Re: [volt-nuts] 3457A (6.5 digit multi-meter). Is it best to keep it on?

[Todd Micallef]

I would recommend leaving it on. You want to make sure it soaks as long as
possible and then test it before shipping.

Keysight soaks the 3458A before testing and it makes sense since you want
to calibrate the meters as if they are in use 24/7.

Inspect the supplies and make sure you have no leaking caps. It would be a
shame to have a part fail once it reaches their lab.

Good luck,
Todd

On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 8:47 AM, Dr. David Kirkby <
drkir...@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

> I have a 3457A which does not get a lot of use, but it has not been
> calibrated for years, and I need to get it calibrated as I need to make
> some measurements of greater accuracy than usual. The 3457A is scheduled to
> go to Keysight a week from today. I'm wondering if its best to keep it
> powered up until then, to let the reference stabilize somewhat. Or it is a
> bit late for that now?
>
> I have asked Keysight to change the battery - I'm led to believe that
> Keysight will do that as part of the calibration unless the battery is
> particularly expensive.
>
> When I last looked, I could not find a suitable battery in the UK, and
> those in the US could not be shipped here. But that was a few years ago, so
> maybe things are different.
>
> Dr David Kirkby Ph.D C.Eng MIET
> Kirkby Microwave Ltd
> Registered office: Stokes Hall Lodge, Burnham Rd, Althorne, CHELMSFORD,
> Essex, CM3 6DT, United Kingdom.
> Registered in England and Wales as company number 08914892
> http://www.kirkbymicrowave.co.uk/
> Tel 01621-680100 / +44 1621-680100
> ___
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Re: [volt-nuts] 3458A Multi-Year Calibration/Service Agreement

[Todd Micallef]

Don,

I have not negotiated the agreement but am happy with the cost. You will be
too if the meter fails cal and needs repair. I paid for the 5 years of
service up front and the calibration agreement is paid annually. I found it
easier to do it this way. I changed the calibration level to the one with
uncertainties on the third year. They just canceled the old cal agreement
and the new one renews upon payment.

My meter has failed once and the A1 needed to be replaced. It paid for the
service contract a few times over. I renew for another 5 years next year if
possible. If they announce a replacement meter, I will renew ASAP.

There has been no mention of anyone getting a discount. Some companies like
Tektronix will give a discount if you list a large amount of equipment for
possible cal. I was told you didn't need to send it all in but just be a
potential source of more revenue. Keysight might work the same way. List
out all your gear for cal and maybe they will work with you on pricing.

Todd

On Thu, Apr 12, 2018 at 11:48 AM, Don@True-Cal 
wrote:

> I have been in contact with Keysight US sales team and I'm getting ready
> to sign a 5-year contract for yearly calibration and any service or repair
> needed during the agreement period. The agreement is for the lowest level
> of calibration service "Keysight Calibration Agreement" with a yearly price
> of $588 and "Repair Agreement" for a yearly price of $192, totaling $780
> per year for both. They are offering a 5% discount for a 5-year agreement
> which brings the cost to $741 yearly committed for 5 years. I know this is
> a lot higher cost than what used to be $250-$350 several years back. Has
> anyone in this group negotiated, or know of, a recent multi-year agreement
> with Keysight for 3458A calibration/repair that can comment on this.
>
> Don
>
> -Original Message-n this group
> From: volt-nuts  On Behalf Of Dr. David Kirkby
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 7:48 AM
> To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement 
> Subject: [volt-nuts] Does desoldering and resoldering an LTZ1000A reset
> the ageing?
>
> There seems to be plenty of evidence that meters like the 3458A improve
> stability over time. I believe that most/all is due to improved stability
> of the LTZ1000A.
>
> Does anyone know if desoldering one and resoldering resets the aging
> process? I see a number of used LTZ1000A ICs on eBay from China that look
> like they have been poorly removed. They are about the same price as a
> brand new LTZ1000A.
>
> I wondering if properly removed, a used chip is no more stable than a new
> one.
>
>
>
> Dave
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Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 732A schematic re-drawn?

[Todd Micallef]

Bill,

The reason why Q14 was dropped was that there was an additional pcb added
to the reference. The A8 preheater did not exist on the older models. It
appears the heating was changed to a split design where the heaters were
divided into two groups.
The control line still goes out P2-1 but connects to A8.

One of my 732A has this board and the reference also has the higher value
thermistor reading between 4k-5k ohms.

Todd

On Sat, Jan 20, 2018 at 2:06 PM, Bill Gold  wrote:

> David:
>
> I will be guessing that you are discussing the lack of Q14 that is
> chassis mounted on some versions of A4, driven by Q13.
>
> I have sent you by PM a pdf of a 732A manual that I probably got from
> FLUKE.
> If you look at the schematic for A4 this one has the chassis mounted Q14
> shown and listed in the parts list for A4.
>
> The interesting thing here is that a manual I sent you is P/N
> 645051 dated May 1983, while another manual P/N 788414 dated
> May 1986 does NOT show Q14.
> So for some reason known only to the people at FLUKE Q14 must have been
> dropped by May 1986.  Go figure.
>
> I don't have any other manuals except those two P/Ns.  The best I can
> figure out at this time is that Q14 was dropped between A4 Rev A and A4 Rev
> D.  According to the parts list in the May 1986 manual Q13 is a 2N3906.
> The
> Ic maximum is 200 ma.  I know that the overall current draw from the
> batteries when no AC power applied is about 250ma, but I don't know how
> much
> of that is for the heaters.
>
> Bill
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "David C. Partridge" 
> To: "'Discussion of precise voltage measurement'" 
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2018 4:16 AM
> Subject: [volt-nuts] Fluke 732A schematic re-drawn?
>
>
> > The schematic for the A5 Reference and Oven Controller Board has to be
> one
> > of the worst schematics I've seen in a while, breaking pretty much all
> the
> > rules on making a schematic understandable.  I suspect this was done
> > deliberately.
> >
> > Has anyone ever re-drafted this (to include the A4 pass transistor
> > components) to make sense of it?
> >
> > May your volt always be stable
> > Dave
> >
> > ___
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> > To unsubscribe, go to
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>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Neon bulbs for HP 3420B or 419A chopper

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

There appears to be no MOQ on those bulbs and they have 972 in stock. I
think you can order what you want.

Todd

On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 12:34 PM, Randy Evans 
wrote:

> Is there a relaible source for the GT-NE6H1925T neons?  Mouser has them for
> special order and I suspect they want a high minimum quantity.  A source in
> China lists them but I'm not sure I trust a Chinese source.
>
> On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 8:19 AM, David C. Partridge <
> david.partri...@perdrix.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > An update the A2B neons didn't work, but:
> >
> > George Kerber sent me a few GT-NE6H1925T neons.  I pulled two out the
> > packet and installed them in the chopper, and wonder of wonders the
> correct
> > waveform appeared at the test point.
> >
> > This is a great step forward.   The earlier neons I tried had way too low
> > a firing voltage so both fired.  These fired at about 95-100V with a
> > sustain at about 68V and do alternate.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: volt-nuts [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of David
> C.
> > Partridge
> > Sent: 18 November 2017 14:08
> > To: 'Discussion of precise voltage measurement'
> > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Neon bulbs for HP 3420B or 419A chopper
> >
> > I'm in the process of getting some A2B neons from Mouser.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > ___
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> > and follow the instructions there.
> >
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Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

Check that your firmware version on the Prologix is up to date. The latest
USB version is 6.107. You can see it in the Prologix GPIB Configurator
utility that can be downloaded from a link on their website.
http://prologix.biz/resources.html

I have uploaded a pic of my settings shown in the utility.
https://pasteboard.co/H0MnDT1.png

Todd

On Sun, Dec 31, 2017 at 3:31 AM, Poul-Henning Kamp 
wrote:

> 
> In message  gmail.com>
> , Randy Evans writes:
>
> >Since the KE5FX NVRAM download software works, that would seem to indicate
> >the GPIB is working, wouldn't it (download completes and checksums OK)?
>
> Randy,
>
> I think you need to consider electrical issues now.
>
> GPIB buffer chips live a tough life, and they can fail or go frail
> in so many weird ways that it is not even funny any longer.
>
> The bad thing is that the problem may not even be the buffer chip
> in the instrument you are talking to :-(
>
>
> --
> Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
> p...@freebsd.org | TCP/IP since RFC 956
> FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
> Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
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Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

Short of swapping out the A5 digital board I have no other ideas. If you
don't have a NI or Agilent adapter, I am sure I can find a spare for you to
test.

There is a Service Note 3458A-13A that deals with GPIB communication
failures. There is a test within the document to see if a shorting jumper
needs to be installed.
I can try reducing the code to something minimal for a quick test if you
want. It will take some time in the morning.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 11:18 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd,
>
> Same as before.  Still not working.  All it does is print out "HP3458A" on
> the output console and then just sits there.
>
> Randy
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 7:43 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Randy,
> >
> > I just remembered that I changed the duration from 30 minutes to 2
> minutes
> > to speed up the test. I forgot to change it back.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:27 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > I just sent it. I haven't modified Martin's code yet. That can be done
> > > once you confirm it works for you.
> > >
> > > Todd
> > >
> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:12 PM, randyevans2688 <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com
> > > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Todd,
> > >> If you don't mind,  just send the code directly to me.
> > >> Randy
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> > >>  Original message From: Todd Micallef <
> > >> tmical...@gmail.com> Date: 12/30/17  6:40 PM  (GMT-08:00) To:
> > Discussion
> > >> of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re:
> > >> [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A
> > >> Randy,
> > >>
> > >> I have not written anything else for the 3458A using EzGPIB.  If you
> > have
> > >> a
> > >> National Instruments or Agilent adapters, I have a handful of Python
> > code
> > >> I
> > >> use to measure some of my standards.
> > >>
> > >> If you are reading the temperature from the HP meter, I would think
> that
> > >> the problem lies in how the triggering is configured. The triggering
> has
> > >> been changed in this script so it may work for you. There was an
> > >> additional
> > >> command added for disabling the buffer.
> > >> The code can be posted here, if possible or I can email it to you for
> > >> testing.
> > >>
> > >> Todd
> > >>
> > >> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 9:26 PM, randyevans2688 <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com
> > >> >
> > >> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > Todd, thanks for the help.  Where will you post the new code?
> > >> > BTW, do you have any very simple code that is likely to work.  I am
> > >> > interested in seeing if anything other than KE5FX's memory dump
> > program
> > >> > will work on my HP3458A.
> > >> > Thanks again,
> > >> > Randy
> > >> >
> > >> > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> > >> >  Original message From: Todd Micallef <
> > >> tmical...@gmail.com>
> > >> > Date: 12/30/17  6:13 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Discussion of precise
> voltage
> > >> > measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB
> Issue
> > >> with
> > >> > 3458A
> > >> > Randy,
> > >> >
> > >> > I found the Prologix adapters and have modified the code in the
> > original
> > >> > script. I am doing a test run now and will post the script when I am
> > >> > certain I didn't make it worse.
> > >> >
> > >> > Todd
> > >> >
> > >> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randy Evans <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > >> > wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > > Todd,
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I have swapped cables, moved the Prologix adapter to both meters
> > >> (Agilent
> > >> > > works, HP doesn't), tried Martins code as well as Xdevs's.  I have
> > not
> > >> > > tried another PC yet, maybe the next step.
> > >> > >
> > >

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I just remembered that I changed the duration from 30 minutes to 2 minutes
to speed up the test. I forgot to change it back.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:27 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Randy,
>
> I just sent it. I haven't modified Martin's code yet. That can be done
> once you confirm it works for you.
>
> Todd
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:12 PM, randyevans2688 <randyevans2...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Todd,
>> If you don't mind,  just send the code directly to me.
>> Randy
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>  Original message From: Todd Micallef <
>> tmical...@gmail.com> Date: 12/30/17  6:40 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Discussion
>> of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re:
>> [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A
>> Randy,
>>
>> I have not written anything else for the 3458A using EzGPIB.  If you have
>> a
>> National Instruments or Agilent adapters, I have a handful of Python code
>> I
>> use to measure some of my standards.
>>
>> If you are reading the temperature from the HP meter, I would think that
>> the problem lies in how the triggering is configured. The triggering has
>> been changed in this script so it may work for you. There was an
>> additional
>> command added for disabling the buffer.
>> The code can be posted here, if possible or I can email it to you for
>> testing.
>>
>> Todd
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 9:26 PM, randyevans2688 <randyevans2...@gmail.com
>> >
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Todd, thanks for the help.  Where will you post the new code?
>> > BTW, do you have any very simple code that is likely to work.  I am
>> > interested in seeing if anything other than KE5FX's memory dump program
>> > will work on my HP3458A.
>> > Thanks again,
>> > Randy
>> >
>> > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> >  Original message From: Todd Micallef <
>> tmical...@gmail.com>
>> > Date: 12/30/17  6:13 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Discussion of precise voltage
>> > measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue
>> with
>> > 3458A
>> > Randy,
>> >
>> > I found the Prologix adapters and have modified the code in the original
>> > script. I am doing a test run now and will post the script when I am
>> > certain I didn't make it worse.
>> >
>> > Todd
>> >
>> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > > Todd,
>> > >
>> > > I have swapped cables, moved the Prologix adapter to both meters
>> (Agilent
>> > > works, HP doesn't), tried Martins code as well as Xdevs's.  I have not
>> > > tried another PC yet, maybe the next step.
>> > >
>> > > Here is the code that Martin modified for two meters, as well as the
>> > > modified Xdev's code per your directions (V1.02).
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > >
>> > > Randy
>> > >
>> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 3:55 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
>> > > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Randy,
>> > > >
>> > > > I will continue to look for my adapter. I haven't used it for quite
>> a
>> > > > while.
>> > > >
>> > > > I have seen similar issues and swapped cables, moved the adapter to
>> the
>> > > > other meter, etc... One of my cables was bad from one side of the
>> > > connector
>> > > > to the other (on the same end of the cable) and caused me lots of
>> > wasted
>> > > > time. Weird reading errors were happening.
>> > > >
>> > > > Would you email me Martin's code so I can test it here and I will
>> see
>> > if
>> > > > anything can be done to replicate your issue.
>> > > >
>> > > > Todd
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Randy Evans <
>> randyevans2...@gmail.com
>> > >
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > > Todd,
>> > > > >
>> > > > > I tried adding the line but it made no difference.
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Randy
>> > > > >
>> > > > > O

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I just sent it. I haven't modified Martin's code yet. That can be done once
you confirm it works for you.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:12 PM, randyevans2688 <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd,
> If you don't mind,  just send the code directly to me.
> Randy
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  Original message ----From: Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> Date: 12/30/17  6:40 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Discussion of precise voltage
> measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with
> 3458A
> Randy,
>
> I have not written anything else for the 3458A using EzGPIB.  If you have a
> National Instruments or Agilent adapters, I have a handful of Python code I
> use to measure some of my standards.
>
> If you are reading the temperature from the HP meter, I would think that
> the problem lies in how the triggering is configured. The triggering has
> been changed in this script so it may work for you. There was an additional
> command added for disabling the buffer.
> The code can be posted here, if possible or I can email it to you for
> testing.
>
> Todd
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 9:26 PM, randyevans2688 <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Todd, thanks for the help.  Where will you post the new code?
> > BTW, do you have any very simple code that is likely to work.  I am
> > interested in seeing if anything other than KE5FX's memory dump program
> > will work on my HP3458A.
> > Thanks again,
> > Randy
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> >  Original message From: Todd Micallef <
> tmical...@gmail.com>
> > Date: 12/30/17  6:13 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Discussion of precise voltage
> > measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue
> with
> > 3458A
> > Randy,
> >
> > I found the Prologix adapters and have modified the code in the original
> > script. I am doing a test run now and will post the script when I am
> > certain I didn't make it worse.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Todd,
> > >
> > > I have swapped cables, moved the Prologix adapter to both meters
> (Agilent
> > > works, HP doesn't), tried Martins code as well as Xdevs's.  I have not
> > > tried another PC yet, maybe the next step.
> > >
> > > Here is the code that Martin modified for two meters, as well as the
> > > modified Xdev's code per your directions (V1.02).
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 3:55 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Randy,
> > > >
> > > > I will continue to look for my adapter. I haven't used it for quite a
> > > > while.
> > > >
> > > > I have seen similar issues and swapped cables, moved the adapter to
> the
> > > > other meter, etc... One of my cables was bad from one side of the
> > > connector
> > > > to the other (on the same end of the cable) and caused me lots of
> > wasted
> > > > time. Weird reading errors were happening.
> > > >
> > > > Would you email me Martin's code so I can test it here and I will see
> > if
> > > > anything can be done to replicate your issue.
> > > >
> > > > Todd
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Randy Evans <
> randyevans2...@gmail.com
> > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Todd,
> > > > >
> > > > > I tried adding the line but it made no difference.
> > > > >
> > > > > Randy
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Randy Evans <
> > > randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Todd,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Does it matter where I put the line in the Init_Device procedure?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > procedure Init_Device;
> > > > > > begin;
> > > > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,GET_ID);// Get
> ID
> > of
> > > > > meter
> > > > > >if EZGPIB_BusWaitForData(gpib_address,meter_id,Timeout) then
> > > > > > EZ

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I have not written anything else for the 3458A using EzGPIB.  If you have a
National Instruments or Agilent adapters, I have a handful of Python code I
use to measure some of my standards.

