Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance: SHAME on Boat U.S./Geico!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I had a toolbox full of snap-on tools stolen and Allstate tried to 
depreciate them. I argued that there could never be any depreciation on 
Snap-On tools because they had an unlimited lifetime exchange guarantee. 
I had presented Snap-on with screw drivers broken into 3 pieces and they 
handed me a new one. Even a little plating flaking off was enough to get 
a tool replaced with a brand new one. Allstate relented and paid me full 
replacement cost. It was almost $6000. That was in the late 1970's.



Bill Bina
On 2/9/2018 12:12 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


So what about Progressive or Allstate?

Do either one of them do the “depreciating” BS? I can see depreciating 
sails and exterior canvas, but things like a pedestal? It is cast 
aluminum and should last 500 years without issue if no one breaks it 
or steals it.


Seems like a backdoor rate increase – you get less for your money L

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*David via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, February 09, 2018 12:00 PM
*To:* Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* David; John Christopher
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance: SHAME on Boat 
U.S./Geico!


Yup...apparently BoatUS lost their shirt after the last round of 
hurricanes...boats over-insured etc.


David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)




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Re: Stus-List Federal v. State: both state title and CoD

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.dco.uscg.mil/Our-Organization/Assistant-Commandant-for-Prevention-Policy-CG-5P/Inspections-Compliance-CG-5PC-/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center-Contact-Info/

They have limited phone hours due to multiple severe budget cuts. They 
also have email and snail mail addresses to try. It's all there. :-)


Bill Bina


On 2/8/2018 12:43 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
I wish it was that simple.  the NVDC site caters to those questions 
regarding the application for and renewal of certificate of 
documentation.  As for the phone number, I have tried to call.  After 
going through many levels of menu options, I got a message that said 
enter 1 to leave a message, and when I entered 1, I only got a message 
stating “Sorry the mailbox is full”


The question at that time was why is my vessel name listed on the 
documentation with an asterisk as in “JOHANNA ROSE    *"




-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 8, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:



The only answers that matter are here:



They even have phone support if you can't find the answer to a question
somewhere on their very complete website, or need some help interpreting
anything.

I think you surrender your state title when applying for documentation.
Even if you didn't, I know for certain that the state title becomes null
and void when a vessel is documented. The Federal Documentation "is"
your title.

Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Federal v. State: both state title and CoD question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The only answers that matter are here:



They even have phone support if you can't find the answer to a question 
somewhere on their very complete website, or need some help interpreting 
anything.


I think you surrender your state title when applying for documentation. 
Even if you didn't, I know for certain that the state title becomes null 
and void when a vessel is documented. The Federal Documentation "is" 
your title.


Bill Bina


On 2/8/2018 9:52 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

Interesting question, but I’m not ready to go another round.
I’m surprised the Feds would have proceeded to document a boat that is 
State titled.  My guess is that the Federal statute says something 
about this (like State title being nullified upon issuance of federal 
documentation), but who knows.  Perhaps someone on this list does.

*From:* Dreuge via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, February 08, 2018 8:50 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Dreuge 
*Subject:* Stus-List Federal v. State: both state title and CoD question
Hi,
I have both a state title and USCG certificate of documentation.  This 
is only because I registered the vessel with the state first, but if I 
documented first, I would not have a state title.
Let’s say I foolishly sign over my state title to one person while at 
the same time I sign over my USCG CoD to another person.  Who has 
legal rights to take the vessel.   I’m guessing the one with federal 
documentation, but I’m also thinking that the one who pays the state 
registration and taxes first may have an edge, at least with local 
authorities, at getting possession (which as the saying goes is 9/10 
of the law).



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



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Re: Stus-List Recent discussion regarding Federal v. State Boat Documentation

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

This is true in all 50 states because it is a FEDERAL law. What the 
sentence means is that the boat must not display state registration 
numbers if it is documented. That is what they mean by "identified". 
This is not to say that states cannot require you to register the boat. 
They just cannot require a visible state registration number. They CAN 
display a sticker indicating that state fees and taxes have been paid. 
That is not a registration number. I live in Connecticut. My boat is 
Federally Documented and also registered in CT. The markings on the boat 
are the name, hailing port and a small sticker from the state that shows 
taxes and fees are current. Federal Documentation is the title for the 
boat, and Connecticut uses my Doc number as the registration number on 
the paperwork. No state is arguing about this, as it works just fine for 
all concerned, and has for a long time. Most, but not all, states 
require a state registration for Federally Documented boats. This is not 
a problem for anybody involved. People seem to tie themselves in knots 
over this. It is not even slightly complicated. BoatUS is not practicing 
law without a license, or drawing their own conclusions. They are just 
stating the laws as they plainly exist on the books.


Bill Bina


On 2/7/2018 11:40 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
I reviewed the first two bullet points from the BoatUS recital, and at 
least in PA they are not (or may not) be correct:


  * Vessels may only be identified as either a State Registered Vessel
or a Federally Documented Vessel - NOT BOTH.

Not true in PA.  There is a difference between titling and 
registration.  In PA, Federally documented boats are not required to 
be titled under the PA Fish and Boat Code (and, I believe, cannot be 
State titled).  However, they must be registered.  This change was 
made to the State statute in the 1990s and became effective on March 
1, 1998.  Under the old requirements, federally documented boats were 
exempt from State registration.  Under the new requirements, federally 
documented boats used for recreational purpose must be registered.  As 
far as I know, no one has challenged this scheme, and I doubt a court 
would conclude that State registration requirements are preempted 
because they are help the State keep track of boats and are not in 
conflict with federal law regarding documentation.


  * When a vessel becomes federally Documented, the State Registration
Numbers and Letters must be removed.

    This I don’t know, but I suspect BoatUS is correct.  The reason is 
that federal law has requirements about how a federally documented 
boat must be identified.  To get around this issue, the PA Fish and 
Boat Commission requires decals (not State registration numbers) to be 
placed on the boat.  Most sailboat owners place the decal on the mast.
    As we discussed in a previous thread about this issue, this is a 
complicated and unclear area of law which, not surprisingly, the U.S. 
Supreme Court has not addressed.  BoatUS would be wise not to give 
legal advice in promoting the sale of graphics.




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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It might be a rather complicated search query. You might be able to 
purchase the complete database and then develop your own custom query. 
Bear in mind that there are many categories (6?) of documented vessels 
besides "recreational". The two letter state initials are in the same 
field as the rest of the hailing port, and not in it's own field, so 
that may be a problem, too. I looked at the application form, CG1258, 
and they do not have the state in a box of its own. Possibly not quite 
as easy as it might seem at first glance.


Bill Bina


On 2/1/2018 11:36 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Bill — just for grins, I sent off an inquiry to the National Vessel 
Documentation Center asking if it was possible to tell me how many 
documented vessels were in a particular state.  I received the 
following reply:


This is in response to your e-mail dated January 26, 2018 asking 
question concerning the National Vessel Documentation Center's database.


The National Vessel Documentation Center is unable to search for 
vessels by state.  We search by Coast Guard official number, hull 
number and/or owner name.


As I’m sure they have a “real” database with all of this info, this 
just means they aren’t interested in doing it…


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 26, 2018, at 9:00 AM, coltrek via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I'll bet you can count the number of documented vessels in Colorado 
on one hand !



Bill




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Re: Stus-List Not C & C but boat related...Trophys

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

One local regatta used conch shell "horns" of varying sizes and levels 
of adornment.


Not sure where they got them, but they were along these lines:




Bill Bina


On 2/1/2018 9:31 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:


Hello All,


I am responsible for the trophys for a a fairly large NE regatta and 
do not want to do the same old same old.  PHRF boats on down to Lasers.



Any observations or experiences out there of great trophy ideas?


Thanks in advance.



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Re: Stus-List Battery Equalizer Solution?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The price is outrageous for what it contains. This will help an old 
dying battery serve for a little while longer, but it will not really 
"renew" it. You can do the same thing with very cheap Epsom Salt from 
the drug store. If you battery needs this, you are at a pont where you 
should be pricing a new battery.


http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/additives

Bill Bina


On 1/26/2018 2:16 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All,

Any one used this Battery Equalizer solution?  
https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/fluid/BE12oz.html

Snake oil or useful?

Thanks, Lee
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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

State and local authorities often patrol the exact same waters as USCG, 
enforcing state and local laws. State and Local laws are not permitted 
to exceed or countermand Federal laws. Also note that in many places, 
the Federal Government has officially ceded control of Federal navigable 
waters to local authorities. Witness the anchoring battles in Florida.


Bill Bina


On 1/26/2018 9:38 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Matt — it’s my understanding that the federal government has sole 
authority over the Great Lakes Inland Waterways for purposes of 
navigation.  Are you saying that’s not the case?


From a US DOJ site which includes parts of the US code:


Great Lakes Jurisdiction

Also included within the "special territorial and maritime 
jurisdiction of the United States" by 18 U.S.C. § 7(2) are the Great 
Lakes and their connecting waterways…


Federal jurisdiction under 18 U.S.C. §  7(2) over American vessels is 
not affected by the existence of concurrent state jurisdiction…


It seems like the Supremacy clause in the Constitution would mean that 
Federal law will supplant local jurisdictions in all cases.  The 
jurisdictions may overlap, but the Federal rules will always trump 
local ones.


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Jan 26, 2018, at 7:49 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I just reviewed your note below and the article writer’s legal 
conclusion about PFBC legal authority (sometimes called 
“jurisdiction”). For clarification, my understanding is that the 
PFBC’s authority to regulate boats extends to navigable waters of the 
Commonwealth, while the USCG authority extends to navigable waters of 
the United States.  In the case of Lake Erie (and Presque Isle Bay), 
the authority of the two agencies overlaps.  In other words, portions 
of Lake Erie are both waters of the Commonwealth and waters of the 
United States, so both agencies have enforcement authority.  I 
suspect it’s the same in other States, but you would need to look at 
the applicable State statute(s).




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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast Step

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Old ships used Live Oak, which is a very different wood than White Oak.

Bill Bina



On 1/19/2018 1:23 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote:
Good white oak is considered to be relatively resistant to water 
penetration, used for canoes and old sailing ships.


https://www.wagnermeters.com/aboutamericanwhiteoakandredoak/

Working it, bending it and staining it ( or getting epoxy into it ) 
has usually been the top complaints.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


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Stus-List PLEASE TRIM POSTS!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

There is a conversation going on about a rondezvous, and everybody is 
responding without trimming the entire digest that  should have been 
removed before the first person sent it. This costs Stu a lot of money, 
and aggravates many on the list. Please be more considerate. Thank you.


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Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Please remember to TRIM replies, especially replies from the digest! =-O


On 12/11/2017 1:05 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List wrote:

Josh,

White Rocks Marina, where Pegathy is docked, has lots of transient 
slips, and Mike's Crab House North on the property (though it may be 
closed in early October). It's 33 min from Annapolis by car. Maryland 
Yacht club is also nearby, and might host the rendezvous. It's about 
4-5 hours north of Annapolis under sail.  Also an easy sail to Ft. 
McHenry and Baltomore's Inner Harbor. I can check out both if you wish.


Dan




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Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have a Kidde battery powered model that includes a digital readout, 
which I find useful. I can tell at a glance if levels are present or 
rising, long before the alarm sounds. A good set of batteries lasts many 
years.




Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine - NOW NAVMAN - instrument covers

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bill Bina


On 11/7/2017 10:04 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


Related to the subject of instrument covers, I may have the last 
functioning set of Navman/Northstar instruments in North America. But 
some of the old covers are shot, and I’ve been unable to purchase any 
more from Navico or EBay.


