Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RE:Mastr II drift problem
If you would settle for a 2C, I think I have one. Are you looking for UHF or VHF? Bill N4XIR From: steve w4...@localnet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri, August 6, 2010 9:19:59 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RE:Mastr II drift problem Hello, Does anyone have a 5C for the PLL exciter they want to sell? This is the larger Icom. Thanks Steve --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Doug Bade k...@... wrote: There are 5C elements made for that exciter. you just do not have one.. From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of steve Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 1:01 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] RE:Mastr II drift problem I was told that I should be using 5C for receive and transmit but the 5C will NOT fit on my PLL exciter. Any ideas? Steve W4SEF
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Measuring duplexer insertion loss
This did help! Now I found the missing 40 dB... I posted some pics: Duplexer pics http://conturafm.mine.nu/photo/photo_thumb.php?dir=68616d726164696f2f72\ 657065617465722f6475706c657865722f41464c In the folder pass-reject readjusted there's a picture of the view with the 40 dB hidden and how it looked after lowering the ref level. Many thanks for this tip. This is the duplexer leg that I have already readjusted for our freq. Concerning the insertion loss I'm still confused. The procedure is clear to me now, but the result is so far off of what it should be that something must still be wrong. In the folder insertion loss factory condition there are pics to show what I mean. The measured leg is the one that is still in factory condition and has a passband of 425-430 MHz at an insertion loss of 1 dB, according to the factory, and it has not been worked on previously. As suggested I did first connect the cables together with a double female and got 2 dB. This is quite a lot but you see that the resulting insertion loss is still far off 1 dB. What the heck? In the third folder there's a picture of how that duplexer looks from the inside. On the right side you see the removed cover of the cavity flipped over. You see on the far left the adjustment studs, there are big ones to adjust the frequency and in between there are small ones. Does somebody know duplexers of this kind and can tell me what the small ones are for? I could not see any effect in any way when moving these. 73 Martin
RE: [Repeater-Builder] MTR-2000 mic jac
Norm, I doubt it. The GMN6147B mike that is specified for the MTR2000 station is an optional mike for the MCS2000 mobile radio, which normally uses HMN4069E, HMN4072E, or NMN6210D mikes. Since these mikes are not used on MaxTrac, GM300, or M1225 mobile radios, there is likely to be a significant incompatibility. Note that the GMN6147B mike has three side buttons that are used for various control functions within the MTR2000 station and the MCS2000 mobile radio. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NORM KNAPP Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 9:51 AM To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MTR-2000 mic jac is the mic jack pin-out the same on the MTR-2000 repeater as it is on a Maxtrac or GM300 or M1225? Thanks Norm N5NPO
[Repeater-Builder] Pager interference
Hi, I've got a new pager issue that has come up on a tower where we have a VHF repeater. It's about 400 watts erp and 15 feet horizontal distance and 4.3 and 4.7 MHz away (it switches). I'm thinking of using one bp/br can that will have the notch wide enough to cover both channels and one pass can on our RX freq. I can also add more pass cans or something like the DCI window filter. The real question is where to these can go and in what order. We have a standard Q-202 duplexer that worked fine before the pager was put in. I'm thinking that the pager cans will go on the RX side of the duplexer, but does it matter if the pass goes on the duplexer side or the RX side of the bp/br can? I'm kinda thinking that it doesn't matter, but want to do it right in case it does. Dwayne Kincaid WD8OYG
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference
You may have to put a can on the pager transmitter. Pagers use square waves which are very rich in harmonics and need to be filtered at the source. This may be the only way to remove the problem. I speak from experience. Jim wb5oxq in Waco - Original Message - From: Dwayne To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 1:38 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference Hi, I've got a new pager issue that has come up on a tower where we have a VHF repeater. It's about 400 watts erp and 15 feet horizontal distance and 4.3 and 4.7 MHz away (it switches). I'm thinking of using one bp/br can that will have the notch wide enough to cover both channels and one pass can on our RX freq. I can also add more pass cans or something like the DCI window filter. The real question is where to these can go and in what order. We have a standard Q-202 duplexer that worked fine before the pager was put in. I'm thinking that the pager cans will go on the RX side of the duplexer, but does it matter if the pass goes on the duplexer side or the RX side of the bp/br can? I'm kinda thinking that it doesn't matter, but want to do it right in case it does. Dwayne Kincaid WD8OYG -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3056 - Release Date: 08/07/10 01:28:00
[Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
I would NEVER put any electronics in the battery enclosure. All batteries are known to vent some vapor. Even very little acid or basic vapor will ruin the electronics Been there, have the ruined controller to prove it. Ralph, W7HSG - Original Message - From: tahrens301 tahrens @ swtexas .net To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups .com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:05:09 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference
