I have a 1977 custom
Mercian that is wonderfully compliant, but on fast descents it can be scary
and it cannot carry any kind of load.  My point is that the Roadini has
many virtues, but no individual frame can be any other frame.

On Fri, Jan 28, 2022 at 9:08 AM Brady Smith  wrote:

> This is a helpful thread. I was ready to jump on the next Roadini
> shipment, but this would be replacing a Jamis Aurora I no longer need, and
> that's already an old school touring bike with heavy-ish tubing and stable,
> boring ride quality. I have a bike's worth of parts parts that need a
> rim-brake home--thinking about getting another BMC monster cross instead.
>
> Brady in SLC
> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 9:54:40 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> It is a great orange :)
>>
>> On Friday, January 28, 2022, Jingy  wrote:
>>
>>> I bought the Roadini from Eric Daume after he was done with it. I like
>>> it, but I don't love it(other than the orange color). I've ridden it with a
>>> variety of 28-38mm wide tires. It handles fine,  and the fit is
>>> comfortable, it's just not a lively ride. I think it's overbuilt. If you
>>> are looking for a burly roadish bike, it may work for you, but if you are
>>> looking for a zippy road bike with fender and tire clearance, this isn't
>>> it.
>>> I was hoping for a budget Roadeo. I would like to try a Roadeo, but now
>>> I fear it is overbuilt as well. My wacked-out conspiracy theory is that all
>>> Rivs are overbuilt now because they can't afford to have any warranty
>>> claims.
>>> I have been meaning to sell the Roadini for months now, because I have
>>> other bikes I like(love) better, but I have been dragging my feet because
>>> orange! Plus I'm lazy about selling things.
>>>
>>> Jim in Mpls
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 8:43:17 PM UTC-6 Mike Godwin wrote:
>>>
 Regarding the Reynolds tubed bikes, my 1997 Lemond Zurich planed for me
 (Reynolds 853 61cm frame, me usually around 180 elbows). Max tire size is
 700x30. And it was a real hoot riding as a 650b conversion. The 650b
 conversion seemed to amplify the plani-ness of the frame. Its too bad those
 bikes don't fit 35 mm tires, in 622 size.  All City bikes are 853 too, but
 not all of them. I believe they accept tires wider than 30 mm.  Perhaps an
 All City may work for you. I have not had the opportunity to ride an All
 City bike.

 Mike SLO CA

 On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 6:28:39 PM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:

> A couple of summers ago, I sold my Cross Check to buy a Roadini. I
> liked the high stack of the Roadini (61cm), but the CC had better brakes,
> more clearance, more flexibility, and rode better.
>
> The Roadini felt like an old school touring bike to me.
>
> Eric
>
> On Thu, Jan 27, 2022 at 2:44 PM Ezra  wrote:
>
>> Greetings RBW Owners. My first post to the forum.
>>
>> Have you been a Roadini owner? Did the bike please you? I've heard
>> tell that Roadini's feel sluggish and heavy for road bikes. I've never
>> owned a Riv but I'm interested in trying them out. I'd be setting up the
>> bike with Waive bars.
>>
>> I'd also be interested to know what size you are. I've also heard
>> that Rivs tend to feel better on the larger side. No idea if it's true.
>>
>> Thanks for indulging my questions. I always find buying bikes sight
>> unseen difficult.
>>
>> Ezra
>> Michigan
>>
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Re: [RBW] Roadini heavy?

[Karl Wilcox]

I ride a Roadini: I like the frame, but the tubing is not very 'lively' or
'compliant'.  It is a stable frame (I have hit over 50 miles per hour on
Sierra descents without a wobble), but I would be happier with the frame if
it was less stiff.  I ride the largest Roadini, and I have wondered if the
smaller frames are even more stolid.  I like to ride both slow and fast,
and when I am riding fast with my local club, my Roadini just lacks the
compliance that I like.  But, having said that, it does not hold me back or
make me slow; it just feels more like a frame intended for riding with
about a 15-20 pound load as opposed to a pure club frame.  It rides alot
like my old Schwinn Superior fillet brazed frame-- solid, dependable,
utilitarian but not spirited.  But if you routinely carry a load or if you
like to do some light touring, it would be the ticket, I think.
Cheers,
Karl

On Thu, Jan 27, 2022 at 2:51 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> For *road bikes,* not for, say, Clems or Platypuses*.* This was the
> subject of others' comments.
>
> And I forgot to add: My first gen Sam Hill, built much like the 42 mm
> Naches Pass Matthews for pavement-biased all-rounder use, and very nice in
> many ways, also felt (with Sam Brown Greens) -- not so much sluggish as
> "uninspired." It didn't jump with alacrity as the #2 or even the second gen
> Ram (1.35 Kojaks). Again, tubing?
>
> On Thu, Jan 27, 2022 at 3:39 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> ... some people may find (and others have said this to me) that Rivendell
>> tubing, which tends toward the large and thick type, may be less rewarding
>> than narrower tubes with thinner walls.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anticipating the 13-42 7 speed cassette

[Karl Wilcox]

Best gear combination for me (Sierra mountain region) is a 46x30 on the
front and a 13-34 or 36 7 speed on the back.  I get the 7 speed cassette by
taking apart a 10 speed cassette and putting just 7 cogs on the hub (my
rear hub is 120mm).  It works great with friction, and with the 120mm hub,
I get a very quiet ride and a strong wheel.  My only gripe is that I am
stuck with using the 11 tooth small cog.