Until I replace the instruments – which is on the project list for 
over the winter or in the spring – I’d like to acquire two or three 
covers.


Does anyone have an old Navman/Northstar cover or two laying around 
that they would like to sell? Maybe as a contribution to support Stu? 
And I’d also like to get a backup 3100 depth display, since the one on 
the boat is functioning erattically.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC




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Re: Stus-List PFD

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

On 11/2/2017 10:47 AM, Hervey Machen via CnC-List wrote:

Matthew,
OnJoel's email click on the link to Defender, there's a coupon code to 
enter at checkout. I did and got the 39.99 price.

Hervey
1972 35 MK I



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Re: Stus-List Wild alternator prices

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The point is that not all alternators are safe for use with gasoline 
present. Mounting is a very secondary consideration! :-)


Bill Bina


On 11/1/2017 1:11 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


The 2 inch single-foot alternator mount on A4s is very easy to source, 
tons of gas and diesel inboards use it, not to mention cars.


*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, November 01, 2017 10:48 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wild alternator prices

Unless, like many on this list, you have an engine that uses gasoline!

Bill Bina

On 11/1/2017 10:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

FYI there are only about 3 ways to mount alternators on small
engines. There is NO reason to stick to OEM branded alternators.

Joe

Coquina




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Re: Stus-List Wild alternator prices

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Unless, like many on this list, you have an engine that uses gasoline!

Bill Bina


On 11/1/2017 10:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


FYI there are only about 3 ways to mount alternators on small engines. 
There is NO reason to stick to OEM branded alternators.


Joe

Coquina




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Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

According to the boat's documentation it is a 37 footer, not a 50 
footer. :-)


Bill Bina


On 10/31/2017 9:37 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
At one point they were 2 miles off Wake Island and in contact with the 
island but couldn't sail around to the harbor entrance.


Dennis C.


On Oct 31, 2017 8:12 AM, "Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Today’s reveal was that the women had an EPIRB that they failed to
use.
One of the sailors Jennifer “Fer” Appel, had an earlier career as
an Amateur Motorcycle Roadracer.  In her search for sponsorship
she routinely embellished her accomplishments according to several
of my friends who were involved in the sport.
Perhaps a vivid imagination can be fueled by 5 months at sea, but
the more I learn of their “ordeal”, the more skeptical I become.
And to top it off, she’s claiming the rescue ship caused
irreparable damage to her vessel by attempting to tow it.  She is
actually blaming their rescuers!
Amazing!
Chuck Gilchrest



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All contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

We lived through this discussion a long time ago at very great length. 
We do not need to re-litigate it again. We were all originally on a 
group hosted by Sailnet. Sailnet changed hands, and we were essentially 
left homeless. At that time, we had a long debate about where to go. 
Google really didn't exist then. The big player was Yahoo. There were a 
few other options, including staying with the new owners of Sailnet, 
even though they had dumped our archives. Having been burned badly by 
allowing someone else to host us, we were all very happy to have Stu 
provide us a stable home, where some outside bean-counter would never 
again have the option to exterminate us, and throw our content in the 
trash. Stu has done an amazing job all these years, and at one time 
mentioned that there was a succession plan in place. Anyone who thinks 
this is in any way a "business" for Stu should just go back out whatever 
door they came in. He has put an enormous amount of time and effort into 
keeping us together, and I would be shocked if the bottom line has not 
been a bit of red ink for him. Stu has formal arrangements for use of 
the official C material on his website and use of the logo for various 
items he occasionally makes available as modest fund raisers. The 
founders and principal players of the old C have expressed gratitude 
for Stu's efforts in keeping their legacy alive. Our old C's are also 
more saleable, and at a higher price, thanks to Stu's generous work.


Bill Bina


On 10/26/2017 12:54 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:


Stu, Thank you for what you do. No offense intended, but this is my 
perspective:


Mike,

I have lots of stuff on Google drives. This does not make it Google's 
property. This email list, in support of a brand of sailboats, is 
a Community of people who share a common passion. I personally do not 
think one person should own, control, and profit? from the experiences 
shared by many, for free, in support of a brand of sailboats we all love.


God forbid something happens to Stu, but if it did this list would 
evaporate unless there is a succession plan that I am unaware of. Stu 
does not own the intellectual property on this list and does not own 
any part or version of the actual C brand to my knowledge. If 
anything we should be sending money to Rob Ball, Cuthbertson's family, 
etc. for the designs they labored over and executed so well.


 Cloud storage is /storage/. That's all.

I have asked twice about what it costs to run the list. An answer 
hasn't been provided.


Thank you.


On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 5:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:


This is stus list and moving to cloud may make it their list.

I have met people through this list that I have later met in
person who are now friends. I have met people who I have never met
in person who are friends  I have solved engine problems due to
input from this list and learned that cows do better foredeck work
than me. I have learned a lot.

This list is stus and we have all benefited. Moving to cloud makes
it not stus. I am happy to support for all the c my family and
i have owned or sailed on and the ones that are not c I believe
strongly that this list is so good because of Stu

I also wonder if cows live on foredeck in Mexico

Mike Hoyt
The most consistent not currently c poster
The biggest interloper
One of the strongest believers in what Stu has built

1987 non c
Persistence
Out of the water today
Halifax, ns
_



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Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Sometimes new car buyers do not like some of the decals or stripes on 
the car they are buying. Car dealer body shops and detailers all use the 
3M stripe remover on brand new cars. It is relatively fast and doesn't 
damage the finish.


Bill Bina


On 10/18/2017 9:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


A word of caution …

On painted hulls the green scratchy pad removes gunk when washing with 
soapy water but also leaves permanent scratches.  (Guess how I know).


OTOH the 3m stripe removal wheel takes off lettering without an 
issue.  Great product!


Mike

Persistence

Still Sailing

Halifax

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*svpegasus38 via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, October 17, 2017 12:41 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* svpegasus38
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...

I used a heat gun, and plastic scraper to remove my old graphics, to 
remove the old glue I used Ez-off oven cleaner (the lemon stuff) and a 
green scratchy pad. Worked great.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy

POYC

Pegasus (for sale)

Lf38

Rebecca Leah LF39

 Original message 

From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" >


Date: 10/17/17 08:14 (GMT-08:00)

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" >

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...

Somebody makes a spray-on graphics remover that I used a few years 
ago.  It worked well as I recall, although multiple applications were 
required for some of the more tenacious areas.  Unfortunately, I can’t 
remember the name of the stuff.  Someone on the list may know.


*From:*David via CnC-List 

*Sent:*Tuesday, October 17, 2017 10:52 AM

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Cc:*David 

*Subject:*Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...

Andy,

Thanks but I speak of overlaying the stripes/stars and not the name 
and hailing port.  It seems that getting the striping out of the 
recesses will be much harder than the flush surface name/hailing.


Did you remove the striping with scraper and heat gun/hair dryer as well?

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)



*From:*CnC-List > on behalf of Andrew Burton via 
CnC-List >

*Sent:* Tuesday, October 17, 2017 10:41 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Andrew Burton
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Stripin g...

No, you'll get an uneven finish on the new graphics. You'll also be 
sticking the nice new stuff to lettering stuck on with  old glue. here 
are some tips from one of Sail Magazine's "experts." :)


https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/removing-and-applying-vinyl-lettering 



Andy

C 40

Peregrine

On Tue, Oct 17, 2017 at 10:33 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:


So I am putting on new name graphics and hull striping.   Assuming a 
good clean of the old striping, could I not lay the new over the old 
and eliminate the seemingly arduous (it being in a recess) step of 
removing it all?


Thanks in advance


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--

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 


phone  +401 965 5260



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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up 
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Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My understanding is that Yamaha intends to supply boat builders and it's 
own internal needs. Sounds as if they are out of the retail aftermarket.


Bill Bina


On 9/20/2017 1:54 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List wrote:
There was a note in our local paper in June that Kracor had been sold 
to Yamaha Marine.   I wonder if the new owners are taking a different 
approach to end user sales.  That would be unfortunate.


http://jsonl.in/2sM2I2R

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI



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Re: Stus-List In CT Dodger builder

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

custommarinecanvas.com in Noank, CT, which is part of Groton. Located in 
the sprawling, Spicer's Marina.


Bill Bina


On 8/24/2017 11:09 AM, Christian Planton via CnC-List wrote:
Hello, looking for this winter somebody to build a dodger for me.  
Frame and canvas... anybody know of a good company in CT?


Thanks
Christian
C 34
Saugatuck CT


--


Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems. Effective 
immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail 
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Re: Stus-List Voltages

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://batteryuniversity.com/

Bill Bina


On 7/21/2017 9:52 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote:

We have a number of UPSes in our customer base we support. I have recycled
at least 60 AGM batteries this year and sometimes play with them to 
see if they

are good or can be recovered.


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Re: Stus-List Voltages

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but if those voltages  of 4.7 
volts and 5.7 volts were correct, they mean these batteries have been 
quite severely damaged and will never have anywhere near full capacity 
again. That is not a maybe. You can get many batteries like that to take 
a surface charge and appear okay with a voltage reading that looks 
somewhat normal. There is no muscle behind it. The charger is telling 
you they are 100% charged to their new  and very diminished capacity.  
Some of the cells may also have run dry. This was not survivable for any 
flooded battery regardless of quality, or how it was treated otherwise.


Bill Bina


On 7/20/2017 10:10 AM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
An update on this.  Monday morning I brought my batteries home (I've 
got two of these: 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Marine-Battery-Group-Size-29DC/20531539 dated 
May/June 2014 with relatively light use and constantly maintained by a 
3amp solar charger).  And I bought this inexpensive charging unit: 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Electric-15-Amp-Battery-Charger/46167057.


One battery measured 4.7v before charging, and the other 5.7v, 
according to the charger's test function.  Each battery was on the 
charger for about 33 hours to charge back up to 13.2v / 13.5v and 100% 
charge according to the charger.  I haven't measured their voltage 
independently after charging with a multi-meter, but I did that at the 
start of the season and they were healthy.





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Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Failure to really know and UNDERSTAND the colregs is why boats hit 
boats. Congratulations on your license, but you may still have some 
larnin' to do, son. Colregs depend on everyone knowing and doing what is 
expected, but allows for those who don't. A stand on vessel that gives 
way is screwing up the system. Being unpredictable is not what a 
licensed captain ever wants to be. Many on this list have had licenses 
at levels from 6-pack up to 100 ton Masters for years and decades. :-)


Bill Bina


On 7/18/2017 3:45 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List wrote:
This is why boats hit boats. Sorry I mentioned it. Me personally, with 
license sitting in the desk at home, I would give way to a vessel with 
gear down and dragging a net.


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 18, 2017, at 3:28 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


See also Rule 2, and Rule 13. There is no such thing as "right of 
way" except for one specific instance in the inland rules. The 
fishing vessel was in the wrong in this case as described. :-)


Bill Bina


On 7/18/2017 3:19 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List wrote:
Vessel engaged in Fishing is restricted in her ability to move and 
has the right away over sailing vessel.

Yeah, just got the 6 pack license.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 18, 2017, at 2:07 PM, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


We were powered up on a broad reach with a chute heading eastward 
down LIS doing about 9 knots with just Lady Di and I.  Clear 
 September weekday so empty waters.  And a rare morning sail with 
great wind from the right direction.


Fishing dragger with stabilizers down is slowing bearing down on us 
from astern.   30 minutes later and he would have run right up our 
transom if I did not alter course and risk a roundup in the process


Prick was on bridge.  Wouldnt answer radio.