If you are reading the temperature from the HP meter, I would think that
the problem lies in how the triggering is configured. The triggering has
been changed in this script so it may work for you. There was an additional
command added for disabling the buffer.
The code can be posted here, if possible or I can email it to you for
testing.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 9:26 PM, randyevans2688 <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd, thanks for the help.  Where will you post the new code?
> BTW, do you have any very simple code that is likely to work.  I am
> interested in seeing if anything other than KE5FX's memory dump program
> will work on my HP3458A.
> Thanks again,
> Randy
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> ---- Original message From: Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> Date: 12/30/17  6:13 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Discussion of precise voltage
> measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with
> 3458A
> Randy,
>
> I found the Prologix adapters and have modified the code in the original
> script. I am doing a test run now and will post the script when I am
> certain I didn't make it worse.
>
> Todd
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > I have swapped cables, moved the Prologix adapter to both meters (Agilent
> > works, HP doesn't), tried Martins code as well as Xdevs's.  I have not
> > tried another PC yet, maybe the next step.
> >
> > Here is the code that Martin modified for two meters, as well as the
> > modified Xdev's code per your directions (V1.02).
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 3:55 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > I will continue to look for my adapter. I haven't used it for quite a
> > > while.
> > >
> > > I have seen similar issues and swapped cables, moved the adapter to the
> > > other meter, etc... One of my cables was bad from one side of the
> > connector
> > > to the other (on the same end of the cable) and caused me lots of
> wasted
> > > time. Weird reading errors were happening.
> > >
> > > Would you email me Martin's code so I can test it here and I will see
> if
> > > anything can be done to replicate your issue.
> > >
> > > Todd
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com
> >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Todd,
> > > >
> > > > I tried adding the line but it made no difference.
> > > >
> > > > Randy
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Randy Evans <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Todd,
> > > > >
> > > > > Does it matter where I put the line in the Init_Device procedure?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > procedure Init_Device;
> > > > > begin;
> > > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,GET_ID);// Get ID
> of
> > > > meter
> > > > >if EZGPIB_BusWaitForData(gpib_address,meter_id,Timeout) then
> > > > > EZGPIB_ScreenWriteLn(meter_id);
> > > > >
> > > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,TRIGGER_SOURCE);// Hold
> > > trigger
> > > > > until meter can be setup
> > > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'INBUF ON');
> > > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,AUTO_ZERO);
> > > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,OUTPUT_FORMAT);
> > > > > end;
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Randy
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Todd Micallef <
> tmical...@gmail.com
> > >
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Randy,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I am the person that wrote that EzGPIB script. It was my first
> > before
> > > I
> > > > >> moved on to Python and I have only written a couple for the
> > different
> > > > >> meters I have on hand. Version 1.01 is the most current version 

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I found the Prologix adapters and have modified the code in the original
script. I am doing a test run now and will post the script when I am
certain I didn't make it worse.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 7:15 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd,
>
> I have swapped cables, moved the Prologix adapter to both meters (Agilent
> works, HP doesn't), tried Martins code as well as Xdevs's.  I have not
> tried another PC yet, maybe the next step.
>
> Here is the code that Martin modified for two meters, as well as the
> modified Xdev's code per your directions (V1.02).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Randy
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 3:55 PM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Randy,
> >
> > I will continue to look for my adapter. I haven't used it for quite a
> > while.
> >
> > I have seen similar issues and swapped cables, moved the adapter to the
> > other meter, etc... One of my cables was bad from one side of the
> connector
> > to the other (on the same end of the cable) and caused me lots of wasted
> > time. Weird reading errors were happening.
> >
> > Would you email me Martin's code so I can test it here and I will see if
> > anything can be done to replicate your issue.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Todd,
> > >
> > > I tried adding the line but it made no difference.
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Randy Evans <
> randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Todd,
> > > >
> > > > Does it matter where I put the line in the Init_Device procedure?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > procedure Init_Device;
> > > > begin;
> > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,GET_ID);// Get ID of
> > > meter
> > > >if EZGPIB_BusWaitForData(gpib_address,meter_id,Timeout) then
> > > > EZGPIB_ScreenWriteLn(meter_id);
> > > >
> > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,TRIGGER_SOURCE);// Hold
> > trigger
> > > > until meter can be setup
> > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'INBUF ON');
> > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,AUTO_ZERO);
> > > >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,OUTPUT_FORMAT);
> > > > end;
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Randy
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com
> >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Randy,
> > > >>
> > > >> I am the person that wrote that EzGPIB script. It was my first
> before
> > I
> > > >> moved on to Python and I have only written a couple for the
> different
> > > >> meters I have on hand. Version 1.01 is the most current version I
> have
> > > for
> > > >> the 3458A.
> > > >> I see that I should have added at least one more command to the
> meter
> > > >> initialization.  The additional init command is used in the scripts
> on
> > > >> xDevs.
> > > >>
> > > >> Add the following line in the Init_Device procedure
> > > >>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'END ALWAYS');
> > > >>
> > > >> This tells the meter to send an EOI on every read.
> > > >>
> > > >> I am looking for one of my Prologix adapters or I would test this.
> > When
> > > I
> > > >> find it, I will also test it. I want to make sure there are no
> further
> > > >> issues.
> > > >> Also, do both meters run the same firmware versions? I wonder if the
> > HP
> > > >> meter is using a much older version.
> > > >>
> > > >> Todd
> > > >>
> > > >> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:42 AM, Randy Evans <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com
> > > >
> > > >> wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> > Todd,
> > > >> >
> > > >> > I have version 1.01. Yes, please e-mail me your modified version.
> > > >> Maybe it
> > > >> > will help.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > Thanks,
> > > >> >
> > > >> > Randy
> > > >> >
> > > >> > On Sat, Dec 

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I will continue to look for my adapter. I haven't used it for quite a while.

I have seen similar issues and swapped cables, moved the adapter to the
other meter, etc... One of my cables was bad from one side of the connector
to the other (on the same end of the cable) and caused me lots of wasted
time. Weird reading errors were happening.

Would you email me Martin's code so I can test it here and I will see if
anything can be done to replicate your issue.

Todd


On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd,
>
> I tried adding the line but it made no difference.
>
> Randy
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > Does it matter where I put the line in the Init_Device procedure?
> >
> >
> > procedure Init_Device;
> > begin;
> >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,GET_ID);// Get ID of
> meter
> >if EZGPIB_BusWaitForData(gpib_address,meter_id,Timeout) then
> > EZGPIB_ScreenWriteLn(meter_id);
> >
> >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,TRIGGER_SOURCE);// Hold trigger
> > until meter can be setup
> >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'INBUF ON');
> >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,AUTO_ZERO);
> >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,OUTPUT_FORMAT);
> > end;
> >
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Randy,
> >>
> >> I am the person that wrote that EzGPIB script. It was my first before I
> >> moved on to Python and I have only written a couple for the different
> >> meters I have on hand. Version 1.01 is the most current version I have
> for
> >> the 3458A.
> >> I see that I should have added at least one more command to the meter
> >> initialization.  The additional init command is used in the scripts on
> >> xDevs.
> >>
> >> Add the following line in the Init_Device procedure
> >>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'END ALWAYS');
> >>
> >> This tells the meter to send an EOI on every read.
> >>
> >> I am looking for one of my Prologix adapters or I would test this. When
> I
> >> find it, I will also test it. I want to make sure there are no further
> >> issues.
> >> Also, do both meters run the same firmware versions? I wonder if the HP
> >> meter is using a much older version.
> >>
> >> Todd
> >>
> >> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:42 AM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com
> >
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Todd,
> >> >
> >> > I have version 1.01. Yes, please e-mail me your modified version.
> >> Maybe it
> >> > will help.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks,
> >> >
> >> > Randy
> >> >
> >> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 4:24 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Randy,
> >> > >
> >> > > Is there a version number at the top of the file? I had two versions
> >> > (1.00
> >> > > and 1.01). I can't remember all that changed between the two since
> it
> >> has
> >> > > been a while but I did find an additional timeout code that limited
> >> the
> >> > > wait time for reading data to 1 minute. I am guessing I had a
> problem
> >> > with
> >> > > mine and added it.
> >> > >
> >> > > I can email it to you if you want to try it. If it works for you, I
> >> will
> >> > > have Illya update it on xDevs.
> >> > >
> >> > > Todd
> >> > >
> >> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:39 AM, Randy Evans <
> >> randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > > I am still unable to get my HP-3458A to work with the xdevs
> program
> >> > > > "HP3458A_Measure_DMM_Noise.488" (https://xdevs.com/article/dmm
> >> _noise/
> >> > ).
> >> > > > It
> >> > > > works fine with my Agilent 3458A and with a friend's HP-3458A and
> >> his
> >> > > > Agilent 3458A using the EZGPIB program.  The SW versions are
> >> identical
> >> > > with
> >> > > > my friend's DMMs, the HP units are (8.2) and with the Agilent
> units
> >> are
> >

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

You can add it after the last line with the OUTPUT_FORMAT

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 3:19 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd,
>
> Does it matter where I put the line in the Init_Device procedure?
>
>
> procedure Init_Device;
> begin;
>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,GET_ID);// Get ID of meter
>if EZGPIB_BusWaitForData(gpib_address,meter_id,Timeout) then
> EZGPIB_ScreenWriteLn(meter_id);
>
>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,TRIGGER_SOURCE);// Hold trigger
> until meter can be setup
>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'INBUF ON');
>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,AUTO_ZERO);
>EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,OUTPUT_FORMAT);
> end;
>
>
> Randy
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Randy,
> >
> > I am the person that wrote that EzGPIB script. It was my first before I
> > moved on to Python and I have only written a couple for the different
> > meters I have on hand. Version 1.01 is the most current version I have
> for
> > the 3458A.
> > I see that I should have added at least one more command to the meter
> > initialization.  The additional init command is used in the scripts on
> > xDevs.
> >
> > Add the following line in the Init_Device procedure
> >EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'END ALWAYS');
> >
> > This tells the meter to send an EOI on every read.
> >
> > I am looking for one of my Prologix adapters or I would test this. When I
> > find it, I will also test it. I want to make sure there are no further
> > issues.
> > Also, do both meters run the same firmware versions? I wonder if the HP
> > meter is using a much older version.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:42 AM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Todd,
> > >
> > > I have version 1.01. Yes, please e-mail me your modified version.
> Maybe
> > it
> > > will help.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 4:24 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Randy,
> > > >
> > > > Is there a version number at the top of the file? I had two versions
> > > (1.00
> > > > and 1.01). I can't remember all that changed between the two since it
> > has
> > > > been a while but I did find an additional timeout code that limited
> the
> > > > wait time for reading data to 1 minute. I am guessing I had a problem
> > > with
> > > > mine and added it.
> > > >
> > > > I can email it to you if you want to try it. If it works for you, I
> > will
> > > > have Illya update it on xDevs.
> > > >
> > > > Todd
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:39 AM, Randy Evans <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I am still unable to get my HP-3458A to work with the xdevs program
> > > > > "HP3458A_Measure_DMM_Noise.488" (https://xdevs.com/article/
> > dmm_noise/
> > > ).
> > > > > It
> > > > > works fine with my Agilent 3458A and with a friend's HP-3458A and
> his
> > > > > Agilent 3458A using the EZGPIB program.  The SW versions are
> > identical
> > > > with
> > > > > my friend's DMMs, the HP units are (8.2) and with the Agilent units
> > are
> > > > > (9.2).  However, both of my units work fine with the KE5FX GPIB
> > Toolkit
> > > > > HP3458.EXE program to download the NVRAM CAL data.  This would seem
> > to
> > > > > indicate that my HP-3458 GPIB works at least partially.
> > > > >
> > > > > Does anyone have a EZGPIB program that I could try to run (that is
> > > > > different from the Xdev program)?  It would be nice to see if I
> could
> > > get
> > > > > something to work other than the HP3458.EXE program.  Or if any one
> > has
> > > > > some ideas on what to look for.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Randy Evans
> > > > >
> > > > > On Tue, Dec 26, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Randy Evans <
> > randyevans2...@gmail.com
> > > >
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > I am h

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I am the person that wrote that EzGPIB script. It was my first before I
moved on to Python and I have only written a couple for the different
meters I have on hand. Version 1.01 is the most current version I have for
the 3458A.
I see that I should have added at least one more command to the meter
initialization.  The additional init command is used in the scripts on
xDevs.

Add the following line in the Init_Device procedure
   EZGPIB_BusWriteData(gpib_address,'END ALWAYS');

This tells the meter to send an EOI on every read.

I am looking for one of my Prologix adapters or I would test this. When I
find it, I will also test it. I want to make sure there are no further
issues.
Also, do both meters run the same firmware versions? I wonder if the HP
meter is using a much older version.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 10:42 AM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Todd,
>
> I have version 1.01. Yes, please e-mail me your modified version.  Maybe it
> will help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Randy
>
> On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 4:24 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Randy,
> >
> > Is there a version number at the top of the file? I had two versions
> (1.00
> > and 1.01). I can't remember all that changed between the two since it has
> > been a while but I did find an additional timeout code that limited the
> > wait time for reading data to 1 minute. I am guessing I had a problem
> with
> > mine and added it.
> >
> > I can email it to you if you want to try it. If it works for you, I will
> > have Illya update it on xDevs.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:39 AM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I am still unable to get my HP-3458A to work with the xdevs program
> > > "HP3458A_Measure_DMM_Noise.488" (https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/
> ).
> > > It
> > > works fine with my Agilent 3458A and with a friend's HP-3458A and his
> > > Agilent 3458A using the EZGPIB program.  The SW versions are identical
> > with
> > > my friend's DMMs, the HP units are (8.2) and with the Agilent units are
> > > (9.2).  However, both of my units work fine with the KE5FX GPIB Toolkit
> > > HP3458.EXE program to download the NVRAM CAL data.  This would seem to
> > > indicate that my HP-3458 GPIB works at least partially.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a EZGPIB program that I could try to run (that is
> > > different from the Xdev program)?  It would be nice to see if I could
> get
> > > something to work other than the HP3458.EXE program.  Or if any one has
> > > some ideas on what to look for.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Randy Evans
> > >
> > > On Tue, Dec 26, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Randy Evans <randyevans2...@gmail.com
> >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > I am hoping some of you experts might be able to assist with a
> strange
> > > > problem i am having trying to make automated measurements using
> EZGPIB
> > > with
> > > > an Agilent and an HP 3458A.  I have a program given to me by Martin
> > > > Reynolds, which is a variant on the Xdevs noise measurement program.
> > > > Martin's program continuously reads the voltage measurements
> > sequentially
> > > > from the two meters and then stores then in a measurements file,
> along
> > > with
> > > > the temperature measurements from both meters.  The program works
> fine
> > on
> > > > his Agilent and HP 3458As.
> > > >
> > > > On my two 3458As, it takes the temperature measurements just fine but
> > > only
> > > > takes a voltage measurement from the Agilent unit.  The HP unit will
> > not
> > > > make any voltage measurements although I can see both the 3458As in
> > talk
> > > > states and, of course, it does sent the temperature measurements.
> > > However,
> > > > if I turn the HP unit off and then on again, the HP will start to
> take
> > > > voltage and temperature measurements and send them to the PC.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas on what might be causing the strange behavior?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Randy Evans
> > > >
> > > ___
> > > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
> > > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> > > mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
> > > and follow the instructions there.
> > >
> > ___
> > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> > mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
> > and follow the instructions there.
> >
> ___
> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/
> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
___
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To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Re: [volt-nuts] GPIB Issue with 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

Is there a version number at the top of the file? I had two versions (1.00
and 1.01). I can't remember all that changed between the two since it has
been a while but I did find an additional timeout code that limited the
wait time for reading data to 1 minute. I am guessing I had a problem with
mine and added it.

I can email it to you if you want to try it. If it works for you, I will
have Illya update it on xDevs.

Todd

On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 12:39 AM, Randy Evans 
wrote:

> I am still unable to get my HP-3458A to work with the xdevs program
> "HP3458A_Measure_DMM_Noise.488" (https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/).
> It
> works fine with my Agilent 3458A and with a friend's HP-3458A and his
> Agilent 3458A using the EZGPIB program.  The SW versions are identical with
> my friend's DMMs, the HP units are (8.2) and with the Agilent units are
> (9.2).  However, both of my units work fine with the KE5FX GPIB Toolkit
> HP3458.EXE program to download the NVRAM CAL data.  This would seem to
> indicate that my HP-3458 GPIB works at least partially.
>
> Does anyone have a EZGPIB program that I could try to run (that is
> different from the Xdev program)?  It would be nice to see if I could get
> something to work other than the HP3458.EXE program.  Or if any one has
> some ideas on what to look for.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Randy Evans
>
> On Tue, Dec 26, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Randy Evans 
> wrote:
>
> > I am hoping some of you experts might be able to assist with a strange
> > problem i am having trying to make automated measurements using EZGPIB
> with
> > an Agilent and an HP 3458A.  I have a program given to me by Martin
> > Reynolds, which is a variant on the Xdevs noise measurement program.
> > Martin's program continuously reads the voltage measurements sequentially
> > from the two meters and then stores then in a measurements file, along
> with
> > the temperature measurements from both meters.  The program works fine on
> > his Agilent and HP 3458As.
> >
> > On my two 3458As, it takes the temperature measurements just fine but
> only
> > takes a voltage measurement from the Agilent unit.  The HP unit will not
> > make any voltage measurements although I can see both the 3458As in talk
> > states and, of course, it does sent the temperature measurements.
> However,
> > if I turn the HP unit off and then on again, the HP will start to take
> > voltage and temperature measurements and send them to the PC.
> >
> > Any ideas on what might be causing the strange behavior?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Randy Evans
> >
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Re: [volt-nuts] EPROM Programmer

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I use the GQ-4X from mcumall.com. It works great and I have had no problems
with it. I have bought a few adapters to support PLCC and SOIC packages.

For the NVRAM, don't overlook the STMicroelectronics memory. I have used
the M48Z12 as a direct replacement.with no issues. The only thing I didn't
like was the date code format on the part. They only list the last digit of
the year and week. I guess if you replace it every 10 years it is not an
issue.

Todd.

On Tue, Nov 7, 2017 at 10:08 PM, Randy Evans 
wrote:

> Can someone recommend a good low-cost method to program the DS1220 and
> DS1230 NVRAMs for the HP-3458A?  I downloaded the CAL contents and I need
> to program new NVRAM chips to replace the older (very old) NVRAMs still in
> the unit.
>
> Also, will the DS1220AD and DS1230AD chips work in place of the
> existing DS1220Y
> and DS1230Y NVRAMs in the HP-3458A?  The AD versions have different timing
> "power good" specifications and they don't work as a plug-in substitute in
> all cases.  I assume some 3458A users have changed out the NVRAMs with the
> new Dallas parts ( Dallas no longer makes the DS1230Y NVRAM, but does still
> make the DS1230Y NVRAM, according to their data sheet).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Randy Evans
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Re: [volt-nuts] Best way to measure micro Ohms

[Todd Micallef]

Dave,

It looks like IET updated the design of the instrument with better
switching. If you download the manual from the IET website, they still show
the older model.
I wonder if the newer model incorporates a front switch that enables the
pulsed mode that was added by the owner on EEVBlog? I can't tell by the
photo.

Todd

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 5:44 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <
drkir...@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

> On 18 September 2017 at 18:36, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Dave,
> >
> > Another meter is the Cambridge LOM-510A. I am not sure if it is in your
> > budget but there has been a review made on EEVBlog. There is one
> currently
> > on eBay with a current amplifier that I have never seen before today. It
> > may be worth reviewing if it meets your needs.
> >
> > Todd
> >
>
>
> Hi Todd,
> Something struck me as odd about the *model* number LOM-510A.
>
> When I google the Keithley 580, I see a *paid advert* for an IET Labs
> LOM-510A.
>
> http://www.ietlabs.com/lom-510.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3f3NBRDP_
> NHS9fq53n4SJACKIfEYZT_jyIk_TKn0gqEkzvfxwKASIpIZTcDFJfJlMwvnRRoCZYHw_wcB
>
> But it looks nothing like the Cambridge LOM-510A on eBay
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cambridge-510A-Micro-Ohmmeter-
> DLRO-Includes-NEW-leads-NIST-Calibrated-LOM-510A-/291956733548
>
> It seems a bit odd for two manufacturers (IET Labs and Cambridge
> Instruments) to both have the exact same model number (LOM-510A) for an
> instrument with identical functionality (micro ohms). Yet photographs of
> the two instruments show they look similar, but are not identical. The IET
> Labs one appears to have a couple of extra switches.
>
> Just to make something appear even more odd, the IET Labs has a link to a
> review on EEVblog.
>
> http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ie/30/
>
> but the picture shows Cambridge Instruments, but the title shows IET Labs.
>
>
>
> Dave
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Re: [volt-nuts] Best way to measure micro Ohms

[Todd Micallef]

Dave,

Another meter is the Cambridge LOM-510A. I am not sure if it is in your
budget but there has been a review made on EEVBlog. There is one currently
on eBay with a current amplifier that I have never seen before today. It
may be worth reviewing if it meets your needs.

