Re: Stus-List Impeller

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The zinc spray paint made by pettit helps minimize the tenacity with which
the growth adheres.  I would be lying if I was to suggest that it prevents
all forms of fouling.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 5, 2017 10:52 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

Short of pulling the dang thing every time...any magic coatings to keep the
fouling off...



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Ahh, yes, the old condom in the hot tub pump problem.


you wrote:

  I had a hot tub that
>would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!



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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Rick,

 

I use Torresen Marine, but they are probably available from any Yanmar dealer 
or Mack Boring.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2015 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Rohwer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

 

Where do you look for the parts?  any kits available?  Thanks

 

Rick

C&C 37+ Paikea

Poulsbo, WA   

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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[David via CnC-List]

Russ,

Thought of that but by the time I buy the parts ($300++) I exceeded the cost of 
a new one ($300) I found on-line with none of the headaches and worries of a 
rebuild.

Thank though...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 19 May 2015 11:43:51 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: russ...@telus.net



Hi David,


Probably a pitted shaft at the seal area. Replace shaft & seal no big
deal, assess bearing(s) at the same time.


Cheers,
Russ 

Sweet
35 mk-1




At 06:04 PM 18/05/2015, you wrote:

Rick,


Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is
from the  impeller which internally circulates the glycol. 



I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its
design.   Flat out at work all week and will be back out it
this weekend.


FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking
shaft.  $400 for a pump.  Whodathunk?   


Damn.   




David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)





To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 18:44:59 -0400

Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

CC: rickbr...@earthlink.net


David,


 


If I’m not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh water
cooled engine, not raw water.


 


Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of the engine circulates
water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat exchanger, the
second pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then to the exhaust
mixing elbow?


 


If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the sea water pump,
there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger.


 


Rick Brass


Washington, NC


 


 


 


From: CnC-List
[
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM

To: CNC CNC

Cc: David

Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...


 


Thanks all.


Checked obvious hose areas.  Nothing. Ran it today on the hard,
seemed fine, Will be launched  tomorrow.  As we are Bermuda
bound in June I need to find that puppy as it will invariably find its
way to the worst spot at the worst time.   My guess its in the
after market (Sen-Dur) heat exchanger.


Wish me luck.  


David F. Risch

1981 40-2

(401) 419-4650 (cell)





Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

From:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

CC: muckl...@gmail.com


You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden
hose.


On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"

wrote:





I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent cooling
problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of the time when
it had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. The
whistle was annoying...



 



I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come
apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and assembled
them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in the
engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to overheating every so
often like it used to do.



 



I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything...
After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing the
zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc
at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose
going to the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an
impeller which was hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The
impeller I had just pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the
other impellers I have changed in 20+ years of ownership had been whole.




The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there
for years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once it
was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year!



 



Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you
go.



 



Gary Nylander



30-1 Maryland





- Original Message - 



From: Rick Rohwer via
CnC-List 



To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com




Cc: Rick Rohwer




Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM



Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...



 



Hi David, 



i’ll chime in and hope it helps. 



 



If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all
the way through the cooling system and you are free as rain!



 



If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the
pump and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it
left.  In a raw water cooled application, that means it could be
anywhere in the cooling system of your engine block, potentially blocking
or contributing to future blockage.  In a fresh water cooling system
I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger or where the raw water is
introduced to the exhaust gases.



 



Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine

Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David,

Probably a pitted shaft at the seal area. Replace shaft & seal no big 
deal, assess bearing(s) at the same time.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:04 PM 18/05/2015, you wrote:

Rick,

Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from 
the  impeller which internally circulates the glycol.


I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its 
design.   Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.


FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking 
shaft.  $400 for a pump.  Whodathunk?


Damn.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



--
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 18:44:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rickbr...@earthlink.net

David,



If I'm not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh 
water cooled engine, not raw water.




Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of the engine 
circulates water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat 
exchanger, the second pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then 
to the exhaust mixing elbow?




If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the sea water 
pump, there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger.




Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
David via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...



Thanks all.

Checked obvious hose areas.  Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, 
seemed fine, Will be launched  tomorrow.  As we are Bermuda bound in 
June I need to find that puppy as it will invariably find its way to 
the worst spot at the worst time.   My guess its in the after market 
(Sen-Dur) heat exchanger.


Wish me luck.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>muckl...@gmail.com

You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose.

On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent 
cooling problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of 
the time when it had been run for a while, then stopped, then 
started again. The whistle was annoying...




I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come 
apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and 
assembled them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing 
still in the engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to 
overheating every so often like it used to do.




I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... 
After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing 
the zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to 
the zinc at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled 
the hose going to the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a 
piece of an impeller which was hard as a rock and coated in rust 
stuck in there. The impeller I had just pulled was recent, no rust 
and not hard. All the other impellers I have changed in 20+ years of 
ownership had been whole.


The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there 
for years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once 
it was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year!




Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go.



Gary Nylander

30-1 Maryland

- Original Message -

From: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>Rick Rohwer via CnC-List

To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: <mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com>Rick Rohwer

Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...



Hi David,

i'll chime in and hope it helps.



If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all 
the way through the cooling system and you are free as rain!




If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between 
the pump and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as 
when it left.  In a raw water cooled application, that means it 
could be anywhere in the cooling system of your engine block, 
potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage.  In a fresh 
water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger 
or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases.




Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the 
pump, work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the 
hoses hoping that it lodged in that line prior to entering the 
block.  Hang on to any chunks you f

Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hi Guys,

Saw this on the Providence (RI) craiglist:
http://providence.craigslist.org/bpo/5027782716.html
Might be worth a look.  I though of snagging it as a long-term project, but
I'm sure the Admiral would have me flogged (again).