Some of those commercial guys just have a bad attitude towards us 
"yachties"


Either it's black or white with them...competent or maliciously 
incompetent.


1981 40-2.






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Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

See also Rule 2, and Rule 13. There is no such thing as "right of way" 
except for one specific instance in the inland rules. The fishing vessel 
was in the wrong in this case as described. :-)


Bill Bina


On 7/18/2017 3:19 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List wrote:
Vessel engaged in Fishing is restricted in her ability to move and has 
the right away over sailing vessel.

Yeah, just got the 6 pack license.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 18, 2017, at 2:07 PM, David via CnC-List > wrote:


We were powered up on a broad reach with a chute heading eastward 
down LIS doing about 9 knots with just Lady Di and I.  Clear 
 September weekday so empty waters.  And a rare morning sail with 
great wind from the right direction.


Fishing dragger with stabilizers down is slowing bearing down on us 
from astern.   30 minutes later and he would have run right up our 
transom if I did not alter course and risk a roundup in the process


Prick was on bridge.  Wouldnt answer radio.

Some of those commercial guys just have a bad attitude towards us 
"yachties"


Either it's black or white with them...competent or maliciously 
incompetent.


1981 40-2.




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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Once you install the vang on the boom with the weight of the flaked sail 
on it, you may find the supplied spring in the vang is either to weak, 
or too strong. Just call Garhauer and they will swap out the spring for 
whatever you need. The spring that comes with it is fine for most 
installations.


Bill Bina


On 6/2/2017 12:03 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
Great recommendation, thanks!  I just talked to Rob there. Very 
helpful.  This one would fit my 38LF and seems reasonable at $495 plus 
ship.


https://www.garhauerstore.com/rigid-boom-vang-rv20-1-sl.html



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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have a Garhauer power vang, and still find uses for my topping lift. 
It is handy to have around. I even use it to hold up the mast while 
removing or installing the boom and vang each fall and spring. It also 
hauls my long-range wifi up the backstay. :-)


Bill Bina


On 6/2/2017 9:42 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
I use both a rigid vang and topping lift. The problem is furling  the 
main in a seaway. When you lean on the boom for support to put sail 
ties on as the boat rolls and pitches, the vang won't support your 
weight and swings to leeward while getting lower. Even cranking on the 
sheet won't help.
Unless you're racing at a fairly high level, belt and suspenders is my 
recommendation.


Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Jun 2, 2017 at 8:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant
stella blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a
rigid vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom
above horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift
disappeared many years ago.

Gary

30-1

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Brian Davis
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Brian Davis >
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed
replies.  If you have pictures as well please email me some directly.

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her
numbers and also have some of the original paper work.  Paul
Eugenio who is on this list also helped confirm that last year
after I bought her. If you all have not seen his website you
should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job
documenting his work.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html


On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:

Hey Brian,

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you
topping lift it is relatively cheap and you can do the
splicing yourself (locked brummel eye splice with closed
thimble). If the length is in question then use the halyard to
pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end
and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two
so that the boom has room to be lifted.

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is
cleated on the boom just forward of the dodger.

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture
looks a lot like my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+
and was the successor to the 37 but also brought with it
characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 37?

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List"
> wrote:

Greetings everyone,

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging
on my LF 38.  I have the manual and it shows some length
measurements, but I'm not fully educated on the terms. The
only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides
that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I
bought her the SS cable that connects the back of the boom
to the top of the mast was off and stowed below and there
is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.
Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek
block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I
want to rig it the proper and best way, but I don't have
any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

Regards,

-- 


Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida


https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R=download


https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif

Re: Stus-List Replacement handles for Lewmar D2 clutches

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Not related. Sound Marine Diesel is Joe Demers, who is one of the better 
marine mechanics you will find anywhere.


Bill Bina


On 5/25/2017 12:44 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

I think that was a different person/business, Sound Marine Diesel.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 24 May 2017 at 12:21, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote:


Wasn't he on this list years ago?

Dennis C

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2017, at 11:16 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> wrote:


Based on stories I have read, I wouldn't deal with Sound
Boatworks, but YMMV.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/162237-sound-boatworks/#comment-4757147



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash project

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

If the seller was smart, he would remove all clutter and hose everything 
down. That would cost a few hours work, and not much if any money. It 
would not raise the value, but it would make a sale about 2000% more 
likely. The junk strewn photos of the dirty boat currently make it look 
much worse than it is.


Bill Bina


On 5/24/2017 11:24 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
Wow, what a great boat! If I didn't have my current boat, I would be 
seriously looking at at that one! Its hard to believe that this is the 
same model as the neglected one about to be trashed! Thanks Mike for 
sharing this.


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255



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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Previously, you said Garmin suggested that the radio might be the 
problem. Until you remove it from the circuit and observe that the 
display still locks up without it being present, then you  do not know 
if they are correct or not. Conjecture and assumptions will likely not 
fix the problem. :-)


Bill Bina



On 5/23/2017 9:01 AM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:
I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a 
schematic of everything on it and they have not suggested changes.


I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display 
right next (T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the 
GMI 20 works flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between 
the T's. Garmin cannot explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 
continues flawlessly.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.

John



On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



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Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Prism polish is specifically stated by the manufacturer to be safe for 
plexiglass.


"Prism Polish has been formulated to clean, polish and protect all 
metals in one application. Our protective coating is designed to last 3 
to 6 months. Prism Polish contains no harsh acids, caustics or 
abrasives; it’s safe on all metals, fiberglass, Gel-Coat, Plexiglass and 
painted surfaces. Prism Polish has been developed for use in the marine, 
aviation, automotive, motorcycle and maintenance industries. Use Prism 
Polish on bronze, brass, copper, stainless steel, chrome, aluminum, 
pewter, nickel, sterling silver, silver plate and factory blued guns. 
Test plated metals in an inconspicuous area before use. Prism Polish is 
excellent to clean and deoxidize fiberglass; it removes cloudiness from 
plexiglass, clean vinyl, eisenglass or lexan."


Bill Bina


On 5/12/2017 7:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


FYI:

I got some Prism polish for my stainless steel grill. One of my old 
cars has foggy headlights that nothing seemed to fix, so I figured 
nothing to lose and the Prism stuff did GREAT on the headlights.


(also did great on the grill)

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*BillBinaList via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, May 12, 2017 5:47 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* BillBinaList 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home 
test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...


Just be aware that any scratch Resistance and UV protective coatings 
will be removed. Maybe try just the plastic headlight polish by itself 
first. That may be enough for a decent improvement. I would also 
caution against using any compound that is not specifically for 
plastic. Automotive compounds and waxes have petroleum solvents that 
will attack plastic in a way that cannot be fixed.


Bill Bina

On 5/11/2017 10:01 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that
look fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.
After reading here and other places about potential ways of curing
the issue, I ran a test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat,
and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting with 360
wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until
it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then
went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for
headlights.

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone
here cautions me otherwise.

What say you wise folks?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 




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Re: Stus-List Best-est wax or other protectant

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Since you mention non-skid, I think you may be conflating "topsides", 
with the deck. Topsides are the area from the waterline up to the 
rubrail. :-)


Bill Bina


On 4/13/2017 2:01 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:
Spent some real quality boat time last week...using 1000 grit wet 
sandpaper to de-oxidize my topsides (where there is no non-skid).  The 
process was sand...buff with buffer/oxidation remover...seal with 
teflon polish...and seal/shine with wax.  (Then a couple beers for the 
laborer...me!)


Given the time/effort/exertion factor of this,  I want to know what 
the gang nominates as the very best, excellent wax or sealer for 
topsides? I don't want to do this again.   I understand this is a 
topic filled with past horrors and unfounded attribution...but what 
the hell.  So what's your nomination for best uv inhibiting, 
oxidize-busting shine-keeper for the topsides?

*
*
*
*
*Chuck Saur*

(517)-490-5926





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Re: Stus-List Spreader halyards 37+

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Some work better than others, but to be sure, many of them work well 
enough to be more than worth having. The very simple and relatively 
inexpensive Davis works. That is a scientific fact, and not some 
magazine writer's opinion. Nothing is a guarantee, but look closely at 
modern navaids and you will see that they have a structure on top that 
looks somewhat like the design of the Davis. NOAA apparently thinks they 
are worth having. This is on steel navaids which RADAR can see pretty 
well anyway, but the additional reflector on top makes their return look 
bigger and stronger to RADAR. The fact that as the boat sways and bobs 
the reflector may be more and less effective momentarily does not take 
away from the fact that you are seen at all. Sailboats are weak targets, 
and any enhancement is worth having, no matter how imperfect.


Bill Bina


On 4/7/2017 8:53 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Marek- that is the one I saved. Very comprehensive.  There are some 
others out there as well if you google radar reflector review.  Dave


On Apr 6, 2017, at 8:07 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Yachting Monthly had a review a few years back (2005?). The review is 
freely available off the Internet 
(http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/archive/how-well-does-your-radar-reflector-work-2874).
I am not sure if this is the one Dave meant. Regardless, it is worth 
a look.

Marek



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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Not aimed at anyone in particular: All plans and equipment are 
completely worthless without regular testing and practice. What you 
think is being prepared may be a fantasy that will lead to a 
well-planned failure. You need to find out by at least trying and using 
everything while conditions are mild, and you are not injured. You may 
shock yourself. Can you reach into that pocket with whichever hand was 
not crushed? Can you really find someone that has fallen overboard? Can 
you get back on the boat while it is moving? Don't kid yourself. Find 
out! The real statistics for surviving a fall overboard are very grim. 
Anecdotes are not data.


Bill Bina


On 3/30/2017 8:44 AM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
My spinlock deck vest has a tethered cutter in a dedicated pocket as 
standard equipment.  Hopefully one would remember it in a panic.


My salus coastal life jacket has big pockets that contain a tethered 
folding knife, and a small flashlight.


Both are quite well designed imo.

Dave.






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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have a separate dedicated chest harness that I wear under my PFD. One 
critical test is to make sure that you can release your tether with 
either hand while your entire weight is suspended by the tether. You 
never know which hand will be functional during, or after a mishap. When 
weather is up, I wear a foam jetski type vest, rather than an 
inflatable, as it protects your ribs if you get thrown against something.


Bill Bina


On 3/27/2017 12:04 PM, Graham Young via CnC-List wrote:
I'm looking for advice on some safety gear.  I plan to purchase jack 
lines and tethers and I'm looking for input from listers on your 
experiences with various types, brands, etc. and any other helpful 
advice.  My inflatable life jacket has a d ring attachment, but is it 
better to use an harness anyway? Make no difference?


Thanks,


Graham Young
S/V Spellbound
1981 C 32
Cleveland, Ohio


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Re: Stus-List Best source for Butyl Sealer?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Google: bed-it butyl tape

Bed-it is the only brand specifically formulated for marine use. Most 
people get it from a website on pbase.com, but a few stores, such as 
Hamilton Marine also carry it.


http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Bill Bina


On 3/21/2017 8:14 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I am a big fan of butyl sealant tape on deck hardware as many of you have said 
in the past.  Yet, there are many formulations, some of which work better than 
others for our applications.

Which one do you swear by, and can you please post a link?

Thanks!!!

1994 C 37/40+
Astralis

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

__




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Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Yamaha outboard motors are manufactured at four production bases: the 
Fukuroi South Factory (Fukuroi City, Shizuoka Prefecture) and group 
company Yamaha Kumamoto Products Co., Ltd. (Yatsushiro City, Kumamoto 
Prefecture) in Japan, MBK Industrie in France and Yamaha Motor da 
Amazonia Ltda. (YMDA) in Brazil.


