Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.

It’s a mystery at this point.
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Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Dave via CnC-List]

I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse thing 
as well as the low rpm banging only.  
The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical surface on 
each each end that mates with one mating female cone for forward,  and the 
other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the conical clutch sits 
between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a lot more, therefore it 
glazes first.  
As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust pushes 
forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so via the 
trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the banging 
stops.
Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you will 
think the strut will be sheared off the hull.  
Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not 
rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets, just 
silicone.  
I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts and was 
very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the transmission.  
Worked perfectly.  
Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.


Dave.

Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
From: Andrew Means 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Boat: 1977 C 34
Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop

Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it almost 
feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like a piece of 
kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400 or so the 
roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.

Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The web site is up and running (Mon, 21:00 EDT).

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2016 20:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

 

Well - I was in the store on Saturday so the business is still a going
concern...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-05-09 9:20 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

I normally just go to the store ... several times per day.  I think website
would be cheaper. Especially if down
 
If there is a problem I know Eric who runs the web side of business. Let me
know and I can stop in and inform them
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] on behalf of jhnelson via CnC-List
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ]
Sent: May 9, 2016 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: jhnelson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website
 
Just you I was on it a bunch today
 
 
 
Sent from my Samsung device
 
 
 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List  

Date: 2016-05-09 8:31 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Peter Fell   
Subject: Stus-List Binnacle website
 
Is is just me or is Binnacle's Canadian website down ... like for the last
week or so?
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII
 
___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
 
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Well - I was in the store on Saturday so the business is still a going 
concern...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-05-09 9:20 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

I normally just go to the store ... several times per day.  I think website 
would be cheaper. Especially if down

If there is a problem I know Eric who runs the web side of business. Let me 
know and I can stop in and inform them

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of jhnelson via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: May 9, 2016 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jhnelson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

Just you I was on it a bunch today



Sent from my Samsung device


 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List 
Date: 2016-05-09 8:31 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Stus-List Binnacle website

Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week 
or so?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I normally just go to the store ... several times per day.  I think website 
would be cheaper. Especially if down

If there is a problem I know Eric who runs the web side of business. Let me 
know and I can stop in and inform them

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of jhnelson via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: May 9, 2016 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jhnelson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

Just you I was on it a bunch today



Sent from my Samsung device


 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List 
Date: 2016-05-09 8:31 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Stus-List Binnacle website

Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week 
or so?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Just you I was on it a bunch today


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-09  8:31 PM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Peter Fell  
Subject: Stus-List Binnacle website 




Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last 
week or so?
 
Peter 
Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII___

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I just tried them, they both work fine for me.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-09-16 20:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

 

Chandlery online as well.

 

From: Peter Fell   

Sent: Monday, May 09, 2016 4:31 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Binnacle website

 

Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week 
or so?

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4568/12200 - Release Date: 05/09/16

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Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Chandlery online as well.

From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2016 4:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Binnacle website

Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week 
or so?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII___

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Stus-List Binnacle website

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week 
or so?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII___

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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I have used the following technique on many different boats without using a 
Loos gage. First, I check that the mast is straight athwartship (sideways) and 
that I have the desired rake which is different for each boat.  I tighten the 
turnbuckles on the fore and aft stays first.  I check the tension by pulling on 
them at about chest height.  The stays should move no more than about one inch. 
 The same applies to the upper shrouds.  On boats that have only one lower, I 
tighten them until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches.  On boats that have two 
lowers, I tighten the forward lowers until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches.  On 
the aft lowers I use about 2 inches.
The next step is to check the tension out under sail.  First I make sure that 
the mast is straight.  This will tell me if the lower shrouds are correct.  
There may be some slop on the downwind side depending on the wind speed.
Adjusting rake is another procedure depending on the weather helm of the boat.
Frank 

On Monday, May 9, 2016 1:22 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Chris,
I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process is as 
follows.
With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have approximately 9 
inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main halyard. Forestay first, 
then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the upper shrouds to hand tight 
and using the main halyard on the toe rails to align the masthead. I then add 
two turns to the turnbuckles. Check masthead alignment again. 
Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to ensure 
straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast. 
Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on beem reach, 
look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play tightening the 
leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of turns. Tack boat. Tighten 
leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as previous tack. 
And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments. You'll 
want the slop out of the leeward shrouds. 
Sounds like a long process but it really isn't. 
Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And even with a 
Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments. 

