Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: testing list

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I see your message.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI


   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov
   Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2022 4:17 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL]   Re: testing list

 It looks like my iPhone somehow sent an unsubscribe 
request

 Anyway, it is fixed now 


 -Original Message-
 From: james drew via CnC-List 
 Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2022 9:18 AM
 To: Stus-List 
 Cc: james drew 
 Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: testing list

 Working here Stu. Thanks for your service.

Stus-List Cheap C 33 on FB marketplace

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

East Coast of U.S.
Nothing to do with me, but a good price for someone.
Atomic 4 Kaput
$3k

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1837505369973569/?ref=browse_tab_code=marketplace_top_picks_story_type=top_picks
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: list problems - What problem?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

For what it is worth, not everyone is affected.

I have had exactly zero of the problems reported.
Bell business mail using their web interface. Windows 8.1 and Windows 
7.0. Firefox. Desktop and laptop.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cscheaf...@comcast.net
   Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2022 7:31 AM
   Subject: Stus-List list problems


Don't know why it's happening, or how to fix it, but it's happening 
to a whole lotta members, it started after Stu's cutting board offer 
went out and I don't have this problem with any other emails, just those 
from the CNC list and not all of those.






I'm using Comcast.net email on a HP laptop, running Firefox.





Chuck S







   There are no links in this footer.




There are no links in this footer.

Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question > List as Text Attachements

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

If you see three dots,   ...

Click on the dots.

Steve
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: strig...@eastlink.ca; ka123dswense...@gmail.com
   Sent: Sunday, March 6, 2022 10:49 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question > List as Text 
Attachements




Rods original email came through, with Dave S's with no body to the 
message. Brian's came through, and showed Rods, but no body to Rod's 
message. Didn't see anything in my spam folder.

David

Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Test One Plain Text

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

You can set the default to whatever you want.


   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
   Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 2:20 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Test One Plain Text


 Testing in plain text.  This is typical of cell phone emails but from 
a

 computer HTML is the default.

 Thanks,
 Paul Hood
 416-799-5549

 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 Sent: February 2, 2022 1:53 PM
 To: 'Stus-List' 
 Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Test One Plain Text


 This message is sent in plain-text mode

 -Original Message-
 From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 1:27 PM
 To: 'Stus-List' 
 Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
 Subject: Stus-List Test One


 Testing email
 1
 2
 3
 Test One Two Three

Stus-List Re: Test One HTML

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I get 3 dots for attached threads when someone is responding to an email 
and using html instead of (the preferred) plain text.


 I took me a while to find out that by clicking on the three dots ( ... 
), the rest of the email appeared.
None of this is new however, it started about a year ago, but it is true 
that it wasn't always like that.

Steve Thomas




   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jhnelso...@gmail.com
   Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 2:09 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Test One HTML


 If it was supposed to have "Testing email" as an html attachment 
didn't get an attachment.

 Just got exactly what you see below.

 Using Thunderbird as email.


On 2022-02-02 14:53, Joe Della Barba   via CnC-List wrote:




This one is sent in HTML mode

-Original Message-
   From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 

   Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 1:27 PM
   To: 'Stus-List'  


   Cc: j...@dellabarba.com 
   Subject: Stus-List Test One


Testing email
1
2
3
Test One Two Three

Stus-List Re: Abnormal list things

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

My email account is with Bell (@bellnet.ca) and all is normal.



   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: s...@snghost.com
   Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 9:14 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Abnormal list things





I have not been informed by the software people that serious changes 
have  been made.  I don’t know why we are getting html characters 
instead of  plain text.




Google (gmail) has been acting strangely this past couple of months. 
All emails sent from the Photo Album domain to a gmail account get 
rejected and  they do not offer any support to correct the problem.




I do some digging to see if I can find any current problems and/or 
fixes.




Hope everyone is warm and safe during the winter season.



Stu

Stus-List Re: Long shot: replacement C 36-1 anchor locker hatch/cover

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

What Bill said, except "wax the shit out of it" instead of grease. Apply 
gelcoat, then fiberglass and resin (polystyrene) to make the mold. Then 
do the same thing with the mold to make the part.  I don't know if this 
process works for epoxy resins or not but that is how they used to do it 
at a local company that made classic car replicas here in the late 
1970s.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII 1978
C MKI   1980
PS There are lots of specific products for mold making and mold release 
on the market now. I am no expert. Here is one article on making molds 
for boat building which may contain some useful pointers.

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/blog/gelcoat/how-to-make-a-fiberglass-mold/
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: colt...@gmail.com
   Sent: Monday, January 31, 2022 10:58 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Long shot: replacement C 36-1 anchor locker 
hatch/cover





Back around 1970, I damaged my left front fender (’61 MKII Jag) and as 
there were not many spare fenders sitting around, I used my brothers 58 
for a pattern. I think I wiped some grease on his, and laid several 
layers of fiberglass, then peeled it off and buffed his fender off. And 
Bob was my uncle, and brother too.


Find another 36 to borrow the lid, you could make a female pattern and 
make your final off that.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



From: Wyatt via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
 Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2022 8:30 AM
 To: Stus-List
 Cc: Wyatt
 Subject: Stus-List Long shot: replacement C 36-1 anchor locker 
hatch/cover



Hi all, so the hinges on my anchor locker failed in a rough sea state 
and I lost it unfortunately (1979 C 36-1)…anyone have a lead on 
where I could find a replacement? Otherwise looking at crafting one out 
of marine plywood and fiberglass.





Thanks!


Wyatt

Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, James.

That is a great picture.
Steve Thomas
C MKIII 1978 Ontario
C MKI 1980 Florida
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jameshesk...@gmail.com
   Sent: Monday, January 17, 2022 10:16 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax


On a motorcycle trip to The Cabot Trail on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia in 
the late '90s, I was thrilled to see Farley's boat -- Happy Adventure -- 
AKA The Boat Who Wouldn't Float. She was sitting on the hard, badly 
shored up with a broken back, as a tourist attraction outside a 
restaurant.



Here's a link to a site with a photo of her there:

https://www.reddit.com/r/drydockporn/comments/4ske5e/newfoundland_jack_schooner_happy_adventure_on_the/ 



Richard  wrote:


 Andrew; I read that book a couple of years ago at the suggestion of 
someone on this list..love it!








On side note. I grew up sailing on my dad’s C 27 in British Columbia. 
On one cruise, I read a book by Canadian author Farley Mowat called The 
Boat Who Wouldn’t Float, about a pair of fellows buying and converting a 
small fishing schooner in Newfoundland.



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Landfall 48 Pilothouse question

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

It will be cored at least down to the water line, all the medium sized 
C cruisers of that era were done that way, but that is a particularly 
large model and I don't know if they put coring deeper than that with 
the larger ones. Might be able to see by looking in the compartments 
under the seats/berths. If the coring ends there may be a visible change 
in the layup along a horizontal line near the water.

Steve Thomas
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com
   Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2021 10:18 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Landfall 48 Pilothouse question






 Fellow C’ers,




 I am a C owner and Yacht Broker.  I have a customer that is looking 
at a 1980 C Landfall 48 Pilot House.  There were 24 of these built and 
a very interesting layout.





 Does anyone know if the hull is cored or solid?




 Respectfully,

 Neil Andersen




1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800



   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuff for sale

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

  I would like to buy the ST60 speed and wind.
I can pay you via PayPal most easily.
I will be out until later today, but I want that, and will give you a 
Florida address to ship it to later.

$250 US right?
Thanks,
Steve Thomas
C MKI
C MKIII




   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joel.aron...@gmail.com
   Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2021 11:13 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuff for sale


sorry, sailatlan...@gmail.com 

On Tue, Nov 23, 2021 at 10:56 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:


I've got the following instruments for sale:

B Network (NMEA 183) ,Depth Speed, Wind & Compass.


Ray ST60 Tridata, speed and wind (with broken terminal)


Asking $200 each for the working instruments, $50 for the ST60 wind with 
domestic shipping.



Ten percent goes to Stu.


Email me at sailatlantis.com   if interested. 
Photos available.



Joel

--

Joel



 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu



--

Joel


 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Selling a FL vessel in Bahamas

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I enquired about registering a boat in Bahamas when I was in Georgetown 
in 2013. There were some fees for the registration itself, but so long 
as there was no problem with the boat's paperwork, the main thing was 
the import duty which was 10% of the value of the boat. Once registered 
as Bahamian, there are no more cruising permits required for the boat, 
just visa stamps on passports. I doubt if things have changed all that 
much but the government of Bahamas web pages do have quite a bit of 
customs information available online last time I looked.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wyattchamp...@gmail.com
   Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2021 11:23 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Selling a FL vessel in Bahamas

Hi there, does anyone have experience with selling a vessel in 
the Bahamas? I have a 1979 C that is registered/titled in Florida, 
and am hoping to do a one-way trip, ending in Georgetown, Exumas 
(selling the vessel and flying out of there). Would I need to register 
the vessel in the Bahamas? Would I even be able to? Has anyone heard of 
a similar experience?


Thank you for your time, Wyatt
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I believe that the bolts in question are the through-the-deck bolts that 
secure the pedestal to the deck. They are also the only aluminum bolts 
that I know of that were once "standard" on Edson pedestal steering 
systems. If I am wrong on the latter, I am certain that others will 
chime in. :)


Steve Thomas
1980 C MKI
1978 C MKIII


-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: shawngwri...@gmail.com
   Sent: Friday, November 19, 2021 8:42 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.


Can you share any photos of the bolts in question? Are these above deck, 
or below? I'm not aware of any aluminum bolts in my pedestal, but they 
may have been replaced with stainless steel. There is one SS round head 
machine screw that is loose and has no material left to grab (threads 
stripped out) on one of the aluminum pieces which fit over the SS tubing 
at the deck level. As the pedestal is solid, I've ignored it for now. 
Everything below deck looks good also, but it's been a year since I 
checked so it's on the list.




--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 







On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 1:19 PM John McCrea via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



All,

I was aware that my bolts in my steering assembly below the pedestal 
were failing when I noticed a gap on the bow side of the sheave assembly 
this summer. After trying to tighten one of the aluminum bolts it 
crumbled. Had two remaining good ones in the stern and limped the way 
through the remainder of the season. Today loosened the steering cables 
to start to take apart the assembly with the intent of fixing in place 
with new bolts. Having had a similar but more catastrophic failure on 
our past 1989 37/40 XL I can see that the assembly itself is in good 
shape. My question is the use of the aluminum bolts. Since that is what 
failed should I switch to stainless? May be a good question for Rob Ball 
but wanted to see what others have used. Thanks!


John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Putting our C 36 up for sale

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

HI Adam,

 I have a 1980 C in Florida and I am Canadian and 
live in Canada, so you know what that means. The boat is in the water at 
a marina and I do have a neighbour at the marina who checks on it for 
me. The throttle cable got stuck about a year and a half ago, however, 
and the engine has not been run since. Anyway, I am considering a short 
maintenance trip to replace both cables and check on things generally. I 
replaced these on my C MKIII, so I know what is involved and how it 
is critical to get the right length, type, and ends on the cables. It 
would help me a lot if I could order these parts before flying down. If 
you still have your invoices or order information otherwise I would sure 
appreciate it if you would send me the exact part numbers, lengths, and 
any other descriptive information needed to get the right cables.


Best Regards,

Steve Thomas
C MKI - Merritt Island, Florida
C MKIII - Port Stanley, Ontario




   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: hayden.a...@hotmail.com
   Sent: Friday, October 8, 2021 8:56 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Putting our C 36 up for sale


Hey listers



After some careful consideration we have decided to list State of Bliss 
for sale.  We are going to follow Edd's plan and move to the dark side. 
We have done almost a full refurbishment over the past 5 years.




If you know if anyone that is looking for a great cruiser/Racer pass 
along the listing.   Great price at $28,000 cdn.






https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/new-glasgow-ns/great-sailboat-c-c36-for-sale/1588943549 





Adam Hayden

C 36

Pictou NS




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

That may be true for new policies, or in your location, or something to 
do with your agent, but Progressive refused to write a liability-only 
policy for my 1980 sailboat in central Florida 5 years ago. They put a 
low valuation on the boat and a considerable deductible, which 
effectively made it liability-only, but it still wound up costing over 
$800 USD per year.

Steve Thomas
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rockybazem...@gmail.com
   Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 10:23 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance


Just looked into it and Progressive is only liability coverage for boats 
over 20 years old. If your boat gets struck by lighting or sinks you get 
$0. Guess I'll stick with Geico. I got struck by lightning last year and 
they fixed everything. Yes it is expensive.  Correct me if I'm wrong.

Rocky


On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 9:47 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



That was why I left Boat US / GEICO in the first place – that whole 
reduced value to 20% baloney.  I switched to Travelers, which had a good 
policy but dramatically increased its annual premium the last three 
years.  As a result, I’m now with Progressive.