All Honda outboards are manufactured in Japan.

Smaller Tohatsu outboards (also sold as various "American" brands) are 
manufactured in Japan, and larger ones are built for Tohatsu by Honda in 
Japan.


Bill Bina


On 3/13/2017 1:39 PM, johnr via CnC-List wrote:
I see this has degenerated into a useless conversation. I was hoping 
some of you had experience with this engine or knew of some who have. 
 No help there.  BTW - most of American outboard engines are now being 
made in Asia - largely China.


As for two strokes, you can make nasty remarks about California all 
you want.  The universal opinion in boat clubs up and down the Hudson 
is that we are moving away from them and with good reason.  We have 
cleaned up one of America's great rivers and we intend to keep it that 
way.


John McLaughlin
C 29-2
Falcon


-Original Message-
From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: svpegasus38 
Sent: Mon, Mar 13, 2017 1:21 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

Reading the posts here. I am beginning to see a pattern. I think the 
problem is California. Get rid of California and the problem goes away.




Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus
Lf38

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 3/13/17 10:03 (GMT-08:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

I think there are too many variables to make blanket declarations.

How long before campfires and grilling out get declared as being more 
environmentally hazardous than all the cars in California?  What about 
exhaling CO2 Stop breathing?


The biggest problem with 2-cycle engines is that they discharge oil in 
their exhaust.  That oil has been engineered to break down in the 
environment.  Modern companies are engineering 2-cycle oils to provide 
better lubrication at lower concentrations.  Amsoil makes marine and 
regular 2-cycle oil which they recommend at 100:1 in ALL engines.  Its 
almost hard to believe.  I use it and the nice thing is that you 
really don't smell the 2-cycle exhaust which is so expected.  There's 
no blue cloud when I use my outboard or any of my yard tools.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 13, 2017 8:45 AM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


There was a discussion on NPR last week about how 2 cycle leaf
blowers produce more pollution in California than all the cars!
Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Jim Watts
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, March 12, 2017 9:48 PM
*To:* 1 CnC List
*Cc:* Jim Watts
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor
Is Hidea the plural of Hideous?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 8 March 2017 at 16:50, johnr via CnC-List
> wrote:
Just a quick observation.  Those of us here on the Hudson have
pretty much abandoned 2 stroke motors from environmental concerns.
Cheers,
John McL
C
Falcon

-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List >
To: cnc-list >
Cc: David >
Sent: Wed, Mar 8, 2017 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor
Buy a used 2 stroke Tohatsu or Nissan. Never look back.
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650  (cell)

*From:*CnC-List > on behalf of johnr via
CnC-List >
*Sent:* Wednesday, March 8, 2017 2:11 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* johnr
*Subject:* Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor
Do any of you have experience or information on the new Chinese
made Hidea Outboard Motors? Some members of my club are
considering them for use on RIB's and other small boats.
John McLaughlin
C 29-2
Falcon
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Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

1.6 out of 5 stars on Amazon.


On 3/8/2017 2:11 PM, johnr via CnC-List wrote:

Hidea Outboard


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Re: Stus-List iPad Navigation

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred. I know that. I do not believe that was what was being used 
on this old wooden boat, which had a laundry list of rather important 
things that were either not present or not operational. It should never 
have left the dock.


Bill Bina


On 3/3/2017 8:05 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Bill — if you have an onboard WiFi router and get the AIS data to that 
from an AIS receiver or VHF, that’s another way to get AIS data to 
your iPad or tablet (rather than shore stations).


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 3, 2017, at 4:36 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I, too believe that is why losing his wifi connection would have 
mattered. However, using AIS apps on a tablet or phone means you are 
using land based AIS information, which is usually delayed by 20 
minutes or so, and does not show all vessels with AIS transmitters. 
Land based AIS data is gathered by volunteers and stations frequently 
go offline. It is not a substitute for a real AIS receiver onboard 
getting direct AIS information from nearby vessels directly.


Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Putting anything on top of Cetol sort of defeats its main advantage. 
Cetol breathes, which is beneficial to the wood, and maintenance is easy 
because a quick scrub with plain water and a 3M kitchen scrubby is all 
the prep work usually required to add a fresh coat or two when needed. 
The slight softness is a PLUS. If you top coat it, you lose all of 
that.and may as well just do labor intensive varnish without the Cetol.


Bill Bina


On 3/2/2017 9:46 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:
Our boatyard manager (graduate of Great Lakes School of Wooden 
Boatbuilding) told me Cetol should be coated with at least 2 coats of 
Captain's Varnish (or similar?).  Says Cetol finish by itself is too 
soft for his liking.  Has worked great for me...

*
*
*
*
*Chuck Saur*


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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

One popular technique in the tropics is to fill and seal the grain using 
epoxy and then painting the wood with Sears Weatherbeater house paint or 
similar, of a "woody color". This holds up for a very long time under 
the unrelenting tropical sun, and since the paint will not have touched 
the wood or penetrated the grain, it can be easily undone if a future 
owner wants the varnished look (and endless labor) back.


Bill Bina


On 3/1/2017 9:20 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

Randy,
I have been using Cetol for years on the Great Lakes, and so 
applied it last winter to the much neglected teak on my Florida project boat. 
One summer of southern sunshine (and one hurricane) and it needs it another 
coat. I will take a little more care this year and put more on. One thing that 
has not been mentioned is that the original orange Cetol is orange because it 
contains iron oxide as a UV protectant.

Steve Thomas
C 1980
Merritt Island, FL



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Re: Stus-List Bottom Painting -- Anyone Spray?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Not a good idea. Bottom paint should be thinned as little as possible 
and never by more than 10%. Too much thinner changes the structure of 
the paint when it dries and cures, which is critical to how it works. 
Not thinning it at all is optimum, but most thin it SLIGHTLY to make it 
easier to roll on.


Bill BIna


On 2/23/2017 1:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

I’m considering the idea of spray-painting my bottom paint this season 
with my usual Petit Vivid bottom paint (I know a thinner is needed to 
apply).


Has anyone done this? I’m looking to see some time and energy, but am 
concerned about wasting paint, accidentally painting the topsides, or 
painting someone else’s boat or nearby car.


Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. It’s 67 
degrees in New York right now and I’m getting the itch.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




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Re: Stus-List Metal sextant

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The link I gave for landfall is for used ones on consignment.

Bill Bina


On 2/8/2017 11:14 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List wrote:

Thank you…looking for a used one so I’’ll try bay…thank you so much!
On Feb 8, 2017, at 10:46 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


<http://www.landfallnavigation.com/consignment.html>

<http://www.ebay.com/bhp/marine-sextant>

<http://www.ebay.com/bhp/navigation-sextant>


Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Metal sextant

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bill Bina




On 2/8/2017 7:34 AM, Liz Mather via CnC-List wrote:

Just wondering if anyone has or knows of someone that would like to sell their 
sextant and would be interested in shipping to Canada?
Thank you!

Mistral V


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Read the instructions! This is how most of the world, including your 
local battery dealer, load tests batteries. LOL


Bill Bina


On 2/7/2017 2:06 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:


I have one of those. It draws 5 times the current desired AND would 
likely catch on fire or burn something up if left on for long. It is a 
1200 watt heater with no fan!


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, February 07, 2017 12:07
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery test

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

Bill Bina

On 2/7/2017 11:54 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:

Dave,

If you used a resistor, you’d need 0.6 ohms at least 240 watts. 
Probably not practical.  You could put a load on your batteries by

turning on most of your lights, cabin fans and other loads.

Ron

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *David Knecht via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 7, 2017 11:32 AM
*To:* CnC CnC discussion list
*Cc:* David Knecht
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery test

I have been following this discussion and would like to do this
for my batteries.  Can you suggest what would be an
easy/appropriate ~20A load generating device?  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

cid:image001.png@01D28138.02844420

.



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Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

Bill Bina


On 2/7/2017 11:54 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:


Dave,

If you used a resistor, you’d need 0.6 ohms at least 240 watts.  
Probably not practical.  You could put a load on your batteries by 
turning on most of your lights, cabin fans and other loads.


Ron

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*David Knecht via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, February 7, 2017 11:32 AM
*To:* CnC CnC discussion list
*Cc:* David Knecht
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery test

I have been following this discussion and would like to do this for my 
batteries.  Can you suggest what would be an easy/appropriate ~20A 
load generating device?  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

cid:image001.png@01D28138.02844420



.
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Yep. I forgot to mention that when I say battery box, I mean one that 
includes a tie-down to keep batteries from moving. My AGM


's are not going anywhere unless I allow them to. :-)

Bill Bina


On 1/27/2017 9:37 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


I had a wet battery not in a box split open in a hurricane and dump 
the acid in the bilge, which then also got into a locker where our 
canned food was.

We were both hungry and lacking power L

So the acid thing has stuck with me…

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, January 27, 2017 9:01 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

A box is still recommended for all batteries to keep things from 
contacting the posts, or bridging them.


Bill Bina

On 1/27/2017 8:52 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:

That was why I was thinking of wet cell golf carts – they are SO
much cheaper than anything else. A gel 4D fits my spot perfectly
and doesn’t need a box (gel and agm don’t leak), but it is like
$700 for 190 AH vs. about $160 for 2 golf carts.

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>



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Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

A box is still recommended for all batteries to keep things from 
contacting the posts, or bridging them.


Bill Bina


On 1/27/2017 8:52 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


That was why I was thinking of wet cell golf carts – they are SO much 
cheaper than anything else. A gel 4D fits my spot perfectly and 
doesn’t need a box (gel and agm don’t leak), but it is like $700 for 
190 AH vs. about $160 for 2 golf carts.


Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 




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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Disregard my last post. The Zep Purple degreaser is flammable. I 
confused it with this non-flammable degreaser:




Bill Bina


On 1/17/2017 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for 
service (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the 
bolts had fused to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB 
Blaster, vinegar and acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got 
them off.


The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable 
solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and 
kerosene are out.


Joel





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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bill Bina



On 1/17/2017 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for 
service (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the 
bolts had fused to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB 
Blaster, vinegar and acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got 
them off.


The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable 
solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and 
kerosene are out.


Joel



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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

In the world of science and mathematics, anecdotes are not not 
considered data, and data is not knowledge. Believe what you like. :-)


Bill Bina

On 12/1/2016 9:57 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Not sure I agree. I have never seen solar panels sold at suboptimal 
power points.


I grabbed one random model from the Miami Electrical site someone 
mentioned and it is no different:


http://www.suniva.com/documents/OPTXXX-60-4-100%2008%2009%2012.pdf

Max power is 250 watts at 29.6 volts, and max current is 8.44 amps.

If you want 250 watts out of it, you need a MPPT controller to 
translate 29.6 volts into whatever you need.


The Renogy is the exact same, it  gets max power at 18.5 volts and you 
need a MPPT controller to translate into what you need.


Are you implying the Suniva panel actually puts out MORE than 250 
watts but they are not telling you that for some reason? Their own 
document states MAX POWER. It would be a bit odd to say the least if 
250 watt panels were really 300+ watt panels with the right controller.


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, December 01, 2016 09:28
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

Ohms law supercedes marketing fluff and folklore. Renogy is not as 
forthcoming as many of it's competitors. No, all panels are not sold 
to the same standards as Renogy. Can a car manufacturer claim 30 miles 
per gallon, based on mileage attained without the car's interior 
installed, and tires inflated to 100 psi?


Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Ohms law supercedes marketing fluff and folklore. Renogy is not as 
forthcoming as many of it's competitors. No, all panels are not sold to 
the same standards as Renogy. Can a car manufacturer claim 30 miles per 
gallon, based on mileage attained without the car's interior installed, 
and tires inflated to 100 psi?