Bob Caughran
Beemer, 29MKII, 309


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension are
> needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Find someone who has done this before - if the boat is in the water and has
been used but you suspect it wasn't done right, borrow a person with a Loos
Gauge, which is used to check the tension on the wires. There are
instructions on the gauge. My boat is bigger than yours, so my tensions are
likely to be higher and my wire sizes are larger, but I use 1100 pounds for
the upper shrouds (wires going to the top of the mast), 700 for the lower
ones and 1500 for the back stay. I hope someone has the proper numbers for
your boat - I would guess they are no more than 3/4 of what mine are. The
gauge has a table on the back which has readings for each wire size. 

If the boat has just been launched for you, then you have to start from the
beginning - and I would do a search on 'setting shroud tensions on a
sailboat' to get the basics (things like how to assure the mast is vertical
- side to side - and how much it should be leaning back from the vertical -
in the boat) and hope you can find the appropriate measurements for your
boat.

If all of this is Greek to you, I would suggest finding a person with
rigging experience to get you on the right track. It isn't rocket science,
but is important for your safety. If the boat was set up by a boat yard
before launching, then maybe the club members are just dazzling you with
their 'superior sailing' knowledge.and you can defer this discussion for
a while.

Gary Nylander
30-1
Maryland

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 9, 2016 3:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: chul...@ksturnpike.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension


Thank you for the reply , but that is to technical for me . I have only had
one sailing lesson , so I do not know much about  sailing or rigging . The
people at the sail club I joined said the lines have a certain tension and
since my boat is a 1975 I do not have any info for how much tension. I would
like to set it by a gauge for now.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 1:22 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> Chris,
> I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process 
> is
as follows.
> With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have
approximately 9 inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main
halyard. Forestay first, then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the
upper shrouds to hand tight and using the main halyard on the toe rails to
align the masthead. I then add two turns to the turnbuckles. Check masthead
alignment again.
> Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to
ensure straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast.
> Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on 
> beem
reach, look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play
tightening the leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of turns.
Tack boat. Tighten leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as previous tack.
> And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments.
You'll want the slop out of the leeward shrouds.
> Sounds like a long process but it really isn't.
> Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And 
> even
with a Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments.
>
> Bob Caughran
> Beemer, 29MKII, 309
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List 
> > 
wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension
are
> > needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
you
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Raymarine autopilot for sale

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Anyone want to buy my old autopilot?  

 

. Raymarine smart pilot x30 - good for boats <= 33,000 lbs 

. ST6002 display

. smart talk converter e221581104455

. Raymarine wired auto helm remote 

. $900 total w/10% to Stu's List

Only thing you need to buy is the ram.

 

Full disclosure:  I was having problems with unit last fall.  I sent the
SPX-30 controller into Raymarine and it tested out ok, so I suspect it was
the ram tripping out.  I replaced everything this winter and was never able
to determine the exact fault.

 

Capacity wise this unit is bigger than the current Evo-200 unit (24,000 lb
vessel and $2000 retail).  I oversized the unit for my boat to compensate
for any aggressive marketing on Raymarine's part and to have a little factor
of safety.  

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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Good advice...except my arms are more like the late Rowdy Roddy Piper and
it still took me 3 days of disassembly and reassembly.  You definitely
become more intimate with your drive train and engine compartment.  I think
I could pull it now while underway.  Lol.

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On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 4:14 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> YES
>
> This is caused by slippage inside the transmission - a bronze cone mates
> against an iron anti-cone ...I guess, and the surfaces become glazed
> and slip.   bang bang bang  like a broken prop.
>
> These are the exact symptoms I experienced and only after spending a great
> deal of money on mounts (needed) a new prop, (needed) cutlass bearing
> (needed) and shaft (probably not needed) did I figure out the real
> problem.
> Sick of shovelling cash around, and with the boat in the water, I  took
> the gearbox out myself (2 hrs or less, in a 33-2) stripped it, lapped the
> internal bronze cones against their mating surfaces, and reassembled.   Was
> back in action in 24 hours at a cost of around $40.   Helps to have a
> physique and arms like Gollum.
>
> Good chance to clean some of the surfaces where cables ground to the
> engine.
>
> do not delay fixing this, it will get progressively worse, occur more
> frequently., then will really start to slam, and could be uncooperative
> when you need it most.
>
>
> Dave
>
> Windstar, 33-2, Whitby ON.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 9 May 2016 09:14:46 -0700
> From: Andrew Means <andrew.cnc...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
> Message-ID: <etPan.5730b779.5f34a65d.13b@worsley.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ugh - that sounds expensive. I?ll see about holding the lever down, maybe
> it just needs tensioning??
>
> --?
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>
> I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the
> transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and
> eventually discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before
> having a mechanic aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission.
> All better now since having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help
> as well.?
>
> Derek McLeod?
> Aileron, 1983 29MK2
> Toronto, ON
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
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> >
>
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>


-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C Landfall 38
"Nina"
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

YES

This is caused by slippage inside the transmission - a bronze cone mates
against an iron anti-cone ...I guess, and the surfaces become glazed
and slip.   bang bang bang  like a broken prop.

