[VAC] Re: AC/DC question
Rob, There COULD be damage to 12VDC components, especially something like a radio, but it really shouldn't happen. Jim Rob Super wrote: I hath this question, which is purely academic at this point (i.e., I've not had a problem): The chassis is part of the DC circuit (path back to battery). The chassis is also part of the AC circuit in that the ground wires are connected to it. (When connected to shore power ground is also connected through the umbilical to the utility's grounded outlet; if running on an inverter the chassis is the only AC ground.) Right so far? Question is: if there were an AC problem such that hot went to ground, could there be damage to 12v. DC components as 120v. went momentarily (until something tripped) to the chassis? Rob -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Boosting Horsepower
Jeff, I installed a KN filter on my Dodge P/U, but couldn't tell any difference. One advantage is that it's washable, so you don't need to buy replacements in the future. Jim Jeff Griffin wrote: Hello All Can I expect any significant increase in horsepower by replacing my air filter with a KN filter and installing a performance exhaust system? I'm looking for feedback from others who have done this. Jeff -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: '84 Airstream Refrigerator Replacement
Harvey, It's usually pretty self-evident how the fridge is attached to the rest of the trailer. In my Avion, it's simply 4 screws through plugged holes in the front of the unit. Our A/S had bolts through the floor that looked to be a bugger to remove. Although I never did remove the fridge in the A/S, I've had the unit out of the Avion twice, it takes maybe 10 or 15 minutes. A replacement with a different unit might take a bit longer because of possibly having to modify the gas line, make and install a filler panel if it's not exactly the same size, etc. Look at yours and it'll be pretty much self-evident what needs to be done. Jim Harvey Barlow wrote: Charlie Burke and others, I bought a nice '84 A/S 31' from a good friend several months ago for a good price. My friend put what he called a cool pack, apparently a rebuilt cooling unit, in the refrigerator several years ago while he owned it. When I left home with it in late March for the WDCU Cherry Blossom Rally the refrigerator cooled very well but on the return trip, it began to warm up. Since then, it will cool on maximum using either 110 vac or propane but freezer temperature is 12.8 degrees and the box is about 48 degrees. Clearly not adequate. I have a couple of quotes to have it replaced which are fair, but I'm thinking about buying a new Dometic RM 2820 and install it myself. It doesn't look very difficult to simply remove the old one and slide the new one in and save myself several hundred dollars. How big a job is it? Would you please give me a little advice on how to remove the old refrigerator? All information and advice will be appreciated. Harvey Barlow - Original Message - From: Charlie/Betty Burke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of VACList [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 8:49 PM Subject: [VAC] Re: Vulkem Interestingly enough, on the Vulkem I buy for the company, from Airstream I can't find a number like 116 or whatever. I just buy it through them to make sure it's the stuff they prefer. It's kinda like wheel grease seals. Over the years they have used mostly one number (680370-100) and the seal I get has changed a couple of times. According to the guys at Henschen this is because when they test new design seals, if they find a better one they change it. I have always received a very durable double lip seal. And for the peace of mind they are not expensive. There are single lip seals out there that fit. Charlie Steve Hingtgen wrote: Okay folks, pardon this point about one of our products. I promise not to promote our store on this list. I've been hearing and seeing Inland's comments about 600 series Vulkem being the only Vulkem to use on Airstreams. We'll be at the International in a few days and we'll have a long conversation with the Airstream folks to get the straight scoop. We'll also call Tremco/Mameco, the manufacturer of Vulkem and hundreds of other caulks--including DAP--to get their opinion. Up to now, we have been hearing from Airstream that 116 is fine. And we have been hearing from hundreds of customers that they like Vulkem 116 (except it is so messy!). Here's a fact sheet provided by Ro-An that shows information about 116 and says it is suitable for travel trailers... http://www.roancorp.com/tremcospecs/trvulkem116.html I don't know much about 600 series Vulkem. But I'm sure you'd be fine with 6XX Vulkem too and I'd encourage you to buy it from Inland if you want to test it. We don't carry it but might start if someone can explain why it is worth the extra money it costs. I will report back to this with more information after International when I have spoken directly to the sources. Hope to see you all there! Steve http://www.AirstreamDreams.com To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Hydraulic/Electric Brake Controllers (Was 'Stromberg tow car kits')
Tuna, Why should you not use brass fittings? That's about all that NAPA sells.. Jim Tuna wrote: I have an old Kelsey-Hayes brake-controller i got from a generous person on this list - I spent a week working with my mechanic buddy trying to install it into the '99 Durango - eventually gave up, due to the difficulty of finding Cadmium Plated (VERY important NOT to use brass) fittings/tees etc. that would mate up the newer metric fittings on the Dodge... so i went ahead and put in a Jordan Research controller... took about an hour and a half, once i'd decided where it goes (under the steering column). -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Use Of Hydraulic-Electric Brake Controller in a Late Model Dodge Ram
Harvey, I think that one of the keys to my installation is that short line with the Male fitting on one end, Female on the other; both are swivel fittings. This allows easy orientation of the 'Tee'. FWIW: my 'Tee' fitting is brass. Jim Harvey Barlow wrote: Jim, Just as I transmitted my second message on the subject and returned to the e-mail screen, I found your reply. Thanks for the information. I will go to NAPA today and inquire about a 10mm, 10mm, 3/16 Tee fitting. I guess if brass is all that is offered, I better heed the warnings and pass on it. Tuna's discussion regarding using brass explains why the warning against using brass should be followed. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Excess heat from fridge
Jerry, I once saw a description with diagrams of what a good and bad vent stack for RV fridges look like. It was probably on http://www.rvmobile.com, but I don't remember for sure. Good venting is very important for proper operation of your fridge. If it's not inherently good, perhaps addition of a muffin fan or one of those solar-powered fan kits would help. Jim jerry catlin wrote: After installing a new Dometic fridge in my 68 Caravel, I have been noticing a build up of heat in the drawer immediately above the fridge. The items in the drawer are warm to the touch. Anyone else have this problem? I didn't do any modifications to the existing cabinets. I converted the fridge access door into an additional vent to provide more air flow. Thanks for your responses Jerry 68 17' Caravel Portland, OR __ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Stromberg tow car kits
Ken, Dunno if it's a Stromberg tow car kit, but I've seen a setup that had a small hydraulic cylinder permanently plumbed into the tow vehicle's brake system. It rode in a storage clip while not in use, then slipped into a bracket on the tounge of the trailer and actuated a master cylinder for the trailer brakes when towing. It did NOT have the tow vehicle's brake system directly connected to the trailer brakes. As others have said, this system is long obsolete, and with good reasons. One of the reasons that hydraulic brakes aren't much used on travel trailers is because they're problematic when used on an intermittant basis. I've had older vehicles that 'sat' a lot, and the brakes were very iffy when first used after a long rest. OTOH: I have a flat-bed utility trailer with house trailer axles and electric brakes that has sat around here for several years. As in 10 or more. I dragged it out of the weeds, repaired the wiring and installed a compatible plug, and the brakes went right to work after 2 or 3 applications (to clean off the rust). If you're actually going to use this trailer, you should strongly consider updating the brakes to the regular electric type. You can find several discussions of controllers in Tom's archives. FWIW: I just installed a Warner hydraulic-actuated brake controller in my Dodge. Got it from Can-Am RV, price was about $150.00 US, including delivery. Installation wasn't all that bad; I added a flexible hose between the controller and the steel line so I can drop the knee bolster below the steering wheel w/o bending the line. The special 'Tee' fitting required for the hydraulic connection was in stock at my local NAPA store. It worked very well on its maiden voyage of 75 miles. I towed that above-mentioned flat-bed trailer today, and a fairly hard brake application will cause the wheels to slide on the single axle that has brakes. I need to install the resistor that I bought from a List Member to correct that problem. Jim Ken Molly Reed wrote: Hello all. I managed to get ahold of a copy of Wally Byam's book, Trailer Travel: Here and Abroad. On page 75, he mentions hydraulic brakes that are hooked to the hydraulic brakes of the car, and the brake pedal controls both car and trailer brakes. I have heard of this type of braking system, called a Stromberg tow car kit. I have been unable to locate one in my area. Does anyone know where I might locate one? I would be interested in hearing any pros or cons to such a system. I have a '57 Bubble, and I tow it with a '57 Chevy Suburban Carryall. This hydraulic brake system seems to be a good way to utilize the existing hydraulic brakes on the trailer, which appear to be in excellent condition. Otherwise, I will be forced to go with a different axle and electric brakes, with the controller in the truck cab. Any comments appreciated. Ken Reed -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Stromberg tow car kits
Tuna,
If you want a hydraulic-actuated controller, one is still available
from Warner, sold by Can-Am RV. (http://www.can-am-rv.com). I just
installed one and am very happy with it so far. The Hayes (if you can
find it!) is nicer, as it uses a pressure transducer in the brake system
and wires to the controller. The Warner has a hydraulic brake line
running right to the controller itself.
No, the installation isn't as easy as a ramp style or the common
Tekonsha controllers, but the results make it worth the effort, IMO.
Dunno about the Jordan, as I've never done one of those.
Jim
Tuna wrote:
I don't know that you'll be able to find, or be very happy with, an
hydraulic to hydraulic brake system. Much better, but not simple to
manage, is an hydraulic-electric hybrid such as the now-obsolete
Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic brake controller. They can be found, just not
easily. They offer true 'proportional' braking to the trailer's
electric brakes. The controller uses hydraulic pressure 'tee'd' off
from the tow-vehicle's master cylinder, and converts it to electric
current fed to the trailer's brakes. It's also useful to have some
sort of large resistor to 'tune' the brakes to the trailer's brakes.
Much much MUCH easier is the Jordan Research Ultima 2020 we've been
talking about for the last year or so on this list... true
proportional control, and you don't need to tap into the tow vehicle's
brake system.
If you check the archives at www.tompatterson.com ('search site')...
keywords 'Kelsey-Hayes' or 'Hydraulic Brake Controller', many of your
questions will be answered.
Tuna
'48 Trailwind
WBCCI#8862/VAC
Reno, NV
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[VAC] Re: Bowen Parts, Online catalogs
Greg, I'd bet that you can get a new thermocouple from your local hardware store, they're pretty standard. The main difference between them is the length of the wire. (which looks like copper tubing). My local True Value sells thermocouples for around $5.00. Symptoms of a bad thermocouple are that the pilot won't stay lit when you release the safety over-ride button a minute or so after you're lit it. Often, it's just a bad connection; try loosening the connection on the gas valve and re-tightening it. The nut should be just a bit more than snug, don't reef on it. Jim Greg Hankins wrote: The Bowen G6A2 water heater on our '76 Tradewind could use a new thermocouple and I expect it wouldn't hurt to replace the pilot assembly at the same time. I've seen in the parts catalog I snagged from a dealer that you can get both parts in a unit for Suburban heaters. Question: Is there a good online catalog for this sort of thing. I've been to inlandrv, which appears to have a nice listing of various parts online but not a full searchable catalog. I could call them of course, but I typically shop for this sort of thing in the wee hours. Any good searchable online parts source? Thanks, Greg __ Greg HankinsSeven Lakes Times, L.L.C. [EMAIL PROTECTED] P.O. Box 602 Voice: (910)673-01111008 Seven Lakes Drive Fax: (910)673-0210 Seven Lakes, NC 27376 To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Testing the plug connection
Gillian, It's very possible that the ground wire in the trailer harness isn't connected. When you are hitched up, you'll get a half-assed ground through the hitch ball that 'may' make the lights work. You can usually spot a trailer that's working like this at night because their lights are flickering with every bump. Pinouts of the trailer connectors are on http://www.championtrailers.com, look in the tech area. Jim Porter Gillian L CRPH wrote: Are you working with a factory tow package on the truck... ie.. the new standard for the truck plug..??. GP - Not a tow package, but a new 7 pin plug When you say the lights work, do you mean stop, turn and clearance?? GP - yup, work when plugged into the truck, but not with my test set up. When you say you don't get anything to energize with the manual test lashup, how are you checking the magnets?? just listening for some sound?? GP - Lights didn't work, hence either did the brakes. Do the magnets energize when you pull the disconnect switch ?? (assuming you have one) GP - Ah-ha - that was the next question (I don't have a disconnect), assuming that's a trip to a service rep. I am not sure when Airstream switched to the new standard, but others will be able to come up with that ... I would suggest trying to locate the correct terminals by back feeding the various circuits... Put the battery on the circuit at the magnet end, and check with a meter to find the terminal on the plug that corresponds to the brake wiring... if you can't find a terminal that works, it is open somewhere GP - That's a good idea. I'll try that, thanks. Gillian To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Need esthetic feedback, HELP. Pass onto wife if this is not your arena.
Gwen, I've never, ever heard anyone say that their trailer had too much storage. Your lifestyle may be enough different that you will in fact have more than is needed. Good luck in your redesign and refurbishment. Do keep in mind that A/S has been building trailers a LONG time and they have reasons for most of the ways they do things. Please keep us posted!! Jim soule wrote: 5. Storage.We are planning to take this on the road for 3 months to escape the New England winter and may decide this to be a life style for wintering. That is unknown. The unit is now equipped with quite a bit of storage. More than I see needed. I would like to free up some room for a more open atmostphere but I have no experience in what ammount of storage space we will require. Not knowing us, this is a difficult to address, but I would like to hear what you have to say on this subject. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: What battery in '71 Tradewind?
David, Gerald is right, if all you need to power is the breakaway switch, most any old 12-volt battery will do. It probably takes a Group 27 RV/Deep Cycle battery as standard equipment. MAKE SURE THAT BATTERY IS TIED DOWN before travelling!!! When I brought my '68 G.T. home, the battery bounced out of its tray and was a bit wopper-jawed. It would have been unpleasant had it gone on its side and spilled acid, or a real disaster had the terminals shorted against the aluminum body. This is especially important if the battery is mounted in the rear as it was on the G.T., as the trailer bounces like hell back there. Jim David Josephson wrote: I expect to pick up my new '71 Tradewind later this week, and don't expect that its battery will be very useful. It's in a rather remote location and I'd rather avoid going out and back once I get there. Does anyone know for certain which battery size would be used in that model? I don't expect to need it except for peace of mind with the breakaway switch, but might as well bring the right one when I go. Thanks! -- David Josephson / Josephson Engineering / Santa Cruz CA / [EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Old things Last!
