[Spits] Problems?
After sending my reply I received this message. And No I did not request to be removed. Is this why the list has ben almost non existent? Tod " Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Spitfires We have received a request from 69.143.71.108 for the removal of your email address, " todjo...@comcast.net mailto:todjo...@comcast.net " from the spitfires@autox.team.net mailto:spitfires@autox.team.net mailing list. To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping the Subject: header intact. Or visit this web page: "___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Test Message
I haven't hardly seen anything lately. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spit > On March 16, 2020 at 7:27 AM Alex & Janet Thomson > wrote: > > > I haven’t seen much, if any, traffic recently. > > > > Alex Thomson > > ___ > > Spitfires@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/todjo...@comcast.net > ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Haynes manual wiring diagram
The best ressource on the net is. http://www.triumphspitfire.com/ And for his wiring digram look here. http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html I used to work at a Triumph restoration buisiness and these are the best wiring diagrams around. We even had them blown up to put on the walls. This site even has parts interchangability lists. Tod Jones 57 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA - Original Message - From: BJ8 Healeys sby...@ec.rr.com To: spitfires@autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 3:42 PM Subject: [Spits] Haynes manual wiring diagram Hello, Spitfire Pilots - I'm not a Spitfire owner and usually hang out in the Austin-Healey world, but am posting this question to help a friend who does own a '79 Spit but is not on the list. He has the Haynes manual for 1962 - 1981 Spitfires. On page 266 is Fig. 10.66, the wiring diagram applicable to North American LHD 1500s from commission number FM95001. Can anyone help us interpret some of the symbols on this diagram? There doesn't appear to be a definition of them in the manual. Specifically, the symbols are circles. Some are open circles, some are split by a line into two halves, some are split by crosses into quarters, some have one half blackened or two oppposite quarters blackened. Thanks for the help! Steve Byers Havelock, NC ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Help please: ignition
Your balast wire might be bad or disconnected.when you first turn the key the ballast resistor is bypassed giving your coil 12 volts to make starting easier. Then when you turn the key to the run position the ballast wire is used droping the voltage to 6 volts. If the ballast wire is bad or has bad connections it will not run. Check out http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/76diagram.jpg in this wireing diagram it shows a pink wire with a white tracer as the ballast wire. This would be the first place to look. Tod Jones 67 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA. - Original Message - From: Nick Moseley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; spitfires@autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 8:04 PM Subject: [Spits] Help please: ignition I'm trying to start my project engine, but I have no spark at the plugs. I have full voltage at battery. With ignition key turned to run position, there are 12 volts at the coil. I've tried two coils, and get the same response: which is one spark when I first turn the key to Start, then no more sparks. Any suggestions? I'm at the point where I might try an electronic ignition dizzy, because this points version has got me beat. Other pertinent info is that this is a 76 1500, newly rebuilt, and this is the first start. Would this be the symptom if I had the timing gear out by 180 degrees? Might it be a bad condenser? Should I try rotating the plug wires on the dizzy? (ie. Move #1 to where #3 was located, and 3 to where 4 was, etc) Many Thanks Nick Moseley, NASS #278, 76-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit
Vicky Brit has decent sheetmetal replacement parts. I have also used spitbits with good results. Both use BMHIT stampings. Others might be good also YMMV. Whenever you are looking for help give your location. Someone might be close enough to help. i have a welder and have ben known to help for food or to see a Spitfire brought back to life. A welder is something that is indespensable when you need it but gets in the way the rest of the time. Renting one is another another option. Tod Jones 67 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA - Original Message - From: Mike Vasquez [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: spitfires@autox.team.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 2:39 PM Subject: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit I'm beginning an inventory and review of the '64 spit I recently purchased. In my excitement to purchase, I somehow missed the PO's replacement of a floor pan with well, I'm not sure quite what it was. I'd like your recommendations on: 1) Good source for replacement rocker panels (driver/passenger) and floor pans (driver, pedal area bad, seat area OK) 2) Either a) replacement dash or b) someone willing to give me measurements for their dash/pattern/etc. I'm considering fabricating my own, but want to see what's out there as well. Luckily, I *do* have all the gauges for the car, they came this week, the PO found them. Phew!!! 3) Finally: I'm looking for affordable welding equipment to replace these body parts. I haven't welded before. I'd like minimum equipment recommendations that would do the job. (I have access to free courses at my local community college if I can't figure it out myself...) Thanks! Mike 1964 Spitfire 4 (Mk 1) FC24119 http://www.MeantToBeDriven.com ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Hub Puller
Where are you located? I have one you can borrow in Harrisonburg Va. If you are in the area I can help you with it' Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spit-6 - Original Message - From: Henry Stike [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Spitfire Mailing List spitfires@autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:17 AM Subject: [Spits] Hub Puller ok, who has the directions to make a hub puller for 76~79 spitfire. the day has come LOL... know we have read about it but hoped this day wouldn't come... LOL.. bearings shot ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spit] Factory Hardtop
A friend and I restored our hardtops together using all of the same materials. I installed Dynamat isulation material and he didn't. It made a big difference in the sound it made. you could tap on his and it sounded like a bell, mine sounded like a dull solid thump. It made a huge difference in the amount of noise going down the road also. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA 67 Spit-6 4: Consider putting some sort of insulation on the underside of the roof sheet metal. But be sure it will not sag and touch the fabric. I used this heavy, foil-coated self-stick foam about 1/8 thick that is sold in places like Home Depot for insulating hot water pipes and ductwork. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Transmission removal project.