I’m the kind of person who likes to find a good policy with reasonable 
rates and stick with it.  For boat insurance, however, it pays to shop 
around.



From: David Risch via CnC-List  >

Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 9:25 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Andy Frame mailto:svmar...@pm.me> > David Risch 
mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> >

Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance


Check the fine print.   Ask the question.   If I lose the mast

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Balsa core history - problems and fixes

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

All,
Much has been written about the problem of wet balsa when and if it 
happens and I have seen many methods better and worse for deck repairs. 
What I have not seen are examples of how people have gone about 
repairing wet cored areas of the hull. Any pointers other than "forget 
about it" would be appreciated.


Steve Thomas




   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov; strig...@eastlink.ca
   Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 1:32 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL]   Re: Balsa core history


Yes that old foam is crap.  The new Coosa 
https://coosacomposites.com/the-coosa-advantage/ 
  and equivalents do 
not soak up water and are put together under tons of pressure.



From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: September-17-21 11:21 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Balsa core history


Typo
Water migrates slowly through end-grain balsa but really tears foam up
---
Snip snip snip



Great info and research; so, how did balsa go from "wonder" material to; 
"bad stuff don't touch..."?





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Joe,

 I have been checking into this, and there are 2 things that 
you should be aware of first.
1. You probably want LiFePO4 batteries as opposed to "regular" 
lithium-ion batteries. The latter are the ones more likely to catch on 
fire although it is a possibility with both chemistries. The LiFePO4 
main advantage is that the cell voltage rises when fully charged in a 
way that is similar to lead-acid batteries. You can purchase 12-volt 
batteries that are designed to be hooked up to a vehicle (lead-acid) 
charging system, but the manufactures often have an * on that, no 
hooking them in series for example. This is due to the battery 
management system (bms) that equalizes the charge on the individual 
cells. There may be a maximum charge and discharge current for example, 
which leads to the second thing.
2. There is no real standardization in the products that are available. 
It is really really important to read and understand the manufacturer's 
specifications.
I bought a 20 amp hour battery to isolate the radio as an experiment and 
it specifies that it is not to be connected in series to make a 24-volt 
system. Their documentation states that if you want a higher voltage 
battery from them you need to buy one. They are ok to charge or 
discharge in parallel. This is all down to the capabilities of the BMS 
electronics that they are using as I understand it. Different 
manufactures, different specs.

Steve Thomas
Mystique
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov
   Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2021 9:27 AM
   Subject: Stus-List anyone gone lithium?



My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium 
batteries. I have to say I thought I knew this stuff and it seems 
massively confusing with a ton of directly contradictory information. 
One  big issue seems that if the BMS disconnects for any reason, that 
will do a lot of damage to your alternator and perhaps other equipment 
too. Add to that my regulator does not have a specific lithium setting, 
I would need to get into the custom menus and try  and make one.
What seems to be the best bet is just to connect the alternator to the 
start battery and use a DC-DC charger to charge the lithium bank. Some 
of them also take solar input, so that saves me buying a solar 
controller with lithium settings, which is something else I don’t 
currently have.


Joe
Coquina
   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

   It was not Andrews that could not do the point-to-point in the 
United States. The company is Bothwell Marine that recently moved a 
Hughes 35 from Miami to Southwestern Ontario for $7,000 CAD and they are 
not able to do origin and destination in the U.S. There must be 
additional licensing involved for a foreign company to be able to 
operate point to point in the US. Anyway, that is what they told me when 
I called on the telephone today. Size matters for cost as others have 
noted, and the Hughes 35 is 35.5 X 10.3.


Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON

-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: t...@sv-alera.com
   Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 8:45 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

 .Andrews Trucking did most if the deliveries from the C 
Factory and is still in business.  They were doing point to point in the 
states and well as CN to US stuff.  Not sure why they would not be able 
to do point to point US as someone mentioned,  They brought ALera out 
from Niagara on the Lake fior us and were.  FWIW our 37+ was around 12k 
USD in 2012. They even had a custom trailer for our wing keel!

  https://www.andrewstrucking.com/
  
 .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
 Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 C 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com 



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Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

She is an accomplished sailor and she lives on the boat now, has for a 
long time, as I said in my last sentence. Living on a boat at a marina 
is not as demanding as single-handed sailing. She sailed the boat from 
Seattle to the east coast but that was some time ago.


Steve Thomas


   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov
   Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 2:35 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations



She could save a ton of money sailing north instead of west.
If she really has to be in California, where slips are big $$$ and hard 
to find with live-aboard slips being even harder, the money might work 
out better to sell the boat and buy one already there.
I really really hate to say this, but if she can’t day-sail her way to 
Texas, how long is she going to be able to be on the boat at all?


Joe
Coquina


From: Steve Thomas 
 Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 2:17 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
 Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations




It is the owner that is fragile, not the boat. She is in her mid-70s, 
with bad bones in her back, and with stainless steel rods holding things 
together. The boat is well looked  after and just had a haul out and a 
minor refit. She has been in Florida too long, is fed up with it, and 
would much rather sail it back through Panama herself but reluctantly 
admits she is no longer up to the task. I have suggested it might be 
cheaper for  her to work her way around to Texas and truck it from there 
but again she would need a sailing companion even for that. Money is not 
unlimited and she is exploring her options. - A long-time liveaboard 
sailor.



Steve Thomas


-- Original Message --
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov 
 Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 1:40 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations





If the boat is too fragile to just sail to San Diego, is the boat worth 
shipping across the country?

I could probably find a fragile old 35 foot boat for $25K in California.
Also note the Canadian shipper *might* be able to ship the boat to 
Canada and then ship her to San Diego, but  you might have to pay 
customs both ways ☹

Joe
Coquina








   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - Stu





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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

It is the owner that is fragile, not the boat. She is in her mid-70s, 
with bad bones in her back, and with stainless steel rods holding things 
together. The boat is well looked after and just had a haul out and a 
minor refit. She has been in Florida too long, is fed up with it, and 
would much rather sail it back through Panama herself but reluctantly 
admits she is no longer up to the task. I have suggested it might be 
cheaper for her to work her way around to Texas and truck it from there 
but again she would need a sailing companion even for that. Money is not 
unlimited and she is exploring her options. - A long-time liveaboard 
sailor.


Steve Thomas

-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov
   Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 1:40 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations






If the boat is too fragile to just sail to San Diego, is the boat worth 
shipping across the country?

I could probably find a fragile old 35 foot boat for $25K in California.
Also note the Canadian shipper *might* be able to ship the boat to 
Canada and then ship her to San Diego, but you might have to pay customs 
both ways ☹


Joe
Coquina






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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

A friend of mine with a 35-foot sailboat wants to move it from Cape 
Canaveral to San Diego. She is a bit frail to be sailing it back herself 
or she would be doing that. Anyway, the prices she has found so far are 
rather high. A New York based company quoted her $25,000 USD.


A different friend had his 35 foot Hughes trucked from Miami to 
Southwestern Ontario a few months ago for $7,000 CAD, so that seems a 
bit much. Unfortunately, that company is Canadian and can't do 
point-to-point shipping within the United States.
Any recommendations or anecdotal experience would be helpful. I know 
that several people on (or who were on) the list have looked into this 
or done similar moves themselves.

Thanks in advance,
Steve Thomas
C MKI 1980, C MKIII 1978
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Stus-List Re: Steering cable

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Whether or not the cables cross in the pedestal depends on whether your 
boat has a quadrant or a radius wheel. A quadrant is normally mounted on 
the forward side of the rudder shaft. I had to replace the sheave 
assembly at the base of the pedestal on my 36 and the most challenging 
part was hooking up the cables to the wheel on the rudder shaft. Not 
rocket science any of it, but you need to be a contortionist to get at 
it. I removed the scupper hose in order to gain better access.

Steve Thomas
C MKI 1980
C MKIII 1978

   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohn...@aol.com
   Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2021 11:34 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Steering cable


The first time I had to replace the steering cable I was advised to use 
a coat hanger with a loop at the end and bent at a 90° angle to use as a 
guide .  Worked pretty well.  Note that the cables cross in the 
pedestal.

Spencer Johnson
84 LF 38 'Alegria "
Racine, WI

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

You are fortunate to live in such a beautiful place, Dwight. I have not 
forgotten that bay, or your boat, or your generous hospitality.


Cheers,
Steve Thomas

-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight...@gmail.com
   Sent: Sunday, August 1, 2021 4:11 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Checking the list


Beautiful here, about 20 apparent to weather, sunny, tee shirt sailing 
on the Bay





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Stus-List Re: 2-way headsets?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I have looked for those as well and the price cannot be justified from 
any technical perspective. Everyone it seems looks to cellphones first, 
but there is no way they can talk to each other without a tower. They 
could make it possible with blue-tooth but they don't. Ought to be a way 
to get blu-tooth based headphones to communicate with each other too but 
that is not supported either. Then I looked for FRS radios built into 
headphones, and back to stupid high prices. I'll bet we could have 
purchased something off the shelf at Radio Shack 30 or 40 years ago that 
would have worked just fine.


Enough of the rant.
The only thing I have found short of manufacturing something would be a 
FRS walkie-talkie with VOX and a compatible headset.


Steve Thomas



   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: nateflesn...@gmail.com
   Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2021 12:22 PM
   Subject: Stus-List 2-way headsets?


Our anchoring (and our marriage) has benefitted from Cruising Solutions 
two-way headsets for 6 or 7 years. The modest ~$80/pair units were great 
... but are getting wonky, and I'm looking at replacements. Everything 
on the market looks more sophisticated, and a LOT more expensive, at ~ 
$350 to ~$800 per pair.


Anyone have a modest-priced solution?


Thanks


Nate Flesness


Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
St. Croix River


Raven
1994 Tartan 31
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia
Lake Superior

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Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 There are two things unknown to me that make me hesitate 
when considering UHMWPE for standing rigging:
1. How long can we expect it to last on an "ordinary" sailboat in 
"ordinary" use if appropriately sized and properly installed?
2. Is there any way to inspect the lines for deterioration or loss of 
strength?

And finally,
Would you recommend it for replacing the rod rigging that most of us are 
still sailing around with on our C?
Would such a conversion be likely to wind up more or less expensive for 
parts than conventional wire rigging?
The new fibres and ropes are not so new anymore and I am guessing that 
there is enough field experience now that these are not unreasonable 
questions.

Thanks for your helpful contributions to the list knowledge base.
Steve Thomas
C MKI 1980
C MKIII 1978

-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
   Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2021 9:21 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

Full disclosure, I work for a rope company. But a few things so 
say regards to Dyneema.  First of all Dyneema is a brand name that comes 
in a wide range of “models”.  The actual material is UHMWPE or Ultra 
High Molecular Weight Polyethylene.  A Dutch company DSM makes the yarns 
with subtle differences in order to achieve different characteristics 
such as strength and elongation and something called “creep”.  The 
grades of Dyneema are categorized by an SK number with the higher 
numbers yielding higher performance, generally speaking.  However DSM is 
not the only company that makes UHMWPE yarns.  Honeywell makes an 
equivalent yarn called Spectra which also comes in different grades. 
Finally there are generic offerings, typically Asian made that are often 
much cheaper than Spectra or Dyneema but quality tends to vary.
A rope maker can choose which yarns to use in a particular rope, using 
the fibers to make either a 12 strand hollow braid or to use the high 
modulus fibers as the core in a low stretch double braid with an outer 
cover braid of a high wear or YV stable material like polyester.  Doing 
the latter adds weight, but dramatically increases longevity.  Even if 
UHMWPE is used just for the core, most companies will still coat the 
yarns in a urethane bath to provide additional protection from chafe and 
to provide color coding.
Finally, some rope makers will use a process called heat setting the 
Dyneema rope by pre-stretching and aligning the fibers and then exposing 
the rope to a heat process that removes most of the creep (non 
recoverable elongation on a molecular level).  There’s usually a slight 
reduction in overall strength with heat set ropes, but far less stretch.
It is these heat set ropes that I would recommend for any standing 
rigging application.  UHMWPE is quite slippery and achieving proper 
tension and maintaining it under load can be challenging without the 
proper terminations and fittings.
Several companies like Colligio and Blue Wave offer specific hardware to 
create standing rigging solutions that provide adjustments and 
tensioning solutions.

Hope this helps..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
LF 35
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Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Bob,

  In the 20 years I've had my C, little bits of wood or 
twigs have got sucked into the engine cooling water intake on several 
occasions and lodged in unobvious places. They caused partial blockages 
that were hard to diagnose and are memorable for that reason. Our 
sailing club is small river leading into Lake Erie so there is a lot of 
crap being driven down steam from time to time. Count yourself lucky if 
you don't have that problem.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII - Port Stanley, Ontario
C MKI -  Merritt Island, Florida


   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dainyr...@icloud.com
   Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 11:55 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box

Fred:

I’ve never heard or imagined anything so strange.  First, the shaft seal 
is a good foot or more below the waterline.  Pieces of wood generally 
float—so they would normally be near the surface of the water.  And then 
have a piece of wood lodge between the stainless and graphite seal on 
top of all that!  I would think the odds of that happening by natural 
occurrence would be astronomical.


Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On Jul 13, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Years ago a small piece of wood came up thru the shaft log into the 
bellows and wedged itself between the stainless and graphite rings. The 
boat sank overnight.
The moral of this story is that you should periodically check the 
pressure of the bellows.

My stainless ring had slipped.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 13, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:




Jeff,

As you mentioned earlier, this topic shows up every so often.

As a PSS user, I am obviously biased.

The stuck graphite face was an issue in older designs (the unvented 
type). The Volvo version of the dripless seal still requires burping.


I can imagine that if I were to sail around the world, I might prefer 
the traditional stuffing box (the maintenance is easier and the spare 
parts can be fabricated by a skilled blacksmith ()),  but if you sail 
in the area where spare parts are generally available, the dripless 
solution is completely reliable.


I am happy with my dry bilge.

Marek


1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON





From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 9:25 AM
 To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box




Let's exclude power boats -- an entirely different environment and 
demand on the hardware.



Jeff L.



















   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>   Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The power boat that was docked next to me at a marina in Florida 
experienced such a failure. I was there when it happened. The owner 
knocked on my boat and wanted a portable water pump if I had one. Long 
story short, water came in faster than the bilge pumps could get it out 
and he got an emergency tow $$$ to the travel lift for a haul out. There 
was another failure that I did not personally witness within a year or 
so of that event. This was at a 600 slip marina, not a scientific sample 
or experiment I concede, but enough to scare me off. I make no claim 
that the devices were properly maintained, just that bronze packing 
glands don't shatter. It may be that newer "dripless" designs exist that 
won't fail in this way, I don't know, but I know for a fact that some 
designs can and do under some circumstances.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII - Ontario
C MKI - Florida


   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jlam...@outlook.com
   Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 7:47 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box


 Hello all,



 From time to time this discussion of stuffing box vs PSS dripless 
comes up and catastrophic failure is typically mentioned.




 Has anyone on this list experienced a PSS catastrophic failure (that 
is the fault of PSS) or have direct knowledge of someone who did?




 Installed PSS 4 years ago. Maintenance free = more time sailing.



 Jeff Laman


 1981 C


 Harmony


 Ludington, Mi




 Get Outlook for Android 



From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 7:34:29 AM
 To: Stus-List 
 Cc: Robert Boyer 
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box



I’ve had a PSS shaft seal for our long time on our LF38 with no problems 
except when a shaft key broke and allowed the shaft to slip.  However, 
the same thing could have happened with packing.  I would never consider 
going back to packing.



Bob


Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

email: dainyr...@icloud.com


 On Jul 13, 2021, at 7:26 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:






+1 on that; though I have mine for only 9 years.

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON





From: ssjohnson via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 11:10 PM
 To: Stus-List 
 Cc: ssjohnson 
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box




I've had a PSS shafted, and a DRY bilge for 10 years...think it is 
great.



Spencer Johnson


84 LF38


Racine, WI




 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu



   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

One reason might be that PSS systems have a catastrophic failure mode 
that can result in flooding when the graphite shatters.


I second the Buck Algonquin recommendation. I used conventional packing 
with teflon grease.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII - 1978
C MKI - 1980
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svrebeccal...@gmail.com
   Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 9:27 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box


Why would you want to?





Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


Doug Mountjoy
Port Orchard YC
Port Orchard,  WA
sv Rebecca Leah
1988 C LF39




 Original message 
From: Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
Date: 7/12/21  5:43 PM  (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Thorne 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box


Folks my 1990 34+ has the PSS shaft seal system.  I want to swap it out 
for a traditional stuffing box and am looking for advise on which 
stuffing box manufacturers to look into.  My prop shaft is 1 &1/8” which 
may be a challenge finding a suitable match but hopefully not a big 
deal.


Thank you


Stephen Thorne
34+ Deja Vu’
770.722.2848
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu





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Stus-List Re: Rescue at sea.

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Wow.

Refused entry to the harbour.
Not the Bermuda I remember.
Steve Thomas
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dave.god...@me.com
   Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2021 1:20 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Rescue at sea.


I’m posting this thread because there may those amongst the list that 
will find this interesting.


This post is somewhat C related because the subject of the video 
upgraded his boat near mine. He just did his upgrades with much more 
alacrity.


Kim is an acquaintance of mine, lives in the same town and has attended 
more than one of our annual Sock Burning Parties. I’ve assisted him with 
some of his projects. Prior to his setting sail for Bermuda, I worked 
along with another very experience offshore sailor (in the yard 
repainting his Valiant 42 with triple spreader carbon rig) to get him 
prepped and sorted away. The Valiant owner leant Kim his life raft. 
Having raced to Bermuda in the past Kim was keen for any insights that I 
could impart. I told him to stay away from the Swizzle Inn rum swizzles 
and take the round-abouts in a clock-wise direction...



I don’t have any insights or knowledge of events other than what is 
portrayed in the video and I’m not going to speculate.



This voyage was a long-term dream of Kim’s. His boat is a mid-to-late 
80’s Jeanneau, around 35 feet.



Rescue at Sea 


Regards,


Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA





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Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I guess I was not clear enough in what I wrote.

The liability maximum payout is $300,000.
That is all that I wanted, but they insisted on coverage for my losses 
as well, so I went with the cheapest coverage that they were willing to 
write. So if my boat is wrecked, the most they will pay me is $3,000. If 
my boat is responsible for damage to others, requires removal from a 
shoal, or whatever else (with listed exceptions) that could result in a 
lawsuit, they will cover up to $300,000.
Don't forget that Central Florida is in a high risk area for hurricane 
damage, and liability premiums are not comparable to the Chesapeake.


Steve


   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
   Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2021 8:57 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats


That does not make sense to me. You are paying $800 a year for a max 
payout of $3,000  If I went just liability my insurance bill would 
be around $120 a year or so. I would shop around.

Joe


From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2021 6:49 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats


Problem is my boat is in Mexico.  Been to Novamar.  No help there.  Boat 
is being hauled for survey next month.


Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>



From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >

Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2021 2:07:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >

Cc: Steve Thomas mailto:sthom...@bellnet.ca> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats



I just today paid the annual $1,000,000 CAD liability-only premium for 
my 1978 C on the Canadian side of Lake Erie. It was $70.20 CAD. 
Desjardins Insurance, which bought out State Farm here a few years ago.


The 1980 C in Central Florida on the other hand, costs over $800.00 
US for 300,000 US liability with Progressive. That is with the hull 
valued at 5,000 and a 2,000 dollar deductible. (I know, but for some 
reason, they would not write me a liability-only policy. Without the 
deductible, the premium would have been over $1,200.00 US. They refused 
to write a liability-only policy ostensibly because I live out of 
state.)

Your mileage may vary.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>   Thanks - Stu





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I just today paid the annual $1,000,000 CAD liability-only premium for 
my 1978 C on the Canadian side of Lake Erie. It was $70.20 CAD. 
Desjardins Insurance, which bought out State Farm here a few years ago.


The 1980 C in Central Florida on the other hand, costs over $800.00 
US for 300,000 US liability with Progressive. That is with the hull 
valued at 5,000 and a 2,000 dollar deductible. (I know, but for some 
reason, they would not write me a liability-only policy. Without the 
deductible, the premium would have been over $1,200.00 US. They refused 
to write a liability-only policy ostensibly because I live out of 
state.)

Your mileage may vary.
Steve Thomas

-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
   Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2021 4:41 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats



One thing you can do is just get liability insurance. Your boat won't be 
covered, but you'll be insured if you damage another person's property.







Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR







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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

If the mast has "sunk" relative to the deck that would explain why the 
collar is being pulled down hard on the deck by the mast straps. Looks 
to me like the deck adjacent to the mast is being pushed down by the 
mast. Without the straps, there would be no compression.


Steve




   -- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: shawngwri...@gmail.com
   Sent: Wednesday, June 9, 2021 9:53 PM
   Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?


On our 35-2, the area around the mast collar had wet core, and was 
repaired (drilled & filled with epoxy) by the previous owner 20 years 
ago. This area is now very solid, basically all epoxy. The mast collar 
has 4 bolts through the deck, but also a SS strap on each side, and 
these are connected below decks with a bolt though the mast, so most of 
the upward force on the collar is transferred to the mast, not the deck. 
Just had the mast out for the first time in 20 years when the work was 
done, and it still seems very solid.


Possibly adding the straps between the mast and collar (if they are 
absent) might help with your deck compression issue.




--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
<https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto>






On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at 10:06 AM Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:


I have a C MK1, 1980 version, with the same problem. Starboard is 
worse than port but both stick up. When I bought the boat it had been 
sitting in the water at a Florida marina, untended for several years. 
There were 2 things I noticed that I think might be related. One is that 
the rig, though pinned, was quite loose at the time of purchase and one 
of the first things I did was take the slack out, not super tight, but 
snug. Two, there appears to be a lot of pressure exerted on the deck by 
the mast collar through the mast tangs and it looks like it is pulled 
down a quarter of an inch or more by looking at the headliner. My first 
suspicion was that there is rotten wood under the mast step but I can 
see no evidence of it and have not had the opportunity to unstep the 
mast yet. Perhaps the hull permanently deforms over time? I have thought 
of putting a shim in the step to bring the collar back up a bit.


Steve Thomas
Waiting out the pandemic in Ontario.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I have a C MK1, 1980 version, with the same problem. Starboard is 
worse than port but both stick up. When I bought the boat it had been 
sitting in the water at a Florida marina, untended for several years. 
There were 2 things I noticed that I think might be related. One is that 
the rig, though pinned, was quite loose at the time of purchase and one 
of the first things I did was take the slack out, not super tight, but 
snug. Two, there appears to be a lot of pressure exerted on the deck by 
the mast collar through the mast tangs and it looks like it is pulled 
down a quarter of an inch or more by looking at the headliner. My first 
suspicion was that there is rotten wood under the mast step but I can 
see no evidence of it and have not had the opportunity to unstep the 
mast yet. Perhaps the hull permanently deforms over time? I have thought 
of putting a shim in the step to bring the collar back up a bit.


Steve Thomas
Waiting out the pandemic in Ontario.
-- Original Message --
   From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rodf...@gmail.com
   Sent: Wednesday, June 9, 2021 7:24 AM
   Subject: Stus-List Deck hold -down?






















I have a C 36-1. There are stainless strap assemblies bolted through 
the main bulkhead  port and starboard. These are welded to stainless 
pads bolted through the deck. I have removed the mounting bolts and the 
holes in the bulkhead are not elongated yet there is a gap of about 
5/16" under the plate on the deck above. What is this for? I am guessing 
a deck hold--down, yet the deck appears to be firmly in contact with the 
bulkhead below. Has anyone else seen this? What have you done about it?



Thanks


Rod Fisk
C 36 Corsair
Oshkosh, WI



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Wish they had something like that for removing sail numbers.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI
Chillin on the north shore of Lake Erie.




 -- Original Message --
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidrisc...@msn.com
 Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2021 8:01 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Removing lettering


Works a charm


From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 7:14 PM
 To: Stus-List 
 Cc: Ken Heaton 
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Removing lettering



3M makes a type of rubber wheel you put in a drill and use to rub off 
adhesive lettering.  Apparently they work well.





Google "3M Stripe Off Wheel"  There are videos out there showing how 
they work.  They use them at work to strip decals off municipal 
vehicles, including police cars, before we auction them off.  Some of 
these vehicles have had those decals  on for more than 10 years and they 
come right off.  You can still see where the decals had been, but only 
because the original paint is in better condition where the decals were, 
protecting it.





Ken H.






On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 at 16:18, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:






Oh great and powerful list  .  I need to remove some lettering 
(adhesive) to change my home port, etc.






Suggestions?






Neil Andersen


20691 Jamieson Rd


Rock Hall, MD 21661



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: White vinegar

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

In Canada, we sprinkle it on French fries or make pickles with it.
Also can be used to keep your head running smoothly and with less smell, 
especially in saltwater.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI


 -- Original Message --
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: fshazz...@gmail.com
 Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 11:01 AM
 Subject: Stus-List White vinegar

   As senior citizen I suffer from the dreaded malady
 CRS.
 Yesterday while visiting Fury I found a gallon of white vinegar.
 Hopefully, one of you can remind me what is for.
 Thanks
 Fred Hazzard
 SV Fury
 C 44
 Portland, Or
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Boston - Doyle Sailmakers in Point Edward (beside Sarnia) Ontario are 
excellent sailmakers both for new and for service. They make em right 
there. Experienced and successful racers themselves, they do pretty much 
everything. No relation, just a satisfied customer of many years.