On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 4:16 PM Garth  wrote:

> This goes along with what I've always known is that we've long reached the
> point of folly with not only bike parts but pretty much every thing we use
> in our everyday living. I don't want or need a 1x geared bike as I'm
> perfectly happy with "normal" triples and even doubles like a 36/46 and not
> that silly granny/middle ring double and a micro cassette. Regardless of my
> opinion about such setups I surely support anyone that wants to ride them.
> Life thrives on variety, and it's a self-defeating blindness of
> corporations like SRAM/Shimano that try to force people into using their
> products by discontinuing perfectly good working parts. The quest for
> control is death. Corporations are doing it with electric autos now too.
> The time for relying on the big corpses has past. Now is the time for even
> the seemingly smallest of operations to resurrect or continue all these
> perfectly good working parts that aren't subject to the wavering
> instability of change-for-changes-sake.
>
> I'm glad Riv is offering 7 speed stuff again as it should have never been
> pushed aside in the first place.Not only is there room for everyone's
> setups, it is the only "norm" that exists.
> This distinct individuality is our Unity. It's inherent in/as our Being,
> choiceless , changeless.  We can no more fall from grace that we can return
> to it. We are pure Grace !
> On Saturday, January 15, 2022 at 3:39:02 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I see Grant's point about triples, I just don't agree with it. My custom
>> runs a 36 × 11-51 11-speed and I love not messing with two shifters and the
>> chain-suck/drop issues that come with front derailers. One is enough! (for
>> me)
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Saturday, January 15, 2022 at 12:24:26 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:
>>
>>> It'll be interesting to see what cog sizes the 13-42 has.  I imagine the
>>> 13-34 will be the same as the old Shimano (13-15-17-20-24-28-34, IIRC).
>>> Matched up with a 24-36-48 triple it was an excellent, wide range, easy
>>> shifting drive train.  I also enjoyed his discussion of triples in the
>>> latest blahg.  It seems the supposed simplicity of eliminating the FD by
>>> stacking more & thinner cogs in the back is really self-defeating.
>>> Coupling an 11 or 12 cog cassette with a thinner chain a more sensitive RD
>>> & shifter doesn't smack of simplicity.  Kudos to Rivendell for also
>>> resurrecting cassettes with 14 tooth small cogs.
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, January 15, 2022 at 10:17:46 AM UTC-8 Tim Baldwin wrote:
>>>
 I'm also looking forward to the wide range 7 speed cassettes.  I really
 like the idea of a 7 speed rear hub as well as it would lower the dish of
 the wheel. I recall the old Phil wood 7 speed freewheel hubs were dishless
 (never could afford one when they were available). Not sure if that would
 be possible on a cassette hub. This cassette with a single ring up front
 would be great for around town and a double (or triple) up front would have
 a great range for touring.
 Happy to see Grant continuing to come up with new and practical bike
 parts.

 On Saturday, January 15, 2022 at 11:29:25 AM UTC-6 Ray Varella wrote:

> Am I one of the few who thinks this is a great option.
> I applaud Merry Sales for their continued support of everyday
> practical bike gear.
> I will definitely get a couple.
> I am just as eagerly awaiting Rivendell’s V- brake and rear derailer.
> Thank you once again Grant.
>
> Ray
>
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Re: [RBW] ISO Frame Saver.

[Karl Wilcox]

I use a Lanolin based spray (Lanolin is sheep's wool grease) in all tubes--
it is highly water resistant: many years riding in English and Scottish
winter weather with no corrosion on a 40 year Mercian.
Cheers,
Karl

On Tue, Jan 4, 2022 at 8:29 PM Mackenzy Albright <
mackenzy.albri...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've used fluid film on all my bikes. I've ridden in salty northern
> Alberta winters (I'll soak down my chain and other exposed areas and it
> wipes of easy in spring). Standing water for several kilometers. And
> constant heavy rains in the Pacific Northwest and have had great results.
> It's inexpensive and easily available. I respray occasionally when I do a
> maintenance tear down, clean, and grease. I've also ridden 30+ year old
> touring bikes that and MTb's with no treatment and hardly any corrosion on
> the inside. Worst bikes I've worked on were found in alleys and damp
> garages.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 4, 2022 at 11:13:36 AM UTC-7 M Talley wrote:
>
>> Apologies, for the nerd-out dump:
>>  A few years ago I was getting to the end of a can of Weigle's Frame
>> Saver and bought Fluid Film based on this video. There is compelling
>> testing laid out here.
>> "Real World Undercoating Test: Fluid Film, NH Oil, Krown and More..."
>> 
>>
>> When I went back to find that video I see the same youtuber has a new
>> product he likes - Blaster Surface Shield Undercoating. This sounds
>> similarly lanolin-based with an ability to penetrate nooks making it a
>> better auto undercoating. Perhaps no better than FF for bikes?
>> "I Finally Found The Best Undercoating On The Market... Blaster Surface
>> Shield" 
>>
>> It's repeated around the internet - lanolin-based coatings out-perform
>> wax-based.
>>
>> On the topic of ED coating. I've been curious why this treatment isn't
>> more prevalent. An odd case: QBP and it's brands with steel models - some,
>> but not all models are coated. From hands-on (around 2016-19) experience
>> I've seen Surly and All City frames (Bridge Club and Space Horse) with ED
>> coatings and a Salsa without (Vaya). ED is applied to Surly steel
>> handlebars (Moloko, Corner, Sunrise). So is pretty durable - my guess: more
>> durable than powder coating but below plating (nickel, chrome).
>>
>> Looking at the described application process it is understandable why ED
>> adds cost. Info from Handsome Cycles (Link to Wikipedia within their
>> statements goes deeper):
>> https://handsomecycles.com/blogs/culture-guide/what-does-ed-coating-mean-for-bicycles
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> P.S.
>> All of that and for perspective there is Grant's observations on
>> untreated steel:
>> "But if rust were the tube-killer the carb-al-ti folks would have you
>> believe, there wouldn't be hundreds of thousands of 30-year old and
>> routinely neglected steel-framed bicycle still roaming the planet." from
>> here 
>> On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 7:23:54 PM UTC-5 Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>>> Garth,
>>>
>>> I deleted the original post because I answered the question for myself.
>>>
>>> Hugh
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 1:54:51 PM UTC-8 Garth wrote:
>>>
 It's odd that the original post was removed shortly after it was
 posted. I tried to reply but it was gone.

