[RBW] Re: Finding fun in un-un-racing

[Philip Kim]

Well said, Jan. I agree. I usually "race" my own times on my commute to and 
from work. Though in the morning it's just called "woke up late again, 
pedal harder to get in on time".

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 6:44:12 PM UTC-4, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> Good job! A career change to mountain bike pro may be in order! Or more 
> likely, it's surprising what a lifetime of cycling will give you in skills.
>
> I think what people mostly are reacting to when they identify as 
> "Un-Racers" are the attitudes of racers (or more often, wannabe racers), 
> rather than the fact that pushing yourself a bit can be fun. When we are 
> returning from a long trip in the mountains with panniers on our bikes, and 
> every "racer" on the (flat) bike trail picks us as a target, passing us, 
> and then slowing down exhausted, it gets tiring. 
>
> But that doesn't mean that riding a performance bike isn't fun, and the 
> better the bike performs, the more fun it can be. In fact, I sometimes give 
> in to the temptation and up the pace myself, drop the wannabe racers, and 
> then keep up the pace, if only to get home sooner. Feeling the bike in sync 
> with my pedal strokes and my entire body working hard is fun.
>
> The true high-level racers I've known are usually very pleasant. They 
> don't need to prove to everybody how fast they are – if you want to race, 
> line up at the start line! It's the non-racers who treat every commute as a 
> competition, and every guy (or even better, woman) on a heavily loaded bike 
> as an opportunity.
>
> It's easy to confound "anti-attitude" with "anti-performance", but I think 
> that is a mistake. Cycling is fun in part because of its speed. Otherwise, 
> we could be walking. That doesn't mean that we should prioritize speed over 
> everything else – comfort and fun are more important. But when the gains 
> come without penalties, such as wide supple tires – faster, more 
> comfortable and more puncture-resistant – or frames that get in sync with 
> your pedal strokes ("planing") – lighter, more fun at any power output – 
> then it makes sense to embrace them.
>
> Fortunately, the image of a "performance bike" is changing. No longer is 
> it a harsh-riding machine with skinny tires pumped to 100 psi or more. With 
> the new "Gravel" and "Allroad" bikes, the industry finally is espousing 
> what this group has been about all along.
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
> www.bikequarterly.com
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Philip Kim]

Jon, although it has the reinforced struts to the bottom of the fork leg, i 
would still watch the amount of stuff you put on it, since it's only 
connected to the fork crown with a tange, so it's not laterally reinforced. 
The rack was designed with small rando bags in mind.

On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 7:42:44 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> According to V-O's site they come pre-drilled now.  Yeah, I don't want to 
> try to drill steel. :D   It comes with the daruma as well, so if I need it, 
> it's there.
>
> BTW - Sam's brake bolt comes in through the back of the crown rather than 
> bolting through the front - it's an odd bolt.  I wonder if the daruma will 
> work on it.  Guess I'll find out!
>
> On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 7:32:27 AM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>>
>> The vo constructeur will work fine, but I'm not sure it fits your plug n 
>> play requirements. You may need to cut the bottom mounts, bend the tang (if 
>> you want it thru the brake bolt), or use a daruma (if you don't).
>>
>> That being said it's a cool rack that fulfills a unique gap in front 
>> racks. Lightish, steel, much sturdier than a mini but not delving into 
>> heavy duty touring/pannier capability. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Hunqapillar FINALLY!

[Philip Kim]

Yep it's the original grey. It changes with the lighting as it's got a 
bluish tint to it! Maybe the cream also makes it appear light too!

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 11:19:21 AM UTC-4, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> Congrats and that's a gorgeous bike!!!  Very close to how I would outfit 
> one if I had the funds to indulge in some really nice components.  
>
> Are you saying that's the original grey?  I thought it was a completely 
> different color because it looks much lighter.  Maybe it's the lighting in 
> your camera or maybe it's just the contrast difference between grey/cream 
> and grey/burgundy-orange.  
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 8:42:50 AM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> Picked up my Hunq from Gravel & Grind (helped me put together the build) 
>> on Saturday and finally got around to riding it this morning. Here are some 
>> pictures before my morning commute from DC into Arlington.
>>
>> This is a 48cm Hunqapillar, with mostly 10 speed XT parts except the SLX 
>> rear derailleur, and White Industries crankset. Also Pauls canti's and 
>> levers, Brooks Swift, and Nitto Seatpost.
>>
>> Of unusual to note, I fitted this out with a Jones loop bar. I had 
>> Clockwork Bikes make me a custom 31.8 quill stem. It's bare steel right 
>> now, but I'll probably nickel plate it somewhere down the road. Wheels are 
>> Compass Rat Traps set up tubeless on Atlas rims. Using the Riv's silver hub 
>> rear, and the Shutter precision hub front. Built up by Gravel & Grind.
>>
>> Got the Carradice bag from Gravel & Grind, fits all my work clothes, work 
>> laptop, lunch, with room to spare. Strapped to my handlebar method - via 
>> Ultraromance-style, and also seen on Mark Reimer's Atlantis. I really like 
>> this set up, allows more cargo than a basket, and things don't fly around.
>>
>> Can't recommend the guys at Gravel & Grind enough. Very chill, very 
>> flexible, and very rad.
>>
>> This bike rides soo awesome! I can really push it, but it's very 
>> comfortable and stable. I was also surprised how light it feels considering 
>> it's a stout frame. So stoked for many many years on this thing!
>>
>> Thanks to all those I've privately messaged and all those who answered my 
>> questions and all that. It really helped a lot.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ug2HnvOfM50/V2fxkOdP-nI/BHg/aaBL6jy4X7ES7xjaG4BFeweFoVFL7Vn9gCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083954.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XWU7Dpf3jD4/V2fxliL7B3I/BHo/6uRpzBGkLN8-AkkB_pV7jY4rlDlFr1GbACLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083945.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fyBH9EE5ZdA/V2fxmzpKqUI/BHw/wtMWqtxLwZgfrR52F_EkoI1txdd_du-QwCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_084111.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-au_AYxxY8Bo/V2fxoaBp-EI/BH4/V-ozxNzVX-Iuh8Z6UWsOOsjQ7RmPuYf7QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_084118.jpg>
>>
>> I've been thinking of getting a Hunq for awhile now back when it was the 
>> awesome grey and red color, so I got it colored in the old grey, but cream 
>> accents to match the new Hunqapillar decals.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_FxneNSaWpI/V2fxN0ZmvCI/BHI/5eNIDh-lh94KCI15fjqno_90Sv7H-Fx5QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083924.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--NuFoxijWi4/V2fxQtXbsAI/BHQ/yLfYsqWH5hAmaNMNWkuOu9iTIZVg7f3CgCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083930.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OivuCnxPoDg/V2fxSWa1uqI/BHY/qERJLtzEH5QEhUPwFXLUephb0ViLmXX2QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083938.jpg>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Hunqapillar FINALLY!

[Philip Kim]

Thanks!. I'm a smaller rider 5'6" 150lb. I tried the B17 brooks on my 
upright Cheviot, and could not get along with it. the Swift is just right 
for me. I used to ride the Swift throughout college on an upright fixie, so 
I've never really had any problems. If it starts being uncomfortable, I 
still have the B17 on hand!

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 11:25:01 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> That is one righteous ride! I am totally I n board with what you've done. 
> I think my onky concern would be the Swift saddle,  seems a bit narrow for 
> a semi upright build?
> I was loving the Joe Appaloosa,  but seeing as I am a largish guy I have 
> been thinking that a Hunqapillar is probably the way to go! You haven't 
> helped steel my resolve not to get one! 

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Hunqapillar FINALLY!

[Philip Kim]

Of course, let me know anytime! I'm usually in Ballston for work during the 
week!

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 10:25:31 AM UTC-4, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>
> Congrats on your new Hunq!  Love the color and setup especially the Jones 
> bars.  I've been meaning to get up to Gravel and Grind to check it out, 
> seems like a great shop.
>
> Would be nice to see it in person sometime.
>
> Ryan
> Arlington, VA
>
> On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 9:42:50 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
>> Picked up my Hunq from Gravel & Grind (helped me put together the build) 
>> on Saturday and finally got around to riding it this morning. Here are some 
>> pictures before my morning commute from DC into Arlington.
>>
>> This is a 48cm Hunqapillar, with mostly 10 speed XT parts except the SLX 
>> rear derailleur, and White Industries crankset. Also Pauls canti's and 
>> levers, Brooks Swift, and Nitto Seatpost.
>>
>> Of unusual to note, I fitted this out with a Jones loop bar. I had 
>> Clockwork Bikes make me a custom 31.8 quill stem. It's bare steel right 
>> now, but I'll probably nickel plate it somewhere down the road. Wheels are 
>> Compass Rat Traps set up tubeless on Atlas rims. Using the Riv's silver hub 
>> rear, and the Shutter precision hub front. Built up by Gravel & Grind.
>>
>> Got the Carradice bag from Gravel & Grind, fits all my work clothes, work 
>> laptop, lunch, with room to spare. Strapped to my handlebar method - via 
>> Ultraromance-style, and also seen on Mark Reimer's Atlantis. I really like 
>> this set up, allows more cargo than a basket, and things don't fly around.
>>
>> Can't recommend the guys at Gravel & Grind enough. Very chill, very 
>> flexible, and very rad.
>>
>> This bike rides soo awesome! I can really push it, but it's very 
>> comfortable and stable. I was also surprised how light it feels considering 
>> it's a stout frame. So stoked for many many years on this thing!
>>
>> Thanks to all those I've privately messaged and all those who answered my 
>> questions and all that. It really helped a lot.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ug2HnvOfM50/V2fxkOdP-nI/BHg/aaBL6jy4X7ES7xjaG4BFeweFoVFL7Vn9gCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083954.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XWU7Dpf3jD4/V2fxliL7B3I/BHo/6uRpzBGkLN8-AkkB_pV7jY4rlDlFr1GbACLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083945.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fyBH9EE5ZdA/V2fxmzpKqUI/BHw/wtMWqtxLwZgfrR52F_EkoI1txdd_du-QwCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_084111.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-au_AYxxY8Bo/V2fxoaBp-EI/BH4/V-ozxNzVX-Iuh8Z6UWsOOsjQ7RmPuYf7QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_084118.jpg>
>>
>> I've been thinking of getting a Hunq for awhile now back when it was the 
>> awesome grey and red color, so I got it colored in the old grey, but cream 
>> accents to match the new Hunqapillar decals.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_FxneNSaWpI/V2fxN0ZmvCI/BHI/5eNIDh-lh94KCI15fjqno_90Sv7H-Fx5QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083924.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--NuFoxijWi4/V2fxQtXbsAI/BHQ/yLfYsqWH5hAmaNMNWkuOu9iTIZVg7f3CgCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083930.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OivuCnxPoDg/V2fxSWa1uqI/BHY/qERJLtzEH5QEhUPwFXLUephb0ViLmXX2QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083938.jpg>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Hunqapillar FINALLY!

[Philip Kim]

These are Compass Rat Traps 26x55. They are very nice ride so far. Nice and 
wide, but very awesome ride.

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 10:31:26 AM UTC-4, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:
>
> What brand and size on the tires?
>
> On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 9:42:50 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> Picked up my Hunq from Gravel & Grind (helped me put together the build) 
>> on Saturday and finally got around to riding it this morning. Here are some 
>> pictures before my morning commute from DC into Arlington.
>>
>> This is a 48cm Hunqapillar, with mostly 10 speed XT parts except the SLX 
>> rear derailleur, and White Industries crankset. Also Pauls canti's and 
>> levers, Brooks Swift, and Nitto Seatpost.
>>
>> Of unusual to note, I fitted this out with a Jones loop bar. I had 
>> Clockwork Bikes make me a custom 31.8 quill stem. It's bare steel right 
>> now, but I'll probably nickel plate it somewhere down the road. Wheels are 
>> Compass Rat Traps set up tubeless on Atlas rims. Using the Riv's silver hub 
>> rear, and the Shutter precision hub front. Built up by Gravel & Grind.
>>
>> Got the Carradice bag from Gravel & Grind, fits all my work clothes, work 
>> laptop, lunch, with room to spare. Strapped to my handlebar method - via 
>> Ultraromance-style, and also seen on Mark Reimer's Atlantis. I really like 
>> this set up, allows more cargo than a basket, and things don't fly around.
>>
>> Can't recommend the guys at Gravel & Grind enough. Very chill, very 
>> flexible, and very rad.
>>
>> This bike rides soo awesome! I can really push it, but it's very 
>> comfortable and stable. I was also surprised how light it feels considering 
>> it's a stout frame. So stoked for many many years on this thing!
>>
>> Thanks to all those I've privately messaged and all those who answered my 
>> questions and all that. It really helped a lot.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ug2HnvOfM50/V2fxkOdP-nI/BHg/aaBL6jy4X7ES7xjaG4BFeweFoVFL7Vn9gCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083954.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XWU7Dpf3jD4/V2fxliL7B3I/BHo/6uRpzBGkLN8-AkkB_pV7jY4rlDlFr1GbACLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083945.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fyBH9EE5ZdA/V2fxmzpKqUI/BHw/wtMWqtxLwZgfrR52F_EkoI1txdd_du-QwCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_084111.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-au_AYxxY8Bo/V2fxoaBp-EI/BH4/V-ozxNzVX-Iuh8Z6UWsOOsjQ7RmPuYf7QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_084118.jpg>
>>
>> I've been thinking of getting a Hunq for awhile now back when it was the 
>> awesome grey and red color, so I got it colored in the old grey, but cream 
>> accents to match the new Hunqapillar decals.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_FxneNSaWpI/V2fxN0ZmvCI/BHI/5eNIDh-lh94KCI15fjqno_90Sv7H-Fx5QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083924.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--NuFoxijWi4/V2fxQtXbsAI/BHQ/yLfYsqWH5hAmaNMNWkuOu9iTIZVg7f3CgCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083930.jpg>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OivuCnxPoDg/V2fxSWa1uqI/BHY/qERJLtzEH5QEhUPwFXLUephb0ViLmXX2QCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160620_083938.jpg>
>>
>>

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[RBW] New Bike Day - Hunqapillar FINALLY!