Todd

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <
drkir...@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

> On 18 Sep 2017 00:43, "Charles Steinmetz"  wrote:
> >
>
> > Also, since you said the waveguide is aluminum (and didn't say anything
> about plating), be aware that aluminum exposed to air is covered by a thin
> aluminum oxide layer (Al2O3), which forms within seconds after a new
> surface is exposed.  This layer is thin -- generally about 4 nm -- but the
> bulk resistivity of Al2O3 is very high, so there is a finite and variable
> resistance across the interface between two joined pieces of aluminum
> (depending on the area of the joint, the joining pressure, and the extent
> to which the joining method produces a clean [oxide-free], gas-tight
> interface between the joined surfaces).
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Charles
>
> Thanks.  You have confirmed what I was thinking - it is *probably* the
> oxide causing the problem.
>
> It's not a waveguide in the normal sense of the word, transmitting a TE or
> TM wave down a hollow tube,  but more like a coaxial line transmitting
> something close(ish) to a TEM wave. The outer conductor is uncoated
> aluminum and rectangular in cross section.  The inner conductor is brass.
> See pictures attached (I made them small, so quality his not great, but it
> should not too use much bandwidth)
>
> Attached are a couple of pictures, and also S11 measured on a VNA, with one
> connector shorted Since this is a reflection measurement, the EM wave
> travellels along this twice, so about half the loss would be in each
> direction. It is only a rough measurement, but a transmission measurement
> showed similar results, but half as much attenuation, as it is only being
> attenuated one way.
>
> Maybe I need to use brass, or silver plate the aluminum.
>
> The purpose of this was to measure the loss of a very low loss liquid
> dielectric, but from discussions I had with someone at NPL, such a
> structure is not suitable if the loss is very low.
>
> Anyway, I have put it an offer on a Keithley microohm meter. I notice there
> are a lot of Chinese ones at quite low priced. I've no idea how good/bad
> they are. But they are much more modern and cheaper than an *affordable*
> Kiethley meter. A Keithley 2002 is well outside my budget.
>
> Dave
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 732a concernes

[Todd Micallef]

Igor,

Congratulations on your purchase. Your initial readings on the 10v and
1.018v did not appear too high. It depends on which jumpers were already
selected. I think on all of mine the 40ppm jumper was the only one
installed. The problem with the 1v output might be due to a broken trimmer
pot. I had a 10v pot that was adjusted past the ends and broken. I went
inside the oven and replaced it but it was difficult due to all the fine
enameled wire inside and the possibility for breaking one was high. The 1v
output is separately divided from the 1.018v so it is possible one of the
resistors has gone bad and replacing it would probably not be worth the
effort.

The thermistor value seems to be inline with my 732A except one. That
particular one is supposed to be 4k -5k ohms.

I don't know about the actual temperatures as I haven't measured any of
mine. The regulator board is full of carbon comp resistors. It is possible
that R13 failed, I have had some CC resistors fail with a much lower
resistance. R13 is supposed to be 2.7ohms. R12 is a WW at 0.39 ohms. I
would check both to see if they are still within spec.

There were some recent postings on EEVBlog concerning some recently
acquired 732A and tips on what to check.
I would recommend replacing that Schaffner input filter if you plan on
powering your 732A 24/7.

It could take some months of monitoring to determine how well it is
working. Beware that one reference may lead to more. A properly functioning
732A will have lower drift than your 2002 or 3458A so you will have to
measure it against other references.

BR,

Todd

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 1:27 AM, Igor  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am Igor and I am new to this forum. I have a Keithley 2002 and 3458A.
>
> As probably a prerequisite for this list, I recently acquired a Fluke 732a
> and checking it our now. I do not have any history for the unit and it was
> shipped to me cold without batteries and with broken battery carrier.
>
> After a warm up 10V read about 7ppm high and 1.018V read about 13ppm high.
> This is probably ok for a very old unit like this.  However 1V read 116ppm
> high! Is this typical? Would it be a sign of internal resistor drift?
>
> I had to move an internal jumper for 5ppm adjustment and then adjusted 10V
> and 1.018V to proper value using a calibrated meter. I do not see any way I
> can adjust 1V output to be even close to spec. Is opening the oven and
> adjusting resistors an option? Should I just leave it alone and monitor
> drift?
>
> When fully warmed up the thermistor measured 3.662KOhm. Is this a typical
> performance?
>
> Additionally when inspecting the unit in more details I found a burned PCB
> patch on A4 Regulator board, right under R12 and R13 resistors in proximity
> to transistor Q4 and capacitor c8. It is literally burned to black crisp.
> The resistors themselves appear ok. Maybe they had been changed after the
> board burned.
>
> When running the board I get transistor Q4 as hot as 220F, still below its
> 150C max running temperature. The PCB board and resistors get to 180F. Is
> this normal, or should I be concerned?
>
>
> Thank you very much.
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Re: [volt-nuts] Datron 4700 manual and options

[Todd Micallef]

Fred,

I used the same values and typically went up to the next higher voltage. I
think most ended up as 35v since I bought them in quantity. Some people
recommend the OS-CON family as replacements. Many of the failed tantalums
fit in a tight space so I just stayed with the original type.
Once the in-guard was repaired, I found a few other boards where the
tantalums on the same rail also failed so don't be surprised if more start
to fail.

The 4708 service manual is here
https://xdevs.com/doc/Datron/4708/DATRON-4708-CH-SH_c20030307.pdf
It is now uploaded to KO4BB. The 4808 service manual will be very close
since the 4708 and 4808 share similar designs.

The 4708 uses a LTZ1000 as the reference instead of the array of zeners
used in the 4000 and the lower spec'd 4700. You will have yourself a good
calibrator once it is brought back into service. Be careful around the
displays as there is hardly any room between the glass and front panel.

Respectfully,

Todd

On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 12:55 PM, Fred <pa4...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Tod,
>
> I just pulled that board (i think) and found a burned 22uF tantalum.
> Tantalum caps should have a very long life unless used on the wrong place.
> I guess this is an example. I do not even stock them, the last bad one I
> had to replace was in a G secutest 2 years ago. ( I repair around 10-20
> Secutests a year and that was the only bad tantalum)
>
> With what type/value cap did you replace them ?
> I found the 4708 manual at KO4BB but that is a user manual without
> schematics.
>
> The calibrator should be OK but before I try to start her I always like
> check things like caps, connectors, solderjoints etc. It really looks like
> new, not even a scratch or dust. It came with a new looking HP8640 and a
> new looking HP counter 5248. Both from the same cal lab (part of a company
> that stayed there) that cal-lab closed about 30 years ago, but all gear
> stayed where it was (I already had received most of their gear a few years
> ago). This were the last things because my friend retires.
>
> Fred
>
> .
>
> On 07/20/2017 04:51 PM, Todd Micallef wrote:
>
>> Fred,
>>
>> Shorted tantalums most likely. I had several on mine that went bad as
>> quickly as I replaced them. I would start with the inguard supply board.
>>
>> I think the 4708 manual is available for download at KO4BB or xDevs. If
>> not, I can dig up something. I have a set of the manuals.
>>
>> Todd
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 10:01 Fred <pa4...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Today a friend gave me a Datron 4700. It looks like new. It is stored
>>> (working)  for many years in the cal lab he works. He was allowed to
>>> take it home (for me, in return I will repair his SA), He plugged it in,
>>> Fail 1 on the display followed by a sound and a smell.
>>> I opened it but nothing looks burned.
>>>
>>> I can not find a service manual, does someone has one ?
>>>
>>> On the back the label shows no options but if he remembers it well it
>>> should have all or at least most  options. All slots are filled with
>>> pcb's. The "box" in the left upper corner is full and there is a very
>>> small pcb next to it. There is not much room left. Just enough to store
>>> a small multimeter between the huge transformer and that box.
>>>
>>> Fred
>>> www.pa4tim.nl
>>>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Datron 4600 Transconductance Amplifier

[Todd Micallef]

Dave,

I have the same problem. I ordered some connectors from an auction and they
are due to arrive this week. They were ordered as a set since the female
connector was hard to find.

I was going to ask the group if both cables were straight through and if
any of the wires were of any special type like STP.

Todd

On Monday, July 10, 2017, David C. Partridge 
wrote:

> I'm looking for the cables to connect this to a 4808 and for the Service
> Manual.
>
> It's also known as Option 60 if that helps any.
>
> Dave
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7060G

[Todd Micallef]

I don't have one in my collection but fellow member Dave Partridge had a
similar issue on a 7081. His detailed repair is here
http://www.perdrix.co.uk/Solartron7081/index.htm

Perhaps there are some similarities between the two models that can point
you in the right direction?

If you have a programmer, it would be a good time to make a backup as I
don't see any that have already been uploaded to ko4bb. Pics would also be
great.



On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 4:51 PM, fred schneider  wrote:

> A friend gave me a dead Solartron 7060G (TRMS version) It goes on with al
> segments and all leds on.  A quick probing shows the -35V measures only
> -20V. I have not probes more rails after that.
>
> Does anyone has a service manual for this meter.
>
> Fred
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[volt-nuts] Datron 1281 Keys

[Todd Micallef]

This is a follow-up to my post last November
https://www.febo.com/pipermail/volt-nuts/2015-November/004562.html

I was able to track down the manufacturer of the keyswitch. It appears that
Lorlin is the manufacturer and the key number is the same.

With the help of another member I was able to confirm that replacement keys
work in my one good switch and also his spare switch. It also helped that
there is an auction that showed the key number.

The keys and switches were sourced from Allied.

http://www.alliedelec.com/lorlin-key850/70749334/

http://www.alliedelec.com/lorlin-srl5ds2850/70749350/

I won't install the switch for a few weeks but they appear to be similar
other than the shape of the metal surrounding the lock The new lock bezels
are tapered.


Todd
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Re: [volt-nuts] Keithley 2001 - do you need to open it to calibrate it?

[Todd Micallef]

You can run the self-tests to confirm the seller was telling the truth.
Smells are probably bad caps, and if you don't feel like dealing with a
recap, returning it would be best.

The keypad is held in place using two plastic strips. If one has broken or
fallen off, then you would see the keys push away from the panel. They are
easy to fix and are sometimes glued in place.

I am guessing it was opened and promptly put up for sale. I have repaired a
couple and they are great meters, but I am hesitant to go down that road
again. You never know how damaged they could be until you strip it down.



On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 5:29 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <
drkir...@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

> On 26 June 2016 at 20:46, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > David,
> >
> > I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or
> > tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not
> > mean the item is calibrated.
> >
>
> The sticker on the front has been removed, but the one underdeath, which
> covers a screw, is still there, but the screw has clearly been undone, so
> the seal is "broken". I'm interested to know if it is necessary to undo the
> case to calibrate the 2001, or whether it can all be done from the front
> panel, probably removing that sticker on the front.
>
> There are a few things I am not happy about this - the front panel appear
> to move far more than I would expect. Depressing one key seems to make
> several keys nearby go retreat towards the back of the unit, although it
> appears to function.
>
> I was a bit surprised when I put it on the 2 A range, with no leads
> connected, the current is showing as high as 6 mA at times. This seems odd
> given the current is obviously zero. I realize leaving the leads open on
> voltage is going to lead to undefined results, but I would have expected on
> current for the meter to read very close to zero.
>
> If I put it on "auto", on DC current, with no leads, the reading is going
> as high as 20 nA - there's noise on the last 3 digits. I don't know if that
> makes any sense. The update rate is very fast, so perhaps that's to be
> expected unless one increases the integration time.
>
> But there are a few things making me think this meter might have issues. A
> rather strange smell was initially evident, but that seems to have cleared.
> The movement of the keys seems very odd. I will almost certainly return
> this.
>
>
> >
> > If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests.
> There
> > are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see
> if
> > the meter is measuring close to others.
> >
>
> Thanks, I will take a look.
>
> My computer that has the GPIB board in is is rather sick at the minute. I
> need to sort out what is wrong with it, as its the only convenient computer
> to have a controller card in.
>
> Dave
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Re: [volt-nuts] Keithley 2182A

[Todd Micallef]

The repair was performed last November and my memory is bad, too many
projects since then. The two defective parts were the TF-245 and U626.

My symptoms were noisy readings across all ranges. I could not get them to
settle down even with the input shorted. I measured the TF-245 in-circuit
to see if anything was too far out to be in spec. I was certain that the
30K resistor between 5-11 was open, so I removed it and measured. There was
also another open 90K resistor between 7-8.

I also had to trace an input signal through the meter and it led to the
resistor array. I will try and find the actual in-circuit measurements
before the part was replaced.

I


Todd

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 4:23 PM, Russ Ramirez <russ.rami...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Looking forward to your notes Todd. A bit more info on the repair.
>
> DCV1 is OK except for the 10 V range. A test voltage input of 100 mV
> appears on the input side of Q665 fine, but not on the output side in the
> 10 V range, however a DMM measurement is solid in the other applicable
> ranges. So this issue does seem to be completely isolated to the 10 V
> range.
>
> DCV2 input is fine through the path to the ADC (TP652) in all ranges, but
> the unit is not making a stable measurement. For example, a 9 V input reads
> between 8.8 V and 9.2 V on the 10 V scale. The same 9 V input to DCV1 also
> looks good up to TP652, on the 100 V range since 10 v is out it, and it
> reads a stable 9.002 V at that TP. Without a schematic, it will take some
> time to determine what is different after the TP652 point - maybe there are
> in fact 2 ADCs, but it's not obvious either way.
>
> Russ
>
> On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 11:16 AM, Todd Micallef <tmical...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I have to review my notes, but I know of the two bad parts that were
> > found, one was the TF-245. I happened to have a spare on hand. I will
> look
> > through any notes to get the other part number.
> >
> > Todd
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > > On Jun 26, 2016, at 10:09, Russ Ramirez <russ.rami...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Illya - very nice piece of work!
> > >
> > > Russ
> > >
> > >> On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 5:27 AM, Illya Tsemenko <il...@xdevs.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> If you looking into repair or internals detail of 2182, this draft
> > article
> > >> may help: https://xdevs.com/fix/kei2182/
> > >> Keithley stopped releasing schematics and detailed information since
> > >> -series instruments due to IP issues.
> > >>
> > >> 26/06/16 18:08, Brian Smith пишет:
> > >>
> > >> Hello Russ
> > >>>
> > >>> It appears that there are neither a service manual nor a schematic
> > >>> available anywhere.
> > >>>
> > >>> My educated guess is that this is because the 2182A is a current
> model
> > >>> instrument. The newest production model keithley gear does not have
> > >>> associated service manuals nor schematics published. These appear to
> be
> > >>> treated as trade secrets.
> > >>>
> > >>> You can have your 2182A serviced by Keithley if it is in need of
> > repair.
> > >>>
> > >>> I had my model 2000 DMM that I bought from eBay serviced by Keihtley
> > for
> > >>> $560. They replaced the motherboard bringing the DMM up to brand new
> > >>> condition. I asked for and received the calibration data with the
> > returned
> > >>> instrument.
> > >>>
> > >>> best regards,
> > >>>
> > >>> Brian
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 10:38 PM, Russ Ramirez <
> russ.rami...@gmail.com
> > >
> > >>> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> The service manual, or a schematic. I asked just in case someone had
> > one
> > >>>> from an original purchase. I also asked a friend who worked for
> > Keithley,
> > >>>> but apparently no one he knew had one either. Hard to find.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Russ
> > >>>> On Jun 24, 2016 6:26 PM, "Brian Smith" <briansmith23...@gmail.com>
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> What document do you need? Keithley publishes most needed docs.
> > >>>>> On Jun 24, 2016 12:59 PM, "Russ Ramirez" <russ.rami...@gmail.com>
>

Re: [volt-nuts] Keithley 2001 - do you need to open it to calibrate it?

[Todd Micallef]

David,

I have found that many sellers like to remove any calibration stickers or
tamper evident stickers. Not sure why they do that as a sticker does not
mean the item is calibrated.

If you have 14 days, run it through the paces and perform self-tests. There
are some test scripts here https://xdevs.com/article/dmm_noise/ to see if
the meter is measuring close to others.



On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 3:12 PM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) <
drkir...@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk> wrote:

> I got the 2001 that I ordered yesterday. There are a few things that make
> me feel uneasy about it, so I will probably return it.
>
> The calibration seal is missing off the front, which is obvious from the
> eBay photo, but also one at the bottom which looks as though one needs to
> open in order to get inside the unit. That had a seal, but has been broken.
> I'm wondering if that would be a normal part of the calibration routine, or
> if someone has opened this up after it was calibrated.
>
> The cal was due "Jan/12/10", which I assume means the 12th of January 2010.
>
> Also, although when I see the pictures on eBay I never noticed it, a closer
> inspection of the photos .
>
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KEITHLEY-2001-DMM-/152113460174
>
> does show that the hole on the front where a calibration seal would be
> placed, has at one time in the past had a device too large pushed into the
> hole. The hole is no longer round as I would expect it to be.
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Re: [volt-nuts] Thermal EMF of common solder

[Todd Micallef]

Andrea,

Thank you for your research. A few years ago I purchased some Pb free
solder from Radio Shack. I recently discovered it is listed as 96/4 solder.

The part number is 640-0025
https://www.radioshack.com/products/lead-free-solder-0-25-oz?variant=5717831877

The MSDS is listed on the webpage. Any chance you could add it to your
list?