Bob, It's probably a carbon filament, not carbide. Carbon was replaced with tungsten because: 1. you get more light per watt from tungsten, important if you're running from battery power. 2. it's a much whiter light and more desirable for most people 3. I don't think that carbon handles shocks all that well compared to tungsten, something that's important in a TT. Jim Bob Kiger wrote: All of us who own vintage Airstreams can be pleased at the quality of the metal, the fixtures and even the aluminum LP tanks. The things that have not weathered time as well are the plastic lighting covers and to a lesser degree the Univolt and electrical. I was pleasantly surprised this AM by a news report on CNN of a 100 year old light bulb (4 watts) that has been burning continuously in a Fire Station in Livermore, California. It was hand blown and has a carbide filament. Anyone know why this technology went bye bye. With that kind of longevity I'm wondering why we don't have carbide filaments in our vintage coaches? :) Bob Photos of new 1966 Ford F-250 Camper Special puller coming soon. http://mrminimal.com 1966 Airstream Safari WBCCI #2857 1966 Ford F-250 Camper Special Mira Mar Mobile Community Oceanside, California -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Vintage air conditioners
Jim, The biggest problem with old A/C units on trailers is dirt buildup on the condensing coils. You must sometimes remove the outer cover/shell to clean the condenser properly. If it cools sometimes, it might be a bad thermostat that's failing to put the power to the compressor when cool is called for. Jim Jim Stewart wrote: I'm looking at a '65 Safari with the original air conditioning unit. The current owner says sometimes it works, sometimes it just blows air. It would be nice to keep the original unit, but I'm wondering if they are repairable. Any thoughts? Thankyou. Jim '61 Bambi -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: wheel bearings
Dave, If you pull the seal, the inner bearing will fall out. Some seals come out harder than others; I normally use a BIG screwdriver or small pry bar. I don't like to use a punch on the bearing because you can damage it. Do one wheel at a time and keep the bearings with their respective wheels, as they're worn in to the outer races. If you need to replace a bearing, it's best to replace the outer race also; those can be driven out with a punch from the opposite side. NOTE! When using a punch on a bearing, be sure to wear safety glasses, and it's best to not use a hardened punch. Either the punch or the bearing can chip and you don't know where the pieces will fly. I once had a piece of punch embedded in my arm and had to have a doctor cut it out. That was from using a hard punch on a bearing. I usually use a piece of rod as my punch for driving bearings. My '68 G.T. needed shocks and I got them at the local NAPA store. Just took an old one with me and had them match it up. Jim Dave Baccarini wrote: jim, I just got everything apart to do wheel maintenance. have you had any problems getting the inner bearings out. the shop manual says to turn hub face up and bank out the bearing with a punch. I tried this and it didn't budge. I was wondering if I pull the seal out will it come out easier. where can I get all those parts anyway. also did you ever change the shocks? I'm having trouble finding a matching shock. I have a 1975 31' sovereign. thank for any help you can give me. dave south carolina -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 12:53 PM To: Multiple recipients of VACList Subject:[VAC] wheel bearings I did my annual wheel bearing repack and brake adjustment a couple of weeks ago. It was interesting to find one of the outer bearings with 'spalled' rollers; they looked and felt very rough, probably due to inadaquet hardening during manufacture. Hard telling how long that bearing might have gone before failing completely. Fortunately, I had a spare bearing on hand, so the job wasn't held up while I ran to NAPA for another. It had been about 10,000 miles since the last repack. Moral of the story? Don't neglect those wheel bearings!! Jim -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Re Packing Wheel Bearings
Oliver, If you're not going to bother cleaning the bearing, don't bother at all. Yes, you need to clean the bearing and the wheel hub, and it must be CLEAN. If you're not willing to eat off it, it isn't clean enough; anti-friction bearings are quickly destroyed by only minute amounts of dirt. I normally replace the seals when I repack bearings, as I normally destroy them during removal. IF they come out fairly easily and aren't damaged, you can reuse them once, but I'd not do it again. Your local NAPA store should have the seals in stock, just take an old one along. Buy an extra seal and set of bearings (inner and outer) to keep in your trailer just in case. Be sure to smear a bit of grease on the lip of the seal and the spindle where the seal rides before replacing the wheel. Like a blown tire, bad bearings have very serious consequences if/when they fail. A wheel can leave the trailer, the axle stub can be destroyed, and more, all due to simple neglect. It's far too important to neglect and too important to me to be left to the $7.00/hour guy at the local RV place. IF you have a trailer place that you can trust, go ahead and let them do the job, but I don't know of anyone like that around here. There have been long discussions on wheel bearing packing and Tom Patterson should have them archived on his site. Take a look there for a detailed procedure. Jim Carol and Oliver Filippi wrote: My 1976 Airstream Service manual says to remove the inner bearing and grease seal, clean in kerosene, repack with grease and reinstall with a new grease seal. Is this overkill? Or is it OK to simply repack the bearings (without washing) and without replacing the grease seal? How available [locally] are these grease seals? Do most auto parts jobbers or stores carry them? If so, what make/model should I ask for? Ditto for the bearings. Thank you. Oliver Filippi [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1976 25' Land Yacht To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Re Packing Wheel Bearings
Gerald, My buddy uses plain old EP #2 gun grease on his trailer, but I've always used Wheel Bearing Grease. As you say, it's rated for higher temps than regular grease. A hydraulic press is very nice for installing new outer bearing races, but you seldom have to do that if you take care of things. And, it's far from impossible to install them w/o a press; I don't always use mine even now that I have one. (behind the B'port in this picture: http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/others/aug10_08.jpg) Jim Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: Its probably a good idea to use grease made from modern front wheel disk brakes on cars because the brake drums on a trailer can get really hot if worked a lot. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Re Packing Wheel Bearings
GQ, If you don't clean the bearing first, you can't inspect it. After having cleaned and packing my bearings just a year and 10,000 miles ago, I'd have bet money that they were OK. One most certainly was NOT OK, and I wouldn't have seen it if I hadn't cleaned it. A bearing packer is OK, but unnecessary, IMO. You'd have to dedicate a grease gun to wheel bearing grease, and I think everyone should know how to pack a bearing by the scoop goop method anyway. :-) Jim G Quamen wrote: Howdy all: I thought I'd mention how happy I was with the use of a bearing packer. Before the last big trip I packed both the bearings on my truck and those on my trailer using one. IMO, the packer fills the little nooks and crannies around the bearing rollers better then MOST people could do via the old scoop goop method. For those who haven't seen one of there gadgets, it is a pair of shallow plastic cones connected by a threaded tube with an opening for grease between the cones. A zirc fitting at the top of the tube connects to a grease gun. When a bearing is placed between the cones, the grease is forced out though the rollers from inside the bearing to the outside. Then you unscrew the two cones and smear the extra grease around the exterior surface of the bearing and you're done. Fits large and small bearings of the type found on pickups and A/Ss. I also use a can of matching grease to fill around the bearing as much as I can before screwing down the upper cone. Then the grease from the gun drives the other grease through the bearing. After the type of grease is established, you theoretically can drive out the old grease with the new without washing out the bearing. I'm still thinking about that one. Takes a lot of the guesswork out packing as far as I'm concerned. GQ '67 Safari To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Airstream prejudice: AGE
Gerald, A more likely scenario in our situation is the chuck-full tank sitting in the sun and popping the pressure relief valve. And all that gas is escaping, just looking for a spark. :-( When I bought the Avion trailer, the tanks were full, but the mounting assy. on the 'A' frame was all loose. It was bad enough that I removed the tanks for the trip home. When I got home, those tanks, sitting in the bed of my P/U, were exposed to direct sunlight and popped off at the P.R. valves. They hadn't done that at the previous owner's place because the trailer was parked with the tounge facing to the North. So, whoever filled them last had OVER-filled them and created a potentially dangerous situation. Of course, that dunderhead who is over-filling the propane tanks is the same one who worked at the RV place a couple of weeks ago and packed your wheel bearings.. Jim Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: The new valves are not to protect users so much from us, as to protect us users from dunderheads filling the tanks and filling them up to the top with liquid. Liquid will go through a gas system with the orifices sized for gas but the burners will supply a great deal more heat than planned. I saw the remains of a brand new 45 foot corn dryer bin that was destroyed by the dunderhead propane supplier getting dirt in the lines, then setting the burner regulator pressure to twice rated because the main control valve was fluttering from the dirt. When the dirt cleared, the liquid swamped the vaporizer and sprayed liquid under the corn. It not only wrecked the new bin, it destroyed over $60,000 worth of corn. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Re Packing Wheel Bearings
Gerald, IF the brakes never got TOO hot, that regular grease might have been OK. In normal driving, I've found my wheel hubs stay right at 'ambient', as measured with one of those temperature guns. (or my hand; I have no hubcaps on my trailer for that very reason) I can nearly always find a suitable socket for pressing in a new race, or I'll turn something on the lathe in short order. Although you're probably right about always replacing the outer race if the rollers are damaged in any way, I've found that it's often OK and I'll sometimes reuse it. Probably not the best idea, but I've never had a failure due to doing things that way. This most recent replacement was that way, the outer race looked fine to me and probably would have been OK to reuse with the new cone. I didn't spin the wheel to see if there was a rumble before tearing it apart, so can't say if it would have been noisy. It probably would have, at least a little bit. I saved the old bearing and will try to get a picture of it one of these days and put it on the Web Site. Jim Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: I know a former filling station operator (sells water softeners now) who says he never used anything but chassis grease when packing wheel bearings for customers. Never had any complaints. Of course when the wheel bearings locked up and wrecked the cars the accident investigation didn't detect the wheel bearing failures after they hit a bridge abutment head on... Wheel bearing grease for disk brakes is rated for higher temperature operation than the old stringy wheel bearing grease that was standard 30 years ago. I find that using a bar of aluminum (about 1/2 x 3/4) trimmed to the diameter of the outer race makes removing and replacing bearings a breeze with the hydraulic press compared to the hammer and punch technique. If I was truly serious, I'd buy a special tool that has adjustable width legs to fit every bearing. I also sometime use a socket from my collection as the driver for pushing outer races into the hub. With that adjustable bifurcated pushing tool, out races are a trivial task, and any good machine shop attached to an auto parts store should have it and should be able to replace bearing races for a couple bucks each. I'm working with wheel bearings on hay racks and other farm machinery that may be 30 to 50 years old and never been inside a building since it was built. There I have some rust problems on top of tight fits, and the hydraulic press is necessary. One can do a rudimentary check for wheel bearing condition by raising the axle and spinning the wheel. If you do that while doing a brake adjustment (probably should be done at least annually anyway), back off the brake adjustment so there's no drag. If there is any sound, like a speed dependent rumble, go buy bearings before you bother to complete the brake adjustment. The bearings are going bad and need to be replace. Never replace cone alone, because the outer race has been damaged by or is the cause of the damage to the rollers and the new cone and rollers will be destroyed rapidly by the old damaged outer race. Gerald J. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] wheel bearings
I did my annual wheel bearing repack and brake adjustment a couple of weeks ago. It was interesting to find one of the outer bearings with 'spalled' rollers; they looked and felt very rough, probably due to inadaquet hardening during manufacture. Hard telling how long that bearing might have gone before failing completely. Fortunately, I had a spare bearing on hand, so the job wasn't held up while I ran to NAPA for another. It had been about 10,000 miles since the last repack. Moral of the story? Don't neglect those wheel bearings!! Jim -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: The Airstream
Bob, Nice looking job! I like the way you handled the installation of the old UniVolt's fuse panel, it looks good and should work as well. Jim Bob Basques wrote: All, As promised, Chapter 5 - Installation of the new Power Convertor (This is the first half of installation, I'm tired of working on it for tonight. http://64.33.167.222/airstream/index.html bobb -- http://64.33.167.222/ -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] more on tools
Here's another perspective that can be appreciated by REAL tool nuts: --- Manifesto: 1. The main reason to have tools is in order to build other tools. 2. A secondary reason is to repair tools that you have collected. 3. A tertiary reason is to improve tools that you have collected. 4. A fourth reason is to restore tools to their previous condition after your improvements did not work. 5. A fifth reason is to create anew missing parts of collected tools that are made out of unobtainium. 6. In collecting and restoring tools it is essential to obtain only original manufactured parts even if these are much more expensive and there are perfectly serviceable equivalent, after-market parts at a fraction of the cost. If the tool is to be used for any of the above 5 reasons, then it is okay to use the un-official after-market part in a pinch -- but it is always preferable to find and restore the official one when you can -- even if it come to cutting 3/4 x 8.1 acme thread lead screws for you old Logan lathe. 7. It is theoretically possible to use tools for non-tool building and restoring purposes, but this is largely speculative and hotly debated. 8. When tools are used for purposes such as 7 above, the more and heavier the tools used to accomplish that purpose, the more glory there is in it . For example. This afternoon, the elastic on my wife's favorite pair of jeans broke. Because of the way it was manufactured, it was impossible to thread a new elastic into the waistband. The obvious solution was to install a dozen brass eyelets around the waistband and to provide a tie made out of a pair of old shoelaces. I had the eyelets, but because of the huge number of drawers full of tools, I could not find the eyelet tool or the proper hole punch. I made a new hole punch, using both lathes and a tool-post grinder. Then I had to make a die for the punch. Having no stock of the proper diameter, I mounted a square piece of stock on my rotary table and used the mill to cut it to an approximate round shape. More work on the lathe to cut the die and on the other lathe, to cut the punch. I had to use the taper attachment both times. Of course, there was heavy-duty work on the bench grinder to make all the form tools that were obviously needed for this task. I admit that because I did not have a heat-treating oven, it was not possible for me to properly heat-treat and harden the punch, the die, or the hole cutter. I did an admitedly half-assed job using a big torch. It is obvious that I am missing (1) a heat-treating oven, (2) a centerless grinder, (3) a precision tool grinder. When I finished the job, I put the new tools away in the proper drawer and found the existing hole punch, die, and grommet punch. However, my labors were totally vindicated because the hole punch was at least 1/64 oversized and the die for the grommet as well as the corresponding grommet punch were about the same amount under. The proper solution, had I been able to truly and fully practice the religion would have been to make my own grommets that would properly fit the existing hole punch, die, and grommet punch. For this I would have made the appropriate four punch die -- It is clear that I also needed, therefore, a 10 ton punch press. No doubt the shim stock that I would have used would have been wrong, mandating a small rolling mill suitable for brass -- and an anealing oven since one should have separate heat-treating and anealing ovens. All these deficiencies and problems notwithstanding, I did the best I could. I mounted the jean's waistband on a piece of heavy steel stock - 2 x 1 x 26 (she is a small person) and clamped the waistband to the stock using every single small machinist's clamp that I had. First however, I had attached (after careful milling and scraping) a right angle block at both ends so that the jig could be placed either upright or lying down. Then, carefully applying dykem blue on the backside of the jig, I let that dry and took the lot over to the surface plate where I marked a horizontal line at the proper distance, and then standing the jig on end -- first one side and then the other, I carefully market the spacing for the grommets and then center punched all the holes - - obviously, the fact that my height gauge is only 18 is a serious deficiency, and I really need a 36 height gauge for this job - -I did briefly consider making one but rejected that as being excessively punctilious. Having marked the hole locations, I took them over to the drill press and drilled small pilot holes (1/8) through the steel and into the cloth. I had to move the job several times -- the fact that I did not have that essential 24 throat radial drill press really bothered me -- another item for the shopping list. I suppose I could have done it on a
[VAC] tools
I might have posted this a year or 2 ago, but newer members might not have seen it: Mechanic's Tool Guide -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, Ouc HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front fender. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a motorcycle upward off a hydraulic jack. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, the sunshine vitamin, which is not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 60 years ago by someone in Springfield, and rounds them off. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short. - Jim -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA
[VAC] Re: Variable resistor for brake controller?
Tuna,
Radio Shack doesn't have a suitable resistor or potentiometer for that
use, sorry. The requirement is for something that can handle several
amps of current with perhaps a 6 volt drop. It would be in the range of
1 or 2 ohms at the maximum setting and at least 50 watts power-handling
capacity.
I'm probably gonna want one for my Warner brake controller also, but I
think I might have such a pot laying around here. (hamfest item)
Jim
Robert C Townsend wrote:
The K-H installation pages Harvey B. so graciously shared with a couple of
us (back-channel) make reference to a 'variable resistor' ('not supplied')
for 'trimming' the voltage to the trailer brakes - I'm thinking that this
would be a GREAT idea, especially when one is using the same puller with
different trailers...
Any electrical engineers (nudge-nudge, Dr. J) out there have a suggestion?
I'm thinking an ordinary potentiometer from RadioShack - but would like an
informed opinion as to the range/type/values for this application...
