[Repeater-Builder] Re: Measure return loss and cable fault with HP 8924C
See page five for an explanation of the process... http://206.209.106.106/datasheets/Miscellaneous/54100a-4.pdf Again, doable, but messy. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dickson dicksonf...@... wrote: Hi, Thanks for your info. Though a bit complicated, it is still doable. By the way, how to measure the cable fault location without the 11807 software? Thanks and Regards, Dickson Fu VR2WHF --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, ve7fet yahoogroups@ wrote: First you'll need a return loss bridge. No replacing that. The 11807 software can make things a little prettier, but you can still do return loss quite easily. Distance to fault is going to be a bit more challenge, but it can be done too. Return loss is the easiest to set up. You'll need to set up the tracking generator/spectrum analyzer for the range you want to measure. Use the Duplex Output and connect it to the Source port on the RLB. Use the Antenna Input and connect it to the Reflected port on the RLB. You optionally may want to put a 6dB pad in between the Duplex Out and RLB Source port. With the DUT port open on the RLB, you should have a trace on the spectrum analyzer over the range you are sweeping. Now, you can turn up the output power of the Duplex Port until the trace gets close to the reference level at the top, or go into the menus on the spectrum analyzer and do a Save A and then a A-B to null out the sweep. Now, when you put a good load on the DUT port, you should get a return loss down ~40dB or so. Hook up the DUT you want to sweep and go. Yes, this is quick and dirty, but it gets the job done when you are not looking for fractions of a dB... Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dickson dicksonfuhk@ wrote: Hi all, Without the RF Tools provided by 11807E opt 100 on HP 8924C, how to measure return loss and cable fault? The 11807E opt 100 provides the IBASIC program that can show the return loss profile over the range of frequency and indicates the max/min return loss and the corresponding frequency. Thanks and Regards, Dickson Fu VR2WHF
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Base station coax connector weatherproofing recommendations?
Pulling it back apart isn't an issue with the 130C if you apply it sticky side out. Once you slit down through the vinyl and 130c with a knife, you can peel it apart to open up the splice. Yeah, its a little work to get it to release from the jacket of the cable... but its doing its job keeping the water out. It usually releases from the metal connector parts fairly readily. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 skipp...@... wrote: I lay down a base wrap of decent quality tape before applying the Scotch 130c because I do work for (other) people who very often change their mind. Pulling 130c direct from a connector is a real $#$%* Having a base layer of tape below the 130c can and will make your change order life much happier. s.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Measure return loss and cable fault with HP 8924C
First you'll need a return loss bridge. No replacing that. The 11807 software can make things a little prettier, but you can still do return loss quite easily. Distance to fault is going to be a bit more challenge, but it can be done too. Return loss is the easiest to set up. You'll need to set up the tracking generator/spectrum analyzer for the range you want to measure. Use the Duplex Output and connect it to the Source port on the RLB. Use the Antenna Input and connect it to the Reflected port on the RLB. You optionally may want to put a 6dB pad in between the Duplex Out and RLB Source port. With the DUT port open on the RLB, you should have a trace on the spectrum analyzer over the range you are sweeping. Now, you can turn up the output power of the Duplex Port until the trace gets close to the reference level at the top, or go into the menus on the spectrum analyzer and do a Save A and then a A-B to null out the sweep. Now, when you put a good load on the DUT port, you should get a return loss down ~40dB or so. Hook up the DUT you want to sweep and go. Yes, this is quick and dirty, but it gets the job done when you are not looking for fractions of a dB... Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dickson dicksonf...@... wrote: Hi all, Without the RF Tools provided by 11807E opt 100 on HP 8924C, how to measure return loss and cable fault? The 11807E opt 100 provides the IBASIC program that can show the return loss profile over the range of frequency and indicates the max/min return loss and the corresponding frequency. Thanks and Regards, Dickson Fu VR2WHF
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Base station coax connector weatherproofing recommendations?