Todd

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 1:55 PM, Andrea Baldoni 
wrote:

> On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 11:55:56AM -0500, David wrote:
>
> > I have a spool of something from Kester that may be Sn96Ag4 but it is
> > only marked Sn96.
>
> Sn96 could also be the trade name for the Sn96.5/Ag3.5.
>
> NameComposition
>
> SAC101  Sn98.9 Ag1.0 Cu0.1
> SAC105  Sn98.5 Ag1.0 Cu0.5
> SAC125  Sn98.3 Ag1.2 Cu0.5
> SAC125+Ni   Sn 98.25 Ag 1.2 Cu 0.5 Ni 0.05
> SAC266  Sn96.8 Ag2.6 Cu0.6
> SAC300  Sn96.95 Ag3.0 Cu0.05
> SAC305  Sn96.5 Ag3.0 Cu0.5
> SAC307  Sn96.3 Ag3.0 Cu0.7
> -   Sn80.8 Sb18 Ni1.2
> -   Sn98.9 Ag1.0 Cu0.5
> SAC350  Sn96.45 Ag3.5 Cu0.05
> SAC387  Sn95.5 Ag3.8 Cu0.7
> SAC400  Sn95.95 Ag4.0 Cu0.05
> SAC405  Sn95.5 Ag4.0 Cu0.5
> Sn96Sn96.5 Ag3.5
>
> (non lead free:)
> Sn63Sn63 Pb37
> Sn62Sn62 Pb36 Ag2.0
> Sn10Sn10 Pb90
>
> The Sn96/Ag4 seems to be for the food service equipment, refrigeration,
> heating, air conditioning, plumbing and not common in electronics.
> The Sn10/Pb90 is also known as low EMF but being non RoHS I don't think
> it's
> easy to find it (though not too dangerous to work with).
>
> I don't know if the .5% Ag between the 96.5/3.5 and 96/4 would change much
> in
> the EMF, I'll test it and report, if I find both.
>
> Best regards,
>  Andrea Baldoni
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Re: [volt-nuts] Thermal EMF of common solder

[Todd Micallef]

I believe it is listed in the document that comes with Keithley's 2188
connector. There is a brief mention here ...

http://www.signaltestinc.com/v/vspfiles/assets/datasheet/Cnctr-Adpt-Tools_Acc.pdf


Todd

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 12:55 PM, David  wrote:

> There was a discussion on EEVBlog about low EMF solders which said
> Keithley recommended Sn96Ag4 but I was never able to confirm it.
>
> I have a spool of something from Kester that may be Sn96Ag4 but it is
> only marked Sn96.
>
>
> http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/low-thermal-emf-solder/msg906573/#msg906573
>
> "just looked for low EMF solder and as stated in other threads
> Keithley suggests for 2182 Sn96/Ag4"
>
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 16:12:38 +0200, you wrote:
>
> >Hello All.
> >
> >I measured the thermal EMF of two common solder, the lead free
> >Sn96.5/Ag3/Cu0.5 and the old Sn60/Pb40.
> >I have ordered a spool of Sn96/Ag4 (the recommended low-thermal-EMF
> replacement
> >for cadmium based one) and I will post the result for this too.
> >I could probably find also Sn97/Ag3 and Sn97/Cu3 if it's reasonable to
> check
> >them; I accept suggestion on what else to try between the RoHS complaint
> ones.
> >
> >Copper - Sn96.5/Ag3/Cu0.5 -> 3.4uV^C
> >Copper - Sn60/Pb40 -> 3.3uV^C
> >
> >Best regards,
> > Andrea Baldoni
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Re: [volt-nuts] Keithley 2182A

[Todd Micallef]

I have to review my notes, but I know of the two bad parts that were found, one 
was the TF-245. I happened to have a spare on hand. I will look through any 
notes to get the other part number.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 26, 2016, at 10:09, Russ Ramirez  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Illya - very nice piece of work!
> 
> Russ
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 5:27 AM, Illya Tsemenko  wrote:
>> 
>> If you looking into repair or internals detail of 2182, this draft article
>> may help: https://xdevs.com/fix/kei2182/
>> Keithley stopped releasing schematics and detailed information since
>> -series instruments due to IP issues.
>> 
>> 26/06/16 18:08, Brian Smith пишет:
>> 
>> Hello Russ
>>> 
>>> It appears that there are neither a service manual nor a schematic
>>> available anywhere.
>>> 
>>> My educated guess is that this is because the 2182A is a current model
>>> instrument. The newest production model keithley gear does not have
>>> associated service manuals nor schematics published. These appear to be
>>> treated as trade secrets.
>>> 
>>> You can have your 2182A serviced by Keithley if it is in need of repair.
>>> 
>>> I had my model 2000 DMM that I bought from eBay serviced by Keihtley for
>>> $560. They replaced the motherboard bringing the DMM up to brand new
>>> condition. I asked for and received the calibration data with the returned
>>> instrument.
>>> 
>>> best regards,
>>> 
>>> Brian
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Jun 24, 2016 at 10:38 PM, Russ Ramirez 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> The service manual, or a schematic. I asked just in case someone had one
 from an original purchase. I also asked a friend who worked for Keithley,
 but apparently no one he knew had one either. Hard to find.
 
 Russ
 On Jun 24, 2016 6:26 PM, "Brian Smith" 
 wrote:
 
 What document do you need? Keithley publishes most needed docs.
> On Jun 24, 2016 12:59 PM, "Russ Ramirez" 
> wrote:
> 
> Just wondering if any of you might have a PDF of the subject
>> 
> Nanovoltmeter?
> 
>> TIA
>> 
>> Russ
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Re: [volt-nuts] PCB fasteners for Datron meters (David C. Partridge)

[Todd Micallef]

I searched Amazon with both Southco part numbers and they appear to show
that they are available for order.

$0.23 for the grommet  http://amzn.com/B01DYYNHP8

$0.21 for the plunger  http://amzn.com/B01DYYL66K

Shipping is not cheap at a fixed $6.50 for each part number. Selecting a
total of 30 each does not affect shipping.

Of course, the "In Stock" status could be wrong ...

On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 6:01 PM, David C. Partridge <
david.partri...@perdrix.co.uk> wrote:

> I fear that none of those WCL fasteners will fit the 3/16 hole (0.188"
> abt. 4.8mm)
>
> Dave
>
> -Original Message-
> From: volt-nuts [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Todd
> Micallef
> Sent: 26 April 2016 21:12
> To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] PCB fasteners for Datron meters (David C.
> Partridge)
>
> Bill,
>
> Was it WCL ? West Coast Lockwashers has some push-pull rivets but I have
> no idea if they will work.
>
>
> https://www.wclco.com/plastic-components/panel-fasteners/panel-fasteners-plastic-rivets/pushpull-rivets-h-type/
>
> They don't look the same but I wouldn't care as long as they were
> functional.
>
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[volt-nuts] PCB fasteners for Datron meters

[Todd Micallef]

Sure. I have a couple of broken fasteners. What is smallish quantities? I
would be willing to take 10 or more if a minimum quantity is needed.

Todd


On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 10:33 AM, David C. Partridge <
david.partri...@perdrix.co.uk
> wrote:

> I think I've managed to identify the fasteners used to secure the PCBs in
> Datron meters and other test equipment.
>
>
>
> I've sent an email to the suppliers to see if I can order in smallish
> quantities.
>
>
>
> Is anyone interested to tag along?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Datron 1281 NVRAM woes

[Todd Micallef]

I will get it this evening. Hope to be finished with work within the next
couple of hours.

On Thursday, April 14, 2016, Bert Kachler  wrote:

> Hi Todd and ??,
>
> thanks for your answers!
> I think it is a good suggestion to
> try to see first whether the Eproms are intact. Firmware is
> Version 3.11 and I have ordered new EProms to put
> a copy of the 3.11 firmware on them, the one
> from https://xdevs.com/fix/d1281/#manual .
> I will fire up my programmer the moment they arrive.
>
> What makes me ponder is that there were suddenly apparently
> two errors after a couple of month's inactivity.
> If two errors appear out of the blue more or less at the same
> time, IMHO it is likely that there is a common reason.
> Hence first the Eprom test. Then perhaps the voltages,
> I still need to figure out what they are supposed to be
> at the test points of the undocumented digital board.
>
> (I am not sure
> whether the NVRAM error came exactly at the same first turn-on
> as the "9005.7 No Rtx001B42" error, because it
> flashes only briefly and I might have overlooked it at first.
> I only noticed it after a few subsequent turn ons, when I tried
> to made a picture to the "9005.7 No Rtx001B42" error display.)
>
> Assuming that nothing of the above works, which is likely,
> then there is still the main question of what the "secondary" part of the
> NVRAM is supposed to be. If it happens just a secondary backup copy
> of the whoke memory, then there might be a chance to
> correct it (like for Solartron 7081 which does keep 2 copies of the data).
>
> I keep you posted. Thanks for your help.
>
> Cheers,
> Bert
>
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Datron 1281 NVRAM woes

[Todd Micallef]

Bert,

I did a test not that long ago for another volt-nut by disconnecting the
cable between the digital and DCV boards. I got the following error:
"9005.9 Pon tru/compl  00173A".

One of mine came with a 9005.7 00150C error and it turned out to be a
disconnected cable on one of the option boards (resistance?). Most likely
not your problem but it could indicate one of the option boards is not
responding. I could try and make some time disconnecting each of the boards
and reporting back their errors. It could narrow down your problem. Let me
know, and I will clear some bench space after work.

Also, another member had issues that were resolved by changing the EPROMs.
Let me know which version you have. The same version may be archived on
xDevs. If you have a programmer, you can verify your checksums against the
archived copy.

Agree with acbern on borked cals. A new cal and SRAM may be in your future
if you can get the other error cleared.


Todd




On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 3:20 AM, Bert K  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> all of a sudden my beloved Datron 1281 stopped working.
> If briefly displays the familiar
> "DCV: Auto 100mV.."
> but then
> "Secondary NV C/SUM ERROR 2101"
> and then
> "9005.7 No Rtx001B42"
>
> The voltages from the DC board PS seem okay, also the
> battery displays only a bit less than 3.7Vol.
>
> Obviously I wonder whether anything can be done here.
> In particular I wonder about the NVRAM setup,
> namely whether "Secondary" could be just a safety copy
> of the "Primary". Or whether this is the less important
> set of self-cal constants, etc.
> I couldn't find any info in the various manuals.
>
>
> Also the second error seems to have to do with
> serial comm, and it is not evident that is has anything
> to do with with the first error. If not, then they could have
> a common underlying reason, like a faulty PS.
>
> The PS of the digital board is different than as the one
> described in the manual, so I can't really check the voltages
> meaningfully. Does anybode have schematics of this
> second (I hear common) type of digital board?
> Or knows otherwise what the voltages on the various
> test points are supposed to be?
>
> Thanks,
> Bert
>
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Before I order the connector for the Solartron 7081 ....

[Todd Micallef]

Try keiconn.com

Kensington Electronics is a distributor, they have a minimum order but you
will probably meet it.

Todd

On Tuesday, March 15, 2016, Pete Lancashire  wrote:

> Anyone recommend a North American source ? or have one they are not using ?
>
> And where asking, any metrology shops one can recommend ?
>
> -pete
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Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7081 .. what to look for

[Todd Micallef]

I have seen the photos of one in a 3458A go bad. Not a pretty sight but it
looks like the gunk is removable.

The input filters are being changed out on most of my older gear
(Fluke,Keithley,Solartron,Datron) and not all of it is Schaffner. I think
that anything going back that far and is potentially plugged in 24/7 needs
as much preventative protection as possible. I have power switches for my
racks so each item can be turned on/off by itself.

Todd

On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 11:21 PM, Pete Lancashire 
wrote:

> Joe/Todd
>
> Helps a lot, just finished getting all the 7081 messages from the archive.
>
> I will be very careful with the connector, if the thing i clean, and
> basically behaves I'll keep it and order the connector/shell and keep my
> eyes open for another connector/cable assembly. Reading Dave's web site the
> thing to look for is a sticker from the factory with the calibration
> voltage for the zener. And of course order a ER3400 to have as a spare.
>
> Ever see one of those Scheffner filters after it has blown up ? I wish I
> still had the photos
>
> -pete
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 7:40 PM, J. L. Trantham  wrote:
>
> > Pete,
> >
> > I have a key that will fit the 'Cal' switch on the front panel and I'll
> be
> > happy to send you a copy if you need it.
> >
> > You don't need the key to take the cover off.  There are four 'dzus'
> > fasteners  on the top and bottom that will allow you to remove the
> covers.
> >
> > You don't need the key to put the meter in the 'Cal' mode but it allows
> > you to do it while leaving the covers on.  IIRC, removing a wire from the
> > 'Cal' switch will put the meter in the 'Cal' mode.  IIRC, the switch is
> > 'closed' in the 'Normal' position and 'open' in the 'Cal' position.  To
> > achieve the 'Cal' mode, just removing a wire from the switch will do the
> > job, IIRC.  Easy to test to make sure I'm correct.  Just remove the wires
> > from the switch (they slide off) and measure to see if it is 'open' or
> > 'closed'.
> >
> > There are a couple of batteries (at least one) that might need to be
> > replaced.  Easy to measure the voltage and see the date code.  Needed for
> > keeping the 'state' but not the Cal constants, IIRC.
> >
> > The connectors for the front and rear panel input connectors can be
> > 'injured' by making connections without the proper connector but you can
> > use some temporary connections to make the tests you refer to.  I have
> the
> > specifics about the proper connectors if you need them.  They are in the
> > 'archives' I think.
> >
> > Good meters but slow compared to the 3458A.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: volt-nuts [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> > Lancashire
> > Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2016 8:54 PM
> > To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
> > Subject: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7081 .. what to look for
> >
> > I just won a Solartron 7081, hopefully did not pay too much.
> >
> > I have 30 days ROR.
> >
> > Other then the usual things in any used piece of equipment, obvious
> > damage, Perfume of Allen Bradly, error messages What are some of the
> thing
> > I should be looking for.
> >
> > The bad news is I do not have a cable or key. Is the key needed to take
> > the cover off ?
> >
> > Someone in the past said the had the key type and a drawing or scan of
> the
> > key are you still here ?
> >
> > I could coble up a cable to do the basic E/I/R checks or is there someone
> > in or near Portland Oregon that has one ?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > -pete
> > ___
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Re: [volt-nuts] Fw: Datron 1281 / 1271 secret GPIB cmds for CALRAM-Readout

[Todd Micallef]

PeLuLe,

I am currently working on two 1281's. If you have anything you would like
me to try, let me know. I am certain my cal constants are not good on one
of them. The battery was just changed a few days ago and it appears to be
the original from '87. I also had some intermittent NVRAM errors.

Replacing caps worked for the first 1281 and cleared the DCV 2182 error.
The project is a WIP and everything is being documented on xDevs.

Also, please post your FW versions. Both of mine are at different revs and
I would like to know the different versions from Datron/Wavetek

On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 2:33 PM,  wrote:

>
>
> > Gesendet: Sonntag, 07. Februar 2016 um 18:30 Uhr
> > Von: ludger.len...@gmx.de
> > An: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com
> > Cc: "Adrian Bernhard" 
> > Betreff: Datron 1281 / 1271 secret GPIB cmds for CALRAM-Readout
> >
> > Hi volt-nuts
> >
> > I like to backup the Datron 1281 CAL RAM data. Mine need to be
> refurbished (caps replacement, case cleaning...)
> > The 1281 quite good in cal (~3ppm difference to my 3458A which had last
> cal 2014/OCT), which I don't want to risk.
> > In any case this migh a helful knowledge for all of us.
> >
> > I am lucky having another 1281 "for part" without a Display- and
> DC-Assembly but a wokring Digital Board.
> > I dumped the ROM to have a deep look into the GPIB commands and searched
> for potential undocumented existing
> > (like it was done for the 3458A already).
> >
> > I found following, in the service and user manual not documented,
> potential commands (?):
> >   RAM = may a RAM command, seems to be the best chance
> >   PRIM = may a subfunction of RAM for primary RAM
> >   SECN = may a subfunction of RAM for secondary RAM
> >
> >   IPZ = no glue yet
> >
> >   YEUK = command to set something, no glue yet about function
> >   YEUK? = query comand of the YEUK command
> >
> >   CALISS? = seems to be a qery for calibration purpose
> >
> > To (hopefully) save some of the allways limited private time, I would
> like to aks, if some of you have seen that commands (?) or have more
> details on them. They may used at other Daltron tools also...
> > Next I will start with the debugging of the unknown remaining commands
> on processor board level.
> >
> > Thanks for help already in advance.
> > BR
> > PeLuLe
> >
> >
> >
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Re: [volt-nuts] Wavetek 1281 - Calibration Key

[Todd Micallef]

I was able to find the manufacturer and part number for  the lock/key
(found it in the service manual)

Rolsecure 5017-04-2Key no. 850

Datron PN# 700115

It looks like the lock will have to come out. The online seller was helpful
but unable to find a suitable blank locally. I will drop it off on Thursday
and hopefully have something by Friday at a local locksmith (including
picture from auction).  If I am successful, I can help get copies made for
other 1271/1281 owners.

Todd

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 8:30 PM, Tom Miller <tmiller11...@verizon.net> wrote:

>
> - Original Message - From: "Todd Micallef" <tmical...@gmail.com>
> To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts@febo.com>
> Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2015 8:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Wavetek 1281 - Calibration Key
>
>
> Unfortunately, when I had my keys made for the 4700, I took the lock out of
>> a broken 1071 to the locksmith. I originally showed them photos of an
>> actual key and they looked at me like I was crazy. I could only find two
>> locksmiths near me for the 4700 and a Valhalla 2724A. Both wanted a lock
>> before they would try to brute force a new key. It appears that the locks
>> are different with the Wavetek gear.
>>
>> I have already sent a message to the seller of the 1271 and I hope to hear
>> something soon. If not, I will desolder the wires and remove the lock and
>> carry it to one of the locksmiths. At least they only charged me $10 for
>> the time and two keys for my Valhalla.
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 12:32 PM, gilb...@nickgilbert.org <
>> gilb...@nickgilbert.org> wrote:
>>
>> Assuming the Wavetek branded meters use the same key as the Datron, the
>>> link below is a 1071 cal/service manual from KO4BB, which has a really
>>> good
>>> photocopy of the calibration key on the last page. Print on cardstock,
>>> sharpie the notches on a suitable blank, take the marked blank to a
>>> locksmith or cut yourself. Better yet, see if the other seller will send
>>> you some photos of the 1271 key. Same process applies.
>>>
>>> I just gave a locksmith the picture and he did all the leg work for $15
>>> and I had it same-day.
>>>
>>>
>>>
> Sometimes there is a number and a name on the key. Googleing the number
> will sometimes find a like key. Also, a locksmith may also be able to find
> a copy.
>
>
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Wavetek 1281 - Calibration Key

[Todd Micallef]

Unfortunately, when I had my keys made for the 4700, I took the lock out of
a broken 1071 to the locksmith. I originally showed them photos of an
actual key and they looked at me like I was crazy. I could only find two
locksmiths near me for the 4700 and a Valhalla 2724A. Both wanted a lock
before they would try to brute force a new key. It appears that the locks
are different with the Wavetek gear.

I have already sent a message to the seller of the 1271 and I hope to hear
something soon. If not, I will desolder the wires and remove the lock and
carry it to one of the locksmiths. At least they only charged me $10 for
the time and two keys for my Valhalla.

On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at 12:32 PM, gilb...@nickgilbert.org <
gilb...@nickgilbert.org> wrote:

> Assuming the Wavetek branded meters use the same key as the Datron, the
> link below is a 1071 cal/service manual from KO4BB, which has a really good
> photocopy of the calibration key on the last page. Print on cardstock,
> sharpie the notches on a suitable blank, take the marked blank to a
> locksmith or cut yourself. Better yet, see if the other seller will send
> you some photos of the 1271 key. Same process applies.
>
> I just gave a locksmith the picture and he did all the leg work for $15
> and I had it same-day.
>
>
>
> http://www.ko4bb.com/manuals/76.107.156.21/Datron_1071_Multimeter_Cal_and_Service_Handbook.pdf
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Re: [volt-nuts] Wavetek 1281 - Selfcal Module

[Todd Micallef]

No problem. I was just looking back at the documents wondering if I missed
anything. The transformer solution is interesting and I see that the 8508A
has a second low voltage transformer (T1). I have no idea if it performs
the same function using a different calibration.

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 9:33 AM, Frank Stellmach  wrote:

> Todd,
>
> you already have sent me the appropriate SelfCAL circuitry, but I did not
> recognize (understand) it as such!
>
> I also received a hint from another volt-nuts, John, about the complete
> documents for the DATRON 1271 on the KO4BB site, which is very similar, and
> also contains a SelfCAL module, being a bit different than the one inside
> the 1281.
>
> The schematics for the 1271, anhow reveal how the transformer inside this
> module provides different voltage ratios. The transformer there is labelled
> +9.93V, +/-7.23V (that's the main references value), 1.83V, 1.00V and 0.19V.
>
> These ratios were generated with a precision switch mode / chopper
> circuit, and as the ratios on a transformer are very stable, you only have
> to measure them once during initial calibration.
>
> Obviously that is good for ppm ratio accuracy in the SelfCAL procedure.
>
> So thanks again
>
> Frank
>
>
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Wavetek 1281 - Selfcal Module

[Todd Micallef]

Ok, I will look at them again. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 30, 2015, at 07:26, Frank Stellmach  wrote:
> 
> Hello Todd,
> 
> many thanks for the reference schematics.
> 
> But that's not the SelfCAL module.
> 
> This should be capable of doing precise 10:1 ratio transfers, (I'm guessing), 
> so recalibrating all ranges and reducing the T.C. You'll find this 
> improvement (by a factor of nearly two) in the specifications, its key word 
> is "Enhanced" specification
> 
> Maybe, when you find some time again, please have a deeper look into the 
> documents.
> 
> Maybe, in the other service manuals, there might be a 'Theory of Operation' 
> chapter?
> 
> Frank
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Re: [volt-nuts] Wavetek 1281 - Selfcal Module

[Todd Micallef]

I recently picked up a 1281 that is throwing a couple of errors. While
researching the problem, I looked for the SelfCAL description and did not
see anything conclusive. I will pull out my schematics and see if there are
any references to a particular module. I was under the impression they were
using the second LTZ1000 reference module for this function but was never
certain.