[Philip Kim]

Picked up my Hunq from Gravel & Grind (helped me put together the build) on 
Saturday and finally got around to riding it this morning. Here are some 
pictures before my morning commute from DC into Arlington.

This is a 48cm Hunqapillar, with mostly 10 speed XT parts except the SLX 
rear derailleur, and White Industries crankset. Also Pauls canti's and 
levers, Brooks Swift, and Nitto Seatpost.

Of unusual to note, I fitted this out with a Jones loop bar. I had 
Clockwork Bikes make me a custom 31.8 quill stem. It's bare steel right 
now, but I'll probably nickel plate it somewhere down the road. Wheels are 
Compass Rat Traps set up tubeless on Atlas rims. Using the Riv's silver hub 
rear, and the Shutter precision hub front. Built up by Gravel & Grind.

Got the Carradice bag from Gravel & Grind, fits all my work clothes, work 
laptop, lunch, with room to spare. Strapped to my handlebar method - via 
Ultraromance-style, and also seen on Mark Reimer's Atlantis. I really like 
this set up, allows more cargo than a basket, and things don't fly around.

Can't recommend the guys at Gravel & Grind enough. Very chill, very 
flexible, and very rad.

This bike rides soo awesome! I can really push it, but it's very 
comfortable and stable. I was also surprised how light it feels considering 
it's a stout frame. So stoked for many many years on this thing!

Thanks to all those I've privately messaged and all those who answered my 
questions and all that. It really helped a lot.










I've been thinking of getting a Hunq for awhile now back when it was the 
awesome grey and red color, so I got it colored in the old grey, but cream 
accents to match the new Hunqapillar decals.








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[RBW] WTT: Ti Brooks B17 for Ti Brooks Swift

[Philip Kim]

Got this Ti B17 from a fellow Bob in DC. Thought I'd try it out but used a 
swift on another bike and it fits my sit bones better. So if anyone wants to 
trade please message me for pictures etc.

Saddle is in great condition.

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Philip Kim]

Jon, congrats! 

The reason Nitto is well regarded is because the quality is really high, 
which matters the more times you ride your bike with more things. I believe 
all Nitto racks are still brazed by the same woman in Japan for the past 
decade or maybe even two. I know you bought two Riv's which is a lot of 
money so I can understand your apprehension at a more expensive rack.

Any good rack that won't fail in a couple of years will be $70-200 
depending on how much you want to carry. So to have a specific size, price 
range, and intended use is helpful for us to give suggestions so we're not 
all aiming in the dark and can better help you.

A reason Howard suggest posting a WTB is because a lot of us are bike 
tinkerers and have parts/accessories that are sitting around that we would 
gladly see being used. So you can usually get racks and parts cheaper this 
way, and most of the stuff is in good to great condition. So whenever or if 
ever the time comes for you to buy a front rack, then it will be helpful to 
post to this list. If you don't have a set idea, then being specific in 
your intended use, etc. always helps. A lot of knowledgeable people on 
here, and will go the extra mile to make measurements, take pictures, etc.

All things considered - Soma has a couple of front racks that are cheaper 
that might work, mainly their Alloy front rack is around $35, but their 
shipping can be outrageous. Another option would be to get a Wald front 
basket set up ($25ish). This will connect to your handlebars and have legs 
that connect to your fork dropouts. I highly recommend against the wald 
basket, unless you attach it to a front rack. I had the Basket set up, and 
the screws vibrated loose within a week. A Tara Tubus Duo Lowrider rack is 
a little over $50, which might be your best option though you might need to 
use P-Clamps. Another option would be to try to find a cheap rear rack that 
you can jerry rig to use as a front rack. Not a lot of options if you're 
trying to stay below $100.

Surly front racks (Surly Nice Rack, 24 pack rack, etc.)  as well as Minoura 
Gamoh front racks. Velo Orange also has a Constructeur front rack that I've 
also used with great success (these are all in the $100 and over range).

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 8:46:12 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
>
> 
>
> So, last Saturday I finally bought a Sam (55, blue, noodle)!  (BTW A1 
> Cyclery in Indianapolis rocks!)  (And truth be told, I'm now a 2-Sam 
> household as on Wednesday we went back and my wife got one too - 51, 
> orange, noodle. :D )
>
> Anyway - I had an old Trek rear rack so I black-nailpolished the Trek 
> logos and put it on - it fits great!   
>
> A front rack I do not have, and I'm wondering what ones fit well on Sam 
> without a lot of bodging.  NIttos, yeah, they're gorgeous, but they're also 
> bordering on blasphemously expensive so I'm looking for lower cost options.
>
> Since someone will demand it, I've attached a pic of my Sam sitting in my 
> office as I type this.
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Philip Kim]

The reason Nitto is well regarded is because the quality is really 
unmatched IMO anywhere on the market, which matters the more times you ride 
your bike with more things. I believe all Nitto racks are still brazed by 
the same woman in Japan for the past decade or maybe even two. Also made 
out of steel, so are stronger than some of the cheaper ones made of 
aluminum. I used to avoid Nitto racks because of the expense, but after two 
racks I bought from REI failed on me with regular commuting loads, I 
decided to pony up and get Nitto Marks rack. This rack is smaller and 
lighter and carries the same amount of loads, and I haven't even had a 
strut wiggle since I got it a couple of years ago.

It might be more helpful if you gave a price range, and what type of things 
you are trying to carry. Size and weight helps.

All things considered - Soma has a couple of front racks that are cheaper 
that might work, mainly their Alloy front rack their Porteur and maybe 
their Elysee Champ front rack. I would also look into the Surly front racks 
(Surly Nice Rack, 24 pack rack, etc.)  as well as Minoura Gamoh front 
racks. Velo Orange also has a Constructeur front rack that I've also used 
with great success.

If you want the option of front panniers, you'll have to spend more.

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:25:09 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> Nittos are just way, way, way too expensive.
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:12:19 AM UTC-4, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>>
>> I have a Cheviot, which has the same brake setup as your Sam, and use 
>> Mark's Nitto Rack with a Wald basket.  Can't go wrong as the rack was 
>> specifically developed for Rivendell's with caliper brakes.
>>
>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r1.htm
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Hunq 650b

[Philip Kim]

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2gKnxn5bPhQ/V2FWfLv8r4I/BGQ/jny3SQl60MwFy6MkrSJzBIJL7Ec6iTLtgCLcB/s1600/Capture.PNG>


For reference, here is a 54cm.

On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:05:15 AM UTC-4, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> Chainstays don't look any longer, which I thought was also coming on the 
> Hunqs.  I hope RBW didn't size me out of the 650B Hunqs because I would 
> prefer that over the 700c version.  53cm is definately too small and the 
> old Hunq had pretty big jumps between sizes.  
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 7:42:06 AM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>>
>> Looks like Riv got in at least one 650b Hunqapillar (screen shot from 
>> their instagram)
>>
>> Link! <https://www.instagram.com/p/BGqD37BLxD-/>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oZYdw7p8svk/V2FM77dT1nI/BFw/-SNuO36LU58ZG3XNpA1wNogKa8iftp8ywCLcB/s1600/Capture.PNG>
>>
>>

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[RBW] New Hunq 650b

[Philip Kim]

Looks like Riv got in at least one 650b Hunqapillar (screen shot from their 
instagram)

Link! 



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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Philip Kim]

Ahearne MAP bars are awesome.

Jones bars are probably favorite off-road bars, and slowly creeping on my 
favorite pavement bars.

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 8:36:35 AM UTC-4, kielsun wrote:
>
> I hesitated posting this here, but it's definitely a Riv-inspired 
> conundrum. I'm building up a late 80s Rockhopper and having trouble finding 
> the right handlebar setup. It will primarily be a trail and off-road 
> camping bike with knobbies. I have my Sam for road riding and don't want 
> much overlap between the two.
>
> The frame is borderline too small for me. It's an 18" and I would probably 
> benefit from a 19-19.5", but it should work fine once it's dialed, and it's 
> also just a stop-gap until I can save up for a Surly Troll frameset or 
> something similar. 
>
> Riv Content: I want it to be comfortable (but still nimble)--bars at 
> saddle height!
>
> I've considered going with a standard Technomic and Albas, dirt drop with 
> straight-ish/mountain riser bars like the Soma Clarence, or even trying a 
> threadless conversion stem with drop-style bars. I have cockpit parts for 
> any setup: MTB levers and Deore thumb shifters and aero levers and Ultegra 
> bar-ends. 
>
> I've already tried a dirt drop stem with moustache bars. This created too 
> much reach because of the bar profile and the non-relaxed geometry of the 
> bike. Anything that I should consider that I'm missing?
>
> I welcome any and all advice based on previous builds or experience. I'm 
> pretty new at working on bikes, so you won't offend me with newbie advice. 
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Bob
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on Cambium?

[Philip Kim]

Yep the rails are longer. I liked the C17 saddle - I think it is good for 
general riding/commuting. The furthest I've ridden was 40 miles with it. 
Still pretty comfortable. Also nice not having to worry about riding in the 
rain. I went back to my all time favorite Brooks Swift though.

On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 11:45:35 AM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I know there was a flurry of reviews when these first hit the market, but 
> I'm curious how folks are getting along with them now that time/miles have 
> passed. The only saddle I can ride more than 15 miles is the Brooks B17, 
> and I'm thinking of trying the Cambium C17 when my mustard CLEM comes in. 
>
> Also, are the rails longer? The rails on my new-to-me ti B17 are longer 
> than the steel ones..I'm wondering of they made that change on the Cambiums.
>
> Thanks, 
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo, CA.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Share Hunq Build / pics and ideas?

[Philip Kim]

nice! i was so tempted by albatross. I had them on my Sam, but kept 
slipping forward to the bends with a 110mm stem. On the Cheviot it was much 
better.

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 2:19:11 PM UTC-4, Esteban wrote:
>
> Here's my slow build on my 54cm Hunqua:
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/26976394523/in/dateposted-public/
>
> Gonna be:
> Nitto shiny bits (Albatross, Frog, 120mm delux stem)
> 2x10 XT drivetrain
> Berthoud saddle
> Nanoraptors (Fatlantis ally)
> Ribbit brakes currently - soon to be black Paul Neo Retro cantis
> Full Nitto rack accompaniment: front and back Campee lowriders, Campee 
> front "mini")
> Hobo-style mismatched, kitchen-sink bags and cargo net action
>
> Esteban
> San Diego, Calif.
>
> On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 7:31:23 AM UTC-7, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> My Hunq has arrived and the bike shop will start my build shortly. So far 
>> it my build will be:
>>
>> Brooks Swift, Nitto Seatpost
>> Paul cantis (retro front, touring rear)
>> Haulin Colin Front Rack
>> Marks rack for rear
>> Atlass 26" wheelset, dyno front
>> Compass Rat Traps tubeless
>> 10 speed, SLX/XT mix, 11-34 cassette
>> White Industries VBC crank
>>
>> I'm having trouble deciding on the cockpit.
>>
>> I've very torn between having Salsa Cowbells or Jones Loop bar on there. 
>> Would a drop bars even make sense on a Hunq? If Jones Loop bar, I would get 
>> Microshift MTB thumbies, and Paul Levers. But if it's Salsa, I might try to 
>> go the Gevenalle/IRD style shifting.
>>
>> I was wondering if Hunq owners can share their favorite Hunq build/pics 
>> for inspiration. I've been looking at Flickr, but I know not everyone 
>> uploads pictures there.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Share Hunq Build / pics and ideas?

[Philip Kim]

Is this a 48cm? Thanks for the pics. I see you've done a lot of handlebar 
combos, definitely cool to see and ponder my own build.

