Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I've used Rotella oil for years with good success. I also used Amsoil for a
spell when I was driving a lot more for work, but I barely manage 15k/year
now, so Rotella T6 5w40 in my Jetta TDI has worked well for 10 years. In my
van, which has an older VW IDI turbo diesel, similar in technology to a
Yanmar, I use either T6 (full synth) or T5 (semi-synth), for the extra heat
protection over the T4 conventional oil. My van loaded is much like pushing
a heavy boat at hull speed, and oil temps will easily approach 300F on long
hills. This is where synthetics earn their keep - I see a 10psi improvement
in hot oil pressure using T6 5w40 vs T4 15w40 when oil temps are 220+. My
1.6TD van engine was at nearly 700,000 kms before it sadly died this summer
due to a failed timing belt.
If you don't push your engine too hard, conventional Rotella T4 15w40 is
fine, but either T5 or T6 will give an extra margin of safety when things
get hot, like if your water pump fails.
As far as oil changes, most synthetics will go a long time between changes,
but in the marine environment, where more contaminants may be a factor, and
for the small amount of oil these engines use, regular annual changes make
sense. Also RW cooled engines tend to run cooler, which may result in the
oil being more likely to accumulate moisture and become acidic sooner.
Since the VW 1.6D in my 35 is not working all that hard, I plan to use T5
semi-synthetic, and this is what the PO used. It has over 4000 hrs and
doesn't burn any oil, or smoke, even when cold. In fact, it may have much
more than 4000 hrs as I discovered the hour meter is a bit lethargic, and
either runs too slow, or intermittently...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 5:01 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It’s all about the hydrodynamic film thickness provided by the oil. As
> long as that film is thicker than the major dimension of any asperities
> like surface roughness or oil borne particles that get trapped between the
> contacting surfaces then all is well from an accelerated abnormal wear
> point of view. We call it the lambda ratio which is film thickness divided
> by asperity size. You want a number greater than 1 which means no metal to
> metal contact so no wear. Anti wear additives like tricresyl phosphate in
> the oils we have nowadays build up a protective layer on the metal surfaces
> in an effort to make sure the lambda ratio stays greater than 1 and fine
> filtration traps extraneous particles that might defeat this. Our science
> is good and the engineering supports it. Again the oils we get to choose
> from are all good quality nowadays. Very good really and they can last very
> long times under our normal engine running temperatures without any thermal
> degradation.
>
> On Sat, Aug 31, 2019 at 4:55 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,
>>
>> It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced
>> yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please don't
>> change any practice that works for you on my account.
>>
>> For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the
>> cheapest thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel like
>> it. My routine was every fall except every other if I had less than 100
>> hours on that year.
>>
>> The filter gets changed much less.
>> Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty and
>> the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).
>>
>> When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use as
>> the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when loaded
>> on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the cheap, doncha
>> know!
>>
>> The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure followed
>> by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized diesel runs
>> much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.
>> Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
>> GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
>> BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas
>> rated)
>> BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils
>>
>> So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main
>> reason I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose cooling
>> capacity and don't notice right away then when "something smells HOT!"
>> happens the synthetic oil may be the difference between an inconvenience
>> and disaster.
>>
>> Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike
>> trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" by
>> putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. Synthetic is
>> too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has the JEMA rating,
>> like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on that 

Re: Stus-List engine oil

[G Collins via CnC-List]

When I bought our boat 10 years ago it came with a jug of Rotella, I just kept 
using it.  Happy so far...  Yanmar 3GM

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2019-09-03 10:27 a.m., Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote:
Ok; respectfully you guys now have me totally confused...what one swears 
by, then other would "never" dowe mere mortals, (as in not mechanics, 
scientists, or otherwise experts in the field), need to know what we can 
reliably do for our good old Yanmars...
so, can I use Rotella for diesel, (30 wt per C manual) or not...and even if 
not required, does it hurt to change the filter every year whether need or 
not...?

Many thanks and please know that I, for one, love to see and partake in this 
kind of discussion, I just need to know what to do...