Those pager transmitter are painas some says. we had a similar problem here some years ago,a telecom company installed a Big Motorola Micor there when installed suddently the radio-amateur received interference from it and even the municipality office radio too and they said your are the problem After intervention,letters,emails the Gov Agency came in the discussion and they appear that The pager company was transmitting at HIGHER POWER that it was suppose to be from their license. i always known that when those transmitter when the are installed at a radio site (ofter in the 140 mhz)many problems will occured BUT it always the competence of the tech that must be in consideration also. you always have for what you pay. 73/s all gervais ve2ckn . .. From: Jim in Waco WB5OXQ Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:07 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference You may have to put a can on the pager transmitter. Pagers use square waves which are very rich in harmonics and need to be filtered at the source. This may be the only way to remove the problem. I speak from experience. Jim wb5oxq in Waco - Original Message - From: Dwayne To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 1:38 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference Hi, I've got a new pager issue that has come up on a tower where we have a VHF repeater. It's about 400 watts erp and 15 feet horizontal distance and 4.3 and 4.7 MHz away (it switches). I'm thinking of using one bp/br can that will have the notch wide enough to cover both channels and one pass can on our RX freq. I can also add more pass cans or something like the DCI window filter. The real question is where to these can go and in what order. We have a standard Q-202 duplexer that worked fine before the pager was put in. I'm thinking that the pager cans will go on the RX side of the duplexer, but does it matter if the pass goes on the duplexer side or the RX side of the bp/br can? I'm kinda thinking that it doesn't matter, but want to do it right in case it does. Dwayne Kincaid WD8OYG -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3056 - Release Date: 08/07/10 01:28:00
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Pager interference
Thanks for the input. I don't think that is possible (read practical) since it's a two channel pager. The two pager frequencies are about 500 KHz apart. So there is only one PA and one output in the pager box. I may have to call DCI or someone to get a window filter. Dwayne Kincaid --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim in Waco WB5OXQ wb5...@... wrote: You may have to put a can on the pager transmitter. Pagers use square waves which are very rich in harmonics and need to be filtered at the source. This may be the only way to remove the problem. I speak from experience. Jim wb5oxq in Waco - Original Message - From: Dwayne To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 1:38 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference Hi, I've got a new pager issue that has come up on a tower where we have a VHF repeater. It's about 400 watts erp and 15 feet horizontal distance and 4.3 and 4.7 MHz away (it switches). I'm thinking of using one bp/br can that will have the notch wide enough to cover both channels and one pass can on our RX freq. I can also add more pass cans or something like the DCI window filter. The real question is where to these can go and in what order. We have a standard Q-202 duplexer that worked fine before the pager was put in. I'm thinking that the pager cans will go on the RX side of the duplexer, but does it matter if the pass goes on the duplexer side or the RX side of the bp/br can? I'm kinda thinking that it doesn't matter, but want to do it right in case it does. Dwayne Kincaid WD8OYG -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3056 - Release Date: 08/07/10 01:28:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Agreed... On the other hand as long as the charging voltage is not too high general venting should not be a problem. On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 4:20 PM, Ralph S. Turk w7...@comcast.net wrote: I would NEVER put any electronics in the battery enclosure. All batteries are known to vent some vapor. Even very little acid or basic vapor will ruin the electronics Been there, have the ruined controller to prove it. Ralph, W7HSG - Original Message - From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:05:09 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
I am also somewhat hesitant to put any electronics in the same enclosure, although the enclosure is well vented (with screens to keep the buggies out). I am using a 'Morningstar SunSaver-6 controller. Tim
[Repeater-Builder] HP3551A Service manual
Hi, I saw someone had used a HP3551A TIMS to set up repeater audio levels. I have a used HP3551A also, but it recently stopped working. Wonder if anyone had schematics? The manual I found online had everything but no schematics. A good high resolution Jpeg photo of the schematics would be greatly appreciated. Peter Ex. G8DCB. Now resident in FL.USA.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference
Hello Dwayne, I wonder if the paging company has made a change. Did they used to have two separate transmitters, now only have one that switches frequencies? This has been happening at sites since the pager population is dwindling. Paging companies are taking advantage of the multi-frequency capabilities of their transmitters and, for example, putting all their frequencies in one transmitter. They then eliminate the other transmitters to save rent. This is a cost effective thing for them to do. They need to page on all their frequencies because they have pagers out there on different channels and they don't want to replace individual pagers. If this is the case at your site, here is the downside for you. Because one transmitter is doing many frequencies, they have to eliminate any filter cavities they may have had on each individual transmitter. A site can change from no paging interference to tremendous interference overnight. If the original contract for the paging company required filters (some did) or had a non-interfering clause you may have some recourse. If you are a ham freebee like some of my repeaters are, you may just have to live with it. The real fix is probably going to be on the paging transmitter. 