Chuck B
C&C 34 Elusive
Somerset, MA

On Tue, May 19, 2015 at 1:30 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Rick,
>
> For this pump I checked a full re-build kit...$350 and still needs to be
> rebuilt.   New?  Got one for $300 online instead of $400 locally
> Your pump experiences may vary...
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Tue, 19 May 2015 10:21:00 -0700
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: rickroh...@gmail.com
>
>
> Where do you look for the parts?  any kits available?  Thanks
>
> Rick
> C&C 37+ Paikea
> Poulsbo, WA
>
> On May 19, 2015, at 3:28 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> The seals and bearings on the raw water pump are replaceable.  It is
> certainly cheaper than a new pump.
>
> Jake
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *David via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2015 9:04 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
>
>
> Rick,
>
> Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from the
> impeller which internally circulates the glycol.
>
> I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its
> design.   Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.
>
> FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking shaft.  $400
> for a pump.  Whodathunk?
>
> Damn.
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[David via CnC-List]

Rick,

For this pump I checked a full re-build kit...$350 and still needs to be 
rebuilt.   New?  Got one for $300 online instead of $400 locally
Your pump experiences may vary...


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 19 May 2015 10:21:00 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rickroh...@gmail.com

Where do you look for the parts?  any kits available?  Thanks
RickC&C 37+ PaikeaPoulsbo, WA   
On May 19, 2015, at 3:28 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:David, The seals and bearings on the raw water 
pump are replaceable.  It is certainly cheaper than a new pump. Jake Jake 
Brodersen“Midnight Mistress”C&C 35 Mk-IIIHampton VA   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 9:04 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Rick,

Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from the  
impeller which internally circulates the glycol.  

I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its design.   
Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.

FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking shaft.  $400 for a 
pump.  Whodathunk?   

Damn.   


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

___Email 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Where do you look for the parts?  any kits available?  Thanks

Rick
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA   
> On May 19, 2015, at 3:28 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
>  
> The seals and bearings on the raw water pump are replaceable.  It is 
> certainly cheaper than a new pump.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 9:04 PM
> To: CNC CNC
> Cc: David
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
>  
> Rick,
> 
> Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from the  
> impeller which internally circulates the glycol.  
> 
> I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its design.   
> Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.
> 
> FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking shaft.  $400 for 
> a pump.  Whodathunk?   
> 
> Damn.   
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

David,

 

The seals and bearings on the raw water pump are replaceable.  It is
certainly cheaper than a new pump.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 9:04 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

 

Rick,

Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from the
impeller which internally circulates the glycol.  

I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its design.
Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.

FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking shaft.  $400
for a pump.  Whodathunk?   

Damn.   


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



___

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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[David via CnC-List]

Rick,

Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from the  
impeller which internally circulates the glycol.  

I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its design.   
Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.

FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking shaft.  $400 for a 
pump.  Whodathunk?   

Damn.   


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 18:44:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rickbr...@earthlink.net

David, If I’m not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh water 
cooled engine, not raw water. Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of 
the engine circulates water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat 
exchanger, the second pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then to the 
exhaust mixing elbow? If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the 
sea water pump, there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger. 
Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Thanks all.

Checked obvious hose areas.  Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, seemed fine, 
Will be launched  tomorrow.  As we are Bermuda bound in June I need to find 
that puppy as it will invariably find its way to the worst spot at the worst 
time.   My guess its in the after market (Sen-Dur) heat exchanger.

Wish me luck.  

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckleyj@gmail.comYou can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or 
a garden hose.On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
 wrote:I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had 
intermittent cooling problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most 
of the time when it had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. 
The whistle was annoying... I then had more serious problems, and found the 
impeller had come apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller 
and assembled them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in 
the engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to overheating every so often 
like it used to do. I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed 
anything... After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing 
the zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc 
at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose going to 
the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller which was 
hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had just 
pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have changed 
in 20+ years of ownership had been whole. The only thing I can think of is that 
piece must have been in there for years - - - and only caused problems in 
certain conditions. Once it was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the 
last year! Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you 
go. Gary Nylander30-1 Maryland- Original Message - From: Rick Rohwer 
via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Rohwer Sent: Sunday, May 17, 
2015 12:44 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Hi David, i’ll chime in 
and hope it helps.  If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and 
pushed all the way through the cooling system and you are free as rain! If you 
are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump and the 
exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left.  In a raw water 
cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the cooling system of 
your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage.  In 
a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger or 
where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases. Just as a suggestion, 
try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump, work your way up line 
carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping that it lodged in that line 
prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any chunks you find so you can get an 
idea of how pulverized it is.  After that point i doubt that there is much 
chance you would find it.  i don’t know that there is much you can do after 
that except watch temps and signs of overheating.  Maybe the new fully 
functioning impeller will push it out over time.   I like to “lay hands” on my 
diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub that would heal itself on occasion after 
a brief group hug!   Good luck, RickC&C 37+ PaikeaPoulsbo, WA   On May 17, 
2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote: A first 
time.  Found a missing impeller va

Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

David,

 

If I'm not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh water
cooled engine, not raw water.

 

Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of the engine circulates
water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat exchanger, the second
pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then to the exhaust mixing elbow?

 

If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the sea water pump,
there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

 

Thanks all.

Checked obvious hose areas.  Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, seemed fine,
Will be launched  tomorrow.  As we are Bermuda bound in June I need to find
that puppy as it will invariably find its way to the worst spot at the worst
time.   My guess its in the after market (Sen-Dur) heat exchanger.

Wish me luck.  

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
CC: muckl...@gmail.com <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> 

You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose.

On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent cooling
problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of the time when it
had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. The whistle was
annoying...