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Miel 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Andrew Burton <mailto:a.burton.sai...@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 10:12 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil

For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not 
change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in my 
40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.

Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com<http://www.burtonsailing.com>
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260




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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The only safest answer is to follow the OEM recommendations.  IF Rotella T
is in the OEM viscosity range and meets the recommended SAE specs then yes
you can use it.  When changing the oil, it makes little sense to not change
the filter and yes the OEM typically recommends changing the oil at the end
of the season.  There is no "harm" to the engine in changing the oil or
filter or both more often than needed or recommended

Josh




On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 9:28 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok; respectfully you guys now have me totally confused...what one
> swears by, then other would "never" dowe mere mortals, (as in not
> mechanics, scientists, or otherwise experts in the field), need to know
> what we can reliably do for our good old Yanmars...
> so, can I use Rotella for diesel, (30 wt per C manual) or not...and even
> if not required, does it hurt to change the filter every year whether need
> or not...?
>
> Many thanks and please know that I, for one, love to see and partake in
> this kind of discussion, I just need to know what to do...
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Miel 584.4
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Andrew Burton 
> Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 10:12 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil
>
> For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not
> change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in
> my 40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was
> told absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

You will never go wrong with a fresh oil change before haul out for winter
storage. Just make sure the engine is warm before you drain it and then run
it up to usual operating temp to circulate the new oil before you shut down
for winter storage. Shell Rotella  is very good oil. I would advise to use
a non synthetic. And you will never go wrong with a filter change either so
by all means yes change it when you change the oil. Choose a good rated
filter. I use NAPA gold on my Universal M4-30 diesel and a multigrade
diesel lube oil from Canadian Tire or Walmart. Something like 15w-40 will
be just fine.

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 10:28 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok; respectfully you guys now have me totally confused...what one
> swears by, then other would "never" dowe mere mortals, (as in not
> mechanics, scientists, or otherwise experts in the field), need to know
> what we can reliably do for our good old Yanmars...
> so, can I use Rotella for diesel, (30 wt per C manual) or not...and even
> if not required, does it hurt to change the filter every year whether need
> or not...?
>
> Many thanks and please know that I, for one, love to see and partake in
> this kind of discussion, I just need to know what to do...
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Miel 584.4
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/2950+Breckenridge+Lane?entry=gmail=g>,
> Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Andrew Burton 
> Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 10:12 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil
>
> For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not
> change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in
> my 40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was
> told absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/139+Tuckerman+Ave+%0D%0A%0D%0A+Middletown,+RI+%0D%0A%0D%0A+USA++02842?entry=gmail=g>
>
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/139+Tuckerman+Ave+%0D%0A%0D%0A+Middletown,+RI+%0D%0A%0D%0A+USA++02842?entry=gmail=g>
> Middletown, RI
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/139+Tuckerman+Ave+%0D%0A%0D%0A+Middletown,+RI+%0D%0A%0D%0A+USA++02842?entry=gmail=g>
>
>
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/139+Tuckerman+Ave+%0D%0A%0D%0A+Middletown,+RI+%0D%0A%0D%0A+USA++02842?entry=gmail=g>
> USA
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/139+Tuckerman+Ave+%0D%0A%0D%0A+Middletown,+RI+%0D%0A%0D%0A+USA++02842?entry=gmail=g>
>  02842
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/139+Tuckerman+Ave+%0D%0A%0D%0A+Middletown,+RI+%0D%0A%0D%0A+USA++02842?entry=gmail=g>
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

OK, Richard, I'm in.
Oil:
 You can never be wrong following the manufacturer's recommendations
(Yamaha).  The biggest advantage of the new synthetic oils is longevity.
Most of us change the oil and filter every fall and put very few hours on
our engines.  Therefore, longevity is not that important.  Of course, yeah
I know, there are other advantages of the synthetics, but the
manufacturer's recommendations are king and therefore I use their
recommendations.  When synthetics first came out, some manufacturers would
void your warranty for not using the recommended lubricants.  I use
synthetics in my cars, but they were designed for them.