Tuna
(
--
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[VAC] Re: Newbies in Taos, NM
Ted, Today, folks use a frame-mounted receiver hitch; that's those square sockets that you see on the rear of pickup trucks, etc. Don't even think about using that ball on the bumper, those are suitable for utility and boat trailers only. I'll jump right into it and recommend, based on your projected use, that you get a real good heavy-duty tow vehicle now instead of fooling around with the Explorer. You told us the HP and torque, but what is it rated to TOW? My Dodge 3/4-ton P/U has only 160 HP (albeit with 400+ lb. ft. of torque) and will pull any A/S out there, something that can't be said about the Explorer. Besides tow rating, you need to look at the Gross Combined Weight Rating, the weight of Explorer, trailer, and all of your stuff. Most couples will pack nearly 1000# of stuff for vacations, full-timers typically carry twice that. Add even 1500# to a 5000# trailer, and you're talking serious amounts of weight. Oh! Don't forget your partner and the livestock, it all adds up. Using a vehicle that's marginal will result in: sweaty palms when things get dicey, much-shortened life of drivetrain components, and even potential liablity problems if you get real unlucky. My advice (worth at least what you're paying for it!) is based on your future plans. If you were fooling around on the weekends, short trips, only flat land, etc. you might be able to get away with putting a receiver hitch on the Explorer and going for it. Jim T. Byrd wrote: Hello, I’m new to the list, and while I don’t yet own an Airstream, I am interested in purchasing one. In order to help me with my decision, I’m wondering if I may pose a few questions to the community, and get your experienced feedback. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC engine and towing package. It produces 205 horsepower at 5000 rpm, and 250 lb. ft. of torque at 3000 rpm. The stock bumper can support a maximum tongue load of 350 lbs., and a maximum trailer weight of 3500lbs. What is the largest Airstream that I can tow behind this vehicle? I realize that many people modify their Airstream, but assume that it doesn’t have oak with marble fixtures (i.e. all or mostly original). I also understand (from what I’ve read so far) that as the years progressed, Airstream seems to have gotten heavier, so I imagine the later the model, the smaller it must be. It seems like the older pictures often show larger, tandem-axle trailers towed behind passenger cars. I grant you that yesterday’s passenger car was probably stronger than today’s SUV, but does this imply that the older models are lighter, or more easily towed behind smaller vehicles? We plan to become “Continuous Travelers” and will be travelling and living in this trailer for the foreseeable future. I’ve spent the past few years living out of the Explorer with a tent and sleeping bag, but have since picked up a partner with a cat and dog, so I need something larger. We don’t really know where to begin, so does anyone have any tips, tricks, or advice to give the would-be vagabond living the trailer life? Thanks for your time, Ted To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Leaf Spring type Axle
David, If the inner bearing races haven't spun on the spindles, I see no reason why the axle won't last forever. Springs do take a set and shackles wear out, but any decent spring place can take care of that. Brakes may be a different ball of wax, but might not be any problem at all. If they ARE obsolete, you may be able to replace the backing plates and drums with more-available parts. Jim D. Reilly wrote: I have a 1953 single axle Overlander with leaf springs (not TorkFlex). From what I have read here, It may be cheaper (and safer) just to replace the whole axle/break/spring assembly rather than restore the original. Has anyone done this on an older single axle, conventional spring, 12 inch breakdrum unit? If so, what brand of axle was used, was it an off the shelf part, or custom fabricated? Thanks in advance. David Reilly Madison, MS 1963 Overlander 1953 Overlander -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: trailer sway
Don, Besides adding the second friction anti-sway bar, make SURE that you have enough weight on the tounge. At least 10% is mandatory, 12% is better. If your water tank is in front, simply filling it might be all you need to do. Don't guess on this, MEASURE it. Jim Don Hardman wrote: We returned home on Sunday from a three week trip with the A/S starting in Houston, TX through San Antonio and Fredicksburg TX, Tucson and Flagstaff AZ, and Santa Fee NM. Then returning through Amarillo TX back down through Austin to Houston. The 31' 1976 A/S was great with no problems and my 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 with standard towing package got me up and down the mountains without a glitch. However I did experience some noticeable sway when I ran in to strong cross winds. I have a Reese hitch and equalizer with a drawtight sway bar. I have new tires on the trailer that are balanced and I have maintained the proper air pressure. I have pulled this A/S with the same truck and hitch setup a lot a miles over the past year and had not had sway such as this. The sway was not drastic, but did when it occurred, cause me some anxious moments. It only happened when there was a cross wind. I have been saving my money for a Hensley Arrow hitch, but is there anything else that I can do in the meantime to stop the sway during crosswind situations. Don Hardman To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Tapping into an existing septic system
Scott, Your scheme would work, but sewage pumps can be problematic. I'd try tapping the line going into the septic tank (probably a 4 size), installing a 'Y' fitting, then a straight run to your personal dump station. You should have about 1/4 to 1/2 of fall every ten feet of pipe. As Gerald suggested, you might want to consider a 'P' trap to prevent fumes from escaping, and you might need a vent stack. The latter can probably be dispensed with because your B.W. and G.W. tanks are vented through the roof of your trailer. Obviously, you'll operate your trailer dump valves just as if you were at a regular campground, holding the B.W. tank until it's 1/2 full or so before dumping, then following it with a few gallons from the G.W. tank. Try to avoid putting TOO much water into the system at once because that tends to cause problems with the septic tank and leach field. If you go with the sump plan, use a regular sewage lift pump, not a regular sump pump. They're meant to handle sewage and will do a good job. The only real problem is that they're obviously not as reliable over the long term as plain ol' gravity. You might consult with a local septic tank installer on the details. Jim Scott McVetty wrote: Hi Everyone Please let me apoligize in advance for any excessive use of lay terms, but septic systems are not my forte. Also, I hope this acceptible content for an Airstream Dissusion. It does pertain to my '69 Landyacht. I will be moving my trailer from a fully serviced park site, to a country location that I will be setting up the services myself. The owner has given me permission to drain into his septic system, but I'm not sure what the best stratigy would be. The back end of my trailer will be approximatly 30-40 feet from the lid to his septic tank. The ground is relatively level(no up or down pitches to contend with). I was thinking of burying a small tank with a sump pump by my trailer, with some buryied PVC pipe running to the tank. I just need a good approach to tapping into the existing tank. Is it acceptable to have a section of pipe loop out of the earth and in through the lid? The tank is concrete (i assume) so going in through the side would be a big job. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank-you Scott Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: furnace
Scott, If the furnace has electronic controls, I'd probably look there first. Start by making certain that the thermostat is indeed 'closed'. You can check for gas pressure by removing the plug at the valve and connecting a manometer or low-pressure guage, but you probably have gas pressure. If you've run all the other appliances, the air should be pretty well purged from the lines; the rest should purge as you attempt to light it. Does this outfit work like the older ones, with the motor coming on immediately when the 'stat calls for heat? If so, does the motor actually run? Is the sail switch making up (closing)? Is it perhaps stuck? Once you're sure that the mechanicals are working, you're stuck with looking at the electronics. As someone else said, these things tend to be all too fragile. In some cases, Suburban mounted the PC board in a hot area so it can be ruined by heat; I've heard of folks actually relocating the board by lengthening the wires, etc. Does the manual have a sequence of operation? Does your copy of Livingston's book cover your model? Jim Scott Scheuermann wrote: My 2 year old furnace has decided not to work. I suspect that there is air in the propane lines as the tanks were disconnected for a while. All the other propane items work. Any ideas where to start looking? It is chilly enough here at the Region 4 Rally to run it at night! Scott Scheuermann 1960 Overlander To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: flush valve leak
Dave, That's probably the base gasket leaking, not the valve. You'll need to remove the toilet to check and/or repair it; there's a bolt in the front and another down inside the thing, accessable through a plug in the top. (assuming the standard Thetford toilet) Most any RV dealer has the gasket. Jim David Turner wrote: Can anyone help with info in repairing a valve leak when you flush the RV commode? The water leaks out around the base of the commode when you step on the flush pedal. Thanks Airstreams For Sale: http://photos.yahoo.com/vintageairstreams David Turner 1105 Hancock Drive Americus, GA 31709 Home Ph. 229-924-8488 Office Ph. 229-937-2567 Office Fx. 229-937-5691 Airstream Web site: http://www.shockoestudios.com/tractor/library/airstream/airstream.htm Pedal Tractor Web site: http://www.shockoestudios.com/tractor.htm To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: no lone trailers in San Diego County?
Wayne, Spend some time on Phred's site at http://www.phrannie.org, look at the 'poop sheets'. Jim Wayne wrote: Does anyone have a URL they could recommend of things new trailering types should watch out for while trailering around the country? Mechanical do's and dont's would be certainly useful but I can probably find those easily. I am specifically referring to the more socially driven issues -- where am I allowed to park ad-hoc, maintaining personal and property safety and the like. This is the stuff that really counts... -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: 7 Pin Wiring Electrical Connector
Christian, That little box is an auto-reset circuit breaker in the charge line. Jim C. Petrich wrote: And another question: there is a small aluminum access panel under the right front of the trailer, in which the wires from the hitch wiring harness are attached to wires that spread throughout the trailer (wire nut attachments). There is small metal unit (1 cm x 1 cm x 2cm) with two posts that is attached to the aluminum access panel - one post has a blue wire attached and the other post has blue and red wires. The blue wire seems to be for charging the battery, and is attached to one that is in the hitch harness. The red wires are not attached to the red wire in the hitch harness (and therefore apparently unrelated to the left turn and stop light). Any idea what this little unit does? -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Houston Dealer Question
Lefty, The only time your A/C should need a recharge is if it's been physically broken, it's not like a leaky automobile A/C unit. Remove the covers and check both the evaporator and condensor coils. More than one A/C has been wrongly condemned when all it needed was a good cleaning. Jim lefty frizzell wrote: I own a '73 31 footer. After 30 years, it's time for either a recharge or new air conditioner. Can anyone tell me of a dealership/facility in the Houston area (or up to 100 miles radius) that is reliable and reasonable? I'm a contractor and use the Airstream as my home during my away from home gigs. I really rather would not be without the air this summer. Lefty Frizzell http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Dometic gas fridge start up
Cindy, You can get the cigarette lighter flints at your local carryout. I spent $12.00 and a couple of hours to install a piezo ignitor system on my fridge and it was a great improvement. Got the system from the local hardware store as a gas grill ignitor. Jim Cindy Hale wrote: Hi Gerald, Glad to know it's a flint in there...is it replaceable? Cindy To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: 59 Overlander brakes
FWIW: I spent $100.00 on one drum for my '68 G.T. You're right, a complete axle w/ drums and brakes is a bargain at $250.00. Jim Harvey Barlow wrote: Richard, A complete new axle assembly from brake drum to brake drum will be a bargain at $250. Not even worth considering an alternative. Harvey - Original Message - From: Richard Paul [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of VACList [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 2:03 AM Subject: [VAC] Re: 59 Overlander brakes Thanks to everyone who responded regarding the problems with 59 Overlander brakes. I guess I wasn't clear enough. I need drums. The non std bearing sizes mean that the axle is a different OD where they ride. I need to find new drums and cannot find anything for it. I am probably going to replace the axle assembly. Cost is under $250 including brakes! To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: '48 Wee Wind renovation/modernization... a bundle of
Gerald, There are 12VDC RV fridges that use a compressor. They draw about 5 amps of current, far less than a 3-way absorbtion type of unit, and run about 50% of the time. That means 60 AH/day, requiring at least 2 solar panels and a bank of golf cart batteries; quite doable in a MH, a bit more problematic in a trailer. Jim Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: I'm wondering if maybe the dorm room sized refrigerator running on AC may be more energy efficient than the standard RV absorption refrigerator. Likely its marginal because of poor power factor leading to more volt amps than a DC equivalent, such as sold by SunFrost. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Interesting story 955 FC w/ 30k pic
Roger, We were at the Tin Can Tourists (see http://www.tincantourists.com) rally and there were many vintage trailers pulled by vintage vehicles. How's about a 1936 Bolus (A/S predecessor) pulled by a 1936 Buick? Jim Berger Roger wrote: thanks - do people restore these and tow with them nowadays?? --- Pearl Main [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Berger Roger The Travellall made by International Harvester came in 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton models.Company now called International Truck and engine Company and still headquartered in chicago..We were the first company employees to use a travel trailer to live in while my husband was making an audit of one of the manufacturing plants or subsidary companyies or like the proving grounds in AZ. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: hookup with 6 pin round connector
Wayne, go to http://www.championtrailers.com for the wiring for the standard RV connectors. Those are the ones that have 6 flat connections and a round one in the center. FWIW: I think that anyone who tows a trailer weighing several thousand pounds w/o brakes is a damn fool and I sure hope I don't meet him on the road. The only exception that I would sanction is the trip home with a new to you trailer and the trip is short, say less than 50 miles, back roads, and sssowww going. As in not over 40 MPH, and certainly not on wet pavement. I'm using a 3/4 ton truck and I can't stop my trailer in any hurry if it's raining and my brakes ARE working. Which is precisely why I'm going to a hydraulic controller within the next week. That's my opinion only, you can argue if you wish. OFF LIST, not here. Jim Wayne wrote: I towed my 18' (16' body) 1948 Boles Aero for nearly 1500 miles without the electric brakes being connected. In fact, I've never towed it with the brakes connected. My tow vehicles* weigh 6000 lbs and have great brakes so it wasn't a huge deal but I do intend to use the trailer electrical brakes at some point. I'll have to move to the 6 (7?) pin round connector from the 4 pin connector that are on my trailers now. Anyone have a spec/source/URL for the pinouts of that new (to me) round connector that people are wiring for these days? I assume the added pins are brake and backup light. Anything else? wayne * 1985 Mercedes 280GE Geländewagen cabrio * 2000 Mercedes G500 Geländewagen cabrio At 23:13 -0500 2001/05/16, Dan Weeks wrote: I towed my Argosy 26 250 miles over rolling hills--some steep enough for truck lanes--without brakes hooked up. I was careful, but it was fine. A panic stop wouldn't have been fun, so pick your time and traffic, but you should be OK. Dan From: Berger Roger [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:23:57 -0700 (PDT) To: Multiple recipients of VACList [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VAC] hookup with 6 pin round connector my 55 FC has a round electrical hookup with 6 flat female sockets. I need to connect to a Toy truck. I am thinking of not connecting the brakes! My trip will be a one way move on most flat land. I would have to by a tow hitch so I guess I would let them hook up a connector to the truck. What kind of connector should I get on the truck. I will sell the truck after the move so I want standard stuff. I am thinking maybe I need to make a pigtail from the standard connector on the truck to the FC anyone using this round 6 pin connector? To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Pull Rite Hitches
Jerry, A friend has had a Pull-Rite hitch for years, mounted on a 1988 Suburban, pulling a 31' A/S trailer. He loves it. There are 2 disadvantages to the P-R: it costs you the under-bed spare tire storage if you have it and may require minor exhaust work. Also, you cannot easily move it to a new vehicle. OTOH: it's much cheaper than a Hensley and works every bit as well. You don't use sway bars, but you DO use weight transfer bars. Jim Jerry Thompson wrote: I'm a newbie and have been looking at various hitches. Does anyone out there use the Pull Rite Hitch? If so what are your thoughts on it? Do you need to use stabilizers/bars with a Pull Rite? I plan to pull with a Ford 350 van. Also anyone who has a lead on a 22 to 25 ft Airstream or Argosy for sale, in good shape! Preferably in Northern California please contact me off the list. I'm looking for a later model say 1970-1985. Thanks - the information on this list is great! Jerry Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: transformer/converter question
Joy, I got my eMeter from Jade Mountain, but there's others who sell it also. It's by Cruising Equipment; if you do a search on either emeter or Cruising Equipment, you should find it. A picture of my setup is on my site, in the Avion section. Jim Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote: Can you give me a link to Jim's E-meter? I think I recall a thread sometime back discussing this. '69 Safari, Joy -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: How much is too much?