I have the full repair manuals of the 1281 from Manuals Plus before they
stopped selling. I will look up anything I can find this evening.

Todd

On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 11:59 AM, Frank Stellmach <
frank.stellm...@freenet.de> wrote:

> Hello,
> I'm comparing different "AUTOCAL" techniques, like in the HP3458A, Fluke
> 5440A, 5720A, and have recently discussed  the 34465A/34470A "ACAL" feature
> with Keysight.
>
> The Datron 1281 had a SelfCal feature, which is briefly described as
> relying on a special SelfCal module inside this instrument. This should
> enable the instrument to make a complete (?) recalibration possible,
> between the annual calibration dates, or during room temperature changes,
> maybe comparable to the 3458A ACAL.
>
> The Fluke 8508A is obviously based upon the Datron 1281, but does not have
> this SelfCAL feature & module.
>
> Now, here's my question:
>
> Does any volt-nuts here, have an idea, what's hidden behind this 1281
> SelfCAL module, and how its capability is, also regarding its specification
> improvement?
> Are there any schematics or descriptions available?
>
> Thanks - Frank
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Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 720a self calibration repair

[Todd Micallef]

I noticed that some of the vendors listed overall end-end tcr and at least
one that listed the wiper tcr too. Hopefully you can get the datasheets
with both.

Todd

On Saturday, September 26, 2015, David Garrido  wrote:

> Thank you for all of the input on this folks.
>
> Does anyone have a copy of the datasheet for the original Ramo-Eltra P/N
> 3800P-502?
>
> The reason I ask is that the price of these parts is driven in part by the
> tempco and I found info that indicated 20ppm/C on one website, but that was
> not a DS, just a listing of the info.  If they can be 50ppm/C or even
> 100ppm/C, then the price drops exponentially.
>
> I will do whatever is necessary to maintain or (LOL) improve the 720’s
> legendary performance.
>
> Cheers,
>
> David
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Re: [volt-nuts] Making a Reference IC

[Todd Micallef]

Dave,

What is the problem with the original reference? I have not heard of too
many failing. There was also a reply from Hank on another message. Perhaps
he can provide the needed parts from a 732A?

Todd

On Mon, Sep 14, 2015 at 6:45 PM, Dave M  wrote:

> After making a mess in my garage while searching for it, it turns out that
> that my Fluke is a 731B.  It appears to use the same Voltage Reference IC
> as the 731A, so no big deal there.
> I found a previous discussion about the 731/732 reference ICs.  Seems that
> the ICs are either from Motorola  (MCA1914/MCA1924/MCA1934) or GE (RA3).
> Doubtful that GE continued production of that IC very long, so my guess is
> that these are Motorola parts.  It's all moot, since none of the parts are
> still in production.  I'm afraid to contact Fluke for a quote on the
> IC/Resistor set.  Don't think my heart could stand the shock.
>
> I'd really like to get this unit back in operation, but I don't want to
> break my bank account to do it.  I have a few LM399s on the shelf, so I
> guess that will be my best approach to a repair.
>
> Thanks for the discussion,
> Dave M
>
>
>
>
> M K wrote:
>
>> On 12/09/2015 23:12, Dave M wrote:
>>
>>> I realize that better references are available.
>>>
>>> I was thinking of resurrecting a long-defunct Fluke 731 that I have
>>> in the garage.  The reference IC is bad in it, and (1) I don't want
>>> to throw it away without a meager attempt at repair, and (2) I don't
>>> want to spend a lot of money on it because it's in pretty bad
>>> physical condition.
>>>
>>> I was hoping that someone could lend a touch of advice on those old
>>> references.  I have a few 1N827A reference zeners, and a washtubful
>>> of transistors.  Maybe something could be cobbled together that
>>> would get the 731 back in operation.  Maybe not to original specs,
>>> but close, which is better than nothing.
>>>
>>> Thanks for your reply,
>>> Dave M
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jack Mcmullen via volt-nuts wrote:
>>>
 Just thinking why would you reinvent a transistor/zener reference
 when the industry's voltage reference chips are in the $2.00 or less
 single quanities with performance far exceeding anything previously
 available in discrete components??




 -Original Message-
 From: Dave M dgmin...@mediacombb.net
 To: FEBO Volt-Nuts volt-nuts@febo.com
 Sent: Sat, Sep 12, 2015 1:58 pm
 Subject: [volt-nuts] Making a Reference IC




 I was looking at the schematics for the Fluke 731 and 732 voltage
 references.  these, and several other brands and models of voltage
 references, use the same or similar reference ICs as their basis. The
 reference ICs are a Zener/NPN transistor pair on a single
 substrate. Please view in a fixed-width font such
 as Courier.

|
|
  C |
|
  |
  |
   |
   |  B
  /|
 / |
  E |
|
+---
|
 /--/
   /
  --
|
|

 Just thinking... would it be possible to make a reference with
 similar characteristics with discrete components (a low tempco
 Zener and a transistor)?  They would likely have to be closely
 coupled thermally and
 maintained at a constant temperature within an oven or by a peltier
 device.

 What criteria would apply to the selection of the parts?

 Dave M

>>>
>>> There has been some of those references available second hand from
>> ebay, mostly pulled, but some may be counterfeit, so look for sellers
>> with pictures showing it as old.
>>
>
>
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Re: [volt-nuts] Anyone know how to make stable inductors?

[Todd Micallef]

Here is a DIY guide to making some lab standards. It is detailed with some
component values.

http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/4848/1/JSIR%2065%286%29%20510-513.pdf

On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 8:48 PM, Dave M dgmin...@mediacombb.net wrote:

 Here's a paragraph from IETLab's web site on how their inductance
 standards are made:

 Each standard inductor is a uniformly wound toroid on a ceramic core. It
 has a negligible external magnetic field and hence essentially no pickup
 from external fields. The inductor is resiliently supported in a mixture of
 ground cork and silica gel, after which the whole assembly is cast with a
 poƫting compound into a cubical aluminum case.

 Sounds like their objective is to isolate the winding from as many
 external influences as possible.  Of course, the same couild be said of any
 physical or electrical standard.

 Cheers,
 Dave M




 Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) wrote:

 I was looking to make some inductors that I can use as a sanity check
 for
 my HP 4284A LCR meter. I don't too much care what their values are,
 but I want them to be stable with time. Any suggestions about the
 best way to
 make or buy them? I'd like values in the range of 1 nH to 100 mH.

 The LCR meter has 4 terminal Kelvin connections, with 4 x BNC sockets
 on a 22 mm pitch.

 The meter is at Keysight at the moment being calibrated, along with a
 free software upgrade they are kindly providing. So I'd like to
 measure some inductors when it comes back, and track their values
 over time, to see if the meter is drifting.

 The meter covers 20 Hz to 1 MHz, and has a basic uncertainty of
 0.05%, so ideally I'd like to keep inductor changes to less than
 0.005% over a year, so the inductor is an order of magnitude better
 than the meter. Maybe that is not practical. As I say, the absolute
 value is not important, since I only want a comparison.

 The calibration costs on this meter are not too bad (£207 GBP), but
 the calibration interval is 6 months, which is a bit annoying. I'd
 rather not
 be sending it off every 6 months if I can satisfy to myself it has not
 drifted too much. Luckily I don't need to satisfy anyone else.

 Dr. David Kirkby Ph.D CEng MIET
 Kirkby Microwave Ltd
 Registered office: Stokes Hall Lodge, Burnham Rd, Althorne, Essex,
 CM3 6DT, UK.
 Registered in England and Wales, company number 08914892.
 http://www.kirkbymicrowave.co.uk/
 Tel: 07910 441670 / +44 7910 441670 (0900 to 2100 GMT only please)



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Re: [volt-nuts] Precision resistors

[Todd Micallef]

David,

Depending on the time frame needed for these resistors you can order many
(but not all) of the parts from Farnell. I believe the Rhopoint resistors
are the recommended brand. The high value resistors could be Caddock USF
series.

Another alternative would be to contact Edwin Pettis. He manufacturers
custom resistors and does ship internationally. He is working on a
'project' for me that requires a replacement precision resistor. I am not
sure if he can make the highest values.

Your other alternative would be to order a couple of these
http://www.precisionresistor.com/Digital-Multimeter-Calibrator/

They have made me some custom sets, so I know it can be done. The 10M
resistor prices are extremely high and the turn around for the custom sets
can be long. They do not make 20M WW resistors last time I checked. You
will probably still need to buy separate resistors from Caddock.

I am guessing the Fluke 5450A is difficult to get or is too expensive where
you live.

Todd

On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 11:25 AM, David C. Partridge 
david.partri...@perdrix.co.uk wrote:

 Looking for a set of precision resistors for calibration purposes.

 I need the following values to calibrate the ohms ranges on my meters:

 100
 1k
 2k
 10k
 20k
 100k
 200k
 1M
 2M
 10M
 20M

 The crucial factor isn't that they be *exactly* the values above, so I
 don't necessarily need 0.001% parts.  Low TCR is important, and I will need
 to know that actual values to 10ppm or better.

 I'm looking for suggestions on the best choice of parts and pricing?  I
 believe the Vishay HZ series may fit the bill for the lower values but they
 may be rather expensive.

 Regards,
 David Partridge

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Re: [volt-nuts] Test Leads

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I made my own version of the Fluke 5440A-7003 cables here ...


http://us.flukecal.com/products/accessories/test-leads-probes-and-clips/5440a-7003

I bought some Belden 8719 cable, blue Pomona patch cables (B-18-6), and
some gold-plated spade lugs from here http://jswilley.com/Accessories.html

The most expensive part was the crimping tool. If you have access to one ,
you can make some good quality cables for less than the low-thermal Pomona
cables. You can also make them to whatever length you need.

Todd

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 12:33 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I recently acquired a Fluke 752A to go with my Fluke 732A and HP-3458A.
 Now I need to address the need for low thermal test leads.  Does anyone
 have any suggestions for test leads that have low thermal contributions to
 measurements?  I have looked at Pomona 1756 Low Thermal EMF Cables as a
 starting point but haven't found any other candidates.

 I have heard that old TV twin lead works well since most are stranded
 copper wire.  I have tried it between my 732A and 3458A and it seems to
 work fine but I would like to use more professional looking test leads,
 particularly with correct copper spade lugs (Pomona 2305 Low thermal EMF
 spade lug, Gold-plated?).  Any other suggestions?

 Thanks,

 Randy Evans AE6YG
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Re: [volt-nuts] easy 3458A AC calibration

[Todd Micallef]

I used a Fluke 5100B and 8920A for my SCAL calibration. I got lucky and it 
passed at Agilent. I think if you use a 3325A , you should get results that are 
close.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On May 20, 2015, at 15:46, Electronics and Books via volt-nuts 
 volt-nuts@febo.com wrote:
 
 It is stated that the ac calibration of a 3458 is so difficult. at least the 
 equipment mentioned is so difficult to obtain. but look what you need. a hp 
 signal generator 3325 where i have a pile of (any other good generator will 
 do to), an other hp 3458 and 3 different thermocouples. very expensive 
 nowhere to be found and very delicate. hp not procduced them for 40 years or 
 ballantine which cost more then the meter your calibrating.
 but now for the accuracy. the signal generator has only 3 digits of amplitude 
 resolution. if you see the accuracy in the hp protocol what to measure it is 
 not possible to generate that.
 and for the thermocouples. they give only millivolts. you need an other 3458 
 with no offset or better a nanovolt meter to measure them.
 a far easier solution is a hp powersensor 8482a on a hp power meter. it is a 
 thermocouple of the correct frequency range and can be measured accurate 
 enough for the generator.
 the ac calibation is not an exact value as the volt or resistor but only a 
 deviation in the frequency range. it is even difficult to obtain the 
 deviation in 3 digits.
 ok it took me an hour but then i was done.
 
 
 Regards
 
 Frans
 
 
 i...@electronicsandbooks.com
 Netherlands
 
 Discere ne cesses
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Re: [volt-nuts] Bls: Bls: How accurate is a fluke after 9 years

[Todd Micallef]

The 5700A5720A verification test lists a maximum deviation from nominal on
the resistance ranges. Is there any information on how well Fluke's hybrid
resistors are maintaining their specs over the lifetime of the calibrator?
Anyone have access to long term records of the resistance values?


Todd

On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 2:13 AM, acb...@gmx.de wrote:

 it is this resistor, in its z-foil version.
 they can be ordered from vpg distributors also in small qty (some may have
 a min. order value), lead time is usually pretty high.


  Gesendet: Montag, 18. Mai 2015 um 02:39 Uhr
  Von: Anton Moehammad via volt-nuts volt-nuts@febo.com
  An: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
  Betreff: [volt-nuts] Bls:  Bls:  How accurate is a fluke after 9 years
 
  Hi All,
  in the Vishay web I found a better in spec resistor than  vha512,
 could somebody give a comment ?
  http://www.vishaypg.com/docs/63120/hzseries.pdfThey also offer non
 standard value, anybody has experience in Vishay non standard value ?
 
  Thank You
 
 
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Re: [volt-nuts] How accurate is a fluke after 9 years

[Todd Micallef]

Frans,

Do you perform an in-house calibration with a 10V reference and 1 ohm  10k 
resistors? I have been studying the recommended calibration intervals of 
Fluke's 57xx series calibrators and I wonder how well the unit maintains its 
stability over long intervals between trips to a cal lab.

Also, if you don't mind, would you give a ballpark figure for the cost of cal 
from your cal lab?

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On May 15, 2015, at 14:50, Electronics and Books via volt-nuts 
 volt-nuts@febo.com wrote:
 
 My Fluke 5700A calibrator was calibrated today after 9 years. It displays how 
 much it deviated from the last calibration. For the both voltage references i 
 got 0.0 ppm and for the internal 10k resistor -1.7 ppm.
 Only the amplifier for the 11-22 volt range drifted 1700 ppm for it depends 
 on a voltage divider composed of two normal metalfilm resistors. These will 
 be replaced by 2 vishay 0.01% resistors which are hopefully more stable.
 
 Regards
 
 Frans
 
 
 
 Discere ne cesses
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Re: [volt-nuts] HP-3458a display board

[Todd Micallef]

Definitely good price. My replacement display board for a Keithley 2400 was 
~$480.00 US. I could have replaced a few 3458A boards for a little more. 
Agilent typically sent me parts next day for no additional overnight charge. 
Keithley/Tek was ~$30 for standard shipping.

The bad thing is that the front/rear schadow switch was listed at the old A10 
assembly price. I don't know if it was a mistake, but I grabbed a few extra 
before the Keysight change. The switches do go bad as I have changed them on 
two older meters. 

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 15, 2015, at 23:08, Tom Knox act...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 Hi Randy;
 I saw the same thing, That is a great deal, I though they were much more 
 expensive. Even at half the price I would use the Keysight exchange program 
 since they recently started offering free courier pick up, In addition you 
 would have a warranty and most likely have a new VFD.
 Cheers;
 Thomas Knox
 
 Ascent Concepts and Technology
 
 4475 Whitney Place
 Boulder Colorado 80305
 
 1-303-554-0307
 
 Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2015 14:39:38 -0700
 From: randyevans2...@gmail.com
 To: volt-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] HP-3458a display board
 
 FYI,
 
 I contacted Keysight and found the exchange program is still in place.  The
 PN is 03458-69517 and the price is $278.
 
 Randy Evans AE6YG
 
 On Wed, Apr 15, 2015 at 12:05 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 I need to replace the display board for my HP-3458A (several dim to
 missing pixels).  There used to be a swap program for the display board but
 I can't find it on Keysight's website.  Does anyone know if it's still
 available?  If so, how do I find it?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Randy Evans
 
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Re: [volt-nuts] Calibration of voltage standards

[Todd Micallef]

A Data Proof scanner seems to be the standard of some primary labs. They
don't show up often on the auction site.

This company makes one that fits the front of a 732B. I have never seen it
in use.

http://www.hpd-online.com/reversing_switch.php

There also appears to be a Guildline 9600 up for auction. It is misspelled
Guideline. I don't know the specs of that item, I have just noticed it has
been listed for a while.

Some of the Keithley instruments take low thermal cards, but they are not
reversible as far as I can tell. You might be able to do so with two
separate inputs. It is a Keithley 7168 nanovolt scanner card. If you can
get one, I am pretty sure you can plug it into a 7001/7002 scanner.

A home made switch might be cheaper if you can source some good low thermal
latching relays.

Todd

On Wed, Feb 11, 2015 at 12:35 PM, Ken Peek ken.p...@diligentminds.com
wrote:

 I forgot to mention that I also own a PPM Inc. Model AVM-100 null meter.
 Works great on AC but I need to replace the NiCd batteries for it to
 work on batteries.  It has a 1uV scale, and it is a bit noisy on that
 scale.  I intend to modify it to get batter 1/f noise specs on the 1uV
 scale.

 Does anyone know where I can get [or how to make] a low-thermal-EMF
 switch [or relay]?  This would need to be a DPDT type to be able to
 reverse the connection to the meter.  Ideas?

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Re: [volt-nuts] 3458A reference boards on ebay

[Todd Micallef]

There is currently a thread on EEVBlog where one has already been built. I
believe it can be purchased once the final layout is completed.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/project-kx-diy-calibrator-reference-sourcemeter/

Todd

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 8:24 AM, Dr. David Kirkby (Kirkby Microwave Ltd) 
drkir...@kirkbymicrowave.co.uk wrote:

 On 30 January 2015 at 12:25, Will willvo...@gmail.com wrote:
  The boards are factory rejects.

 I doubt all boards on eBay are in this category. Some are probably
 quite genuine, some may be rejects, and it would never surprise me if
 some are counterfeit. The problem is, I have no idea what ones are
 what.

 I don't know what the problems sourcing the parts for making a
 reference would be, but if a number of people wanted to make one from
 parts, perhaps someone could produce a PCB and people contribute
 towards the cost of it. Maybe leave people to get their own reference
 chip, as there are different grades of that. But things like the
 precision resistors may be easier to buy in a quantity of 10 rather
 than 1.

 I would certainly not mind buying one if a PCB was available. Even if
 it works out costing a bit more than a 3458A reference from eBay, I'd
 feel a bit happier.

 Dave
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Re: [volt-nuts] Design Spark PCB Design Package

[Todd Micallef]

Has anyone had any Gerber file compatibility issues with batch pcb
manufacturers? For example, pad sizes or trace widths not matching what is
on the screen.

