Re: Stus-List C mk1 1979 interior finish

2016-10-04 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I've been very happy with the look I get from Sikens Cetal SRD (siding,
rails, and deck) Natural Teak color.  I can brush it on all my exterior
wood work or rub it on the interior wood.  YMMV.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 4, 2016 7:16 PM, "Steven Tattrie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am finishing the teak handrails outside and interior - anyone have any
> idea on what was used to finish the interior handrails from factory. I
> would like to try to match the original look. looks like a stain or satin
> finish of some sort.
>
> steve
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C mk1 1979 interior finish

2016-10-04 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
Years ago a lister posted a recipe developed thru trial and error. Probably
was Wally.
I use it often, matches interior teak on my 1980 30-1 precisely:

Minwax stains:
1 part Provincial
2 parts Golden Pecan
2 parts Colonial Maple

And I've slowly changed the factory oil finish to Epifanes hand rubbed look
varnish, looks about the same, less mildew etc.

Nate

Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River Hudson WI

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior




On Tue, Oct 4, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Steven Tattrie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am finishing the teak handrails outside and interior - anyone have any
> idea on what was used to finish the interior handrails from factory. I
> would like to try to match the original look. looks like a stain or satin
> finish of some sort.
>
> steve
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Nova kool

2016-10-04 Thread Mitchell's via CnC-List
Tom, As long as you didn't defrost with a sharp knife and the compressor fan is 
clean it should run well (unless the board is fried). Mine had a leak and it 
only takes about 1.1 ounces to refill and it's easily over filled so best to 
vacuum out and weigh the new charge in. Like Josh says check wiring too. I was 
able to refill mine and install a new computer fan to get a couple more years 
out of it but replaced it with a new unit this summer. The new unit is modern 
refrigerant and has an adjustable output. It uses less power too. The old one 
was 1990s vintage and used R12 which isn't environmentally friendly. If you can 
send it to nova kool for a cheap rebuild, it may last longer than fixing it 
yourself but you can't keep bending the copper tubing. If your compressor is 
located where mine is under the aft cabin wet locker, you need to lose the heat 
and cold beer is important! IMHO installing a new unit is 10x the cost of 
repairing the old one but well worth it. Ask yourself what you w
 ould do if it was in your own kitchen at home. It doesn't owe you anything by 
now and you can't buy parts for that vintage any longer. I think it was 1100$ 
CDN so what's that $15 USD? Lol. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On




Sent from my mobile device. 

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Re: Stus-List Leaving the C List for 8 months while going south!!!!

2016-10-04 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Oh, I almost forgot the cats!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 4, 2016, at 7:48 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob — we’ll be watching you…   :^)
> 
> I hope you and Admiral Maggie have a great trip!
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
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Re: Stus-List Leaving the C List for 8 months while going south!!!!

2016-10-04 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Bob — we’ll be watching you…   :^)

I hope you and Admiral Maggie have a great trip!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 4, 2016, at 3:37 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Stu:
> 
> Please take me off the mailing list until June of 2017 since we will be 
> headed south to the Bahamas and back.
> 
> We will be continuing our sailing blog all along the way.  You can subscribe 
> if you like by simply adding your email address and hitting submit.  You will 
> then get an email to confirm your subscription.  Alternatively, you can just 
> check our blog once in a while by using the address:
> 
> dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> 
> Everyone, have a great winter!
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
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Stus-List C mk1 1979 interior finish

2016-10-04 Thread Steven Tattrie via CnC-List
I am finishing the teak handrails outside and interior - anyone have any
idea on what was used to finish the interior handrails from factory. I
would like to try to match the original look. looks like a stain or satin
finish of some sort.

steve
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Re: Stus-List Hurricane Mathew vs. Boat Show