Steve Thomas
C MKIII Port Stanley, ON
C MKIMerritt Island, FL




 -- Original Message --
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: p...@seasource.ca
 Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 12:03 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Precision Sails


Lots of sailmakers in the Toronto area – UK, Doyle, North are the big 
ones, and a number of small ones!


And had a Haarstick genoa on our 27 great sail, cut at their Rochester 
loft. Assembles at their Hamilton Ontario affiliate (now Bay Sails)




From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 Sent: March 16, 2021 9:59 AM
 To: Stus-List 
 Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
 Subject: Stus-List Re: Precision Sails



Google-Fu shows three sailmakers in Toronto and three more in Victoria. 
There does appear to still be sailmakers in Canada. If you mean 
literally making sails from scratch, maybe not, but they still would 
repair sails  I would hope.

Joe
Coquina

Ps – anyone remember Haarstick sails? I still have some of their sails, 
back in the day we really liked them and the furling genoa they made for 
us was great. That thing was the equivalent of a car with 300,000 miles 
on it when it finally went to the great sail loft in the sky.







From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  >

 Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 8:01 AM
 To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 



 Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
 Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Precision Sails



The local loft is now closed- the last one in Canada I think  Right – 
Now where are you going to get your repairs done?

This is the problem, and why Local businesses matter.
UKNW in Sidney is still open, nice folks.


Bill Coleman
Erie, PA








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with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu






--



Joel



   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - Stu





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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I spent a couple of weeks doing a passage on a 1980-ish Baltic 39. Hull, 
rig, deck (except for the teak on top), Edson steering, etc., were all 
very C as far as I could see but the interior was not. It was like a 
rear-cabin C with a crosswise "hallway" at the forward end of the 
cabin. You had to climb over it to get into the main cabin which made 
the companionway steps very tall but it also made it safe from getting 
pooped. Nice boat.



Steve Thomas,
C MKIII, Port Stanley, ON
C MKI, Merritt Island, FL




 -- Original Message --
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
 Sent: Monday, February 22, 2021 9:14 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer

There was also a Baltic 42, same huss as the C 42 Custom.  I believe 
there was also a later version of the Baltic 42.



From: David Risch via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2021 8:17 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer


Baltic 39…sister to the C & C4 0


From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  >

Sent: Monday, February 22, 2021 7:03 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe  >

Subject: Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer


I am fascinated by all the different places C designs ended up. Didn’t 
Baltic make a C designed boat?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
   Thanks - Stu





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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Solar power literature will indicate that you can expect to get the equivalent 
of 6 hours per day of rated output on a clear summer's day, but that assumes 
that you have a fixed mount with the panels mounted facing south and at an 
angle approximating the latitude. My experience with 2 panels mounted flat on 
top of a bimini on a sailboat is half of that. Also, unless you are using an 
MPP (maximum power point) controller, the current rating of the panels is the 
only specification that matters in sizing. An MPP controller can deliver a few 
more amps by converting the power produced by the panels into power at the 
voltage required for charging the batteries at an improved efficiency as 
compared to a conventional controller which acts as a voltage limiter. MPP 
controllers can be thought of as DC transformers. 

Steve Thomas


 Dave S via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hello all,

Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's
off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and
potential top-up-charging.

Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively
contribute 400-500w daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend
my "off the grid" time.   I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto
area.

Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual charging
capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to factor this
into my decisions.

Many thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html


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Stus-List Nice Biographical Obit for Larry Pardey

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/08/28/obituaries/larry-pardey-dead.html?campaign_id=9=edit_nn_20200831_id=21770=the-morning_id=123101174_index=2_name=three_more_big_stories_id=37206=1_id=54d0c9d0953e8df7e834024853662ec3

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Re: Stus-List C MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The negative replies in the wooden boat thread don't seem to be all that 
specific to which species of locust they are talking about.

https://dirt.asla.org/2011/11/10/why-use-ipe-when-you-can-have-black-locust/

 Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List  wrote: 
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?164747-Black-Locust

On Tue, 1 Sep 2020, 09:18 Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
wrote:

> On the subject of wood choices:
>
> 1. Yes oak, but not red oak, which is the stuff most readily available
> around here. Red oak is not rot resistant.
>
> 2. I have recently found out that Black Locust is very hard and
> rot-resistant. I have a small tree which I have to take down but is don't
> know if it is large enough to produce wood with those characteristics. I
> need new handrails and I was thinking of using that. Does anyone know if it
> has to be heartwood or does that matter in the case of this species?
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>


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Re: Stus-List C MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

On the subject of wood choices:

1. Yes oak, but not red oak, which is the stuff most readily available around 
here. Red oak is not rot resistant. 

2. I have recently found out that Black Locust is very hard and rot-resistant. 
I have a small tree which I have to take down but is don't know if it is large 
enough to produce wood with those characteristics. I need new handrails and I 
was thinking of using that. Does anyone know if it has to be heartwood or does 
that matter in the case of this species? 



 Doug Robinson via CnC-List  wrote: 
Yep, been there, done that and got the T shirt.  First time I noted the 
problem was when attending my first Owners meeting Rob Mazza asked the 
assembled owners how many had replaced the mast step and six or eight 
hands went up.   OMG wots this?   Second time on Saturday Morning before 
heading out to the YYC Level regatta we couldn't get the rig to tune.  
Damn mast step collapsed so the racing crew hunkered the mast up and we 
unscrewed the block and ran off to Scotty our shipwright in the yard and 
of course he had a block of oak in inventory for just such an occasion.  
He and our ship's carpenter (and mainsail trimmer by avocation) slipped 
in the new block and screwed it in place. It was then we observed that 
he drilled a limber hole in the block under the mast and swaged in a 
stainless drain pipe with the end knurled over to drain the stuff that 
comes down the mast.  (Lesson #1).  Whole procedure took 45 minutes and 
we converted a DNS to a late start and DNF for the first race.  That was 
1990 and we have since replaced it again, this time soaking the block 
for months in preservation chemicals.  (Lesson #2)

The real problem comes when the stringers under the block collapse due 
to the fact that they are not encased in fiberglass on the bottom.  Then 
you have to cut out the cabin sole and re glass in new stringers (and 
upgrade the sole to a nicer teak and holley deck).  That project would 
be above my paygrade and I would have some of the C alumni in the club 
tackle that.  I have seen it done once in our yard.  Meantime make damn 
sure the bilge stays dry and fit a garboard plug to keep that way while 
up on the cradle for the winter.  (Lesson #3)

It's no big deal and we have had discussions about casting an aluminum 
pillow block but its just easier and faster to fit a new oak block.

Doug Robinson

On 8/31/20 1:41 PM, Lee Goss via CnC-List wrote:
> Dear C List members,
>
> I have a C MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the 
> mast sank about 4 or 5 inches!
>
> We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But 
> we won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.
>
> We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of 
> the season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best 
> way to do this?
>
> Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast 
> step or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate 
> it. At this point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't 
> know precisely what we're going to need to make the repair.
>
> For reference: here's photos of the damage: 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA
>
> Many thanks in advance for any help.
> Lee


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Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Do the IPads run OSX? If so then OpenCPN is a free chart plotter app that 
supports AIS. As Ed pointed out, you still have to get the AIS data onto the 
wifi somehow. The AIS in radio approach simplifies installation and antenna 
systems no matter what you intend to use for a primary display. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI

 ed vanderkruk via CnC-List  wrote: 
Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts.
iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays -
iRegatta has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data
there over WiFi.

Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the
> laptop I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and
> thought I would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face
> time.  I assume it is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.


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Re: Stus-List Head faucet/shower replacement...

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 Dave, 
Binnacle, in Nova Scotia, stocks several which should fit right in. 
I have bought lots of stuff from them over the years with no problem. They ship 
to both Canada and the United States and list prices in both currencies. I have 
no business or other relationship with them, except as a happy customer. 

https://ca.binnacle.com/

Steve Thomas
C MKIII - Ontario
C MK1 - Florida


 David Risch via CnC-List  wrote: 
To replace my head faucet is a major PIA.  I would like to replace the 
faucet/fixture which attached to chromed hose.  Cannot find it alone.  Any one 
else find one?

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.



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Re: Stus-List Cozy Cabin Heater Install examples?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Looks about right to me.  I have seen similar installs in essentially the same 
location on several boats. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI
Ontario and Florida

 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi All,
I have purchased and I am planning my install of a Dickinson Cozy Cabin
Heater (propane) on our C 30 mk II. We are not liveaboards, but we do use
our boat year round here in the PNW and I miss being able to anchor on cold
weekend nights due to a lack of an efficient heat source. Thus the Cozy
Cabin. (Please save the safety lecture if you are so inclined as the
fixture does have a low oxygen shut off and a flame out gas shut off. We
have CO2 alarms, propane sniffer, and always have hatches cracked.)
I am planning on installing it on the starboard side, forward bulkhead. I
am plotting the location of the exhaust port and I think I am going to go
more or less straight up and then angle to starboard so in theory, end up
with the exhaust port co-planar with the cabin trunk. I welcome other's
input however. I do not like drilling a hole in my cabin top, but it is an
~ 30 yr old boat and life is too short to stay in the marina! See pictures
here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2cpqVEfyLZ2B8EoP6


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Stus-List Wally Bryant considering shutting down his Facebook page

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

As you probably know, Wally shut down his web page a couple of years ago after 
people wanted him to make it phone-friendly and it was too much work. He did 
set up a Facebook page. If you want him to keep it going you had better let him 
know. 

Most of us have learned by vicarious experience from his well-documented refit 
and I for one sure wish he was able to keep the website going. If the Facebook 
page goes, well that is it. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C MKI 

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Re: Stus-List Edson Engineering Bulletin Thanks

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks Stu and Chuck. 

Chuck speaks the truth about the Morse cables. If they are getting tight, you 
do need to replace them. Nothing else works and in all probability, you will be 
surprised at the improvement. I had owned my 1978 27 for more than 15 years 
when I finally replaced the shifter cable and what a difference! It had always 
been stiff and I thought that it was the transmission. It was not. Just do it. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII, Ontario
C MKI, Florida

 Stu via CnC-List  wrote: 
Here is the link to the Edson Engineering Bulletin:

http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/EB%20236%20ENGINE%20CONTROL%20727%20and%20728.pdf

Enjoy

Stu

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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Question

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I don't have a built-in AC but my Florida C 36 was horribly damaged as a 
result of humidity neglect when I bought it. Part of the solution when I am not 
south is a small dehumidifier which drains into the galley sink. My neighbour 
sets it down on the cabin sole and secures it, among other things, when there 
is a hurricane coming. There is a minimum 15 dollar charge for electricity at 
the marina and between the 30-pint high-efficiency dehumidifier and the battery 
charger for the bilge pump the boat has yet to exceed that minimum. 
Your mileage may vary. 

Steve Thomas
C Merritt Island, FL
C Port Stanley, ON


 Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote: 
Listers,

For those of you who are in warmer climates and have air conditioning in their 
C, when you are away from the boat and plugged in to shore power, do you 
leave your AC running in cool mode or in moisture/dehumidify mode? 

All the best, 

Edd


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 I have not tried the "Bed it" brand recommended by others, but I will when I 
find some. The stuff sold by Westmarine is useable but not the same quality as 
that used on our boats originally. Forget about the Homedepot stuff, tried that 
as well. 

I left a roll of butyl tape in the boat in a cupboard under the side deck and 
the heat from the sun melted it so that it does not release from the paper. 
Makes it a PITA to use when that happens. Store it in a more or less cool 
place. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C  

 cscheaffer via CnC-List  wrote: 
I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is 
best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C during 
the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody 
have opinions on Butyl being better?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Hasps

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The Perko hasp on my companionway hatch disintegrated and I was going to 
replace it with stainless but had trouble finding one the right length. All 
Westmarine had were shorter ones, and that was mostly what I found online as 
well. Eventually I stumbled on an exact replacement and ordered that. Not 
interested in drilling new holes either. Mine, the original and the new 
replacement, appear to be chrome plated zinc alloy. Certainly not bronze. 

Steve Thomas
Locked down in Ontario

 David Risch via CnC-List  wrote: 
So I have these pitted Perko chrome hasps.  Since I do not like to throw things 
out if they can be refreshed, I was wondering if anyone has had success sanding 
and repainting/refinishing them...

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.



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Re: Stus-List Insurance Broker

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Progressive charges a lot more in Florida, at least they do me, and that is 
with the boat in a well-protected and inland marina. Maryland has a lower risk 
of hurricanes and that makes a difference. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL 

 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote: 
Is someone paying $3,000 for insurance? Yikes!