Todd

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 4:41 PM, David C. Partridge 
david.partri...@perdrix.co.uk wrote:

 Lack of forward/back annotation would kill it for me too!

 Dave

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Re: [volt-nuts] The averaging reference

[Todd Micallef]

I believe the 1281 uses the LTZ1000. The datasheet mentions dual references.

My 4920 has both a ltz1000 and a lm399. I think you can find pics of the
1281 dual ref setup on eevblog.

I would not be surprised if the 8508a has a similar configuration.

Todd

On Saturday, December 20, 2014, Richard Moore richiem5...@gmail.com wrote:


 The Datron 1081/1082 are 7-1/2 digit meters. The zeners are two pair of
 two zeners in series to get the ref voltage up high enough. In the two
 1081s I had, they worked quite well, ref’d to the two Fluke 732As I had at
 the time. But not 8-1/2 digit grade, I don’t think. I have no idea what the
 127x/128x sereis use; probably the LTZ1000A...
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Re: [volt-nuts] Agilent 34970A (34401A) self test error 606

[Todd Micallef]

Andrea,

If the problem is related to temperature, maybe you can find the offending
part by freezing it?

Todd

On Sat, Dec 13, 2014 at 1:46 PM, Poul-Henning Kamp p...@phk.freebsd.dk
wrote:

 
 In message 20141213183546.ga27...@sol.ermione.com, Andrea Baldoni
 writes:

 Someone has the detailed description of the Multislope III patent?

 Much of what goes on in HP34401A and later meters is derived from the
 HP3458A, so reading the HPJ articles about the HP3458A is useful.

 --
 Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
 p...@freebsd.org | TCP/IP since RFC 956
 FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
 Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
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Re: [volt-nuts] Datron 1281 calibration enable key

[Todd Micallef]

I did the same for my Datron 4700 and Valhalla 2724a. I took a picture of that 
ebay listing to the locksmith for a laugh. The lock on the 4700 came out easily 
once the outer threaded cap of the lock was removed.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Dec 7, 2014, at 11:10, David C. Partridge david.partri...@perdrix.co.uk 
 wrote:
 
 1) Can you get into the case and remove the lock-switch? If yes, see 2)
 
 2) Take lock to lock-smith, get key made.  If they can't make a key to fit, 
 they're not a lock-smith! 
 
 Regards,
 David Partridge 
 -Original Message-
 From: volt-nuts [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of 
 ludger.len...@gmx.de
 Sent: 07 December 2014 14:20
 To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
 Subject: [volt-nuts] Datron 1281 calibration enable key
 
 I am searching for the calibration enable key for my Datron 1281.
 At EBAY one key for the Wavetek 4808 Calibrator is offered.
 
 Does anybody know if this key fits also to the Datron 1281?
 
 Thanks for Help.
 
 PeLuLe / Germany
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Re: [volt-nuts] Completion of LED Mod's for the Fluke 845AB 845AR Null Meter.

[Todd Micallef]

I have uploaded the mod file to the ko4bb ftp server. I could not find the
AR or AB manuals so I also added them. Right now they are sitting in the
Recent Uploads directory.


Todd

On Sun, Nov 23, 2014 at 10:31 PM, Dallas Smith dosm...@outlook.com wrote:

 Thank you, that will be fine. I'm getting swamped with request. could you
 start a volt-nuts thead to its location?

  Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2014 22:20:17 -0500
  From: tmical...@gmail.com
  To: volt-nuts@febo.com
  Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Completion of LED Mod's for the Fluke 845AB 
 845AR Null Meter.
 
  Dallas,
 
  Thanks for the information.
 
  Would you be opposed to uploading it to the KO4BB website? I think Didier
  could place it in a Fluke 845AB/AR folder. I could upload it with a copy
 of
  the manuals and send him an email.
 
  Todd
 
  On Sun, Nov 23, 2014 at 10:02 PM, Dallas Smith dosm...@outlook.com
 wrote:
 
   How do I make my RTF attachment available to Volt-nuts? I do not trust
   cloud servers and the like.
  
   Dallas
  
  
   On 11/23/2014 1:29 PM, Dallas Smith wrote:
  
   To All,
  
   The final modification of the Fluke null meters with LED's is
 completed.
   The results is impressive, keeping the basic original circuit of the
   meters. My rev 8 AR version has a double diode in the output stage
 which
   seems to remove the zeroing hysteresis around a zero reading was also
 made
   to my 845AB. Implementing two 1.2v reference diodes in the zeroing
 circuit
   greatly improved the zero drift for the zeroing control. There were
 also
   changes to the feedback response by changing two capacitors. If
 anyone is
   interested, please E-mail me at my personal address.
  
   dosm...@outlook.com
  
   Dallas
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Re: [volt-nuts] Precision resistor testing

[Todd Micallef]

Andreas has a good thread on EEVblog

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/t-c-measurements-on-precision-resistors/

I am guessing that you want to calculate the alpha and beta coefficients
over a certain temperature range? I am also interested in doing something
similar, having collected different bits of gear. I already have the
modified box and peltier controller. The temperature chamber will be
similar to what Joe Geller used for his references.

http://www.gellerlabs.com/SVR_TempcoTest.htm

I do not know of any company or person that offers this service.  It would
certainly make a good volt-nut project.

Todd



On Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 5:36 PM, Richard Moore richiem5...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I’ve built a little box with two 10kohm precision resistor assemblies,
 using Fluke resistors — one ass’y is two 20k managing wire on shellacked
 mica cards in parallel, and the other is made of eight 5k wire wounds in
 sealed green plastic cases in series/parallel. These are not exactly 10k
 ohms each, but are about 30ppm (high) for the mica card, and 20ppm (low)
 for the green plastics, according to my HP 3458A.

 I would like to get them accurately characterized, but never having done
 this, I don’t know who to have do it or how much it would cost. Any ideas
 or suggestions? They can be shipped anywhere cheaply as the box is small,
 light, and very durable.

 TIA
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Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 893 vs 895.........or other?

[Todd Micallef]

David,

Congratulations on your new (to you) gear. I had typed a long drawn out
response that was putting me to sleep. I decided to reduce it to a couple
of paragraphs.

The problem with testing / calibrating standards and references is that you
need an even more accurate measurement system, a catch-22. The differential
meters called out in the procedures have to be within spec to be of any
use, especially the 931B. The only way to know this is to run their
performance test or send them to a cal lab. My thoughts are that you might
be better off getting a DMM that can give you more manageable calibrations.
It may not have the same short term accuracies, but you won't have to
adjust pots every 60 days(or less) as called out in the 895A calibration
procedure. This meter would be your home lab transfer standard.

Since you are using large rack mountable gear, I would add a good bench
meter to the calibration setup. One of my favorites is the Fluke 8506A. It
is not the smallest or newest DMM out there but it has great AC/DC specs.
It also has 7 1/2 digits on the 10V DC range. You could substitue it for
the Fluke 540B/931B, the differential voltmeters, DC Voltmeter, etc... in
the calibration procedures. I think that you would find it easier to send
to a cal lab than an older diff voltmeter. I prefer them with the
resistance option. Unfortunately, the current shunt option does not support
AC and you cannot have both resistance and current options installed. They
are mutually exclusive.

The 845AB/AR are good null meters. The AB has slightly better specs, but
the AR is rack mountable. If you haven't guessed, I have a fascination with
rack gear that goes back to my Army days. The Keithley 155 is also good,
and has a solid-state chopper as opposed to the photo choppers in the 845.
I have the 845AR and I recommend it since the other null meters seem to
typically carry a higher premium on fleabay.

I think it comes down to the level of accuracy and precision needed for
your home lab. My home lab gets a voltage reference, standard resistor, and
a couple of DMM's calibrated. The rest of the gear gets tested based on how
well I can transfer those cals to my other standards.

I am currently reading a book from Fluke called Calibration: Philosophy in
Practice. It seems to be a collection of everything I have found online
about calibration, but contained in one book. It is worth the money if you
can buy it used.

Looking back, this response is probably longer than the original.

Todd



On Tue, Nov 4, 2014 at 8:46 AM, David Garrido d.garr...@me.com wrote:

 Hello All,

 I am in the process of putting together AC/DC voltage standards in the
 home lab.  I want to add the necessary equipment to check out the gear and
 need a differential voltmeter / null detector as called out in the service
 manuals for the Fluke 5200A and 332D that I have recently acquired.   I am
 new enough to this that it would be helpful for me to have the brain trust
 here offer a little experience to my thoughts.

 The manual for the Fluke 332D stipulates that I need (2) 895A or
 equivalent.

 The Fluke 5200A manual calls for a Fluke 887A and a 931A or equivalent.

 And... I will be adding a Fluke 5205A to
 finish off the standards.

 There is a very nice 893A at a local shop with ALL factory new accessory
 cords and a fair price.  Will this fill the bill or should I be looking
 specifically for the 895, 887, and 931?

 Orare there any others that are better suited, like the
 845A.  Fluke has so many darn Differential Voltmeters and Null-Detectors
 that it seems a daunting task to sort it all out.

 Cheers,

 David
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732A rear panel battery connector

[Todd Micallef]

The cable connector for the 7061/7071/7081 is S-104-A053-130+

You will also need a cable clamp based on the size of the cable. Mine can
handle cables from 5.7mm-6.7mm.

http://ecommerce.keiconn.com/fischer-connectors/E3-104-3-6-7-B

You can find the different clamps in this catalog on page 6.

www.fischerconnectors.com/us/fr/content/alulite-series-catalogue

The rear reference input connector is a Switchcraft 05CL5MX.

I also had to replace the front panel connector as it had been damaged. The
replacement connector part number is D-104-A053-130
The replacement went quickly once the front panel was removed.

Todd





On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 4:52 AM, acb...@gmx.de wrote:

 do you know what the part number is for the 7081 connector? I just
 purchased a 7071 and would need one.
 thanks


  Gesendet: Dienstag, 14. Oktober 2014 um 03:26 Uhr
  Von: Todd Micallef tmical...@gmail.com
  An: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
  Betreff: Re: [volt-nuts] 732A rear panel battery connector
 
  Randy,
 
  I had ordered the connectors from Fluke, but they do not come with the
  contacts.
 
  The best place to get one is from Kensington Electronics. They cost me
  $9.06 ea. back in March. The shipping costs were not included.
  Unfortunately, they have a minimum order and you would need to order
 about
  6 to meet it.
  Here is a link to the part I ordered earlier this year...
 
  http://ecommerce.keiconn.com/hypertronics/D01PB306FSTAH
 
 
  They also sell the Fischer connectors for the Solartron 7081.
 
 
 
  Todd
 
  On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 8:16 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
   Does anyone have a spare connector plug for the 732A external battery
   connector that they would be willing to sell.  Or conversely, a good
 Fluke
   PN for the connector ( I saw several in discussions but I'm not sure
 which
   is the best part number to use).
  
   Thanks,
  
   Randy Evans
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732A rear panel battery connector

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I had ordered the connectors from Fluke, but they do not come with the
contacts.

The best place to get one is from Kensington Electronics. They cost me
$9.06 ea. back in March. The shipping costs were not included.
Unfortunately, they have a minimum order and you would need to order about
6 to meet it.
Here is a link to the part I ordered earlier this year...

http://ecommerce.keiconn.com/hypertronics/D01PB306FSTAH


They also sell the Fischer connectors for the Solartron 7081.



Todd

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 8:16 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Does anyone have a spare connector plug for the 732A external battery
 connector that they would be willing to sell.  Or conversely, a good Fluke
 PN for the connector ( I saw several in discussions but I'm not sure which
 is the best part number to use).

 Thanks,

 Randy Evans
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Re: [volt-nuts] Banana jack probes for Fluke 8506A, etc.

[Todd Micallef]

How about the ones recommended for the 3458a?

http://www.newark.com/agilent-technologies/34137a/test-lead-1kv/dp/01P1238

It is getting harder to find quality leads that fit a standard binding post.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Oct 7, 2014, at 16:25, Mark Kahrs mark.ka...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What probes would you recommend for my Fluke 8506A?  I have some nasty ones
 on right now, but it is telling me that I should be treating it better.
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Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7081 Calibration

[Todd Micallef]

I wonder if Ametek can be persuaded to release any official calibration / 
performance testing procedures if they are no longer supporting the 7081. Does 
any one here have any contacts at Ametek?

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 28, 2014, at 12:14, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote:
 
 I know Ametek stopped supporting the 7081 a few years ago but did offer 
 support 'best efforts' along with calibration.  I managed to have my two sent 
 to Ametek most recently about 2 years ago.
 
 I'm a bit surprised that they no longer offer a 'calibration' service.  I 
 wonder why.  Not wanting to get into all the 'meets performance and 
 specifications' tests perhaps?
 
 Joe
 
 -Original Message-
 From: volt-nuts [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of J May
 Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 8:30 AM
 To: volt-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7081 Calibration
 
 I need to have a Solartron 7081 calibrated - can anyone recommend someplace 
 in the UK (or the EU)?
 
 Unfortunately Ametek no longer provide a calibration service for the meter.
 
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[volt-nuts] Fluke 732A pre-regulator revs

[Todd Micallef]

I wanted to pass on some information that may not have been previously
discussed.

I just finished working on a 732A with minor issues. I replaced the R10 and
R20 pots on the A3 board just like on my other 732A's along with the two
big caps C1 and C3. After performing the same battery charger procedure
that I used on the other three references, I could not get the charger to
go from CC mode to CV mode. I checked the output charge voltage and it
never reached the 31V necessary to change to CV. The manual I used was PN
645051.

I went through the board and found four carbon comp resistors out of
tolerance (R3,R6,R15-16), but they didn't seem to be causing my problem. I
changed them anyway and decided to use the procedure in the other 732A
manual PN788414.

The other procedure differs only by the setting of R20. Instead of setting
it to 33V, I set it to 28.2V.
I looked at the schematics and noted that Fluke made some subtle changes to
the design. R17 and R18 were changed to CR29 and CR30. The RT1 thermistor
was also removed. R19 was added through an errata/change. R16 changed from
10K to 100K.

The newer procedure worked fine and I could watch the charger voltage
increase to 31V and then drop to CV mode.

I looked through my other three references. One other had the newer design.
A second one was modified and RT1 was removed. There was an additional 15K
resistor in parallel with R19 near the card edge connector. I removed it
since this resistor does not exist in the newer design.

The last reference is of the older type and has worked fine with the older
procedure. I do not know if the newer procedure will work with the older
rev.

I have adjusted the other two A3 pcb's using the newer procedure and they
seem to be working fine. I noticed that one of the references was having
the same symptoms after a recent power outage. This may have been partially
the reason for some of my battery failures.

I hope this may be of help for those that may be having issues with the
battery charger.


Todd
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Re: [volt-nuts] Old HP3458A - SN: 2823A 03939

[Todd Micallef]

I have replaced a fan in one of my 3458A. I used this one ... 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/622L/381-2266-ND/1131198

I contacted ebm-papst with the original part number. They were not able to pull 
the original specs to offer a newer sub. I happened to notice it was made in 
West Germany. They told me that there was no information available and that the 
one I selected was close based on the label.

It works fine but it seems to be slightly louder than the other two older 
3458A. The original connecter has to be spliced onto the bare wire of the new 
fan.

I agree with keeping the older one and only change it if the fan fails or is 
too loud.


Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 22, 2014, at 10:02, Frank Stellmach frank.stellm...@freenet.de wrote:
 
 
 Hello,
 
 to update such an old instrument you need the following components:
 
 1EA DS1220AD-150+, about 8$ from maxim/Dallas or distributor
 2EA DS1230Y-150+, about 30$
 6EA 27C512-100, about 20$, STM
 4EA 62256-80, about 10$
 3 precision DIL sockets for nvSRAMs
 
 I assume, the firmware will be the earliest one, (#2 ??)  and also the 
 calibration will be old, but still valid, i.e. the calibration constants in 
 the nv-SRAMs might not be corrupted yet.
 
 You will have to read out the CALRAM content first over HPIB (described here 
 and elsewhere), then (easily) desolder the 3 nv-SRAMs.
 Replace these by the precision DIL sockets.
 Copy the 2kB CALRAM content into the fresh one, and assemble these 3 RAMs.
 The content of the 2x32KB RAMs will be initialized automatically.
 And the calibration, especially for the higher frequency AC measurements, 
 will be conserved for the next 10..20 years.
 Also plug in these 4 SRAMs for cheap opt. 1. (148K memory)
 
 After these updates - and only if you really need a fresh calibration, i.e. 
 if you don't have access to precise 10V and 10kOhm, you may spend these  500€ 
 for calibration by a HP or Fluke lab.
 
 Firmware 9 you may buy from Keysight, but order the single EPROM (4MBit) 
 version for about  30$, or so, but you have to split that content bytewise 
 into the six EPROMs (all FW versions are obviously compatible concerning the 
 different HW versions).
 They take around 200$ for the old 6 EPROMs version only..
 
 Maybe a friendly volt-nuts is able to assist at that point ;-)
 
 
 Yep, the fan is quite loud, but might still work all right, so keep it.
 Nobody has identified a better (less noisier) part yet.
 
 If the plastic filter is intact, you only have to disassemble and clean it 
 carefully, and that's it.
 (That has to be done on regular basis anyhow, so that Ti = (Ta + 15°C) at 
 any time).
 
 Service Note 18-A,  formally applies to a certain batch of agilent 
 instruments only, S/N US28031400 - US28032927, as it is indicated on that 
 note. On that batch, the LTZ1000 was unstable, and the A/D converter caused 
 short-term out-of-spec.
 
 We have discussed that, and it's not clear, whether the first issue might 
 also apply to all LTZ references in general, if they are not powered 
 continuously.. Remember that the LTZ1000 @ 95°C is at least 8 times less 
 stable than at the regular 65°C, and it is hysteretic at that elevated 
 temperature, so the 1yr. stability of 8ppm or even 4ppm can only be 
 guaranteed by pre-selection of the reference module.
 
 But I strongly assume, that this old HP instrument is not affected at all by 
 SN 18A.
 
 After that, the instrument will be as good as new, best case for 70$ in total.
 
 Frank
 
 
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Re: [volt-nuts] More grounding guarding references

[Todd Micallef]

http://www.hparchive.com/appnotes.htm

http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/application_notes/41727248AN_347.pdf



Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 4, 2014, at 9:48, Dave Daniel kc0...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Do you mean that they are on the web, or that they should be and you haven't 
 found them, or that they are on the web?
 
 Cheers.
 
 DaveD
 
 On 9/4/2014 7:16 AM, Charles Steinmetz wrote:
 Two more grounding  guarding references that should be available on the web:
 
 HP Application Note 123 -- floating measurements and guarding
 
 Analog Devices Application Note 347 -- shielding  guarding
 
 Best regards,
 
 Charles
 
 
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Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 732A battery module (and possible circuit replacement)

[Todd Micallef]

Mark,

If you need any scans or measurements, let me know. I have one that will be 
disassembled for the next 24hrs. I can get this for you tomorrow evening before 
I replace the batteries.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 25, 2014, at 21:10, Mark Sims hol...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 I have a 732A that is missing its battery module.  Does anybody have or know 
 of a source for a replacement?
 Also,  would there be any interest in a replacement circuit assembly for the 
 battery module?  It would probably consist of a small board that plugs into 
 the 2x6 pin edge connector and another small board with the ballast 
 lamp/diode/resistor/thermistors and connections for the 
 battery/switch/external power jack.  The two boards would be connected by a 
 short ribbon cable and would allow one to add batteries to a 732A that is 
 missing the battery module.  It would not be a complete battery module with 
 the metal frame and backplate... 
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732A and Prologix received

[Todd Micallef]

 and they have very low current draw (~2 to 3 mA at 13.5
  VDC) when charged and at their float voltage, so I am pretty sure they
 are
  in good condition.  I will look at getting those in the units after I
  ascertain the condition of the 732.
 