2016-10-04 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
See you Friday

Joel

On Tuesday, October 4, 2016, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The show must go on...and unfortunately I be there manning the Novabraid
> booth in tent C.  If any listers plan to go to the show before the really
> heavy stuff starts coming down, please stop by and introduce yourselves.
> I'll be there through Monday...while my boat sits in her mooring in
> Massachusetts.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2016, at 10:37 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/graphics_at4.shtml?5-daynl#contents
>
>
>
> At the very least, this will give me a 40+ knot Nor’easter right on the
> bow when going home Sunday. At worst…….I live on a flat island L
>
> Any C on the east coast needs to be ready for this. I was kind of
> kidding about the boat show – I am going the other direction to my mooring
> up the Chester if this storm is still on for our area.
>
> NC – you guys are REALLY in the firing line for this!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hurricane Mathew vs. Boat Show

2016-10-04 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
The show must go on...and unfortunately I be there manning the Novabraid booth 
in tent C.  If any listers plan to go to the show before the really heavy stuff 
starts coming down, please stop by and introduce yourselves.  I'll be there 
through Monday...while my boat sits in her mooring in Massachusetts.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 4, 2016, at 10:37 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/graphics_at4.shtml?5-daynl#contents
>  
> At the very least, this will give me a 40+ knot Nor’easter right on the bow 
> when going home Sunday. At worst…….I live on a flat island L
> Any C on the east coast needs to be ready for this. I was kind of kidding 
> about the boat show – I am going the other direction to my mooring up the 
> Chester if this storm is still on for our area.
> NC – you guys are REALLY in the firing line for this!
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Leaving the C List for 8 months while going south!!!!

2016-10-04 Thread Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Bob

Have a great trip.  Not sure if this is your first trip or not but I'm sure you 
will make lots of memories.  We made the trip in 14/15.  Met many great 
cruisers and cemented some great friendships.

We'll keep and eye on your blog.

Bon-yoyage

Mike
PERSUASION
Www.persuasion37.com 
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 4, 2016, at 4:37 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Stu:
> 
> Please take me off the mailing list until June of 2017 since we will be 
> headed south to the Bahamas and back.
> 
> We will be continuing our sailing blog all along the way.  You can subscribe 
> if you like by simply adding your email address and hitting submit.  You will 
> then get an email to confirm your subscription.  Alternatively, you can just 
> check our blog once in a while by using the address:
> 
> dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> Everyone, have a great winter!
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I was going to mention Ken Hellewell but David beat me to it. You may be 
>> able to identify the bow of a C 38 (not Landfall) on the cover of his book:
>> https://www.amazon.ca/Kens-Cruising-Yacht/dp/0972749225
>> 
>> I think it's a 38, anyway. That book has been on my wish list for a while. 
>> We just sailed our 32 from Killarney to Penetang - not "offshore" but 21 
>> hours and no land in sight for some time. It's not a big deal, but it felt 
>> that way to me and the lady. Boat has always proven tougher than us. We have 
>> no ego about the sailing anymore and I'm not afraid to admit that I am a 
>> fair weather sailor :)
>> We pick our weather. When you're crossing an ocean you don't really get that 
>> luxury. We've made similar passages on Lake Ontario - the great lakes can be 
>> really rough, but you get to pick your weather so it's avoidable, most of 
>> the time. We have gotten caught out in some really scary stuff anyway and 
>> the boat is always tougher than we are. 
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Battery tester

2016-10-04 Thread Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
I installed a Victron 702 plus a VE.Direct Bluetooth smart dongle and I'm
very happy with it.  I followed the instructions here for the most part:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_monitor

With the Bluetooth dongle and the Victron iPhone app I can easily check the
status of the house and engine battery from anywhere on the boat.
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Stus-List Leaving the C List for 8 months while going south!!!!

2016-10-04 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Stu:

Please take me off the mailing list until June of 2017 since we will be headed 
south to the Bahamas and back.