Bill Bina


On 12/1/2016 9:13 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


That is ALL panels. NONE of them provide full power at 12 volts. If 
you want to see 50 watts, you need a MPPT controller that is 
essentially a DC-DC converter. Running my cheaper PWM controller I 
never get the full 50.


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Josh Muckley via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, December 01, 2016 09:06
*To:* C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

Clearly renogy is providing nominal values for marketing purposes.  
You can't fit all of the specs in the amazon headline.


Josh

On Dec 1, 2016 7:54 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Renogy is not very honest about output. 50 watts at 12 volts is
fuzzy math for this panel, whose output is really almost 19 volts.
Output should be stated at the working output voltage. That is
more like a 30 watt panel when comparing to other brands whose
quality factor includes truth. :-)

Bill Bina

On 12/1/2016 8:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

This is mine:


https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1480598077=8-1=50+watt+solar+panel

50 watts - $80. I have had no issues at all with it.

Joe

Coquina




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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

As I said, other companies manage to do it. Renology wants you to think 
their prices are better than they really are. Fifty watts for eighty 
dollars? This panel is really 30 watts for 80 dollars if you are 
comparison shopping. Renogy's competitors would advertise this as a 30 
watt panel. You don't need any more room in the headline. :-)


Bill Bina


On 12/1/2016 9:05 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Clearly renogy is providing nominal values for marketing purposes.  
You can't fit all of the specs in the amazon headline.


Josh

On Dec 1, 2016 7:54 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Renogy is not very honest about output. 50 watts at 12 volts is
fuzzy math for this panel, whose output is really almost 19 volts.
Output should be stated at the working output voltage. That is
more like a 30 watt panel when comparing to other brands whose
quality factor includes truth. =-O

Bill Bina


On 12/1/2016 8:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


This is mine:


https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1480598077=8-1=50+watt+solar+panel

<https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1480598077=8-1=50+watt+solar+panel>

50 watts - $80. I have had no issues at all with it.

Joe

Coquina




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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Renogy is not very honest about output. 50 watts at 12 volts is fuzzy 
math for this panel, whose output is really almost 19 volts. Output 
should be stated at the working output voltage. That is more like a 30 
watt panel when comparing to other brands whose quality factor includes 
truth. =-O


Bill Bina


On 12/1/2016 8:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


This is mine:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1480598077=8-1=50+watt+solar+panel

50 watts - $80. I have had no issues at all with it.

Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Mine is from Raymarine and it is removable for cleaning while the boat 
is in the water. I keep the dummy plug in the thruhull except when I 
need to use the speed instrument. Takes a couple minutes to swap out, 
but not a big deal. My old one was a 1986 Standard Horizon that was 
still working when I replaced all of my instruments a couple years ago. 
You can use a water based antifouling paint on it if you wish, but I 
don't bother.


Bill Bina


On 11/30/2016 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument 
eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting 
gunked up and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one 
instrument and two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly 
and the other one died just now LThey were all new in box too.


I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there 
a modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton 
of them back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.


Joe

Coquina



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Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Toughbooks are widely used by police, fire, military, and construction 
personnel, specifically because they can be dropped, splashed, and 
viewed in direct sunlight outdoors. If someone has trouble seeing a 
Toughbook outdoors, it is either broken, a counterfeit, or had the wrong 
display installed as a repair.


Bill Bina

On 11/22/2016 9:09 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Some Toughbooks have transreflective screens and/or very bright 
backlights.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Black-Panasonic-Toughbook-CF-30-Touchscreen-GPS-160GB-DVDCDRW-Extras-/322332887225?hash=item4b0c8988b9:g:vLcAAOSw7XZXiAve

This one has a 1000 NIT screen (very bright) and built in GPS.

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, November 21, 2016 23:08
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt desktop computer

You hardly ever need 90 W; that is for charging the battery _/and/_ 
running the computer. Most of the time you should be fine with about 
20 W (this is what I measured on a number of occasions when I really 
wanted to know), but this is still double what your Pi 3 draws.


If you are into that old laptops, you can easily have a Toughbook for 
about $300 (or even less). Btw. Toughbooks, at least the ones I used 
in the past, had terrible screens. If you complain about iPads in the 
sun, forget about the Toughbook. You should have a nicely dimmed room 
to be able to read the screen correctly. But they had the touch screen 
for decades.


Marek




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Re: Stus-List Awesome C race boat on eBay

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Maybe if you drop one off the Travel Lift. :-)

Bill Bina


On 11/15/2016 12:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Any of them do 12 knots?

Dennis C.

On Tue, Nov 15, 2016 at 10:10 AM, Steven Tattrie via CnC-List 
> wrote:


The redwings make good club racers, I race against 2 on a regular
basis and have crewed on one a couple years for Wednesday races.
lots of fun to sail on. I would say they sail to their PHRF rating
(maybe better at times) and as Mike H says are a bitch to beat! 
If you could see our club champion trophy you would understand.


In addition to their classic design, I like the large cockpit and
most of all like the long tiller handle that allows you to duck
under the dodger in foul weather.

cheers

steve
C 30 mk1




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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

There is a special yellow teflon tape that is /supposed/ to be okay for 
gasoline, but I don't know of any form that is safe for diesel.


Bill Bina


On 11/10/2016 3:26 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:


I have never heard that. What I do know is if you are not VERY VERY 
careful pieces of tape end up in the fuel system.


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, November 10, 2016 3:24 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

Also remember NEVER use teflon tape on fuel lines for any reason. It 
dissolves.


Bill Bina

On 11/10/2016 3:16 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Josh,

 I agree with both conclusions.