I'll second that, Eric. Have used that same procedure and materials for years on thousands of connections in the cellular industry. The only failures have been due to human error in the proper application, or birds pecking the joint apart. Scotch 130C is excellent stuff. I wouldn't use anything else. Google is and read the datasheet to read the proper application technique (sticky side out). Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Tony, Your mentor has the right idea, but a minor change might help. First of all, regardless of the tape used, it should *always* be wrapped from bottom to top, so that it sheds water. Doing it from top to bottom will bring water into the splice- not good! The preferred method of waterproofing connectors starts with Scotch 130C Linerless Rubber Splicing Tape. This is self-vulcanizing tape that is used for high-voltage (12,000 and up) splices, and is the primary waterproofing layer. Follow this with two layers of Scotch Super 88 Vinyl Tape- this stuff is much better than 33 tape, which itself is great stuff. Finally, coat the whole splice with Scotchkote Electrical Sealant. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSF5k - No Tx
Hi Scott, Finally got to dig out my MSF manuals for a look. Looking on the schematic, I see JU1 and JU2 being related to the HSR (High Speed Ring) data bus. If this is the JU1 you moved, then it would change the communication path between the SSCB and the TTRC and/or the SECURE board(s). That likely explains the crash on boot when it can't find the modules its looking for since it can no longer talk to them. Here is what my manual (68P81082E20-A) says about Power Control Servicing: When servicing the station, it may be necessary to override the power control circuits to key the station. While this service mode is enabled, SSCB requests to key the transmitter will disregard and power control failure indications. To enable this mode, depress and hold the SELECT/SET switch in the SET position (display cursor should not be active at this time). While holding the SET switch, press and hold the PL DIS/XMIT switch in the XMIT position. When tSt appears in the Status display, release the SET switch first, and then the XMIT switch (station will key after the SET switch is released and until XMIT is released). While this mode is active, the DISABLE LED will flash. Toggle the RESET switch to take the station out of the Power Control Service Mode. The DISABLE LED should stop flashing. Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman n3...@... wrote: This station was working as a station before it went dead. In other words, no, it's not hacked up. Can anyone tell me for sure where the service jumper - JU1 is. I found 'a' JU1 on the SSCB board, but it seems relatively hidden for a service jumper. Also, when I move it's position I get an error on the LED display, then the station resets. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSF5k - No Tx
There are some trouble shooting charts... mostly in the PA section itself. For the Power Control, there is a block diagram with explanation notes on its operation. Send me the model number and other particulars via email and we can continue there. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman n3...@... wrote: Lee, Does your manual include a flowchart for Power control servicing? Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSF5k - No Tx
Hi Scott, Do you know if the power sense is hooked up/working? I seem to recall having this issue when trying to use a MSF5k with a non-MSF (Micor) PA. Without the forward/reflected power from a VSWR bridge being fed back into the MSF5k, I am pretty sure the shelf did what you describe. Its been a while since I played with one, but hopefully that gets you going in the right direction. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman n3...@... wrote: OK, It just may be because it's late on a Saturday night, but I am stumped. I have a UHF 100W secure capable MSF5000 that when I key the TX (doesn't matter how of the GOZILLION ways) the 'PA On', 'PA Key' and 'PA Full' LED's light for a split second and then I get no power out. I am testing into my service monitor, so high ref. power is not an issue. I realize that the power control is a loop and I could be chasing my tail trying to figure out which came first - the lack of power or the lack of drive. I read in earlier posts something about JU1 being a service jumper. JU1 in this station is a 3 position header. When I change positions on that jumper, the station doesn't boot properly, gives an error, then resets. I don't think I am looking at the correct JU1. The manual eludes to many troubleshooting charts that apparently aren't in my book. I think that there were MANY authors and they figured that someone else will write that. For those of you that know me and know what I do, I have never worked on anything this new. I'm used to the good ol' fashioned radios, where a strategically placed alligator lead fixed all your power-set ills. Even a look at page xx in the manual for a troubleshooting flowchart type message would be helpful. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor UHF Repeater Base 9.6 vdc current requirement?