We will be continuing our sailing blog all along the way.  You can subscribe if 
you like by simply adding your email address and hitting submit.  You will then 
get an email to confirm your subscription.  Alternatively, you can just check 
our blog once in a while by using the address:

dainyrays.blogspot.com

Everyone, have a great winter!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 23, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was going to mention Ken Hellewell but David beat me to it. You may be able 
> to identify the bow of a C 38 (not Landfall) on the cover of his book:
> https://www.amazon.ca/Kens-Cruising-Yacht/dp/0972749225
> 
> I think it's a 38, anyway. That book has been on my wish list for a while. 
> We just sailed our 32 from Killarney to Penetang - not "offshore" but 21 
> hours and no land in sight for some time. It's not a big deal, but it felt 
> that way to me and the lady. Boat has always proven tougher than us. We have 
> no ego about the sailing anymore and I'm not afraid to admit that I am a fair 
> weather sailor :)
> We pick our weather. When you're crossing an ocean you don't really get that 
> luxury. We've made similar passages on Lake Ontario - the great lakes can be 
> really rough, but you get to pick your weather so it's avoidable, most of the 
> time. We have gotten caught out in some really scary stuff anyway and the 
> boat is always tougher than we are. 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Nova Kool Recharge

2016-10-04 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I would not mess with the refrigerant till all other options are
exhausted.  The Danfoss compressor package is pretty bomb proof.  The
electronics that the resellers attach are less so.  If you go to the
danfoss website you can figure out how to bypass the electronics and wire
it the way danfoss expected.  This will provide you an opportunity to
troubleshoot the electronics separately.  I found on mine that the 2 fuse
holders had bad solder connections creating a hot spot and intermittent
operation.  The previous year I had found the little computer fan not
running on the condenser.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 4, 2016 12:48 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I called the Nova Kool tech support folks.  They said that the refrigerant
> system is sealed and never loses pressure absent a leak.  After discussing
> my issue, which is kind of intermittent,  he concluded that it is probably
> the electronic control module going away.  This part is no longer
> available.  No offer of service made.  He recommended replacing the whole
> thing.
>
> That being the case, I'm not sure what I have to lose by recharging it,
> aside from the cost of the hose/gauge and a can of refrigerant...
>
> Tom B
>
> At 06:48 AM 10/4/2016, you wrote:
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2016 02:30:39 +
> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Nova Kool Recharge
> Message-ID:
>  <CA+zaCRDZYNLvMBpV3ymuFnEfbcdufiXa6r9z3p9E0kVHpvq3kQ@mail.gmail.
> com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> No house calls.  You have to disassemble and ship to them.  The fittings
> are hermetic and lossless so you just wrench them apart and ship.  They fix
> and recharge and ship it back.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Oct 3, 2016 9:44 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Do they do house calls? I had a retired refrigeration guy come out to the
> > boat, check the entire system and recharge properly. $50. I may never be
>  ...snip...
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: < http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/
> attachments/20161004/57e8af9a/attachment-0001.html >
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Center of Gravity

2016-10-04 Thread Robert Mazza via CnC-List
Hi Ron,

Thank you for reading Good Old Boat magazine. I've been working with Karen
and Jerry for over three years now and they are great people who put out a
great magazine. I encourage everyone to subscribe!

No, I don't follow all the treads, but this one did catch my eye. I notice
Stephen didn't specifically say for what boat the trailer was being
fabricated, but it seems he owns a 34+, so I'm assuming it's for that
boat.  It's my understanding that at 11'-7" beam the 34+ will need some
sort of wide load permit to tow it very far, but I'm sure Stephen has
looked into that.

With regard to the finding the location of the Longitudinal Center of
Gravity (LCG), in order for the boat to float on her lines, the LCG has to
be in line with the Longitudinal Center of Buoyancy (LCB). We did not do
detailed weight studies at C to find the LCG, but we did find LCB from
the Lines Plan. I don't have the data sheet for the 34+ (Rob Ball may have
it, though), but the data sheets that I do have (LF39 and C 40) show an
LCB location of 53.6% and 53.9% of the Designed Water Line (waterline not
including skegs and rudders) from the forward end of the waterline (Station
0). The CG of the keel generally was located a few percentage points
forward of the LCB in order to induce some bow down trim, as well as to
compensate for crew weight aft. This "ballast lead" was a full 5% for the
race oriented 40, and only .1% for the more cruising oriented LF39. Keep in
mind, though, that the LCG of the boat should be forward of the axis of the
trailer to induce some tongue weight. I believe a tongue weight of 10% of
towing weight is often recommended. I'm assuming this is at least a dual
axle trailer, so you may have some flexibility in that regard.