Gary

S/V Kaylarah


~~~_/)~~

On Thu, Nov 10, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had never looked before yesterday but was able to quickly
find electronic gage senders.  You wouldn't need to plumb a
gage all the way to the gage board, just wires.

Also remember that the Teflon tape or pipe dope isn't to make
a seal it is to lubricate the threads so that they can screw
together tightly enough to become leak tight.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 4, 2016 9:44 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am concerned about connecting a gauge directly to the
engine for fear that the vibration could cause a
catastrophic failure of the gauge or connection and a loss
of oil pressure.

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~

On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 7:43 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

First, I checked out Mike’s link and Persistence is a
sharp looking boat.  I’m partial to the color as
Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot stripe and
gold cove stripe. Patriot also caught a line around
the shaft resulting in multiple B.O.A.T. units to
straighten the strut and replace the shaft.

I’ve been considering adding a the ability to read oil
pressure by adding the appropriate transducer and NMEA
2000 interface.  To me, the existing pressure switch
setup is not necessarily ‘fail-safe’.  Probably the
most difficult thing will be to find an appropriate
tee (Japanese threads).  I wonder if any other lister
has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?

Thanks to all listers for your feedback,

/Ron/

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369 <tel:%28978%29%20877-0369>

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com>

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of
*Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you
know what the pressure really is.  The alarm is like
the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds there is
likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely
assume all is good.  I once had a car where the bulb
for the engine light was burned out.

To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil
pressure sender.  Then you Tee that and put sender on
one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in doubt you
just take a quick look at the gauge.

I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence
website.   You can see the picture in the gallery link
here
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm
<http://users.eastlink.ca/%7Emhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm>

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
<http://users.eastlink.ca/%7Emhoyt>


_

Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Also remember NEVER use teflon tape on fuel lines for any reason. It 
dissolves.


Bill Bina


On 11/10/2016 3:16 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Josh,
 I agree with both conclusions.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Nov 10, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I had never looked before yesterday but was able to quickly find
electronic gage senders.  You wouldn't need to plumb a gage all
the way to the gage board, just wires.

Also remember that the Teflon tape or pipe dope isn't to make a
seal it is to lubricate the threads so that they can screw
together tightly enough to become leak tight.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Nov 4, 2016 9:44 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
> wrote:

I am concerned about connecting a gauge directly to the engine
for fear that the vibration could cause a catastrophic failure
of the gauge or connection and a loss of oil pressure.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 7:43 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List
> wrote:

First, I checked out Mike’s link and Persistence is a
sharp looking boat. I’m partial to the color as Patriot is
also dark blue with a red boot stripe and gold cove
stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft
resulting in multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the
strut and replace the shaft.

I’ve been considering adding a the ability to read oil
pressure by adding the appropriate transducer and NMEA
2000 interface.  To me, the existing pressure switch setup
is not necessarily ‘fail-safe’.  Probably the most
difficult thing will be to find an appropriate tee
(Japanese threads).  I wonder if any other lister has
found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?

Thanks to all listers for your feedback,

/Ron/

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369 

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com 

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of
*Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know
what the pressure really is.  The alarm is like the idiot
light on your car ... if it sounds there is likely a
problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is
good.  I once had a car where the bulb for the engine
light was burned out.

To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil
pressure sender.  Then you Tee that and put sender on one
side of tee and gauge on other.  When in doubt you just
take a quick look at the gauge.

I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence
website.   You can see the picture in the gallery link
here
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm


Mike

Persistence

Halifax

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The big issue with plywood coring is that it can wick water long 
distances from where it enters the core. End grain balsa coring does not 
have that capability.


Bill Bina


On 11/10/2016 8:26 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:

Rob Massa, thanks very much for your response.  From my research, I believe the 
Morgan 382 is plywood.  I assume that the properties of plywood would be 
similar to balsa, but I am not sure.  Since I don't own the boat yet, I can't 
go digging around in her deck to see if it's rotted.

I'm still waiting on my survey (the surveyor will give me the moisture 
readings), so I will likely have to make a decision based on those.


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Important note gleaned from personal experience. UPS will not accept any 
packaging with a wood surface. That means that if you roll up your 
rigging, you cannot pack it between two sheets of luan plywood. Has to 
be cardboard, or else go by LTL motor freight, which may have it's own 
rules.


Bill Bina


On 11/3/2016 11:14 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Shipping the rod may not be practical but it is possible if necessary.

Rod can be 'rolled' into a circle whose diameter depends on the rod 
diameter--IIRC for my 36 XL, I think the yard rolled it into about a 
6' diameter circle before it was securely tied up and shipped via UPS 
or FedEx to Florida to have one of my stays re-headed.


This is likely not a one-person job however!

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com



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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Titebond III is water based for easy cleanup, and is waterproof when 
cured. You could also use epoxy as long as the joint will not be exposed 
to sunlight.


Bill Bina



On 11/1/2016 12:14 PM, Steve Staten via CnC-List wrote:


Good Morning, Everyone. I’m not a sailor but I own a boat and 
impersonate a sailor on rare occasions. I have a problem with my 
wooden cockpit grating. If it has a nautical name, I’m unaware. A few 
of the runners that keep the grating up and out of the water have come 
loose. They were glued on so I used Elmer’s Wood Glue to re-glue them, 
thinking that would be the end of the matter. After a half-hour of 
actual use, I was a wiser, sadder man. Is there a better glue that you 
can recommend? I would surely appreciate it.


Steve Staten

“C’est La Vie”

26’ C

Langley, OK, USA



.
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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

*6. When must AIS be in operation?* Vessels equipped with AIS (either by 
mandatory carriage or voluntarily) must abide by the requirements set 
forth in 33 CFR 164.46(d) 
 and 
should especially ensure their AIS is in properly installed, using an 
assigned MMSI, and, that its data is accessible from the primary conning 
position of the vessel. Also, that it be in 'effective operating 
condition', which entails the continuous operation of AIS and the 
accurate input and upkeep of all AIS data parameters (see USCG AIS 
Encoding Guide ) during 
all times that the vessel is navigating (underway or at anchor), and, at 
least 15 minutes prior to unmooring, in U.S. navigable waters (as 
defined in 33 CFR 2.36 
). 
Should continual operation of AIS compromise the safety or security of 
the vessel or where a security incident is imminent, the AIS may be 
switched off. This action and the reason for taking it must be reported 
to the nearest U.S. Captain of the Port 
 
or Vessel Traffic Center 
 
and recorded in the ship's logbook. The AIS should return to continuous 
operation as soon as the source of danger has been mitigated.


Bill Bina


On 10/27/2016 3:07 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Your friend can turn off the transmitter either through software or a 
physical switch.  Commercial vessels will see you on radar, but with 
AIS they can hail you by name.  Other boaters with AIS can see you if 
you are transmitting.  Sometimes it nice to be able to see a buddy on 
AIS and hail them.


Joel

On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 3:00 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I sail out of Whitby, Near Toronto, North shore of lake ON.  North
shore is Canada, south shore is USA, upstate NY.  For boaters on
both sides, the 35nm crossing is a routine weekend cruise,
probably been like this for 100 years or more.

A neighbour at my marina installed an AIS transmitter and now gets
regularly stopped by the US coastguard when the US shore is
approached, the AIS presumably identifying his CS36 as a foreign
invader and potential threat to national security.

I'll stay stealthy I think... ;-)

Dave



Message: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2016 15:00:44 +
From: Josh Muckley >
To: "C List" >
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF
Message-ID:
   
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It looks like the HS-35 is the wireless handset for the RS-35?  It
looks
like a nice setup.

Do you think that having the AIS transmit is that important?  What
have
mariners been doing for thousands of years?  Sometimes all this
automation
seems to make us let aware and more careless. Auto-helms that drive
straight into navaids.  Volvo Ocean racers that run across well marked
reefs.  I foresee small boats getting run over by big boats
because they
thought the big boat would see their AIS.

I read and article (IIRC - BoatUS) years ago about proposed
legislation
which would mandate any boat equipped with AIS to have it on and
transmitting.  You know for our own safety.  I don't mind the
ability to
transmit my location but the proposition of a mandate is enough to
keep me
from buying.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2010/12/class_b_ais_filtering_the_word_from_dr_norris.html


On 10/27/2016 12:47 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


IMHO – if you REALLY don’t want to get run over, get Class A.

I keep hearing filtering Class B is not a thing and then someone else 
will tell me they have seen it done.


Joe

Coquina



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Re: Stus-List Ever jumped into the world of bungee cord?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

When I needed some shock cord, I went to Defender and discovered they 
had two brands of cord at two quite different prices. The rigger on duty 
assured me that they were both about the same when new, but the more 
expensive one would still be performing long after the cheap stuff 
failed. The cheaper stuff looked just like the 2 year old stuff I was 
replacing. The good stuff is still snappy 6 years later and shows no 
signs of weakening.


Bill Bina


On 10/25/2016 7:46 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Looking to buy some hog ring pliers, rings and bulk shock cord to sort 
a few things.  Am assuming that as in life, there is good and bad in 
bungee, and that probably someone here knows all about it.
Need to repair my spinnaker pole, and also rig some custom-length 
shock cords on various other items.   Seems like handy stuff and tools 
to have around.  My web search skills have so far failed me.
Any suggestions as to sources, (I know sailrite, amazon) and how to 
discern good from bad quality?


Thanks!

Dave




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Re: Stus-List yanmar diesel

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Exhaust elbow clear? That can cause hard starting and gets progressively 
worse over time.


Bill Bina


On 10/6/2016 7:47 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
Cold isn't my issue, this has been an ever increasing issue throughout 
the year.  I'm also suspecting fuel that's gone well past its shelf 
life.  Replacing the fuel and cleaning the tank is next. It's been 8 
years since I did it last and aside from topping up the tank in the 
fall with a gallon or two, I really haven't had a good clean fuel 
cycling.  I've probably only put 20 hours of run time on my engine 
since I got it!


Brent
s/v Wild Rover
27-5



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Re: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Sealing keelbolts or filling the holes with anyting is more likely to 
accelerate crevice corrosion. Any attempts to protect keelbolts needs to 
center around keeping them bone dry. You sure do not want to seal in, or 
encapsulate any moisture!


Bill Bina


On 9/26/2016 11:09 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:


Wow! My boat had this but nowhere near as pronounced.  It shows itself 
as a pink “ooze” coming out of a couple of minor blisters below the 
keel-hull joint.  I have been putting about 3 gallons of antifreeze in 
the bilge each winter to prevent any water that gets in the bilge from 
freezing, hence the pink color.  Hopefully adding the antifreeze has 
prevented the problem from getting worse.


I do intend to undo the keel bolt nuts, seal around the keel bolts 
with butyl rubber and torque the bolts.  Anyone have any thoughts on this?


Regards,

/Ron/

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Dave S via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2016 9:10 AM
*To:* C Stus List
*Cc:* Dave S
*Subject:* Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion 
surrounding issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   
Been meaning to post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:


http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/

Dave 33-2 Windstar



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

A little tip: To make a cheap solar LED lawn light far more visible, use 
spray paint to put a light coating of white paint on the inside of the 
lens to make it "frosted". Makes quite a difference.


Bill Bina


On 9/19/2016 12:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


90% of boats on moorings anyplace I have ever been unlit if no one is 
aboard. That number is changing now that people can get solar LED lawn 
lights for $5.


Joe

Coquina

I use cheap solar lights when I leave my boat on the mooring.

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, September 19, 2016 12:10
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

A mooring is considered a permanent fixture, like a dock. An anchor is 
transient. If in doubt, use your anchor light.


Bill Bina

On 9/19/2016 11:54 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

What about moorings?  How do people keep boats long term in a
mooring field?

Josh

On Sep 19, 2016 5:49 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Anchorages not requiring an anchor light will be marked as
"Special Anchorage" on charts. When someone says "designated
anchorage", they generally mean "designated as special". The
legally important term is "special anchorage".

Bill Bina

On 9/19/2016 11:38 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

I think that's what I mean by "charted", or is there a
different way to designate an anchorage?

Josh



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

A mooring is considered a permanent fixture, like a dock. An anchor is 
transient. If in doubt, use your anchor light.


Bill Bina


On 9/19/2016 11:54 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


What about moorings?  How do people keep boats long term in a mooring 
field?


Josh


On Sep 19, 2016 5:49 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Anchorages not requiring an anchor light will be marked as
"Special Anchorage" on charts. When someone says "designated
anchorage", they generally mean "designated as special". The
legally important term is "special anchorage".

Bill Bina


On 9/19/2016 11:38 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I think that's what I mean by "charted", or is there a different
way to designate an anchorage?

Josh




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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Anchorages not requiring an anchor light will be marked as "Special 
Anchorage" on charts. When someone says "designated anchorage", they 
generally mean "designated as special". The legally important term is 
"special anchorage".


Bill Bina


On 9/19/2016 11:38 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I think that's what I mean by "charted", or is there a different way 
to designate an anchorage?


Josh


On Sep 19, 2016 1:11 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


If I am not mistaken, only on “designated anchorages” (and then
you don’t need the light either)

Marek




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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It is not that important, as it really is no bother to display an anchor 
light. I always do, whether required or not. The original discussion was 
started by someone who had found, and was in, a special anchorage and 
was incorrectly told that he was required to display an anchor light. It 