Warren, Go to http://www.can-am-rv.com and look in their tech section for a treatise on hitching. Do you have the proper weight distribution bars and hookups? Jim Warren Wolf wrote: I've had my '66 Caravel only two weeks and I can't remember the last time I had this much fun. I'm concerned about the amount of rear end sag I'm seeing on my 1987 1/2 ton Suburban when I tow the A/S. The vehicle shocks are new HD. Are stiffer leaf springs required to level out the rig? How much sag is too much? To see an image with the trailer very lightly loaded and no LP bottles aboard go to http://www.kabinfever.com/images/cherokee.jpg Thanks Warren To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: transformer/converter question
Joy, The TrueCharge seems better in some ways, as you mention below. As I don't plan on using anything except conventional lead-acid batteries, it's a moot point for me. Conventional L/A batteries are still the best deal going if you consider electrical storage as the main point. (AH/$) The Charge Wizard is a plugin gadget that turns the Inteli-Power converter into the smart charger. Apparently, the microprocessor resides in that little box. The C.W. also has a pushbutton to force the mode selection and an LED to indicated its mode. Other than the battery type selection, I see no real functional difference between the StatPower and the Inteli-Power converter/chargers. The former is a bit harder to mount, as it should be vertical for best cooling. Because of the way these things work, I'd suspect that the I.P. would also compensate for low input voltage and would not be affected by an off-frequency supply. The latter is important for some of us if we were figuring on charging the battery by plugging it into a genset for a few hours. Ferro-Resonant converters such as our UniVolt won't work well if the supply is off-frequency. Additional advantages of both the S.P. and the I.P. is the smaller size and very light weight, about 5# instead of the 30# UniVolt. The reason they're so light is because they use what is called switching technology instead of linear. They rectify the incoming AC to make DC, run that through a high-frequency inverter to make AC at maybe 25KHZ, step the voltage down in a very small transformer (transformers work much more efficiently at higher frequencies), then rectify it back to DC and regulate the output. This is exactly the same technolgy as is used in your computer power supply, so it's nothing new or mysterious. A regular clampon ammeter for AC will not work for DC. Best is an ammeter that you physically place in series with the load, but they do make ammeters that slip over a wire to read DC current. They won't read real low values, but they do come in 2 versions (some are combination units) that read 75-0-75 and 500-0-500 so you can check alternator output and starter current draw. To read real low currents with your clampon AC ammeter, loop the wire through the jaws several times. Each loop multiplies the reading, so if you have 3 loops, the reading on the meter will be 3X actual current draw. My meter came with a splitter that has a combination plug/receptacle on one end, a short cord, and a thing on the other end with 2 loops for the clampon jaws. One loop is 1X, the other is 10X for reading very small currents. It's real handy for checking out a device that plugs into the wall, as you don't have to get inside to get the jaws around ONE wire. Again, whether YOU can benefit from one of the new smart chargers depends a lot on whether you depend on your batteries for more power than at a typical lunch-time stop at a rest area. If you always have power at a campsite, it's probably not worth replacing the UniVolt. If you want your batteries to be treated RIGHT and you actually USE them for a day or 2 (or more) at a time, then a good 3-stage charger should be on your shopping list. And, if your UniVolt needs replacing, you'd be foolish to consider anything else, as the price for an Inteli-Power isn't much higher than many conventional converters. Jim Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote: OK Jim, I really don't understand all this, but it sort of makes sense. As far as the Inteli-Power is concerned, the charge wizard is a remote meter that reads the status of the Inteli-Power as it relates to the battery. However, the Truecharge 40+ charger/converter has about the same performance; however, there seems to be mode selection for different types of batteries, full output with poor AC input, etc. There's a considerable difference in cost of the two units. Is there a real functional difference in the two brands? Would a clamp-on work for DC? My clamp on probably won't measure 1 or two amps. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: '48 Wee Wind renovation/modernization... a bundle of
Wayne, Operation of the fridge on 12VDC is only practical when you're travelling; they tend to draw a LOT of current. I'd bet on 8-10 amps or maybe more, not a problem when the tow vehicle is running, but will run a battery flat in a hurry when it's not. Remember that the electric side of these fridges is nothing more than a heating element, probably 100 watts or so. That'd be over 8 amps at 12VDC. Jim Wayne wrote: At 12:48 -0600 2001/05/16, Roy Lashway wrote: -an AC/DC/propane Dometic or other quality under counter fridge. I think we're shooting for counters between 32-36 high since the trailer is very small. -an interior (propane?) space heater to properly warm a 507 cu ft. trailer in cold weather -the smallest on demand (propane) water heater I can find == **Frig: You will probably be better for to settle for an AC and propane frig. The 12V feature has not had good reports and is used primarily to run off your tow vehicle battery when on the road. Most cases this is unncessary as frig. will hold its cool quite well for at least 4 hrs, maybe more. The 12V hook up, I have heard, tends to run the car battery down when one neglects to disconnect it or leaving it on when motor is running. I used a Dometic Model RM2202 in my '56 Bubble. It came with 3 way but I didn't hook up the 12V feature. Be aware these will require two - lower upper- external vent openings which needs to be carefully planned and these may dictate siting of the frig. inside. What's the 12v amp/hour rating for that fridge? 12v may make sense while driving long distances and then fire up propane mode when camped. 120VAC where possible, of course, but I suspect that we're going to be mostly off the grid while using this trailer. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: transformer/converter question
Joy,
The UniVolt is what is called a constant voltage charger, it operates
at a bit over 14 volts in most cases. It is what Livingston describes as
a single output floater, no seperate charging and power circuits.
Now, here's why the UniVolt, et. al. are crap:
To charge a 'low' battery in a decently short time, you have to have the
charging source set at about 14.4 volts or maybe a bit more. That will
cause a good charge rate and it will taper off as the battery approaches
full charge. However, that's too high to float the battery at, you'll
cook out the water. ('cook out' isn't technically correct, but you get
the idea). In an attempt to prevent cooking the battery during long idle
periods where the unit is connected to shore power, they might design
the converter so the voltage is right at 14 or maybe a bit less. The
problems however, are still there, the battery will now charge very
slowly, taking maybe 24 hours or more to be fully charged if it's down
from a couple of 'no power' days, yet that's still a bit too high for
long-term floating.
A proper 3-stage charger such as the StatPower or Inteli-Power sets
itself to 14.4 volts during the bulk charge part of the charging
cycle. Once the battery is 80%+ charged (just a few hours), it switches
to 13.8 volts to finish the job. When the battery is fully charged and
there's no current draw, it goes to 13.2 volts for storage mode. The
Inteli-Power automatically switches to 14.4 volts for 15 minutes, every
21 hours, to keep the battery cells equalized; the StatPower has a
manual control for equalization.
You can easily check to see what your UniVolt is doing by connecting
your DVM ammeter in series with the battery. Set it to 10 Amps and be
very careful how much load you turn on. You'll find that the charge rate
will be very low to non-existant when you have a couple of lights on,
yet will be 1 or 2 amps when the system is idle and the battery fully
charged. Pushing even an amp into the battery when it's already charged
will cause the water to cook out.
See:
http://www.progressivedyn.com/_frames/frames_rv_power_converters.html
and:
http://www.amplepower.com/primer/full/index.html
for more information.
Obviously, you can get by with a UniVolt (or equivilant) converter. If
you are nearly always connected to shore power, only boondock
occassionally and have plenty of time to recharge after, watch the water
level in your batteries, and don't mind a bit shorter life from them,
then the UniVolt will usually work OK. If you want to treat your
batteries with kindness, need to be able to recharge quickly from shore
power (using a small genset during extended boondocking, for instance)
and want to get away from that God-awful hum, then a new unit should be
on your shopping list.
Jim
Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote:
Livingston's RV repair and maintenance booklet has a great section of
converters as there are two types that need to be considered. The dual
output converter is the least expensive and the most common. It has two
output circuits - one for battery charging and the other for the appliances.
The output is often dirty and not suitable for delicate electronic
accessories.
Livingston also describes the single output that is called a battery
floater.
This is more expensive as the voltage is filtered and the battery is always
on-line. Since the voltage is not split - one line to the battery and the
other to the appliances - all the output of the converter is sent to the
battery and allows very high charge/recovery rates. As appliances are
turned on, the charge rate drops. The advantage of the higher-line
converters is the provision for temperature monitoring and/or owner setting
of operating conditions.
Guess this is as close as I can plagiarize without writing the complete
text.
I'm pretty sure that the original Univolt was a single output and for
vintage units was a pretty expensive ferromagnetic mechanism. Contemporary
units are solid state electronic switching for what ever that means. The
A/S owner's manual claims that the Univolt has regulated output that changes
the charge rate as the battery charges and shuts off when the battery is
fully charged. My old univolt still works as described in the owner's
manual. I can hear a loud hum until the battery is fully charged and then I
hardly notice the hum (while bedded down on the gaucho nearly over the
Univolt). The only time the Univolt refused to operate properly was when I
was off the 110 shore line and removing and attaching the battery cable
while lights were on in the Safari. The 40 amp fuse opened and it took much
longer to find a 40 amp fuse than most would have to replace the Univolt.
I'm not sure why many A/S restorers claim that the Univolt is crap.
However, Herbach and Rademan (H R) www.herbach.com sells salvage and
distressed electronics. The list a 20 amp charger at $99 and a 48 amp
charger at
[VAC] batteries and chargers
Here's more resources: http://www.rvpowerproducts.com/tech.htm also http://www.amsolar.com/batteries.htmlhttp://www.amsolar.com/batteries.html Good treatises on batteries and charging. Jim -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: transformer/converter question
John Jodi, Get a 3-stage charger/converter to replace that old UniVolt. I'm partial to the Inteli-Power with Charge Wizard adapator from Camping World. Had a bad experience with the StatPower charger. Yes, the pump should operate from the converter when you're plugged in to shore power. You can get suitable fuse panels from places like West Marine, JC Whitney, or your local NAPA store. Boat people and custom car folks use these things all the time; you'll need at least 4 branch circuit fuses and you should have a fuse in one of the main battery cables also, preferably very near the battery. That one should be on the order of 50 amps in size, the others will be more like 15 amps. Sort out the wires by connecting a battery (with an inline fuse of maybe 10 or 15 amps) and connect all the white wires together and then to the '-' terminal of the battery. Connect the black wires one at a time to the fuse and see what works, labeling them as you go along. Everything should work eventually. Then, connect your black wires to the fuse panel. Do a neat job and use lots of Ty-Raps and you'll have a job to be proud of. You'll like the Inteli-Power converter/charger, it's fast to charge a 'low' battery and won't cook it once it's charged if you leave the shore power cord connected for long periods. Good luck!! Jim John and Jodi Guerin wrote: We have a '65 Caravel with a terrifically messed up transformer unit. It appears that the original owner fancied themselves a certified electrician, tho' they really shouldn't have. The unit does not charge the batterey when hooked up to the tow vehicle, nor does it seem to convert 110V. to 12V. when hooked up to city power. (Am I wrong in assuming that when hooked to city power, the water pump should function via converted power from this unit?) Due to the fact that there are wires everywhere, some attached to things, some not, and that the original fuse bracket has been replaced with a thread in home style unit, what I would like to do is replace the original with a new transformer/converter and then a fuse panel for all of the lines running to their respective outlets/appliances. Any advice on what to get, as far as a transformer/converter would be greatly appreciated. Any advice on where to find a detailed electrical diagram so that I know which wires go to where would be greatly appreciated as well. Lastly, any advice on how to go about the job wouldn't be a bad idea either. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Temp guage for Transmission cooler (for pulling the Airstream)
Bob, They have the Pillar mount with one, 2, or 3 holes in it. Jim Bob Basques wrote: I saw the same three gauge setup for the pillar mount, I like this setup, but what would I put into the other three slots? :-) bobb Jim Dunmyer wrote: Bob, Those temperatures agree with what I've seen elsewhere. Jim Bob Basques wrote: For those interested, I found this info related to tranny temps: Auto Trans Temp Guide Temp//Possible Trans Life 185-potential for very long life 220--can cut trans life in half if sustain 240--More damage, varnish starts to form 260--even shorter life, seals harden 295--still shorter trans life, clutches begin to slip 300+-Very short life. Buy stock in trans repair shop. Are these numbers correct?? Thanks bobb Bob Basques wrote: All, I picked up a tranny cooler for my van this afternoon, and was thinking about putting a temp gauge in at the same time, what temperature range should I look for in a temp gauge for the tranny oil? bobb -- http://64.33.167.222/ ___ ___ ___ ___ /\ \/\ \/\ \/\ \ //\\___\\\___\\\___\\\___\ \\// _/_/ /// /// / \/_/\ \__/\/___/\/___/ //\\___\//\\___\ \\// _/_ _\\// / \/_/\ \/\ \/___/ //\\__//\\___\ \\// _\\// / \/_/\ \/___/ //\\___\ \\// / \/___/ To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://64.33.167.222/ ___ ___ ___ ___ /\ \/\ \/\ \/\ \ //\\___\\\___\\\___\\\___\ \\// _/_/ /// /// / \/_/\ \__/\/___/\/___/ //\\___\//\\___\ \\// _/_ _\\// / \/_/\ \/\ \/___/ //\\__//\\___\ \\// _\\// / \/_/\ \/___/ //\\___\ \\// / \/___/ -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://64.33.167.222/ ___ ___ ___ ___ /\ \/\ \/\ \/\ \ //\\___\\\___\\\___\\\___\ \\// _/_/ /// /// / \/_/\ \__/\/___/\/___/ //\\___\//\\___\ \\// _/_ _\\// / \/_/\ \/\ \/___/ //\\__//\\___\ \\// _\\// / \/_/\ \/___/ //\\___\ \\// / \/___/ To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Measuring battery charge with accurate voltmeter
Oliver, I can't find the chart of battery voltage vs. state-of-charge at the moment, but in general, it's recommended that you never let the battery get below 50% state of charge if you want maximum life from it. I've seen 2 voltages for 50%, 12.1 and 12.3. A fully-charged battery will read 12.6, if it doesn't, it's junk. You can tell when a lead-acid battery is fully charged by either checking with a hydrometer (the readings will quit rising) or watching the electrolyte in the cells. When ALL CELLS are gassing freely (not 'boiling', just a good steady stream of bubbles), the battery is fully charged. Leave it sit for 24 hours with nothing causing a drain, then measure the voltage. All readings must be taken after AT LEAST several hours of 'rest', no charging or discharging taking place. A period of 24 hours is best. Note that because of the very small difference between voltage readings, an analog meter or the bank of lights in a typical RV is totally useless, a good DVM is mandatory. One of the places I checked in trying to find that chart was http://www.amplepower.com. They have Killing Batteries in their technical section, and I took the liberty of copying it here. They sell 2 books, Wiring 12 Volts for Ample Power and Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power, full descriptions and ordering info is on their web site. Both are somewhat general, aimed at not only RVers, but boaters and owners of remote cabins. They have extensive info on their web site on batteries, chargers, and design considerations. Where it says, ferroresonant charger in the list below, read that as UniVolt. Jim -- Killing Batteries There are many ways to kill batteries ...even very expensive batteries. Below are a few ways to treat batteries ...NOT! Overcharge the battery by applying a voltage above 13.8 Volts for extended period Undercharge the battery by never charging it beyond 13.8 Volts. Discharge the battery and leave it that way for a few days or weeks. Let the battery sit unattended without charging for 3 weeks or longer. Repeatedly discharge the battery beyond the optimum 50%. Slosh the battery around when it is deeply discharged. Boil enough electrolyte from the battery that the plates are exposed to air. Periodically add more acid, or unpure water. Use a ferroresonant charger in a liveaboard situation. Sock the battery with a high output alternator that produces more than 40% of the Ah capacity of the battery. Mount the battery where it regularly gets above F. Charge it hot until you can't even touch the case anymore. Use a big inverter on a small battery and run the inverter until it cuts out from low voltage. Freeze the battery in a discharged state. Use a starter battery in a deep cycle application. Ample Power products are manufactured by Ample Technology, 2442 NW Market St., #43, Seattle, WA 98107 - USA --- Carol and Oliver Filippi wrote: Several months ago there was a discussion as to how to determine the charge level of a lead-acid storage battery by measuring the voltage across the terminals with an accurate volt meter. I failed to archive the info, and now could really use it - especially with the modern maintenance free batteries which do not provide access for the old standby hydrometer. So, please advise as to voltage readings and the charge levels they represent. Also, any tips on when or how to take the readings in order to get a good indication of the charge level of the battery. This time I will be sure to archive the info! Oliver Filippi [EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Temp guage for Transmission cooler (for pulling the Airstream)
Bob, Buy a guage kit for transmission oil temperature and it'll have the right range. They go from about 140 to over 300 degrees at the top end. Geno's Garage (http://www.genosgarage.com) has guage kits, as does your local NAPA dealer. I used an AutoMeter 'A' pillar mounting kit for the trans temp, exhaust temp, and turbo boost guages and it is way cool. Jim Bob Basques wrote: All, I picked up a tranny cooler for my van this afternoon, and was thinking about putting a temp gauge in at the same time, what temperature range should I look for in a temp gauge for the tranny oil? bobb -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Temp guage for Transmission cooler (for pulling the Airstream)
Bob, Those temperatures agree with what I've seen elsewhere. Jim Bob Basques wrote: For those interested, I found this info related to tranny temps: Auto Trans Temp Guide Temp//Possible Trans Life 185-potential for very long life 220--can cut trans life in half if sustain 240--More damage, varnish starts to form 260--even shorter life, seals harden 295--still shorter trans life, clutches begin to slip 300+-Very short life. Buy stock in trans repair shop. Are these numbers correct?? Thanks bobb Bob Basques wrote: All, I picked up a tranny cooler for my van this afternoon, and was thinking about putting a temp gauge in at the same time, what temperature range should I look for in a temp gauge for the tranny oil? bobb -- http://64.33.167.222/ ___ ___ ___ ___ /\ \/\ \/\ \/\ \ //\\___\\\___\\\___\\\___\ \\// _/_/ /// /// / \/_/\ \__/\/___/\/___/ //\\___\//\\___\ \\// _/_ _\\// / \/_/\ \/\ \/___/ //\\__//\\___\ \\// _\\// / \/_/\ \/___/ //\\___\ \\// / \/___/ To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://64.33.167.222/ ___ ___ ___ ___ /\ \/\ \/\ \/\ \ //\\___\\\___\\\___\\\___\ \\// _/_/ /// /// / \/_/\ \__/\/___/\/___/ //\\___\//\\___\ \\// _/_ _\\// / \/_/\ \/\ \/___/ //\\__//\\___\ \\// _\\// / \/_/\ \/___/ //\\___\ \\// / \/___/ -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Rocky Mtn. Rally
Harvey, Look at it this way: you were already committed to spending XX $$ on your trip(s) this year, probably figuring on spending $1.50/gallon on gas. IF it goes to $3.00/gallon, you need to look at the difference, not the total cost. Figure out how far you'll travel and how much more it'll cost at $3.00 vs. whatever figure you were figuring on spending and see if that amount will break the piggy bank. Heck, if cost was a big issue, none of us would have RVs of any kind. I pay little to no attention to fuel prices, if I want to go, I GO. Jim Harvey Barlow wrote: John Jodi, I want to attend the Rocky Mountain Rally and my wife has already requested vacation time covering the dates. I understand your need to have registrations in hand early in order to make commitments but I have been delaying making a decision. I am reluctant to send in my registration with gas prices expected to reach $3/gallon or more by that time. My faithful old towing vehicle is a gasoline fed 460 cubic inch Ford which is very thirsty. Harvey -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Any market for original equipment 8 track player?