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 11:40:01 AM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Hi Philip,
> If the top-tube length is fine, you can certainly use drops. I had Noodles 
> on my Hunqapillar-- love that set up (Wald basket in the space between on 
> top of Nitto front rack, secured with zipties, natch).
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/13434974393/in/album-72157634163491121/
>
> Here's one from The Radavist (might have to click thru the pics to see the 
> full view):
> http://theradavist.com/2014/05/allans-hunqapillar-dirt-tourer/#1
>
> Enjoy the ride!
> shoji
>
>
>
> On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 11:14:31 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the pics, I've definitely admired that Hunq.
>>
>> Oh yeah, the Gravel and Grind dudes are the guys setting up my Hunq. I 
>> gave them my Jones bar set up, but after seeing James' set up I've been 
>> thinking drops might be doable. But he has a nitto dirt drop stem and dirt 
>> drop bars up high. I was thinking more of a roadie drop bar configuration 
>> with the Salsa Cowbells. I've tried dirt drops and I can't get along with 
>> them for some reason.
>>
>> I just wasn't sure if the geo of the Hunq would mesh with drop bars. I 
>> might just go with the Jones, but might change it later in the summer. But 
>> pics are always still welcome.
>>
>> I have a custom 31.8 custom quill stem.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 10:58:25 AM UTC-4, John G wrote:
>>>
>>> Here is another shot of the dirt drop Hunq, showing (I think) the IRD 
>>> equivalent of the genavale levers/controls.
>>>
>>> https://flic.kr/p/GPZdnQ
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Share Hunq Build / pics and ideas?

[Philip Kim]

Thanks for the pics, I've definitely admired that Hunq.

Oh yeah, the Gravel and Grind dudes are the guys setting up my Hunq. I gave 
them my Jones bar set up, but after seeing James' set up I've been thinking 
drops might be doable. But he has a nitto dirt drop stem and dirt drop bars 
up high. I was thinking more of a roadie drop bar configuration with the 
Salsa Cowbells. I've tried dirt drops and I can't get along with them for 
some reason.

I just wasn't sure if the geo of the Hunq would mesh with drop bars. I 
might just go with the Jones, but might change it later in the summer. But 
pics are always still welcome.

I have a custom 31.8 custom quill stem.



On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 10:58:25 AM UTC-4, John G wrote:
>
> Here is another shot of the dirt drop Hunq, showing (I think) the IRD 
> equivalent of the genavale levers/controls.
>
> https://flic.kr/p/GPZdnQ
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Share Hunq Build / pics and ideas?

[Philip Kim]

I had a custom quill stem made by Clockwork Bikes, great stuff.

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 10:43:38 AM UTC-4, se...@austin.utexas.edu 
wrote:
>
> Just curious, how are you going to accommodate for the 31.8 clamp diameter 
> (of both the cowbells and Jones bars) with a quill stem? If it's possible, 
> I say Jones Loop all the way.
>
> Sean
> ATX
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Share Hunq Build / pics and ideas?

[Philip Kim]

Thats mine!

On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 10:42:27 AM UTC-4, John G wrote:
>
> Here is a photo my friend Jay took of a couple of Hunqs with different set 
> ups.. The bike on the right runs some type of dirt drop.
>
> https://flic.kr/p/HyyYyE
>
> I also was just in Gravel & Grind yesterday and saw a Hunq they are 
> setting up with a Jones stem and Bar, and it looked great.
>
>
> On Friday, June 10, 2016 at 10:31:23 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> My Hunq has arrived and the bike shop will start my build shortly. So far 
>> it my build will be:
>>
>> Brooks Swift, Nitto Seatpost
>> Paul cantis (retro front, touring rear)
>> Haulin Colin Front Rack
>> Marks rack for rear
>> Atlass 26" wheelset, dyno front
>> Compass Rat Traps tubeless
>> 10 speed, SLX/XT mix, 11-34 cassette
>> White Industries VBC crank
>>
>> I'm having trouble deciding on the cockpit.
>>
>> I've very torn between having Salsa Cowbells or Jones Loop bar on there. 
>> Would a drop bars even make sense on a Hunq? If Jones Loop bar, I would get 
>> Microshift MTB thumbies, and Paul Levers. But if it's Salsa, I might try to 
>> go the Gevenalle/IRD style shifting.
>>
>> I was wondering if Hunq owners can share their favorite Hunq build/pics 
>> for inspiration. I've been looking at Flickr, but I know not everyone 
>> uploads pictures there.
>>
>

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[RBW] Share Hunq Build / pics and ideas?

[Philip Kim]

My Hunq has arrived and the bike shop will start my build shortly. So far 
it my build will be:

Brooks Swift, Nitto Seatpost
Paul cantis (retro front, touring rear)
Haulin Colin Front Rack
Marks rack for rear
Atlass 26" wheelset, dyno front
Compass Rat Traps tubeless
10 speed, SLX/XT mix, 11-34 cassette
White Industries VBC crank

I'm having trouble deciding on the cockpit.

I've very torn between having Salsa Cowbells or Jones Loop bar on there. 
Would a drop bars even make sense on a Hunq? If Jones Loop bar, I would get 
Microshift MTB thumbies, and Paul Levers. But if it's Salsa, I might try to 
go the Gevenalle/IRD style shifting.

I was wondering if Hunq owners can share their favorite Hunq build/pics for 
inspiration. I've been looking at Flickr, but I know not everyone uploads 
pictures there.

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[RBW] Re: Plastic fenders - never again

[Philip Kim]

Agreed. I also found the stays seem a bit flimsy holding the weight of the 
plastic fenders. Doesn't really seem to hook up strong like the wrap around 
fender stays of aluminum. I've had the VO alum fenders, and went to SKS for 
a few bikes, but my next set of fenders, I'm going back to VO Fenders.

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 6:22:49 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not the world's best bike mechanic, but neither am I a novice.  The 
> first pair of plastic fenders I worked with were Bluemels, from the late 
> 70's.  Around the turn of the millennium I first installed a pair of SKS 
> fenders.  It seemed pretty straight forward and simple.  You attached them 
> to the brake bolt and drop outs, threaded the stays through a metal hole, 
> and tightened a nut.  You could trim the stays if you wanted to or just put 
> a little plastic cap over the end.  Finally you fussed with the alignment. 
>  You were done, until they came out of alignment.  I migrated to metal 
> fenders.  They are just a bit more challenging, I needed to be more careful 
> in getting them aligned, but once that was done, they would stay put for 
> years.
>
> Two years ago I bought a pair of the cream "longboys" to replace a broken 
> eight year old Honjo on my Ram.  At that time I discovered that SKS had 
> decided to make one small change and complicated installation immensely. 
>  The little plastic cap that fit over the end of the stay has been replaced 
> with an integrated plastic anchor.  Presumably these will keep the cap on 
> the stay, but they also require threading the stay while holding the screw 
> and bolt in place.  They also limit how far the stay can go past the bolt, 
> so that the stay must be cut before you get a good look at how long you 
> want them to be.  All together annoying. 
>
> Anyway, it turned out I didn't like the cream against the Ram blue, so I 
> replaced them with VO aluminum.  Yesterday I put those SKS fenders on my 
> daughters new Chevy-ut.  What a PIA.  The third time one or more of the 
> little stay bolts popped out all over the floor while I was trying to mate 
> up its sister I swore I would never work on plastic fenders again.  Then, 
> with the stays perhaps a few mm too long I struggled for a long time trying 
> simultaneously to line up the arch and remove a persistent twist.
>
> Give me a good metal fender any day.  They just require care, not three 
> hands and a box full of ambidextrous luck.
>
> BTW, just bar tape & kickstand to go on the Cheviut.  Hopefully pictures, 
> later today.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Do you switch from drop bike to Bosco/Alba bike on the fly?

[Philip Kim]

The Soma highwy1 and noodles are my favorite drops. I used to run drops, 
but tried albatross this past year, I love them. I also then tried the 
Jones Loop bar, and I love riding these bars too. 

I've been trying to make the jump back to drops for longer rides, but very 
hard to give up the comfort of albas and jones loop. 

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 5:36:11 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Thinking of getting Boscos for my Sam to ride when I ride with my wife. It 
> has drops now.
>
> I ride drops on my Bleriot and Sam and I do some centuries every year.
>
> But doing this will make me minus an extra drop bike in the event I need 
> one for a century, brevet, etc., at the last minute in case my Bleriot has 
> a mechanical and I need another drop bar bike asap.
>
> Can one just hop on an upright bike and do a century after only training 
> on a drop bar bike? Will the new position use different muscles enough to 
> make it not wise to do?
>
> Have you done this and how is it?
>

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[RBW] Re: Wald Basket??

[Philip Kim]

Same. I've used zipties for years and lugged all my groceries two and from. 
Anywhere around 20-30 pounds. No problems. I believe the same zipties have 
been on there for two years now. I use a clear kind that is very thick and 
long. I mount them the way Rivendell suggests with the double 8 figure 
style looping.

I don't see what the fuss is. If you maintain your bike, it takes just a 
few seconds to look over your zipties, and if they feel weak or you see the 
plastic thinning out, then just cut them and put on a new set. Takes less 
than 5 minutes.

If you want to spend the time and money on copper/ss wiring, all the more 
power to you.

I can't find it anymore, but I remember a lister posted his wald basket 
modification so he could sort of "clip in" the basket and take it off the 
rack whenever he pleased. Now that, I would take the time to make.

On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 4:46:24 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Zipties are freaking awesome.  I'll stop using zipties when I stop 
> appreciating all inexpensive, elegant, reliable, ingenious inventions.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 6:57:43 AM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>> Right, I think the standard Riv setup is to use zip ties, which they 
>> recommend on their website (and which I firmly disagree with).
>> I've attached Wald baskets using SS wire. This takes more time than zip 
>> ties, but is infinitely more reliable (still, good ol' nuts and bolts are 
>> best).
>>
>> Anton
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 12:12:11 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>>>
>>> I think the difference between Walds normal baskets & Rivendells is the 
>>> Riv baskets look like they dont have the hangers or struts. 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Philip Kim]

Looks like a compression bag from Sea to Summit 
(http://www.seatosummit.com/stuff-compression-sacks/), and just tied to the 
saddle and resting on a carradice QR support.

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:44:12 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I can't say too much or praise too highly the Furious Fred, if you can run 
> it tubeless. Fast on pavement, too! Mine measure 51 mm on a 30 mm rim.
>
> On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 8:39 AM, Mark Reimer  > wrote:
>
>> Nice!! Those rat trap pass tires? Man the 26" Atlantis' look so good. 
>> Wish There were 50mm wide Compass tires in 700C. Common Jan... please?
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:38 AM, Jayme Frye > > wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joined the FATlantis movement.
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> On Saturday, April 2, 2016 at 3:38:41 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Since I'm using my Appaloosa as my camping bike, my Atlantis got kind 
 of demoted to the humiliating state of "really heavy road bike".  That's 
 not good enough, so I pulled her fenders, and re-shod her with some 
 29x2.0" 
 knobbies.  Please don't hate me that the sidewalls say "Cannondale" on 
 them.  They are hand-me-downs from my Mountain Bike Racing Team.  Now the 
 Atlantis is looking stripped down, bad-ass, and butch.  If you wanted a 
 nice steel rim-brake monstercross bike, this would not be a bad way to do 
 it.  It should be fun for some summer trail riding.  

 FAT-Lantis2 

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

>>> -- 
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>
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>
>
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Re: [RBW] Three Things

[Philip Kim]

Leah these were Rivendell's "friction" shifters for the Clem and Appaloosa, 
made by Sunrace. They are essentially index parts modded for friction 
shifting. They click, but technically can be friction shift. However, the 
slight index can make it hard to get into the right gear, and can create a 
type of ghost shifting. I test rode an Appaloosa and hated these shifters. 
I would just get him Ultegra bar ends for better shifting.

On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 5:25:44 PM UTC-4, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> Those oddball thumbies the Clem came with stock. 
>
> > On Jun 5, 2016, at 2:24 PM, Steve Palincsar  > wrote: 
> > 
> > What shifters do you have? 
> > 
> > On 06/05/2016 05:20 PM, LeahFoy wrote: 
> >> 3. His gears ghost shift. And there's lots of chatter in his gears. Is 
> it possible the REI mechanic didn't install the gearing correctly? Do they 
> need adjustment after a while? 
> > 
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[RBW] Re: Drop bars on Roadeo demos. Which make/model?

[Philip Kim]

I remember riv talking about developing a drop bar with nitto awhile back. 
Could these be it? 

Definitely not a soma highway as it has the nitto stamp sleeves at the bar clamp

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[RBW] Re: VO heads up

[Philip Kim]

gotcha, i've seen framesets, cranks, and stuff on there before that weren't 
discontinued. maybe the hubs are on sale because of sales and not because 
of quality? i never bit on those hubs, only because they were 4x the cost 
of a shimano 105 hub.

On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 12:51:59 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I think just the hi-lo hub. I don't think I can recall a product that was 
> put in 'Specials' that wasn't discontinued.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 10:44:06 AM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> are they discontinuing these hubs? would be a shame as i've heard nothing 
>> but good things about these hubs.
>>
>> On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 9:12:48 AM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>>>
>>> I agree - I have a B17 clone and had to due Swallow butcher job on it to 
>>> get it comfy, that after doing the water-soak and ride method to break it 
>>> in.
>>> I was tempted by the lo-hi hub, but figured if VO is discontinuing it, 
>>> there's probably a reason why - I don't want to find out what that reason 
>>> is. 
>>> David
>>> Chicago
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 6:55:21 AM UTC-5, Howard Hatten wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I jumped on one of those VO saddles a couple years ago for $50. It 
>>>> looked so nice I had to try it. The leather was very stiff.  I was never 
>>>> able to get it to break in so I gave it away. 
>>>>
>>>> Howard
>>>> Livonia Mi
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: VO heads up

[Philip Kim]

are they discontinuing these hubs? would be a shame as i've heard nothing 
but good things about these hubs.