Including the time spent telling my son in law how we were going to remove the transmission it only took 45 minutes. I f I remember right Paul Telger's site has some good instructions on it, but basically here it is. 1) Disconnect the battery. 2) Remove the passenger side glove box. 3) Remove the radio and center support. 4) Remove the transmission tunnel. 5) Unbolt the driveshaft /propshaft (depending on which side of the pond you are). 6) Disconnect the slave cylender from the transmission and move it out of the way. 7) Remove the starter. 8) Jack up and support the engine. 9) Unbolt the transmission mount. 10) Put a cheap between the transmission and the floorpan. 11) Remove all of the bolts holding the transmission to the motor. 12) Pull back on transmission to disconnect it from the engine. 13) Drag the transmission out of the car on the tarp to keep the interior clean. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tod Jones 67 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA. An so begun has the great winter project of removing the transmission. I've completed 2 days of work, and still the thing isn't out. Ugh Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: NASS GT6 driveshaft out of phase? now Rotoflex rear hub bearings
There is still noise and vibration that appears to be coming from BOTH (!) rear hubs on the GT6+. Darn. Any tricks of the trade, shortcuts or other tips for replacing the bearings? Yes the best trickof the trade is to belong to a club that can help you. You allready have that. ;) Just ask! a lot of people have the special tool you need to remove the hubs and wont mind helping. Where are you located? If it is anywhere near Harrisonburg VA. I have the tool and will help. Whatever you doo do not try this without the tool, you will destroy the hub. The tool costs less than the hub so don't try it without it. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA, 67 Spit-6 Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Joe Hash's Triumph, Ltd.
I worked for Joe for 5 years. He quit doing repairs for health reasons. I have also heard about Mike Gassman and his shop. A lot of the customers at Joe's shop used to go to Mike's but they didn't like the way he treated people. From some of the stories I've heard I wouldn't deal with him unless I had no other choice. For body work I would take it to the man that took over Joe's shop Kennith Coe. Iv'e seen Kenny do great work with sheet metal, he really knows his craft. for mechanical work he can either do it or reccomend someone who can. The contact information for Kenny is, Dreamweaver Customs 540 280-8079 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Good luck. Tod Jones Harrisonburg Va 67 Spit-6 Anybody know what happened to Joe Hash's Triumph, Ltd, in Grottoes, VA (near Harrisonburg??)? Last I heard, he was a well-respected Triumph shop doing good work, but seems to have vanished Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: Hub to flange spacing
When you put the Hub on you need to put it on just far enough to get the flange on and the nut started. The flange has a collar that extends through the seal and against the bearing this pushes the hub to the proper position. When you tork the flange down it will seat onto the taper and stop. The oil flinger should be against the hub to protect the inner bearing. If it is on too far it is only sheet metal and can be easily put back into position. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA 67 Spit-6 *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: setting timing, carb settings and a non-running Spit
Are the pumps to specifically avoid? I bought a small square universal one and mounted it underneath beside the gas tank. It is so loud at idle you can hear it over the Monza exhaust. Tod Jones 67 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: 79 Spit Interior Windshield frame Vinyl Coating?