I am paying about $600 for THREE boats full coverage with Progressive. 
IIRC, declared value of $25K on Coquina and $1500 each for the dinghy 
and the Whaler.

Joe

Coquina C 35 MK I Kent Island MD USA


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Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

A friend of mine in Florida told me 2 days ago that snowbirds and others 
attempting to sail north up the east coast were running into problems because 
of all the marinas that were refusing transients dockage. Doesn't seem right. 
They didn't close all the hotels and motels on the motorways. 

Steve Thomas

 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote: 
As of 1 hour ago my marina is the same - they are "closed to the 
public", the public does not include boat owners, and they'll talk to 
you on the phone or from 10 feet away if you make them come out. There 
is no real way to physically keep people out if they really want to get in.

I have no idea how the live-aboards are dealing with the communal bath 
house issue, I 'll be using my own head for now!

Joe

Coquina C 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Covid 19 - 14 day quarantine

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Glad you made it home safe.
We're all in this (apart) together!

Steve

 Stu via CnC-List  wrote: 
I crossed back into Canada yesterday and am now under mandatory 14 day 
quarantine.  No contact with any other person.  I was told I could not stop and 
get gas, groceries or booze on the way home.  Thank God the kids came over and 
stocked my fridge.

If my quarantine helps stop the spread of the virus, I’ll be happy to stay home.

Stu

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Stus-List Lewmar winch sale

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

For anyone contemplating new winches that is not already inundated with their 
advertising, you should know that WestMarine is having a buy one get one free 
sale on Lewmar winches and handles. Ends on the 9th. 

I have no connection with WestMarine except that I have spent way too much 
money there. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List winterizing a 29-2

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I run engine coolant antifreeze through the engine and the head. Alcohol-based 
antifreeze is hard on rubber parts and seals. 

I used to use plumbing antifreeze (rated for potable water systems) in the 
onboard water supply system but found it difficult to eliminate the smell/taste 
afterwards. Now when I do it, I use a shop vac to suck the lines dry and run 
the water pump into the vac as well. 

Steve Thomas
On the hard in Ontario

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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?)

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 I am usually in Florida in February, so I am interested, even if I have to 
drive to the "other" side. (From the Space Coast.)

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, Fl

 Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote: 
Listers,

There appears to be some interest in a winter rendezvous in sunny Florida — 
here are a few thoughts:

1. As you know, Florida has two coasts, east and west, with the Enterprise and 
Water Phantom on the west coast (35 miles apart) and some others on the east 
coast. I think the idea of having an actual boat rendezvous in a place that is 
reachable for people to sail to is pretty slim. I also know of three other C 
in the gulf coast and Tampa Bay areas.  

2. Because we all boat here year-round (suck it, northerners!) marina space for 
more than a handful of boats seems to be a stretch. Then again, see #1 above. 

3. That being said, I could organize a C Owners’ Rendezvous in Sarasota (even 
at my club in Venice), Tampa, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, or other such place that 
could be an easy drive or flight.

I welcome everyone’s (even David Risch’s) thoughts and then I’ll put out a 
survey. Should we have a owners’ rendezvous, what kinds of things would you 
like the group to do (You know, besides eat and drink) — seminar, guest 
speaker, etc.?  

If we were to do something in the Venice - Sarasota - Tampa - Clearwater area, 
I’m sure we could get the Enterprise and Water Phantom, and perhaps one or two 
more, to a location. I am confident that I can organize hotel (or hotel 
options) and a place for us to meet as I do marketing and event planning for a 
living.

Warning though -- I understand in February it can be a little chilly here, with 
highs in the mid 70s. Br. (Insert evil laugh here.)  

Chime in, folks. Please. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Ok, so I have read the other responses and what your experience means to me is 
that you have been doing this with reasonably good batteries and or older 
battery chargers. I too have never had a problem with the charger in a boat but 
I have personally killed 4 or 5 of the modern chargers with electronic voltage 
regulation by attempting to start cars and tractors with the chargers still 
hooked up. Here is what I think is happening: When the starter relay opens the 
starter motor circuit, there is a high voltage inductive kick-back from the 
collapsing magnetic field in the motor that is "clamped" to a lower voltage by 
the low impedance through a good battery. If because of a bad battery or wiring 
or whatever that energy is not clamped down to a low enough voltage then it 
kills the voltage regulator electronics. The rectifier diodes themselves have 
survived. I have installed a shorting wire around the circuit board in a couple 
of the affected chargers and they still work but they are anything but 
regulated now. 

A suitably large rectifier diode installed across the starter motor could 
prevent this from happening. 

Steve Thomas



 Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote: 
Listers,

I’m seeing conflicting opinions on the web and would like to know from the 
collected wisdom of the group. 

Is it OK or not OK to start your engine while your battery charger is running? 

I was surprised to see some people say it is not, as people have been 
jump-starting their car engines for decades, but am interested in seeing what 
you all have to say on this. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Yes there is most likely a problem with your voltage regulator, but in the 
absence of other information, you don't know for certain. One other thing that 
just might be going on is very low output caused by poor contact between the 
brushes and the slip rings. If there is lots of current available to charge the 
battery when mostly depleted, but only up to 12.6 volts, then regulator it is. 

Steve Thomas
Yanmar YSB12
Yanmar 3HM35F
Way too many other vehicles. 

 Dave S via CnC-List  wrote: 
Thanks Neil - and yes sounds similar.  I have the smaller acr which has 
on-board led indicators.   I gather you needed the larger unit for a higher 
output alternator.
According to the support docs, the charge source has to exceed 13.7 v for a 
period of time for the batteries to combine.  On the shore charger the 
batteries see 14.28 v from the charger, and settle at 13.2v fully charged, as 
do yours. 
Here’s the installation:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
I missed and will add the ability to monitor the voltage on the start battery, 
this will give all the necessary info.
Off to the alternator shop...

Dave. 

Sent from my iPhone



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Stus-List Deck anti algae treatment

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

This must have come up on the list before, but I can't remember it. Does anyone 
know of, or was there ever any consensus on what might be used in the Florida 
climate to retard the future growth of algae on the deck once it has been 
scrubbed clean? 

Thanks in advance, 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

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Stus-List Split propeller coupling

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Anyone have any experience using a split propeller coupling? 
Looks like a neat solution to the jamming problems associated with the 
traditional couplings. 
Might also be less likely to work loose when recently assembled.  

This is what I am looking at: 

https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboard-shafts-and-couplings/RD-Split-Couplings/202-254


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C 


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Fred has a good point and I would point out that the reason for diode isolators 
is so that the warning lights remain independent. This can be easily 
accomplished with inline diodes soldered in series with each wire to the 
buzzer. I purchased a very loud alarm/siren from Radio Shack and wired it to 
the back of the panel. It was so light that I left it supported by the wiring. 
There was no need for any new holes, it is plenty loud enough to be heard from 
where it is. I wired my inputs from the idiot lights. Has worked fine for many 
years now. 

Steve Thomas
Still freezing in Ontario.


 Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote: 
Keep in mind that the piezo alarms used in the Yanmar engines have diode 
circuitry built into them to allow multiple senders to be attached without them 
interacting; you’re not going to find this in anything from DigiKey.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 14, 2019, at 1:55 AM, sender via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> John:
> For electronic items have a look at Digikey.com I've sourced parts from them 
> found them efficient.
> 
> $75.00 for a decent quality panel mount buzzer that's waterproof doesn't 
> sound unreasonable to me.  A circuit board mountable buzzer element will be 
> cheap, but then you have a project to make it otherwise suitable.
> 
> Eric
> 
> On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 11:16 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Ours has given up the ghost (gee it’s only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi WI 
> 1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.  4 
> pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the Yanmar 
> 3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16”hole.  Issue is locating one of these – 
> with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.  Found one on 
> flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single purpose piezo buzzer 
> for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.
> 
>  
> 
> Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 



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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Shawn, 
  One of the boats you mention as possible candidates is a CS30. I 
have considerable experience on a friend's CS30, and I can tell you that they 
are great boats, well constructed, and eminently suitable both for PHRF racing 
and couple-of-week cruises. They are very similar to a CS33 in creature comfort 
but they will save you money in marina fees. The main difference I have found 
between them and the C's in sailing characteristics is a much greater 
tendency to round up in a puff, (say 30 knots), so you learn to reef the main 
first and early. All mainsail control lines are factory led to the cockpit 
which is a nice feature as well. You only need to go forward to hook the tack 
reef points. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C


 Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings
around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and
walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island,
that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard.
There are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what
I want yet, so the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and
usually just out of my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS
36T. The CS 36T I have not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby,
and the interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much less common
here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like
$30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...

The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says
it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he
won't drop the price...
There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common
that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.

I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I have
only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must.
Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas
that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that
usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD.

But I am learning at lot along the way. :)

Thanks

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.
>
> This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling
> recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live
> to look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting
> how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just
> gone to a used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you
> can learn a lot walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
> calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid
> to show boats. Get your short list figured out, buy the first boat that
> meets your requirements and price point. Go sailing.
>
> For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and
> went through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make
> the effort. First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage
> off, it was a hard decision.
>
> Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless, and
> jealous :)
>
> If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C 32.
> And they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great
> PHRF boats and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great
> handling, and sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine
> was a 1980, later ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for
> 18k, sold for 25k five years later (and many, many boat bucks of investment
> and hours of work later - and cruises all over Lake Ontario and Georgian
> Bay). I sold a turn-key boat with new sails, solar panels, electrical,
> plumbing, etc etc etc.
>
> FWIW
>
> Steve
>
>

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Condition is everything, and that is not a high price for a reasonably 
well-equipped boat in good condition, especially in BC where prices are 
generally higher, most likely due to the absurd cost of housing. 

Steve Thomas
C 27MKIII
C 36 

 Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:

Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).

The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178

Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.

Thanks

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com


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Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

No recording seems to be available at the playback number using that access 
code. Is more information required?

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

 David via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 I don't know if C used exactly the same stuffing box on every boat that they 
built with a 1" shaft, and I don't know how a boat owner could know for certain 
in all circumstances whether or not the box in their boat is original equipment 
even if they did. I do know that stuffing boxes made for the same diameter prop 
shaft and prop log tube do not all have the same inside diameter for the 
packing, and therefore require different packing sizes. This I discovered when 
I replaced the stuffing box on my C a couple of years ago. I also selected 
packing that was too small at first. The correct size is whatever the gap is 
between the prop shaft and the ID of the stuffing box. No other size is going 
to work properly. 

One other thing. If you do select flax packing, make sure that you do not over 
tighten it, and especially on first installation. Flax swells a little bit when 
wet, and that can take a few days. It is a mistake to tighten the packing nut 
on a boat that has been on the hard over winter just because it leaks a little 
in the spring. My C leaks when first splashed every year, but the leaking 
stops after a day or two. I adjusted the nut once in the past 17 years and I am 
not certain that it was really necessary even then. 

Steve Thomas
On the hard in Ontario

 robert via CnC-List  wrote: 
> "Any one else with an early 80's 34' and a 1 inch shaft want to tell 
> what size packing they use."

Don,
I have 1984 C 32 with a 1" prop shafttypical stuffing 
boxreplaced with 3/16"3 strandsfirst two strands went in but 
when I put in the 3rd strand, I couldn't not thread the nuttoo 
tightso I took out the 3rd strand and put the nut on and tighten it 
to compress the first two strands and then put the 3rd strand back in 
and I could then put the nuts together.

My point is 3 strands of 3/16th on my 1" shaft is what worked for me.

Any particular reason you used 1/4' packing and not 3/16th?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Merriman Holbrook Hydraulic Backstay Data

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Yes, I know that it is old, but it appears to be in excellent condition. In 
fact, it looks new except for the gauge. I have searched the internet over the 
past few days, and found almost nothing online, mainly a few bits about the 
history of the company and the fact that it folded over 30 years ago. Too old 
to have much technical data posted on the internet I guess. It sure appears to 
be very well built. 

"Hydrastay" is marked inside the gauge along with company identification and it 
is marked up to 7300 pounds. The body is square at the bottom and the cylinder 
is round. 5011 is stamped in large characters on the bottom and appears to be 
the model number. The only thing missing is the handle. 

If anyone has an owners manual and/or other data that you are willing to make 
available, I sure would appreciate it. 

Thanks in advance. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration insulation upgrade C?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The fibreglass outer shell on the icebox of my C is not moulded as part of 
the liner, but appears to be held down with screws in the same manner as the 
bench seating in the cabin. Has anyone attempted to take this apart? Were you 
successful? What was involved in getting the top off? If this is doable without 
causing major destruction it would be the most effective way to improve the 
insulation.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, Fla

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing water system

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Shop vac has worked good for me. I found the rv alcohol antifreeze left a 
residual taste that was hard to clear, and I suspected that it was hard on 
rubber parts in the pump. Same idea as compressed air I guess, but suck instead 
of blow. Still have to pay attention to potential blockage by pumps and valves 
of course. Due dilligence. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley,ON

 Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List  wrote: 
I agree for the tank. Just letting it drain should be fine. It’s the running 
antifreeze through the rest of the system that’s throwing me. Today I did blast 
the tank with a compressor and more water came out so I  like doing that. Just 
letting it drain wasn’t 100 percent, but likely good enough. 