On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 9:12:48 AM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I agree - I have a B17 clone and had to due Swallow butcher job on it to 
> get it comfy, that after doing the water-soak and ride method to break it 
> in.
> I was tempted by the lo-hi hub, but figured if VO is discontinuing it, 
> there's probably a reason why - I don't want to find out what that reason 
> is. 
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 6:55:21 AM UTC-5, Howard Hatten wrote:
>>
>> I jumped on one of those VO saddles a couple years ago for $50. It looked 
>> so nice I had to try it. The leather was very stiff.  I was never able to 
>> get it to break in so I gave it away. 
>>
>> Howard
>> Livonia Mi
>>
>

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[RBW] FS Compass Rat Trap Pass EL, Super Motos, Smart Sams

[Philip Kim]

Smart Sam's still available, everything else sold.

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[RBW] FS Compass Rat Trap Pass EL, Super Motos, Smart Sams

[Philip Kim]

I decided to go tubeless with standard compass rat traps so these tires can 
be let go:

26x55mm compass rat trap pass EL black sidewalls (pair) $150 shipped

26x2.35 super Moto (pair) $80 shipped

26x2.1 smart sam, folding bead lighter version $75 shipped

All tires being sold are brand new.

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

[Philip Kim]

I've owned a Hillborne and Cheviot, before settling on the San Marcos. This 
I'm building up for my gf, and then waiting for a Hunq, which should be 
ready in a couple of weeks

Once you own one, you want to own them all. They all ride great, but due to 
limitations in space and money, I settles on the Hunq and San Marcos. The 
San Marcos is a bit zippier than a Hillborne. 

>From reaching out to people who've ridden both the San Marcos and the AHH, 
it seems the San Marcos is a bit zippier than the AHH. Maybe it could be a 
nice middle ground between the AHH and Rodeo? Also a bit cheaper. Not as 
nice paint, but Riv geo and lugs.

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 10:38:33 PM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I 
> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and 
> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and 
> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That 
> was sort of rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>
> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort 
> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left 
> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in 
> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp, 
> definitely not rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>
> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the 
> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer 
> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo, 
> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at 
> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of 
> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my 
> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks 
> without having to change frames.
>
> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two mentioned. 
>  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was more modern 
> with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs and SRAM 
> setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much, I like 
> the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It looks 
> clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I expect 
> that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But, using DT 
> shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work with an 
> 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and cons of 
> each.
>
> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some 
> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>
> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer 
> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I 
> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are 
> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv 
> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but 
> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>
> Thanks for any advice you have.
>
> Tim
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Philip Kim]

i recently saw norvidian modded with discs. I wonder if that is safe and if 
someone really wanted discs could do that to an atlantis or a hunq safely. 
just hypotheticals here

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 2:22:02 PM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> i hadn't even thought about that! A disc Hunq would definitely be awesome. 
> Especially since the Clem / Appaloosa are slowly overlapping into Hunq 
> territory...
>
> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 1:32:46 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I think a disc equipped Hunq or Atlantis would be wonderful. 
>>
>> Can't you find bolt-on brackets for rear disk calipers? If so, wouldn't 
>> the easy way to do this be to offer a choice of rim brake or disk brake 
>> forks?
>>
>> Why does everyone spell it "disc" instead of "disk"?
>>
>> On Tue, May 17, 2016 at 11:29 AM, RJM <crccp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I should add that my other mountain bike is a fully rigid single 
>>> speed Niner Sir9, which is a steel 29'er with a carbon fork (yeah, yeah, I 
>>> know.) The bike is fun, but utilizes disc brakes. I do wish riv would 
>>> produce a steel frame bike with disk like the Bombadil disc model, because 
>>> I would be all over it. Rigid fork mountain bikes  are a blast. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 12:26:19 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Rim brakes are fine for road biking and fine for a touring bike where 
>>>> speeds aren't getting too fast. I can see the allure to disc brake 
>>>> equipped 
>>>> touring bikes though since the weight is higher and the possibility of 
>>>> over 
>>>> cooking a rim on a mountain descent is real. 
>>>>
>>>> However
>>>>
>>>> There is absolutely no way I'm going back to rim brakes on mountain 
>>>> bikes thoughand hydraulics are so much better than cable in that 
>>>> arena. 
>>>> Here is the thing, hydraulic disc brakes are super simple to work on and 
>>>> aren't a black box, no more so than cable actuated brakes. The feel of 
>>>> disc 
>>>> brakes when ripping down a trail is loads better than rim brakes, and that 
>>>> includes v-brakes which are strong, powerful brakes. The ease at which I 
>>>> can scrub speed on my Trek Fuel which uses Shimano XT hydraulic disc is so 
>>>> awesome and needed, because I really don't think I could be riding the way 
>>>> I do down the trail with a rim brake. 
>>>>
>>>> Two problems exist with rim braking on a mountain bike, IMHO...mud and 
>>>> grime getting all over the brake track which seems to happen on every 
>>>> ride, 
>>>> and the lever feel stays the same with disc, which doesn't with rim 
>>>> braking. I'm not describing that correctly though; what I mean is that rim 
>>>> braking doesn't seem consistent in the muddy world of mountain biking, 
>>>> compared to hydraulic disc. 
>>>>
>>>> I took my very nice 1996 26" wheeled specialized stumpjumper with 
>>>> canti's out on the trail not too long ago just to see how it rode and play 
>>>> around. The one thing I took from that ride is that rim brakes on mountain 
>>>> bikes suck compared to a disc brake setup. No contest.
>>>>
>>>> Setting up and servicing hydraulic disc brakes like Shimano's XTs is an 
>>>> easier process than setting up canti brakes, especially premier brakes 
>>>> like 
>>>> Pauls, which I find are a pain in the butt to work on. Seriously, they 
>>>> aren't difficult at all. 
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 
>>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Philip Kim]

i hadn't even thought about that! A disc Hunq would definitely be awesome. 
Especially since the Clem / Appaloosa are slowly overlapping into Hunq 
territory...

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 1:32:46 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I think a disc equipped Hunq or Atlantis would be wonderful. 
>
> Can't you find bolt-on brackets for rear disk calipers? If so, wouldn't 
> the easy way to do this be to offer a choice of rim brake or disk brake 
> forks?
>
> Why does everyone spell it "disc" instead of "disk"?
>
> On Tue, May 17, 2016 at 11:29 AM, RJM  
> wrote:
>
>> I should add that my other mountain bike is a fully rigid single 
>> speed Niner Sir9, which is a steel 29'er with a carbon fork (yeah, yeah, I 
>> know.) The bike is fun, but utilizes disc brakes. I do wish riv would 
>> produce a steel frame bike with disk like the Bombadil disc model, because 
>> I would be all over it. Rigid fork mountain bikes  are a blast. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 12:26:19 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>>>
>>> Rim brakes are fine for road biking and fine for a touring bike where 
>>> speeds aren't getting too fast. I can see the allure to disc brake equipped 
>>> touring bikes though since the weight is higher and the possibility of over 
>>> cooking a rim on a mountain descent is real. 
>>>
>>> However
>>>
>>> There is absolutely no way I'm going back to rim brakes on mountain 
>>> bikes thoughand hydraulics are so much better than cable in that arena. 
>>> Here is the thing, hydraulic disc brakes are super simple to work on and 
>>> aren't a black box, no more so than cable actuated brakes. The feel of disc 
>>> brakes when ripping down a trail is loads better than rim brakes, and that 
>>> includes v-brakes which are strong, powerful brakes. The ease at which I 
>>> can scrub speed on my Trek Fuel which uses Shimano XT hydraulic disc is so 
>>> awesome and needed, because I really don't think I could be riding the way 
>>> I do down the trail with a rim brake. 
>>>
>>> Two problems exist with rim braking on a mountain bike, IMHO...mud and 
>>> grime getting all over the brake track which seems to happen on every ride, 
>>> and the lever feel stays the same with disc, which doesn't with rim 
>>> braking. I'm not describing that correctly though; what I mean is that rim 
>>> braking doesn't seem consistent in the muddy world of mountain biking, 
>>> compared to hydraulic disc. 
>>>
>>> I took my very nice 1996 26" wheeled specialized stumpjumper with 
>>> canti's out on the trail not too long ago just to see how it rode and play 
>>> around. The one thing I took from that ride is that rim brakes on mountain 
>>> bikes suck compared to a disc brake setup. No contest.
>>>
>>> Setting up and servicing hydraulic disc brakes like Shimano's XTs is an 
>>> easier process than setting up canti brakes, especially premier brakes like 
>>> Pauls, which I find are a pain in the butt to work on. Seriously, they 
>>> aren't difficult at all. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>>
 Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 

>>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>
>
> -- 
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Philip Kim]

 disc hunq would indeed be wonderful...

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 1:32:46 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I think a disc equipped Hunq or Atlantis would be wonderful. 
>
> Can't you find bolt-on brackets for rear disk calipers? If so, wouldn't 
> the easy way to do this be to offer a choice of rim brake or disk brake 
> forks?
>
> Why does everyone spell it "disc" instead of "disk"?
>
> On Tue, May 17, 2016 at 11:29 AM, RJM  
> wrote:
>
>> I should add that my other mountain bike is a fully rigid single 
>> speed Niner Sir9, which is a steel 29'er with a carbon fork (yeah, yeah, I 
>> know.) The bike is fun, but utilizes disc brakes. I do wish riv would 
>> produce a steel frame bike with disk like the Bombadil disc model, because 
>> I would be all over it. Rigid fork mountain bikes  are a blast. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 12:26:19 PM UTC-5, RJM wrote:
>>>
>>> Rim brakes are fine for road biking and fine for a touring bike where 
>>> speeds aren't getting too fast. I can see the allure to disc brake equipped 
>>> touring bikes though since the weight is higher and the possibility of over 
>>> cooking a rim on a mountain descent is real. 
>>>
>>> However
>>>
>>> There is absolutely no way I'm going back to rim brakes on mountain 
>>> bikes thoughand hydraulics are so much better than cable in that arena. 
>>> Here is the thing, hydraulic disc brakes are super simple to work on and 
>>> aren't a black box, no more so than cable actuated brakes. The feel of disc 
>>> brakes when ripping down a trail is loads better than rim brakes, and that 
>>> includes v-brakes which are strong, powerful brakes. The ease at which I 
>>> can scrub speed on my Trek Fuel which uses Shimano XT hydraulic disc is so 
>>> awesome and needed, because I really don't think I could be riding the way 
>>> I do down the trail with a rim brake. 
>>>
>>> Two problems exist with rim braking on a mountain bike, IMHO...mud and 
>>> grime getting all over the brake track which seems to happen on every ride, 
>>> and the lever feel stays the same with disc, which doesn't with rim 
>>> braking. I'm not describing that correctly though; what I mean is that rim 
>>> braking doesn't seem consistent in the muddy world of mountain biking, 
>>> compared to hydraulic disc. 
>>>
>>> I took my very nice 1996 26" wheeled specialized stumpjumper with 
>>> canti's out on the trail not too long ago just to see how it rode and play 
>>> around. The one thing I took from that ride is that rim brakes on mountain 
>>> bikes suck compared to a disc brake setup. No contest.
>>>
>>> Setting up and servicing hydraulic disc brakes like Shimano's XTs is an 
>>> easier process than setting up canti brakes, especially premier brakes like 
>>> Pauls, which I find are a pain in the butt to work on. Seriously, they 
>>> aren't difficult at all. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>>
 Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 

>>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> .
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seeking advice: How to clean bartape off my Albatross bars

[Philip Kim]

goo gone is awesome

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 11:07:48 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Goo Gone also works well.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
> On May 17, 2016, at 8:06 AM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
> Hatchet! Grin.
>
> Actually, lighter fluid and a rag will do wonders.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 8:52:13 AM UTC-6, Rob H. wrote:
>>
>> Any pointers on how to clean off all the bar tape gunk that will be there?
>>
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Bosco Bullmoose cockpit, Paul Comp everything

[Philip Kim]

Paul Motolites are sold.

On Monday, May 16, 2016 at 9:50:04 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> Selling my bosco bullmoose cockpit, new. Everything was assembled for fit, 
> but never used.
>
> Bosco Bullmoose - Clem take offs - $80 shipped.
>
> Paul Cantilever Brake Lever (short pull), black - $80 shipped
>
> Paul Thumbies - before the redesign, for mtb handlebars, black - $45 
> shipped
>
> Paul Motolite Silver (pair) - $150
>
> I'm thinking $330 shipped for everything?
>
> I'm thinking $195 shipped if you take everything, but the Motolites brakes.
>
> I can part out as well.
>
> Please message me off-list and I can send pictures upon request, broke my 
> phone so would need to do it on my ipad at home.
>
> Also willing to trade for Nitto 32F mini front rack or Tektro Road brake 
> levers (prefer RL341), and work out the difference.
>

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[RBW] FS: Bosco Bullmoose cockpit, Paul Comp everything

[Philip Kim]

Selling my bosco bullmoose cockpit, new. Everything was assembled for fit, 
but never used.

Bosco Bullmoose - Clem take offs - $80 shipped.

Paul Cantilever Brake Lever (short pull), black - $80 shipped

Paul Thumbies - before the redesign, for mtb handlebars, black - $45 shipped

Paul Motolite Silver (pair) - $150

I'm thinking $330 shipped for everything?

