Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Ryan,

 

Your paint job looks great! I just saw this post because I am about to attempt 
the same thing on my 33 foot three quarter tonner and did a search on the topic 
in this forum. Thank you for the information.

 

I have researched the roll and tip method and also found some pretty good 
instructional videos. That will be the method I use. One issue I had is my 
waterline. It is correct in it’s placement on the boat but the last painter did 
a terrible job with it – both the boot top and the line between topsides and 
bottom paint are wavy and need to be removed and re-done. I recently figured 
out how to deal with that thanks to a great video by a shipwright so I am about 
ready to tackle this. I just need to measure and record the position of the 
existing water line on the bow and stern points and with that will be able lay 
down a new water line.

 

I will also be painting my deck and toe rails. 

 

Have you launched your boat yet. I know it is early but how does the paint seem 
to be holding up 

 

Burt

 

1971 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in Walpole, MA USA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 1:53 PM
To: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Cc: Ryan Doyle; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote

 

Hey Dave,  

 

Thanks!  I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each 
portion took. 

 

1.5 hrs to tape off the boat

4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit

2 hrs to prime 

(New day)

2 hrs to sand primer 

1.5 hrs to prime 

(New day)

2 hrs to sand primer again

2 hrs for first finish coat

(New day)

.75 hrs to sand

1.5 hrs for second finish coat

(New day)

.75 hrs to sand

1.5 hrs for final finish coat

(New day)

3 hrs total to tape off and do a couple coats of paint on the stripes and 
stars.  You could also do these with a stencil (but I just used bits and pieces 
of tape)





If my math is right, that's a total of about 22.5 hrs.  This was spread out 
over a couple of weeks.

 

 


On Jun 6, 2016, at 4:27 AM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:

Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint 
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Dave,  

Thanks!  I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each 
portion took. 

1.5 hrs to tape off the boat
4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit
2 hrs to prime 
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer 
1.5 hrs to prime 
(New day)
2 hrs to sand primer again
2 hrs for first finish coat
(New day)
.75 hrs to sand
1.5 hrs for second finish coat
(New day)
.75 hrs to sand
1.5 hrs for final finish coat
(New day)
3 hrs total to tape off and do a couple coats of paint on the stripes and 
stars.  You could also do these with a stencil (but I just used bits and pieces 
of tape)

If my math is right, that's a total of about 22.5 hrs.  This was spread out 
over a couple of weeks.



> On Jun 6, 2016, at 4:27 AM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Ryan.
> Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the 
> paint job?
> Dave J
> Saltaire
> CC35 MK3
> Bristol, RI
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Dave via CnC-List]

Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint 
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI

- Original Message -
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 15:46:02 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
excited to work outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear,
then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I
then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing
liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
filling imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
"No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
 "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
to apply another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
"tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

Th

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

very nice and your hard work saved you a lot of cash; now you can buy new sails
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this
> process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but
> hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some grief.
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
> to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
> the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
> orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then
> I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then
> wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
>
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty
> of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No
> biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
> "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
> and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
> grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish,
> and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
> complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip"
> has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I
> think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
>
> This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
>
> The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I've been using this to seal deck hardware, framed portlights and chainplates 
for several years. Dries in 30 minutes and forms a waterproof, flexible, 
adhesive seal that is far superior to anything found in a chandlery. 

I've yet to have a leak anywhere I've used it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-3-0-9-oz-Crystal-Clear-Premium-Gutter-and-Flashing-Sealant-18377/206046712

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: S Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date:06/01/2016  12:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas <sthom...@bellnet.ca> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 

The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
 
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
 
Steve.
- Original Message -
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, and 
but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine version.

Loctite Polyurethene here 
Practical Sailor Article here

Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Thanks Bettina

Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Mike,
Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
Bettina

On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet



 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it  . Good news, 
after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to 
dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the 
boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a makeover. 
I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband finally came 
around.

Bettina

C 25 Savannah



> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> at

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly apprec

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Agreed. I just like that someone has been testing the Loctite polyurethane
<http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_56/chandlery/Low-priced-PLS40-Caulk-Onboard_11763-1.html>
for the past 10 years, *above *and *below *the waterline. Quikcrete
<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-10-1-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Self-Leveling-Sealant-866010/203604214>
and Loctite
<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-10-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Concrete-Crack-and-Masonry-Sealant-1618522/203156788>
are the same price point more or less. Take a look at the article. Good
read.