I traced the hosing some. Too many disappear below the hot water tank to have a 
full picture. A saw a puddle of antifreeze there but could get to it. It makes 
sense to connect the input and outputs of the tank together but it didn’t work. 
I think the water pressure pump feeds a T that then runs to the cold on the 
galley sink. I think there is another T there which probably feeds the hand 
shower in the head. The hot water does the same thing. So connecting tank out 
to the T at the input of the tank should pump water, antifreeze, to both 
endpoints. But it’s not happening. 

For this season, given my failure, I am hoping just draining and pulling 
antifreeze through the hand and foot pumped lines will be enough. So far can’t 
figure it out. 

Matthew
The Office
C 35 Mk III

Sent from my iPhone


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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 I'll second the ATN mast climber. It works well enough once you get the hang 
of it but unless you are fairly athletic, be prepared to make rest stops. It is 
more of an upper body workout than it appears in the video. 

Steve Thomas 

 "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  wrote: 
If you plan to routinely climb solo, you may want to invest in an ATN mast 
climbing bosun’s chair.

From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

That boat - easier to take the mast down.


Sent from my iPhone



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Re: Stus-List Propeller Sizing

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

You are getting about what you should expect from that engine and boat 
combination, so the propeller can't be too far away from optimum. Sailboats 
equipped with Atomic 4s were typically equipped with a 2 blade fixed prop, 12" 
in diameter by 6" pitch. The relatively shallow pitch as compared to a small 
diesel is due to the lack of gear reduction in the transmission. All else being 
equal, a larger diameter is more efficient, but the pitch might have to be 
reduced to match the torque available from the motor. I have a Gori folding 
prop on my 27 and I am quite happy with it. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


 David Morris via CnC-List  wrote: 
I determined at haulout this weekend our newly-acquired 1975 C 30 MKI,
Atomic 4, direct drive is equipped with a Gori two-blade folding prop,
measuring approx. 11.5". I have neither the experience or expertise to know
if this is a great prop for the boat, a lousy one, or, more likely,
somewhere in between. After a major tune-up on the engine, we seemed to be
able to run at around 6.2 knots in relatively calm water. Any advice,
suggestions, observations anyone would care to offer on prop selection would
be much appreciated.

 

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


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Stus-List End of season on Lake Erie

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 The first week in October was great weather wise. Not so much the rest of the 
month. Hauled the C MKIII yesterday. So much for Lake Erie and her 
"variable" weather conditions this year. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII - Lake Erie
C - Florida

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Re: Stus-List C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I don't know if this is brand-specific, or which brands were involved, but 
while I had my boat hauled out and was in the process of making a decision on 
what to do about the packing gland on my boat, 2 boats in the same marina had 
serious leaks due to broken graphite parts in their dripless packings. One of 
them sank and the other managed to get hauled out in time. I did not know that 
such a catastrophic and sudden failure mode even existed up til then. No vendor 
or manufacturer's literature that I had seen even mentioned such a possibility. 
How such an event could be handled at sea I did not know. Anyway, it freaked me 
out and I decided to install a new conventional packing gland instead. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII - Ontario
C - Florida


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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

When you say that you put in the "correct" amount of oil when you changed it, 
did you fill it so that the oil level was in the correct range on the dipstick 
at that time? This was before or after your trip? 
Splashing oil on the dipstick by cranking the engine tells you almost nothing, 
or did you mean that the dipstick reads correctly from that point forward until 
you start the engine again? i.e. wipe off the dipstick with a rag, put it in, 
take it out, read the level, and it is ok?  If not then the level is too low, 
unless you really believe that you have the wrong dipstick. If it were me, I 
would not make that assumption. 
Blue smoke normally means that the engine is burning lubricating oil, so it is 
reasonable to expect the oil level to drop after a long run under that 
condition. The good news is that if an engine has been sitting for a long time, 
it may burn oil for a while until the rings loosen up and re-seat, and then run 
with little or no visible smoke. Fresh oil helps too, of course, and you say 
that the smoke situation has improved, so it should burn less oil in the 
future.   

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

 Glenn Henderson via CnC-List  wrote: 
>
> I have a 3JH4E on my 41. Strangely, after the engine sits, the dipstick
> for the oil reads nothing unless I "bump" the starter. Then it reads
> normal. I changed the filter and the oil so I know there is the proper
> amount of oil. It just freaks me out to see a dry dipstick after running
> the engine a lot. Has any one else experienced this?
>

Also, I have a light blue (not much) smoke in operation. I added the proper
amount of "Gumount" fuel additive and it stops. I wonder if that is telling
me anything?  I just bought the boat in May and sailed it to Tampa Bay
using the engine quite a bit and she did great.

Glenn Henderson

C 41 WeGo


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Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I don't see the point in changing to all rope on a cruising boat with roller 
furling. Set it and forget it, and no worries about chafe or UV degradation up 
at the top. Wire lasts longer than anything in that sort of service. 

Steve Thomas

C
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Gary Nylander via CnC-List  wrote: 
I have raced on a couple of J-80’s and now on a C All have rope – all 
have furlers, and they don’t take anything down during the season.

Don’t see a problem.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

Is rope suitable for furling sails that might not come down more than once a 
year?

 

Coquina

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Gary Nylander  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

I switched from wire/rope to rope without a problem. 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list  >
Cc: Joel Aronson  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

If there are rough spots on the sheaves they need to be replaced before 
switching.  Also, you need to make sure the sheave is wide enough for the rope 
you want to use.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:47 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

My jib halyard is shot. I always assumed I needed another wire/rope because the 
sheaves are made for wire and would damage an all rope halyard.

Is this wrong?

 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Neil Andersen  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

Bruce,

 

First thing is to replace the wire/rope with all rope.

 

Neil

1982 C

Rock Hall, MD

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

If your boat still has the right sheaves, then wire and rope combination 
halyards are still a viable  option. There is very little stretch and polyester 
has the best hand in my opinion. No issues to speak of with eye splices either. 
Also relatively low cost. 

Steve Thomas

C
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C 37/40+.  We've owned the boat for about a year.  The 
halyards are badly faded from the sun, and we noticed an area where the core is 
showing at the eye splice around the shackles.  The current halyards are 
Sta-Set X.
We don't race, so super high-tech line is unnecessary, but that doesn't mean I 
want have to re-tension the halyards when I'm sailing, either.  

On my last boat (a C 27 MKIII), I tried the Sta-Set X 15 years ago or so, and 
didn't like the feel, and I think I remember the line slipping in the clutches 
as well.   That has not been the case on this boat, but the line is old...
I've seen some recommendations for NE Ropes VPC.

What do you recommend for halyards and why?
Thanks!  
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL 34677
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List Barient winch parts

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I got a pair of self tailing "jaws" from these guys. Shipped through the post, 
which was not cheap or fast, but they did get here and no one else had what I 
needed. 

http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares

Steve Thomas

C
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote: 
In cleaning and lubing my barient winches I found one with the self tailer 
tension screws broken. Does any one know where the might be found? I need 
minimum 2 screws and 2 springs for a 21ST. I haven't checked to see if they are 
the same size on all of my winches. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How do you tow your Dinghy and bring it aboard

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Friend of mine lost a brand new dingy by towing it tight to the transom in a 
blow off of Nova Scotia. Once the weather picked up there was no way to change 
his mind. It was 5 years ago now and I don't remember what it was that came 
apart, but he did try to secure it better somehow while under way. I can't say 
that there is no way to secure it so that would not have happened just because 
I don't know how, but I am saying that he thought he had it done right and he 
lost his dingy. I do know that they take less of a beating up on on the 
foredeck with the cow, and outside of protected waters or a very reliable 
forecast, that is what I do. 
Your mileage may vary...

Steve Thomas

 Daniel Cormier via CnC-List  wrote: 
Thanks everyone for the tips! :) I think we'll tow with the dinghy bow up on 
the transom and use the spin halyard to lift it on the foredeck.
Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 13, 2018, at 12:36 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We have a couple of cam cleats I installed on the aft coaming, same system we 
> used on the 29-2. After 20-odd years of doing this, including going around 
> Vancouver Island, we have had zero problems. This makes it really easy to 
> control which side the dinghy rides to and changing line length for best 
> wave-riding is a snap. We do tie the bitter end of the painter off to a cleat 
> just in case...
> I could use the spin halyard to hoist our old slat-floor Zodiac onto the 
> foredeck, probably use the same for our new air-floor Zodiac. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 11 May 2018 at 15:03, Ainslie via CnC-List  wrote:
>> We towed our 10’ dinghy home when we bought Spirit, an ’84 35 MkIII. Started 
>> past Pickering on Lake Ontario and ended at Bayfield, halfway up Lake Huron. 
>> The total trip including the canal was about 900 km. The only time we had to 
>> hoist it aboard was to transit the Welland Canal.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We looped a dockline with a snubber from the aft port cleat to the aft 
>> starboard cleat for some shock absorption, then ran the tow line to the bow 
>> hook on the fibreglass bottom of the dink. We adjusted it to ride the first 
>> wave astern, and it towed like a champ. Last year when we visited the North 
>> Channel, the Admiral filled it with pretty rocks – probably a few hundred 
>> pounds of Canadian Shield – and it towed even better. There is a cost, 
>> however. Under sail, we estimated we gave up two knots of boat speed due to 
>> the drag.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>> 
>> 1984 C 35-3
>> 
>> Bayfield, ON
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: May-11-18 1:00 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Dan
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: How do you tow your Dinghy and bring 
>> it aboard
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yikes... ok, that makes a lot of sense. I think I can do a bow-up towing 
>> method, espically with the reverse transom...I can probably get a painter 
>> line to my toe rail as well where we have the same type (with the holes).
>> 
>> Lifting the dinghy vertically using a halyard also seems much more practical 
>> than attempting to use the boom which would just make things more difficult.
>> 
>> Thanks guys!
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 1:43 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I have a 12 foot RIB. We tow it with a line fastened to the aft end of the 
>> port toe rail. The 35  MK I has the rail with holes every few inches the 
>> length of the boat.
>> 
>> The dinghy cannot be brought aboard, there is no place it could fit and it 
>> is heavy.
>> 
>> Warning : Non-RIB inflatables may not tow well to say the least unless you 
>> hoist the bow out of the water. Our old flat floor inflatable would dive 
>> underwater if flat-towed.
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 12:33 PM
>> To: CnClist
>> Cc: Dennis C.
>> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List How do you tow your Dinghy and bring it 
>> aboard
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We tow our 9'6" inflatable astern either on a short painter or bow up on the 
>> second stern wave.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We hoist it with a spinnaker halyard and place it on the foredeck for 
>> transits or long term stowage.  I can hoist it singlehanded.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> 
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 11:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> We JUST bought our first dinghy and it's time to figure out how to have it 
>> interact with the mothership...
>> 
>> No Davits...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We have a 1986 C (with the ridiculously long reversed transom)... There 
>> is no obvious towing fitting around the transom other than a 

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

One other thing on packing, for those who do a seasonal haul out. Don't freak 
out if there is a fair amount of water coming in around the packing in the 
spring, so long as you haven't monkeyed with the stuffing box over the winter. 
Give it a day or two before you decide to move the packing nut. If it was not 
leaking in the fall, give the flax some time to absorb some water, and the leak 
will usually stop. Over tightening is usually what wears it out, so long as 
there are no major mechanical problems that lead to excessive vibration and so 
forth. 

Steve Thomas

C
C MKIII

PS: 3/16 shaft packing will work for the piston rod on the old WC heads that 
many of our boats came equipped with. Cheaper than buying a whole kit, and even 
those are getting hard to find. 



 john sandford via CnC-List  wrote: 
 

Hi Jason,

Coincidentally, I had the same thing this spring.

Completely removed the shaft log, cleaned it up, and replaced the hose and
clamps. (Buck Algonquin – Don’t ship it by FedEx BTW)

Partly as it was on the ‘to do’ list, and partly because of a new shaft
(1-1/8”) and prop.

The original packing was simply wound around in a one piece spiral BUT it
worked like that for 30+ years.

Didn’t measure the size of what came out….my bad.

Same thing as you, I used a calliper, did the math, bought ¼”.

When I tried to fit the packing in the nut, it would not go without a fight.
I had to beat it into a rectangle, and then I only got 3 pieces in, as I had
reduced the width, but then increased the height.