I'm thinking $195 shipped if you take everything, but the Motolites brakes.

I can part out as well.

Please message me off-list and I can send pictures upon request, broke my 
phone so would need to do it on my ipad at home.

Also willing to trade for Nitto 32F mini front rack or Tektro Road brake 
levers (prefer RL341), and work out the difference.

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[RBW] Re: Need your advice on headsets

[Philip Kim]

cane creek 110 is very good.

On Monday, May 16, 2016 at 12:06:26 AM UTC-4, Sean on Bike wrote:
>
> My Hilsen needs a new 1 inch threaded headset because I apparently rode 
> with it too loose for the past 5 years and damaged the race, according to 
> trusted LBS. The headset came with the frame I purchased from Rivendell and 
> LBS could't determine what brand it is. Something cheap, I'm sure.
>
> I have essentially two options, a $30 Tange or equivalent, or a $150 Cane 
> Creek or Chris King. Headsets are one thing I have no clue about as they 
> all seem the same to me. The best option appears to be a needle bearing 
> Tange selling for $80 at rivbike,com but it's out of stock. 
>
> I would appreciate your experience and recommendations regarding a 
> dependable, affordable replacement. Thanks!
>
> Sean in Eden Prairie 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Let's see your sage Sams

[Philip Kim]

Jack,

I didn't have my Sage Hillborne too long, but here are the only pictures I 
took of it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/7z5-jtvpyq/

https://www.instagram.com/p/7kq1Osvpxz/

Mine were dark grey. I didn't get around to shellacking it. I probably 
would've gone black next time around.

On Sunday, May 15, 2016 at 11:23:29 PM UTC-4, Jack B wrote:
>
> I've bought a sage Sam from another RBW list member... Woohoo!
>
> So of course I'm daydreaming about how to build it up while I await 
> shipping For now it will be a drop-bar Sam.
>
> Would love to see what color bar tape folks have used on these. I'm sure 
> it would look great with the gold/amber color I've used before, but 
> wondering what else folks have done. Anyone care to share links to their 
> Sage Sammy pics?
>
> cheers,
> Jack
> Portland, OR
>

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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Philip Kim]

Maybe Grant is frustrated with the lack of questioning and reflection when 
it comes to the type of brakes needed for riding. You can't just slap disc 
tabs on Riv bikes and call it a day, you have to design a bike entirely 
around discs, new drop outs for curved fork blades, thicker fork blades, 
reinforcement at the stays, etc. He already doesn't like lawyer tabs.

I think Grant designs what type of bike he wants first and designing around 
that. I remember about him refusing to put canti posts for awhile on AHH 
because the seatstays he chose were not designed to withhold the brake 
forces of cantis. 

Of course this is all speculation, but Grant does advocate for 
accessibility of riding and getting more people to ride bikes - not just 
bike enthusiasts. And he may view rim brakes capable for a vast majority of 
riding a vast majority of people do, but the disc brake enthusiasts along 
with bike industry marketing are luring people/customers to think disc 
brakes are a necessity.

I've read a few comments on some websites/forums like: "beautiful, but wish 
it were disc brake...", which may seem dismissive or not showing 
acknowledgment that Grant designed the bike for a specific purpose. I bet 
he probably gets a number of people call or walk in who are looking into 
biking more "seriously" and are looking for disc brake bikes as a 
pre-requisite.

This is all speculation because I am not Grant, nor do i reside in his 
mind. But trying to picture what it would be like to own a business selling 
great bikes and advocating more people on bikes, only to be dismissed over 
disc brakes. Even Rivendell's "stout" frames are pretty lively over 
something like a Surley Straggler.

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 1:24:32 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:
>
> It almost sounds to me like Grant is arguing with himself inside his own 
> noggin over adding disc brakes to his line up. Or was this started by 
> customers?  
>
> As I was reading, I thought to myself, "Ok, my Hunqapillar is a touring 
> bike rated to carrying a load up to 360lbs, we (Riv & I) live in the East 
> bay hills & near the Sierras, Grant advocates fenders for riding in all 
> weather, so...why not build a touring bike with disc brakes?"
>
> Are customers or would-be customers pestering Grant over his choice of 
> brakes?
>
> John (Happy w/ my Cant's) Phillips
>
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 7:19:47 AM UTC-7, Will wrote:
>>
>> Might be nice to push back to GP and encourage more of these posts. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Philip Kim]

I tend to agree Mark. Although I don't know a lot of people who ride in 
such conditions as you do. Paul touring cantis have been usually great, 
even in the rain. But with a good load on the bike, in the rain going 
downhill, rim brakes I can it  quickly getting dicey. One of the many 
reasons I decided to put myself on the NFE list.

I think generally-speaking, bike manufacturers seem to slap disc brakes on 
everything to market it more versatile, but can't bother to add proper rack 
brazeons. And a lot of mid-level completes don't have quality disc brakes, 
and wheels are not true.

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 11:02:38 AM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> This anti-disc, pro rim-brake argument feels like flogging a dead horse. 
> I've ridden more than enough disc brake bikes to know the appeal and 
> see/feel firsthand how they surpass rim brakes in so many ways. I'm in no 
> way anti-rim brake, in fact I'm usually the odd-man out on rides as the 
> only rim-brake guy, still race canti-brake CX bikes, etc etc etc. 
>
> Just because rim brakes technically have more mechanical advantage, by way 
> of being further from the hub, doesn't mean anything positive or negative 
> on its own. Just because disc rotors are close to the hub and require more 
> stopping force and frame construction considerations also doesn't mean 
> anything positive or negative on it's own. So disc brakes frames need 
> stouter construction and re-enforcementand? I find it particularly 
> amusing coming from Rivendell, who's frames are not exactly known for being 
> built to be light. Yes, discs put large forces on a frame, but who cares? 
> That can be mitigated by design. The fact is, while rim brakes work quite 
> well in most regular circumstances (dry, warm) discs have better and 
> stronger stopping power in lousy conditions than rim brakes will have. 
>
> I remember coming down Rainier on my Atlantis while it was drizzling, 
> loaded with front panniers and saddle bags. Normally I can lift my rear 
> wheel off the ground with the Paul touring canti's, bike unloaded. I was 
> coming down at about 60km/h, not a crazy speed on a bike by any means, and 
> it took me probably 100 meters to come to a stop. I was shocked, and 
> getting ready to jump off my bike into the ditch as I realized I would be 
> sailing through the intersection at the bottom of the hill. Wet rims = 
> compromised braking. Wet rotors = basically no difference. 
>
>
> In winter, when I bring my bike outside into sub-zero temperatures, the 
> warm rims melt the snow as I ride. After applying the brakes, that melted 
> water is spread nice and evenly across the brake track, which freezes 
> shortly after. Many times I've had ZERO braking ability within two blocks 
> of leaving because of this issue. Discs don't run through the snow and are 
> way less susceptible to this problem.
>
> So basically, rim brakes work wonderfully, in some/most circumstances (If 
> I lived in Texas I'd probably never need discs). But disc brakes work just 
> as well in those circumstances, and better in the areas rim brakes fall 
> short, though require some frame construction considerations to be safe. I 
> think most people would agree with that. 
>
> So, I fail to understand why any bike manufacturer would refuse to 
> consider building a bike with discs. If the drawback of discs are hubs 
> popping out of forks (lawyer lips, front-facing drop outs, and through 
> axles solved this already), and frame stress (build the frame accordingly, 
> like pretty much most frame builders out there are doing now), that seems 
> like a pretty paltry price to pay compared to the stated drawbacks of rim 
> brakes: possibly popping tubes and crashing form overheated rims (I know a 
> guy who had this happen on FLAT ground in Texas heat!), or having little to 
> no braking from wet/frozen surfaces, or compromised brakes as a result of 
> bent rims seems like an easy call? Disc = your frame needs heavy 
> re-enforcement. Rim = it almost always works, but when it doesn't you're in 
> for a RUDE surprise. Kinda reminds me of the argument Riv uses against 
> Carbon frames - they usually work, but when they fail, they fail 
> catastrophically 
>
> One of the things i love about the Rivendell brand is championing bicycle 
> design that just works, stuff that makes sense and is no-nonsense. To me, 
> that is exactly what disc brakes are. I think that is why this debate irks 
> me (can you tell LOL), because I agree with pretty much all 
> Grant/Rivendell's opinions except this one. I love my Atlantis, most of the 
> time have no complaints about it's braking abilities, love the look of 
> canti's more than any other braking system, and will continue to have rim 
> brake bikes in the future I'm sure. But man... A disc option of this bike? 
> Or a disc Hunq? I'd be over the moon for that. 
>
> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:19:47 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:
>>
>> Might be nice to push back to GP and 

[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Philip Kim]

I've had SKS and VO fenders. My next set of fender is going back to VO. 
Really nice fenders for the price, and easy to install. Never installed 
metal fenders before VO's, and I installed within like 30 minutes?

Honjo has more sizing options.

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 7:21:06 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Which is better, and why? Diffs?
>
> I have Honjos (~150$) on my Bleriot, but 150$ is a lot of money, compared 
> to ~67$ for VO's, if I ever want to replace the SKS on my Sam with metal 
> fenders.
>
> I have seen a famous blogger (not Grant)  sort of, but not so obviously, 
> refer to VO stuff as "budget", but is that really true? Or is VO stuff good 
> and pretty reliable for long term and not easy to fail?
>

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[RBW] Re: Jan's Appaloosa

[Philip Kim]

looks good, i always like your color choices on the handlebar tape!

On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 2:00:18 AM UTC-4, stonehog wrote:
>
> Pics of the build for my wife's new Appaloosa.  Tape in honor of the late 
> Prince.
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskzHMauB
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] 10 speed inverted shifters for paul thumbies?

[Philip Kim]

Looking to go index thumb shifters, but want to mount them inverted and 
indexed. I'm going 10 speed, and have a Shimano SLX shadow dynasys rear 
derailleur.

Anyone know if the Microshift MTN Shifter can be put on Paul Thumbies? 
(http://www.jensonusa.com/Mountain-Shifters/Microshift-10-SPEED-Bar-End-Shifters).

I've been friction shifting since my old raleigh 10 speed in college so not 
too up to date.

thanks in advance!

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Philip Kim]

oh man, this is such an awesome build. i'm in the process of rebuilding my 
Soma San Marcos for  my gf and bought bosco bullmoose handlebars for it. 
She's been adamant about drop bars. I was finally able to convince her by 
showing her your build. thanks!

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 9:53:12 PM UTC-4, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the pre-order special on the frame. The Clem is 
> a great introduction to Rivendell bikes, and I’m now wondering if this 
> might be the gateway drug to picking up more!
>
> More photos of 

[RBW] Re: RBW home page - Sam H question

[Philip Kim]

sorry about the mix up, i believe it's clear shellac - amber made it more 
brown.

On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:55:58 PM UTC-4, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> When I was at Riv HQ they had another bike that looked similar that was 
> red Newbaums with shellac (didn't ask if it was amber or clear).  The 
> Maroon gets really dark when you add shellac.  I have tried clear shellac 
> with maroon Newbaums and got this...
>
> Betty Foy 
>
> https://flic.kr/p/Eiwm5c
>
> I am going to try red with amber shellac if I try this again.
>
> Scott
>
> On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 11:39:08 PM UTC-6, Reid wrote:
>>
>> When I bring up the RIV web site, the first pic that comes up at the top 
>> of the home page is "Sam Hillborne -- Presale". The bike in the pic has bar 
>> wrap that seems to be a sort of oxblood color. Whatever it is, I really 
>> like the look of it with the Sam H colors. Does anyone have any idea about 
>> what bar wrap materiel that might be?
>>
>> Thanks for any pointers.
>>
>> Reid
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Philip Kim]

i've gotten a hillborne & chev. both had tange BB's.

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 5:20:47 PM UTC-4, Gum N Nuts wrote:
>
> What does Riv use for stock bottom brackets? I'm curious because I've had 
> two different ones - one from a fully built-by-riv cheviot and one from a 
> hillborne frameset - completely eat it. The one on the cheviot lasted about 
> two hundred miles, maybe a thousand on the hillborne. No weird weather, 
> sometimes loaded for camping but otherwise pretty normal riding. Replaced 
> with $25 shimanos both times and no further worry after several thousand 
> more miles on each. 
>
> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
>> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
>> it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>>
>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
>> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 107 
>> or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure out 
>> if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or something 
>> similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and some mud. And 
>> support the occasional overnighter.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Philip Kim]

oh wow, did not know about this before now. thanks this could be really 
cool.

On Thursday, April 28, 2016 at 12:26:45 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Yeah, that is a pretty cool BB. I see White Industries is making an 
> external BB version of their ENO/VBC cranks now, which means I'm not dead 
> set on running square taper all the time (I'm a big fan of their cranks). 
> That threadfit combined with white cranks would make for a super hot and 
> long lasting combo. 
>
> On Thu, Apr 28, 2016 at 11:11 AM, Mike in WA  > wrote:
>
>> Different kettle of fish from the square taper world, but I'll be 
>> upgrading to a Chris King Threadfit BB ($155) when my disposable Shimano BB 
>> ($20) goes bad. Riding in dirt and wet conditions all the time leads to a 
>> lot of grime, and I found the cheapo bottom brackets go bad in about a 
>> year. With the King design, you can easily flush out and add new grease 
>> with a special tool, whereas the Shimanos say "do not disassemble" on the 
>> cups and you have to just throw them away when they get contaminated. I'd 
>> rather have something that is serviceable and won't creak or squeak (like 
>> some cheap BB's do because of larger mfg. tolerances) over the long term. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>>
>>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
>>> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
>>> it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>>>
>>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
>>> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 107 
>>> or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure out 
>>> if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or something 
>>> similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and some mud. And 
>>> support the occasional overnighter.
>>>
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[RBW] Re: How do you like your first step-through bike?