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:32 AM S Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
> Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
>
>
> http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
>
> Steve.
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>
> Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40,
> and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine
> version.
>
> Loctite Polyurethene here
> <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/17/26/pl_seal_sl/overview/Loctite-PL-S20-Polyurethane-Self-Leveling-Concrete-Crack-Sealant.htm>
>
> Practical Sailor Article here
> <http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_56/chandlery/Low-priced-PLS40-Caulk-Onboard_11763-1.html>
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
> On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Bettina
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Mike,
>> Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling
>> Bettina
>>
>> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Bettina
>>
>> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>>
>> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
>>
>>
>>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
>>
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it.
>>
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches
>> of old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip
>> left on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>>
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of
>> the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done)
>> and the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during
>> launch and at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple
>> of stanchions, fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes
>> in the cockpit.
>>
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats
>> and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is
>> set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some
>> "special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off
>> the roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch
>> on a Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller
>> couldn't reach.
>>
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the
>> rounded parts of the deck.
>>
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a l

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The Quikrete product is intended for buildings. 
Doesn't mean it won't work for other things. 

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling

Steve.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
  Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux


  Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, 
and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine 
version.


  Loctite Polyurethene here 
  Practical Sailor Article here


  Thanks,
  Kevin


  On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Thanks Bettina


Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


  Hi Mike,
  Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
  Bettina

  On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet



 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of 
the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and 
the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and 
at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some 
cleats and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what 
is set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some 
"special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the 
roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a 
Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't 
reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by 
practical sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along 
there, but can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, 
after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to 
dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the 
boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
finally came around.

Bettina

C 25 Savannah



> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> at

___

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40,
and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine
version.

Loctite Polyurethene here


Practical Sailor Article here


Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Bettina
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling
> Bettina
>
> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Bettina
>
> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
>
>
>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
>
> Ryan,
> Nice job.
> Re finishing the topside.
> Just do it.
>
> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull
> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige
> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had
> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches
> of old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip
> left on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>
> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of
> the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done)
> and the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during
> launch and at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple
> of stanchions, fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes
> in the cockpit.
>
> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats
> and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is
> set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some
> "special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off
> the roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch
> on a Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller
> couldn't reach.
>
> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever
> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have
> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but
> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to
> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it
> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the
> rounded parts of the deck.
>
> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical
> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there,
> but can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news,
> after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the
> stuff somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left
> the caulk to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last
> time I was at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on?
>
> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a
> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband
> finally came around.
>
> Bettina
>
> C 25 Savannah
>
>
>
> > On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > at
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Bettina

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike,
> Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
> Bettina
> 
>> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Bettina
>> 
>> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
>> 
>> Ryan,
>> Nice job.
>> Re finishing the topside.
>> Just do it. 
>> 
>> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige 
>> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
>> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>> 
>> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>> 
>> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
>> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
>> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
>> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
>> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>> 
>> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have 
>> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but 
>> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>> parts of the deck. 
>> 
>> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
>> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>> 
>> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>> finally came around.
>> 
>> Bettina
>> 
>> C 25 Savannah
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> > On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
>> > wrote:
>> > 
>> > at
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,
Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
Bettina

> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bettina
> 
> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
> 
> 
> 
>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
> 
> Ryan,
> Nice job.
> Re finishing the topside.
> Just do it. 
> 
> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
> whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
> 
> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
> 
> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
> 
> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
> problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
> think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
> parts of the deck. 
> 
> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
> 
> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
> finally came around.
> 
> Bettina
> 
> C 25 Savannah
> 
> 
> 
> > On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > at
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Way to go Bettina, and Ryan. Nice work.

Regarding where the leaks are coming from at the toe rail / deck-hull joint, I 
took Don Casey's suggestion and traced under the joint on the inside with a 
washable marker (plus around the chainplates on the inside). Worked like a 
charm. I've confirmed leakage from my port chainplate and one spot under the 
toe rail on the starboard bow.

Next offseason I'll pull the chainplate and re-bed them. For the toe rail leak 
I'm hoping I can get away with tightening a few bolts.

Cheers,
Randy
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Bmue via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> Nice job.
> Re finishing the topside.
> Just do it. 
> 
> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
> whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
> 
> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
> 
> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
> 
> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
> problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
> think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
> parts of the deck. 
> 
> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
> 
> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
> finally came around.
> 
> Bettina
> 
> C 25 Savannah
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> at
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Persuasion via CnC-List]

Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

>Ryan,
>Nice job.
>Re finishing the topside.
>Just do it. 
>
>We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
>whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
>the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>
>3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>
>My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
>fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
>tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
>it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
>like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>
>The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
>problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
>think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>parts of the deck. 
>
>Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at 
>the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>
>In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>finally came around.
>
>Bettina
>
>C 25 Savannah
>
>
>
>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> at
>
>___
>
>This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after three 
days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff somehow 
reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to dry for 
a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the boat 
the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a makeover. 
I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband finally came 
around.