Mary, There was no radio in our trailer when we got it, just a mounting location. As our 'new to us' truck had a CD player in the dash, we went to Best Buy and got a Sony CD player/radio that works great. I'll give you a small hint: if your radio/CD player is going to be mounted in a location that is at or above eye level, MAKE SURE that you look at the display model from that angle. We found that a number of them couldn't be easily read, as they were designed to be mounted in a dashboard, below eye level. Jim Mary K Welch wrote: My 1972 Overlander still has its original 8 track tape player. One modification my husband insists on is a CD player. I'm not going to discard the 8 track, but would someone wishing to restore an A/S to original shape want it? It seems to work. Mary To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Screen Fasteners
Warren, You can probably get the plastic doo-hickeys from a dealer. Take a look at my Airstream page (see URL in SIG below) to see what I did for a step. Although both of our trailers have steps, we seldom use them while on the road. Jim Warren Wolf wrote: My 1966 Caravel is now home here in Texas after an uneventful trip from the seller's home in North Carolina. The Smokies are beautiful in May. I would appreciate advice related to locating the plastic fasteners that hold the screens in place. Also, the steps that extend out below the door are missing and I'd like to replace them or find a suitable substitute. Thanks for the assistance! Warren To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: The VACList reminder - List Office
John, The Email List is much easier for folks who participate in more than one discussion group. Everything is delivered to your mailbox in one swell foop, er.. fell swoop, when you first do a Get Mail. There is no need to go to a web site someplace, read the mail, then go to a different site for another group, etc. You're using YOUR mail client, so the interface is the same, no matter which group you're participating in at the moment. OTOH: You can read an online forum without any need to Subscribe, there is no need to Unsubscribe if you tire of the group, and (the best part!) there's all the old mail sitting there so you can get up to speed if you've just found the group. In fact, reading the old messages may convince you that you're not interested in the group at all. I've use YahooGroups in this manner. (preview and review) Given a choice, I'll always opt for the Subscribe type of discussion group, but I do like the Preview and Review features of the Web-based message board. The nice thing about YahooGroups is that they have BOTH options. Hunter's AirstreamList is hosted on YahooGroups, so you have the option with that group. Jim John R. Kleven wrote: I have wondered if anybody has considered going to a message board format. What are the benefits of a E-mail list over a message board? Great list in any format but... Thanks Randy I suspect that the volume of mail is starting to get overwhelming to some of the members of this list. We've had a subscription interface on the VAC website since last summer or fall that makes it really easy to manage your own VACList subscription preferences. please take a moment and review your options by clicking this link: http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If you want to be removed, remove yourself. If you want to PAUSE, pause yourself. If you want to switch to digest format, easy, digest yourself. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: While on subject of A/C's.....
Ken, It isn't as simple as fabricating a shroud for either end of a window A/C unit. On the Condenser side (the part that is outside, the air is usually drawn in through the louvers on the sides of the box and pushed out the rear. You have to allow that air to be drawn IN besides allowing for the exhaust. On the Evaporator side (the part that's inside), the air is drawn from the living space through a large opening and pushed across the evaporator coils and back into the room. A simple duct will allow short-circuiting of the air flow and you aren't going to get much cooling. Restricting the airflow across the condenser is especially bad because it'll raise the head pressure on the compressor and cause it to fry. That's in addition to using a lot more power than it should. This is a good time for a reminder: there was at least one person on this list last year who was told by an expert that his rooftop A/C was junk and needed to be replaced. Once he consulted with us and was advised to clean the condenser coils, he checked and found it totally plugged with dirt. Cleaning it restored normal operation. The same advice holds for your home A/C units, either window or central air type. Check those condenser coils; you'll have to pull the guts out of the sheetmetal box to do so on a window unit. I've seen more than one A/C unit that wasn't working at all whose only problem was a plugged condenser. Jim Kenneth E. Johansen wrote: Ray What size A/C did you use... and how did you exhaust.. I've read other posts where this was done and it sounds like you fabricate a shroud to the back of the A/C which connects to a 4?6?8?? inch tube?. Seems to me like it would be difficult to exhaust all the hot air out. Also, how do you get the cool air to circulate in the trailer... if its on the floor (I assume facing the center of the trailer). Thanks for your help Ken Johansen 59 Traveler At 06:50 AM 5/8/01 -0700, you wrote: Ken - went thru the same thing when putting a/c in my 55 safari (ended up putting it on the floor under a dinette seat with an exhaust duct thru the floor) - your idea of running a duct into the trailer will probably work IF the unit has a large enough BTU rating - the window type units i looked at pulled cooled air back into the front of the unit thru a grid and filter on the front of the a/c (it recirculated the cooled air) - with a unit completely outside the trailer pulling ambient air back into the unit i think cooling capacity would be reduced - with 100 + temps i think it would take one helluva a/c unit to make you comfortable - but sitting the thing outside would solve any interior noise and condensate drainage problems and eliminate the need chop holes in your baby Good Luck - Ray Plumlee __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Thermasan
Boy, talk about a cause for Road Rage in the folks following you! ROTFL [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 5/8/2001 12:45:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My owner's manual shows a trailer hooked to a car. It says the control, sensing and incinerating portions of the Thermasan are located in your car, so apparently the system was usable in both trailer and motorhome applications. Hi Mary! Wow! Leave it to some ingenuity to get the job done:). Hopefully you keep all the windows closed while going down the road--no telling what might be on the front of the trailer. Yikes:) Scott http://members.aol.com/fantasticvent To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: The VACList reminder - List Office
Lefty, I unsubscribe from all of the busy lists when I travel because I can't depend on a reliable, daily connection. And, I don't want to deal with 300 messages (or more!) when I finally do connect. Actually, using Web-Based email and/or mailing lists can work out well while travelling because you can sometimes get Web access at a Library or other place where you cannot get your regular Email. However, during our trip last Winter, we had little trouble connecting every few days, using EarthLink and their nationwide phone number network. We were able to use our regular POPmail server, so didn't need to change our address or anything. And, we could connect for a few minutes to Get our mail, then do so again later or the next day to Send all of our mail. When you use Web-based mail, you must remain connected during all of your reading/writing, this is not always possible when you're using the C.G.'s phone line. Besides the fact that you don't want to intrude on their operation. Jim lefty frizzell wrote: I agree, Jim. I travel a lot and often cannot surf the web. But, I always get my email. Lefty Frizzell http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 9:38 AM To: Multiple recipients of VACList Subject: [VAC] Re: The VACList reminder - List Office John, The Email List is much easier for folks who participate in more than one discussion group. Everything is delivered to your mailbox in one swell foop, er.. fell swoop, when you first do a Get Mail. There is no need to go to a web site someplace, read the mail, then go to a different site for another group, etc. You're using YOUR mail client, so the interface is the same, no matter which group you're participating in at the moment. OTOH: You can read an online forum without any need to Subscribe, there is no need to Unsubscribe if you tire of the group, and (the best part!) there's all the old mail sitting there so you can get up to speed if you've just found the group. In fact, reading the old messages may convince you that you're not interested in the group at all. I've use YahooGroups in this manner. (preview and review) Given a choice, I'll always opt for the Subscribe type of discussion group, but I do like the Preview and Review features of the Web-based message board. The nice thing about YahooGroups is that they have BOTH options. Hunter's AirstreamList is hosted on YahooGroups, so you have the option with that group. Jim John R. Kleven wrote: I have wondered if anybody has considered going to a message board format. What are the benefits of a E-mail list over a message board? Great list in any format but... Thanks Randy I suspect that the volume of mail is starting to get overwhelming to some of the members of this list. We've had a subscription interface on the VAC website since last summer or fall that makes it really easy to manage your own VACList subscription preferences. please take a moment and review your options by clicking this link: http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If you want to be removed, remove yourself. If you want to PAUSE, pause yourself. If you want to switch to digest format, easy, digest yourself. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Electrical Independence
Sarah, Go to http://www.homepower.com and you might find those articles. I KNOW they've published them in the past and have them on their CD-ROMs. As Gerald J. says, all that's required is a mounting for the mower engine and alternator and a belt drive. Although this will work, it's not real efficient for charging deep-cycle batteries because of the way the regulator works. It will cut back the charge rate too quickly, making recharge of low batteries a long-time proposition. In one of the HP articles, they show how to control the alternator manually so you can prevent stalling the engine from the initial excessive load, then keep the charge rate relatively high until the battery is 70-80% charged, then taper it off. I believe that West Marine and perhaps Ample Power sells special alternator regulators that do this automatically, but they're fairly expensive. They also sell special heavy-duty alternators that will handle this kind of usage without failing. There's a bit more to it than meets the eye. :-) Jim Sarah Calhoun wrote: Jim: any clues about where these articles might reside (the web is a big place) -- or what an appropriate search phrase might be to locate the kits? It doesn't seem like it would be all that difficult, unless the lawnmower engine to car alternator connection is tricky for some reason? --Sarah Jim Clark wrote: Bob: There are some articles on the web about using a lawnmower type engine with a automotive style alternator to charge batteries and to drive an inverter for some fairly reasonable cost 110 vac at 2.00 to 3.00 per gal... I think you might be better off with the small engine... There are even kits available to take the misery out of building the device Good Luck Jim To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Electrical Independence/URL
Sarah, There is no comparison between a Honda genset and a lawnmower-powered outfit. The Honda will be much quieter, more fuel-efficient, and far less stinky. Jim Sarah Calhoun wrote: Thanks for the link, Jim, interesting article. I happen to have an old Briggs Stratton lawnmower that I don't use; unfortunately it's a vertical shaft and even the simple instructions for a horizontal shaft motor sound pretty complex after all, when you start thinking of all the details. My old mower is pretty noisy, and also stinky when it's running; I wouldn't want to be using it for any length of time. I assume a 3 hp lawnmower engine and a 3 hp generator would get about the same mileage in terms of gas consumption per watts generated, and also in the charging time? Also others have mentioned previously that the Honda is very quiet and clean in operation -- how would you compare it to an old putt-putt mower in noise stink? --Sarah -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Kink in the Road During Restoration
Jeff, I agree with Gerald J., get it TIG (or MIG) welded at a local shop. Strip off the skins and take them just the broken part(s). If you can't get it curved the way it must be when welded, make up a wooden form that you can strap the pieces to so it'll be right when done. Jim Jeff Griffin wrote: Hi Everyone: A recent discovery during the restoration of my 1968 Caravel threatens to stop the project in its tracks. I noticed that the door was not sealing. I thought is was bent. What I discovered was that the door frame is broken. Two cracks are evident, one on each side. Looks like the door opened in transit, smacked against the side, and broke. The previous owner did a horrible repair job of adding some heavy screws to the metal door cover! This stiffened the door a bit, but was a far cry from a respectable repair. Now I must determine if I can weld the door using a product like Durafix or AlumiWeld, or if (gasp!) I will have to replace the door. Anyone have any experience with a broken door frame. I'm looking for advice and encouragement on this segment of my project. Thanks Jeff -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Wanted - Opinions on Intelli-Power and StatPower TrueCharge
Oliver, I bought a StatPower 20 Smart Charger from the StatPower web site. It was a factory refurb and sold for quite a bit less than new, but had only a 30-day warranty, IIRC. It took me several months before I got around to installing it, then used it little or not at all due to my solar system. Last Winter, we took off on an extended trip and it failed about 2 weeks after getting on the road. Because of being on the road and needing a replacement, I elected to go with an Inteli-Power with Charge Wizard from Camping World. The StatPower worked fine before crapping out, and the Inteli-Power has been working great ever since. Both are true 3-stage chargers that will bring a 'low' battery back to 80% charged fairly quickly, then tapering off for the final charge. Both are silent in operation and very lightweight. Since having both, I much prefer the I.P. because it's easier to mount (doesn't have to be vertical) and has twice the output capabilities. It works exactly as advertised, pushing the voltage to 14.2 for the Bulk Charge, 13.8 for the finish charge, then dropping to 13.2 for maintainence. Once every 24 hours or so, it goes back to the 14.2 for 15 minutes to keep the electrolyte from stratifying. The StatPower has a manual button for the equalizing charge. There are others around, but that's what I'm familiar with from first-hand experience. Jim Carol and Oliver Filippi wrote: Dear VAC Contributors, There has been much discussion on modern smart charger replacements for the Univolt. I am trying to evaluate the best one to get. However, as I recall, there have been some members who have had failures with these new charger/converters. I would be very much interested in your experiences [good and bad] with these newer devices. How well do they hold up under the vibration and jolts experienced in traveling? How durable are they? How good is the manufacturer at standing behind his product? Please post your comments to the list or e-mail me directly. Thank you, Oliver Filippi -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Standard Airstream Trailer Hitch Connector???????