[Philip Kim]

I had a cheviot for a brief while as well. I liked how it rode, but if I 
could go back I probably would've gotten the Clementine.  I would always 
hit my feet on the Chev top tube, I kept thinking it was lower than it 
actually was.  The slight bend of the Clementine would also make it easier 
to carry up and down my apartment steps (which I found was a bit 
inconvenient). A normal top tube was more convenient as I could just 
shoulder it (have a Hunq on order now).

If you don't have to worry about stairs, I would go Cheviot. Unless you 
want fatter tires, but I found the 50cm Cheviot with Switchback Hills a 
really great ride. 

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 4:25:15 PM UTC-4, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Sometimes stepping over my top tube feels like a chore.  Not very often, 
> usually at the end of a long ride or just when I'm carrying a lot of stuff. 
>  When I test rode a clementine after a sam and clem I didn't notice any 
> greater convenience mounting or dismounting.  But it wasn't a long or 
> heavily laden ride.  So looking for thoughts from people that were on the 
> fence like me kinda intrigued but hesitant and took the plunge.  
>
> After all this time, still debating sam clem clementine maybe even 
> that lone cheviot
>

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Philip Kim]

white industries stainless steel BB are nice, but they run sizes specific 
for their cranks.

otherwise, I would just get a phil bb (for adjust-ability), or an SFK (if 
you don't wanna buy extra phil tools). 

i've used shimano un55/75's and they are great bang for the buck, but do 
require frequent replacement if you're riding a lot in dirt/mud/rain.

lately i've invested a bit more in parts and have become more of a "set it 
and forget it" type.

On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 4:27:49 PM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>
> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
> it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>
> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 107 
> or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure out 
> if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or something 
> similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and some mud. And 
> support the occasional overnighter.
>

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo

[Philip Kim]

nice looks good! congrats!

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 11:46:49 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
>
> Long time lurker. 
>
>
> I came upon Rivendell’s bikes (and Grant’s writings) about two years ago 
> and have wanted one ever since. After selling two of my existing bikes, I 
> took the plunge and ordered the demo 61” Roadeo (pre-beausaged!) that was 
> for sale on the Riv website. This weekend, I took it out for a short maiden 
> voyage up the Schuylkill River Trail here in Philly. 
>
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35128198@N02/26641946766/in/dateposted-public/
>
>
> Needless to say, it performed admirably! It’s the first non-mountain bike 
> I’ve ever owned with a proper seat tube angle for me. I finally felt like I 
> didn’t have all of my weight on the handlebars! It was already comfortable. 
> After the photo was snapped, I lowered the seat about a cm and will 
> probably lower the handlebars a hair.
>
>
> As you can see, I’ve swapped out the original handlebars (I have long legs 
> and a shortish torso and have never been entirely comfortable with drop 
> bars on any bike that fits me). I like the albatross bars (they sure are 
> pert-ty), but I’m not completely sold yet. I have narrow shoulders and they 
> feel a tad wide to me…but I may just need to get used to them. Or I may 
> equip them with VO Porteur bars. I love them on on my single speed and have 
> always admired the setup I’ve seen on Brian Hanson’s blog. If anyone has 
> any recommendations for bars, that would be great. And if anyone knows of 
> non-race-oriented riding groups here in Philly, let me know. I’d love to 
> take my new Roadeo on one.
>
>
> Thanks to all the posters here! The group has been super helpful in the 
> research leading up to my purchase. Best,
>
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: 26in wheelset recommendations (inexpensive WTB?)

[Philip Kim]

Xm719 are what I rode for awhile. XC317 are also great albeit a little heavier

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[RBW] Re: 26in wheelset recommendations (inexpensive WTB?)

[Philip Kim]

are these the handspun series? just sold my set for dyno wheelset. if so, 
great wheelset and can vouch.i think mine were 32h though.

On Friday, April 22, 2016 at 3:07:33 PM UTC-4, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> I'm selling a wheelset that I had built last summer that might fit the 
> bill.  26" 36h xt/Mavic 719 with shchwalbe rim tape-tubes-2.35" smart sams. 
>  $400?
>
> FW,
>
> Captain Conway
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 26in wheelset recommendations (inexpensive WTB?)

[Philip Kim]

rhinos are nice. i think mavic has some pretty affordable ones as well.

On Friday, April 22, 2016 at 12:33:10 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> aside from my 80's mtb. i am venturing into the world of newer 26in 
> wheels. looking for something that is basically the equivalent of xt/dyad. 
> 36 hole, tough and can take a 2in tire at various pressures. 
>
> the rub is that i need to do this as inexpensively as possible. im in no 
> rush but i want to start looking out for deals.  
>
> also, if you have something that fits the bill, and you wont be insulted 
> by an offensively low offer, let me know. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Annoying unwanted commentary/advice while riding a Rivendell.

[Philip Kim]

hahahahahaha, 

On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 at 9:02:17 AM UTC-4, Jay LePree wrote:
>
>
> At the risk of repeating myself, I will share a funny story.  I have a 
> Rivendell Rambouillet with a rear rack, fenders, lights, etc.  I use it to 
> get back and forth to work, and depending on my route, I will encounter 
> some small steep hills.  While riding up one of these hills, a fully kitted 
> out guy comes behind me and rather sarcastically asks, "Nice bike, does it 
> have a bell?"  I ring the bell and then tell him it has a horn too.  At 
> that moment, I stand an rip a loud fart.  It kinda surprised me how loud 
> and long it was, so I start laughing.  I am laughing so hard that it 
> becomes contagious, and racer boy starts laughing.  We both are laughing so 
> hard that we had to dismount and walk the bikes up the rest of the hill.
>
> So to answer your question, "It is not the bike, it is the engine is 
> always a good reply."  Maybe showing him the horn is a second good reply.
>
> Jay LePree
> Demarest, NJ
>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Saddlebag Grip and Nitto R-15 Rear Rack

[Philip Kim]

Interested in saddlebag grip, can't pm. Can you email at philipw...@gmail.com?

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[RBW] Re: Awesome Cheviot Build

[Philip Kim]

hahah this is great

On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 11:07:35 AM UTC-4, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Wooly, baby. My colleague Gail here at the Habitat ReStore is also a 
> part-time farmer, and she raises a few sheep for fiber (and New Hampshires 
> for meat). She was late earlier this week because one of her Cheviots gave 
> birth. (Late again this morning with a  Shetland, but no Riv content 
> there.) Despite the relatively short wheelbase, not recommended for 
> apartment living without prior landlord approval in writing. Cutest. 
> Cheviot. Going! I mean boing! This breed is nicknamed Cheboings because 
> they like to boing up and down.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 1X10: How clean it is!

[Philip Kim]

At that point wouldn't you want to just spend a hundred dollars more for a 
Rohloff? Just looking at the 1x12 SRAM prices, $420 for the cassette which 
is a quick wearing component seems steep. Even their driver body is almost 
$100 alone.

Rohloff would have more gears, weather sealing, and would last longer right?


On Tuesday, April 12, 2016 at 1:08:46 PM UTC-4, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I'm coming around to the merits of a 1xn drive. I believe on my custom 
> I'll be going with a 1x11, I'd love to go 1x12 but Sram is the only game in 
> town at the moment (and the price is prohibitive) if my memory serves me 
> and I sort of favor Shimano. Why? Just a preference. My custom won't be 
> ready till 2017 so Shimano has some time to get on the ball. 
>
> You're Jones plus is indeed a sweet ride. I think Jeff has really figured 
> out a lot in terms of geometry and the truss fork looks so cool. 
>
> ~Hugh
>   Los Angeles, CA
>
> On Saturday, April 9, 2016 at 8:44:25 PM UTC-7, Mike in WA wrote:
>>
>>
>> I just got back from my first proper ride with the new 1X10 drivetrain on 
>> my Jones Plus and I can say it's the best improvement I've ever made to a 
>> bike. I was having major trouble with chain drops and poor shifting on my 
>> 2X9 setup so I converted to 1X10 using a Wolf Tooth 32t ring, XT clutch 
>> derailer, the new Sunrace 11-42 cassette, and a Microshift 10-speed thumb 
>> shifter to replace my Silver shifters. The psychic liberation of not having 
>> to even think about a front derailer, gear overlap and cross-chaining made 
>> shifting a breeze and helped me to be more present in the ride. Also helps 
>> that I wasn't having to stop, don a nitrile glove and curse at my FD! I 
>> found that I lost nothing that I needed on the high gear-inch end, and I 
>> still maintained my exact same low gear from before. 
>>
>> My riding performance priorities are: 1) capable and easy to use mountain 
>> bike 2) reliable commuter 3) gravel/dirt bike with adequate gear range. 
>> This setup seems likely to nail all of those with aplomb, though I haven't 
>> had a chance to mountain bike with this rig yet. I expect that the ease and 
>> improved reliability of shifting will allow me to get better at climbing 
>> instead of just giving up when the god damn shifting doesn't work! If 
>> you're doing any riding other than road racing, I can't see how a double or 
>> triple chainring setup could be better. Front derailers are stupid and 
>> unnecessary, IMO. 
>>
>> I feel a bit like an outsider who posts off-topic too much on this list 
>> since I've ditched all of my Rivendells, but I think this type of setup 
>> really accords with the values/goals of most of you lugged steel people 
>> have. I think a Hunqapillar, Clem/Clementine, Joe, or Sam would all be 
>> awesome with a 1X10 drivetrain. I felt like a bit of a traitor going to 
>> indexed shifting, but that also might be something worth considering. With 
>> the relatively large jumps on an 11-42 cassette, I found the indexing to be 
>> quite appropriately stepped and easy to use. It's kind of nice having that 
>> solid click working for you. This is coming from someone who rode friction 
>> or fixed gears for the past 10+ years. This new-fangled Dynasys 10-speed 
>> universe is actually quite nice, I promise.
>>
>> Here's the bike 
>>
>> Over and out. 
>>
>> Mike in WA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hidden Blogs?

[Philip Kim]

Yeah seems super long for a 50cm med bike

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[RBW] Re: Please discourage me

[Philip Kim]

I won't discourage it, but i will try to channel it. Maybe get yourself an 
older cheap bike and strip the paint off instead of stripping the otherwise 
beautiful paint from the Sam.

>From there you can just leave it raw or just oil it with linseed or wax it 
every few months and you won't feel bad if it develops surface rust. Use 
rust remover when needed. If you powder coat clear you can trap the rust 
under the coat.

It will also be pretty cheap, and you can powder it back a cool color and 
sell it if you end up changing your mind.

For example - 
http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/ratty-80s-specialized-stumpjumper-15813

On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 at 12:20:00 PM UTC-4, Adama wrote:
>
> Does this ever happen to you?  You get a silly notion.  Doesn't matter how 
> big or how small: you're poaching an egg one morning and decide it's time 
> to switch out the cockpit...chuck the drops, now I'd like to try that 
> Albastache.  Sure, no big deal.  Most of us like to tweak things here or 
> there.
>
> Or: alternately, starring into that same swirling eddy of egg white as it 
> congeals...I'm ready for a mixte...time to scrap the roadie project...I'm 
> all about the step-through now.
>
> It happened to me.  I'm perfectly happy with my Sam 
> .
>
> I've been happy with it for years.  Now I've got this silly notion that I 
> can't shake.  It crept in a year or two ago when I saw some pictures from 
> folks on this list: Powder coat over raw metal, oh how interesting.  
>
> Fast forward several years of breakfast later.  I just can't shake it.  I 
> forget about it now and then, and then something reminds me of that 
> Bombadil, Hunqapillar, and Protovelo... 
>
> So please, discourage me.  How silly it would be to take this beautiful 
> Sam and strip it to bare metal.  We all know that a clear powder coat over 
> raw steel may or may not have much longevity.  Depends.  Let's just forget 
> that for a moment...
>
> Please, indulge me:  let's just say this Sam got stripped of paint.  I'd 
> only want this done if I knew that the frame had not been evenly blasted 
> prior to painting.  The even blasting makes it look it uniform--not 
> bad--but not what I'm going for.  I'd be going for that fiery, uneven look.
>
> My question is: is there any way to know whether my frame had been evenly 
> blasted prior to painting?  Is this making sense?
>
> Thanks,
> Adama
>

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[RBW] ISO MTB 1" threadless fork.

[Philip Kim]

maybe something. Like this? 
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/high-rider-stem-adapter-threadless-steerers

Though you need a shim for the steerer part. 

Maybe this might be better if you're not opposed to quill 
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/quillinator

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[RBW] Re: 1X10: How clean it is!

[Philip Kim]

nicee, the 1x? drivetrain will also allow you to run fatter tires in the 
rear so also a plus.

was debating on getting a jones, but decided to put in for a hunq instead. 
looks awesome!