 I'll use Boeshield spray for my next frame.

 FWIW, Progold has a "Steel Frame Protector" spray of their own. It's
 shipable from a few online retailers.

 Frame Saver was bought by Problem Solvers, aka QBP.


 https://www.bicycleretailer.com/product-tech/2019/08/15/frame-saver-becomes-problem-solvers-product-qbp

 On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 3:17:16 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> For a long time the original stuff was from Peter Weigle, I thought.
> Perhaps it still is. Are Riv bikes not E.D. coated?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 31, 2021, at 5:46 PM, Hugh Smitham  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Apparently problem solver purchased frame saver, as far as I can tell
> there are no online retailers selling an aerosol can of it,  perhaps it
> can't be shipped because it's an aerosol can under pressure?  Anyone know
> how I can get my hands on some? Maybe a retailer in the Los Angeles area?
> For obvious reasons most bike stores are closed today through January 3rd.
>
> Happy New year!!
>
> Hugh
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Timeline - it's happening!

[Karl Wilcox]

I am glad to see you got the ‘Redwood’ frame in there!
Cheers,
Karl

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 27, 2021, at 3:29 AM, Fullylugged  wrote:
> 
> Nice Jason, and needed.  The Road was followed quickly by the Road Standard, 
> I think by '96.
> 
>> On Saturday, November 27, 2021 at 1:45:44 AM UTC-6 Jason Fuller wrote:
>> I spent the afternoon and evening trawling the full set of Riv Readers, as 
>> well as old copies of the Rivendell website via archive.org (it was 
>> veloworks.com/rivendell first, then it was rivendellbicycles.com, then moved 
>> to the current home of rivbike.com - I've perused probably upwards of 100's 
>> of snapshots of these sites today).  
>> 
>> I don't have nearly as deep of experience with Rivendell as some of you so I 
>> wanted to run this timeline by y'all and see if you can point out omissions 
>> or errors in my timeline. There are a lot of permutations of some of these 
>> models of course - I have pretty detailed notes about where each model was 
>> made (including many which went through a few shops) in addition to the 
>> timeline, which I plan to include in whatever final form this takes.  
>> 
>> Please let me know if you see something missing or incorrect!  Note: I left 
>> Protovelo's out because I'm not considering prototypes to be relevant; I 
>> might be missing some Rosco's but only the Bubbe 51 and Road 55.5 are ones I 
>> have any info on. The step-thru version seems to have snuck past my research 
>> so far. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Subtle, insidious seatpost slippage on my Clem H driving me crazy

[Karl Wilcox]

I had the same seat post slippage problem with my 2018 Roadini.  I phoned
Rivendell, and the chap on the phone was not very helpful.  I tried the
carbon paste stuff; worked okay for a bit, but then the problem came back.
In the end, I had Chris Kelly (framebuilder in Nevada City) put the seat
post on his lathe and score a pattern into the post surface.  This worked a
treat-- with the scored pattern, the post stays put (it's not visible
except when the seat post is out of the frame).  He did charge me 25
dollars.  Actually, I recall that Rivendell suggested scoring as a
solution, but that was all.  Any one with a metal lathe can easily fix
this... but I do wish that Rivendell would address this problem more
proactively.
Cheers,
Karl
Weimar, CA.

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 6:33 AM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> I'm having the same issue on two bikes, a 2019 Atlantis with 26.8mm tube
> and a 2013 Sam with 27.2mm. Kalloy posts on both bikes. I reset my SH last
> night, marked it with a sharpie, and the sharpie mark was buried in the
> seat post after a my 3 mile ride. Now...I'm 210 pounds so I get that I'm
> going to stress that connection more than most folks. But...I unweight the
> saddle on rough spots and bumps and try to keep a lot of weight on the
> pedals.With my saddle on the bikes, if I loosen the bolt, the post sinks
> in. This is getting a little annoying...I popped the head off a bolt on the
> Sam Saturday and it scared the crap out of me (even though I knew it
> *could* happen).
>
> Is there anyone willing to swear by a particular friction grease to solve
> this issue?
>
> Ben, slipping in Omaha.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 9, 2021 at 2:40:07 PM UTC-5 ack...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Anybody else have issues with their seat post slipping on their Clem H or
>> any other Rivs?  This is driving me crazy.  I am infatuated with this
>> bike.  Favorite ride of all time.  I have a perfect 30 mile SF-Marin
>> Headlands-SF loop that keeps me sane.What is driving me insane however
>> is that my seat post slips down about 1-1.5 inches every time I ride this
>> ride, which involves quite a lot of fire trail.  I have cleaned the inside
>> of the seat tube, I have applied friction grease, I changed the seat bolt
>> and greased and regressed it.  I have heard that maybe a Coke can might
>> work as a shim, but I'd rather resolve the issue without hodging and
>> podging.  Any thoughts?  Advice?  Commiseration?  Thanks all.  I've ridden
>> on a Kalloy and a Thomson seat post, and it doesn't matter which seat post
>> I use, there is slippage.
>> Alex
>>
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Re: [RBW] Wool Anorak and Winter Riding

[Karl Wilcox]

I find that a Pendleton wool shirt is ideal for winter rides, as it has a
'hard' finish that resists wind without adding so much insulation that one
sweats to death on climbs.  It is also a low bulk garment that can easily
fit into a mussette or handlebar bag, etc.  I get my Pendleton wool shirts
on Ebay (I get the older versions in the 'Tall' size; they are nice and
long so that they do not ride up and expose the lower back; they also have
a slim fit to cut down on flapping).  Of course, Rivendell's 'Woolywarm'
lightweight sweaters and sweater vests are also
 ideal, but the hard finish on the Pendelton's cuts wind and adds
insulation for temps around freezing and somewhat above.