  So now I have a what appears to be a functioning 3458A and a 732A but
 they
  slightly disagree.  I am like the man with two watches that disagree on
 the
  time  - which is correct?  For the moment, i am only concerned with
  stability.  The need for absolute accuracy will come later.
 
  Randy
 
 
  On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 8:06 PM, Todd Micallef tmical...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
   Randy,
  
   You have two possible choices. It can be configured with 4 x 6v 4Ah
   batteries or 2 x 12v 7Ah batteries. Hopefully the previous owner has
   modified the battery pack already. A couple of mine needed a nibbler
 tool
   to remove enough of the aluminum cover that fits over the tops of the
   batteries. The original cover will short out to the battery tabs
 regardless
   of the battery configuration if this is not done.
  
   You can find larger capacity batteries that will give you slightly more
   battery life. I lost a couple sets of mail-order batteries after a few
   extended outages. I would recommend going with locally bought batteries
   instead of the cheaper mail order. My local Batteries Plus will
 typically
   have some warranty if I remember correctly. Moving forward I will only
 use
   2 12v batteries and pre-charge them on a battery charger to equalize
 them
   before putting them in the 732A. I think the cheap batteries did not
   discharge equally, and would not recover when power was applied.
  
   Inspect the back plane for damaged traces and look at the capacitors. I
 had
   a few that looked questionable. So far, I have replaced all the big
 caps
 on
   the pre-regulator and regulator boards. My feeling is that once these
 go
   online, they should run as long as possible between repairs.
  
   The battery charger circuit may need adjusting. I tweaked mine and it
   seemed to work fine.
  
   Todd
  
  
   On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 10:42 PM, Randy Evans 
 randyevans2...@gmail.com
   wrote:
  
I received my Fluke 732A today.  Just powered it up but it needs new
batteries.  Any suggestions for sources (I haven't opened up the unit
   yet -
I want to make sure it works before doing that).  Also received the
ProLogix USB-GPIB adapter.  I plan on using Mark Sims' CAL ran data
   dumper
program to get the CAL data from my 3458A.  Should be a busy weekend.
   
Randy
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Re: [volt-nuts] Looking for Datron 4000 series calibration key!

[Todd Micallef]

Chris,

Where do you live? I just had some keys made last week for my Datron units.
The first set fit my 4000A and 1071, but they did not fit my 4700. The
4000A key looked more like the pictures online, but the 4700 was completely
different.
Someone may have rekeyed or damaged the lock on the 4700. I ended up
putting the 1071 tumbler in my 4700. The original one will eventually end
up in the 1071.

Removing the 4000 switch should not be too bad. On my 4700, I have four
philips screws in the back corners. I also have three that go across the
top. One of them is behind the filter cover. I pulled the back cover away
from the frame enough to get to the switch. The switch is held to the back
cover by its outer collar. It threads on the lock and can be loosened with
some soft jaw pliers. If you can get it out, any good locksmith can make
you a set in a day.


Todd


On Sun, Aug 24, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Chris caal...@gmail.com wrote:

 Would anyone have a spare key I could purchase? I understand that you can
 simple bypass the key with a shorting switch, but I am trying to keep my
 setup looking as authentic as possible. Thanks!
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732A drift

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I looked at the 3458a input impedance, and it is difficult to get the meter set 
to the FixedZ (10M) mode. However, the 100v range is 10M. It should default to 
HiZ on reset.

I forgot to mention to check the outputs and guard resistance to ground. One of 
my 732a had some foam baffling under the cover that had dry rotted. There was a 
lot of leakage to ground. 
I can't remember if the foam was on the older or newer versions of the 732a.

The cal light comes on with a short wire stuck in the hole and connected to a 
LO output terminal. I don't know, but maybe the battery charge led has to be 
off.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 23, 2014, at 1:16, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I hope someone can help with a strange anomaly on either my 3458A or the
 732A.  The 732A 10V output as measured on my 3458A seems relatively stable
 over time (it bounces around about +/-1 uV but is it the 732 or the 3458?).
 However, the 1.000 VDC output drifts downward at a rate around 1-2 uV per
 second as soon as I plug the 3458A into the 732 output. If I remove the
 3458A and connect it back up after a few 10s of seconds, the reading goes
 back to what it started at and then drifts downward again.  The 1.018V
 output also drifts downward but at a much slower rate and not as much.  Now
 the question is: is it the 732 or the 3458A?  I tried to see it on my
 Agilent 34401A DMM but it really doesn't have the resolution, but I do seem
 to see it on the 1.000VDC output.  If it is the 732A, what would cause it
 to drift downward like that?  Since the 3458A has an input impedance of
 10Gohm on the 1 and 10 V ranges, I wouldn't think the 732 would even see
 the difference of whether the 3458A is connected of not, but it clearly
 makes a difference as to how long its connected and how long it's been
 disconnected.
 
 Any one have any conjectures?
 
 Also, what will turn on the In Cal light?  What does it mean if it
 doesn't come on?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Randy
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732A drift

[Todd Micallef]

The output impedance of both the 1v outputs is ~1k ohm. I wonder if Randy could 
check the 3458a input impedance with a 10M ohm resistor and the 10v output of 
the 732a. 

I was thinking that the 732a needed a minimum battery voltage to allow the in 
cal led to turn on with the short to the Lo terminal. I guess I could try it on 
one of mine that is waiting for repair.


Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 23, 2014, at 6:42, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote:
 
 Randy,
 
 The 'IN CAL' LED is turned on as Todd describes.  It goes off if power to
 the unit is lost and, thus, calibration is lost.  It is not related to the
 battery charge LED.
 
 As I understand it, the units are designed to powered on 24/7/365 and are
 'IN CAL' once they are powered up, stable (weeks, months?), and have been
 calibrated by your reference lab.  Once power is lost, meaning lost AC and
 batteries depleted, the 'IN CAL' light goes out and outputs are thereafter
 unreliable.
 
 Once you decide to get the 732A calibrated, you will need to find a way to
 ship it to the reference lab and get it shipped back while continuously
 powered, connecting an external battery pack to the connector on the back of
 the battery pack.  The internal battery pack is likely to last only a few
 hours.
 
 There are at least two types of connectors for an external battery, two 5
 way binding posts and a Hypertronics connector which is a small black
 connector about 'dime' sized.  I can find the part number for the mating
 connector if you need it.
 
 I think the +/- 1 uV drift with the 10 V output and the 3458A are within
 specs for both the 732A and 3458A.
 
 Not sure what to think about the drift on the other readings unless there is
 some sort of 'dirt' on the 1 V and 1.018 V binding posts and/or ground.
 
 Good luck.
 
 Joe
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
 Behalf Of Todd Micallef
 Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2014 4:13 AM
 To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
 Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 732A drift
 
 Randy,
 
 I looked at the 3458a input impedance, and it is difficult to get the meter
 set to the FixedZ (10M) mode. However, the 100v range is 10M. It should
 default to HiZ on reset.
 
 I forgot to mention to check the outputs and guard resistance to ground. One
 of my 732a had some foam baffling under the cover that had dry rotted. There
 was a lot of leakage to ground. 
 I can't remember if the foam was on the older or newer versions of the 732a.
 
 The cal light comes on with a short wire stuck in the hole and connected to
 a LO output terminal. I don't know, but maybe the battery charge led has to
 be off.
 
 Todd
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Aug 23, 2014, at 1:16, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I hope someone can help with a strange anomaly on either my 3458A or 
 the 732A.  The 732A 10V output as measured on my 3458A seems 
 relatively stable over time (it bounces around about +/-1 uV but is it the
 732 or the 3458?).
 However, the 1.000 VDC output drifts downward at a rate around 1-2 uV 
 per second as soon as I plug the 3458A into the 732 output. If I 
 remove the 3458A and connect it back up after a few 10s of seconds, 
 the reading goes back to what it started at and then drifts downward 
 again.  The 1.018V output also drifts downward but at a much slower 
 rate and not as much.  Now the question is: is it the 732 or the 
 3458A?  I tried to see it on my Agilent 34401A DMM but it really 
 doesn't have the resolution, but I do seem to see it on the 1.000VDC 
 output.  If it is the 732A, what would cause it to drift downward like 
 that?  Since the 3458A has an input impedance of
 10Gohm on the 1 and 10 V ranges, I wouldn't think the 732 would even 
 see
 the difference of whether the 3458A is connected of not, but it 
 clearly makes a difference as to how long its connected and how long 
 it's been disconnected.
 
 Any one have any conjectures?
 
 Also, what will turn on the In Cal light?  What does it mean if it 
 doesn't come on?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Randy
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732A drift

[Todd Micallef]

Never mind. I tested it myself. You should be able to get the in cal led
working without batteries.

Todd


On Sat, Aug 23, 2014 at 7:20 AM, Todd Micallef tmical...@gmail.com wrote:

 The output impedance of both the 1v outputs is ~1k ohm. I wonder if Randy
 could check the 3458a input impedance with a 10M ohm resistor and the 10v
 output of the 732a.

 I was thinking that the 732a needed a minimum battery voltage to allow the
 in cal led to turn on with the short to the Lo terminal. I guess I could
 try it on one of mine that is waiting for repair.


 Todd

 Sent from my iPad

  On Aug 23, 2014, at 6:42, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote:
 
  Randy,
 
  The 'IN CAL' LED is turned on as Todd describes.  It goes off if power to
  the unit is lost and, thus, calibration is lost.  It is not related to
 the
  battery charge LED.
 
  As I understand it, the units are designed to powered on 24/7/365 and are
  'IN CAL' once they are powered up, stable (weeks, months?), and have been
  calibrated by your reference lab.  Once power is lost, meaning lost AC
 and
  batteries depleted, the 'IN CAL' light goes out and outputs are
 thereafter
  unreliable.
 
  Once you decide to get the 732A calibrated, you will need to find a way
 to
  ship it to the reference lab and get it shipped back while continuously
  powered, connecting an external battery pack to the connector on the
 back of
  the battery pack.  The internal battery pack is likely to last only a few
  hours.
 
  There are at least two types of connectors for an external battery, two 5
  way binding posts and a Hypertronics connector which is a small black
  connector about 'dime' sized.  I can find the part number for the mating
  connector if you need it.
 
  I think the +/- 1 uV drift with the 10 V output and the 3458A are within
  specs for both the 732A and 3458A.
 
  Not sure what to think about the drift on the other readings unless
 there is
  some sort of 'dirt' on the 1 V and 1.018 V binding posts and/or ground.
 
  Good luck.
 
  Joe
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
  Behalf Of Todd Micallef
  Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2014 4:13 AM
  To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
  Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 732A drift
 
  Randy,
 
  I looked at the 3458a input impedance, and it is difficult to get the
 meter
  set to the FixedZ (10M) mode. However, the 100v range is 10M. It should
  default to HiZ on reset.
 
  I forgot to mention to check the outputs and guard resistance to ground.
 One
  of my 732a had some foam baffling under the cover that had dry rotted.
 There
  was a lot of leakage to ground.
  I can't remember if the foam was on the older or newer versions of the
 732a.
 
  The cal light comes on with a short wire stuck in the hole and connected
 to
  a LO output terminal. I don't know, but maybe the battery charge led has
 to
  be off.
 
  Todd
 
  Sent from my iPad
 
  On Aug 23, 2014, at 1:16, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I hope someone can help with a strange anomaly on either my 3458A or
  the 732A.  The 732A 10V output as measured on my 3458A seems
  relatively stable over time (it bounces around about +/-1 uV but is it
 the
  732 or the 3458?).
  However, the 1.000 VDC output drifts downward at a rate around 1-2 uV
  per second as soon as I plug the 3458A into the 732 output. If I
  remove the 3458A and connect it back up after a few 10s of seconds,
  the reading goes back to what it started at and then drifts downward
  again.  The 1.018V output also drifts downward but at a much slower
  rate and not as much.  Now the question is: is it the 732 or the
  3458A?  I tried to see it on my Agilent 34401A DMM but it really
  doesn't have the resolution, but I do seem to see it on the 1.000VDC
  output.  If it is the 732A, what would cause it to drift downward like
  that?  Since the 3458A has an input impedance of
  10Gohm on the 1 and 10 V ranges, I wouldn't think the 732 would even
  see
  the difference of whether the 3458A is connected of not, but it
  clearly makes a difference as to how long its connected and how long
  it's been disconnected.
 
  Any one have any conjectures?
 
  Also, what will turn on the In Cal light?  What does it mean if it
  doesn't come on?
 
  Thanks,
 
  Randy
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Re: [volt-nuts] HP 3458A Mem test 1 hight. How do you read 32K memory chips?

[Todd Micallef]

John,

Don't forget to measure your 5V power supply output. I doubt you are having
a problem with it but the NVRAM write is disabled below a certain voltage
(~4.25v)

Todd


On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 6:50 PM, acb...@gmx.de wrote:

 the easy way to read nvram through usb is a usb-programmer that has your
 ram in its list of supported devices:-)

 this will not solve your problem though. if you reboot the unit after the
 first error messsage, amd the problem still exists, it is probably not with
 the nvram. then it could be things like bus drive, chip select logic...
 ne way to avoid spending 3k is to bus the cpu board, this is cheaper.



  Gesendet: Mittwoch, 20. August 2014 um 22:37 Uhr
  Von: John Phillips john.philli...@gmail.com
  An: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
  Betreff: Re: [volt-nuts] HP 3458A Mem test 1 hight. How do you read 32K
 memory chips?
 
  Yes they are DEI220Y-150 and DSI230Y-150
  On Aug 20, 2014 4:09 PM, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote:
 
   John,
  
   Which chips are these?  Dallas NVRAM's?
  
   Do you have a part number?  They can probably be read and programmed
 with
   the appropriate chip programmer.
  
   Joe
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com]
 On
   Behalf Of John Phillips
   Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 3:54 PM
   To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
   Subject: [volt-nuts] HP 3458A Mem test 1 hight. How do you read 32K
 memory
   chips?
  
   Hi,
   I have removed my 32k memory chips form my 3458A. Doe anyone have an
 easy
   way to connect them to a windows computer. USB would be my preferred
   connection to a 28 and 24  pin socket. I would like to be able to read
 and
   write to the chips to validate the data.
   I have replace the chips and still get Mem test 1 High on start up.
   ​I really do not want to spend close to $3000 for KeySight to fix
 this.​
  
   --
  
   *John Phillips*
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Re: [volt-nuts] HP 3458A Mem test 1 hight. How do you read 32K memory chips?

[Todd Micallef]

John,

Look for the TL866A. You can get it with/without adapters. It seems to be a
decent programmer. There was a review done on EEVBlog for a similar model
without the ICSP port. The support list includes the 3458A NVRAM.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-411-minipro-tl866-universal-programmer-review/

I use this one ...
http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4282
It works fine with the 3458A NVRAM, but you can probably save some $$ going
with a less expensive model.

Todd


On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 7:43 PM, John Phillips john.philli...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Thanks...
 I have been looking at the

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-EEPROM-Flash-SPI-BIOS-24-25-BR90-93-USB-Programmer-6000-CHIPS-SP8-B-/371031966902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item56633a84b6

 Do you think that would do the chips?


 On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 4:25 PM, Todd Micallef tmical...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  John,
 
  Don't forget to measure your 5V power supply output. I doubt you are
 having
  a problem with it but the NVRAM write is disabled below a certain voltage
  (~4.25v)
 
  Todd
 
 
  On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 6:50 PM, acb...@gmx.de wrote:
 
   the easy way to read nvram through usb is a usb-programmer that has
 your
   ram in its list of supported devices:-)
  
   this will not solve your problem though. if you reboot the unit after
 the
   first error messsage, amd the problem still exists, it is probably not
  with
   the nvram. then it could be things like bus drive, chip select logic...
   ne way to avoid spending 3k is to bus the cpu board, this is cheaper.
  
  
  
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 20. August 2014 um 22:37 Uhr
Von: John Phillips john.philli...@gmail.com
An: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Betreff: Re: [volt-nuts] HP 3458A Mem test 1 hight. How do you read
 32K
   memory chips?
   
Yes they are DEI220Y-150 and DSI230Y-150
On Aug 20, 2014 4:09 PM, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote:
   
 John,

 Which chips are these?  Dallas NVRAM's?

 Do you have a part number?  They can probably be read and
 programmed
   with
 the appropriate chip programmer.

 Joe


 -Original Message-
 From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:
 volt-nuts-boun...@febo.com]
   On
 Behalf Of John Phillips
 Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 3:54 PM
 To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
 Subject: [volt-nuts] HP 3458A Mem test 1 hight. How do you read 32K
   memory
 chips?

 Hi,
 I have removed my 32k memory chips form my 3458A. Doe anyone have
 an
   easy
 way to connect them to a windows computer. USB would be my
 preferred
 connection to a 28 and 24  pin socket. I would like to be able to
  read
   and
 write to the chips to validate the data.
 I have replace the chips and still get Mem test 1 High on start up.
 ​I really do not want to spend close to $3000 for KeySight to fix
   this.​

 --

 *John Phillips*
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 --

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Re: [volt-nuts] What's All This Low Thermal EMF Test Lead Stuff?

[Todd Micallef]

Stan,

I have seen this Fluke book mentioned occasionally. I am not sure if has
the tutorials that you seek. It is advertised as specific to dc/ lf ac.

http://www.amazon.com/Calibration-Philosophy-Practice-Fluke-Corporation/dp/0963865005

Todd


On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 7:35 PM, Stan Katz stan.katz...@gmail.com wrote:

 You are on the money that guarding/shielding are sadly neglected as
 subjects, in their own right. Posts in this group consist primarily of
 reports of guard leakage in member instruments, and repair details.
 Discussion of proper lash ups of cal. instruments to home built devices, or
 even work prototypes, would be very welcome by me. I have read Analog
 Devices AN-347, but a tutorial with problems that the student must complete
 the lash ups for, would give me a better idea if I've grasped the subject
 matter. There are two text books mentioned at the end of AN-347, one by
 Morrison, the other by Ott. Any suggestion as to which to buy? The latest
 texts by these authors are pricey, so that's why I'd like to pick just one.




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Re: [volt-nuts] Fluke 732A themistor reading

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

Two of mine read in the 3.7-3.8K range, another reads in the 4.2K range. It
is a good sign if the reading dropped in a few hours after turn-on. I
believe the lower thermistor readings indicate the older 732A oven. Some
minor changes were made and both manuals are available on Didier's site.
Verify that the 1V and 1.018V outputs are functioning as well as the 10V
obviously. There have been a few sold recently on eBay with one or both of
the 1V outputs reading low or dead.

Todd


On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 2:08 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Can anyone tell me what value to expect for a Fluke 732A thermistor
 reading?  I am looking to get a used 732A and one of the things I was told
 to look for is to measure the thermistor reading after the unit has heated
 up for at least an hour.  I saw in one of the posts that a typical
 reading was 4950 ohms.  One vendor I asked said he measured about 3600 ohms
 after a two hour warmup. I was concerned that this is too low.  What do you
 guys think?

