Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Ahmet; The old Honda 4 stroke on my 25 used between .6 and .75 gallons per hour. I’ve not had the Tohatsu 9.9 on the boat for long enough to be positive about the fuel consumption, but I’m guess in to be in the .75 gaal/hour range when running about 5 knots. Rick Brass Washington, NC

Re: Stus-List C 25 MARK 1

Thanks Jimmy, That's really neat that you bought one of the first one's off the factory floor. Thanks for the information. I think this little boat is going to be a blast. Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C 25 Fort Pierce FL > On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:17 PM, Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List >

Re: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

Alex We had a 1974 C designed Paceship P23 a number of years ago and went through the same process. I found a used spinnaker from Atlantic Sail Traders I believe quite reasonably. For the mast we purchased a stationary rig from The Binnacle in Halifax

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Mark, Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark, +1 on rebedding the chainplates. I don’t know how they look like on a C 25, but on a 24 they need rebedding every two-three years. However, even though I used 3M 4200 the last time I did it, I would recommend using butyl tape, instead of 4200. One of the best sources is Compass Marine

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Chuck, I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well. I asked the yard to look at it. He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold weather we've been having. Behind my transom there is a

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Also, I'm having the through hulls replaced with proper sea cocks as well.but thanks a lot for the thought though! Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List > wrote: Hi

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark, I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t. My plywood backing plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4 ½” motor mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads. I would say

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks Chuck. Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well. I have a 20" outboard as well. How often do you have trouble with the engine cavitating? Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

The panels over the galley and nav station on this boat would have a curve to them. Were any of the panels on your 38 curved much? If so, how did you work that out with 1/4" plywood? I was thinking that 1/8" would work ok, but that 1/4" might have to be steamed, or slotted on the back, or

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

You get waves in Buzzards Bay that would cavitate an outboard...? Cant be... David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 10:46:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net Mark,I can just

Stus-List C 36 ceiling panels

Hi Steve. My panels on my C & C 36 have been replaced. The originals were 1/8 of an inch plywood(although it looks more like wood paneling type material) covered with a vinyl/ foam pad. I was fortunate to have my existing panels as a template. I used 1/8 plywood and went to a fabric

Re: Stus-List C 36 ceiling panels

I would recommend Masonite (tempered hardboard) for this job. It is available in 1/8 or 1/4 inch thicknesses. Bill Bina On 1/26/2016 12:08 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote: Hi Steve. My panels on my C & C 36 have been replaced. The originals were 1/8 of an inch plywood(although it looks

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks. I've been wondering how using the engine would play out. During our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop. I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not

Re: Stus-List C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

Thanks for all your informative responses.  I have been doing foredeck racing on a Tripp 33 for a few years but just got my C 24 this past fall.  I was mainly trawling for mounting and hardware details but I have a pretty good idea of what is necessary based on the CNC manual.  I don't have the

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark, The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident. All I can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule. Give yourself several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail after dark.I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a

Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

I have 2 panels with a goog amount of curve. When I put them up, I started on the end with the least amount of bend putting screws every 8 inches. (reason for brass screws). I did use 3ply veneer. I didn't pay attention to grain as I was trying for maximum useage of each sheet of

Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I am replacing the original sole on Persistence. It was ¾ inch teak and holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet. Thankfully especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes! I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit mine that way this year. You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats. I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I refinished mine several years ago and also had trouble getting the epoxy to flow. I didn't thin it. Now I know. I think the clear hardener only comes in 1 "speed". For the visible surface, you want the clear. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:51 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Mike, I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36. Some thoughts. I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius. I epoxied both sides, using foam roller. Slow cure west system. Good base. I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Once the chop gets rough, on a C 25 your most practical solution would be to go with the flow and sail. She sails much better than motors, especially with the outboard. It may also be feasible on a choppy sea to somehow put and additional line from the engine, over the pushpit to a cleat or solid

Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

I moved my stations to the toerail when I bought my boat in 2000. I used one existing screw on the toerail and had to drill another one to mount the base. I made sure that they were lined up with an existing hole in the rail so I didn’t have to drill another hole for the screw that holds the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”: http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/ Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > I can't remember

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Mike, For my second time rebuilding my cabin sole I used the new Awlwood product. It needs fewer coats but is a bit more expensive. I like it but it is more for use on exterior wood as it resists UV better. I was planning on using their Satin finish over the gloss undercoats but got tired of

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot. I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment. Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot. The main limit for

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

I have been talking to myself again :) On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Ahmet wrote: > I just bought one last August and love it. > A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974. > What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few >

Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:46 PM, Ahmet wrote: > I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant > on putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail. > I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut > under the deck. >

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Lets get this fun fleet of 25s to The NE Rendevouz this September! Details to follow shortly from Edd and Rob... David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 16:42:46 -0500 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC:

Re: Stus-List Messages

Ahmet – looks like you are subscribed with your gmail account. Stu From: Ahmet via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ahmet Subject: Stus-List Messages Sorry folks, maybe gmail is filtering my own messages, because I don't see them. Is this

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks Ahmet. I've been reading a looking at youtube videos of ways to rig the boat bungee/ thr head sail sheet as an autopilot depending the point of sail. It seems to work very well. I was looking at a tiller pilot too, but of course there's a current draw. Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks a lot Jack. I was thinking of planning an off shore run to Lake Worth one day, and then heading to Miami to avoid the bridges. Is it possible to do an all night sail and knock it out in a day or so? Thanks, Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at 5:13 PM,

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick, Thanks for the info! Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a post hole for the table? I was thinking of doing the same thing. I read that some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved. Thanks for the info and the welcome. Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle"

Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

I’m in the middle of this project too! I took Wally’s advice and am using 1/4” foamed PVC, but in my case, I am not painting it. Wally has reported that it has held up great and if it can stand up to his use.. It is held in place by velcro. I am happy with the result and look so far. I used

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom North Carolina Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List > wrote: > > Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”: > >

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

If the weather is right, it's very doable. Once you reach Delray, the Gulfstream is close, so you need to run in 40 to 100 feet of water to avoid northbound currents.  Be aware, though, that you may end up motorsailing when the winds turn southeast-south, as they often do. But it's much

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I refinished the cabin sole on my 34+ several years ago and used multiple coats of Smith's CPES - Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the top side, followed by about 6 coats of Epifanes two- part polyurethane. I have been very pleased with the result which is a glossy finish. Since I stripped and

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark, The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette that converted into a berth. There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core when you drill the holes

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks. Sounds like a fairly straightforward project. My post is welded to the base. Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit. I like your idea to put a table across the galley. I bought an Origo 3000

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hey Mark,  I have a cousin with the same name from NY.  That wouldn't be you?  Danny Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List Date: 1/26/2016 9:12 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

No Danny. But apparently there's a really good seafood restaurant called McMenamy's Seafood in MA. People are always asking me if we're related so there must be some McMenamy's in the NE. I'm from St Louis MO originally. Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at