On Fri, Nov 5, 2021 at 11:25 AM Benjamin L. Kelley <
benjamin.kel...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dave, I've been wondering the same.   I've had my eye on these finnish
> blanket hoodies for a while now as a multipurpose outdoor shirt.
> https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/jama-blanket-shirt/35226#koko
>
> These folks also seem popular and offer more colorways and
> styles/thicknesses.
> https://asbellwool.com
>
> KC winters are sort of all over the place.  I think a wool anorak type
> thing could overlap a lot of different weather patterns we get, and worn
> like a traditional anorak, loosely, you'd be able to layer up or down
> underneath it and use it as a beefy shell they insulates on its own or as
> part of a system depending what you're facing.
>
> Last year I went with a Wrangler insulated work shirt(the one with the
> sherpa fleece lining on the torso and quilted poly in the arms) for
> everything but precipitation.  Cheap and functional.  Though it did not do
> well with wind, I sized it as a mid layer so I could throw a wind jacket or
> my softshell wind/rain jacket over it.
>
> --ben in KC   (I cut into a local persimmon seed last month and the shape
> was a spoon so we'll have a wet winter if you believe the lore.)
>
> On Fri, Nov 5, 2021 at 11:53 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave:
>>
>> I don’t have much experience with very cold climates, but even here in
>> cold-ish Northern California it’s easy to over-dress. There’s a saying
>> among runners that you “don’t dress for the first mile.” If you leave on a
>> bike ride feeling warm and toasty, you’ll likely feel overheated and sweaty
>> very soon.
>>
>> Maybe rather than a (I assume) heavily insulated anorak, you could invest
>> in several lighter pieces that can be put on and taken off in layers. A
>> wind shell on top to keep the cold wind out, and one or two layers of wool.
>>
>> Eric Norris
>> campyonly...@me.com
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2021, at 9:31 AM, Dave Grossman  wrote:
>>
>> I'm thinking of investing in a wool anorak for winter activities and just
>> wondering if anyone uses one for riding in the winter or if they get a bit
>> too warm?  They are a substantial investment but worth it in my opinion.
>>
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>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: ¡¡Garage Sale!! Frameset, Nitto, Paul, Rene Herse, bags, etc.

[Karl Wilcox]

How long is the steer tube on the Evans Frame?

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 6:08 PM Andrew Turner 
wrote:

> End of day update, here's what's left:
>
> *1: FW Evans Frameset: $400 + half shipping *
> *This is an English-made frameset made in the late 80s, early 90's with
> 531 tubing. Great for touring, commuting, randonneuring, even 'cross. The
> frameset sports a fresh  powdercoat, custom decals and brass head badge
> made by yours truly. The frame had some modifications done to it by Amigo
> Frameworks here in Nashville, including but not limited to some brazeons
> for fenders, a pump peg, extra waterbottle cage brazeon, etc. Small but
> helpful stuff. There's been some chipping here and there but nothing too
> crazy.*
>
> *F**rame size: (C-C): 63ST, 58TT *
> *Steerer has been recently extended for 1" threadless use *
>
> *Color coordinated NOS Cane Creek 1" headset + bike jerks stem cap I'll
> include all the 1" headset spacers I have, carbon and silver alloy.  *
> *Also includes the 1" to 1-1/8" shim for modern stems   *
> *Nitto 65 27.0 seatpost + 2x VO Noir bottle cages*
> *Max tire size: 35mm slicks. Those bald spots inside the chainstays are
> due to the rear QR coming loose and the Bon Jon's rubbing, so it's a very
> snug fit. 32-33 is a much much better fit. 38's WILL NOT FIT.   *
>
> *2: Ruthworks Black Ultralight Brevet Handlebar Bag: $90 + free shipping *
> *Very lightly used, there is a subtle stain on the inside pocket but
> otherwise pretty darn immaculate. I did remove the stabilizing elastic
> chords, but I found they weren't all that necessary.  *
>
> *3: "NOS" Ultegra 1" threaded headset + brass spacer: $70 + free shipping*
> *I bought this NOS in the box from Analog a while back, mounted it once
> but quickly replaced it...I don't even think it's seen any mileage. some
> slight wear marks on the logo from storage but otherwise in great
> condition. Sorry for the grease pics, I'll clean it all up before shipping
> it. I did one modification, I cut a little notch out of the crown race as
> it was crazy hard to install...doesn't affect performance whatsoever, just
> makes it a little easier to install.  *
>
> *4: Paul Funky Monkey 7/8" Cable Hanger + fancy brass barrel adjuster: $50
> + free shipping *
> *Fits around a quill stem, great condition. Mostly lived it's life on a
> bike that never got ridden.  *
>
>
> *5: SHIMANO XT Cassette CS-M8000 11-speed 11-40 Teeth MTB Mountain Bike
> Cassette: $95 + free shipping*Brand new. I just mounted it on my bike to
> see if it would work...it does not :( Back to the corncob cassette.
>
>
> On Monday, November 1, 2021 at 4:04:23 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> Adding another item:
>>
>>
>> *9: SHIMANO XT Cassette CS-M8000 11-speed 11-40 Teeth MTB Mountain Bike
>> Cassette: $95 + free shipping*Brand new. I just mounted it on my bike to
>> see if it would work...it does not :( Back to the corncob cassette.
>>
>> The tires, low-rider rack + bags, & Nitto plugs are spoken for.
>> Another thing to mention for the bike frame: Everything you see in the
>> pics comes with it, so those VO Noir stainless bottle cages and the 27.0
>> Nitto 65 seatpost.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> On Monday, November 1, 2021 at 11:44:42 AM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Here's the link to all the images. I'll try and stay on top of it and
>>> delete the ones that sell. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyDZAVfj6t6ppzNa8
>>>
>>> *1: FW Evans Frameset: $400 + half shipping *
>>> *This is an English-made frameset made in the late 80s, early 90's with
>>> 531 tubing. Great for touring, commuting, randonneuring, even 'cross. The
>>> frameset sports a fresh  powdercoat, custom decals and brass head badge
>>> made by yours truly. The frame had some modifications done to it by Amigo
>>> Frameworks here in Nashville, including but not limited to some brazeons
>>> for fenders, a pump peg, extra waterbottle cage brazeon, etc. Small but
>>> helpful stuff. There's been some chipping here and there but nothing too
>>> crazy.*
>>>
>>> *F**rame size: (C-C): 63ST, 58TT *
>>> *Steerer has been recently extended for 1" threadless use *
>>>
>>> *Color coordinated NOS Cane Creek 1" headset + bike jerks stem cap I'll
>>> include all the 1" headset spacers I have, carbon and silver alloy.  *
>>> *Also includes the 1" to 1-1/8" shim for modern stems  *
>>> *Max tire size: 35mm slicks. Those bald spots inside the chainstays are
>>> due to the rear QR coming loose and the Bon Jon's rubbing, so it's a very
>>> snug fit. 32-33 is a much much better fit. 38's WILL NOT FIT.   *
>>>
>>>
>>> *2: Tubus Lowrider racks + vintage REI Novara small panniers: $60 + free
>>> shipping**I bought these for the FW Evans but never ended up using
>>> them. Both are clearly worn but I figured if anyone's pannier-curious,
>>> these are a good entry-level option. *
>>>
>>> *3: Ruthworks Black Ultralight Brevet Handlebar Bag: $90 + free
>>> shipping *
>>> *Very lightly used, there is a subtle stain on the inside pocket but
>>> otherwise 