Bettina

C 25 Savannah



> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> at

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, Ryan.  Your boat looks incredible.  If you get the urge
to paint another one, just let me know...

Sam
35-3
SF

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 5:48 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ryan
>
>
>
> The boat looks really nice.  Congratulations on a job well done
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> HAlifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2016 12:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Brightside/Interlux Prekote
>
>
>
> Hey all,
>
>
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
>
>
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
>
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
>
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
>
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
>
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
>
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I
> got to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding
> is the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
>
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and
> Decker orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint
> disappear, then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole
> hull.  I then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333
> brushing liquid
>
>
>
> Sanded:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
>
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
>
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
>
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
>
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
> plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
> "No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
>
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
>  "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
>
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went
> home and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of
> elbow grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
>
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
>
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying t

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ryan

The boat looks really nice.  Congratulations on a job well done

Mike
Persistence
HAlifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 12:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from 
defender.com<http://defender.com> for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

T

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Great job and nice write up on your experiences.  Thanks for sharing



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote



Ryan,



An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.



Jake



Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote



Hey all,



I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief.



When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the kind words.  It was a ton of work, but I'm very happy with 
the results.  I think this stuff is a good product with bang for the buck as 
far as finish goes, but we'll see if it has lasting power after a season or 
two.  For a smooth finish I can't stress prep enough.  Sanding out bad brush 
strokes or drips is key.

Bob - Good point.  Maybe I'll try to put off painting the deck... Although my 
wife is very keen on it and I have some nasty cracking spots on the cabin top.  
Unfortunately this  hull paint makes every other part of the boat look old.

Tom - I didn't remove the swim ladder.  It is on hinges which were a bit of a 
pain to cut in around, but I just raised the ladder and used a bungee cord to 
tie it up to the stanchions so the bottom didn't rest on the paint.  

Honestly I found the fuel vent and through hulls to be more of a pain.  I 
rolled as close to them as I could and then cut in with the foam brush as 
smoothly as possible.  I made sure to always leave horizontal brush strokes 
just like I did everywhere else on the hull so the paint "falls" onto itself.  
Make sense?  

If you get close, you can see a slight difference in brush pattern around the 
through hulls and around the swim ladder hinges if you get very close because 
it's impossible to get a continuous smooth horizontal brush stroke with 
something poking out of the hull.

Ryan 


> On May 26, 2016, at 10:39 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Bow Pulpit C II (Dennis C.)
>   2. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>  Brightside/Interlux Prekote (Jake Brodersen)
>   3. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>  Brightside/Interlux Prekote (tom)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 19:52:51 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit C II
> Message-ID:
><canir+yva2g598djsbzktjoqfolys4373kah4vxbhg3irrij...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/pulpits.html
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 6:14 PM, johnr via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> The yard damaged the bow pulpit on my C  What would be a good place
>> to get an estimate on repair or replacement.
>> 
>> John McLaughlin
>> Falcon
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160526/a741f4da/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 21:30:07 -0400
> From: "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> Message-ID: <03a801d1b7b7$4d3e9420$e7bbbc60$@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> 
> 
> An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.
> 
> 
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> 
> C 35 Mk-III ?Midnight Mistress?
> 
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
> Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside 
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[tom via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan,
Looks great and might motivate me to do the same next season. Can you
comment though about the swim ladder. Was it difficult to work around and
should I think about removing it before painting?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I
> got to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding
> is the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and
> Decker orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint
> disappear, then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole
> hull.  I then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333
> brushing liquid
>
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
> plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
> "No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
>  "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went
> home and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of
> elbow grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
> finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
> complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
> "tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
> there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
> brush".
>
> This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
> 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ryan,

 

An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote

 

Hey all,

 

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 

 

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.

 

This was the state of her hull before:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

 

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.

 

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com 
<http://defender.com>  for a total of $351.90 before shipping.  

 

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

 

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  

 

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid

 

Sanded:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

 

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.

 

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

 

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 

 

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  

 

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."

 

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

  

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

 

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.

 

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

 

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 

 

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the proces

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[wwadjourn]

I kiwi gripped my cockpit sol three years ago.  Too many years of feet of guys 
grinding the winches.  Anyway, go to home depot.  Get pair color c hips.  Match 
your cockpit.  Take white kiwi grip to home depot and they will tint for free.  
Talk nice.  Kiwi grip sends how to instructions and guarantees you will happy.  
Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: Thu, May 
26, 2016 1:50 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Paul E;Cc: Patrick Davin;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you 
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use 
then? It looks pretty white to me. 
I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way to go 
to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other nonskid (which 
I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time). 
There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a little 
weird. 
-Patrick1984 C LF38 Seattle, WA
On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,  <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
Nice work Ryan.  
You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.