 

I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come apart. I
took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and assembled them with
glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in the engine. OK. With a
new impeller it went back to overheating every so often like it used to do.

 

I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... After
checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing the zincs, I
found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc at the
forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose going to the
zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller which was
hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had just
pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have
changed in 20+ years of ownership had been whole. 

The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there for
years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once it was
removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year!

 

Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1 Maryland

- Original Message - 

From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Rick Rohwer <mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com>  

Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

 

Hi David, 

i'll chime in and hope it helps. 

 

If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the way
through the cooling system and you are free as rain!

 

If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump
and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left.  In a
raw water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the cooling
system of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing to future
blockage.  In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the
heat exchanger or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases.

 

Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump,
work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping that
it lodged in that line prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any chunks
you find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is.  After that point i
doubt that there is much chance you would find it.  i don't know that there
is much you can do after that except watch temps and signs of overheating.
Maybe the new fully functioning impeller will push it out over time.  

 

I like to "lay hands" on my diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub that would
heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!  

 

Good luck,

 

Rick

C&C 37+ Paikea

Poulsbo, WA

 

 

 

On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn
vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system
apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with a 

Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks all.

Checked obvious hose areas.  Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, seemed fine, 
Will be launched  tomorrow.  As we are Bermuda bound in June I need to find 
that puppy as it will invariably find its way to the worst spot at the worst 
time.   My guess its in the after market (Sen-Dur) heat exchanger.

Wish me luck.  

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose.
On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
wrote:







I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had 
intermittent cooling problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most 
of 
the time when it had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. 
The 
whistle was annoying...
 
I then had more serious problems, and found the 
impeller had come apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller 
and 
assembled them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in the 
engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to overheating every so often like 
it used to do.
 
I started again - I ran the engine each time I 
changed anything... After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and 
replacing the zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to 
the zinc at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose 
going to the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller 
which was hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had 
just pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have 
changed in 20+ years of ownership had been whole. 

The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been 
in there for years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once 
it 
was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year!
 
Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out 
everything as you go.
 
Gary Nylander
30-1 Maryland

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Rick Rohwer 
  via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Rick Rohwer 
  Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller 
  Damn...
  
Hi David,
  i’ll chime in and hope it helps. 
  

  If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the 
  way through the cooling system and you are free as rain!
  

  If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the 
  pump and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left. 
   In a raw water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in 
  the cooling system of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing 
  to future blockage.  In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks 
  end up in the heat exchanger or where the raw water is introduced to the 
  exhaust gases.
  

  Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the 
  pump, work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping 
  that it lodged in that line prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any 
  chunks you find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is.  After 
  that point i doubt that there is much chance you would find it.  i don’t 
  know that there is much you can do after that except watch temps and signs of 
  overheating.  Maybe the new fully functioning impeller will push it out 
  over time.  
  

  I like to “lay hands” on my diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub 
  that would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!  
  

  Good luck,
  

  Rick
  C&C 37+ Paikea
  Poulsbo, WA
  

  

  

  
  
On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:


A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  
The whole damn vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who 
damned cooling system apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with 
a Sen-Dur retro-fit.

Thanks in advance.


David F. 
Risch
C & C 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
___Email 
address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo 
change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of 
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To change you

Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose.
On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent cooling
> problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of the time when
> it had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. The whistle
> was annoying...
>
> I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come apart. I
> took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and assembled them with
> glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in the engine. OK. With
> a new impeller it went back to overheating every so often like it used to
> do.
>
> I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... After
> checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing the zincs, I
> found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc at the
> forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose going to the
> zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller which was
> hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had just
> pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have
> changed in 20+ years of ownership had been whole.
> The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there for
> years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once it was
> removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year!
>
> Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go.
>
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1 Maryland
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Rohwer 
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
>
> Hi David,
> i'll chime in and hope it helps.
>
> If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the
> way through the cooling system and you are free as rain!
>
> If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump
> and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left.  In a
> raw water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the
> cooling system of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing
> to future blockage.  In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end
> up in the heat exchanger or where the raw water is introduced to the
> exhaust gases.
>
> Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump,
> work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping
> that it lodged in that line prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any
> chunks you find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is.  After that
> point i doubt that there is much chance you would find it.  i don't know
> that there is much you can do after that except watch temps and signs of
> overheating.  Maybe the new fully functioning impeller will push it out
> over time.
>
> I like to "lay hands" on my diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub that
> would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!
>
> Good luck,
>
> Rick
> C&C 37+ Paikea
> Poulsbo, WA
>
>
>
>  On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole
> damn vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling
> system apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David F. Risch
> C & C 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent cooling problems 
on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of the time when it had been 
run for a while, then stopped, then started again. The whistle was annoying...

I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come apart. I took 
all the little pieces of the busted impeller and assembled them with glue and 
tape to make sure there was nothing still in the engine. OK. With a new 
impeller it went back to overheating every so often like it used to do.

I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... After 
checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing the zincs, I 
found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc at the forward 
part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose going to the zinc area 
and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller which was hard as a rock 
and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had just pulled was recent, 
no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have changed in 20+ years of 
ownership had been whole. 

The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there for years - 
- - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once it was removed, I have 
had no cooling problems for the last year!

Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go.

Gary Nylander
30-1 Maryland
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Rick Rohwer 
  Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...


  Hi David,
  i’ll chime in and hope it helps. 


  If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the way 
through the cooling system and you are free as rain!


  If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump 
and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left.  In a raw 
water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the cooling system 
of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage.  
In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger 
or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases.


  Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump, 
work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping that it 
lodged in that line prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any chunks you 
find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is.  After that point i doubt 
that there is much chance you would find it.  i don’t know that there is much 
you can do after that except watch temps and signs of overheating.  Maybe the 
new fully functioning impeller will push it out over time.  


  I like to “lay hands” on my diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub that would 
heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!  


  Good luck,


  Rick
  C&C 37+ Paikea
  Poulsbo, WA






On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List  
wrote:


A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn 
vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system apart? 
  Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
C & C 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

When I had a raw water cooled 3GM, the 1st time I went to replace the
impellor I found only 1 vane left.   Interestingly, the engine was not
overheating.

Some years later when I had an overheating problem it was the exhaust elbow
that had cloggd with a carbon build up.  When I removed the elbow I found a
great many vanes trapped there.  The vanes were pretty much full sized.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Sun, May 17, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David,
> i’ll chime in and hope it helps.
>
> If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the
> way through the cooling system and you are free as rain!
>
> If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump
> and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left.  In a
> raw water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the
> cooling system of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing
> to future blockage.  In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end
> up in the heat exchanger or where the raw water is introduced to the
> exhaust gases.
>
> Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump,
> work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping
> that it lodged in that line prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any
> chunks you find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is.  After that
> point i doubt that there is much chance you would find it.  i don’t know
> that there is much you can do after that except watch temps and signs of
> overheating.  Maybe the new fully functioning impeller will push it out
> over time.
>
> I like to “lay hands” on my diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub that
> would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!
>
> Good luck,
>
> Rick
> C&C 37+ Paikea
> Poulsbo, WA
>
>
>
> On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn
> vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system
> apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David F. Risch
> C & C 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi David,
i’ll chime in and hope it helps. 

If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the way 
through the cooling system and you are free as rain!

If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump and 
the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left.  In a raw 
water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the cooling system 
of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage.  
In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger 
or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases.

Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump, work 
your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping that it 
lodged in that line prior to entering the block.  Hang on to any chunks you 
find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is.  After that point i doubt 
that there is much chance you would find it.  i don’t know that there is much 
you can do after that except watch temps and signs of overheating.  Maybe the 
new fully functioning impeller will push it out over time.  

I like to “lay hands” on my diesel occasionally!  I had a hot tub that would 
heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!  

Good luck,

Rick
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA



> On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn 
> vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system 
> apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> C & C 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Gets hair balls out of drains too. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 09:12
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...


  Yep, works well for broke off pencil zincs too.

  On May 17, 2015 9:11 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

Interesting thought...just hook up and suck?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)





Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:03:25 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
    Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com


Shop-vac

On May 17, 2015 9:02 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

  A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn 
vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system apart? 
  Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.

  Thanks in advance.


  David F. Risch
  C & C 40-2
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)


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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yep, works well for broke off pencil zincs too.
On May 17, 2015 9:11 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Interesting thought...just hook up and suck?
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:03:25 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: muckl...@gmail.com
>
> Shop-vac
> On May 17, 2015 9:02 AM, "David via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn
> vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system
> apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David F. Risch
> C & C 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[David via CnC-List]

Interesting thought...just hook up and suck?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:03:25 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

Shop-vac
On May 17, 2015 9:02 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:



A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn vane. 
  Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system apart?   Its 
a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.

Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
C & C 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
  

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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Shop-vac
On May 17, 2015 9:02 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> A first time.  Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30.  The whole damn
> vane.   Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system
> apart?   Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David F. Risch
> C & C 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Wally Bryant]

I have one of the aforementioned impeller pullers, but it doesn't work 
with my current pump.  I still have it, because it doesn't weigh that 
much and you never know... (a puller's a puller.)  As someone said, what 
pump do you have?


Basically, I figure if I'm going to inspect the impeller I might as well 
put a new one in.  They really don't cost that much.  But I've removed a 
few using needle nosed pliers and some wiggling, and have found no 
visible damage and still keep them as spares.


I also believe that if you use your engine regularly the impeller gets 
worked and will last for many years.  Those things are pretty tough.  
That probably doesn't help folks north of Lat48.


Wal


Joel wrote:

Bay Shore Marine in Annapolis makes an impeller puller.  It ;looks like a
bent hemostat.  I've also used needle nosed pliers.



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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[coltrek]

Another tip, get the Speed Seal cover  (with thumb screws) and you don't need 
any tools!  Well, maybe some needle nose pliers to pull the impeller out.

Bill

 Original message From: JOHN D IRVIN 
 Date:03/23/2014  7:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Impeller/gear puller 
Tip. Replace the impeller fasteners with screws which take a hex key. 
Much easier to work with.

From: dwight 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:21:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

David
Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are 
hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free.  I 
haven’t changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares.  I 
winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after haul 
out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by that mix. 
 When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull at the pump 
end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of similar sized hose to 
the pump which I use for winterizing and which after winterizing is complete 
gets suspended above the engine full to almost the top with the 50/50 mix.  
Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in a bucket of fresh water 
that is continuously supplied while I start up and run the engine on the hard 
and then before launch I remove that hose and reattach the hose to the raw 
water thru hull…easy and works great for me…I think it has been proven 
unnecessary to replace that impellor every year…consider how long they last in 
outboard motors…in my view a new one may be just as likely to fail because of 
faulty construction, I intend to go another year on the one I have installed 
now…carrying the riaght spares and tools is more important in my opinion 
because this job is not that hard to do at sea…that said I probably will change 
someday soon…hard to decide when to fix something that ain’t broke
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the water 
pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I will 
certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the 
process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that 
should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed.  I will have a 
try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going 
to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment.  I will see if the 
yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a 
puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of 
them will grab my impeller.  Dave
 
On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:


David,
Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were 
built w Yanmar.
 
Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:
I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with 
the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the 
engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing 
hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of 
rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it 
slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around it to 
protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and 
gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close 
the housing for winter storage.
 
Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years 
in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump 
housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof 
lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little messier. 
 This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve 
before starting the engine.
 
Chuck
 
From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are 
quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
 
 
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




__

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[JOHN D IRVIN]

Tip. Replace the impeller fasteners with screws which take a hex key. Much 
easier to work with.




From: dwight 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 12:21:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller



David
Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are 
hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free.  I 
haven’t changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares.  I 
winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after haul 
out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by that mix. 
 When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull at the pump 
end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of similar sized hose to 
the pump which I use for winterizing and which after winterizing is complete 
gets suspended above the engine full to almost the top with the 50/50 mix.  
Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in a bucket of fresh water 
that is continuously supplied while I start up and run the engine on the hard 
and then before launch I remove that hose and reattach the hose to the raw 
water thru hull…easy and works
 great for me…I think it has been proven unnecessary to replace that impellor 
every year…consider how long they last in outboard motors…in my view a new one 
may be just as likely to fail because of faulty construction, I intend to go 
another year on the one I have installed now…carrying the riaght spares and 
tools is more important in my opinion because this job is not that hard to do 
at sea…that said I probably will change someday soon…hard to decide when to fix 
something that ain’t broke
 



From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the water 
pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I will 
certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the 
process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that 
should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed.  I will have a 
try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going 
to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment.  I will see if the 
yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a 
puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of 
them will grab my impeller.  Dave
 
On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:


David,
Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were 
built w Yanmar.
 
Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:
I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with 
the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the 
engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing 
hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of 
rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it 
slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around it to 
protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and 
gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close 
the housing for winter storage.
 
Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years 
in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump 
housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof 
lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little messier. 
 This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve 
before starting the engine.
 
Chuck
 



From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
 
I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are 
quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
 
 
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 


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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Gmail]

Ditto.  Shouldn't be that difficult. 

For most pumps, I just grab the impeller either side of the shaft with needle 
nose pliers, wiggle the thing while pulling. Most just come right out. When 
replacing, put a little lube on the vanes and shove it in. 

The vanes will assume the proper bend after a few rotations. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:13 AM, Wwadjourn  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>Don't over think this, really.  Get some needle nose pliers (ones with 
> curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver.  Put the screwdiver on 
> the center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your 
> pulling on the impeller.  You should have no problem.  
> Bill Walker
> Evening Star,
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Sent: Sun, Mar 23, 2014 11:38 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
> 
> Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
> that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
> puller?  Dave
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:
>> 
>> David
>>  
>> What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to 
>> be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
>> impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
>> replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Knecht
>> Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list
>> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
>>  
>> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
>> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
>> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
>> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
>> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one 
>> I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
>>  
>>  
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> David Knecht, Ph.D.
> Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
> Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> U-3125
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> University of Connecticut
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 860-486-4331 (fax)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

And lubricate the new impellor before installing.I use messy vasoline

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

David,

 

Tip 1:  You should be able to free the impellor by bending/moving one rubber
vane tip, one at a time clear of the bronze housing.  Start w the straighter
ones and just nudge the tip away from the housing and let return.  Do each
one, one at a time, all the way round or enough to free the impeller.  I
don't hestitate to do this by hand or with needle nose.  Just be gentle.

 

Tip 2:  The curve of the impeller vanes indicates the rotation.  Mark the
rotation on the housing to help with re-assembly.

 

Chuck

 

  _  

From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 11:37:22 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don't want to have happen.  I gather
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller
puller?  Dave

 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:

 



David

 

What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to
be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the
impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.

 



  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 



David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 


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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

David

Hardest part is getting the cover off the pump; the nuts on those bolts are
hard to get at and you may have to use a knife edge to pry the cover free.
I haven't changed an impellor in 5 or maybe 6 years but I carry spares.  I
winterize my raw water system with 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix after
haul out in fall and so during storage my impellor is always surrounded by
that mix.  When I winterize I disconnect the hose to the raw water thru hull
at the pump end (not the thru hull end) and connect another length of
similar sized hose to the pump which I use for winterizing and which after
winterizing is complete gets suspended above the engine full to almost the
top with the 50/50 mix.  Come spring (soon I hope) I simply put that hose in
a bucket of fresh water that is continuously supplied while I start up and
run the engine on the hard and then before launch I remove that hose and
reattach the hose to the raw water thru hull.easy and works great for me.I
think it has been proven unnecessary to replace that impellor every
year.consider how long they last in outboard motors.in my view a new one may
be just as likely to fail because of faulty construction, I intend to go
another year on the one I have installed now.carrying the riaght spares and
tools is more important in my opinion because this job is not that hard to
do at sea.that said I probably will change someday soon.hard to decide when
to fix something that ain't broke

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:40 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the
water pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I
will certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to
start the process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some
time, so that should take care of the periodic starts with the intake
closed.  I will have a try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but
I suspect it is not going to come that way and I am worried about Dwight's
comment.  I will see if the yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I
don't want to spend $50-100 on a puller which should be needed only this
time when I am not convinced any of them will grab my impeller.  Dave

 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:





David,

Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses
were built w Yanmar.

 

Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:

I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it
with the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before
starting the engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and
let the housing hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show
direction of rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers
by turning it slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a
rag around it to protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of
needle nosed pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and
gently rotate and pull. I close the housing for winter storage.

 

Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last
years in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the
pump housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a
waterproof lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a
little messier.  This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to
open the intake valve before starting the engine.