Hey Skipp, Have a look here... http://www.bcfmca.bc.ca/rptvhfmods.html Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 skipp...@... wrote: Jeff DePolo jd0@ wrote: Mo's spec for the 9.6V supply is +/- 0.3V on station power supplies and +/- 0.5V for the regulator in Micor mobiles if I remember right. Looks good... I actually found the manual to the external power supply adapter I saw at a repeater site. Looks like the 9.6 Vdc regulator is inside the box and the results are supplied to the back plane through a/the Micor Mic Style Plug connection. The diagram for the adapter box also shows +13 Vdc is also routed to one of the pins in the same plug (as well as ground) so I have to figure out if that's a requirement or just an addition to the adapter package. I did see where +13 Vdc was supplied to another location on the repeater back-plane. I use LM7810's (10V 1A fixed regulator), with a 1A Schottky rectifier diode (1N5817 for example) in series with the output for a little voltage drop. Works for me as does a few of the other possible circuits others have mentioned (thank you very much). Regulator + diode + filter/bypass caps = less than $1, or knowing how big your junk box is Skipp, probably $0. That's probably the cheapest solution. The 2010 Politically Correct phrase for junk box parts is stuff I plan to use some day. I'll be fine as long as the camera crews from the TV Show Hoarders doesn't come out to the west coast. There are a lot of us in denial... which is not a river in Egypt. Heat-sink regulator to whatever's handy, tab on the regulator is ground as I'm sure you know... -- Jeff WN3A I'm thinking of something mounted right on the Repeater Back Plane so the leads are short and there's not a requirement for another box to take up rack space. thanks much, s.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor VHF 12W Amplifier??
Hi Tim, I hope you have a very large solar/battery plant if you are wanting to run a Micor off it... The Micor is by no means solar friendly. Hook one up and measure the standby current, then plug those numbers into a solar power budget calculator, and hang onto your wallet. :) You'd be better off trying to find yourself something like a Daniel's MT-2 type repeater that was designed for such service. They have MUCH less standby current requirements. Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tahrens301 tahr...@... wrote: Hi Folks, I've been looking into making a solar repeater (from the Micor repeaters that I already have on hand). Obviously the 100W or 60W amplifiers are out of the question, not only in power, but really in size. I noticed that there is some silkscreen on the transmitter interconnect board (in the big hole to the right of the exciter) that says 12WPA. Didn't know whether Mot actually had put a low power amplifier into the space or not. Anybody know? Thanks, Tim
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew L45N and L45Z
The newer L5PNF and L5PNF-RC (preferred) should also work for you, and are easier to install. If you can't find a Z-splice, you may want to round up a pair of 7/16 DIN connectors (ie L5PDF-RC and L5PDM-RC). They are pretty much mechanically just as strong as a Z-splice, but its much easier to install the two DIN connectors and screw them together, rather than dealing with the goofy Z-splice deal. The return loss is probably more stable using the DIN connector's too. Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, drwoolweaver k5...@... wrote: Does anyone have a source for the following connectors: L45NI need at least four L45ZOne will do These type of connectors fit the old style 7/8 inch heliax. Contact me at: drwoolwea...@... Thanks de David
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need supplier for UHF welded yagi
Yeah, plain 307's don't survive long in conditions like this, even with welded elements: http://www.tparc.org/dogmtn.html That's why all the yagi's are Sinclair 307RCHD, Scala, Comprod, or other similar designs. I've seen dipoles snapped off Sinclair 210C4HD's too due to ice on other sites, and not falling ice either, hard rime ice and wind causing metal fatigue. Also found a SRL249 one spring in the snow, with its .288 sched 40 mount pipe still attached... where it fractured off at the clamp that was holding it to the top of the tower. Explained why the IMTS channel fell off the air. :) Crazy stuff. :) Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey wb2...@... wrote: A Sinclair UHF yagi with broken elements? I saw one that got run over by a large truck - got a little bent up, but that's all. Chuck WB2EDV
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need supplier for UHF welded yagi
Sinclair makes decent antennas, but if you really want something to survive in a harsh environment, check out Comprod Communications. http://www.comprodcom.com/en/antennas/base/pdf/480-70.pdf They make antennas that survive nearly anything. Out here on the West Coast we routinely get lots of hard rime ice on coastal mountaintop sites, combined with 100mph+ sustained winds. Sinclair antennas get elements snapped off all the time (inherent design flaws, even on their HD antennas). The Comprod antennas keep on going. Regardless, stay away from Bluewave... they may look like a good antenna (and physically they are strong), but some of their models have water ingress problems which lead to antenna failure. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gran Clark k6...@... wrote: Chuck I will call Sinclair. They don't list a welded antenna. On the beam I have the elements are mounted on the outside of the boom which I would think would be hard to make a good weld if I went that way. Gran