Re: [RBW] Adventure Novels

[Karl Wilcox]

An excellent couple of mountaineering narratives (non-fiction) are Herzog's
'Annapurna' and 'Minus 148: The First Winter Ascent of Mt. Mckinley'.  And,
then, of course, there is the incomparable 'Mawsons Will' (1912 Antarctic
exploration/survival story).  And, also, Ernest Shackleton's amazing
survival story (also Antarctica).

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021 at 7:15 PM J Imler  wrote:

> Recently I noticed the book, *The Long Walk*, in a thread with a holiday
> flyer linked, or an older catalog maybe. I'm enjoying the true story. Years
> ago, I was at Bike, Book, & Hatchet and Grant recommended *In the Heart
> of the Sea* and a book about the Galveston hurricane. And one other I
> just remembered *The Devil in the White City*.
>
> I've enjoyed reading most of these types of books, that involve
> adventure/danger/even death, like *Into Thin Air*.
>
> Would anyone care to share any other novels that you'd recommend as the
> darker months loom?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Pick your brains about spoke count?

[Karl Wilcox]

Improved spokes and rims have made 36 holes or higher wheels obsolete even
for heavier riders (max 200+ pounds or so).  At 210 and 2 meters tall, I
even use 32 wheels for touring with absolutely no problems.  I have been
building my own wheels for 45 years, and I can see no reason to revert back
to 36 holes unless one has a set of hubs and rims in 36 that you just want
to use.

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:17 AM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> Thanks to everyone for the replies. To give more context, the wheels in
> question are the standard Velocity built wheel set (Atlas rims, velocity
> hubs) that used to be a stock wheel option. I don't know if that makes any
> kind of difference. They're old (about 8 years) and lightly used...and
> they're connected to a bike I'm looking at. I don't think it's a deal
> breaker that they're 32, but I do like the idea of 36 better.
>
> Ben
> Omaha
>
> On Monday, October 25, 2021 at 1:05:36 PM UTC-5 George Schick wrote:
>
>> Lately I've noticed that many suppliers aren't offering any 36 hole rims
>> or hubs, as though they're going by the wayside.  A quick check into the
>> Phil Wood website shows they're only offering 36 hole in a few models.  And
>> another check into a major virtual bike shop with "36 hole" as a sort
>> criteria showed only 19 rims available in that count among the nearly 60
>> available in 32 hole.  BTW, when checking both sites I noticed "sold out"
>> for almost everything - scary, I think.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, October 25, 2021 at 12:17:13 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> I would always go with the 36. One reason is that the spokes at the rim
>>> joint cross, so the spoke tension is working to close the rim joint. This
>>> was the reason to go to 44 instead of 40 or 48 many, many years ago, but I
>>> think that 44 is an obsolete spoke count at this point. Rims are so much
>>> better now that it probably does not matter any more. At 280, I have lots
>>> of bikes with 40 and 48 spoke rims. But I don't break spokes on my 32 hole
>>> rims either.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 25, 2021 at 6:39:44 AM UTC-6 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hey all!
 Hypothetically...does an Atlas wheel set with 32 spokes for a 6'3" 210
 pound dude make sense if he's on an unloaded Sam and using it as an
 all-road bike? No singletrack/mountain biking, jumping, etc... Tires would
 be AT LEAST 40mm, possibly up to 44mm.