A smaller packing would have gone in easier and after tightening the nut,
the opposite occurred. I.e. increased the width, but reduced the height.
3/16 I should have used, and  is now in my parts list going forward.

As for the concern over 3 turns being enough. 

If the shaft log is 12” below WL, then the pressure on the packing is about
0.5 PSI.

(An Engineer would give you 86 decimal places but directionally for every 2
ft head = 1 PSIG)

So the pressure is irrelevant/diddley squat , we are not dealing with a
through hull on Das Boot.

3 turns  vs. 5 turns vs. 1 turn is irrelevant as long as it does the job.

What IS important are the arrangement of the packing cuts and the tightness
of the nut.

Arrangement;

Second Ring = 180 deg to the first

Third Ring = 60 degrees to the second

Subsequent rings = 60 degrees to the previous.

Tightness;

ALWAYS have a drip coming in. This will primarily indicate that you have a
clearance of some kind that will prevent overheating of the shaft.

If you don’t have a drip, then you have no indication of the tightness range
which could be anywhere from; “Just above a drip” to “I’m going to generate
enough heat to either burn the packing or destroy the shaft” or both.

I don’t know much about a lot of other tech stuff,  but shafting,
mechanical,  etc.  Yes I do.

 As a Marine Engineer , (an old one) I was trained on a ship with 42,000
SHP, 36” shaft and 4” square Flax packing. Took a full few days to clean out
the old and fit new. (in Dry-dock of course)  The above  installation
procedure was basic and the drip was checked every 2 hrs when underway.
(Don’t want to replace a burnt 36” shaft.)

Submitted with respect of the knowledge/experience of others

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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Re: Stus-List AIS receiver for sale

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I would like to have it Joe. 
I will send you a private email. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

 "Della Barba wrote: 
I have a Nobeltec AIS receiver I bought to troubleshoot my AIS transceiver 
installation. It is all working fine now, so if anyone wants it $50 shipped to 
USA. Canada I might need to add a few bucks depending on the post office.
It is *receive only* and has a serial port connection.

Joe
Coquina



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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks for the update Tim.
Disappointing news about Kracor.
Typical unfortunately of what happens when a small company is taken over by a 
large corporation. 

I have observed that the flat tops on the fairly thin roto-moulded tanks bulge 
quite a bit when full, and I have not been successful in stopping the 
clean-outs from leaking either. Like you, I have reached the conclusion that 
this is just a design "feature". I thought about lubricating the O rings, but 
couldn't think of anything that I wanted to have in contact with drinking 
water. 

Steve Thomas
C 
Merritt Island, FL

 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote: 
Just to report back on this thread, what follows is my twisted 11-week path
to resolution of a crack in one of my water tanks plus hairline cracks
around the inspection ports, and difficulty getting a good seal on the
Quest fittings on both tanks:

Kracor initially said that they could quote replacement roto-molded tanks,
but when it came down to it, they have been acquired by Yamaha and will now
only quote large quantity orders.

South Shore Yachts was able to quote new tanks from a third party but at
over $1000 each, plus shipping to Florida, seemed cost prohibitive.

Ultimately, I used a Florida tank manufacturer & repair facility, Seelye
Inc., in Ocoee, FL to repair the crack in the tank. The cost to weld an
8-inch crack was $65. They tested it to be leak free but there is no
warranty.

On reassembly, I had trouble getting a seal around the suction fittings,
which are Qest elbows, but found that if I first connected the tubing to
the fitting and then screwed it in, I could get another couple of turns on
the fitting. Both tanks are essentially leak-free except for a little
weeping around the inspection ports if overfilled. I plan to avoid
overfilling.

While at it I also replaced the 4" o-rings on the tank ports (AS568-240),
and on the old-style Jabsco suction strainers (AS568-131) and installed a
Teflon back-up ring (AS568-007) under the strainer cover screw heads.

Now on to the next adventure...

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C 36' - #244



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Re: Stus-List C 36 Head Port Light Replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Agree, it is Beckson. 

I replaced the screen and seal on mine. Got the parts from West Marine. 

Steve Thomas
1980 C
Merritt Island, FL

 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote: 
Beckson. Probably a 410. The name should be embossed on the frame and
dimensions will identify the model. http://www.beckson.com/ports.html

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


On Tue, Mar 27, 2018 at 9:43 PM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Needing to replace the port light in the head of my '79 C 36. Does
> anyone have experience with this/found a suitable replacement? Looking at
> Lewmar but would need to retrofit. Not sure what brand the OEM part was.


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Stus-List oarlocks for old style Zodiac

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 I have a very old orange and black Zodiac that is still in good shape, but 
when I bought it there were no oarlocks. There are a couple of mounting "ears" 
made of the same fabric as the boat, but I have not been able to find oarlocks 
that match that style of mounting anywhere online. The fabric pieces are 10 by 
4.5 inches with well rounded corners. not really an oval, more like a rectangle 
with rounded ends. A longitudinal section 1.5 inches wide down the centre is 
glued to the tube, inline with the tubes, leaving an "ear" about 9 inches long 
and an inch and a quarter or so wide down each side. There are a couple of very 
small holes, but that is it for clues. I have not even been able to find an 
image of something with that sort of mount. 

Anyone know what sort of oarlock would have been mounted on these?

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List EBAY FIND AIS

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Pretty sure I paid over $300 for mine. 
How quickly things change. 

Steve Thomas

 Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote: 
I have a GX2150 slightly used available, if anyone’s interested — you pay 
shipping and donate $35.00 to Stu, and it’s yours.  You will need to have 
Standard Horizon reprogram the MMSI, however.

— Fred

Frederick G Street
13925 277th Ave
Zimmerman MN   55398

f...@postaudio.net
612.839.6565 cell

> On Jan 11, 2018, at 5:58 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Someone may want to jump on this:
> ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Horizon-Matrix-AIS-GX2100-VHF-FM-Radio-25-Watt-Transceiver/173083140975?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49454%26meid%3D36907f3d84164f10a83caed154544c52%26pid%3D100656%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2481888.c100656.m5063&_trkparms=pageci%253A040ab1bb-f70b-11e7-88a5-74dbd18033d7%257Cparentrq%253Ae6d56a271600a86659d74291ffdd0511%257Ciid%253A2
>  
> 


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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Same problem on my 36. Many leaking cracks. No reason to believe that welding 
them would not just result in new ones. Probably will try it anyway, but no 
confidence long term. Low molecular weight polyethylene. 
Space is narrow, long, and triangular. 
Not found a bladder tank that would be a good fit. Seems to me that an over 
large tank folded into the space would be a recipe for failure due to abrasion. 
Did Kracor give any guidance on their price?

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, Fl

 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote: 
Both 19 gallon tanks, port and starboard, are leaking in multiple
locations. They are vee-bottom four sided tanks with recesses in the top
where stiffeners under the cover plate fit. I tried plastic welding but the
results were questionable in terms of reliability.

The manufacturer, Kracor, says new ones can be made to order in 3-4 weeks
if I contact a local boat yard to place the order. This sounds expensive
and cumbersome.

What are my other options? Is it easy to contact a local tank company and
have a tank copied at a competitive cost and reasonable lead-time?

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


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Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Not that simple. 
You also need to know the compressed gas pressure, and apply the Charles and 
Boyle ideal gas laws to figure out an approximation. The rated volumes are for 
the amount of gas the cylinder contains at the nominal fill pressure, when 
expanded to standard temperature and pressure. (basically sea level and room 
temperature)

Steve


 Persuasion37 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
Here is a simple calculator.  https://www.mathopenref.com/cylindervolume.html

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 2, 2018, at 12:39 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Steve and Joe: that's the best news I've heard all year...(ha,ha) so, do I 
> send this information to the surveyor, and request an amendment to the survey 
> recommendations...or go directly to my insurance company? Thanks again
> 
> Richard
> s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Steve Thomas <sthom...@bellnet.ca>
> Sent: Tue, Jan 2, 2018 11:45 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC
> 
> There should be some sort of marking on the tank, but consider that the vast 
> majority of SCUBA tanks are around 80 cubic feet. If the tank is around that 
> size, and it probably is, then it is likely ok. Worth checking anyway. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> 
>  bushmark4--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
> Steve, thank you for the info; , not having any experience with CNG, how do I 
> tell if my tank is less than 100 cubic feet? 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard
> s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Steve Thomas <sthom...@bellnet.ca>
> Sent: Tue, Jan 2, 2018 11:27 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC
> 
> CNG cylinders do not have to be in a separate locker if the total installed 
> capacity of the tanks is less than 100 cubic feet. 
> 
> https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/ibr/001/abyc.A-22.1993.pdf
> 
> Steve Thomas 
> C MKIII
> C 
> 
>  bushmark4--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
> I have a CNG stove which came with my boat (1985 C 37): it has the same CNG 
> cylinder being discussed: my problem is that in a recent insurance survey 
> (June 2017), the surveyor made it a point to state that the cylinder must be 
> stored in a separate locker:
> 
> 
> *7.5 As per ABYC A-22, secure the CNG tank (cylinder) in a protective 
> dedicated locker, rigidly
> secured to protect them from movement, readily accessible for operation of 
> valves and testing
> for leakage, vaportight to the hull interior, provided with a means to latch 
> its cover, vented to
> the atmosphere, and located so that with its cover open or closed, escaping 
> vapor cannot reach
> the bilges, machinery spaces, accommodations, or other enclosed spaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my Insurance company then required me to remove the cylinder from the boat in 
> order to continue the policy: has anyone had to deal with this? If so, what 
> did you do with the cylinder, and what was your response form the Insurance 
> company? Thanks 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

There should be some sort of marking on the tank, but consider that the vast 
majority of SCUBA tanks are around 80 cubic feet. If the tank is around that 
size, and it probably is, then it is likely ok. Worth checking anyway. 

Steve Thomas

 bushmark4--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 

 Steve, thank you for the info; , not having any experience with CNG, how do I 
tell if my tank is less than 100 cubic feet? 

 


Richard
s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Steve Thomas <sthom...@bellnet.ca>
Sent: Tue, Jan 2, 2018 11:27 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC

CNG cylinders do not have to be in a separate locker if the total installed 
capacity of the tanks is less than 100 cubic feet. 

https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/ibr/001/abyc.A-22.1993.pdf

Steve Thomas 
C MKIII
C 

 bushmark4--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 

 I have a CNG stove which came with my boat (1985 C 37): it has the same CNG 
cylinder  being discussed: my problem is that in a recent insurance survey 
(June 2017), the surveyor made it a point to state that  the cylinder must be 
stored in a separate locker:


*7.5 As per ABYC A-22, secure the CNG tank (cylinder) in a protective dedicated 
locker, rigidly
secured to protect them from movement, readily accessible for operation of 
valves and testing
for leakage, vaportight to the hull interior, provided with a means to latch 
its cover, vented to
the atmosphere, and located so that with its cover open or closed, escaping 
vapor cannot reach
the bilges, machinery spaces, accommodations, or other enclosed spaces.


 


my Insurance company then required me to remove the cylinder from the boat in 
order to continue the policy: has anyone had to deal with this? If so, what did 
you do with the cylinder, and what was your response form the Insurance 
company? Thanks 




Richard

Richard N. Bush
s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 


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Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

CNG cylinders do not have to be in a separate locker if the total installed 
capacity of the tanks is less than 100 cubic feet. 

https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/ibr/001/abyc.A-22.1993.pdf

Steve Thomas 
C MKIII
C 

 bushmark4--- via CnC-List  wrote: 

 I have a CNG stove which came with my boat (1985 C 37): it has the same CNG 
cylinder  being discussed: my problem is that in a recent insurance survey 
(June 2017), the surveyor made it a point to state that  the cylinder must be 
stored in a separate locker:


*7.5 As per ABYC A-22, secure the CNG tank (cylinder) in a protective dedicated 
locker, rigidly
secured to protect them from movement, readily accessible for operation of 
valves and testing
for leakage, vaportight to the hull interior, provided with a means to latch 
its cover, vented to
the atmosphere, and located so that with its cover open or closed, escaping 
vapor cannot reach
the bilges, machinery spaces, accommodations, or other enclosed spaces.


 


my Insurance company then required me to remove the cylinder from the boat in 
order to continue the policy: has anyone had to deal with this? If so, what did 
you do with the cylinder, and what was your response form the Insurance 
company? Thanks 




Richard

Richard N. Bush
s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

My C has windows that are glued and screwed directly on the surface of the 
cabin. There is no cavity, and no visible sealant, and yes they leak. I suspect 
that they were glued down with Plexus or something similar, but I wish that 
whoever did it had left out the screws. Anyway,

Has anyone attempted this sort of on-the-surface installation using VHB tape? 
Seems there would be very little room for sealant. Maybe have to use an exposed 
fillet?