 Thanks,

 Randy
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Re: [volt-nuts] Guildline 9578 / Solartron 7081 SchaffnerReplacement

[Todd Micallef]

Dave,

Thanks for the heads up. I went ahead and verified that all pins matched
the schematic by changing the cam to the four settings and all are as
expected. The new cams have 230vac printed on them and the old one has
220 vac.
I went ahead and installed the old one to prevent any future issues should
this meter end up outside the US someday.

I will plan on getting a connector this week. The front panel input is also
damaged. Kensington Electronics has all the parts in stock.

Todd


When you install the new filter, you may find you also need to move the
 voltage selector cam from the old filter to the new one, as the new units
 seem to have different cams and voltage values thereon.

 Regards,
 David Partridge


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Re: [volt-nuts] RE new 3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

Do you mean that you can select it, but it won't give you a temperature? Or
do you mean that you can't find it in the menu? If you go to the MENU
option, select FULL or something like that. It should enable all the extra
menus.

If you can see it, I believe all you have to do is find it under the menu
and hit Enter. I have tested mine and have never had an issue with getting
a temperature measurement.

Todd


On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 11:48 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Can someone explain to me how to read the internal temperature using the
 front panel  TEMP? command.  I have played around but I am doing something
 wrong.

 thanks,

 Randy


 On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 5:13 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  That worked! Now it reads 000.00030mV.  So far it looks good except for
  the display.
 
  Thanks,
 
  Randy
 
 
  On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 12:54 PM, Bill Gold wpgold3...@att.net wrote:
 
  You need a comma , between the 0 and the 3458.  So blu CCAL
  0,3458 Enter.
 
  See pg. # 64 of the CAL Manual for the syntax.
 
  Bill
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
  To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2014 12:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] RE new 3458A
 
 
   Bill,
  
   You are very helpful and I really appreciate it.
  
   I entered BLUE-C-03458 and I still get the ERR message (106, OUT OF
  RANGE
   -- CAL secured).  That would be consistent with what you are
 saying.  I
   guess its no reason to panic yet.
  
   I'm not sure how to use the SECURE command.   I guess it's time to
 open
  it
   up but I will probably have to get some PosiDrive screwdrivers.
  
   Thanks,
  
   Randy
  
  
   On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Bill Gold wpgold3...@att.net
 wrote:
  
Randy:
   
You are doing a ZERO calibration on the meter rather than a
 ACAL.
  You
have to give it a password after the 0 and then it will do the
 ZERO
calibration.  Usually the password is 3458 and comes from the
  factory
that
way.  But someone could have changed it in the past.  You can do
 this
  from
the front panel menu using the SECURE command.  But there is a
 jumper
inside
the 3458A which disables the request for a password so that you can
 do
  any
CAL or reset the password to what you want.  So everything is
 working
  as
expected.  The jumper is JM600 on the outguard processor board 66505
  or
66515 on the left of the meter inside.  Try 3458 first as most are
  set
  to
this password.  Read the Calibration Manual pg. #8 for how to get
  inside
  of
the meter.  You will need two sizes of a PosiDrive type screwdrivers
  to
accomplish this.  Again in the Cal Manual.
   
Bill
   
- Original Message -
From: Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
 
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2014 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] RE new 3458A
   
   
 Bill,

 I installed the U-short and executed the BLUE-C-0 front panel
  command
  and
I
 get an ERR on the display.  I assume this is not good.  Did I do
  this
 correctly?

 Thanks,

 Randy


 On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 10:49 AM, Bill Gold wpgold3...@att.net
  wrote:

  Randy:
 
  Look at page #23 of the 3458A Calibration Manual.  Make
  yourself
  a
4
  Terminal Short as shown and put it in as shown.
 
  Before I did an ACAL I had around -000.00025 mVDC.  After
  ACAL I
now
  read +000.2 mVDC.  I did the CAL 0 myself so I would
 expect
  that
the
  meter should return to a low value, and it does.  I do get a
  variation
of
  +/- 30 nVDC using 100 PLC and just observing the variations.
 As I
remember
  I have never seen a spec on the ZERO stability over temperature.
 
  If I turn on the MATH function and then do 40 measurements
  with
  100
PLC
  the statistics show:
 
  Low reading-70 nVDC
  Mean reading   -28 nVDC
  High reading+3.5 nVDC
  Total Variation73 nVDC
 
  So that correlates with my visual observation of 60 nVDC.
  After
  an
  hour
  the room had gone up around 1 degree C.  Then I observed
  -000.00023
mVDC.
  After another ACAL the reading was again +000.2 mVDC.  This
particular
  meter has a negative tempco as the room temp goes up.
 
  Obviously do an ACAL before any precision measurements
  requiring
low
  nanovolts.
 
  Go to the Keysight website and go to Technical Support and
  choose
  Parts.  Then enter in the Part Number  03458-66517 which
 is
  the
  replacement 03458-66507 assembly and you will see the
  replacement
part
  number on the right hand side.  Click on that and you will get
 the
  information about 

Re: [volt-nuts] New HP3458A

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I have had two 3458a that had bad front / rear switches. It was easy to 
determine during the calibration of the Cal 0 that failed. A copper short 
across both of the inputs, as per the calibration procedure, showed more than 
.5 ohm in 2-wire mode on the lowest range. The resistance was not stable and 
seemed to settle slowly. The switches were available and not hard to replace 
but probably not something I would attempt with a ROR unit. 

The pixels can have some burn-in, but I don't know if Agilent/Keysight would 
fail a cal for dead pixels. There was no indication that they looked at this 
during the calibration. They use the GPIB port and probably would fail it if 
the display was not readable during self-test. A call to Keysight would 
probably help. I think the displays are in the $700+ range. That reminds me, 
you should check the GPIB port. Mine was not functioning when Agilent received 
the meter, but then it started working when they bench tested it. It almost 
cost me $2700 .

The ACAL ALL passing all tests would be a good sign, but I am not sure if it 
indicates that the SCAL calibrations will pass. Someone else can probably help 
with that potential issue.

The age of the NVRAM is important. Can you determine when they were replaced ?

Todd
Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 14, 2014, at 23:22, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I picked up a used HP3458A today, which I needed for some precision DC
 measurements i need to make. It passes all the self tests and the Auto Cal
 but is there any thing else I can check ( I have a 14 day RR).  It reads a
 10V standard I made within a few tens of ppm, but it's not a 732A but that
 is at least comforting.  It also reads an ESI 10Kohm standard resistor dead
 on.
 
 The only problem is that the display has some faint pixels in some
 locations, with three in the second row for every digit location dead.
 Likely a pixel driver I would think.
 
 I am not too familiar with it yet but I noticed when I push the auto zero
 button, the display has a blinking square until I hit a measurement mode
 button; e.g., DCV, ACV, OHM, etc.  Is this normal?
 
 Regards,
 
 Randy Evans
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Re: [volt-nuts] HP-419 and Fluke 845 Modifications

[Todd Micallef]

Randy,

I am looking forward to your test results. Does your 845 have the separate
board for the chopper amp as mentioned in the change/errata sheet dated
7/93? I have not seen any further documents from online sources that
references this change. I have two AR models and it appears support for it
was dropped long before 1993. It would be interesting to see how many of
the original parts were removed and how this new board was mounted inside
the AB chassis.


Todd


On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
wrote:

 For those interested, I have largely finished the design of the HP-419A
 modifications to replace the current active circuits with a more modern
 chopper amp; e.g., LTC2054.  The LTSpice analysis shows the circuit draws
 0.3 mA at full scale meter readings using a single 6V battery.  I think I
 will use a 6V 225mAH NiCad rechargeable battery (because I have some) that
 should last many many hours on one charge.  I am still working out the
 board layout and unit mods but the circuit is extremely simple and will use
 all the existing range and mode switching circuits.  The circuit should
 also work for the Fluke 845 also.  Keep tuned.

 Randy


 On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Dave M dgmin...@mediacombb.net wrote:

  From: Randy Evans randyevans2...@gmail.com
 
 
  I am looking at modifying my (defective) HP419A and Fluke 845A Null
  meters
  using the LTC2054 zero drift op amp.  I am planning on using a single
  4.2 V
  Lithium Ion battery to power them (no AC input required and may not
  include, TBD).  The LTC2054 has a very low bias current of typically
  1pA at
  room temp and the bias plots vs. temp  show no appreciable increase
  until
  about 50C.  Conceptually, it looks pretty straight forward and, based
  on my
  Fluke 887A modifications, likely will be very stable.
 
  Since this is a very astute group, does anyone have any comments on
  the
  feasibility of this modification before I get too involved?
 
  Regards,
 
  Randy Evans
 
 
 
  Hi Randy.  Good to hear from you again.
  I have modified two 883A models and one 887A model DMMs using your
  details, with great results.  I have a model 845A null meter that is
  working fine right now, but who knows how long that will last.  I would
  surely welcome some research on modifying it with a zero-drift opamp.
  One
  concern that I would have with that mod would be that some mechanism
 would
  need to be added to retain the isolation of the recorder output and guard
  integrity that's afforded by the photo-modulator/demodulator circuit.
  Perhaps some kind of optically-isolated interface might be in order
 
  Some Spice runs on the original circuit would be interesting to see.
 
  Dave M
 
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Re: [volt-nuts] HP3458A calibration memory backup

[Todd Micallef]

Mark,

I am using the STMicroelectronics M48Z12 series in at least one of my
3458A's. I had trouble sourcing one of the two different memory modules
from a reputable seller when I replaced my NVRAM. I purchased a DS1220
previously from Jameco and it died shortly afterward. The datecode on the
Jameco part was several months old and may have been stored improperly.

The only thing I don't like about the STMicro NVRAM is that they use a
three digit datecode. One digit is for the year and two for the week. It
took me a while to track down a document to decipher their labeling system.

Todd




On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 12:20 AM, Mark Sims hol...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I have three HP3458A's and decided it was time to back up the battery
 backed static RAM chips.  I wrote a program to dump the RAM contents over
 the GPIB bus using the undocumented MREAD command as documented by
 Poul-Henning.   I dumped both the 2kB CAL rams and the 32kW auxiliary data
 RAMs (hopefully that data is at the addresses mentioned by Poul-Henning.
 I used a NI GPIB-232CV-A RS232 to GPIB converter as the interface.   All
 seems to have gone well and the CAL data looks reasonable.
 As a check I dumped all the data from each machine three times and
 compared each dump...  each CAL data set matched except for the third
 machine.   On the first two,  the units were powered on for a couple of
 hours while I tweaked with my code.  I dumped the third machine from a cold
 start and one byte was different between each dump.  I waited a couple of
 hours and tried again,  this time the data dumps matched.  It looks like
 that byte may be being updated while the machine warms up...  If you dump
 your machine's data,  it might be a good idea to let it stabilize for a
 couple of hours first.
 The dumps of the 32kW of aux data have several words that change between
 each dump.  It looks like that memory has some uses by the firmware other
 than storing user data, etc.
 I think when the time comes to replace the battery backed memory chips I
 may try Cypress/Ramtron FRAM chips or Simtek STK16C88 AutoStore devices.
 The Simtek chips are available in 28 pin DIP packages that appear to be
 drop-in replacements for the DS1230 chips.  The DS1220 chip would require a
 SO8 packaged part on a carrier board.
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Re: [volt-nuts] Desperately seeking OPTION 10 for Datron 4708

[Todd Micallef]

Chris,

I believe the current and resistance functions are on the same board. My 4700 
is missing one board and it has both missing features.

Todd

Sent from my iPad

 On Jul 16, 2014, at 8:48, Chris caal...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Thank you for the bad news :( I am starting to come to terms with the
 difficulty of finding this option. I have recently discovered that option
 10 from the 4700, 4705, and 4707 would also work. Not sure if this makes it
 any easier.
 
 Also my unit has a sticker on the front indicating ac voltage and current
 only... But lists options 20,30,80,90 on the backside label. Will my unit
 have resistance functionality? I am hearing a lot of conflicting
 information.
 
 Not sure if I am replying to emails correctly. (New to volt nuts)
 On Jul 12, 2014 6:03 PM, Chris caal...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Nobody has access to spare Datron 4708 stuff? I am willing to pay
 international shipping etc... whatever it takes! Thank you
 
 
 On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 2:09 PM, Chris caal...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I am looking to purchase OPTION 10 slide in board for the Datron 4708
 Multifunction Calibrator. If anybody has a parted out unit and can sell me
 just the option 10 board i would appreciate it dearly! Thank you for
 considering!
 
 Chris
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Re: [volt-nuts] AC Voltage Measurement Standards

[Todd Micallef]

Ben,

Do you have the 4921 Current Shunt Adapter option for the 4920? I have not
found any information on it other than what is listed in the 4920 user's
handbook.
It mentions the unit simulates the impedance of a 540B. The guide says that
the instructions are included with the 4921. Do you happen to have a copy
of that document?

The 4920 user's guide is on the KO4BB website.

Thanks,

Todd


On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 5:17 AM, ben b...@veritechmeasurements.com.au
wrote:

 Hello,   For my 5cents worth, I also found Fluke 8506A's to be satisfactory
 - so long as they work. I only have one good remaining unit that does AC
 volts as well as DC.  I like the HP 3458A for AC volts, but always need to
 apply corrections for serious AC volts work.A better solution I now use
 is the Datron 4920 units which are an order of magnitude more accurate than
 the 3458A across their full bandwidth. However, be aware of their input
 impedance and selection of cables - always use short coaxial. The 4920
 impedance is around 100k to 400kohm (mostly frequency dependant) and this
 also varies during its sampling period. Otherwise they are great units, in
 the same ball park as a Fluke 5790 but way cheaper.  For an AC source I
 thoroughly recommend the Datron 4200 or 4700 series, which are also way
 cheaper than the near equivalent Fluke 5700.
 Ben





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Re: [volt-nuts] AC Voltage Measurement Standards

[Todd Micallef]

The remark about calibrating the resistors was merely an example of how I
thought you may have been transferring the calibration of the 10V TVC. My
first thought was that you compared the 10V TVC to the next closest model
at fixed points. The inter-comparison would then continue from that model
to the next value down (or up).
I had a hard time trying to understand how that could be accurate, and the
thought of using a ratio transformer didn't cross my mind. Thanks for the
explanation.

I can see how the costs of calibrating a TVC can be so high. I am guessing
few labs possess the equipment to calibrate them and places like Ballantine
probably use NIST for their cals.

Todd





 as far as your comment re. calibrating a set of resistor cal from one
 calibrated one, whats wrong with it? if you do that with a stable voltage
 and by voltage divider measurement using the linearity of the 3458A, you
 end up with pretty decent accuracies. I cannot comment on the 242, just did
 some quick checks some time ago and my quick assessment then was it is
 worse/not better than the 3458a method.



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Re: [volt-nuts] 732b transformer replacement

[Todd Micallef]

Willy asked me to post this 

I just bought the battery pack on ebay for $700... that was me!

Yes, the transformer and regulator board are OK and I have
them powering the 732b right now!

Can you put this message on volt-nuts for me?

I can't figure out the process..

Thanks!
Willy





On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 2:15 AM, Poul-Henning Kamp p...@phk.freebsd.dk
wrote:

 In message 174201cf8064$ba75c900$2f615b00$@pcsupportsolutions.com,
 John Allen writes:

 Have you considered rewinding the transformer?

 I would start out checking very carefully if the wires have broken
 next to whatever they're soldered onto (lug/wire), one of the most
 common failure modes is a break right next to the solder-lug.

 --
 Poul-Henning Kamp   | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
 p...@freebsd.org | TCP/IP since RFC 956
 FreeBSD committer   | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
 Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732b transformer replacement

[Todd Micallef]

Sorry,

Tom beat me to it, I was having trouble with my jems misspelling.


On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Todd Micallef tmical...@gmail.com wrote:

 Willy,

 Have you contacted Fluke about getting a replacement transformer? I would
 guess it would cost a lot, but one of your other alternatives is to buy the
 external battery pack when it pops up on fleabay. The last one cost about
 $700, but I bought mine for less than that. That would give you the the
 correct part.

 Your other choice is to feed the 12V from the 9pin adapter. You can get
 yourself a lab grade power supply or build your own and use it until you
 decide. The manual states on page 4-13 that you can supply an external
 12-15vdc to power the unit. If you contact Fluke, they could probably give
 you the recommended source settings for the rear jack. You only need to
 worry once you decide to send it in for cal, which could be whenever you
 feel the 732B is stable.

 If you need me to take any measurements from my unit, I will either take
 it apart or dig out the readings I wrote down last year.

 By the way, my 732B-7001 had a problem too. The regulator U500 shorted
 from input to output putting 20+ volts across the battery. The battery
 sizzled and failed. You might want to check that circuit too in case there
 are more hidden jems.

 Good luck these units are nice and easier to tote than a 732A.

 Todd


 On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 5:16 PM, new pit...@williams-net.com wrote:

 My 732b is fine but its transformer bit the dust before I got it.

 Actually, that's probably WHY I got it on fleabay.. its previous
 owner changed the battery and still couldn't get it to charge!
 So it went on fleabay as 'parts/not working'..
 for a price I could afford!

 The primary is cooked. Using a fresh battery powers the standard,
 though, with a solid 9.9 volts on my junk 3458 for two months.

 I just want a transformer for 120V... don't need all the world's
 voltages. Since it probably won't be guarded, I would unplug the
 732 and go on battery to do readouts to avoid powerline crosstalk
 problems.

  The best of all worlds would be to get the exact, correct
 transformer.

 Willy
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Re: [volt-nuts] 732b transformer replacement

[Todd Micallef]

Willy,

Have you contacted Fluke about getting a replacement transformer? I would
guess it would cost a lot, but one of your other alternatives is to buy the
external battery pack when it pops up on fleabay. The last one cost about
$700, but I bought mine for less than that. That would give you the the
correct part.

Your other choice is to feed the 12V from the 9pin adapter. You can get
yourself a lab grade power supply or build your own and use it until you
decide. The manual states on page 4-13 that you can supply an external
12-15vdc to power the unit. If you contact Fluke, they could probably give
you the recommended source settings for the rear jack. You only need to
worry once you decide to send it in for cal, which could be whenever you
feel the 732B is stable.

If you need me to take any measurements from my unit, I will either take it
apart or dig out the readings I wrote down last year.

By the way, my 732B-7001 had a problem too. The regulator U500 shorted from
input to output putting 20+ volts across the battery. The battery sizzled
and failed. You might want to check that circuit too in case there are more
hidden jems.

Good luck these units are nice and easier to tote than a 732A.

Todd


On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 5:16 PM, new pit...@williams-net.com wrote:

 My 732b is fine but its transformer bit the dust before I got it.

 Actually, that's probably WHY I got it on fleabay.. its previous
 owner changed the battery and still couldn't get it to charge!
 So it went on fleabay as 'parts/not working'..
 for a price I could afford!

 The primary is cooked. Using a fresh battery powers the standard,
 though, with a solid 9.9 volts on my junk 3458 for two months.

 I just want a transformer for 120V... don't need all the world's
 voltages. Since it probably won't be guarded, I would unplug the
 732 and go on battery to do readouts to avoid powerline crosstalk
 problems.

  The best of all worlds would be to get the exact, correct transformer.

 Willy
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