John, The standard RV connector that's most-common today is the 7-pin flat connector. If your new trailer has something different, it should be changed. (an easy job) Wiring pinout is in the Tech section at http://www.championtrailers.com Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greeetings, I am looking for a 60's to early 70's Airstream 17 to 23 feet. In the Boy Scout tradition I want to be prepared. Is there a universal trailer plug to truck wiring set up? Diameter, Round or flat pins (contacts), Number of pins, configuration?? My person that is putting on our hitch says we should know what kind of connector to have.. Any suggestions? John Semon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Transmission Oil Temp and Use of OD
Jim, You can get guages from Geno's Garage, http://www.genosgarage.com. The sending unit is a small tube that screws into a fitting where it is exposed to the transmission oil. I used a 3/4 X 3/8 brass reducer bushing, soldered onto the side of the transmission oil pan to mount the sending unit. There's one wire between that and the guage and the guage also has a connection for 12VDC from the ignition circuit. There's also a light in the guage that should be connected to the dash light circuitry. There's all sorts of mounts for the guage, I used an 'A Pillar' mount for the trans temp, exhaust temp, and turbo boost guages. I think that Geno's sells that setup, from AutoMeter. Jim Jim Greene wrote: Geven, I'd like to have a transmission oil temp gauge on my F-150 pickup with the factory transmission oil cooler. I haven't found a oil temperature gauge in local auto stores. Any suggested sources? Also, I'm still fuzzy about where I'd attach the sending unit. I assume it's an electrical connection form the sender to the dial in the cab. I like your idea of a fan to bring down the temp in those cases when I'm parking, going slow and the transmission hasn't locked up. Thanks, Jim Greene -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Questions on Uni-Volt
Mary, The UniVolt has nothing to do with the control panel, you just replace the UniVolt with a modern 3-stage converter/charger such as the Inteli-Power like I have. The only fly in the ointment is if your setup is one of those that incorporates the 12-volt branch circuit fuses into a panel in the UniVolt. If that's the case, you'll need to add a fuse panel of some sort; these are available from places like West Marine and probably even your local NAPA store. Some AirStreams have a switch for the UniVolt, mine had a seperate breaker feeding it. Unfortunately, the breaker was somewhat hard to access, being under the lavatory in the bathroom. Jim Mary K Welch wrote: After going back and looking through the older posts (that I have) on the Uni-Volt system, I have the following questions. If I decided to use a different charger/converter system than the UniVolt, is there a way not to lose the use of the Control Panel? If I keep the Uni-Volt (one of the 3 resistors on mine has a short, and assuming we can find a replacement, it should be possible to fix the system), is there a way to turn it off once the battery is at full charge, so the system doesn't cook the battery? Thanks for your help, Mary '72 Overlander To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Transmission Oil Temp and Use of OD
J.L., It isn't as simple as tapping a hole in the pan as the pan is sheetmetal and isn't thick enough for that. You need to add a tapped fitting. Although they probably make something commercially, I just soldered a brass pipe reducer bushing (from the local hardware store) to the side of the pan and screwed the sending unit into that. It might be better to silver solder it, but I was too lazy to fire up the acetylene torch and a bit afraid of warping the pan with the heat, so I just used soft solder. Anyway, if the oil gets hot enough to melt that, I probably have bigger problems anyway. There's two things you have to be careful of: the sending unit must not hit anything inside of the pan and it must not be directly under a bolt or you can't get the latter in. (don't ask how I know about that! grin) While I was at it, I soldered another fitting (3/4 X 1/4 reducing bushing) to the bottom of the pan to make it easier to drain the oil. The regular way to drain the oil is to remove all the bolts except for one, allowing the pan to drop down and the oil to run out...all over everything, missing your drain pan completely. Some say to put the sending unit in a 'Tee' fitting in the line going to the cooler, some say to put it in the line FROM the cooler, others say to put it in the pan. I figured that the oil in the pan is what the transmission is seeing, so that'd be best. Frankly, I don't think it makes just a whole lot of difference. Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim I have been inquiring about tranny temp. gauges. The only place I have found them was thru speed shops. Prices range from $50.00 to over $200.00 The ones in the know say to put it directly in the pan. One fellow said to cut the line to the cooler and plumb it there, but the overwhelming wisdom's say in the pan. I have had more trouble finding someone to drop the pan and tap a hole to install the thing than finding one. J.L.Dietz #4361 S.E. PA -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Questions on Uni-Volt
Mary, I stand corrected, my Airstream had a power light, but it was fed from the 115VAC line, right at the control panel. If yours is to indicate that you're connected to shore power, you should be able to feed it from the 115VAC source at the UniVolt area. I have an old UniVolt V laying around here and I just looked at it. It has 4, 3AG size branch circuit fuses, one smaller fuse for the power light, and 2 large fuses for Trailer Battery + and Car Battery. There's also a shunt in the - line that is for the ammeter in the control panel. If I were replacing one of these, I'd be tempted to remove that fuse panel and mount it in some sort of enclosure and keep the connections as-is. If I deemed it too much trouble to find an enclosure of some sort, I'd replace it with a different style of aftermarket fuse panel. You can get various-sized NEMA enclosures from electrical supply houses; one of those might be just the ticket for mounting that old fuse panel, using some sort of standoffs between the box and the fiber fuse panel. Do use enough standoffs to support the panel against the pressure required to insert/remove the fuses. You'll like the modern converter/chargers like the Inteli-Power, they're much smaller than the old UniVolt and weigh almost nothing; the I-P is less than 5# and is rated at 40 or 45 amps. Best of all, they're silent, no Airstream buzz. grin Jim Mary K Welch wrote: Hmmm, Jim. I was going on information from this post: I'm just tuning into this discussion and missed any previous info. My univolt stopped charging. I called BR Wholesale (800-848-0934) and sent it to them to rebuild. It cost $30 each way to send it because it's so heavy and about $100 to rebuild. Not only that, I cut my arms up while contorting myself while getting the thing out - I swear they built the trailer around it. Now, it overcharges and dries up the cells - I don't blame BR Wholesale, they told me up front I was taking a chance. So... this spring I'll be getting something new. I'll be watching this string to get the advice I have so many times depended upon in other matters. I've been told that my univolt has the fuse box attached to it. For that reason it will be necessary for me to a) install a new fuse box or b) use the old one from the univolt and attach it somewhere close. I will loose the power light from my control panel because new units do not have a terminal from which to run the wire. -Original Message- From: Jim Dunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of VACList [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sunday, May 06, 2001 3:45 PM Subject: [VAC] Re: Questions on Uni-Volt Mary, The UniVolt has nothing to do with the control panel, you just replace the UniVolt with a modern 3-stage converter/charger such as the Inteli-Power like I have. The only fly in the ointment is if your setup is one of those that incorporates the 12-volt branch circuit fuses into a panel in the UniVolt. If that's the case, you'll need to add a fuse panel of some sort; these are available from places like West Marine and probably even your local NAPA store. Some AirStreams have a switch for the UniVolt, mine had a seperate breaker feeding it. Unfortunately, the breaker was somewhat hard to access, being under the lavatory in the bathroom. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Questions on Uni-Volt
Bob, That sounds very elegant, will you share some pictures when you're done? Jim Bob Basques wrote: I'm in the process of installing the Intelli-Pwoer unit in my trailer, I justy tore out the fuse panel from the Univolt and Bought a box to place it in, so I can just keep using the old panel for everything. I even get to keep the ammeter. I've got the old one out, I'm building a drawer for accessing the new unit by, everything will be in the drawer under the stove. Just pull out the drawer to get at all of the charger/convertor stuff. I've got the base built, and next is the drawer itself. bobb Jim Dunmyer wrote: -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Generator
Rich, Michigan has a line on the income tax form for us to enter the amount ($$$) of stuff purchased out-of-state so we can pay the sales tax on it. This law has been in effect for many, many years, but is just now starting to be enforced. Buying something like an A/S is taken care of at title transfer time, of course. Jim Richard K. Walbridge Sr. wrote: f you lived in Virginia, you would have to declare the out of state generator No kidding? Kinda takes the thrill out of mail order. I wonder if this is the future of all states or did Virginia run out of things to tax? When making purchases online in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, there is a sales tax when there is a branch of that company you are purchasing from within the Commonwealth. (We are a commonwealth like Virginia). Rich Walbridge #3371 To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Brake Controller
Bobby, There's probably only a couple of brake manufacturers, Dexter and Hayes come to mind. There's quite a few more controller manufacturers. Most electric brakes draw a maximum of 3 amps per wheel, no matter who made them, and the controllers are rated accordingly. You'll see some that are rated at 12 amps (2 axles) and some that are rated higher for tri-axle trailers. Go to Tom Patterson's archives at http://www.tompatterson.com for several discussions on brakes and controllers over the years. Bobby wrote: I have been reading all the post on brake controllers, and seem to be somewhat confussed by all the different brands available. My impression was that the controller should be the same type/manufacture as my brakes. Is this correct? From what I have been reading from the list, it doesn't seem to matter who makes it. Which is correct? -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Removing rivets and runst screws
Jeff, Drill out the pop rivets with a 1/8 drill. Most of the screws will either loosen (surprisingly!) or you'll twist off the heads. MAKE SURE that your screwdriver fits the head and is in good shape or you'll cause yourself unnecessary work. Jim Jeff Griffin wrote: Hi everyone: Could you please advise me on the best tools and procedures for removing rivets and rusty screws in order to remove the skins from the belly of my AS. Thanks in Advance Jeff -- Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Hydraulic brake controllers
Harvey, Locking the front wheels of your vehicle will certainly cause you to loose your steering, but isn't otherwise nearly as dangerous as locking the rear wheels or those of the trailer. Doing the latter will cause you the rig to swap ends almost instantly, which is why a half-ABS outfit always has the half on the rear wheels only. If you want a real thrill, find an ice-covered parking lot, get your vehicle rolling about 20 MPH, and jam on the parking brake. Jim Harvey Barlow wrote: The additional weight contributed by the tongue weight of the trailer will provide better traction at the rear wheels of your tow vehicle and the combination of tow vehicle and trailer brakes properly synchronized should prevent front brake lock-up in all but the most extreme white-knuckle panic stop with trailer brakes locked also. Joy said: and my van is a hybrid - only ABS for the rear! You know, the kind where the rear won't lock up; however, the front will and you lose steering and take my Safari with it. :( -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Brake controllers
Scott (and Bob), Champion Trailers is at http://www.championtrailers.com FWIW: I inquired at Can-Am RV about the Hayes hydraulic brake controllers and was told sorry, no more, but we do have an equivilant Warner hydraulic/electric controller for $179.00 (Can). My reply was please send me one, here's my MasterCard #. Can-Am's URL is http://www.can-am-rv.com and the parts person is Sandi, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jim Scott Scheuermann wrote: About the wiring harness, wire it in the modern configuration. If it does not match how your trailer is wired, open up the trailer's plug and change a couple of connections so that it does match modern, this way you will be able to tow any other travel trailer without rewiring. Since you will be needing the plug for the truck's end, you may want to go ahead and get a new one on the trailer's end. If the other trailers that you are talking about are horse, boat or utility trailers there is a 7 to 4 adapter that just plugs in to your truck that allows the lights on these trailers to work without rewiring. Assuming that your truck is wired to modern. I believe that Champion Trailers has a diagram online on trailer plugs, but I do not remember the URL. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Brake controllers
Bob, In essence, the hydraulic brake controllers that we've been talking about have a tiny hydraulic cylinder that is fed from the vehicle's brake system. That cylinder controls a variable resistor to send current to the Brake wire in the 7-pin connector. There may or may not (ususally isn't) a junction box ANYWHERE, but if there is, it's not normally at the rear. FWIW:, NAPA sells a real nice junction box with terminal posts that's actually designed for this application. It's about 4 X 7 X 1.5 high, black, with grommeted holes. I wired a long piece of trailer cable (7-conductor, with various wire guage sizes) to my 7-pin socket. Mounted the socket on the hitch frame, made a loop of cable under the truck so wire is available to repair/replace the connector in the future, then ran the remainder along the frame, up the LH inner fender, and into the junction box. Used lots and lots of Ty-Raps to secure the cable. The wires from my lighting isolator box (Hoppy brand, came from JC Whitney, but NAPA should be able to get one), the brake controller, and the solenoid-type isolator relay (for the charge wire), plus a heavy ground all go into the J-box. The lighting isolator gets its power from the battery through a fuse or automatic-reset circuit breaker and is triggered by the LH and RH signals and the taillight circuits on the truck. This little gadget totally isolates the trailer lights from the vehicle's so that I have no worries about overloading the light switch, no need for a heavy duty signal flasher, etc. Even a direct short someplace in the trailer or associated wiring will leave my vehicle lights operational. A side benefit to this arrangement is that I make NO connections under my truck. I've done this in the past and find it to be a trouble area in the future as road salt and moisture do their thing. No More. This is a bit more work than the way most folks do it, but gives me an installation that is as close to bullet proof as it can be. Jim Bob Kiger wrote: At 09:46 AM 5/2/01 -0400, you wrote: Bob, I don't think that you understand. The brake controllers we have been talking about are hydraulically activated brake units that send an electric signal to your trailer's electric brakes. Because of this it is compatible with any trailer that has electric brakes. About yesterday I got the understanding of how hydraulic brake controller send an electrical signal. They must have a junction box near the rear that has the wires necessary to go into the seven pin plug. Thanks Bob -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Removing rivets and rusty screws
Gerald, Our local True Value Hardware has SS sheetmetal (and machine) screws by the box, and they're not all that expensive. Maybe 5 or 7 bucks for a box of 100 in #6 or #8 size, I'm not sure anymore. You're right about a rotary file, I avoid them if possible. Harbor Freight, et. al. carry those 3 air cutoff tools for cheap, about 20 bucks in some cases, never more than 50. Dunno if they have electric versions, but I can't imagine using anything but air anyway. :-) Jim Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote: Stainless steel hardware can be expensive unless bought in bulk from places like McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). In the ham radio magazines there are a few dealers who specialize in stainless steel hardware for antenna construction. I dislike rotary files. I have one or two and have used them with an air die grinder. They did remove metal. They removed it in sharp slivers that accumulated in my skin when ever I touched the work bench for weeks afterwards. I prefer small grinding bits and wheels and particularly a cut off wheel. Its peripheral speed that grinds, and a 1/4 diameter wheel has to turn at ungodly speeds to be more effective than sandpaper, but a 3 cut off disk can do great work at 15,000 or 20,000 rpm in the dremel or die grinder. Dunmyer of this list recommends the air operated cut off tool that has more guarding than the plain die grinder for use with the cut off disks. A 1/16 thick cutting disk can take a screw head off by splitting it down the middle rapidly. And with care without marking the work the screw head held (much). -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Need another perspective
Terry, 1. Get the 2 White and 2 Black wires connected that feed the ceiling fan 6 feet away. Verify its operation. 2. Connect the White wire from the light fixture to the 2 White wires in #1 above. 3. Connect the Black wire that goes to the switch to the 2 Black wires in #1 above. 4. Connect the White wire from the switch to the Black wire on the new light fixture. If I'm counting correctly, that's 8 wires. It'll work, guaranteed. Jim Terry Tyler wrote: Well, I've finally challenged myself to the point where - what I thought I knew how to do - doesn't do what I want to do. I need someone to provide a fresh perspective. It's an electrical problem. In our '67 22' Safari, I removed the center ceiling light and carefully marked the wires that went into each of two wire nuts. I noticed there were more wires in one large wire nut than the other smaller wire nut. My objective was to replace that light fixture with a fluorescent light fixture. Simple enough, have done such jobs many times. Here's the rub. After trying several combinations of re-connecting wires, I can't get the switch above the entry door to activate the center ceiling light (like it used to do before I removed it). I can re-connect the wires so the fan will run and I can re-connect the wires so the ceiling light will light, but I haven't been able to re-connect the wires so the fan, the ceiling light and the switch above the entry door will work (after all the wires are stuffed back into the ceiling). AND - in my cavalier attitude, I used a non-permanent marking pen to mark the wires - which has since rubbed off. AND - with dark approaching on the afternoon I did the job, I foolishly rushed the disassembly. As a result, I don't recall how many wires went into each wire nut, other than to remember one wire nut was larger and had more wires in it than the other smaller wire nut. The next day, when I went back to finish - what I thought I knew how to do - didn't work. This is my third day trying to systematically re-connect the wire nuts in different combinations. Obviously, I've tripped the fuse several times (which told me I had the wrong combination). Background: 1 - There are six wires protruding from the ceiling. Three are black and three are white. There is a black and a white wire coming out of the light fixture. All in all, there are 8 wires to re-connect. One specific black wire is live and will light up my test lamp when I touch the test lamp's other probe to one specific white wire. The other two black wires and two white wires show no current whatsoever. Even re-connecting the live black wire to either of the other two white wires does not light the test lamp. 2 - I have identified one black and one white wire that feeds a ceiling vent fan six feet away. I did that by re-connecting the known black live wire to the black wire that goes to the fan - and by re-connecting the known white ground wire to the white wire that goes to the fan. After doing that, the switch on the fan activates the fan. Without those four wires connected, the fan switch does not activate the fan. 3 - There is one white and one black wire from the actual lighting fixture that must be connected to the six wires protruding from the hole in the ceiling (for the lighting fixture to have power to light the bulbs). 4 - I have identified one black and one white wire that feeds the switch over the entry door. I did that by re-connecting the known black live wire to the black wire that goes to the switch - and by re-connecting the known white ground wire to the white wire that goes to the switch. After doing that and including the light fixture's white and black wires inside the wire nut, the switch will turn on or off the center ceiling light fixture when the knob is set for one bulb to light. Thus and therefore: The question of the day is: Which of the 8 wires do I connect into the large wire nut and which of the 8 wires do I connect into the smaller wire nut so that: a - I can turn on and off the overhead ceiling light by turning the knob in the light fixture, b - I can turn on and off the ceiling vent fan independently of whether or not the ceiling light is lit or - whether or not the switch at the entry door is turned on or off, and c - I can turn on and off the center ceiling light with the switch above the entry door (after the ceiling light knob is set for one bulb to be lit). All of these combinations used to work before I disassembled the light fixture in preparation for installing a fluorescent fixture. I need another perspective. The ones I'm using aren't cutting the mustard. It has to be something simple or one of my conclusions is invalid. I've walked away from the trailer and tried to sketch the options on a sheet of paper. There is something I'm missing. Perplexed, Terry
[VAC] Re: Brake controllers
Dan, Thank you very much for the feedback on the Warner controller! I've heard others say nice things about their dealings with Can-Am RV, so feel pretty good about dealing with them. Besides, I like their WebSite with the treatise on hitching. That should be Required Reading for all those who are new to towing a travel trailer. I'm probably closer to London, ON than you are, but will install the controller myself anyway. Jim Rev. Daniel M. Osterhout wrote: Jim others on the list: I had Can Am install the Warner hydraulic on my tow vechile in February --- they also did some other work for me too. Great group of folks and I was very happy with their work. Andy Thompson is the owner John is in charge of service. I'm happy - plus the exchange rate US vs Candain was $1.56 the day I had my work done. Big plus for us here in the US. Dan 1977 Safari #4495 PS - I drove 350 miles one way from PA to London, ON for their service department! FWIW: I inquired at Can-Am RV about the Hayes hydraulic brake -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] O.T. newspaper article
There's an article in today's Toledo Blade (4/30), featuring yours truly. Go to: http://www.toledoblade.com and click on New concealed weapons law stirs debate in Michigan. Jim -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: converter charger
Roy, I have the Inteli-Power converter/charger with the Charge Wizard that makes it into a 3-stage charger. It's great, I like it a lot. Weighs 5# and is silent to boot. Jim alphacomp wrote: HI All Could someone recommend a replacement converter charger, 20 to 30 amps would be all I need, This 60 lb 70amp Bee hive in the back of my camper is over kill and not a good charger. Roy Debbie Lupien 1971 Safari http://alphacomposite.homestead.com/home.html T -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: O.T. newspaper article
Bill, Write to your legislators, now and often in the future. It's being considered in Columbus as we speak. I'm gonna get a CCW license, but will probably never carry. As I said in the article, I figure it could lead to less hassle if I ever get stopped with my guns in the car/truck. I'm starting to get active in shooting again, so it's an issue. Jim William D. Kirkendall wrote: - Congratulations Jim. Now you are celebrity or on a FBI list to watch. Now if Ohio would get off their butts and pass a right to carry. Meanwhile nobody had better break into my Airstream, if you know what I mean. Keep up the good work. Bill -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Canvas
Mark, You should have a local shop that makes boat covers. Jim Weimers wrote: Does anyone know a good source for canvas? I'm looking to make an awning for my '63. I already made an awning using cheap polyethylene tarps. I did this so I'd have a pattern for the expensive canvas tarp material. I'd prefer something that looks like the blue Zip Dee blue and white stripe canvas. With me, low cost is always my primary concern! Thanks MARC WEIMER Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog #15767 1963 Globe Trotter 1971 Globe Trotter http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: What kind of Generator??