 

Chuck

 

  _  

From: "David Knecht" 
To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 

___

Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Wwadjourn]

Dave,
   Don't over think this, really.  Get some needle nose pliers (ones with 
curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver.  Put the screwdiver on the 
center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your pulling 
on the impeller.  You should have no problem.  
Bill Walker
Evening Star,
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



-Original Message-
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Sent: Sun, Mar 23, 2014 11:38 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller


Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
puller?  Dave


On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:



David
 
What water pump.  I have a Sherwoodpump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to be 
very careful when pulling theimpellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
impellor drive shaft out altogether…ifI do that the job of impellor replacement 
instantaneously becomes a much biggerjob.
 



From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] OnBehalf Of David Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gearpuller

 
I need to change myimpeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the presentone, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  
I tried to useit yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of theimpeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of thepuller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite 
thick. Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 


DavidKnecht

Aries

1990C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)











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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

Yea, just push in on the impellor drive shaft with a finger on one hand (for
me the left hand) and pull on the impellor rubber blades outward and with a
twist with the other hand as chuck described.you don't want to pull that
drive shaft out and you don't want to lose the key in the keyway if possible
so I usually put a clean white rag on the bilge below the pump in case I get
clumsy

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 12:37 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don't want to have happen.  I gather
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller
puller?  Dave

 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:





David

 

What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to
be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the
impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Chuck S]

David, 

Tip 1: You should be able to free the impellor by bending/moving one rubber 
vane tip, one at a time clear of the bronze housing. Start w the straighter 
ones and just nudge the tip away from the housing and let return. Do each one, 
one at a time, all the way round or enough to free the impeller. I don't 
hestitate to do this by hand or with needle nose. Just be gentle. 

Tip 2: The curve of the impeller vanes indicates the rotation. Mark the 
rotation on the housing to help with re-assembly. 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "David Knecht"  
To: "CnC CnC discussion list"  
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 11:37:22 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller 

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen. I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen? So I really need an impeller 
puller? Dave 

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight < dwight...@gmail.com > wrote: 






David 



What water pump. I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to be 
very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job. 





From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of David 
Knecht 
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller 




I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it. 
I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between 
the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get 
the arms of the puller to grab anything. The arms on the one I bought are quite 
thick. Do I need a different tool? Thanks- Dave 








David Knecht 


Aries 


1990 C&C 34+ 


New London , CT 



 



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David Knecht, Ph.D. 
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility 
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
U-3125 
91 N. Eagleville Rd. 
University of Connecticut 
Storrs, CT 06269 
860-486-2200 
860-486-4331 (fax) 






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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[David Knecht]

Hi Chuck et al.- I have the M4-30.  This is the first time I have had the water 
pump apart so I have no idea when the impeller was last removed.  I will 
certainly keep it out for future winters, but I need to get it off to start the 
process.  I actually bought a new one that can run dry for some time, so that 
should take care of the periodic starts with the intake closed.  I will have a 
try at the wiggle/twist and pull with the pliers, but I suspect it is not going 
to come that way and I am worried about Dwight’s comment.  I will see if the 
yard will loan me a puller for this time.  I don’t want to spend $50-100 on a 
puller which should be needed only this time when I am not convinced any of 
them will grab my impeller.  Dave

On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:18 AM, Chuck S  wrote:

> David,
> Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses 
> were built w Yanmar.
> 
> Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:
> I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with 
> the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the 
> engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the 
> housing hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction 
> of rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning 
> it slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around 
> it to protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed 
> pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and 
> pull. I close the housing for winter storage.
> 
> Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years 
> in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump 
> housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof 
> lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little 
> messier.  This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the 
> intake valve before starting the engine.
> 
> Chuck
> 
> From: "David Knecht" 
> To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
> Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
> 
> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I 
> bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)





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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[David Knecht]

Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
puller?  Dave

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:

> David
>  
> What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to 
> be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
> impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
> replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht
> Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
>  
> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I 
> bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
>  
>  
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)





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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Chuck S]

David,Forget if you have the Universal M4-30 like me and Dwight?  Many 34plusses were built w Yanmar.Here's what I do after getting much advice from this list over the years:I pull the raw water pump impeller of my Sherwood every Fall and stow it with the key in a sandwich bag to remind me to put it back in before starting the engine in Spring.  I remove the three screws w a box wrench and let the housing hang by the hoses.  I mark the housing w an arrow to show direction of rotation.  I usually can pull the impeller out with my fingers by turning it slightly in the normal direction of rotation.  You can wrap a rag around it to protect your hands.  If it is stuck, I take a pair of needle nosed pliers and gently grab one of the splines near the hub and gently rotate and pull. I close the housing for winter storage.Come Spring, I usually install a new impellor or a spare and place last years in my spare parts tupperware container.  Before assembly, I open the pump housing and coat the rubber splines and wearing surfaces with a waterproof lube; lip baum sticks like Chap Stick work fine.  Vaseline is a little messier.  This protects the rubber from destruction if I forget to open the intake valve before starting the engine.ChuckFrom: "David Knecht" To: "CnC CnC discussion list" Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:49:04 AMSubject: Stus-List Impeller/gear pullerI need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Joel Aronson]

Bay Shore Marine in Annapolis makes an impeller puller.  It ;looks like a
bent hemostat.  I've also used needle nosed pliers.