Filters:
 Again the manufacturer's recommendations should be followed, but most
of us do not put anywhere near enough hours on our auxiliaries to warrant
changing the filter more than once a season.

Recommendations:
 Yanmar recommends changing the oil every 100 hours and the filter
every 300 hours for a GM or HM engine.  Shell Rotella is one of the oils
they recommend.  Otherwise, change oil and filter every fall, so the acid
and moisture-laden lubricants from the summer don't sit in the engine all
winter.  Save your money for a good glass of bourbon. That's what I do.

All the best,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 9:28 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok; respectfully you guys now have me totally confused...what one
> swears by, then other would "never" dowe mere mortals, (as in not
> mechanics, scientists, or otherwise experts in the field), need to know
> what we can reliably do for our good old Yanmars...
> so, can I use Rotella for diesel, (30 wt per C manual) or not...and even
> if not required, does it hurt to change the filter every year whether need
> or not...?
>
> Many thanks and please know that I, for one, love to see and partake in
> this kind of discussion, I just need to know what to do...
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Miel 584.4
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Andrew Burton 
> Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 10:12 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil
>
> For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not
> change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in
> my 40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was
> told absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List]

Richard,If the Rotella oil has the same rating required  by your manual, you 
should be covered. Just dont use oil that is for a gas engine. I did this in an 
old VWdiesel car. Within 1000 miles i was rebuilding the engine. I use Delo 400 
in my yanmar, because I bought 10 gallons for half price. If you wanted you 
could change you filter monthly. Doing it once a year, your oil every other is 
in MHO ok. The biggest thing we can do for our diesel engines is run them at 
full cruise power for at least an hour on a regular basis. I say, because a 
friend would run his diesel just long enough to get in and out of the marina. 
Never letting the engine get fully warmed up. It finally died from a severe 
lack of compression.  Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C LF39253-208-1412Port 
Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/3/19  06:27  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Richard Bush  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List engine oil 

Ok; respectfully you guys now have me totally confused...what one swears 
by, then other would "never" dowe mere mortals, (as in not mechanics, 
scientists, or otherwise experts in the field), need to know what we can 
reliably do for our good old Yanmars...  


so, can I use Rotella for diesel, (30 wt per C manual) or not...and even if 
not required, does it hurt to change the filter every year whether need or 
not...?  


 



Many thanks and please know that I, for one, love to see and partake in this 
kind of discussion, I just need to know what to do...





Richard

 

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Miel 584.4








Richard N. Bush 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255


 


 


-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 10:12 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil



For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not 
change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in my 
40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.


Andy
Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave

Middletown, RI 

USA    02842



www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260











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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

Ok; respectfully you guys now have me totally confused...what one swears 
by, then other would "never" dowe mere mortals, (as in not mechanics, 
scientists, or otherwise experts in the field), need to know what we can 
reliably do for our good old Yanmars...  
so, can I use Rotella for diesel, (30 wt per C manual) or not...and even if 
not required, does it hurt to change the filter every year whether need or 
not...?  
 
Many thanks and please know that I, for one, love to see and partake in this 
kind of discussion, I just need to know what to do...

Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Miel 584.4


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 10:12 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil

For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not 
change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in my 
40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.
Andy

Andrew Burton139 Tuckerman AveMiddletown, RI USA    02842
www.burtonsailing.comhttp://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401
 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Same happened to a friend with an old Jeep truck.  Smoked so bad he could fog 
for misquitoes.That's why I wondered if the same would be true for an old 
diesel in a boat.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

On Sunday, September 1, 2019, 12:15:20 PM CDT, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I wanted to 
treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice detergent 
10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and engine pretty 
much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see out the rear view 
mirror.

Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

On Sep 1, 2019, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2019 17:36:28 + (UTC)
From: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
To: C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil

Message-ID: <1270410097.716485.1567272988...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in an 
old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.? The claim was that 
it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.It's highly 
recommended for newer cars of course.I would presume the same would be true for 
marine engines, unless the fact that they're diesels would make a 
difference???Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true 
or not?RonWild CheriC 30-1?STL
-- next part --
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

David,

If you're asking about not changing the oil AND filter at the same time,
then yes you may be able to get away with longer service intervals.  If you
are asking about changing the oil but not the filter then I would say that
that is a misrepresentation of the advice provided here.  On the other
hand, changing the filter but not the oil might be an acceptable strategy
if you knowingly have a poor quality filter but exceptional oil.  In some
circumstances there are oil filter d/p gages and changing the filter
conservatively based on d/p would be appropriate.

Josh

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 10:06 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just to get a consensus...my changing the filter (oil yes of course) every
> year is an unnecessary mess then?
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 1, 2019 1:14:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia 
> *Subject:* Stus-List engine oil
>
> As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I
> wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice
> detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and
> engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see
> out the rear view mirror.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Sep 1, 2019, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2019 17:36:28 + (UTC)
> From: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
> To: C List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil
>
> Message-ID: <1270410097.716485.1567272988...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in
> an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.? The claim was
> that it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.It's
> highly recommended for newer cars of course.I would presume the same would
> be true for marine engines, unless the fact that they're diesels would make
> a difference???Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether
> it's true or not?RonWild CheriC 30-1?STL
> -- next part --
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Andy,

It might be time for your mechanic to update his 
old info. It's not his father's synthetic oil on the market these days.


A simple gargle search:
http://gcocregina.ca/can-synthetic-oil-be-used-in-older-vehicles/
https://myengineneeds.com/what-synthetic-oil-is-better-for-older-cars/
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/blog/synthetic-oil-safe-older-truck


As I say, oil is the cheapest thing a yachtsman 
buys for his precious boat. Why not spend the 
extra 20 bucks a year and get the best? Think 
anchor gear... most years you don't need the best 
gear so why haul all that extra weight around?


`   Cheers, Russ


At 07:11 AM 9/2/2019, you wrote:
For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils 
and I wouldn’t think of not change the filter 
with each oil change. When I installed the new 
engine in my 40 two years ago I asked the 
mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.


Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils and I wouldn’t think of not 
change the filter with each oil change. When I installed the new engine in my 
40 two years ago I asked the mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.

Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:05, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just to get a consensus...my changing the filter (oil yes of course) every 
> year is an unnecessary mess then?
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2019 1:14:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Stus-List engine oil
>  
> As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I wanted 
> to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice 
> detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and 
> engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see 
> out the rear view mirror.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Sep 1, 2019, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2019 17:36:28 + (UTC)
>> From: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
>> To: C List 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil
>> Message-ID: <1270410097.716485.1567272988...@mail.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in an 
>> old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.? The claim was 
>> that it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.It's 
>> highly recommended for newer cars of course.I would presume the same would 
>> be true for marine engines, unless the fact that they're diesels would make 
>> a difference???Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's 
>> true or not?RonWild CheriC 30-1?STL
>> -- next part --
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Just to get a consensus...my changing the filter (oil yes of course) every year 
is an unnecessary mess then?

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2019 1:14:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List engine oil

As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I wanted to 
treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice detergent 
10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and engine pretty 
much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see out the rear view 
mirror.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


On Sep 1, 2019, at 9:00 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2019 17:36:28 + (UTC)
From: "Ronald B. Frerker" mailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.com>>
To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil
Message-ID: 
<1270410097.716485.1567272988...@mail.yahoo.com<mailto:1270410097.716485.1567272988...@mail.yahoo.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in an 
old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.? The claim was that 
it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.It's highly 
recommended for newer cars of course.I would presume the same would be true for 
marine engines, unless the fact that they're diesels would make a 
difference???Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true 
or not?RonWild CheriC 30-1?STL
-- next part --
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Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Sort of like a big laxative I guess. Cleaned out!!

