I'm giving very serious consideration to a deck wash pump install. I have
a spare thru-hull in the head and room to mount a pump. A length of PEX
would feed a quick disconnect near the stern and one in the anchor locker.
I would install a 3-way valve so that I could shift suction between
Pegasus is #4. Not sure what Patrick's is.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: Dreuge via CnC-List Date: Tue, Aug 16, 2016
19:21To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Dreuge;Subject:Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 -
List of Hull
Thanks for the complement Josh. But no deck wash
on Alera, other than a cloth bucket on a line. Works just fine for me.
Tom B
º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
At 07:33 PM 8/16/2016, you wrote:
http://www.usedboatequipment.com/ads/simpson-lawrence-anchorman-manual-windlass/
Sorry, I called it a Sampson.
I was looking to replace mine with a Muir that comes up for sale on eBay.
When I checked ebay nothing showed so right now mine is not for sale. But
follow the link and one can be yours
Josh,
I can't find info on the Sampson but may be interested. Can you let me
know more about it and how much you might want?
Jessica
1975 C 33
On Tuesday, August 16, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Ron,
>
> Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he
Ron,
Tom Buscaglia has a pretty nice install. IIRC he included a deck wash. I,
on the other hand do not wish to incur the added complications and cost of
an electric windlass. From high current to solenoids to water ingress. So
my solution is a manual windlass. They are kinda hard to find. That
Rick,
I can understand losing the shape advantage with a tri-radial while furled
but double check about a bi-radial. A bi-radial should have nearly the same
shape furled or unfurled but would have the advantage of aligning the
fibers in the direction of stress (diagonally luff to clew) hopefully
John,
I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.
Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.
As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com. It is free and
pretty simple to start off.
-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna
John,
FWIW, I use a software product called MarsEdit on my OS X Mac. I can compose
the blog there, review it and then upload it to Google Blogger. Pretty simple
stuff.
Good luck with the rebuild/refit!
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit
I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
certain extent, based on my priorities.
Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
and results,(and budget).
Understand that
Yes, the 155 will backwind the main a bit more, but the overall effect is still
very positive. I will run the traveler a little higher in light air to
minimize back winding. As the breeze picks up, the bubble isn’t as pronounced.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
When we race, we carry 6 to 10 more people which equates to 2000 lbs of rail
meat.As the vessel heels she wants to luff. To stop the juff, you must
counter with rudder. The more rudder you use the more drag is created. Reef
the sail and she goes faster because she is upright.
When it is
Paul,
I've raced on a C 99 several times. The cockpit is very tight. The jib
trimmers and the mainsheet are all concentrated in one spot. Lots of flying
elbows and opportunities for a black eye. The boat sails well, but I didn't
like the rubbery feel to the helm. It didn't feel connected. I
I’m curious. Why must you reef the main at 12 knots with the 135, while you can
carry the full main and 150 to 15, and full main and 100 to 20?
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday,
I have a 39. When we race I can carry a 150 in 15 knots.
When we started cruise i bought a 135 rolller furl. It was great up to 12
knots then I have to reef the main. I finally gave up and got a 100% for
cruising. Easier to handle and I can keep full sail to 20 knots.
We find that we miss
Josh;
The sailmaker who made my (now retired) 155 called the bubble in the main
forward of the max draft a “speed bump”, said it was no big deal on a headsail
driven boat like my mid-70s 38 mk2, and indicated it as a sign I could probably
point a degree or two higher when going upwind.
The J42 I race on has extra tethers at the bow and mast for double clipping
in. I see how they would work in theory, but in practice I wasn't a fan.
Since I have a double tether (short and long), when at the mast and it's
bumpy I leave my long tether on the jackline and clip my short one to a
Actually, I'm not proposing the cloth or weight. All the headsail quotes
have recommended Challenge High Mass Fiber in 8.88 to 9.1 oz cloth.
For the main they are recommending either the HMF fabric at 8.88 oz or
Challenge High Aspect High Modulus 8.3 oz.
I presume the cloth
Interesting that you should mention furling. I’ve always considered roller
furling to be about the same as roller reefing. But they are not the same thing
to a sailmaker.