73, Joe, K1ike - Original Message - *From:* Dwayne mailto:ldgya...@ldgelectronics.com *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Sent:* Saturday, August 07, 2010 1:38 PM *Subject:* [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference Hi, I've got a new pager issue that has come up on a tower where we have a VHF repeater. It's about 400 watts erp and 15 feet horizontal distance and 4.3 and 4.7 MHz away (it switches). Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional Change settings via the Web http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join;_ylc=X3oDMTJlNHFkbjJqBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzEwNDE2OARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjMxMDgEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDc3RuZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTI4MTIxNTI0NA-- (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com?subject=email%20delivery:%20Digest | Switch to Fully Featured mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com?subject=change%20delivery%20format:%20Fully%20Featured Visit Your Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder;_ylc=X3oDMTJjcDd1azJhBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzEwNDE2OARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjMxMDgEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDaHBmBHN0aW1lAzEyODEyMTUyNDQ- | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ | Unsubscribe mailto:repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com?subject=unsubscribe
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?
Hi Kevin, I have confirmed that 2 of the 4 finals are bad. both are on one side of the push pull. Both open base connection One has collector to emitter short. The other open emitter. I have not yet checked the drivers I might be able to test them without removal. I have a friend trying to scare up a Mitrek Aside from the transistors which I know are hard to find, and the cooked 12 ohm resistors, Is there something else I need to look for? We think it was an intermittent Duplexer or antenna issue that caused it to blow. We have since replaced the repeater, amp, and duplexer but a desense condition has returned after a few weeks. The antenna is a 4 bay folded dipole on a 100 foot tower. this Antenna replaced a Stationmaster only about 3 years ago. Tower is Rohn 45? guyed with Phillystrand. Thanks for your help. Marty
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Pager interference
Joe, Its a new pager that switches frequency, just recently put up. Fortunately, we're all on good terms and yes, we're a freebie ham group. So that's why we thought about a window filter for them to get it down 30 or 40 db and we'll do the rest on our end. The original question remains... does the pass go in front of the notch or the notch in front of the pass or does it make a difference. Dwayne Kincaid WD8OYG --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe k1ike_m...@... wrote: Hello Dwayne, I wonder if the paging company has made a change. Did they used to have two separate transmitters, now only have one that switches frequencies? This has been happening at sites since the pager population is dwindling. Paging companies are taking advantage of the multi-frequency capabilities of their transmitters and, for example, putting all their frequencies in one transmitter. They then eliminate the other transmitters to save rent. This is a cost effective thing for them to do. They need to page on all their frequencies because they have pagers out there on different channels and they don't want to replace individual pagers. If this is the case at your site, here is the downside for you. Because one transmitter is doing many frequencies, they have to eliminate any filter cavities they may have had on each individual transmitter. A site can change from no paging interference to tremendous interference overnight. If the original contract for the paging company required filters (some did) or had a non-interfering clause you may have some recourse. If you are a ham freebee like some of my repeaters are, you may just have to live with it. The real fix is probably going to be on the paging transmitter. 73, Joe, K1ike - Original Message - *From:* Dwayne mailto:ldgya...@... *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Sent:* Saturday, August 07, 2010 1:38 PM *Subject:* [Repeater-Builder] Pager interference Hi, I've got a new pager issue that has come up on a tower where we have a VHF repeater. It's about 400 watts erp and 15 feet horizontal distance and 4.3 and 4.7 MHz away (it switches). Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional Change settings via the Web http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join;_ylc=X3oDMTJlNHFkbjJqBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzEwNDE2OARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjMxMDgEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDc3RuZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTI4MTIxNTI0NA-- (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com?subject=email%20delivery:%20Digest | Switch to Fully Featured mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com?subject=change%20delivery%20format:%20Fully%20Featured Visit Your Group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder;_ylc=X3oDMTJjcDd1azJhBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzEwNDE2OARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjMxMDgEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDaHBmBHN0aW1lAzEyODEyMTUyNDQ- | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ | Unsubscribe mailto:repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com?subject=unsubscribe
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?