I hope that provides some help, but certainly allow some room for fore and
aft adjustment of the boat on the trailer to fine tune the weight
distribution. I should emphasize, of course, that all this is offered for
guidance only and should not be taken as definitive, since I do not have
specific information on this boat. .

Good luck with this.

Rob Mazza

On Tue, Oct 4, 2016 at 11:51 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rob Mazza (sp?) from the list did a design article for Good Old Boat about
> the center of buoyancy etc.  It would seem the CG would be close by.
> IIRC it was about a third back from the leading edge of the keel.  Not all
> boats are the same, but it's a good starting point.
> Rob, are you tracking this and have something to suggest?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 2, 2016 12:22 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Center of Gravity
>
> Probably a bit further forward. My first guess would be to look for the
> lift
> points and expect the CG is half way between them.
>
> The lift points, usually, are somewhere around the aft end of the companion
> way (bulkhead)  and around the chainplates/bulkhead around the mast.
>
> I don't know your boat in particular, but from the experience (for the last
> 10 years I regularly participate in hauling out and launching around 100
> boats each spring and fall), I would say that it is a reasonably good
> educated guess.
>
> Marek
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen
> Thorne via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2016 12:05
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Stephen Thorne 
> Subject: Stus-List Center of Gravity
>
>
> Folks I am in final stages of new trailer fabrication and need to identify
> approximately where CG is for boat for placement on trailer.  Original
> owner
> manual doesn't define CG.  I am thinking towards trailing edge of keel but
> this is somewhat of a guess.  Any thoughts to clarify or estimate CG would
> be much appreciated
>
> Stephen Thorne
> 34+
> DejaVu
> 770.722.2848
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List engine compartment insulation

2016-10-04 Thread Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

I got this stuff...but have not finished redoing the compartment yet.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/soundtec-sound-insulation-vinyl-foam-barrier-composite-sdivf1010m27psa

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/soundtec-mylar-tape-for-sound-insulation-sdht2sk

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/soundtec-sound-insulation-hanger-set-3-piece-hanger2

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 06:48 AM 10/4/2016, you wrote:

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2016 09:47:30 -0400
From: Ron Ricci 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine compartment insulation
Message-ID: <057e01d21e45$daa419d0$8fec4d70$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Danny,

I used about eighteen 12" x 12" x 1-1/8" square tiles I bought from Sailor
Solutions. See:
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails=SPM01.
The engine access panels seat against the engine compartment frame using
3/8"x2" or 3/4"x2" closed cell vinyl nitrile tape.

The tiles were easy to work with and after 5 years, I'm still happy with the
results.

Regards,

Ron

S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
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Stus-List Nova Kool Recharge

2016-10-04 Thread Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
I called the Nova Kool tech support folks.  They said that the 
refrigerant system is sealed and never loses pressure absent a 
leak.  After discussing my issue, which is kind of intermittent,  he 
concluded that it is probably the electronic control module going 
away.  This part is no longer available.  No offer of service 
made.  He recommended replacing the whole thing.


That being the case, I'm not sure what I have to lose by recharging 
it, aside from the cost of the hose/gauge and a can of refrigerant...