Dana, A friend has a couple of those Honda 1000-watt inverter-type gensets and loves them. They weigh about 30# or so and SIP the fuel. They're also very, very quiet. You can also daisy-chain a pair of 'em for more power if you need it, something that's very unusual. Downside is that they're not real cheap, I think around $850.00 (don't quote me on that!). Jim Dana Kelley wrote: Need quite generator to plug A/S into. Don't want to run airconditioner. Just need to chg battery via Magnatec converter, use lights and 12 volt TV. Every thing else is butane. I'm thinking about a 1850 Coleman that Sam's has, or the Honda 1000 that's quite. Didn't want to spend a lot of money. I might need a larger one though. Can anyone give me some ideas? I don't want to go solar, the generator would be helpful around home too. DSK in TEXAS -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: What kind of Generator??
Dana, You'll probably be better off using the DC output to charge the battery, as most standard converters really aren't very good battery chargers. You might consider replacing the old converter with a modern outfit that incorporates (or simply IS) a 3-stage charger. I use an Inteli-Power with the Charge Wizard myself, but there are a couple of others out there also. If you're trying to charge a low battery with the Magnatec, it'll take hours and hours because the typical charge rate of those things is only 3-4 amps. The Inteli-Power will charge at 30+ amps when a battery is low and replace most of the juice in 4 or 5 hours of genset runtime. IIRC, the Honda genset that I mentioned has an 8-amp 12VDC output, so that'll recover your typical daily consumption in 5 hours or so, depending on your usage. As I've said several times during solar power discussions, EVERYTHING must start with a chart of your daily usage, all else follows from that. Although you specifically said that you didn't want to consider solar panels, if you plan a lot of boondocking, you might want to rethink that position. If you're figuring on only a couple of trips/year, and can use the generator around home, then you're on the right track. You are correct on your volts, amps, and watts power conversion. Volts X Amps = Watts. Jim Dana Kelley wrote: Dana, A friend has a couple of those Honda 1000-watt inverter-type gensets and loves them. They weigh about 30# or so and SIP the fuel. They're also very, very quiet. You can also daisy-chain a pair of 'em for more power if you need it, something that's very unusual. Jim, I'll probably get that Honda because you can paralle two together. Do you know if I can plug my trailer into it? I'll just be using it for the Magnatec converter, which charges the battery too or should I just go straight to charging the battery? I'll just be using lights and the 12 volt 13 TV. Since the 1000 watt is so small I'll have to ck on the amps my converter draws. To convert amps to watts I think you have to multipy the amps X the volts=WATTS. I sure don't want to buy something that's usless to me. DSK in TEXAS -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: LEDs
Dan, I found it interesting that this fella does NOT recommend LED lighting for general use, but would stick with the good ol' fluorescents. The other site, the ledmuseum, has some very interesting info on LED flashlights. I've ordered a couple of those keychain jobs from the URL that was posted here a few days ago. If I were doing a lot of 'remote' camping, I'd get a couple of real flashlights with LED 'bulbs' because of the tremendous battery savings. It appears that some very good flashlights are available for around $30.00 (up to more than $100.00!), and there's a PR3 replacement 'bulb' for a 3, C-cell MagLight. For now, I'll stick with fluorescent fixtures in the trailer where there's heavy usage and smaller incandescent bulbs in some of the other fixtures. And, we'll watch the usage carefully so as to not tax the batteries too much. The eMeter from Jade Mountain helps a lot in that regard. Between that and testing the batteries with a load tester a couple of times a year, I don't expect nasty surprises and we should have all the electricity we need. Jim Dan Weeks wrote: Thanks, Jim, for yet another one of your cogent digests of the state of the art! Dan Weeks 75 Argosy 26 (stock lighting + a flourescent) David, From the pioneer.net link: -- --- In summary, if I were equipping a remote cabin with lighting, I'd be using low voltage fluorescent fixtures at this point in time. -- --- Jim David Sawicki wrote: Take a look at the following websites for more info on LEDs: http://www.pioneernet.net/optoeng/LED_FAQ.html http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/reserved.htm -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Unique Airstream sighting
Jere, I've seen something similar in the flea market area at the Portland, IN engine show in August. It belongs to a vendor, who has totally gutted the interior, added a door across the entire rear, and uses it to haul his goodies from one show to another. Although it's unique and no doubt useful, it makes a purist cry. sniffle Jim jere potter wrote: Wished I'd had my camera to take a pic, but what makes it unique, is that it has very few, if any windows, and the whole back end of the thing is hinged to form a 'hatch that seems to swing upwards to open the whole back end. It's really more than just a hatch door, really about the last quarter of the body. I have never seen it open, but remember trying to figure out this as i saw it previously on bicycle, behind a fence. I imagine one could load a lot of stuff easily into a rig like this. I will attempt to get a picture of it that I can post for all to see. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Hydro Flame Pilot Won't Stay Lit
Jeff, One manual you definitely want to get (and Joy mentioned it) is Livingston's RV Maintenance and Repair. It's available almost anywhere, including from Camping World, and is worth every penny. He covers the most-common RV components in some detail, fridges, water pumps, furnaces, water heaters, etc. These things are not unique to AirStream, but are used by everyone in the industry. Because the book isn't oriented towards one particular manufacturer, he must generalize in some areas. This is actually a good thing because he has to explain HOW the systems work in general, so you can figure out exactly how yours is configured. This leads to more understanding on your part. I'm talking specifically about things like the plumbing and electrical systems. If you have very much experience with these things, an A/S is quite straightforward. If you've always been one of those who takes it for granted that water flows when you open a faucet and the light comes on when you flick the switch, you'll be enlightened as to the magic behind the walls and under the counters, it'll no longer be a mystery. One other book that's very good is Barre's Managing 12 Volts. This covers electrical systems as used on RVs and boats in some detail, with lots of very good general information, material on solar systems, etc. If you get heavy into modifying your electrical system, Moller's book on RV electrical systems is very good, especially for their ideas on the 120VAC side of things, use of inverters, etc. Jim Jeff Griffin wrote: Joy: Would the '72 service manual be applicable to my '68 Caravel, if so I'll order it. Thanks Jeff From: Mr. Joy H. Hansen Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of VACList Subject: [VAC] Re: Hydro Flame Pilot Won't Stay Lit Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:47:25 -0400 Jeff, If you order the '72 service manual from Secretarial Services and purchase Livingston's book RV Repair and Maintenance Manual all your questions will be answered! '69 Safari, Joy -- Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Transmission Oil Temp and Use of OD
Mark, I've seen all kinds of recommendations on where to place the temperature probe for your trans temp guage, including strapping it onto the dipstick tube. Mine is in the pan because that was easier than installing a 'Tee' fitting in a cooler line, and one theory says that the pan is the best place because that's the temperature that the transmission sees. It won't be cool because cool fluids sink; the oil is circulating fast enough that it's all pretty much the same temp, or at least close enough. In fact, you would probably have seen the overheating condition in your transmission had the probe been in the pan instead of the return line. If I was to place it in a cooler line, I think I'd put it in the line TO the cooler. You're right about heating the trans quickly when maneuvering at a campsite, and I'll bet most folks would never guess that this is a dangerous situation. One usually thinks of pulling a hill as being dangerous for trans temps. The most important thing is to have a trans temp guage and monitor it. The exact location of the pickup probably isn't that important, but I wouldn't have it in the cooler return in any event. Jim Weimers wrote: The gauge I bought told me to tee into the return transmission cooler line. I did that about 2 inches from my transmission. I'm not sure that is the best location, but that's what they recommended, so I went with it. It's surprising how fast the fluid temperature zooms up towards the danger zone when you are maneuvering the trailer on a hilly campsite! My transmission was still able to overheat even though the gauge didn't necessarily show it. I had a problem with low pressure in my transmission due to a maladjusted pressure control valve. This caused a very slow flow through the torque converter and the transmission cooler. The fluid apparently overheated in the torque converter. This happened on long uphill runs. The gauge didn't always tell me things were too hot. Suddenly, the transmission fluid would start to pour out the transmission onto the ground (out the vent). I think it's because my transmission fluid was boiling in the torque converter. The slow fluid flow allowed the fluid to cool sufficiently in my nice large transmission cooler so that the gauge didn't show the extreme temperature. If I had put the gauge on the outgoing cooling line on the transmission maybe I would have seen the problem better. I'm guessing, however. Incidentally, I tried hooking the gauge up to the bottom of the sump of the transmission and it only showed cool temperatures. Cool fluids sink! My transmission has been fine since the pressure was turned up. The front of my Airstream still has spots on it from all the transmission fluid blown all over it! (On the bright side, my steel parts aren't rusty!) Maybe somebody has some comments on this?? MARC WEIMER Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog #15767 1963 Globe Trotter 1971 Globe Trotter http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html - Original Message - From: Jim Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of VACList [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 7:44 PM Subject: [VAC] Transmission Oil Temp and Use of OD Jim, I'm slow reading my mail due to travel. How would you install a transmission oil temp gauge? I'd like to install one on my F-150 pickup. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Transmission Oil Temp and Use of OD
Jim, I find it very hard to believe that there are no parts for your friend's transmission. In fact, I think it's Federal law that manufacturers must make parts available for a minimum of 10 years. At worst, he should be able to get the soft parts in a kit and rebuild a tranny from a salvage yard if he's smoked some of the hard parts in his own unit. Unfortunately, most P/U transmissions aren't much more than automobile units, perhaps beefed up just a bit. I'm told that the tranny in my Dodge is basically an old Chrysler TorqueFlite with a compounder (overdrive) housing tacked onto the rear of the thing. My Dodge manual covers all the automatic transmissions used in 1994 pickups, and there's really not much difference between the ones in a 1/2-ton and the units running behind the V-10 gas engine in a 3/4-ton truck. An extra clutch plate here, stronger spring there, etc., but basically the same darn thing to the untrained eye. Most rebuild steps are common to all of 'em. Many transmission shops will tell you that automatics used in towing service should be overhauled at 100,000 miles or before. Yes, I know that many/most of 'em go much longer than that, but that's what the 'Pros' will say. The clutch disks in my transmission were worn quite a bit, most noticable when checking clearances in the clutch packs. Yeah, they looked like new, but the clearances were much larger with the old than after installing the replacements, especially in the OD unit. It makes sense to me that driving habits will affect transmission life also. A lead foot while accellerating, especially with a heavy load or trailer puts a helluva strain on things during shifting. If I need to get 'er up to speed in a hurry, I'll generally allow it to upshift to 3rd, then jam my foot into the injection pump. Once up to 50 or 60 MPH, I lift my foot and allow the upshift to 4th, then TCC lock under a much lighter load. Dunno if it helps, but I've SEEN those shitty little parts that are carrying the torque of that big ol' engine. My reason for using that description is because I've also been inside of old tractor transmissions that were meant to carry less than 50 HP. They have HUGE gears by comparison, but are meant to carry full load for hours on end, year after year. Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a friend who had a 1993 chev crew cab duly turbo dirsel. it now has 42kmiles on it when he bought it he was told that he could tow in OD the 1sr transmition died in very short order when towing a 40ft 5th wheel.transmition was replaced and he sold the trailer and bought a motor home. he kept the truck to use as a utillity vechile. just recently the second transmition would not shift the shop told him that due to the age of the truck that parts fot the transmition were no longer avalable.and a new transmition for the turbo Diesel would be $11000 It dont sound resonable to me . I can believe the transmition failier as I had 1983 6.2 diesel Suberan 3/4ton in 165k miles it had 3 replacement transmitions I dumped it when the last one died these were turbo400 3 speed transmitions. I have what is possably the mistaken ida that trucks work vechiles and were made to haul things and pull things I wonder what is wrong with American products as I have a nisson auto with 169kmiles on it and still has the origional transmition with no trouble. Jim Smith To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: I finally got an Airstream!