I tried the thin vinyl from a fabric store and it didn't last too long. It would be better to go to an automotive upholstery shop and get a piece of automotive vinyl. Automotive vinyl will stand up to the wear and tear a lot better and still look great and doesn't cost too much more. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spit-6 *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Clutch-ing at Straws
I have seen this happen when someone put the clutch disk in backward. The springs hit against the flywheel bolts and eventually broke the disk. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spit-6 So why would a clutch go so quickly? Something else must be bad to make the thing break... *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
FW: restoration shops
Try http://www.joehashstriumphltd.com/defaultdex.asp Wish I could say NFI but I work there part time. I have a real job that pays the bills but I work here to support my car habit. ;) Pictures of my car are on this site in the gallery. It is in the gallery section as a 1967 spitfire Mk II before the latest paint job and unlisted after in the lower right corner in the gallery section. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 spit-6 Subject: restoration shops Trying to help a friend find a restoration shop for his MGB. I recall seeing a pretty nice website for a shop in, I think, Harrisonburg, VA area. Anyone know that shop or can recommend another in VA/MD/WV/NC? Car is currently in Va Beach, so it can be towed to any of these states. But I'm really curious about this shop that I've seen - bugs me that I can't find the website again. Thanks, George P. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: 1An old member returns to the list
1. Why is oil spraying out of the bolt hole and how do I get a new bolt in without pulling out the engine? Will this even fix this problem? If you look on page 56 in your Haynes manual at pictures 23.12a 23.12b you will see that the front bolts go into the sealing block. The sealing block forms a bridge over the front main bearing and is made out of a soft metal. All of the oil lubricating the timing chain and gears has to flow over this sealing block to get back into the engine. You can pull off the oil pan and the bottom 2 bolts in the timing chain cover and remove it on the car. You can then buy a kit or take it to your local machine shop and have them install a helicoil to repair the threads. While you have it out check that it is still straight. This should fix the problem. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA 67 Spit-6 *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Winterizing your Triumph
That is why they made hard tops and snow tires ;) Mine is a daily driver so it gets driven all year. If the roads get too bad don't drive. Or drive the TSV. Tod Jones 67 Spit-6 Harrisonburg VA *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
spitfire GT6 Magazine
Has anyone else noticed the comparison in SPITFIRE GT6 magazine between a Triumph Spitfire 1500 and a SUBMARINE Spitfire MKXVIII? ;) Tod Jones 67 Spit/6 Harrisonburg VA. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
RE: tough assigment
Friday I had a phone call from a grade school class mate, he understood that I had some antique cars and he has one he bought brand new he wants to get rid of, been stored for over 20 years, he has no idea what or if anything is wrong with it, just wants to make sure it goes to a good home, I doubt it has any value something called a 68 Mustang Convertible V-8 with auto P/S, guess I will go have a look, the price is sure right FREE:) :) FT Ouch! That must hurt. ;) /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
RE: Paint Thinning
Always check the product sheet that is supplied by the supplier. Most automotive paint now days needs an activator and reducer in proper proportions or it won't cure correctly. If you mix too much it will be a solid lump within 24 hours. Modern paint doesn't dry, it cures. Also be sure to ask for a mixing cup, it will be marked with the proper ratios. Tod Jones Harrisonburg Va. 67 Spitfire Mk II -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 2:45 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Paint Thinning Fellow Listers; Does anyone have an idea on what ratio to thin automotive paint? I recently purchased a quart of BRG for my '78 Spit and I need to shoot some patchwork I did in the trunk area. Does 1:1 (vol/vol) paint/reducer work, or should I shoot for thinner than that?? Thanks, Matt Milkevitch /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Electric Fuel Pumps
I bought a solid state fuel pump at advance auto for under $30 and a pressure regulator for under $20. the fuel pump I mounted under the right rear by the tire well. the regulator I have mounted in the engine compartment where it can easily be adjusted. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA 67 Spitfire Mk II - Original Message - From: Daniel Parrott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 6:13 AM Subject: Electric Fuel Pumps I'm considering getting a electric fuel pump and pressure regulator pump for my 1980 Spit, but have been unable to find a fuel pump for sale in VB or SpitBits. Moss Motors has a couple for sale, including a solid-state model for $90. What's the consensus on the need for such a set up (along with a direct crankcase venting system) for weekend driving? Where's the best place to purchase? Best place to install? Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Spitfire PJ /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Spitfire 4-Speed Tranny needed