I have a brand new - never used - TLD 1693 VHF amp that I purchased as a back up for a local club. I tried to find - buy - and substitute other final transistors and discovered - there are no more around. They had the MSR2000 repeater and this amp has the M1131 - M1133 - M1134 transistors in the same configuration as the MSR2000. It was something that I purchased with my own money - They have changed repeaters and I was stuck with this extra amp. Should be exactly what you are looking for I am in PA -- Ron rt...@yahoo.com On 8/7/2010 6:52 PM, radi...@aol.com wrote: Hi Kevin, I have confirmed that 2 of the 4 finals are bad. both are on one side of the push pull. Both open base connection One has collector to emitter short. The other open emitter. I have not yet checked the drivers I might be able to test them without removal. I have a friend trying to scare up a Mitrek Aside from the transistors which I know are hard to find, and the cooked 12 ohm resistors, Is there something else I need to look for? We think it was an intermittent Duplexer or antenna issue that caused it to blow. We have since replaced the repeater, amp, and duplexer but a desense condition has returned after a few weeks. The antenna is a 4 bay folded dipole on a 100 foot tower. this Antenna replaced a Stationmaster only about 3 years ago. Tower is Rohn 45? guyed with Phillystrand. Thanks for your help. Marty Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Tim, If your batteries are truly VRSLA/AGM (Valve-Regulated Sealed Lead-Acid, Absorptive Glass Mat) units, you have nothing to worry about- IF the solar charge controller is capable of controlling the charge energy going into the battery bank. VRSLA batteries are designed so that the gases that are produced during normal charging are recombined and not vented. In fact, the batteries in a properly-designed solar system will never vent. The solar charge controller should be placed in the same environment as the batteries, in order to properly sense their temperature. My first solar-powered repeater has been in operation since January 2003, and everything except the antenna is in a large Hoffman cabinet- including the radio- with no signs of corrosion. The only solar systems that I know have problems, have a home-made (read: kluge) controller that is not up to the exacting task of controlling energy into and out of a battery bank, or are using automotive (wet-cell) batteries. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tahrens301 Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 2:05 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
[Repeater-Builder] Re: HP3551A Service manual
http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1980-07-08.pdf bulletin from hp says the product may have had incorrect line fuse if you want to fix it take the cover off and check some basics many of the hp test equipment of this vintage needed power supply caps --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, petedcur...@... wrote: Hi, I saw someone had used a HP3551A TIMS to set up repeater audio levels. I have a used HP3551A also, but it recently stopped working. Wonder if anyone had schematics? The manual I found online had everything but no schematics. A good high resolution Jpeg photo of the schematics would be greatly appreciated. Peter Ex. G8DCB. Now resident in FL.USA.
[Repeater-Builder] MVP problem
Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Ralph, I think Eric Lemmon has explained it very well...but I work for a large telecommunications company here in Canada and we put AGM / VRLA batteries in equipment cabinets all the time and never had a problem. They are mounted on a steel shelf with a rubber mat below them. We do use very high quality charging equipment and regularly monitor the internal Impedance of the batteries. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ralph S. Turk To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries I would NEVER put any electronics in the battery enclosure. All batteries are known to vent some vapor. Even very little acid or basic vapor will ruin the electronics Been there, have the ruined controller to prove it. Ralph, W7HSG - Original Message - From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:05:09 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
[Repeater-Builder] RE:Mastr II drift problem
Hello all, I think I have the problem resolved! I went to the repeater site and modified the plug that goes in to the exciter by putting two resistors and a jumper on the plug to enable the compensate line. Gerald, AA4YQ told me about this. The spare repeater I have here at home already had this mod so I just duplicated it on the one at the site. The one here at the house is very very stable. I did not realize the one at the site did not have this fix. So far it is rock steady and holding frequency! THANK YOU to all that responded with help! You folks are the best!! 73s Steve W4SEF
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem
Steve, that orange wire is Channel Guard disable. It goes to P1001, J910, then to J1001 on the Channel Guard board. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@localnet.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] HP3551A Service manual
Hi Peter, I had my 3551 failed sometime ago, was intermittent connections in the unit, just cleaned and reseated connectors and IC's, unit has worked fine since? You may want to try it and see if it works. From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of petedcur...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 11:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder Subject: [Repeater-Builder] HP3551A Service manual Hi, I saw someone had used a HP3551A TIMS to set up repeater audio levels. I have a used HP3551A also, but it recently stopped working. Wonder if anyone had schematics? The manual I found online had everything but no schematics. A good high resolution Jpeg photo of the schematics would be greatly appreciated. Peter Ex. G8DCB. Now resident in FL.USA.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?