Tom B

At 06:48 AM 10/4/2016, you wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2016 02:30:39 +
From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nova Kool Recharge
Message-ID:
<ca+zacrdzynlvmbpv3ymufnefbcdufixa6r9z3p9e0kvhpvq...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

No house calls.  You have to disassemble and ship to them.  The fittings
are hermetic and lossless so you just wrench them apart and ship.  They fix
and recharge and ship it back.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 3, 2016 9:44 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Do they do house calls? I had a retired refrigeration guy come out to the
> boat, check the entire system and recharge properly. $50. I may never be
 ...snip...
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery tester

2016-10-04 Thread Dave S via CnC-List
I am quite happy with my Victron BMV 700 battery monitor.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html

Dave





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin
Schenk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 16:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Franklin Schenk
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery tester

I like the KISS method.  Use a multimeter to check the battery when fully
charged.  It should be about 12.5 volts.  Check it when the engine is
running and it should be 13.5 volts or higher.  If the battery cannot be
recharged to 12.5 volts, it is probably bad.  That is when you pull it out
and take it to a battery store.  This has worked for me for more years than
most of you guys have been alive,.

Frank

On Monday, October 3, 2016 1:21 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I would like to be able to monitor the health of my batteries without
having to haul them off the boat.  I looked at Amazon and found many
battery testers (load and conductance) from $15 to $250.  Has anyone tried
any of these devices and have any suggestions on what to buy or not to buy?
Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT
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Re: Stus-List Center of Gravity

2016-10-04 Thread Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Rob Mazza (sp?) from the list did a design article for Good Old Boat about the 
center of buoyancy etc.  It would seem the CG would be close by.  IIRC it was 
about a third back from the leading edge of the keel.  Not all boats are the 
same, but it's a good starting point.Rob, are you tracking this and have 
something to suggest?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Sent: Sunday, October 2, 2016 12:22 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Center of Gravity
   
Probably a bit further forward. My first guess would be to look for the lift
points and expect the CG is half way between them.

The lift points, usually, are somewhere around the aft end of the companion
way (bulkhead)  and around the chainplates/bulkhead around the mast.

I don't know your boat in particular, but from the experience (for the last
10 years I regularly participate in hauling out and launching around 100
boats each spring and fall), I would say that it is a reasonably good
educated guess. 

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen
Thorne via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2016 12:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Thorne 
Subject: Stus-List Center of Gravity


Folks I am in final stages of new trailer fabrication and need to identify
approximately where CG is for boat for placement on trailer.  Original owner
manual doesn't define CG.  I am thinking towards trailing edge of keel but
this is somewhat of a guess.  Any thoughts to clarify or estimate CG would
be much appreciated

Stephen Thorne
34+ 
DejaVu
770.722.2848
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Battery tester

2016-10-04 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
You don’t want a battery tester, you want a battery monitor.
From $ to $$$ and simple to complex:
A digital voltmeter is a great start and you can learn a lot from just this. 
They can be had from maybe $20 on up. There are good analog meters, but the 
difference between 12.5 and 12.6 or 14.0 and 14.2 is a big deal and it is rare 
to be able to see that on an analog meter.
Add a good digital bi-directional ammeter and now you can see current going in 
or out. Once again there are analog meters, but it is hard to see the 
difference between 2 and 3 amps on a 100 or 200 amp scale. This is what I have 
– digital volts for the start battery, digital amps and digital volts for the 
house battery. After a while you get a good feel for what is normal.
The next step up is an amp-hour meter. These keep track of amps in and out and 
try to give you a state of charge. For example, if you run a 5 amp load for 10 
hours it should say -50 AH and if you charge at 5 amps for 10 hours it should 
count back up to zero (or it might count down from the programmed capacity – 
say 100 down to 50 and back up to 100). These are usually pretty expensive. I 
used to sell them and have mixed feelings about these units. The problem is 
Peukert’s Law (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peukert%27s_law). 100 amps for 1 
hour is not the same as 1 amp for 100 hours on the discharge side, the battery 
will go dead faster at 100 amps, and the charging is not 100% efficient either. 
The meters use various formulas to try and stay accurate, but in my experience 
they always drift off and lose the idea of where full is.
Balmar has a proprietary metering system that does not use current shunts, but 
somehow keeps track anyway and by all reports I have read actually works 
better. YMMV – never tried one – but here you go: 
http://www.balmar.net/?page_id=15245