These are the exact symptoms I experienced and only after spending a great
deal of money on mounts (needed) a new prop, (needed) cutlass bearing
(needed) and shaft (probably not needed) did I figure out the real
problem.
Sick of shovelling cash around, and with the boat in the water, I  took the
gearbox out myself (2 hrs or less, in a 33-2) stripped it, lapped the
internal bronze cones against their mating surfaces, and reassembled.   Was
back in action in 24 hours at a cost of around $40.   Helps to have a
physique and arms like Gollum.

Good chance to clean some of the surfaces where cables ground to the engine.

do not delay fixing this, it will get progressively worse, occur more
frequently., then will really start to slam, and could be uncooperative
when you need it most.


Dave

Windstar, 33-2, Whitby ON.










Message: 5
Date: Mon, 9 May 2016 09:14:46 -0700
From: Andrew Means <andrew.cnc...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
Message-ID: <etPan.5730b779.5f34a65d.13b@worsley.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ugh - that sounds expensive. I?ll see about holding the lever down, maybe
it just needs tensioning??

--?
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the
transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and
eventually discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before
having a mechanic aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission.
All better now since having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help
as well.?

Derek McLeod?
Aileron, 1983 29MK2
Toronto, ON
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Sounds like it could be a transmission issue. Especially since you only
hear it in forward and not reverse.  Not sure of your engine/Trans
placement, but in my Landfall 38, I have a vdrive, so the trans is right
there behind the steps and access panel. If there's a plate or cover,
remove it and you maybe able to diagnose it visually. The forward may just
need adjusting...  if you have a Paragon sa0 or sa1, email me directly and
I maybe able to help.  I just finished pulling, fixing, and reinstalling
mine and saved a couple $k at least...

brianwdavis...@gmail.com

Brian
1980 Landfall 38
"Nina"
On May 9, 2016 12:15 PM, "Andrew Means via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ugh - that sounds expensive. I’ll see about holding the lever down, maybe
> it just needs tensioning…
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>
> I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the
> transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and
> eventually discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before
> having a mechanic aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission.
> All better now since having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help
> as well.
>
> Derek McLeod
> Aileron, 1983 29MK2
> Toronto, ON
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Chris via CnC-List]

Thank you for the reply , but that is to technical for me . I have only had
one sailing lesson , so I do not know much about  sailing or rigging . The
people at the sail club I joined said the lines have a certain tension and
since my boat is a 1975 I do not have any info for how much tension. I
would like to set it by a gauge for now.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 1:22 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> Chris,
> I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process is
as follows.
> With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have
approximately 9 inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main
halyard. Forestay first, then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the
upper shrouds to hand tight and using the main halyard on the toe rails to
align the masthead. I then add two turns to the turnbuckles. Check masthead
alignment again.
> Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to
ensure straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast.
> Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on beem
reach, look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play
tightening the leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of turns.
Tack boat. Tighten leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as previous
tack.
> And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments.
You'll want the slop out of the leeward shrouds.
> Sounds like a long process but it really isn't.
> Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And even
with a Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments.
>
> Bob Caughran
> Beemer, 29MKII, 309
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List 
wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension
are
> > needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
you
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Bob Caughran via CnC-List]

Chris,
I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process is as 
follows.
With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have approximately 9 
inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main halyard. Forestay first, 
then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the upper shrouds to hand tight 
and using the main halyard on the toe rails to align the masthead. I then add 
two turns to the turnbuckles. Check masthead alignment again. 
Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to ensure 
straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast. 
Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on beem reach, 
look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play tightening the 
leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of turns. Tack boat. Tighten 
leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as previous tack. 
And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments. You'll 
want the slop out of the leeward shrouds. 
Sounds like a long process but it really isn't. 
Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And even with a 
Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments. 

Bob Caughran
Beemer, 29MKII, 309


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension are
> needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If this is what you mean:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/batteries-accessories/battery-maintenance-tools/battery-terminals/motomaster-marine-battery-terminal-0113508p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice_medium=SearchVoice_source=RatingsAndReviews_content=Default

I need the opposite. I haven't found it on their site and won't have a
chance to check a store for a few days yet.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 12:01 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you
> are looking for.
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Ugh - that sounds expensive. I’ll see about holding the lever down, maybe it 
just needs tensioning… 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On May 9, 2016 at 9:12:16 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
wrote:

I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the 
transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and eventually 
discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before having a mechanic 
aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission. All better now since 
having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help as well. 