Joel

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Bill Connon  wrote:

> Rich Knowles wrote:
>
>> Check this out:
>>
>> http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht > davidakne...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>  I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and
>>> difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller
>>> to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very
>>> little space between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water
>>> pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms
>>> on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks-
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>> David Knecht
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>> The Jabsco puller is a fine tool but a bit pricey for a job that you
>>> don't do too often. I got away with using a pair of needle nose vice grips.
>>>
>>
> Bill
> Caprice 1
>
>>
>>>
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Bill Connon]

Rich Knowles wrote:

Check this out:

http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502

Rich

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht > wrote:


I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and 
difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear 
puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that 
there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the 
housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller 
to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do 
I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave



David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

The Jabsco puller is a fine tool but a bit pricey for a job that you 
don't do too often. I got away with using a pair of needle nose vice 
grips.


Bill
Caprice 1




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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[dwight]

David

 

What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to
be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the
impellor drive shaft out altogether.if I do that the job of impellor
replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

 

I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty
removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove
it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space
between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I
could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one
I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Rich Knowles]

Check this out:

http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502

Rich

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one I 
> bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> 
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks

[Curtis]

Well I heard of penutbutter but not oil?


On 12/9/13, RAYMOND SHIBE  wrote:
>
> Store used impellers in a used mayonnaise jar with olive oil. They will
> be lubricated for
> installation in the spring and will not have a set as a result of
> spending the winter in the pump.
> This not an original idea on my part, it came from a Yanmar maintenance
> seminar.
> Ray Shibe
> 1984 C&C41  with a Yanmar 3HM
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks

[RAYMOND SHIBE]

Store used impellers in a used mayonnaise jar with olive oil. They will 
be lubricated for
installation in the spring and will not have a set as a result of 
spending the winter in the pump.
This not an original idea on my part, it came from a Yanmar maintenance 
seminar.

Ray Shibe
1984 C&C41  with a Yanmar 3HM

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Re: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks

[Chuck S]

I keep a tube of vaseline aboard for the water pump impeller and O-rongs on my 
speedo. Skiiers waterproof Lip Baum also works well. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, December 5, 2013 11:02:28 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks 



Anybody suggest some dish soap in the pump prior to start? Glad things worked 
out well. 
On Dec 5, 2013 10:46 AM, "Kevin Driscoll" < kevindrisc...@gmail.com > wrote: 




Finished up impeller change on my 2gm20 last night. Used the Irwin 
spreader/clamp to tension the belts after tensioning. That worked great. 
Cleaned out the strainer and the gasket disintegrated. Ended up cutting down a 
sink faucet gasket base from home depot to put it back together and keep it 
water tight. Will replace when I an find the correct version. 

Next task... Fixing or replacing expansion tank on pressure water system. Send 
your experience if you have done. 

Thanks to everybody's help. It made the work predictable and straightforward. 

Kevin 
Osprey 
30-2 

Sent from a mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks

[Bill Coleman]

My buddy is selling a nice nearly new SS expansion tank on FleaBay -
currently at $.01.  Cheap enough for a sailor!

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/drf6_gjoa/m.html?item=321261809178

&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4accb22e1a&vxp=mtr&rt=nc&_trksid=p2
047675.l2562

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2013 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks

 

Finished up impeller change on my 2gm20 last night. Used the Irwin
spreader/clamp to tension the belts after tensioning. That worked great.
Cleaned out the strainer and the gasket disintegrated. Ended up cutting down
a sink faucet gasket base from home depot to put it back together and keep
it water tight. Will replace when I an find the correct version.

Next task... Fixing or replacing expansion tank on pressure water system.
Send your experience if you have done.

Thanks to everybody's help. It made the work predictable and
straightforward.

Kevin
Osprey
30-2

Sent from a mobile device.

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Re: Stus-List Impeller change - thanks

[Josh Muckley]

Anybody suggest some dish soap in the pump prior to start?  Glad things
worked out well.
On Dec 5, 2013 10:46 AM, "Kevin Driscoll"  wrote:

> Finished up impeller change on my 2gm20 last night. Used the Irwin
> spreader/clamp to tension the belts after tensioning. That worked great.
> Cleaned out the strainer and the gasket disintegrated. Ended up cutting
> down a sink faucet gasket base from home depot to put it back together and
> keep it water tight. Will replace when I an find the correct version.
>
> Next task... Fixing or replacing expansion tank on pressure water system.
> Send your experience if you have done.
>
> Thanks to everybody's help. It made the work predictable and
> straightforward.
>
> Kevin
> Osprey
> 30-2
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Wally Bryant]

I'm not going to touch that.

you wrote:

Change the hose.  It's beginning to bulge.



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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Richard N. Bush]

Gary, your story reminds me of a problem I had, same drill, overheating with no 
ascertainable cause..(after much searching), then one day it got so bad I 
thought that maybe there was something blocking the intake opening in the 
bottom of the hull; there was; I found that there were microballoons from when 
some previous owner (not me) had faired the hull and had closed up the hole by 
about 80 percent! I cleaned it out and became a very happy camper, er, 
...boater after that!


Richard
1987 33-II and ...

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Gary Nylander 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Wed, Dec 4, 2013 9:44 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo



I have a raw water cooled 2QM15. Off and on over the 19 years I have owned her, 
I have had weird cooling problems, usually after I have run for a while, then 
sail, and then turn on the motor to go home - it squeals from what appeared to 
be overheating.
 
It got worse. I chased down the entire cooling system more than once. Replaced 
the input hose, made sure everything was clear from the input to the 
exhaust.not much help.
 
The old exhaust riser (iron pipe) finally failed and I had a new one built. 
Still a problem even with the new hose. I was looking at everything it got 
very bad...checked the water pump and found the impeller was toast. Took all 
the pieces home and glued them together to make sure I had all the parts - 
still had an overheating problem with a brand new impeller - remember, I had 
checked everything in the system and it was OK
 
Changed the sensor..no help...changed the zincs... no help... was just about to 
take the head off. Looked (again) at the hoses from the water pump into the 
engine. The hose leading to the zinc on the front (bow end) of the engine was 
mostly clogged with a very rusty piece of an impeller.
 