I have a lot of fun with kids on the boat and the meters. Depending on my mood, 
they either have to keep the ammeter in the positive range while they play with 
their electronic toys or at least keep the voltage above a certain level. It 
keeps them motivated to move the solar panel and they learned to charge their 
toys when the engine is running LOL.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin 
Schenk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 16:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Franklin Schenk
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery tester

I like the KISS method.  Use a multimeter to check the battery when fully 
charged.  It should be about 12.5 volts.  Check it when the engine is running 
and it should be 13.5 volts or higher.  If the battery cannot be recharged to 
12.5 volts, it is probably bad.  That is when you pull it out and take it to a 
battery store.  This has worked for me for more years than most of you guys 
have been alive,.

Frank

On Monday, October 3, 2016 1:21 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I would like to be able to monitor the health of my batteries without having to 
haul them off the boat.  I looked at Amazon and found many battery testers 
(load and conductance) from $15 to $250.  Has anyone tried any of these devices 
and have any suggestions on what to buy or not to buy? Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D21E34.1A7FC700]


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Stus-List Hurricane Mathew vs. Boat Show

2016-10-04 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/graphics_at4.shtml?5-daynl#contents

At the very least, this will give me a 40+ knot Nor’easter right on the bow 
when going home Sunday. At worst…….I live on a flat island ☹
Any C on the east coast needs to be ready for this. I was kind of kidding 
about the boat show – I am going the other direction to my mooring up the 
Chester if this storm is still on for our area.
NC – you guys are REALLY in the firing line for this!
Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List engine compartment insulation

2016-10-04 Thread Ron Ricci via CnC-List
Danny,

I used about eighteen 12" x 12" x 1-1/8" square tiles I bought from Sailor
Solutions. See:
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails=SPM01.
The engine access panels seat against the engine compartment frame using
3/8"x2" or 3/4"x2" closed cell vinyl nitrile tape.   

The tiles were easy to work with and after 5 years, I'm still happy with the
results.

Regards,

Ron

S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 3, 2016 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List engine compartment insulation

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone had any advice on engine compartment insulation.
The foam backed reflective stuff on my T40 was basically disintegrating.  I
cleaned most of it out with a scraper and a shop 
vac.  Have any of you dealt with this?   What should i put in its 
place?  seems it will be a more tedious job than difficult.


--
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Nova Kool Recharge

2016-10-04 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
I picked up a set of these at a flea market years ago,

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/refrigerant-gauges-/112150576806?hash=item1a1cb1fea6
:g:OzAAAOSwmfhX4KSC

 

used it on home, shop, car and boat refrigerant systems - one use can pay
for it.

Your system should list the low and high charges, just squirt refrigerant
into it 'till you reach the high charge.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 2:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Nova Kool Recharge

 

My NovaKool LT200 refrigerator has been under performing and after running
through a list of possible issues I am convinced that it needs a refrigerant
recharge.  I have checked into it and it doesn't look difficult.  But I am a
little concerned about either under charging or over charging the system.

Can this be done without purging the system with a vacuum and will the gauge
on the hose be sufficient to get the right amount of refrigerant into the
system?

thx

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  


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Stus-List Third Wave grounding

2016-10-04 Thread robert via CnC-List
There is a complete inventory of new composite sails and a new spinnaker 
on Third Wave.no idea why Steve Davies would invest that money for 
sails and then sell the boat for what the sails must have cost.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-10-03 11:01 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
I don’t think anybody was hurt. Jamie said the owner was by himself 
and just not paying attention when he grounded.
There is severe keel damage visible on the outside, but the real 
damage is inside; her “ribs” are broken.  Jamie at SWM said she is 
likely a total loss. Might be a good opportunity to get some nice gear 
if they part her out. Yes, she is on the hard at SWM, left side as you 
go in.



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