One place to try in northern Virginia is. Joe Hashes Triumph LTD. 370 Hash Ln. Grottoes VA. 24441 (5400 249-4950 [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.joehashstriumphltd.com/defaultdex.asp Joe is a great guy to deal with. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spitfire Mk II - Original Message - From: Matthew Milkevitch [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 9:38 AM Subject: Spitfire 4-Speed Tranny needed Hello Listers; Would any lister local to me have a decent Spitfire 4-speed they would be willing to part with? I need a spare for my '78 Spit project. I live in the Philadelphia PA Metro area (Willow Grove to be exact). I have a lead on two but they are located in Missouri, and I imagine shipping from there will be pricey. Please contact me off list should you have an available unit. Regards, Matt Milkevitch /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Weather
If you want snow come to Harrisonburg VA. We are up to 22 inches according to the weather report this morning. Tod Jones 67 Spitfire Mk II Harrisonburg VA. - Original Message - From: John T. Blair [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 6:16 PM Subject: Weather Well I wish I had the weather that Jeff is having in San Diego. I wanted to try and get some primer on my Bricklin. Also have some sanding to do, but need to be outside. Unfortunately, the weather isn't cooperating. Unlike most of the East Coast, we here in south east VA (Virginia Beach) haven't gotten any snow :( What we have had is lots of wind, temps just above freezine, and some rain. With tomorrow being a fed. holliday, we'd like to see the snow start sometime around 8pm tomorrow night and get about 12. Then we'd end up with at least a 4 if not 5 day weekend. :) But it doesn't look like that's going to happen. So far, this has been a pretty cold winter, but very little snow in this corner of the state. But we still have almost 2 months let to get a good snow. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR180048 #4 Midget65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)77 Spitfire71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan:www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: 1/8 Scale Spitfire
I bought 2 at big lots for the same price. They are the same. I had never noticed. :) Tod Jones Harrisonburg Va 67 Spitfire Mk II - Original Message - From: Scott A. Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:11 PM Subject: 1/8 Scale Spitfire Hi Guys- I just was at a local auto parts store(the competition) and they had a few 1/8 scale metal cars on clearance- $9.99, so I bought two- the last Miata(for my sister) and the last Spitfire- a 70 MkIV in BRG. I was just enjoying the detailing in this one, H1041 from Chrono when I noticed one small, but really wrong detail- The horn button emblem. I had thought that it had been changed from a Triumph Truncated dragon wings late in the 60's to the word Triumph. Regardless, they had that badge, but wholly inverted in the middle of the wheel! It does not appear to be a decal, rather airbrushed on. Beautifully done(well, for the price) but upside down. And, they included an antenna on the left rear wing- but no radio decal on the dash support! Obviously they detailed this model from a restoration in progress...lol They hadn't found a radio for it! Does anyone else have this model, with these issues? I always seem to get the screwed up items. I guess that is because I think they're special because of it...lol Scott proud new owner of a 1970 MkIV(1/8 scale) 1964 Herald 1200 Convertible (1/1 scale) /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: 1300 block
A friend who races spitfires told me how to tell a 1300 block from a 1500 block. He told me to rub my hand down the side of the block castng and feel for bulges. He said If it is smooth it is a 1300 or earlier block, if it has bulges it is a 1500. The bulges are fore crank clearence. If you try it check crank clearances closely. Tod Jones Harrisonburg Va. 67 spit Mk II - Original Message - From: Larry Vaughan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2002 4:23 PM Subject: 1300 block Has anyone cut the notches in the base of the cylinders and used the 1500 crank in the 1300 block? Larry /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Alternator Test
Around here most parts supply places and battery stores will do a free electrical system check. They check everything on the car while it is running. Check around you might have some luck on your side of the pond. Tod Jones 67 Spit Mk II Harrisonburg VA Hi all, I was advising another lister about testing his alternator, but I have forgotten how to do it, and I cant find the post that I originally got the info from, can someone put me right on how to do it please. I know I need 14.5 volts and I have a digital voltmeter. Other than that? Happy Spitting...John (in the United Kingdom) Spit Mk II (1966) in bits..or as some would say (in restoration) Spit Mk III donor car ( I am nearly a collector) Mk IV chassis with all running gear...(I AM a collector) /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Good battery choice?