On Saturday, April 9, 2016 at 11:44:25 PM UTC-4, Mike in WA wrote:
>
>
> I just got back from my first proper ride with the new 1X10 drivetrain on 
> my Jones Plus and I can say it's the best improvement I've ever made to a 
> bike. I was having major trouble with chain drops and poor shifting on my 
> 2X9 setup so I converted to 1X10 using a Wolf Tooth 32t ring, XT clutch 
> derailer, the new Sunrace 11-42 cassette, and a Microshift 10-speed thumb 
> shifter to replace my Silver shifters. The psychic liberation of not having 
> to even think about a front derailer, gear overlap and cross-chaining made 
> shifting a breeze and helped me to be more present in the ride. Also helps 
> that I wasn't having to stop, don a nitrile glove and curse at my FD! I 
> found that I lost nothing that I needed on the high gear-inch end, and I 
> still maintained my exact same low gear from before. 
>
> My riding performance priorities are: 1) capable and easy to use mountain 
> bike 2) reliable commuter 3) gravel/dirt bike with adequate gear range. 
> This setup seems likely to nail all of those with aplomb, though I haven't 
> had a chance to mountain bike with this rig yet. I expect that the ease and 
> improved reliability of shifting will allow me to get better at climbing 
> instead of just giving up when the god damn shifting doesn't work! If 
> you're doing any riding other than road racing, I can't see how a double or 
> triple chainring setup could be better. Front derailers are stupid and 
> unnecessary, IMO. 
>
> I feel a bit like an outsider who posts off-topic too much on this list 
> since I've ditched all of my Rivendells, but I think this type of setup 
> really accords with the values/goals of most of you lugged steel people 
> have. I think a Hunqapillar, Clem/Clementine, Joe, or Sam would all be 
> awesome with a 1X10 drivetrain. I felt like a bit of a traitor going to 
> indexed shifting, but that also might be something worth considering. With 
> the relatively large jumps on an 11-42 cassette, I found the indexing to be 
> quite appropriately stepped and easy to use. It's kind of nice having that 
> solid click working for you. This is coming from someone who rode friction 
> or fixed gears for the past 10+ years. This new-fangled Dynasys 10-speed 
> universe is actually quite nice, I promise.
>
> Here's the bike 
>
> Over and out. 
>
> Mike in WA
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Low-Profile Canti Recommendation.

[Philip Kim]

this

On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 11:44:01 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> There's actually no such thing as a "used" Paul brake.  Only the springs & 
> o-rings wear and they are available & easily replaceable.
> Michael
>
> On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 10:43:13 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>>
>> My favorite Cantis. Are first gen. XTR, I like the Pauls (got'em on my 
>> Clementine), but honestly if you watch the auction site you can find front 
>> & rear sets for less than a 100 bucks. They will be used so price according 
>> to condition,  but they are hard to beat. I have them on 3 bikes!
>> Note: I like'em so much it took a bit of soul searching to kinda let the 
>> cat out of the bag here; the more people looking for them,  the harder it 
>> is to get them for a good price on epay! ;-) so typically I keep my love 
>> for them to myself. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Joe Appaloosa Drive Train

[Philip Kim]

PM'd.

On Thursday, April 7, 2016 at 11:12:42 AM UTC-4, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> Brand New Take-off OEM Parts:
> Crankset: $80
> Shimano Bottom Bracket: $20
> Chain: $20
> Cassette, 9speed 12-36: $35
> Shimano Rear Derailleur: $40
> Shimano Front Derailleur: $25
> Thumb Shifters: $25 
> Brake Levers: $20
>
> Shipping costs not included.
>
> vali...@mac.com 
>

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[RBW] Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Philip Kim]

A homer Hilsen, Sam Hillborne, and Soma San Marcos

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[RBW] Re: Centerpulls vs. cantis

[Philip Kim]

i think each have their uses, since you're comparing both on braze-ons, i 
don't think there's a huge difference in braking power, especially for 
recreational road riding. centerpulls are a bit easier to set up imo, but 
cantis are more convenient if you're using wide road tires (switching 
wheels in and out of the bike frame without deflating tires due to 
clearance at brake arms). i used to ride centerpulls, but have since 
switched to cantis, mainly because of new bike to go off-road more.

On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 12:27:35 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> 1.Which are better for use with fork braze ons and why? For recreational 
> road riding.
>
> 2. Is either just fine? I'm guessing it is but the more online stuff I 
> read, the more overthinking results.
>
> Funny how before I started online bike reading everything about my bikes 
> was just fine.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: For the love of top tubes

[Philip Kim]

april fools!

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:20:35 AM UTC-4, Curtis wrote:
>
> Hello Group,
>
> I do love my 68 cm double top tube Bantam (http://www.bantambicycles.com/)
>
> However, this seems a little over the top.
>
>
> http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/04/01/first-look-brooklyn-bicycle-co-releases-fulton-worlds-first-quintuple-top-tube-frame/#more-125859
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Curtis
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Centerpull Racer, Nitto R14, VP-001 Pedals, Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, Sugino crankset, shimano BB un-55

[Philip Kim]

another update

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 8:51:08 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> updated on whats left
>
> On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 9:35:59 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Paul Racers brakeset, silver, great condition a lot of miles still left - 
>> $160 shipped (*sold)*
>>
>> Nitto R14 (without tombstone, brand new in packaging) - $115 shipped 
>> *(sold)*
>>
>> VP-001 Pedals (thin gripsters) in silver, brand new - $55 shipped 
>> *(sold)*
>>
>> Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, brand new (installed on the bike and taken 
>> off) - $45 shipped
>>
>> Sugino XD600 triple, 44/36/26, brand new (installed on the bike and taken 
>> off), 165mm - $100 shipped
>>
>> Shimano UN55 110mm, brand new in box- $20 shipped
>>
>>
>> Please message me off-list, I can provide pictures as well.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Philip Kim]

what hub/wheel size are you using? if you're using the SP SV hubs, they 
don't have enough power to juice lighting and usb. i have a 650b wheelset 
and went shimano dynohub for this reason.


On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 1:34:15 PM UTC-4, Kelly wrote:
>
> Though the Luxus U is highly loved here I was very unhappy with the Luxus 
> U and was unable to maintain a charge on an iPhone 6 Plus while using 
> mapmyride and the screen off.   The small cache on the light was not 
> enough.  A larger cache battery such as I have with the E-Werk is much 
> better for me at a price of course. 4 other people I know with the 
> Luxus U experience the same issues, as well as with the E-Werk USB.   
>
> Just my experience. 
>
> Kelly
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 12:46:00 AM UTC-5, drew wrote:
>>
>> i bought/am buying the SP/atlas wheel that justin was selling today. 
>> never used a dyno system before. battery lights always did their job. on 
>> tour, it could get tricky, but i never really considered ponying up. but 
>> sometimes the stars align and a good deal meets up with me having a little 
>> extra cash So what do i need, what are some good resources, what should 
>> i avoid, tips, tricks, thoughts, etc. i'm a blank slate.
>>
>> specifics are:
>> -hunqapillar + big front rack
>> -SP PV-8
>> -would like to have lighting and usb charging. need not be simultaneous. 
>>
>> thanks!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Centerpull Racer, Nitto R14, VP-001 Pedals, Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, Sugino crankset, shimano BB un-55

[Philip Kim]

updated on whats left

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 9:35:59 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
>
>
> Paul Racers brakeset, silver, great condition a lot of miles still left - 
> $160 shipped
>
> Nitto R14 (without tombstone, brand new in packaging) - $115 shipped 
> *(sold)*
>
> VP-001 Pedals (thin gripsters) in silver, brand new - $55 shipped *(sold)*
>
> Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, brand new (installed on the bike and taken off) 
> - $45 shipped
>
> Sugino XD600 triple, 44/36/26, brand new (installed on the bike and taken 
> off), 165mm - $100 shipped
>
> Shimano UN55 110mm, brand new in box- $20 shipped
>
>
> Please message me off-list, I can provide pictures as well.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Centerpull Racer, Nitto R14, VP-001 Pedals, Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, Sugino crankset, shimano BB un-55

[Philip Kim]

update on whats left

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 9:35:59 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
>
>
> Paul Racers brakeset, silver, great condition a lot of miles still left - 
> $160 shipped recessed bolt
>
> Nitto R14 (without tombstone, brand new in packaging) - $115 shipped (sold)
>
> VP-001 Pedals (thin gripsters) in silver, brand new - $55 shipped (sold)
>
> Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, brand new (installed on the bike and taken off) 
> - $45 shipped
>
> Sugino XD600 triple, 44/36/26, brand new (installed on the bike and taken 
> off), 165mm - $100 shipped
>
> Shimano UN55 110mm, brand new in box- $20 shipped
>
>
> Please message me off-list, I can provide pictures as well.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa on the Radavist

[Philip Kim]

so bummed swift's color options are limited, that coyote pocket looks sharp.

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 4:40:24 PM UTC-4, Jack Doran wrote:
>
> Appaloosa gets the usual high quality Radavist treatment. Makes you say, 
> "Daamn!"
>
>
> http://theradavist.com/2016/03/jonathans-rivendell-joe-appaloosa-touring-bike/#6
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Bullmoose Dirt Tourer

[Philip Kim]

I think he just took the two bikes that the Appaloosa was said to be a mix 
of, and put famous probably in Riv's own reference to how well those two 
models sell. Maybe just wording??

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 3:45:23 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> From the article I find the assertion kind of questionable that Rivendells 
> "most famous two touring bikes" are the Hillborne and the Hunqapillar. 
>  They've never heard of the Atlantis?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:43:10 AM UTC-7, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>>
>> http://theradavist.com/2016/03/jonathans-rivendell-joe-appaloosa-touring-bike/#1
>>
>> Looks like it's up now. I was really partial to blue, but now I want one 
>> in the mustard color... :)
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:03:43 PM UTC-4, Justin August wrote:
>>>
>>> I see it got shot today for the Radavist!
>>>
>>> Awesome. 
>>>
>>> -Justin
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Bullmoose Dirt Tourer

[Philip Kim]

http://theradavist.com/2016/03/jonathans-rivendell-joe-appaloosa-touring-bike/#1

Looks like it's up now. I was really partial to blue, but now I want one in 
the mustard color... :)

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:03:43 PM UTC-4, Justin August wrote:
>
> I see it got shot today for the Radavist!
>
> Awesome. 
>
> -Justin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike lockers

[Philip Kim]

probably because there will be other people's bikes as well, looks like it 
would be more for protection against weather. might also deter casual 
thieves, if they don't see what type of bikes are under it/if bikes are 
under it at all/etc.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 2:25:02 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Saw these.
> Wonder why they don't want you to lock the case.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Centerpull Racer, Nitto R14, VP-001 Pedals, Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, Sugino crankset, shimano BB un-55

[Philip Kim]

Pauls are recessed. Sorry!

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 9:35:59 AM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
>
>
> Paul Racers brakeset, silver, great condition a lot of miles still left - 
> $160 shipped
>
> Nitto R14 (without tombstone, brand new in packaging) - $115 shipped
>
> VP-001 Pedals (thin gripsters) in silver, brand new - $55 shipped
>
> Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, brand new (installed on the bike and taken off) 
> - $45 shipped
>
> Sugino XD600 triple, 44/36/26, brand new (installed on the bike and taken 
> off), 165mm - $100 shipped
>
> Shimano UN55 110mm, brand new in box- $20 shipped
>
>
> Please message me off-list, I can provide pictures as well.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Need Your Advice on Husband's Crazy Clem Idea

[Philip Kim]

that looks pretty cool, that cupholder is clutch too. echoing everyone 
else: i would put it on a rack and hose clamp it to the rack.


On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 6:15:24 PM UTC-4, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> You all surely remember my zany husband. You know, the one who got a Clem 
> solely because it "matched" my Betty Foy, even though his pile of junk 
> Target Schwinn "rode just fine". Well, I don't know what's come over him 
> exactly, but he has decided to start accessorizing ON HIS OWN. Which is why 
> I now turn to you. I told him, "We must make no decisions about our bikes 
> until we have consulted The List. How else would we know if this was a good 
> idea? We must never have any of our own ideas, and that you may tie to." 
> For reference, his Clem is a 52 cm. That's 700cc, right? Well, anyway, this 
> is what he wants on the front of his bike:  
> http://bamboobee.net/product/classic-wooden-crate/
>
> Don't try to convince him of a Nitto rack and Wald basket. It can only be 
> this bamboo contraption, which he thinks is an original and fabulous idea. 
> Has anyone ever done something like this on their bike? Thoughts? Other 
> suggestions (in the line of crates, I would say)?
>
> Oh, and he intends to ride his Clem around wearing something called a 
> Panama Hat. Or a Newsboy Hat. Just look them up. I really don't know what 
> this world is coming to.
>
> Jesus, be near!
> Leah
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Bullmoose Dirt Tourer

[Philip Kim]

that bullmoose looks like a great bar. really digging the inverse thumbie 
mounts as well.