 OR...is it 36h or bust if you're a big fellow?

 Thanks,
 Ben in Omaha

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Re: [RBW] Adventure Novels

[Karl Wilcox]

'The Long Walk' has been identified as a fictional account by the BBC and
others-- I enjoyed reading it very much, but, in retrospect, learning that
it is largely if not entirely fictional, I have no desire to re-read it.
As a historian, I can assure you that while an oral history can be very
interesting, it is not generally regarded as reliably accurate.  In my
research, diaries or chronicles are highly prized; memoirs not so much.
 'The Long Walk' is probably fabricated (no corroborating voices or
documents).
A good read that was written at the time of the event and has been
corroborated is, 'No Picnic on Mt. Kenya'... a group of Italian
POW's escape their camp in order to climb Mt. Kenya.

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021 at 7:15 PM J Imler  wrote:

> Recently I noticed the book, *The Long Walk*, in a thread with a holiday
> flyer linked, or an older catalog maybe. I'm enjoying the true story. Years
> ago, I was at Bike, Book, & Hatchet and Grant recommended *In the Heart
> of the Sea* and a book about the Galveston hurricane. And one other I
> just remembered *The Devil in the White City*.
>
> I've enjoyed reading most of these types of books, that involve
> adventure/danger/even death, like *Into Thin Air*.
>
> Would anyone care to share any other novels that you'd recommend as the
> darker months loom?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> 
> .
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Re: [RBW] Pick your brains about spoke count?

[Karl Wilcox]

I am 6'6" and 210-- 32 spoke 700c wheels have always been fine for me.
Keep an eye on spoke tension with a new wheel, but otherwise, I have not
been able to discern any difference between 36 and 32 wheels.

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 5:39 AM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> Hey all!
> Hypothetically...does an Atlas wheel set with 32 spokes for a 6'3" 210
> pound dude make sense if he's on an unloaded Sam and using it as an
> all-road bike? No singletrack/mountain biking, jumping, etc... Tires would
> be AT LEAST 40mm, possibly up to 44mm.
>
> OR...is it 36h or bust if you're a big fellow?
>
> Thanks,
> Ben in Omaha
>
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> .
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[RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

[Karl Wilcox]

A Motobecane would be an excellent stand-in for a Roadini (I ride both). 
 There are Motobecanes with Japanese components; I believe the 1981 Le 
Champion came with Shimano 600 and Vitus steel (equivalent to Reynolds 
531).  Actually, any Reynolds 531 frame on Ebay that was built for 27 inch 
wheels will acommodate 700cx32-35 tires.  I got a 1979 Mercian frameset on 
Ebay for 200.00 dollars two years ago-- it was built for 27 inch wheels, so 
I am able to run 32c tires on it easily.  It actually rides better than my 
Roadini (more compliant if a little unsteady at anything above 40 mph). 
 Ebay is still a good place to shop for frames if you purchase frames that 
have horrible paint jobs!  Then just take it to your local powder coat guy. 
 

On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 8:45:29 AM UTC-7 Yankeebird wrote:

> I would like a Roadini, but it's going to be a while, and I'm going 
> through some money constraints right now, and I don't mind fixing up 
> something else in the interim. I have a Cheviot right now, and it's my 
> primary main bike for everything. I also have a Surly CC that I built up 
> with an Alfine IGH 8 and Albatross bars, but I keep that at Mom's so when 
> my bro and I visit we have a bike to bang around on to blow off steam.
>
> I would really like a decent smooth steel frame that will take at least a 
> 32-38 tire, and I can build up either with another IGH/albatross or a 
> cassette and drop bars depending on my whims. Something zippier than my 
> Cheviot but not a straight up triathlon bike. 
>
> I'd like to get my hands on a '86 Schwinn Passage (my brother has this 
> bike and it's an incredible) or an early/mid 80's Trek 720. But these 
> things are going for PREMIUM money, almost ridiculous. I value them as 
> $200-300 bikes, but they are listed at $800+ and it boggles my mind. 
>
> Any other comparable frames to the above two I mentioned that I should be 
> looking at? What about Motobecanes? Do they have standard sizing for 
> components or am I going to be banging my head against the wall finding 
> French sized parts? 
>
> Biking is something I enjoy, and I can do basic bike MX and can learn the 
> stuff I don't know, but I am not deep in the weeds of dorkdom when it comes 
> to bikes. I have other much deeper passions. I probably won't build a 
> wheel, but I can replace a BB. I know what I like and what I want when I 
> see it, if I'm pointed in the correct direction by those who know. Hence 
> this query. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 26.8mm seat post diameter??

[Karl Wilcox]

I decided to replace the 26.8 seat post that came with my Roadini; I
discovered that 'Promax' makes a nice and light and high quality seatpost
in 26.8 (it is 'SP-1' model and it comes in Red, Blue, Gold and Black (no
silver).  It has served very nicely.  I also had trouble with both of my
26.8 seat posts slipping down over time with the Roadini frame.  I ended up
using some carbon paste to solve that problem.  You can also have a
machinist or frame builder put a nice grid pattern into the surface of the
seatpost to keep it in place (Chris Kelly in Nevada City, Ca. has done that
for me with other frames).  At any rate, the Promax seat post is the one to
get in my opinion, and although it is kind of long, it only weighs about 9
ounces (and, of course, it can easily be cut down).
Cheers,
Karl
Weimar, CA.