Bill jawjabill...@... wrote: Apparently no one here got the moto memo on working with giant heat-sinks. I never did during my tenure... memo's usually floated in well after the fact or damage done... First you only need a 30-40 watt iron to work on them as moto did at the factory The secret is .. raising the heat-sink to about 3-400 degrees while you are working on what needs to be done. We Moto types in the field... never had the luxury of all the factory recommended service tools. Half the time I was happy the heater or AC actually worked... : PS .. don't touch it with fingers or arms. This technique also lowers possibility of cracking the ceramics. I usually lay out everything that has to be done in advance with extra planning. Hey, I didn't say it was going to be quick... Bill Atlanta The best way to pre-heat up any PA heat-sink is to place it in Taxi Cab Full Duplex Base-Station service in any large city. Those of you who have experienced the application know exactly what I mean. Yeah, watch your fingers... cheers, s.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MVP problem
Hi John, I am certain this wire goes to the audio squelch board that is under the front panelwhere does it hook up there?? 73s Steve --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John J. Riddell ve3...@... wrote: Steve, that orange wire is Channel Guard disable. It goes to P1001, J910, then to J1001 on the Channel Guard board. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: steve w4...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MVP problem Hello all, A friend gave me his MVP UHF repeater to work on. The audio squelch board was bad and I replaced it. I made what I HOPE was all the tracings and jumper connections on this board by copying the old board. The problem is that there is NO audio on the transmitter output when the squelch is opened up. I can hear squelch fine on the transmit output when I press the TEST switch on the front. The squelch control has no effect of course on the squelch while in the test position. There is an ORANGE wire that is connected to this switch on the front but is not connected-like it is broken off from the board. Does this have anything to do with the squelch? The repeater keys up fine when I open the squelch but no squelch noise is present-like it is being muted. When I press the test switch I can hear my audio on a monitor receiver fine when I transmit thru the repeater with my hand held. WHERE does this orange wire from the switch go? Is this the problem? Thanks for any help! Steve W4SEF Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: HP3551A Service manual
Thanks for the HP Bulletin. Long time since I''ve seen one of those (Used to work for HP in the 1970's to 1980's). I have already fixed the 5V Power supply and that was a shorted 390uf 20V Electrolytic cap. But the digital display does not display either level or frequency, although the audio level out is just fine. Did the loop tests in the part of the manual I have and still nothing obvious, so really need a schematic to understand what's is going on. Peter On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 8:02 PM, Fuggitaboutit mikew...@hotmail.com wrote: http://www.hparchive.com/Bench_Briefs/HP-Bench-Briefs-1980-07-08.pdf bulletin from hp says the product may have had incorrect line fuse if you want to fix it take the cover off and check some basics many of the hp test equipment of this vintage needed power supply caps --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, petedcur...@... wrote: Hi, I saw someone had used a HP3551A TIMS to set up repeater audio levels. I have a used HP3551A also, but it recently stopped working. Wonder if anyone had schematics? The manual I found online had everything but no schematics. A good high resolution Jpeg photo of the schematics would be greatly appreciated. Peter Ex. G8DCB. Now resident in FL.USA.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] HP3551A Service manual
Thanks Ralph, On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Ralph S. Turk w7...@comcast.net wrote: I will try to remember tomorrow to look. If you don't hear from me in a day, send me a email Ralph - Original Message - From: petedcur...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 8:18:27 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] HP3551A Service manual Hi, I saw someone had used a HP3551A TIMS to set up repeater audio levels. I have a used HP3551A also, but it recently stopped working. Wonder if anyone had schematics? The manual I found online had everything but no schematics. A good high resolution Jpeg photo of the schematics would be greatly appreciated. Peter Ex. G8DCB. Now resident in FL.USA.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Correction, Error, I meant the normal float charging voltage is usually about 13.65V NOT 12.65 V. On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 9:42 PM, petedcur...