Unlikely to want to start it in sub-zero temperatures? Come on now ;) My Chevy full size conversion van with a 350 small block uses the same battery. Yes I have it in my spitfire also. Tod Jones 67 spit Mk II - Original Message - From: Douglas Braun [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Dave Willner [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Spitfires Autox. Team. Net(E-mail) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:53 PM Subject: Re: Good battery choice? I know for a fact that Sears has the wrong battery listed in their computer. I have had a WalMart EverStart battery for about 2.5 years, and it has fit and worked just fine. And it was only $39.95! I got it based on a recommendation form Consumer Reports. It is about 7x7x9 in size, and it has top terminals and size terminals (which are out of sight facing rearward when installed in the Spit). I do not see any size code on it, but it has a part number: DT-3. Given that a Spit has a small engine, and you are unlikely to want to start it in sub-zero temperatures, I see no reason to spend lots of money for a super-premium battery. Doug Braun At 05:44 PM 12/6/02 -0500, Dave Willner wrote: Stopped at Sears on the way home from work today and picked up a Gold Die Hard for the Spit (yea, it fits all of 'em), the 'circa 93 Champion would't hold a charge. Well, it's about 3 taller than the old Champion and doesn't fit at all. Any good, economical choices out there I should look at that are known to fit? TIA Dave Willner 59 TR3A Apple Green 80 Spitfire Carmine Red /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Color codes was, Re:
Any solid green wire will work. Solid green is on and fuzed when the car is running. British cars all use the same color code. I saw somewhere on the net the complete color codes but lost the link. It was verry helpfull in tracing down problems. Ex. Brown - allways hot Purple - fuzed, allways hot Red - parking and marker lamps Red/White - Instument lamps Blue - headlights Blue/red - headlights, low beam Blue/white - headlights, high beam White - on while car is running, non fuzed Green - on while car is running, fuzed White/pink - radio White/red - starter solenoid Purple/black - Horn Lt Green - stabilised voltage (gauges) (Was Lt Green/green on early cars) Green/white - Right turn signals Green/red - left turn signals Green/brown - reverse lamps Green/purple - brake lamps Black - ground Hope this helps. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spitfire Mk II Listers, What power sources should I connect my shiney new voltmeter gauge to? The instruction leaflet says a switched accessory line in the vehicle fuse block whatever that means James 1977 Pimento Red Spit (spending the night on axle stands, having run out of daylight to finish putting in the new rear spring) /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Glazer for hardtop window needed
I just used the reproduction windshield seal from victoria british. it is the right profile for the early rear hardtop window. and of corse the plastic finish strip and clip are needed there too. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 57 Spit Mk II Hi Bill et all What about the availability of the metal chromed strip that fits into the hard top rear glass seal on early Spitfires . I have located an original metal hard top with rear glass and all associated bits for my Mk 1 . Just need to locate the original glass rubber seal and chromed metal finisher . Was also lucky enough to find the original chromed metal finisher for the front windshield rubber seal . Ok , it took a couple of years to locate it . Yeah , I know I'm behind in list e mail , but I've just returned to the office after being away on business for a couple of months . Should hopefully have the next 3 days in front of the computer . Kind regards . Chris de Wet . PO Box 472 , Ifafi , 0260 , South Africa . Cell 0839989744 , Office 012-3398071 Daily drivers and continuous restoration projects : 1956 TR 3 . Commission no. TS 10795 1964 Spitfire 4 Mk 1 . Commission no. FC 25680 1967 GT 6 Mk 1 . Commission no. KC 52713 O /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Clutch master spring
If you are using regular dot 3 or 4 fluid that could be your problem. Regular american brake fluid has a tendancy to disolve the rubber seals in brittish cars. Try flushing out your hydraulics with castrol fluid after your rebuild. castrol fluid will not disolve your seals. I work in a small shop and whenever we see black gritty fluid in someones hydraulics we ask them what kind of fluid they use. Invariably they answer regular dot3 fluid, not castrol. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spitfire Mk II - Original Message - From: Luke Lewis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Spit List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 7:55 AM Subject: Clutch master spring Greetings all, After a GREAT summer as my daily driver (With a total of just 5 or 6 days with the top up), old Fireball has finally let me down. The spring inside the clutch master cylinder grenaded on me this past week, leaving the clutch ALMOST completely inoperative. The symptoms and evidence led me to believe that maybe a contaminant had managed to get into the clutch hydraulics (The fluif was dark and had an odd grit in it, plus the top seal has shrunk and warped a bit) and made the main seal swell and jam up in the bore (The piston wasn't coming all the way out, leaving about 1/2 of actual clutch action wy down at the end of the travel) but when I took 'er apart I found four pieces of spring in there, where there used to be one nice springy spring. So, does anyone know of a source for this oddball piece? I would really rather avoid getting a whole new master cylinder (Or taking the one off the other car) for want of one little spring! Luke /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Welding