[Repeater-Builder] Re: More on the Q2330 Duplexer
Yes, either the Q202G or the Q2330 will do what you want. Sinclair may have changed the spec sheet on the Q2330, but they haven't changed the construction, so if tuned properly, you should get plenty of isolation. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David Struebel wb2...@... wrote: With all of this discussion, is either the Q202 or its cousins or the new Q2330 all with now 80 dB of isolation good enough for a 2 meter repeater with a 0.6 MHz split? Putting a new machine on the air and need to know if I should go with a 6 cavity duplexer to give me the 100 or so dB isolation, and albeit the higher insertion loss or can I stay with a 4 can duplexer with typically 85 dB isolation and 1.5 dB insertion loss? In a quandry... most of my experience is with a Sinclair hybrid ring duplexer which seems to work fine at a 25 watt level. 73 Dave WB2FTX
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E
Actually, the comment below isn't quite true. The Q2220E is a Res-Lok duplexer, but there are no machined coupling ports between the cavities. I just took the loops out of one to confirm. The coupling between the cavities is a function of the pickup loop inside the cavity, and the coax between them. However, in the C2034 type Res-Lok combiners, there ARE coupling ports machined between the bandpass section cavities (confirmed that too). Of interesting note on the Q2220E, the docs from Sincliar show two different harnesses available, presumably one for high split, and one for low. I have two Q2220E's here, one factory 143/148 and the other 152/157. They both have the same harness on them (320mm inter-cavity of RG400), and the pickup loops are the same size too (110mm). If you run the numbers for 320mm and a velocity factor of 0.695, you get a center frequency for the harness of 163MHz. If you wanted to optimize the tuning for the best response in the ham band, you may want to consider re-building the harness and changing the inter-cavity lengths to 355mm. I wouldn't change the lengths of the pickup loops as that is going to significantly change the response. Also note, the Q2220E makes a good candidate to modify for 220MHz... just ask Dave Cameron... http://www.irlp.net/duplexer Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Part of the problem is that the Q2220E duplexer uses the Res-Lok design, wherein the coupling between cavities of each pair is via a machined port between them, rather than a cabled coupling loop that can be adjusted.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Split site link via IP
No, you're not off your rocker. :) There already exist off-the-shelf commercial boxes that do what you are looking for. One is made by Omnitronics www.omnitronics.com.au and is their IPR100. You'll need one at each end, and they are in the $1k range per box. Raytheon also makes a similar product, the NXU-2A, www.raytheon.com/capabilities/products/nxu_2a/. Its reported to work very well. Not sure on pricing on it. I too would like to find a simple open-source solution too. Don't need any fancy options, just transport 4-wire EM point to point with good audio quality. The hardware to do IP linking is a lot cheaper than traditional UHF links these days. Please share what you find. Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ethercrash n4bwp...@... wrote: My repeater group is considering building split-site 6m machine. As an inter-site link, I was thinking of using some sort of VOIP arrangement via the internet. I'm curious if anyone has tried something like this: My idea is to use a point-to-point, private link (i.e. not IRLP or Echo) to pump audio and maybe even some signaling between sites. The receive site would consist of the receive radio, controller (most likely an Arcom), and a PC to do the encoding/streaming. The transmit site would consist of a PC to decode the audio stream, a PL decoder for TX logic, and the TX radio. The basic premise would be to take audio from the RX (PL filtered), fed thru the controller, mixed with link PL, and fed to the PC's audio input. The PC then streams the audio over the internet to the RX site PC, where it is decoded and fed to the TX radio, which will be keyed by a PL decoder (provided the IP encode/decode process hasn't mangled the PL). Whew... Now, question is: will it work? Or more properly, has anyone made this work? I'm going to try it on a small scale just to prove concept, but I'm curious if anyone has tried this already. My intention is to use something along the lines of Winamp with Shoutcast or Windows Media Encoder to stream the audio. I'd rather find a Linux-based CLI encoder if such an animal exists. I had thought about using IRLP nodes as endpoints, but IRLP policy would preclude that. Thoughts? Encouragement? FTW is he THINKING?!?! ;) I'd be interested in the group's thoughts, and I'll report the results of my experiments. Thanks 73, Brian, N4BWP
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Radio Over Internet Protocol (ROIP) Interface
The IPR100 is just about $1k (CAN/US). I just got a couple to demo, and that's the pricing I was quoted. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rodney Baker wrote: Have a look at http://www.omnitronics.com.au/RadiooverIP.html I've used these and they work well. What price range are they in, generally? Nate WY0X
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 9.6v power?