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, Sealed Lead Acid Gel batteries do not vent under normal conditions. Referring to 12 V batteries: Just make sure the maximum charging voltage is as per the batteries spec. (usually about 12.65V at 25deg C) My experience is that even when they have been left erroneously charging continuously in equalization mode at 14.4V they bulge, dry out loose capacity pretty quickly but they don't gas and they don't leak. Sealed Gel cells generally should not be equalized at a higher charging voltage. So if you have an equalization setting disable it. Some chargers may have a temp sensor which should be placed on the batteries casing, this helps to adjust the chargers batteries charging voltage to match changes in temperature. As such they are safe to have in the same room as your equipment. I have not yet used AGM type sealed batteries, but they are supposed to be much more durable under repeated deep discharge cycles, a batteries worst enemy in reducing their lifetime. For this reason they are highly recommended for Solar systems. Peter On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 5:05 PM, tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net wrote: Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Hi, Sealed Lead Acid Gel batteries do not vent under normal conditions. Referring to 12 V batteries: Just make sure the maximum charging voltage is as per the batteries spec. (usually about 12.65V at 25deg C) My experience is that even when they have been left erroneously charging continuously in equalization mode at 14.4V they bulge, dry out loose capacity pretty quickly but they don't gas and they don't leak. Sealed Gel cells generally should not be equalized at a higher charging voltage. So if you have an equalization setting disable it. Some chargers may have a temp sensor which should be placed on the batteries casing, this helps to adjust the chargers batteries charging voltage to match changes in temperature. As such they are safe to have in the same room as your equipment. I have not yet used AGM type sealed batteries, but they are supposed to be much more durable under repeated deep discharge cycles, a batteries worst enemy in reducing their lifetime. For this reason they are highly recommended for Solar systems. Peter On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 5:05 PM, tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net wrote: Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
We use the 125ah gel cell in all the repeater cabinets and never had an issue. Mike Mullarkey 303-736-9693 Sent from my iPhone On Aug 7, 2010, at 6:16 PM, John J. Riddell ve3...@earthlink.net wrote: Ralph, I think Eric Lemmon has explained it very well...but I work for a large telecommunications company here in Canada and we put AGM / VRLA batteries in equipment cabinets all the time and never had a problem. They are mounted on a steel shelf with a rubber mat below them. We do use very high quality charging equipment and regularly monitor the internal Impedance of the batteries. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Ralph S. Turk To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries I would NEVER put any electronics in the battery enclosure. All batteries are known to vent some vapor. Even very little acid or basic vapor will ruin the electronics Been there, have the ruined controller to prove it. Ralph, W7HSG - Original Message - From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:05:09 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries Hi Folks, I got a couple of the large AGM batteries for a solar installation, and was wondering if there is any condition that will lead them to vent inside the enclosure? They are sealed, but probably have one-way valves. Can I put the solar controller in the same enclosure? Figured some of you folks have done solar stuff before. Thanks, Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] AGM Batteries
Thanks all for the inputs. These batteries are the 8A31DT, 'valve-regulated, Absorbed Glass Mat Technology' batteries. They recommend a 13.5 - 13.8v float voltage. I will need to check with the Morningstar folks about this... there is no provision for adjusting that voltage (other than a jumper selecting between 'flooded' or 'sealed' battery. The repeater will only be running either 2.5 or 10 watts (not determined yet), but the duty cycle will be very low, so the 6A controller should be more than sufficient. It also has a low voltage disconnect. Guess I won't worry about any gas issues! Thanks again to all. Tim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II drift problem
modified the plug that goes in to the exciter by putting two resistors and a jumper on the plug to enable the compensate line. Gerald, AA4YQ told me about this. Could you please pass along the details of this mod, or point to a link online? Thanks... Steve sbjohns...@aol.com http://www.wd8das.net/ Radio is your best entertainment value.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II drift problem
It's on the page that I've posted the link to three times hoping that Steve would look at it. See this article http://www.repeater-builder.com/ge/m2icoms.html Read the whole thing, and look for the paragraph that starts There is one way to cheat Mike WA6ILQ At 09:38 PM 08/07/10, you wrote: modified the plug that goes in to the exciter by putting two resistors and a jumper on the plug to enable the compensate line. Gerald, AA4YQ told me about this. Could you please pass along the details of this mod, or point to a link online? Thanks... Steve sbjohns...@aol.com http://www.wd8das.net/ Radio is your best entertainment value. Yahoo! Groups Links