On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 10:37 AM lconley  wrote:

> Probably voided the warranty, but the Bombadil would have been useless to
> me without the setback seatpost, I have a very long torso. It was on sale
> for $1800 brand new (normally $3000 back then) from Rivendell and was the
> correct 52cm for my legs, so I was going to make it work. Rivendell
> recommended a Hunqapillar for a touring bike for me, but Bombadil on sale
> was less expensive. i really didn't have to hone that much, the seatpost is
> a little less than 27.2 and the bike was a little more than 27.0, so the
> tube thickness removed was less than 1.0 mm.
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 12:24:06 PM UTC-4 Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
>> I agree the lugs used (no matter the design) accept the same OS diameter
>> tubing but Rivendell went with thicker walled tubing. The question is why?
>> To me Grant not wanting to ream out the seat tube could effectively be
>> solved by choosing a thinner walled tubing. I think it's a structural
>> decision as I mentioned before. Laing, I wonder if by reaming out the
>> inside of the seat tube you are voiding the warranty? Probably NBD unless
>> you ride like Manny and need all the extra gussets and tube wall thickness.
>>
>> David, basically my issue boils down to lack of availability which
>> obviously has been exacerbated by the pandemics supply chain disruption.
>> Yet still if I want a 27.2 post NBD.
>>
>> Eric and Laing, I agree with a lugged post in 26.8mm please!
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
>> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 8:45 AM Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:
>>
>>> Laing, your point is exactly my point.  If you use the same lugs you do
>>> not change the OD otherwise the lugs would not work.  If you want to use
>>> the same lugs and want a thicker tube, then it must get thicker on the
>>> inside, so the inner diameter must decrease with a thicker tube.  That's my
>>> understanding of why the seat post is now smaller in diameter.
>>>
>>> Toshi
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 7:54 AM lconley  wrote:
>>>
 Lugs attach to the OD of the tube and have nothing to do with the ID of
 the tube. My second Sam Hillborne, in orange metalflake,  had the same lugs
 as my 1st, but used the 26.8 seatpost.
 Gotta go - the UPS guy is at the door with my Crust Clydesdale fork. I
 am going to call this latest creation Conley's Crustendell Clementine
 Clydesdale Cargo Cycle (but sadly awaiting the Cliffhanger rims till
 December). I love a good alliteration. The black fork even matches the
 black Clementine.

 Laing Conley
 Delray Beach FL

 On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 10:37:40 AM UTC-4 cycli...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> Hi Hugh, I had my little rant about this same issue back on Nov 24th
> last year.  I assumed the change on the Hillbornes was made when they
> changed the style of the seat lug.  The ends of the seat stays on my 2015
> Hillborne (sidepull brakes) where they meet the seat lug are of a 
> different
> style than the current models.  I assumed that was the reason, but I 
> notice
> the Platypus and the Appaloosa use the same style as my Hillborne, but 
> both
> those frame take 26.8mm seatposts.  Seems odd that the wall thickness used
> in the seat tube of the Hillborne would change after 2015, but I guess it
> did, hence the change to 26.8mm seatposts.  Anyhow, I'm with you on this.
> Definitely limits ones options.
>
> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 6:43:25 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I asked Will about this recently and he said something to the effect
>> that Grant didn't want to ream out as much from the seat tube hence 
>> thicker
>> tube and thinner post.
>>
>> I'm with Laing and would like that lugged seatpost in a 26.8, please!
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 8:05:10 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Rivendell switched over to mostly 26.8 seatposts maybe 5-6 years ago
>>> when they started using thicker tubing across 

Re: [RBW] 26.8mm seat post diameter??

[Karl Wilcox]

It is not easy to find high quality alloy seat posts for my 2018 Roadini.
Note that when you purchase a Roadini frameset, it comes with a seat post!
That should tell you something.
Cheers,
Karl

On Mon, Oct 18, 2021 at 7:12 PM Ron Frazelle  wrote:

> Sometimes when it comes to manufacturing, it's just about part number
> rationalization...less part numbers to buy...less tooling costs. I don't
> know if all of the other models are 26.8, but if they are this could be the
> reasoning. It's just a guess though.
>
> On Mon, Oct 18, 2021, 7:01 PM Hugh Smitham  wrote:
>
>> Maybe someone can answer this, why in the heck did Rivendell start making
>> the seat tube inside diameter 26.8mm on the new bikes? I believe hearing
>> something about seat tube wall thickness. Don't get me wrong, I think the
>> new Geos make for a better ride, but it's way easier to find posts in
>> 27.2mm all day long.
>>
>> Rivendell has the Nitto S83 in that diameter but it's a whopping 300 mm
>> length 50 mm more than I need and also a whopping $128 before tax and
>> shipping.
>>
>> Rant over n out.
>>
>> Hugh n LA
>>
>>
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Roadini or Homer

[Karl Wilcox]

The Homer will be 'heavier' or stiffer in terms of feel than the Roadini; I
actually find the Roadini too stiff for my riding style.
Karl

On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 7:38 AM Bones  wrote:

> I know these comparisons have come up frequently, but here is my
> particular situation:
>
> I had a 62 Hillborne. It felt too similar to my Appaloosa, so I got a 61
> Roadini. I've been riding that for a year and a half and I love it. It
> serves the purpose the Hillborne was meant to serve (the Hillborne always
> felt a bit too bulky for my intended purpose... which is primarily riding
> on roads with light loads).
>
> Sometimes I feel like I overshot with the Roadini though, and the Homer
> would be the best choice. I sometimes wish I could put fenders on it,
> without having to go with a smaller tire (currently running Barlows on
> Quills --> ~41mm). I sometimes wish I could add a small front rack without
> using P-clamps.
>
> Being a tall and slender fella, pretty much every Rivendell is overbuilt
> for me for any of their stated purposes. What I am getting at is would I be
> losing anything if I swapped the Roadini for a Homer? Clearly I would gain
> in functionality. I am indifferent with respect to the chainstay lengths. I
> just want to be sure that the bike would have the same lighter feel that I
> experience with the Roadini.
>
> Any insight is much appreciated!
>
> Bones
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Me Your Roadeo!