If you look in the File section, there is a pdf called 12Vmicor. It is a short write-up on what I am using to make my Micor's run off 12V direct. No reason why it shouldn't work for the MSR2000 too... just need to find a convenient place to mount the LM317. Use the standard circuit found in the data sheets, plug in the values I used, or calculate your own, and you're set. Just built another one the other night. :) Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm in the process of converting a number of MSR-2000 repeaters over to using switching power supplies (I'm paying the electric bill). I've asked one or two people who have already completed the task and they reportedly used adjustable 3-terminal regulators on well heat sinked mounts for the 9.6 vdc supply. s. George Henry ka3hsw@ wrote: Since I have not yet succeeded in getting my hands on the MSR2000 manuals, does anyone know offhand what the current draw is on the 9.6 volt supply? Looking to build my own... Thanks in advance! George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Micor 12 Volt Power Supply
Hi Joe, As Jesse noted, you can eliminate the Micor power supply all together, if you are running it off an existing 12V DC plant. I have just uploaded a file in the files section (12vmicor.pdf) that details the mod that I have used on my stations. It uses an LM317 regulator, a couple resistors to set the output voltage to 9.6VDC, and a couple filter caps. I mount it just behind the AS board in the chassis, to give the LM317 a nice heatsink. USE AN INSULATOR BETWEEN THE LM317 AND CHASSIS. A couple jumpers on the backplane, and you're all set to feed it 12V from your plant. Feed the PA directly from your plant, and it will be happy. I have used this mod on VHF and UHF stations... just check the manual and make sure that the connections are same (there are a number of backplanes out there in the field). Cheers! Lee VE7FET --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, I am in need of a Micor power supply to run a station off of a 12 Volt battery bank. If anybody has one or two that they want to part with, please email me off list. Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual battery system
Hi Ian, I look after a number of solar powered, mountain-top repeater sites. Reduce the number of points of failure. Use panels in your array with the same capacity, parallel them together. With most panels this is easily done right on the back with short jumpers. Run the output of the array to a junction box near the array and connect it to a significantly larger gauge wire to run to wherever the equipment is. Regardless, try and keep the run as short as possible to minimize voltage drop. Put in the biggest wire you can afford. Use batteries of same capacity and parallel them together. It is VERY rare that you have a battery fail that takes out the whole plant. Keep it simple. No diodes, switches, etc. Run it all through a suitably rated solar controller. PWM models are the most efficient. Moringstar makes some very well built units. Most models have built in low voltage disconnect (LVD) that you can use, if you choose. They generally disconnect at a fairly low voltage (like 10.5V), and re-close when the battery has re-charged some, and the voltage has started to recover. It all done with FET's... no relays to fail. You can also just put the equipment right across the battery plant (suitably fused), if you want to get the most run-time possible. But with this approach, you do risk damage to the battery plant if you have a deep discharge where your solar plant can't keep up. If you're not using low power radios designed for this application, you're going to probably run into trouble... get all the numbers for current consumption and expected duty cycle, and plug it into one of the many calculators on the internet to get an idea of the size of the battery plant and solar array capacity that you'll need. You'll be surprised how quickly the numbers get big. I will tell you from experience (just tinkering) that a 50W panel, with 400AH of battery plant is not enough to keep even a Motorola Maxtrac alive through the winter on an APRS digi in a moderate coastal climate. Our mountain-top sites are generally two 4W TX (UHF and VHF) and two RX (UHF and VHF), its a VHF repeater with a UHF backhaul. The transmitters typically draw about 2A each when transmitting. The receivers around 100mA each. When not transmitting, the TX power right down, and the current consumption of the RX drop to about 80mA each. The solar plant is typically 100W+ (depends on duty cycle), and the battery plant is generally in excess of 1500AH (again, depends on duty cycle and number of days of designed autonomy). Run the numbers, and figure out what you're going to need to make it all work. There are a number of good sites on the internet for figuring out the average hours of sunlight for a particular location, as well as proper angles to set the panels at, depending on latitude. Check them out. Cheers! Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kerincom [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Two 80 watt panels parallel supplying the two regulators which then charge the 2 batteries separately .The idea I am working with is not to use the two batteries in parallel in case one goes flat and takes the second out but to either with the first part to reduce the current draw on The batteries by separating the TX and rx power sources or to have a main and backup battery incase the main goes flat Thank You, Ian Wells, Kerinvale Comaudio, 361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715 Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932 www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au ---Original Message--- From: skipp025 Date: 2/08/2008 12:18:39 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dual battery system Hi Ian, The first questions I would want to ask you are ... Are you supplying the charging energy to each charge controller from the same or different solar arrays? Why the two solar chargers versus one solar charger? Is your array made of mixed type/capacity panels? skipp Kerincom kerincom@ wrote: Hi guys .I am wondering if anyone knows of good pages on dual batteries systems and comments on which of following questions is better I am wondering if having two batteries .one for the receiver and one for the TX each with its own solar regulator or A system where two batteries are charged by two separate regulators and the TX and rx run off one battery and when extended no solar period happens the repeater is switched to the second battery when the main drains below 10 or 11v and returned to the main when it charges back up Thank You, Ian Wells, Kerinvale Comaudio, 361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715 Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932 www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
[Repeater-Builder] Re:Anyone familiar with the LDG RVS-8 Voting system?
That's not true Michel... per the manual: They type of audio used from the receivers can be just about any type as long as all of the receivers use the same audio. Audio types that are acceptable are line level and speaker audio. Also, it does not matter if the audio is de-emphasized or not as long as all of the receivers are the same. It goes on to mention that audio response is the biggest challenge, try and get the audio response the same on all channels for best performance. http://www.ldgelectronics.com/manuals/RVS-8Manual.pdf Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, VA2MAA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello Tyler, I am pretty sure the voter require discriminator (flat RX), in order to evaluate the SNR correctly. Using pin 11 on Maxtrac is fine but make sure you change JU551 to the A position. (see http://batlabs.com/maxrad.html 9600 baud packet conversion) You will probably have to de-emphase the audio signal out of the voter, to feed your TX, unless you have a flat TX input available. 73, VA2MAA
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Yeah, EIA or F flanges are an option, but a cheaper alternative would be DIN connectors. They are very common (low price point) as they are very common in the Cell/PCS world these days. Probably about the same price as N connectors. The return loss through a DIN connector splice is comparable to a L45Z (Z-splice), and MUCH easier to put together (Z-splices are a pain). Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ralph Messer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wayne If you use the N male female splice you might want to look at how much flexing the cable will get. If this cable is 7/8 inch then the flex on the joint can be catastrophic, especially if it is somewhere on a tower. I would suggest a pair of EIA flanges to make a good mechanically strong splice. Andrew part numbers are L45R Ralph
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Telewave or Sinclair?
Sinclair is still pretty good... not as good as they used to be. You might also want to look at Comprod antennas. http://www.comprodcom.com/en/antennas/base/pdf/870series.pdf They make some very good products that stand up in environments that shred Sinclair's. Lee --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The landlord is installing a new tower about 150ft away from the existing tower at one of our sites. We have a remote receiver and backup 2M repeater located there. We're thinking it is wise to replace the 16 year old Diamond F23 with this move to the new tower. Our timeframe is 2-4 weeks max to acquire a new quality antenna. I know that this topic comes up often, but times and antennas change. I'm comparing a Telewave 150D3 and Sinclair SD212. If possible I want recent experience and opinions about these two models and brands. The antenna needs to be suitable for duplex work. Thanks all. Laryn K8TVZ
[Repeater-Builder] Plotting Audio Frequency Response
Ok, I've looked high and low... and come up short. I am curious to see just how good/bad the audio frequency response of my repeaters are. The problem is that I can't figure out a good way to go about doing it. I'm looking for information on how and what to use to check/plot the audio response through the repeater. I would also like some info on plotting the audio response independently of receivers and transmitters. A nice swept response plot is desired... I don't really want to plot it manually. :) The rest of the system is quite happy... so I figure it is time to punish myself and start tweaking the audio side to make them sound their best. Unfortunately, the audio side is something I know little about. Your help is appreciated. Thanks, Lee Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