Use low amp setting and stitch weld around the piece. it also helps to use a strip of copper behind where you are welding. the copper supports the weld without sticking and acts as a heat sink so you dont blow through. Your local welding supply shop might even carry a tool made for this it is just a piece of thick copper strip with a handle to make holding the hot copper easier. Using this method you can weld paper thin sheet metal. Tod Jones Harrisonburg Va 67 Spit Mk II /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Rear Springs
I'm using a complete 1500 driveline in my mk II Spitfire. I kept the complete driveline together for many reasons. I used the bigger engine and full syncro gearbox for more tourque. I used the diff because of the better gear ratio, and the rear axles for the wider track. I also used the swing spring for better handling along with the larger front roll bar. If you put the swing spring on the Mk II diff remember to plug the middle 2 mounting holes first or the oil can come out thruogh them. When you have the front roll bar off check it for twist. it is quick and easy to do, just lay it on a flat surface and check the height of the ends. My Mk II one was twisted so bad one end was 3 inches higher than the other. Tod Jones 67 Spit Mk II Harrisonburg VA. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 4:15 AM Subject: Rear Springs Hi listers, I recently posted an email asking about rear springs and I missed out a vital point. The point being is that I wish to use the MkIV spring which I believe is a swing spring set-up (5 leaf) and put it on my MkII. Are there any problems with doing this ?. .and thanks to Fred for his comments about not being able to use the 7 leaf spring from my MK II onto the Mk IV. Unfortunately the MK IV is too far gone to be of any use so I have just retained the engine and gearbox and other bits and pieces. I am basically rebuilding the Mk II. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: 77-68 Top
Yes and no. When i rebuilt my 67 MkII I put a 78 1500 top on it but during the rebuild I used the 1500 body tub and changed the outer metal to the roundtail bodylines. by doing it this way I had the mounting plates for the top. I also had to change the side windows to the square backed type instead of round. It didnt fold down all the way but it did let me drive the Spitfire for about 6 months while I located the proper soft top and frame. to see what it looked like then check out my website. I have ben neglecting the website so the old pictures are still on it. On a Mk 3 you might just have to change the windows. Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA 67 Spitfire Mk II http://home.rica.net/todjones/index.htm - Original Message - From: Kirk Crawford [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Joe Curry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 1:52 PM Subject: 77-68 Top What do you guys think about the convertible top? Will the 77 top work on a 68 Mk III with minor modifications? My Mk III has no convertible top. I just have a fiberglass hard top that I remove. I have an old frame from a Mk II I think, the one you put in the tubes and completely remove when you take it down. I never installed it. This one on the 77 folds down. -Kirk /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Help! Confusion wiring GT6 ignition switch
Check out this site http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html It has a wiring diagram for a 75, 76 78 spitfire but the ignition switch is basicaly the same in the GT6, it will show you where everything goes. It is one of the easyest to understand that I've found. Tom O'Malley did a great job on these. Good luck. Tod Jones Harrisonburg Va 67 Spit Mk II It's time to put the steering column back in, and I can't sort out what goes where, ignition switch-wise. The Bentley says this: white/red to terminal 1 brown to terminal 2 white to terminal 3 white/pink to terminal 5 Wish it were that simple! First of all, my switch also has a terminal 4 and a terminal 6. OK, maybe they're unused. Wish the book would say! But more important, I have six wires and seven spade connectors to sort out. They are: white, heavy gauge white, 2 wires sharing one connector brown, with two connectors- one at the end, another about 2 upstream white/red white/pink brown/red Can anyone tell me which white the Bentley means goes to terminal 3, and what the heck does the brown/red one go? thanks a lot! -- Douglas FrankCompaq Computer Corp. ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. The older I get, 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 the better I was. /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: speaker installation
I have a 45 watt per channel (x 4) sterio. 2-6 x 9 150 watt capable speakers in standard 6x9 boxes on the back shelf and 2-5 1/2 120 watt capable speakers in the front glove boxes in coustom built boxes. At highway speeds 55-70 mph I have to have the radio up to 20-25 (30 max) just to hear it. I have pacesetter headers and monza exaust. I might be loosing my hearing but d*** ZZtop sounds great! Lots of thums up and enjoyment. ;-) Tod Jones Harrisonburg VA. 67 Spit Mk II /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