I have been replacing my impellers rather regularly for the 19 years I have 
owned the boat. I have never had a bad impeller until this latest one (which I 
had all the parts of). I wonder if there has been this hard, rusty piece of an 
impeller in there all this time
 
Pulled the damn thing out and the water flow is better than it has ever been!
 
As was stated - find the pieces
 
Gary
 
- Original Message - 

From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo


Some one already mentioned it but, make sure you find all of the little pieces 
of rubber from the impeller.   Hopefully none of them made it past the heat 
exchanger.  You might find a shop-vac helpful.
Josh
On Dec 3, 2013 8:40 PM, "Kevin Driscoll"  wrote:

Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see impeller and 
Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
Thanks for helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for sure!
Kevin 30-2
Sent from a mobile device.

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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Gary Nylander]

I have a raw water cooled 2QM15. Off and on over the 19 years I have owned her, 
I have had weird cooling problems, usually after I have run for a while, then 
sail, and then turn on the motor to go home - it squeals from what appeared to 
be overheating.

It got worse. I chased down the entire cooling system more than once. Replaced 
the input hose, made sure everything was clear from the input to the 
exhaust.not much help.

The old exhaust riser (iron pipe) finally failed and I had a new one built. 
Still a problem even with the new hose. I was looking at everything it got 
very bad...checked the water pump and found the impeller was toast. Took all 
the pieces home and glued them together to make sure I had all the parts - 
still had an overheating problem with a brand new impeller - remember, I had 
checked everything in the system and it was OK

Changed the sensor..no help...changed the zincs... no help... was just about to 
take the head off. Looked (again) at the hoses from the water pump into the 
engine. The hose leading to the zinc on the front (bow end) of the engine was 
mostly clogged with a very rusty piece of an impeller.

I have been replacing my impellers rather regularly for the 19 years I have 
owned the boat. I have never had a bad impeller until this latest one (which I 
had all the parts of). I wonder if there has been this hard, rusty piece of an 
impeller in there all this time

Pulled the damn thing out and the water flow is better than it has ever been!

As was stated - find the pieces

Gary

- Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 9:47 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo


  Some one already mentioned it but, make sure you find all of the little 
pieces of rubber from the impeller.   Hopefully none of them made it past the 
heat exchanger.  You might find a shop-vac helpful.

  Josh

  On Dec 3, 2013 8:40 PM, "Kevin Driscoll"  wrote:

Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see impeller and 
Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
Thanks for helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for 
sure!

Kevin 30-2

Sent from a mobile device.


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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Joel Aronson]

I'd replace the hose clamp and cut off the end of the hose while I'm at it.
It does look like the major pieces are all there!

Joel


On Wed, Dec 4, 2013 at 8:12 AM,  wrote:

>  *This probably sounds strange, but I would try to lay out and "assemble"
> the pieces to see if you've found them all. You may indeed be lucky, and
> find them all in the impeller housing. *
>
> *Bill*
>
> *MYSTY*
> *1986 Landfall 39*
> *Virginia *
>
>  In a message dated 12/4/2013 12:27:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> r...@sailpower.ca writes:
>
> It almost looks as though the missing vanes are stuck right in the pump
> body?? A good thing if they are. Nice looking boat.
>
> Rich
>
> On Dec 3, 2013, at 21:39, Kevin Driscoll  wrote:
>
>  Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see impeller
> and Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
> https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
> Thanks for helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for
> sure!
>
> Kevin 30-2
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
>
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>
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Briard6]

This probably sounds strange, but I would try  to lay out and "assemble" 
the pieces to see if you've found them all. You may  indeed be lucky, and find 
them all in the impeller housing. 
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
Virginia 
 
 
In a message dated 12/4/2013 12:27:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
r...@sailpower.ca writes:

It almost looks as though the missing vanes are stuck right in the pump  
body?? A good thing if they are. Nice looking boat. 

Rich

On Dec 3, 2013, at 21:39, Kevin Driscoll <_kevindriscoll@gmail.com_ 
(mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com) >  wrote:




Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see  impeller and 
Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
Thanks for  helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for 
sure! 
Kevin 30-2 
Sent from a mobile device.


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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Rich Knowles]

It almost looks as though the missing vanes are stuck right in the pump body?? 
A good thing if they are. Nice looking boat. 

Rich

> On Dec 3, 2013, at 21:39, Kevin Driscoll  wrote:
> 
> Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see impeller and 
> Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
> https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
> Thanks for helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for 
> sure!
> 
> Kevin 30-2
> 
> Sent from a mobile device.
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Josh Muckley]

Some one already mentioned it but, make sure you find all of the little
pieces of rubber from the impeller.   Hopefully none of them made it past
the heat exchanger.  You might find a shop-vac helpful.

Josh
On Dec 3, 2013 8:40 PM, "Kevin Driscoll"  wrote:

> Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see impeller and
> Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
> https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
> Thanks for helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for
> sure!
>
> Kevin 30-2
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>
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Re: Stus-List Impeller link to photo

[Dennis C.]

Kevin,

Change the hose.  It's beginning to bulge.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



>
> From: Kevin Driscoll 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 7:39 PM
>Subject: Stus-List Impeller link to photo
> 
>
>
>Apologies for my links not working. You should be able to see impeller and 
>Osprey's stern here at dropbox:
>https://db.tt/PcqiFwLs
>Thanks for helpful info. Going to buy one of those belt tension jacks for sure!
>Kevin 30-2
>Sent from a mobile device.
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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