Mary, I have no favorite for the battery, so you're on your own there. As to the pigtail, I'd recommend that you change the one on the van to a Bargman-style 7-prong connector, the kind with the flat pins. The A/S may have that style on it already, or it may have a different type. My '68 had the flat-pin job, but my buddy's '86 has the round pin type. But, the modern standard seems to be the 7-pin flat style, so you might as well update it now. The usual caveats about getting the wheel bearings checked/packed and brakes checked out before travelling apply, of course. Jim Mary K Welch wrote: I've been lurking on the list for a couple of months now, and after looking at a number of Airstreams and Argosy's, I just made arrangements to purchase a 1972 Overlander. The owner purchased it new from the Airstream dealership in Kernersville, NC. It was made in California. At 27 ft., it's a bit longer than I'd have liked. My van is an extended length, so it's going to be a bit daunting at first driving the pair the first few times. My first question. I need to replace the battery. Do you guys recommend a particular brand? I'll try to get some photos up on my web site when I get it home (that's going to be an adventure in itself). Oh, yes, and to get it home, I have to replace the 6 prong adapter on my van to the Airstream 7 prong one. Can someone tell me the part number of the correct receptacle? Thanks, Mary -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Electrical panel
Walt, The neutral should NOT be connected to ground in your trailer, never, ever. You just described the reason. Reversing the polarity is "not good", but if the neutral isn't grounded in the trailer, you really shouldn't get even a tickle. The main reason to even be concerned is if you have an appliance that shorts the neutral to ground somehow; with proper polarity, there's no consequence. Otherwise "ZZZA", as you say. Jim "Sanderson W. Sandy" wrote: Subject: [VAC] Electrical panel Nick, That little red light is indeed the polarity indicator. If it glows red, you have reversed the Hot and Neutral infeeds. What this means is your trailer skin and chassis (to which all things are grounded, including Neutral) will be HOT, or energised. Contact with same, depending on how isolated you are from ground (or Earth as the rest of the world calls it) best case: dry desert sand, thick soled rubber soled shoes, you might feel a tingle when standing outside and touching the trailer. Worst case: barefoot, at the beach, standing in a puddle of salt water...ZZZA. I have heard (only anecdotal) stories of pets fried when transitioning between trailer and outdoors, so far I've only filed them in my "urban legends/camping" archives. To see if it works, use a "cheater" plug (2 prong with a ground tab to be connected to the outlet) and reverse the power cord. the light should glow red. I've checked mine and it does work. Walt Sandy S. W. Sandy WBCCI # 4159 VAC Region 2 VAC Representative 1970 27' Overlander South West New Jersey Mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: sewer hookups
John, Go to http://www.timberman.com and look at his pages, he has a list of exactly what you need. Except you need a Thetford adaptor to connect to your discharge valve. Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello - As a newbie, I have what may seem like a silly question. I have a 60's airstream, and am getting it ready for a trip. There are no sewer hoses or hookups with it -- Could someone please tell me what to buy: from the ground all the way up to the hookup on the trailer? Also, I've read about the sewer solution -- could this be used for hookups in campgrounds -- or is it only for dumping at dump stations? Thanks - John -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Smoke Tears
Bob, Valve covers dare NOT be overtightened, and there's a torque spec for most of 'em. You have the procedure correct, but the cover must start out flat. A hammer and small block of iron will make it that way if it's been warped from overtightening. Jim Bob Kiger wrote: I My Quick Question is, "When valve or pan gaskets are installed with cork gaskets they are not supposed to be torqued down. They are supposed to be tightened uniformly and snugly? Then, in a follow up visit, they are supposed to be uniformly snugged tighter to further compress the gasket and seal." Am I right or wrong. The shop does not say that I am wrong and are in fact putting it on the rack soon. I just need to know if my premise is correct as a defense in case they get testier :) -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Invertors / transformers
Bob, The only downside I can think of is that you'll now need a cord, and a decent sized one at that, probably #14 guage. The drill might run a bit slower also. Be sure to get the polarity correct or you'll probably let all of the factory smoke out of the drill. You could and probably should break out your meter and do some experiments. I don't think that charging the batteries for your portable appliances from an inverter will be all THAT inefficient. First of all, you're usually using shore power anyway, and things like the drill are unlikely to be used in a boondocking situation. At least enough to need a battery charge before being able to reconnect. It looks to me like you're considering going to a lot of trouble for darn little (if any) energy savings. Jim Bob Kiger wrote: Jim, What's the downside of connecting the cordless drill battery charger directly to the coach (or other) battery, other than cutting the wire between the transformer and the charger? I'll check out the RS convertors for the lower voltage appliances. Thanks Bob At 07:22 PM 4/19/01 -0400, you wrote: Bob, Radio Shack sells voltage converters for 12VDC - lower voltages. I'd try the 14.4 volt drill directly, also the cordless phone, by connecting them to your 12 volt battery. Use the RS converter for your answering machine. Jim -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: DC TV's
Brian, Nearly all of the "solar" sites have an AH chart similar to the one you found at RVSolar. Pick one and go with it. Before charting your usage, you need to actually measure the consumption of your various appliances and lights, then estimate how many hours/day each will operate. Your DVM, set on the 10-amp scale will work fine to measure the draw, just be very careful to run only one device at a time. Simply disconnect one of your main battery leads and connect the meter in series, then turn on each light, the pump, the furnace, your small inverter (both loaded and unloaded), etc., ONE AT A TIME, and record the number. Round to the nearest .1 amp, closer than that is not necessary. This will require no more than 30 minutes of your time, believe it or not, and you'll be WAY ahead of the folks who are guessing, discussing, rehashing, and so on. Put your numbers in your chart, just as shown in the examples on the Web sites. Now, put the AH output from your solar panel(s) in the chart. A 100-amp panel will have a peak output of slightly more than 5 amps, and you can expect to see that much for a maximum of 4 hours per day, plus half that for another 4 hours. That's a total of 30 AH/day. Although that's my estimate, it's actually pretty close to personal experience. Note that we're assuming sunny days, it'll be next to nothing on a dreary day. If you're exceeding 30 AH/day in usage, your battery has to make up the difference. But, let's put that into the chart also. Your 3 batteries will give you about 250 AH max, or 125 AH if you try to never draw them below 50% charge. Let's say that you're using 60 AH/day, giving you a 30 AH/day deficit. You can still operate for 4 days before running your battery bank lower than is prudent, twice as long as without the solar panel. You might well look at your camping lifestyle and figure out that 4 or 5 days is the maximum time you will spend away from shore power and realize that you're all set. Of course, an eMeter or equivilant will help you track usage and give you a real-time readout on the state of your batteries. You might consider adding a good 3-stage charger/converter to your setup, especially if you plan on being out for a long time and using your generator to charge the batteries. A regular converter will charge the batteries so slowly as to be almost useless in this situation, but a 3-stage charger can put a very useful amount of juice into them in 4 or 5 hours of run-time. The small 1000-watt Hondas with the inverters are very quiet and very fuel-efficient and should do the job nicely. We use about 30 AH/day, being wastrels next to Sherry, but frugal compared to many others. Our 2, 75-watt panels can easily provide that amount of power and more. The eMeter has proven out the system, showing the batteries as "full" by shortly after noon most days. The one thing that could hurt us is if we had to run the furnace very much and the days were dreary. The furnace draws over 4 amps and runs quite a bit, so it really contributes to the AH consumption. Our TV is tiny, but draws only 1 amp. The 9" TV that I'd kinda like to have draws 4 amps, so would add at least 9 AH/day to our usage if we watch it for 3 hours/day. That's nearly 1/3 more total than at present! It sounds to me like you're all set in the power department. If you're interested, I'll tell you about my solution for the water problem. :-) Jim brian ganoe wrote: Jim, I have used the amp/hours chart at rvsolar. Are here others online that are more useful? I ultimately plan on a 3 battery bank with at least a 100 watt solar panel. This will all be supplimented with a small generator. I now have a 2KW unit but look to get a lightweight 1KW unit in the near future. We have no ac or microwave and I have installed a catalytic heater so the furnace blower will not draw current except when really cold. I have installed some flourescent lighting and am intrigued by the led talk. With the resources we will have and a frugal energy lifestyle it shows we can be out along time. I figure water will be more the limiting factor than power or my wife will want to more civilization. Unfortunately that is not where most of the mineral, fossil and metal deposits are found. Thanks! ..Brian.. 1973 Safari At 07:24 PM 4/19/01 -0400, you wrote: Brian, If you're going to depend on your battery for power while boondocking, it cannot be emphasized enough that you should use one of the worksheets on the solar power sites to chart your usage. You're just guessing otherwise. Jim To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. --
[VAC] Re: Wierd Brakes
Pat, You might try backing off the controller adjustment for the first few stops. The manual for my Tekonsha warns about trying to adjust the thing until you've made a dozen or so stops. Or, you could rebuild the brakes, replacing both the shoes and the magnets. Get a clampon ammeter to check the current draw of your UniVolt, both unloaded and when you have some lights on. I'd bet that you'll see a fairly heavy current draw even with the lights off, it's the nature of a ferro-resonant power supply to do this. A modern 3-stage battery charger/converter such as the Inteli-Power won't operate this way, it'll draw very little current when the battery is charged until you turn on lights, then it'll rise proportionally. Jim Patrick Ewing wrote: For years I've had a certain situation with my 1961 Bambi's brakes. Maybe someone might have an answer. Only the first thing in the mornings, when I apply the brakes, they will totally lock up. After several miles stops they will work fine for the rest of the day. I have an adjustable brake resistor under the hood of the Suburban which I've backed off. ( I use different settings for the short single axle Bambi than for the long 31ft with dual axles.) The trailer's brakes have been totally gone through. It seems as if the current is "full on" even if by hand the brake controller is gently applied at very low speeds. (The old style KH in a 1983 GMC) The situation usually happens in campgrounds first thing when just getting rolling. On pavement or on gravel. Several times when leaving a campground and there's a decent downhill grade I've purpously left the umbilical cord to the trailer unhooked until the bottom of the grade. Otherwise I'd be constantly locking up the trailer wheels every time the brakes were even applied gently. On pavement the trailer's tires will lock up and squeel. This can be very embarrassing first thing in the morning if the campground is all quiet. Not a good image for a VAC'er to have. I'd think maybe the brake controller itself but this only happens when just starting out for several applications. Then for the rest of the day all is well. In fact very well. Another question. ... When my Sovereign is plugged into shore power the univolt starts humming it's tune. When 12 volt lights are turned on does it draw much more power? I guess the question is just how much power does a univolt draw even if nothing else is turned on vs if several 12 volt lights are on. Just curious as energy is starting to get expensive. When I get rich I hope to have a good solar system installed. (: Thanks, Pat To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] water, was DC TVs
Dan, I use a 25-gallon sprayer tank that I bought from Northern and a 12VDC pump from MicroMark. URLs are http://www.northern-online.com and http://www.micromark.com respectively. The tank is about 36 long and 12 diameter, the pump is a tiny submersible outfit, meant to be used in minature fountains, etc. It will pump about 2 or 3 gallons/minute and has a long piece of 3/8 ID tygon tubing attached so the tank can remain in the truck and push water to the trailer's inlet near the back. I attached a couple of bullet connectors to the power tounge jack wires, with matching connectors on the pump, using the female bullet on the '+' wire at the jack to prevent shorting. I got the idea from another Listee (Hi, Bill!), who uses a regular Blue Boy tank, clearly labeled so as to not confuse it with the one used for waste water. We often attend engine shows and take the golf cart along, so I made a rig to carry the tank on the cart's seat. I also have an attachment to pick up power from the cart's batteries for the pump. This rig works great for hauling water to the trailer in boondocking situations. The pump and tubing are stored in the trailer in a small TupperWare-type of container, the tank stays in the truck. Originally, I bought one of those 7-gallon water totes, but that thing is HEAVY when lifting it to pour into the trailer. I figure that Ben Franklin invented electricity for good reasons, and this is one of 'em. grin Jim Dan Weeks wrote: Yes, Jim, tell us about your solution to the water problem. I want to know even if Brian doesn't! Thanks BTW, for your cogent essay on power usage. Someday I'll put all of this to use. I think 3 years lurking on this list should qualify one for a Phd. in Airstream Living, thanks to the likes of you, Terry Tyler, Doctor Gerald, and so many others. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Dan Weeks 75 Argosy 26 From: Jim Dunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:57:24 -0400 To: Multiple recipients of VACList [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [VAC] Re: DC TV's Brian, Nearly all of the solar sites have an AH chart similar to the one you found at RVSolar. Pick one and go with it. Before charting your usage, you need to actually measure the consumption of your various appliances and lights, then estimate how many hours/day each will operate. Your DVM, set on the 10-amp scale will work fine to measure the draw, just be very careful to run only one device at a time. Simply disconnect one of your main battery leads and connect the meter in series, then turn on each light, the pump, the furnace, your small inverter (both loaded and unloaded), etc., ONE AT A TIME, and record the number. Round to the nearest .1 amp, closer than that is not necessary. This will require no more than 30 minutes of your time, believe it or not, and you'll be WAY ahead of the folks who are guessing, discussing, rehashing, and so on. Put your numbers in your chart, just as shown in the examples on the Web sites. Now, put the AH output from your solar panel(s) in the chart. A 100-amp panel will have a peak output of slightly more than 5 amps, and you can expect to see that much for a maximum of 4 hours per day, plus half that for another 4 hours. That's a total of 30 AH/day. Although that's my estimate, it's actually pretty close to personal experience. Note that we're assuming sunny days, it'll be next to nothing on a dreary day. If you're exceeding 30 AH/day in usage, your battery has to make up the difference. But, let's put that into the chart also. Your 3 batteries will give you about 250 AH max, or 125 AH if you try to never draw them below 50% charge. Let's say that you're using 60 AH/day, giving you a 30 AH/day deficit. You can still operate for 4 days before running your battery bank lower than is prudent, twice as long as without the solar panel. You might well look at your camping lifestyle and figure out that 4 or 5 days is the maximum time you will spend away from shore power and realize that you're all set. Of course, an eMeter or equivilant will help you track usage and give you a real-time readout on the state of your batteries. You might consider adding a good 3-stage charger/converter to your setup, especially if you plan on being out for a long time and using your generator to charge the batteries. A regular converter will charge the batteries so slowly as to be almost useless in this situation, but a 3-stage charger can put a very useful amount of juice into them in 4 or 5 hours of run-time. The small 1000-watt Hondas with the inverters are very quiet and very fuel-efficient and should do the job nicely. We use about 30 AH/day, being wastrels next to Sherry, but frugal compared to many others. Our 2, 75-watt panels can easily provide that amount of power and more. The eMeter has proven
[VAC] Re: furnace
Dennis, It could be the "sail switch", a flap that hangs in the blower's airstream (no pun intended) to "prove" the air flow before allowing the gas to come on. It also could be the circuit board. I think that RV Mobile (http://www.rvmobile.com) sells a generic replacement that's better than OEM. Jim Dennis Ober wrote: I have a 86 a/s the furnace fan comes on but not the burner flame ... do I have to take out the whole furnace to get to the relay switch or circuit board ...does any one else have or had this burner promblem ...what should I BE LOOKING FOR ??thanks ...keep up the digest ...I read it every day ... only 10 more years till mine is a vintage .. Dennis "OBIE " -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: proper air conditioner
John, Dunno where you're located, but I have a new in the box Coleman A/C unit like you're looking for. Bought it for our A/S, but traded trailers before I got one of those Round Tuits. I paid something over $500.00 for it in 1999 and am looking for offers. Location is just North of Toledo, OH. Please respond Off List. Jim John Impson wrote: Hello, finally have to replace the roof air unit(coleman)in my 63 overlander. was installed in 65. am thinking of going to the 7800 btu coleman; the 65 model was 10,000 btu and nearly froze us out. thinking also of adding the heat strip. any pro's or con's would be appreciated. thanks, john _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply. -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: DC TV's
Bob, There's several models in the 9" range that have a builtin VCR and ability to operate directly from 12VDC. From what I've seen, they draw about 4 amps. I use an old Radio Shack 5" color TV that works well, but is admittedly small. You really can't watch it from more than arm's length away, but on the upside, it draws only 1 amp. If you already have an inverter for your computer, etc., you can run the TV from it. The efficiency loss should be fairly minimal if the inverter is half-decent and not too much oversized. (most of those sorts of gadgets are much less efficient when lightly loaded) You do need to watch the power consumption when boondocking w/o power. Even one of those 9" sets at 4 amps will cost you 12 AH/day if you watch it for 3 hours daily. That's fairly significant. Jim Bob Kiger wrote: Does anybody have any positive experience with DC powered TV's. I am looking for something in the 13" range with built in VCR. Low power consumption is a big factor for me. Thin profile is also a plus. I currently have an 120V model but it is useless when boondocking. Bob -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: DC TV's
Rusty, It should draw 10 times the CURRENT, not POWER when operating from an inverter. Remember that POWER is VOLTS times AMPS. There definitely is a small loss of efficiency from the inverter, but it's not quite as bad as you describe. Jim Rusty Coonfield wrote: i learned that anything connected to an inverter uses 10 times the amount of power that a DC powered appliance would and thus shortening your battery time a bunch! -rusty fayetteville,AR 76 land yacht (in CA w/ girlfriend) B W Ganoe wrote: Bob, Why not use an inverter. I bought a 300 watt portable unit from Camping World as a standby till I do the solar panels, extra batteries, whole coach inverter thing. I just bought a new(low watt consumption" 13" AC tv and I can run both a satellite receiver and tv off a single battery with the 300 watt inverter while boondocking.but not for a long period of time. That, will be addressed in phase II. ;~) Brian... -- http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] lower SE Michigan, USA mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