Derek McLeod 
Aileron, 1983 29MK2
Toronto, ON
___  

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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Have you also watched the engine mounts while in low rpm to see if it's
just excess vibration making the noise?

If you want to check the prop for snags without going for a cold water
swim, a GoPro on an extension stick works well. I've used this method
before to check the zincs.

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA

On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:

> From: Andrew Means 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
> Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
> *Boat*: 1977 C 34
> *Engine*: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
> *Prop*: 3 Blade Max Prop
>
> Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it
> almost feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like
> a piece of kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400
> or so the roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.
>
> Additional info:
>
> + Looking at the propshaft and listening for knocks coming from the engine
> doesn’t reveal anything obvious.
> + We ran aground recently, but just the keel in soft sand. Bottom was
> painted between now and then and yard didn’t report anything amiss.
> + In reverse at the same RPMs everything feels pretty smooth.
>
> I’m waiting for the next 80° day to dive under the boat and see what I can
> see, but was wondering if that’s even where I should be looking. Does this
> sound familiar to anybody else?
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you are 
looking for.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List  
Date: 2016-05-08  10:58 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Paul Fountain  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts 


Steve,



I'd check Canadian Tire, they have a selection of terminals many that don't 
require swaging. May have a post conversion too



Sent from Outlook Mobile









On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:34 AM -0700, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
 wrote:





Hi All,



I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. I 
didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and now that they're 
on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work with these batteries. 
I had made considerations
 about size, space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the 
posts. (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so)



Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg





1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!



I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I need 
it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is entirely in 
the realm of possibility.



I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove the 
cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed through the 
boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open.



Thanks,



Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto








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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

I had a similar issue with my 29mk2 with Yanmar 2GM. Turned out it was the 
transmission slipping. I suspected my Flexofold prop at first, and eventually 
discovered that pushing the shifter hard down helped, before having a mechanic 
aboard who immediately recognized it as the transmission. All better now since 
having it rebuilt. Adjusting the shift cable may help as well. 

Derek McLeod 
Aileron, 1983 29MK2
Toronto, ON___

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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy had the same symptoms three years ago...broken strut.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1
Tolchester, MD
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Re: Stus-List Vent recommendations 30MkII

[Chris via CnC-List]

I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension are
needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> The 1988 C 30MkII has 4 opening Lewmar hatches; two in the cabin, one
in 1/4 berth, and one in the bathroom.  My boat is 2000 miles away and
cannot verify it though.  I just bought it.
> I would like to install solar vents to move air and control humidity.
> Where should I put them?  Here are my thoughts.
> One in the bathroom due to showers and higher water use.  One in the /14
berth to keep the temps cool and fresh air supply.  And, finally one in the
cabin.  I think I need to avoid the large port over the V-berth due to
water intrusion while sailing to weather, noise over the berth while
sleeping, and finally, perhaps I might on occasion cover the port for
darkness while sleeping and the vent would be covered.
> Anyone know what size vent is needed as I don't know the Lewmar hatch
dimensions or material (Plexiglas?).
> Anyone have a better recommendation on the quantity and locations?
> Thanks.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Vent recommendations 30MkII

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

The 1988 C 30MkII has 4 opening Lewmar hatches; two in the cabin, one in
1/4 berth, and one in the bathroom.  My boat is 2000 miles away and cannot
verify it though.  I just bought it.
I would like to install solar vents to move air and control humidity.
Where should I put them?  Here are my thoughts.
One in the bathroom due to showers and higher water use.  One in the /14
berth to keep the temps cool and fresh air supply.  And, finally one in the
cabin.  I think I need to avoid the large port over the V-berth due to
water intrusion while sailing to weather, noise over the berth while
sleeping, and finally, perhaps I might on occasion cover the port for
darkness while sleeping and the vent would be covered.
Anyone know what size vent is needed as I don't know the Lewmar hatch
dimensions or material (Plexiglas?).
Anyone have a better recommendation on the quantity and locations?
Thanks.
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Re: Stus-List Transducers protruding

[J Roger via CnC-List]

Test

On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 2:58 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> JohnBob,
>
> You can counter sink the transducer with a router.  I use a set like
> http://amzn.com/B00012XC5C
>
> That way I can use the inside of the hole as my guide and use a bearing
> that is small enough to give me the width of cut that I want.
>
> Be sure that you cut the counter sink slightly deeper and slightly wider
> than the flange on the transducer and then back fill with epoxy so that the
> internal grain of the glass, or the core isn't exposed.
>
> Along the same lines as drilling out too big a hole for your through hull,
>  back filing it to protect the core and then redrilling for the right size.
>
> James
> S/V Kristy
> 1971 C 39
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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