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 1:41:55 AM UTC-4, Jonathan Neve wrote:
>
> Long time listener, first time caller. Got my Appaloosa unboxed and built 
> yesterday afternoon. I had plenty of time to sit and ponder on what I 
> wanted this build to look like, and enough parts kicking around or on the 
> horizon that a few swaps from the stock build was easy. I'm over the moon 
> about this thing.
>

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[RBW] FS: Paul Centerpull Racer, Nitto R14, VP-001 Pedals, Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, Sugino crankset, shimano BB un-55

[Philip Kim]

Paul Racers brakeset, silver, great condition a lot of miles still left - 
$160 shipped

Nitto R14 (without tombstone, brand new in packaging) - $115 shipped

VP-001 Pedals (thin gripsters) in silver, brand new - $55 shipped

Dia-Compe ENE DT shifters, brand new (installed on the bike and taken off) 
- $45 shipped

Sugino XD600 triple, 44/36/26, brand new (installed on the bike and taken 
off), 165mm - $100 shipped

Shimano UN55 110mm, brand new in box- $20 shipped


Please message me off-list, I can provide pictures as well.


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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Bullmoose Dirt Tourer

[Philip Kim]

Looks like the Soma Porteur Rack Delux.

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 11:30:28 AM UTC-4, dougP wrote:
>
> Really nice. What front rack is that?

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[RBW] Re: First Rivendell, first ride, first post, New Joe Appaloosa

[Philip Kim]

Looks great!

On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 10:04:51 AM UTC-4, 2016_joeApp wrote:
>
> Got my "Joe" on Wed. built on Fri. Went for a 20 mile ride!. All I can say 
> is Wow!!! Rides smooth as silk. My ride is a 62 never had one that big. 
> What a difference the correct size can make!!!  I'm looking forward to a 
> great summer and some major miles on the road!! Thanks for all the chatter 
> and pictures!!
>

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[RBW] WTB: Medium Tan Saddlesack

[Philip Kim]

I got one. Please email philipw...@gmail.com. can't message right now

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day

[Philip Kim]

looking good! that blue is nice.

On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 2:49:09 AM UTC-4, stonehog wrote:
>
> Received the amazing Appaloosa today!  My wife loved it on first ride, and 
> the packing and condition was flawless as usual.  Some pics after I 
> re-assembled.  More to come as we get it be-fendered and be-lighted.
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskwbFNCA
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] Re: New Derailleur suggestions, old derailleur questions

[Philip Kim]

8 speed friction derailleurs-new claris works great, shimano 105 works 
well, and the slx shadow works well. used/use all on 8-9 speed friction.

On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 9:46:45 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> *let me set this up. *
>
> the first bike i ever really built was this 1984 trek 420 mixte for my 
> wife (then girlfriend of 1 year). i stripped it down, had it powdercoated 
> and put it back together with og parts and was very proud of myself. since 
> then, ive built 5 or 6 more bikes up and slowly started noticing all the 
> haphazard work that i had done on the 420. So, over time, i ended up 
> acquiring parts for a 650b conversion, new cockpit, new crank, etc (thanks 
> list). here it is. 
>
>
> 
>
> its pretty much good to go, minus this happening when in granny + lower 
> gears (not a common ratio, im aware)
>
>
> 
>
> i assume this means i need a longer cage derailleur? chain is/was measured 
> according to the sheldon method. 
>
>
> *question 2:*
>
> i have an altus rd on my sam hillborne that is not performing optimally as 
> of late, and im thinking about exchanging it for something nicer. i like 
> the idea of the shadow derailleurs, but dont fully comprehend them and 
> their compatibility. running 8 speed, friction. what new rear derailleurs 
> do people like?
>
>
> *question 3:*
>
> since the trek 420, my wife got a clem (which she adores). this puts the 
> 420 on long car-rack ride/dangerous lock up location/friend borrowing duty. 
> would putting the sam's altus on the trek make sense to solve that 
> cage/chain rub? she is a very light duty and duration rider, so the ghost 
> shifts under pressure and weird noises wont happen or bother her. 
>
>
> *in summary:*
>
> -what rear derailleur should i put on my 8 speed, frictioned sam?
>
> -is that chain/derailleur contact on the trek solved by a longer cage 
> derailleur?
>
> -if yes, would the altus be a good option?
>
>
>
> Thanks!!
>  
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: need help finding a custom quill stem maker?

[Philip Kim]

Because the Jones Loop bar only comes in 31.8

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[RBW] need help finding a custom quill stem maker?

[Philip Kim]

Thnx for suggestions. I believe the ui-12 is too short. I need more than 80mm 
above min insertion line. And thanks for the Google heads up, but that is the 
first thing I did, but didnt turn up much which is why I asked here.

Thnx for the ti cycles tip, looks promising. I'll check Bruce Gordon too but I 
need a face plate to put a Jones Loop bar on. I'll contact him and see if he 
does face plates.

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[RBW] need help finding a custom quill stem maker?

[Philip Kim]

Looking for a 31.8 quill stem. I saw the NItto UI-12, but am afraid with 
only 85mm of height above min insertion line, I am thinking of going 
through the custom route.

Anyone know of any custom stem makers that make quill stems for 31.8 clamps 
that is suitable for offroad use?

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[RBW] Re: need help finding a custom quill stem maker?

[Philip Kim]

Yes, I've seen these. Almost looks like they bent the metal and welded it 
at the bottom of the fold? The reach is a bit too long, and I've heard 
lukewarm reviews, mostly aesthetically positive, but not much in quality. 

Thanks Matt for the recommendation, Winter might be too expensive, but I 
could try to not eat out on lunch this week and could stretch it. Will 
contact him soon.

On Thursday, March 17, 2016 at 11:15:10 AM UTC-4, donavanm wrote:
>
> I assume you've seen the Factory 5 stems that came out last winter, 
> https://wearefactoryfive.com/products/f5-titan-stem? A friend bought one, 
> finish was generally "ok" with a couple of very rough spots they missed 
> polishing or had a bad cast. That's disappointing in a $100 part, but 
> *much* cheaper than custom.
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar 'clicking' with shim

[Philip Kim]

I agree with David. Whenever I went to 26.0 to 25.4 using a shim, it hasn't 
had the best results. But I would probably use loctite over grease.

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 1:48:17 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> David, I know. And someday, maybe. Next time the cables need replacing. 
> Put a lot of money on the card switching over to the Bosco cockpit as was 
> (and a month before my wedding, at that) just to keep things copacetic 
> since it's my daily commuter. Good stems aren't entirely cheap or easy to 
> justify when you already have a small collection of them. And then, the 
> clicking didn't set in until about a week after I'd got comfortable with 
> everything and finished building the bars out. So, now it's also just not 
> worth undoing the hours of wrapping and shellacking just to stop a small 
> ticking sound sometimes.
>
> Lungimsam, everything's crack free. Just put it together a couple weeks 
> ago. The Boscos and the shim are brand new, the stem only has 8 months of 
> use on it from being new last year. Definitely think it's just the metal 
> sandwich. Was worried about the grease too because of the shim, which is 
> why I was pondering maybe more of the Loctite 609 I picked up for the 
> seatpost after reading a different thread on here, or something similar 
> that'd fill the metal-on-metal contact but maybe also help lock it in 
> rather than the opposite.
>
> On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 1:38:06 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> Hi Zed,
>> Not what you're asking, but I'd get a 25.4mm stem. I really don't care 
>> for shimming handlebars and would rather get the appropriate clamp size 
>> stem. I think folks' use the Loctite trick for sleeved bars, which a 
>> shimmed Bosco would be similar to. 
>> David
>> Chicago
>>
>> On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 12:23:54 PM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>>
>>> Just to pick the minds of y'all wonderful people. I'm trying Bosco 
>>> regulars on my Clem after a rough winter of strong headwinds proving the 
>>> albastaches and my wrists weren't getting along when used on the Clem. I 
>>> already had a 100mm Technomic Deluxe around I'd use with the albas on a 
>>> different build, so, I just opted to use that with a shim for the Boscos. 
>>> Fit is fine, and it clamps perfectly fine (not getting any bar rotation 
>>> even with the Boscos leverage). Only problem, if you can call it that, is 
>>> leaning weight on the very ends of the bars will cause a faint clicking 
>>> sound at the clamp in the cooler weather, I'm guessing because of the shim 
>>> sandwich. Anyone know any ways to mitigate that short of a different stem? 
>>> The bars are quite built up and it'd be really annoying tearing them down 
>>> just to fix a clicking. Would maybe a drop or two of something from 
>>> Loctite's catalog help you think?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: need help finding a custom quill stem maker?

[Philip Kim]

thx everyone. looks like i'm going with Joel at Clockwork Bikes. He's made 
a fork for me which I was very happy with, and he was able to source parts 
for a quill stem.

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[RBW] Is there a practical alternative to a Roadeo for lightweight yet comfortable build?

[Philip Kim]

Pierre,

Have you looked at the Soma San Marcos? It's super light. Built up with racks, 
fenders and non light weight parts it's easily 23lb. I have the 51 lb

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[RBW] Re: Comments on Compass Crankset on an A. Homer Hilsen?

[Philip Kim]

I believe Brian who runs the blog Stone Hog has a set on a Hilsen. I think 
he's pretty active on the list if you search his name and private reply to 
one of his posts, I'm sure he'll respond with his experiences.

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 6:46:29 AM UTC-5, Iron Rider wrote:
>
> Anyone using a Compass crankset on a Homer Hilsen? If so, what bottom 
> bracket/spindle are you using? And what are your thoughts on the crankset 
> itself. Feel free to email me if you'd rather comment privately. Thanks!
>

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Re: [RBW] Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[Philip Kim]

Same experience. They claimed it was delivered. They were unable to send me 
tracking number, and said they would refund. Didn't answer any follow up 
emails for a month as I never got the refund. Ultimately had to go through 
my bank. Fortunately, I saved all emails and documentation and had them on 
record that they would refund the amount. Was about a week and a half of 
back and forth between my bank and I, but got it cleared.

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 11:08:40 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>
> Got here too late.  Very happy with my Pass Stow.  
>>
>>
> n.b.:  While the Freight Bag Dan mentions above looks nice, my experience 
> with the company is very bad.  I paid for one on line.  Bag never showed. 
>  All my e-mails were for naught.  I guess I could have sued, but being out 
> of state makes pressing a small claims case throwing good money after bad.
>
> The Swift Pelican I ultimately got works well.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT Brooks C17 for....B17s, Swift

[Philip Kim]

Got everything situated, thanks everyone for the replies!

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[RBW] Re: WTT Brooks C17 for....B17s, Swift

[Philip Kim]

Chad,

Thanks for the offer, i'm good on components for now :( . I just need a 
saddle. My s/o has found the C17 I used to use, to not be comfortable for 
her.

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 9:52:03 AM UTC-5, Chad wrote:
>
> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/TB65LrnvTwo

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[RBW] WTT Brooks C17 for....B17s, Swift

[Philip Kim]

Hello,

Looking to trade a Rust or Slate C17 for a Brooks Swift or B17s prefer in 
brown. Both C17's are in great condition. Getting my s/o's bike together 
and trying to get a saddle on there.

Also willing to sell shipped for $100 each so i can buy used ones if they 
come up down the line.

Thanks!

Phil

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[RBW] Re: IQ-X Headlight

[Philip Kim]

nice! ordered one, getting it soon!

On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 9:33:24 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> My report thus far on the IQ-X headlight:
>
>
> http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2016/03/busch-and-muller-iq-x-headlight.html
>  
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
>

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[RBW] Cheviot in betweener opinions?

[Philip Kim]

Before i sold my chev to size down, I was in between sizes 50 and 55, I sized 
down and glad I did.

I would wait. Also, I know Gravel and Grind had a Chev hanging at the shop, 
looked like a 55cm orange, but couldn't get a close look.

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[RBW] Re: Ditched the dirt drops for Alba's. Not sure yet...

[Philip Kim]

like others, i've had better luck with handlebars just slightly above the 
saddle, and the handle bars angles down less. i used to run the albas 
angled down just a tad more than yours, but found that it had me leaning 
forward onto my hands more.

when i run the bars angled down less, it kind of operated like a perch for 
my hands to hang out.

gonna try to bullmoose boscos, and hope these will be just as good.


On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 3:21:40 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> I decided to try swapping my Soma Portola dirt drop bars on my Atlantis 
> for Albatross bars. I had them on for a short while last year in winter and 
> enjoyed them, but ultimately switched them out because I found the very 
> upright position made it difficult to ride fast or into the wind. I've been 
> using my Atlantis as a daily rider lately, so going fast isn't as much of a 
> concern right now. I just want something comfortable for ripping around 
> town, running errands, lazy evening rides. 
>
> For the most part I've found it to be a success. However I'm surprised to 
> be getting sore hands! Maybe they aren't up high enough? I don't remember 
> having this issue before. But after riding for an hour or so, it seems I 
> have a lot of weight on the bars which causes them to get uncomfortable. 
> What's your experiences been like? 
>
> Either way, it sure does look good. 
>
> Oh, and switching to down-tube shifters has been GREAT so far. No more 
> bruises on my thighs when the weighted bars flop into my leg accidentally. 
> No more worrying about a shifter catching my top tube if it flops over. And 
> the absence of cable housing in the cold and damp weather has resulted in 
> much crisper shifting overall. I'm a fan!
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Large saddlesack simplest and/or cheapest way to mount on a bike without a rack and no eyelets?

[Philip Kim]

I have one of the hupes if you buy shrink wrap I think you can fix it. I'm 
willing to sell mine since I bought a rack to also attach a dyno rack

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