[Karl Wilcox]

@Tim... I also have a 93 pbh with a 84cm saddle height.  I decided that the
63cm Roadeo was just not large enough.  I do not like elongated stems
(vertical or horizontal).  I got the 2018 Roadini instead.  It fits
perfectly.  My only gripe with the Roadini is that it is too stiff for my
kind of riding (club rides that can be kind of fast).  I prefer more
lateral compliance in my bicycles, and the Roadini is just stiffer all
round than I like.  I will be selling it.  It rides wonderfully, but
compliance is not its cup of tea.  My SOMA San Marcos which is really
identical to the Roadini has more compliance-- perfect for long distance
stuff and gravel.  I will keep the San Marcos.  It seems that Grant
perfected frame design in the Roadini and the San Marcos: long head tubes
and sloping top tubes for us tall riders really improves comfort
immensely.  My old Riv 'Redwood' was a great bike, but the stem was always
too low, and I really do not like the 'stuck up' stem look.

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 5:13 PM Tim Bantham  wrote:

> @Doug H I have the same question about the fork. How did you decide
> between the two? My saddle height is 84.5 cm with a PBH of 93. My bars are
> 1.5 cm's below the saddle. On my Sam the 6 degree top tube slope creates a
> bit more stack height. In comparison the Roadeo has a 2 degree slope. This
> is why I am wondering what the HT size is on the size 63 that Matt has. I
> am trying to decide if I could get my bars high enough with a threadless
> form without having to add to many spacers.
>
> On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 7:59:07 PM UTC-4 Tim Bantham wrote:
>
>> John, You've got two great bikes with the QB and Roadeo. Both are high on
>> my list to own. I mostly agree with your comments about taking the
>> versatility of a Rivendell to far. I have an Appaloosa and a Sam. I had a
>> Clem H and quickly sold it. The Clem was one I regretted and wished I
>> hadn't gone down that path. With the Clem I tried to make it something it
>> was not (at least to my standards) and that was an analog mountain bike. At
>> the time I was caught up in the Rivendell Hillie Bike marketing only to be
>> disappointed later. I found the ride to be heavy, dull and just
>> uninspiring. I also did not get along with the very long chainstays. So in
>> that sense my experience mirrors yours.
>>
>> Like the Atlantis, the Appaloosa is great at what it is meant for.
>> Touring, bike packing, grocery getting both on and off road. I currently
>> have it set up with 2.25 Schwalbe T-Burts tubeless. A very Un-Riv Jones
>> Loop bars along with a White Industries Double. The bike is super stable
>> loaded or unloaded on any surface. I love it for what it is and mostly ride
>> it for those purposes.
>>
>> I have found the Sam to be the most versatile of them all. I've had that
>> bike built up so many different ways, Before I had the Appaloosa I would
>> ride it loaded with camping gear, It had Billie Bars, Albatross bars,
>> Albastache bars and Noodle bars. I also had several different Nitto racks
>> on it front and rear. All versions were great but I have finally settled on
>> a drop bar set up. I ditched the Noodles for a 31.8 clamp so I could use
>> Salsa Cowchippers. I have a Nitto Quill adaptor so I can use a normal clamp
>> on stem. I mostly did that to make it easier to try different stem lengths
>> without spending a fortune. I settled on a 110mm stem. This bike outshines
>> my other Riv's in overall versatility.
>>
>> I think the Sam makes a great road bike. Similar to the very popular "all
>> road" versions from the bigger brands. The Sam is better because it's
>> lugged steel and has far more tire clearance. That said, I wish it was
>> lighter and had more snap. I think the Roadeo would provide that.
>>
>> @Calvin, good for you on taking the plunge. You must be excited!!
>> Although the Roadeo is technically not custom Mark Nobilette is a custom
>> builder and talking to a local one man ship he told me most everyone is one
>> year out. At least you are not having to wait until 2023 like some of the
>> bigger brands out there!
>>
>> @Austin, Beautiful bike! I love the red and white color. Looks like Bon
>> Jon Pass tires so I know it's good for 35's. I'm happy to see that because
>> this is the minimum size RH tire that will set up tubeless.
>>
>> On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 7:29:54 PM UTC-4 Austin B. wrote:
>>
>>> [image: 78447BB8-3CDE-4D78-873B-5A4287F94FEF.jpeg]Here’s my 63cm with a
>>> modern take on components.
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 7:09:05 PM UTC-4 Calvin Yolo wrote:
>>>
 I ended up placing a deposit for the Roadeo instead of waiting for a
 Roadini. 10 month wait. I plan to put Ultegra on it like what's shown 
 above.

 On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 3:46:17 PM UTC-7 John G. wrote:

> I've owned a Hunqapillar and an Atlantis. I currently own a Quickbeam
> and a Roadeo. I sold the Hunq to buy the Atlantis, then I traded the
> Atlantis for the 

[RBW] Rivendell Redwood size 65cm

[Karl Wilcox]

I am looking for a 65cm Rivendell Redwood frameset.  If anyone on the RBW 
list has one to sell or knows of one that might be sold, please let me 
know-- I purchased a new Redwood some years ago, but I got the 68cm, and it 
was too big for me.  I also tried the Roadini, but while the sizing was 
perfect, I found the frame too stiff for my style of riding.
Cheers,
Karl
Weimar, CA.

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