was a good suggestion, but not a legal requirement in that specific 
case. I wouldn't waste time worrying about whether an anchorage is 
"special" or not. It is not really much of a bonus.


Bill Bina


On 9/14/2016 10:48 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


Must be nice to be in an area that has them.

Coast Pilot 4 (Cape Henry to Key West) lists only 6:

Simons Island, GA

Ashley River, SC (Charleston area)

St. Johns River, FL

2 in the Indian River, FL

Okeechobee Waterway, Stuart, FL

The closest thing we have in NC is at Lockwoods Folly Inlet, but that 
is reserved for military and other vessels carrying up to 8000 tons of 
explosives. And there is an anchorage area off Beaufort NC for cargo 
vessels awaiting space in the state port in Morehead City, NC.


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*BillBinaList via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, September 14, 2016 5:47 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* BillBinaList 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

I anchor in special anchorages frequently. They are clearly marked as 
such on charts. They are plentiful in my home sailing area, and many 
of them would not be suitable for anything large or commercial, as 
they are often no more than about 6-12 feet deep. I refer you to US 
Chart 13205 as an example. Maybe you just sail in an area that is not 
as accommodating to recreation. Regardless, if a Coastie told you you 
needed an anchor light in one of those many special anchorages, as the 
poster said he was told, they were wrong. There is no regulation 
saying you can't display your anchor light there, and I recommend that 
you do. But, it is not required.:-)


§ 109.10 Special anchorage areas.

An Act of Congress of April 22, 1940, provides for the designation of 
special anchorage areas wherein vessels not more than sixty-five feet 
in length, when at anchor, will not be required to carry or exhibit 
anchorage lights. Such designation is to be made after investigation, 
by rule, regulation, or order, the procedure for which will be similar 
to that followed for anchorage grounds under section 7 of the Rivers 
and Harbors Act of March 4, 1915, as referred to in § 109.05. The 
areas so designated should be well removed from the fairways and 
located where general navigation will not endanger or be endangered by 
unlighted vessels. The authority to designate special anchorage areas 
was transferred to and vested in the Secretary of Homeland Security by 
section 902(j) of the Coast Guard and Maritime Transportation Act of 
2006 (Pub. L. 109-241, 120 Stat 516), and delegated to the Commandant 
of the U.S. Coast Guard in Department of Homeland Security Delegation 
No. 0170.1. The Commandant redelegated the authority to establish 
anchorage grounds to each Coast Guard District Commander as provided 
in 33 CFR 1.05 -1(e)(1)(i).


Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Everything you need to know, spelled out and organized:



Larger vessels are required to have a copy of this onboard at all times. 
Not a bad idea for small vessels to do the same. It is the only 
"opinion" that matters.


Bill Bina


On 9/13/2016 10:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


So what do Colregs say about a foredeck light when under motor?  When 
under sail? On a power boat?


Mike

Persistence

Halifax




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Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I had a household type in line filter with a paper element freeze. After 
it thawed, it would no longer pass anything, including water. The wet 
fibers apparently swelled when they froze, creating a solid barrier.


Bill Bina


On 9/13/2016 9:56 AM, Don Harben via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

I strong suggest NOT allowing any type of filter to freeze once it has 
had water in it.  Holes are created in the filter medium.


I am involved with two land based water purification systems sourcing 
from lake water and one from a cistern.  It has has been an 
interesting learning curve involving filtering and UV treatment 
compared to "Water Makers" using reverse osmosis.


Don




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Re: Stus-List labor day vs Hermine

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bill Bina


On 9/1/2016 9:53 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Thoughts to Paul E.'s LF38 Johanna Rose that is in Carrabelle, FL.  
4-6 foot surge likely there.


Fast forward this to midnight tonight: 
https://www.windyty.com/?29.643,-84.891,9


The Admiral and I are planning to bring Touche' from Pensacola to 
Mandeville this weekend.  Storm should be well gone.  Wind forecast 
isn't bad but it may be rainy. Break out the foulies and go!


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


.
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Re: Stus-List Window Leak

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Polysulfide is not compatible with plastics. It eats them.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/sealant.asp

"However, the solvents in polysulfide sealant attack some plastics, 
causing them to harden and split. Specifically, you must not use 
polysulfide to bed plastic windshields or plastic portlights — either 
acrylic (Plexiglas) or polycarbonate (Lexan). Don't use it to bed 
plastic deck fittings either, including plastic portlight frames. 
Plastic marine fittings are typically ABS or PVC, and polysulfide will 
attack both."



Bill Bina


On 8/30/2016 12:09 PM, evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List wrote:

Polysulfate is the best for lexan.  You can also use butly puddy

 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 08-30-2016 6:58 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Leak

If they are simply screwed in the why not remove screws, clean, apply 
new bedding and reattach using screws?  On j boats of the 80s vintage 
the windows are screwed in and every three or four years if a leak 
detected we removed. Cleaned and resealed with just silicone.  Solved 
the leaking at 20 minutes per window.


Mike

Persistence

Halifax

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, August 29, 2016 7:37 PM
*To:* C
*Cc:* ALAN BERGEN
*Subject:* Stus-List Window Leak

Quick fixes rarely last very long.  However, if it's just till the end 
of the season, try using vinyl tape.  The more screws you have, the 
more problems you'll have.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR


I finally got to looking at the windows again. The screws are about 
12" apart. Ill try tightening but sounds like I may need to add more 
screws.


Thanks,

  Jeremy



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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

That is working properly. :-)

Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 3:21 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected 
through a Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.)


When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the 
batteries at 13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun 
still out, they dropped to 12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less 
sun or the controller kicking in.


Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), 
does this all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 
volts?  Concerned about the battery status, I checked the batteries 
and the water level in all of them were just fine.


Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to 
be and I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — 
if it’s normal, I’m loving it.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Teak can be varnished. Just wipe it down with a clean rag soaked in 
acetone and apply varnish as soon as the acetone dries. You will have 
removed the surface oils. If you wait too long before applying the 
varnish, the oils will resurface.


Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 2:52 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:


Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c 
it releases oils.  But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit 
table?


Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI




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Re: Stus-List Northeast Rendezvous - Mystic Food Festival

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The "parade" really takes place outside the mouth of the river. They 
gather near the Ledge Lighthouse around 12:30 - 1 pm, and go from there. 
It is quite a spectacle. Bring a camera!


Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 9:23 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
If anyone plans to do this, Thames Yacht Club (my home base) has 
transient moorings and dock space.  One would presumably be able to 
watch the parade from the club (although I have never been around for 
this event).  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT


On Aug 28, 2016, at 8:27 PM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Also, especially for those who may be arriving Friday, New London 
Harbor (Thames River) is 5 miles west of the Mystic River. The parade 
on Friday should be a treat. In years past, the parade has exited the 
Thames River and made a large loop out into the Long Island Sound 
before going back in.




The ships: 

Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List Re-stus list. Boat buck

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Easy to remember, as: B.O.A.T. = Break_Out_Another_Thousand :-)

Bill Bina

On 8/26/2016 8:23 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Used to be $100 when we had a c designed paceship p23. Then again 
that was our first boat and I think the boat buck people were trying 
not to scare us off …


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, August 25, 2016 5:33 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Free Girls Sailing
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re-stus list. Boat buck

I think it's still $1000.

On Thursday, August 25, 2016, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
 via CnC-List > wrote:


entire pump--less than 3 boat bucks (~ $270).

Did someone change the value of a boat buck? I thought it was $1000. 
Is this deflation as opposed to inflation?


Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 #4

just west of Ballard, WA.




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Re: Stus-List Dinghy towing length

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Always remember, and NEVER forget: When you are approaching anywhere you 
will be stopping, even briefly, first pull the dinghy up close so you 
don't wrap the painter around your prop. A floating painter is not 100% 
protection from this issue. ;-)


Bill Bina


On 8/10/2016 1:13 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
The recommendation I was given during a CYA training trip was to let 
the painter out one wave length in order to get both the dingy and the 
mother ship on the same part of the wave and reduce jerk loads on the 
painter. That advice presupposes that the waves are somewhat regular. 
I have no idea what the "official" thinking is now, but I see the 
logic behind it, and it worked in the Strait of Georgia and Haro 
Strait which is where we went on that trip.
A friend of mine tried going south from Chester NS along the coast 
with his dingy hauled up tight, the wind picked up, and he was unable 
to secure it in such a way to stop the bashing. The dingy was soon gone.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII



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Re: Stus-List Help me pick next boat

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Just be aware that there are several versions of the 27, and the 27-V is 
a completely different boat than any of the earlier ones. You can find 
out what the different iterations offer on Stu's website. I agree with 
Jerry and Chuck about the 27-V. It is a great boat, and fits your 
request parameters.


Bill Bina


On 8/9/2016 9:56 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks - sounds like the 27 is the overwhelming favorite from this 
impartial crowd :)


Will take a look

John

On Aug 9, 2016, at 9:52 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> wrote:


27-V 4'10" draft but is one of the best sailing boats C made.  I 
have one that may be for sale at end of season.  Very nice condition 
with Yanmar 1G diesel.   Jerry J




-Original Message-
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List >

To: cnc-list >
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest >

Sent: Mon, Aug 8, 2016 10:14 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help me pick next boat

Mk V C 27. Ticks all the boxes and puts money back in your pocket. 
My friend Bill Dingwell bought one after selling his C 40 and still 
kicks butt in local PHRF on Buzzards Bay. Chuck Gilchrest Padanaram, 
MA Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 8, 2016, at 8:09 PM, John Pennie via 
CnC-List


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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding (with Butyl)

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bed-it brand is distinctly not the same as the stuff found elsewhere.

Bill Bina


On 7/14/2016 1:04 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List wrote:
Ok, I'm leaning toward butyl tape now given peoples' 
responses and the and Compass Marine article.  I've followed Compass 
recommendations for other projects (battery cable, battery monitor, 
mooring ball setup) and highly regard that site.


Is there a need for marine grade (Bed-It) butyl tape, or is the stuff 
I can get at glass or RV stores here in Vancouver BC going to be 
okay?  Waiting for delivery of Bed-It will delay my project, but I'd 
rather do it correctly than quickly.



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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I found it helpful to bore a "stanchion diameter" hole through side to 
side in a length of 4x4 post that was clamped to my workbench. That held 
the stanchion securely exactly at the right point without creating any 
new problems while coaxing back to straightness.


Bill Bina


On 7/14/2016 8:25 AM, john.irvin--- via CnC-List wrote:


You,ll find it easier yo straighten them if you apply a little heat.

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10


*From: *Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
*Sent: *July 13, 2016 9:16 PM
*To: *Chris Duer 
*Cc: *Jeremy Ralph ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Subject: *Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

Thanks Chris.  Good to know rot is not a concern.  The stanchion bends 
are subtle and not creased so a vice should be able to straighten.


RE: vertical cracks on stanchion bases.  I'll check this too as you 
recommend, although I'm having trouble picturing this without being on 
the boat with the stanchions in front of me.  I'm sure I'll it will 
become clearer when at the boat.



On Wednesday, July 13, 2016, Chris Duer

Assuming we're not talking about severe enough bends that the
stanchion has a crease, that is a reasonable plan.  There likely
isn't any rot because the deck core terminates before the
stanchions and toe rail.

Check your stanchion bases for vertical cracks on the outboard
side (in line with the set screws).  You may need to replace them,
I did on my 1978 34.

Chris Duer

1978 C 34 #117



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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

As I said, I'm using it outside on hot days. It moves a lot of air, and 
noise doesn't matter much in that application. Inside, I'm using Boras. 
They are very quiet and use less power than the rest of the Caframo line.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 10:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Low speed they are fine, but on high speed – which is what gets used 
on a hot 99% humidity night – they are terrible.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2016 10:21
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding 
hatch to help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)


Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding 
hatch to help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)


Bill Bina



On 6/29/2016 10:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I have two of the Caframo compacts.  On low speed I don't find them 
that noisy.  I added the clip on mount and put 12 vdc receptacles in 
strategic locations so I can put the fans where I want them.  See:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX1dZQ2pQZmlhMkk

Dennis C.



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Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Probably wouldn't hurt to call tech support at the manufacture before 
you go up the mast. They may have some tips for how to do a 
comprehensive evaluation. They might even offer to send you a new unit 
in advance before you go up, with the agreement to send back the 
defective one to avoid being charged. Some manufacturers do that. They 
sell you a new one, and issue a full refund as soon as you send the old 
one back.



On 6/29/2016 9:12 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:
I just reread your post and saw that it's 'built in'.  Looks like a 
trip up the mast.   Thanks.


Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That 
is true even of LED replacement lamps put in the original 
incandescent fixture. It sounds as if your regulator is defective. 
That the light is sometimes dim is the giveaway. The regulator is 
designed (when working properly) to make up for incoming voltage that 
is either lower or higher than required.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I'm using the Caframo Bora model, and they are both extremely low power 
draw, and very quiet.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 9:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of 
the small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a 
heavy load on one side L


Joe

Coquina

NOTE TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 13:00
*To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
*Subject:* Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I bought two new fans and they both are NOISY! WTF? The old ones I was 
replacing because they made too much noise were better despite 