I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and Kiwigrip(non-skid). 
 Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy brush “ but in my case 
found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out better.  Below is a link 
to my experiences painting the deck.
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[wwadjourn]

Spectacular!Bill Walker cnc 36. Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Date: Thu, May 26, 
2016 11:46 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Ryan Doyle;Subject:Stus-List My 
Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote
Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.
This was the state of her hull 
before:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.
I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  
When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
Sanded:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.
Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 
Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."
Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.  I then waited a 
day for the primer on the boat to dry.
The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.
I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and 
tip/brush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of the 
boat at one time - IE the whole transom, or all the 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Eventually I was able have some white KiwiGrip shipped out of Los Osos, CA by 
Chetco Marine in mid March.  By the time I finished, I ended up using about 
1.25 gallons of KiwiGrip.  It  turned out that the first gallon of KiwiGrip 
from Chetco Marine arrived damaged and opened in the box.  I managed to 
salvaged about 1/2 the gallon.  Chetco Marine sent out a complete replacement 
gallon(nice folks).  I still have a little left for touch ups.  One gallon may 
have been enough, but since I had plenty, focused on putting down a good layer. 
 


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 26, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you 
> were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use 
> then? It looks pretty white to me. 
> 
> I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way to 
> go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other nonskid 
> (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time). 
> 
> There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a 
> little weird. 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38 
> Seattle, WA
> 
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com <mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: 
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Nice work Ryan.  
> 
> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
> time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
> 
> 
> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and 
> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy 
> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out 
> better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html 
> <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

Beautiful!!Thank you for very detailed share.Bernie

 Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 05/26/2016  11:46 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com> 
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote 

Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.
This was the state of her hull 
before:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.
I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  
When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
Sanded:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.
Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 
Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."
Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.  I then waited a 
day for the primer on the boat to dry.
The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.
I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and 
tip/brush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
The helpful guys at my local West Marine

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You can have KiwiGrip tinted at a paint store. It is a latex paint.

However they won't guarantee a colour match.

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said
> you were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you
> use then? It looks pretty white to me.
>
> I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
> to go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other
> nonskid (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time).
>
> There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a
> little weird.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>> Nice work Ryan.
>>
>> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and
>> over time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
>>
>>
>> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and
>> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy
>> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked
>> out better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use
then? It looks pretty white to me.

I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
to go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other
nonskid (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time).

There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a
little weird.

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Nice work Ryan.
>
> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and
> over time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
>
>
> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and
> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy
> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked
> out better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Nice work Ryan.  

You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.


I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and Kiwigrip(non-skid). 
 Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy brush “ but in my case 
found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out better.  Below is a link 
to my experiences painting the deck.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 26, 2016, at 11:46 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 11:46:02 -0400
> From: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com <mailto:ryanpdo...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>   Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> Message-ID:
>   <ca+bqz1cchrexzs+xwntfdogvqnk2b3k8qxnopafdv6sggky...@mail.gmail.com 
> <mailto:ca+bqz1cchrexzs+xwntfdogvqnk2b3k8qxnopafdv6sggky...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
> 
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
> 
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM 
> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM>
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA 
> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA>
> 
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
> 
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Wow!  Sounds like a lot of work, Ryan!

The only thing I'd like to add here is that if you paint the decks one time, 
they will need to be painted again in the not-too-distant future...and then, 
again.  If you can avoid painting them the fist time, do so.  It is never 
ending maintenance unless you love painting more than sailing.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 26, 2016, at 11:46 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside 
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this 
> process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but 
> hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
> 
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful 
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, 
> and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and 
> fenders.
> 
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
> 
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - 
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat 
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was 
> excited to work outside.
> 
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
> more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for 
> a total of $351.90 before shipping.  
> 
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and 
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
> 
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got 
> to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is 
> the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
> 
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
> orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then 
> I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then 
> wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
> 
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
> 
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right 
> off.
> 
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
> all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I 
> was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was 
> too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the 
> paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
> 
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
> shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
> primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
> imperfections. 
> 
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty 
> of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No 
> biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
> 
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
> yeah.  Boat paint."
> 
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home 
> and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow 
> grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>   
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
> 
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this 
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
> possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
> away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
> another coat.
> 
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
> 
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
> and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
> 
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
> 

Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
excited to work outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear,
then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I
then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing
liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
filling imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
"No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
 "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
to apply another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
"tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of
the boat at one time - IE the whole transom, or all the starboard topsides,
so it's harder to see the lines between applications.  I found this to be
good advice.

I started at the port stern and rolled on the first finish coat of
Brightside with a foam roller in a 2' section.  I then took my
much-too-expensive Purdy brush and lightly brushed from right to left -
starting at the bottom in the air off the