Hi Jeremy,
The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine is controlled by the
thermostat. Coolant is approx 50% glycol to reduce the freeze point of the
coolant (-25F or more). When the engine hits the set temp (190F), the
thermostat opens and allows coolant cooled by the heat exc
Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through
the block
when warm enough.
Thanks,
Jeremy
Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
Jeremy;
Someone has probably pointed out in a later post th
Hi John,
I don’t know where they were originally! Likely there were only two 12volts
back in the day maybe one in the hanging locker, and the other on the shelf in
the engine compartment?
I have 2) 6Volt Trogans under the sink, 2 more under the quarter-berth, and one
nice Dyno (group 31) un
Hi Jeremy,
I don't do any specific winterizing on the water sytems.
I'm just across the pond from you in the area I
call Pacific South West (Canada)... I would call
Alaska the real PNW. But then again marketing is
not something anywhere near my realm of
expertise. However, keeping a boat in
Thanks for making that comment. Having lived in Portland for a while, my
impression is that the winters in Portland and Seattle are about like it is
here in North Carolina. And I thought Vancouver could not be significantly
worse. Winterizing for the Northeast US and most of Canada is a whole di
Jeremy;
Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer
never sees the inside of your engine block.
If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model
numb
Expresso had a start and house battery under the quarter berth when I got
her. They were not in battery boxes and when I added battery boxes they
didn't fit well. I left the start battery there and built two large
battery enclosures on either side of the prop shaft for 4 large house
batteries. T
Hi John,
I put 4 6v Trojans under the aft part of the dinette seat. It just fits. Works
like a charm. The PO put some batteries in the quarter birth and they rotted
out the bottom of the locker. What a mess! The starter battery is located in
the stbd lazerette for now.
Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’7
I have a C&C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were
originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't
really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
So where should they go?
Thanks,
John
___
This li
don't forget foot pump at the galley sink if you have one.. winterizing the
pressure water system won't get to it.
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
wrote:
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which
rarely happ
In Canada you can try these guys, not sure of window prices - haven't needed
that yet.
http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-12-13 3:05 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List wrote:
Sailrite is a great source, however if you are in Canada , the shipping is
Thanks to all for the feedback on freeze proofing.
Patrick - I also run a heater and an Ecoseb desiccant dehumidifier (which
is awesome!). Last year I didn't do anything with antifreeze, just the
heaters, and everything was alright. This year the freeze is a lot colder
though. I do worry about
+1
Essentially my program, so far has been fine, (knock on wood) here on the east
side of the Cascades in the Columbia Gorge. Water the boat sits in acts as a
big heat sink. Air temps in the twenties (F) are common for days, the marina
ice has frozen over a couple of years enough to walk
Perhaps I missed a part, but is there like a Bowman heat exchanger involved?
Does the engine carry its own coolant. If so it is imperative to check coolant
quantity and degree protection. IMHO
Colin
S/V Lindsey Layne
71 C&C 40C #3
On the hard Western Lake Erie
Sent from my iPhone
__
That little plug was plastic in my case, was thinking I'd replace it with a
stainless one in spring. Maybe a ball valve
I will make sure to flush the tanks well in spring, and thanks for the heads up.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 33 MkII
Lake Huron
Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/
Jeremy,
You never get that cold in Vancouver. We hit regularly –25 C - -30 C, at least
for part of the winter. But I would not sleep at night if I used only 5 l of AF
in the engine. Purists take a sample out of the exhaust and check it with
refractometer. I did it once and I know that after a f
If I may, two comments:
- be careful about that plug in the muffler. I heard that they don’t seal well
once removed
- be careful with pink AF in the water heater. Supposedly it gels once heated.
So make sure that you drain it all before you run the engine.
Marek
From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-
This year I found a plug in the bottom front of the muffler, drained that and
the strainer before I pumped antifreeze (Rv) through, thought was that the
antifreeze would be less diluted and it would require less fluid. It took one
and a half jugs to get pink stuff in the pail out back. I use the
My marina requires you to either have an ice-eater or rent one for $200 from
them. My $500+ dollar ice-eater finally died after many years, so I am trying a
new strategy - pond pumps. I got 2 of them, 1000 GPH each, off Amazon for $120
total. I am going to hang one under the bow and one under th
I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus
visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter
projects. And sailing about 1x/month.
Vancouver is a little colder, but it's the
When I had a RWC engine I ran the exhaust into the bucket and circulated the
same antifreeze around and around until it got nice and hot.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 14:21
To: cnc-list@c
We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it
through the system. Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I
think). I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the
block. I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes
that
Sailrite is a great source, however if you are in Canada , the shipping is
crazy expensive compared to value of material (otherwise Sailrite would have
tons more of my money I tell ya !)
Tim Sippel
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN
via CnC-List
Sen
Sounds like what I do to winterize around here… btw, the temp is all the way up
to +7F right now… :^(
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On Dec 13, 2016, at 12:17 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Here in the Pacific
I think you got it. The only additional thought is that if you can use regular
antifreeze in any of the the listed applications (obviously not in the potable
water system) without harming the environment, it is reportedly better for your
pumps to do so. Sounds like you’re still in the water, s
Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or
muffler. As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!
Joel
On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Jeremy,
>
> we do winterising every fall
>
> - run AF th
Jeremy,
we do winterising every fall
- run AF through the engine. There are many options, I use a bucket in the
cockpit and a long hose that I attach to the fresh water hose taken off the
cooling water seacock (after the seacock is closed). You will probably need
about 15 l (3 jugs) as a m
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
which rarely happens. Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
Here is what I did last week to prep:
1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to wa
Sailrite has many types and gauges
http://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=windows
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where yo
I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I
guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out there
Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta there
.
If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics
Ti
Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a
cool day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger
window. Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness,
and assume strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources,
lo
We pulled the Martec on Persistence last month. Initially it would not budge.
Then my go to guy Peter came by with a puller and a lot of experience.
The first thing he said to do was to loosen the nut and back it off. I believe
approx. ¼ inch. This will prevent prop from falling off. Then w
A word of caution when pulling a prop...be careful when it comes
free that it doesn't simply drop to a surface (asphalt, rocks,etc) that
will damage/dent a blade on the prop.
Did that with mine the last time it was taken off.when the prop
puller finally did its job, the prop flew off a
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