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Saw a great looking stainless steel stove sitting beside the dumpster at a 
marina in Florida last week. I was pretty excited until upon closer inspection 
it proved to be electric. 
Stinkpots...

Steve Thomas
C

 Chuck Saur via CnC-List  wrote: 
Neil, all, I am searching for a good stainless PROPANE oven/stove for my
35-3.  I tired of multiple attempts at torching my boat with the alcohol
model and de-fused the beast.   If yours (or anyone else?) is propane, in
good shape, and is for sale, could you let me know please?  Thanks!


*Chuck Saur*

(517)-490-5926


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Re: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

1. I used a 12 volt to 13.8 volt voltage booster on a compressor refrigerator 
cooler that was behaving like that. 4 months continuous use last year with no 
problem so far. Purchased on Fleabay, made in China, etc. I bought a version 
that was potted in an aluminum heatsink and supposed to be waterproof. 
2. Where exactly is the espar mounted in you boat? I have a 36 too, and there 
are a lot of projects competing for the limited space that is not part of the 
cabin. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL 

 William Walker via CnC-List  wrote: 
On this subject, my espar won't fire up unless either engine is running or I am 
connected to shorepower.  It tries, but won't start.  Any ideas?
Bill Walker 
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Friday, November 24, 2017 billbruce--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thanks for the link...very handy for when I might need to do a little tinkering 
with the furnace. Mine's appears to be working fine right now. 

Bill Bruce 
Landfall 38 

  

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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration Wiring

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I agree that it sounds like a lot of added complexity, but most wire and switch 
ampacity ratings are based on not heating up enough to cause a fire, as opposed 
to minimizing voltage drop, which may be the objective. 
I wired up a cheap Chinese 12 volt compressor cooler/refrigerator on my Florida 
boat last winter, and was dismayed by how much heating and voltage drop I was 
getting from the brand new crimped connectors I was using. Boat still has the 
original panel, and the connections in there were series short jumpers from 
fuse to fuse, which was not good either and I wound up having to use a voltage 
booster to get the thing to start reliably. 14 gauge wire and associated 
connectors should have been ok for 5 amps, but once again the insulated crimp 
connectors and tools just didn't work for me. The commonly available 
aftermarket stuff is junk in my experience. 

 John Pennie via CnC-List  wrote: 
It’s not that high of a load Ed.  How much does your refrigerator draw?  It 
just sounds like overkill. 

John


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2017, at 5:38 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> As it is wired now (probably by the previous owner), the only way to switch 
> on the refrigerator on the Enterprise is to open up the Ship’s Circuits panel 
> and flip on the circuit breaker deep inside. As the fridge is high amps, I 
> can understand the need to go through extra steps to turn it on or off, but I 
> was looking to do something more convenient. 
> 
> So here’s the plan:
> 
> Since the compressor itself is located in a locker adjacent to the galley, I 
> was thinking of putting a flip-open-covered blue LED push button latching 
> ON-OFF switch in the galley, which would then activate a relay, which, when 
> the button is pressed, would connect the positive lead to the fridge 
> compressor. 
> 
> Here is the switch: 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJWVBPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8=1
>  
> 
> Here is the cover: 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TK0WFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8=1
>  
> 
> It looks like the switch can handle the loads without burning out, but I 
> think I’m best off getting a relay as well. I like the idea of the cover so 
> it can’t accidentally be bumped into, turned on and drain the battery during 
> a long day of sailing. 
> 
> Any thoughts? Sound like a good plan? Am I missing something? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Natural gas is lighter than air, but both butane and propane are heavier.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

 "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  wrote: 
I think butane is lighter than air (unlike propane), but I could be wrong.

From: jackbrennan via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: jackbrennan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

I hope everyone using portable stoves fueled by butane or small propane 
canisters is taking the appropriate safety precautions. Both types of stoves 
can cause explosions.

The canisters should not be stored inside the boat unless it is an isolated 
locker with a drain to the outside.

I keep mine, for a rail grill, in a large pvc pipe tied to the rail with holes 
in the bottom for any stray gas to drain. A couple of years ago, a canister 
malfunctioned. 

I was really happy it was not down below. It would have filled the boat with 
propane..

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I wish that those Forespar gimbaled stoves were still available. I am in the 
process now of converting an older version to accept modern propane cylinders. 
I spent several months on a boat that had one and we used it all the time, 
mainly for boiling water and making coffee. A good mounting spot is to a 1 by 6 
board bolted to the 1/2 bulkhead that forms one side of the galley on most 
boats. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote: 
Forespar makes a nifty gimbled stove for small boats.  I like the idea of a 
gimble system since boats tend to move around beneath the stove, and hot fluids 
splashing all over the cabin are usually a bit messy and dangerous.  This one 
uses the same propane cannisters as a Magna Grill or Lehr Propane outboard 
motor and can be purchased at any grocery or hardware store.

 

  
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=14122

I used to use a wind proof butane Optimus backpacking stove when I had my C 
25 and it worked well, but the compressed gas cannisters are no longer 
available.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 


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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you need 
a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then I 
wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start out 
big and it won't stop you from getting home. 
What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short time. 
The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk is a 
bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter systems as a 
precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at the end of the 
pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook loose by rough 
weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a friend of mine who 
was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into Liverpool. Couldn't 
sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of the screen and rely on 
the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about and where to spend your 
time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies. 

Steve. 

 robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after 
a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my 
labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
> fuel/condensation.
>
> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
> ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it
> approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is
> the original 20 gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame
> (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom
> exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I
> can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my
> concern.
>
> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt
> water environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt
> water on it.
>
> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision
> about replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>
> Will keep you informed.
>
>     Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>
> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends.
> It it looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise
> there was such a thing as special customer orders. I looked at
> at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. Don't know it it
> was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a
> while.
>
> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and
> inspect it very carefully before making a decision to replace
> it. If salt water has been kept away the condition might
> surprise you.
>
> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>  robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure
> what the
> fuel tank was made from?
>
> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>
> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options? Where
> would I
> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>
> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
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>
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> members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
> costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stum

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it looks like 
that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing as special 
customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. 
Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a 
while. 

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it very 
carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has been kept 
away the condition might surprise you. 

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List  wrote: 
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and 
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I 
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

So, your type 1891 incandescent lamp is rated at 2 spherical candle power, 
which is equivalent to 25 lumens. 

 Steve Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
This link to a GE miniature lamp catalog contains a wealth of information. 
Brightness is expressed in "spherical candlepower", where one candela is 
approximately equal to 12.5 lumens. Don't get distracted by sites with purist 
definitions, this is close enough for farm use in this context. 

http://www.csobeech.com/files/GE-BulbCatalog.pdf

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.

The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S)
base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
can be seen by the International Space Station.

The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.

So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?

Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

This link to a GE miniature lamp catalog contains a wealth of information. 
Brightness is expressed in "spherical candlepower", where one candela is 
approximately equal to 12.5 lumens. Don't get distracted by sites with purist 
definitions, this is close enough for farm use in this context. 

http://www.csobeech.com/files/GE-BulbCatalog.pdf

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 
I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.

The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S)
base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
can be seen by the International Space Station.

The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.

So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?

Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Port Stanley, Ontario
Steve Thomas
sv Mystique
C MKIII

 "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  wrote: 
Just wondering about where our wandering list members are currently?Where are 
you Hank an where is Stella Blue?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL (still)


  From: henry evans via CnC-List 
 To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Cc: henry evans 
 Sent: Friday, September 1, 2017 10:11 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Irma heads up
   
 Can you imagine how many thousands of factors must be crunched by the 
computers to create that many spaghetti lines ?  Mind boggling. 
   
  

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Re: Stus-List Battery compartment and battery boxes. SS straps?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Bimini straps live out doors.
Might be easier to find suitable hardware under that heading. 
Not much stuff for the pickup truck market that is stainless. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

 john sandford via CnC-List  wrote: 
I like the ratchet strap idea.

Mine are gel, no box, and the crummy plastic CTyre strap.

Does anyone know where to get ratchet straps, in general, with SS hardware ?

Batteries, Dingy to dock, float removal and securing, etc. many more 
applications.

Thanks for any guidance.

John

LF38

 

 

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: May-20-17 1:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery compartment and battery boxes

 

I bought kayak straps. 

 

NRS 1in Heavy-Duty Buckle Bumper Strap Blue, 9ft 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAI9N7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KFgizbD89HKG1

 

But you could use ratchet straps too.

 

Mann Ratchet Tie Downs Straps with S-hooks 1-Inch x 15-Feet 500 Lbs Load Cap - 
1500 Lb Break Strength 2-Pack Set 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AIWGB4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jIgizbDPS31AR

 

I wanted to avoid putting anchor screws in the lower part of my compartment.  
Seems kinda counter productive to epoxy in a box for leak tightness only to 
then put holes in it for fasteners.  I bent some flat aluminum bar stock so 
that it follows the contours of the inside of the battery compartment.  The 
bars are held in place at the top of the compartment.  My straps are fed 
perpendicular under the bars and the batteries sit on top of both.  The straps 
wrap across the top of the batteries and meet on the side.

 

The load requirements are side to side movement of less than an inch and mounts 
which can hold 90lbs.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

On Sat, May 20, 2017, 10:02 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Josh- Thanks for the advice.  If water is getting to my compartment then I 
have serious problems well beyond the batteries.  Can you clarify what kind of 
ratcheting strap you use?  I don’t think much of the plastic clamp strap that 
came with the boat.  Thanks- Dave

 

On May 19, 2017, at 11:17 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

ABYC is a little vague with the battery box requiments.  In summery it 
describes keeping the batteries sufficiently mounted to prevent sliding around. 
 It describes a cover to prevent inadvertent contact with the terminals.  If 
you use a ratchet strap and insulated terminal covers then you technically meet 
the requirements.

 

Commercially available plastic battery boxes provide a means of restraint and 
insulation of the terminals.  Properly made and used, the battery boxes also 
provide a means of catching acid if it were to leak out.  The lids are designed 
to maintain a loop seal which prevents water from getting in the box should a 
flooding situation submerge the box.  Sea water and batteries is a bad 
combination which can, not just short out and destroy the battery, but also 
generate chlorine gas.

 

I don't have commercial battery boxes in either of my battery compartments.  
The batteries are strapped down.  The compartments are glassed in to provide 
leak resistance.  The compartments have wooden lids which prevent inadvertent 
contact with the terminals.

 

I think you are ok removing the plastic boxes.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

On May 18, 2017 12:07 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I have finished my rewiring project and everything seems to be working fine.  I 
ended up putting a Blue Sea Si-ACR to control charging inside the battery 
compartment as I could find no other accessible space for it.  It is not pretty 
crowded inside that area with wires, two batteries, and the ACR.  The 
compartment is a solid bottom fiberglass area with a wood top panel for access 
and a strap that goes through slots on the bottom of the compartment.  The 
batteries are sealed AGM.  I am considering removing the two battery boxes that 
the batteries sit inside of inside the compartment as they seem redundant to me 
with sealed batteries.  I can strap down the batteries instead of strapping 
down the battery boxes.  This will give me a bit more room and flexibility in 
the compartment.  Is there any safety reason I should not do this?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT


Error! Filename not specified.

 


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Stus-List Forward looking crows nest camera

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Given that the main reason for wanting forward looking sonar is to avoid 
bumping into things, and given that a sharp lookout is both the traditional and 
still recommended way to navigate the reefs in many places, it is a wonder to 
me that I have yet to hear of a camera either used or marketed as a substitute 
for a crows nest. A continuous video feed from a "crows nest camera" to a 
screen at the nav station might be a useful thing in any number of situations. 
I am thinking of something along the lines of a wired GoPro up on the mast or 
under a spreader. Even 4k cameras aren't all that expensive these days.  

Steve Thomas 
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

P.S. We got the docks in at the sailing club last weekend. Spring is here!



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Re: Stus-List Lazy Jack advice

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Lazy jacks can supplement or replace the function of the topping lift, and if 
you have any inclination to use them in that fashion then Dave's comment 
requires careful consideration. The main sheet can put on quite a load. 

As for the total number of lines to the boom, remember that the purpose is to 
stop the sail from falling to the deck. All else being equal, more is better, 
but the number of lines included in kits for a given boom length from the major 
manufacturers is a good place to start. I have a Harken 2 line kit on my 27, 
and find it adequate, but I also have full battens in the main sail which helps 
a lot. 

On the subject of battens, separate from questions surrounding lazy jacks, 
properly adjusted full battens can maintain a good aerofoil shape in extremely 
light air. It is a wonder how the boat will  ghost along sometimes. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


 David Kaseler via CnC-List  wrote: 
I'm no expert as I have no lazy jacks and have never used them but my concern 
would be the potential of putting extra stress on the spreaders causing them to 
become misaligned. 
Dave. Kaseler
SLY, 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 19, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> appreciated!


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