probably having run for 1,000 hours.


I got one of these, CAFRAMO Two-Speed Compact 12V DC Fan and one of 
these, CAFRAMO Sirocco Cabin Fans.


Joe

Coquina



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Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is 
true even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent 
fixture. It sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is 
sometimes dim is the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working 
properly) to make up for incoming voltage that is either lower or higher 
than required.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I completely agree that you should do your best not to hit them, but the 
colregs do not recognize common sense as a legal justification for 
anything. That is true of most of law, on land as well as on sea. You 
are obligated to do as the law says, not as you feel about what it says. 
When someone "does their own thing", it leads to uncertainty, and that 
can lead to problems. Others depend on everyone following the same rules 
in the same way so they all know what to expect. That is why, among 
other things, the stand on vessel is required to maintain course and 
speed and not start zigging and zagging. :-)


Bill Bina

On 6/8/2016 2:39 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
Manual propelled vessels and swimmers don't have to be listed in the 
colregs in order for them to qualify as privileged.  Common sense 
tells me that when approaching them in a sail or power boat, they are 
privileged and I am burdened.


Alan Bergen

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:13 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


They are not part of the pecking order, and I do not believe
human-powered mechanisms count as "propelled by machinery"
anywhere in the colregs. The rig on a sailboat is also machinery
in that sense. It's not a winning argument. Dictionary definitions
have no bearing on definitions in the colregs. :-)

As I said, back when I first learned the colregs, seaplanes did
not count as vessels in the pecking order and had no status. They
were required to keep clear, and not interfere with any vessel
listed in the pecking order, because they were not listed. If you
aren't on the list, you don't count! I think seaplanes finally got
recognized in the 1972 revision. Odd numbered navaids used to be
black barrels!

Bill Bina


On 6/8/2016 2:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Bill,

You are correct that they are not mentioned, but they are still
vessels: (a) The word “vessel” includes every description of
water craft, including nondisplacement craft, WIG craft and
seaplanes, used or capable of being used as a means of
transportation on water.

Are they "powered" by paddles/oars etc? (b) The term
“power-driven vessel” means any vessel propelled by machinery.

Joel

    On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 1:51 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The Colregs do not include rowboats, kayaks, canoes and
paddleboards in the pecking order, which means they have no
specific priority over other vessels. There was a time, when
seaplanes were not included either. Seaplanes were obligated
to avoid interfering with any other vessel. Swimmers,
likewise have no status in the pecking order. Yeah, Rule 2
says do whatever you can to avoid any collision, but vessels
not in the pecking order are obligated to avoid interfering
with all other vessels in all situations. They are never the
"stand on vessel"

The colregs are available to anyone who needs to know, and a
copy should be aboard every vessel.

https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.navcen.uscg.gov_pdf_navrules_navrules.pdf=DQMD-g=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=A5leOeaFFvYJdgyEOTASgNOEPo_Aqc7hrlPISGZmzrg=b4mQFnG_hr3xRx2po0XHTzLkdRG7BtNVzyYK2nAMrOw=>>

Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

They are not part of the pecking order, and I do not believe 
human-powered mechanisms count as "propelled by machinery" anywhere in 
the colregs. The rig on a sailboat is also machinery in that sense. It's 
not a winning argument. Dictionary definitions have no bearing on 
definitions in the colregs. :-)


As I said, back when I first learned the colregs, seaplanes did not 
count as vessels in the pecking order and had no status. They were 
required to keep clear, and not interfere with any vessel listed in the 
pecking order, because they were not listed. If you aren't on the list, 
you don't count! I think seaplanes finally got recognized in the 1972 
revision. Odd numbered navaids used to be black barrels!


Bill Bina


On 6/8/2016 2:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Bill,

You are correct that they are not mentioned, but they are still 
vessels: (a) The word “vessel” includes every description of water 
craft, including nondisplacement craft, WIG craft and seaplanes, used 
or capable of being used as a means of transportation on water.


Are they "powered" by paddles/oars etc? (b) The term “power-driven 
vessel” means any vessel propelled by machinery.


Joel

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 1:51 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


The Colregs do not include rowboats, kayaks, canoes and
paddleboards in the pecking order, which means they have no
specific priority over other vessels. There was a time, when
seaplanes were not included either. Seaplanes were obligated to
avoid interfering with any other vessel. Swimmers, likewise have
no status in the pecking order. Yeah, Rule 2 says do whatever you
can to avoid any collision, but vessels not in the pecking order
are obligated to avoid interfering with all other vessels in all
situations. They are never the "stand on vessel"

The colregs are available to anyone who needs to know, and a copy
should be aboard every vessel.

http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdf>>

Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The Colregs do not include rowboats, kayaks, canoes and paddleboards in 
the pecking order, which means they have no specific priority over other 
vessels. There was a time, when seaplanes were not included either. 
Seaplanes were obligated to avoid interfering with any other vessel. 
Swimmers, likewise have no status in the pecking order. Yeah, Rule 2 
says do whatever you can to avoid any collision, but vessels not in the 
pecking order are obligated to avoid interfering with all other vessels 
in all situations. They are never the "stand on vessel"


The colregs are available to anyone who needs to know, and a copy should 
be aboard every vessel.




Bill Bina



On 6/8/2016 1:33 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
It seems to me that there are a number of people on this list who 
don't know the rules.  Perhaps it's time to read Chapman's "Piloting, 
Seamanship and Small Boat Handling".  The pecking order is:  rowboats 
(including kayaks, canoes, paddle boards), sailboats, powerboats. Then 
there are exceptions:  tug pulling a barge moves up the pecking order; 
overtaking boat moves down the pecking order and I'm sure there are more.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The problem in my local area is kayak and SUP rentals, where the renters 
of the kayaks are completely oblivious to any rules, or their immediate 
surroundings. I can be motoring in my dinghy in the same direction as a 
pack of them and they will suddenly, and sharply, veer directly across 
my bow without any warning, or even a slight turn of their head. I'm 
quite sure they could hear me coming if they were even slightly paying 
attention. I have come very close to running them over through no fault 
of my own. They tend to be in groups, so if one cuts in front of me, I 
may have to run over their friends to avoid them. This is not a rare 
occurrence. Sooner or later, one of these idiots will be run over, and 
then everyone will have a seizure over it, and start proposing all sorts 
of bad laws. Bad for US.


Bill Bina


On 6/8/2016 8:18 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List wrote:
I suggest that row boats ate power vessels where the "vessel propelled 
by machinery" is oars.


Then rule 18 becomes quite clear.
Regardless, rule 18 is likely to apply as a paddle boarder is likely 
in an area of shallow water where navigation is limited by draught.





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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My guess/assumption is that any battery cables on a boat that have the 
old style automotive lead clamps are old cables that may not even be 
proper marine tinned cables. Lots of wiring on old boats, including C, 
was not tinned wire and needs to be replaced, even if it hasn't 
failed... yet.


Bill Bina


On 5/25/2016 11:58 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

Steve,

I agree with Fred.  Rather than dealing with the clamping lug adapters 
and clamping lugs on you cables, it is much better to use proper sized 
eyelets lugs.  It may actually cost you less to convert the cables, 
and likely lead to less troubles down the road.  An other advantage is 
that one can easily add an affordable MRBF terminal fuse block right 
on the battery (ABYC compliant).





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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

NO type of adapter  or work-around is any more secure, reliable, or ABYC 
compliant, than a wing nut on a threaded stud. A regular nut tightened 
by a wrench on a threaded stud is even better. Old school automotive 
type post and clamp connections have never been terribly reliable, 
either. I think new cable ends, or new cables with the correct terminal 
rings, are in order if reliability is desired.


Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List solar power setup...again.

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Strongly recommend a Genasun controller. They make a 5 amp model that 
will fill the bill. Genasun uses all ceramic capacitors which are more 
reliable, especially in harsh environments. The Genasun is a true MPPT 
controller and allows charging to continue taking place even in partial 
shade, where other controllers cut off. You'll get more charging out of 
the panel that with either a lesser controller or no controller. Worth 
every penny. I did a LOT of research. :-)


http://genasun.com/all-products/solar-charge-controllers/for-lead/gv-5-pb-5a-solar-charge-controller/

Bill Bina
On 5/24/2016 10:48 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:
Just to verify, it seems at 50 watts and a 400 amp battery capacity, I 
will not need a controller.  Or is t prudent to have one anyway...


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)






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Re: Stus-List solar power setup...again.

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161669212758

The 50 watt one is 21x27 inches and quite thin.

Bill Bina


On 5/24/2016 10:06 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:
OK...so I am trying to put a trickle charger on top of my sliding 
companionway hatch.   Found a quality one within the length (27") and 
width (24") of the hatch but it is too tall at 1" and the hatch will 
not slide open.


Anybody find a setup that might work that is not one of those cheapo 
packaged units?


Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 wind instrument - cable needed

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Sounds like how my masthead unit slowly died. It became intermittent. 
Brought it down and it tested fine. Put it back up and it acted up again 
after a short while. It was just too old. Failure of the wire is 
possible, but I think less likely. The wire in my mast is inside a 
narrow conduit. Not much room to "slap around"


Bill Bina



On 5/23/2016 3:14 PM, John Read via CnC-List wrote:
Fred Was getting erratic readings. Sent crew up mast. Removed sending 
unit and plugged directly to receiving unit

Worked perfectly . Checked continuity from junction box to receive unit
Was perfect. Only part left is masthead wire. Visual inspection of box 
at top where send unit plugs in looked good
Suspect issue with wire inside mast for many years slapping about. I 
could check it for continuity this weekend. John



Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App



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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 wind instrument - cable needed

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

A phone call might be better. I called them once for an obsolete part. 
It was no longer even listed. Talked to someone in tech support who said 
he thought he had seen one sitting on a shelf, and asked for my mailing 
address. Got the brand-new old part a week later at no charge.


Bill Bina


On 5/23/2016 8:30 AM, John Read via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Fred. Sent them an email yesterday. We shall see.


Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App


-Original Message-

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: f...@postaudio.net
Sent: 2016-05-22 20:53:28 GMT
Subject: Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 wind instrument - cable needed

John — the manual for the 150 lists a replacement masthead cable as 
part M13349005A; have you checked with them?


http://www.standardhorizon.com/?cmd=ContactUs=3

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 22, 2016, at 4:39 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
> wrote:

In need of replacement masthead cable for Standard Horizon Model
150 wind
speed / direction.  Anyone have one?

Many thanks

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT


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Re: Stus-List Solar charge controllers

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Copied and pasted from the Maine Sailor review conclusion:

*"Best Value In A High Performance MPPT Controller = Genasun GV-10"*

I would suggest you call Genasun directly and talk to them about what 
you need. They are very helpful, and in fact, the founder is a long 
distance sailor who was inspired to design a bullet proof controller 
after a personal bad experience. Read the "about us" page on their website.


"Alex MeVay, Genasun’s founder, was sailing the Yucatan in 2003 when his 
power went out. An industry leader’s PWM solar charge controller had 
failed somewhere between Guadeloupe and Boston, leaving him stalled in 
the open ocean to fend for himself. MeVay disassembled the controller to 
find poorly designed electronics and more cut corners than he could 
count. And though he had spares available, he was unnerved having bet 
his life on a shoddy solar component.


After returning to the USA, MeVay joined the MIT solar car team, where 
he spent the next three years refining leading-edge design of solar 
charge controllers and lithium batteries, and designing what would later 
be Genasun’s first MPPT controller. And thus, a new day in solar power 
began."


Bill Bina



On 4/28/2016 6:34 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks guys, I had been focused on getting a Genasun.  I was gonna do 
2, one for each 100w panel.  I had hoped to use their 5amp unit but in 
reviewing the specs it looks like I would exceed the ratings by a 
small margin.  I looked at the 10amp unit but it is nearly twice the 
price.  If they made a 15amp unit then I could justify it since I 
would only need one. Maine Sailor on pbase had some observations about 
the Genasun units and was not particularly impressed.  He cautioned 
against the cheap Chinese controllers and provided a list of 
recommended companies.  This led me to the MorningstarStar 15 amp 
MPPT.   I liked the control options and customizations.  I liked the 
optional remote display panel.  The price for the whole package would 
have been twice that of 2 Genasun 10 amps.  Then I looked at the 
Victron BlueSolar.  A single unit would cover 20amps at the same price 
as a single Genasun 10 amp.  I was close to purchase but then realized 
I would miss out on the customizations and controls of the Morningstar 
unit.  I was also cautioned that the Victron unit might need at least 
+5v more than the battery (12v) just to start charging, unlike other 
units such as the Genasun.  In my search I came across the Renogy 20 
amp unit which had consistently high reviews on Amazon.  The Renogy 
20amp unit also has a remote monitor and all for the price of a single 
Genasun 10 amp or the Victron 20 amp.


Just hoping someone had had good luck with some of these cheaper options.

Josh

On Apr 27, 2016 9:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Josh — I’ve never heard of Renogy before; the Vlctron stuff is
very well built and I’d trust that in a minute.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI   :^(


On Apr 27, 2016, at 8:19 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:

Hey guys,

Anyone have a good experience with an ebay or Amazon, el cheapo
solar charge controller. Particularly a MPPT type.  The price for
the Morningstar is just a little prohibitive for what you get.

Renogy Traker MPPT 20A with the accessory meter is cheaper than
just the Morningstar 15A, MPPT ootion.  It is also only a little
more expensive than the Victron BlueSolar 20A MPPT version.

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



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Stus-List Depth transducer troubleshooting

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have a new Raymarine i50 depth display connected to a D800- P17 
retractable transducer.  Boat was splashed yesterday. The depth display 
reads LAST and three dashes where the depth should be displayed. 
Obviously, it is not getting the information from the transducer. 
Raymarine's technical help consists of: "buy another transducer and plug 
it in to see if you have a bad transducer or cable". Sadly, that is more 
troubleshooting information than they provide in the manual! I just 
called Raymarine tech support and talked to one of their installers. 
That was all he had for advice. I was looking for measurements I might 
take. Resistance between the three leads? Voltages? Waveforms? I have 
good test equipment and know how to use it.  The guy at Raymarine is an 
installer, not an electronics tech. Does anybody have even some basic 
values to test the transducer?


Bill Bina



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