I had a follow up discussion with a sailmaker for Ullman this morning and we
discussed how much I might be reefing the
Josh,
I didn't notice a big difference, but the wind was less than 10 knots. I
generally trim the main by looking at the leech. and position of the boom.
Maybe Jake can chime in - it was his sail on my boat for Bermuda.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 12:26 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
Hi david.
Tied off at the pushpit, pulpit and threaded through the ring of a shroud
cleat. So they ran about waist height, which makes clipping in and running the
carabiner ahead or behind you a breeze. Also great if you have more than one
person going up on deck. We'd take them down when
Shameless plug here for Good Old Boat Magazine. Every year, WITHOUT US
ASKING, BEGGING, or GROBBELING, they send us a big box of their latest
issue to hand out free at our Rendezvous.
Without fail, I just received another box! Subscribe to them, they are the
best!
http://cncnortheast.com
David,
When I added a 155 I was shocked at how much boat speed I gained over the
135 in light air. We also had the inboard jib tracks for use with the
155. The inboard tracks made for a very narrow slot, but it was fast if
you paid attention!
Its not you!
Joel
Formerly 35/3
The Office
On Tue,
I have never heard of “high” jacklines. What do you attach them to behind the
mast? Dave
Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:05 AM, Bmue via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Try using high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip
> on,
This is what I encountered in my own research - a lot of differing views, and
these are compounded by the boat’s limitations.
- “stay on deck vs merely attached to the boat”hence the taut jacklines, on
the centerline, stopping a tether length short of either end of the boat. This
Try using high jacklines. Easy to clip into, nothing in your feet to trip on,
and you can grab them as a last resort.
Much preferable to having lines on the deck.
Bettina
> On Aug 16, 2016, at 7:29, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> This is interesting
Having done the Annapolis to Bermuda race, as well as a fair amount of offshore
night work (although nowhere near as much as you, Andrew…), I never had any
issues grabbing a hold of and clipping onto a flat jackline without the twists;
and I would definitely have concerns about the tripping
I'd always kept them flat(ish), too, but I noted in the Bermuda Race
circular they suggested that they be twisted. made sense to me.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine
On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I’ve always kept them flat, though I have heard
Rick — I don’t know if it will help you any, but I’ve posted a photo taken this
past weekend of my new Rolly Tasker 135 genoa on my web server. This was under
light air (maybe 6-8 knots apparent — I don’t have a wind instrument, so I’m
just guessing). It’s a cross cut design, and seems to work
Hello,
I looked a C 99 a number of years ago, probably around 2012. It was very
nice, and is kind of tight down below. I wanted a boat that 4-5 people could
spend 3-4 days aboard and I felt that the 99 was just too small. I ended up
buying a 110 and the extra space below was the big difference.
I’ve always kept them flat, though I have heard the twist suggestion before. I
find that if they are twisted, they become more of a tripping hazard, or, as
you say, they can roll under your feet. I understand the primary roll of the
jacklines is to keep you with the boat, but my primary
I'm surprised it is only a 15% difference! What cloth is he proposing for
the tri radial? I would not go with a cheaper cloth and a tri-radial.
FWIW, The Office had an 8 ounce cross cut. You got a good look at it.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:17 AM, robert via CnC-List
Rick:
If you were getting say, a 150% genoa made from a lighter cloth than
what you are proposing (8.88 and 9.1 oz.), I would definitely spend the
extra money and get a tri-radial.
For a 135% from cloth this weight, I doubt there is much of a
performance difference between the tri-radical
Mark,
I replaced my rudder post thrust bearing bushing with one I made from 1/8"
Ultra-Wear-Resistant PTFE-Filled Delrin Acetal Resin obtained from
McMaster-Carr.
I have photos and some details on my blog post(scroll down):
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/SteerWork
Center of mass ... (dang you Autocorerect!)
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 6:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 99
The best sailing version
Rick, Have you considered that the boat show season is coming up fast and you
will likely be able to score a 15% discount if you wait and order at the boat
show?
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
If the look and function are ok, it would most likely be easier to just shorten
the lifelines.
I shortened the top lifelines on my 27 in order to lower them down a bit at the
bow pulpit and cause less wear on the genoa.
Clamp type fittings that can be slid up and down the tubing made the exact
37 matches
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