On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 8:45 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Gosh, I haven't heard Scott-Atwater in decades.  My Dad bought an old used
> Elgin 5 hp outboard in the 50's.  We would rent a skiff from a marina in
> Big Lagoon near Pensacola, attach the Elgin and go fish near Fort Pickens.
> I sail Touche' near Fort Pickens nearly every week and was just in Big
> Lagoon a couple weeks ago.
>
> We occasionally dine at Flounders Restaurant on Pensacola Beach.  For
> decor, they have lots of old outboards hanging above the tables.  I often
> wonder if my Dad's old Elgin is one of them.
>
> Another tale, when I bought Touche' the old Atomic 4 hadn't been run in
> years.  Took me a while to get it running.  When I finally got it started I
> wanted to clean the valve train and top works.  An old shade tree mechanic
> trick is to throttle it up and pour automatic transmission fluid in the
> carburetor.  Do NOT do this when folks are in your marina.  It smokes like
> crazy.  I waited until late evening when the marina was deserted.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 2:29 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an
>> auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood runabout
>> but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and folk lore of the
>> day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning powder) could restore an
>> engine.
>>
>> We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box into
>> the carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started climbing and
>> the boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two season before I got
>> a nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder gunked up the piston &
>> cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance.
>>
>> I would not recommend the practice.
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1
>>
>> At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote:
>>
>> As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I
>> wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice
>> detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and
>> engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see
>> out the rear view mirror.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

It’s all about the hydrodynamic film thickness provided by the oil. As long
as that film is thicker than the major dimension of any asperities like
surface roughness or oil borne particles that get trapped between the
contacting surfaces then all is well from an accelerated abnormal wear
point of view. We call it the lambda ratio which is film thickness divided
by asperity size. You want a number greater than 1 which means no metal to
metal contact so no wear. Anti wear additives like tricresyl phosphate in
the oils we have nowadays build up a protective layer on the metal surfaces
in an effort to make sure the lambda ratio stays greater than 1 and fine
filtration traps extraneous particles that might defeat this. Our science
is good and the engineering supports it. Again the oils we get to choose
from are all good quality nowadays. Very good really and they can last very
long times under our normal engine running temperatures without any thermal
degradation.

On Sat, Aug 31, 2019 at 4:55 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,
>
> It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced
> yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please don't
> change any practice that works for you on my account.
>
> For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the cheapest
> thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel like it. My
> routine was every fall except every other if I had less than 100 hours on
> that year.
>
> The filter gets changed much less.
> Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty and
> the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).
>
> When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use as
> the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when loaded
> on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the cheap, doncha
> know!
>
> The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure followed
> by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized diesel runs
> much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.
> Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
> GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
> BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas
> rated)
> BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils
>
> So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main reason
> I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose cooling capacity
> and don't notice right away then when "something smells HOT!" happens the
> synthetic oil may be the difference between an inconvenience and disaster.
>
> Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike
> trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" by
> putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. Synthetic is
> too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has the JEMA rating,
> like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on that oil change with
> only putting in top-ups.  Not recommended at all but demonstrates the
> quality of regular rated diesel oil.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 10:36 AM 8/31/2019, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>  boundary="=_Part_716484_1681950774.1567272988188"
> Content-Length: 1916
>
>
>
> I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in
> an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.  The claim was
> that it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.
> It's highly recommended for newer cars of course.
> I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless the fact
> that they're diesels would make a difference???
> Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Gosh, I haven't heard Scott-Atwater in decades.  My Dad bought an old used
Elgin 5 hp outboard in the 50's.  We would rent a skiff from a marina in
Big Lagoon near Pensacola, attach the Elgin and go fish near Fort Pickens.
I sail Touche' near Fort Pickens nearly every week and was just in Big
Lagoon a couple weeks ago.

We occasionally dine at Flounders Restaurant on Pensacola Beach.  For
decor, they have lots of old outboards hanging above the tables.  I often
wonder if my Dad's old Elgin is one of them.

Another tale, when I bought Touche' the old Atomic 4 hadn't been run in
years.  Took me a while to get it running.  When I finally got it started I
wanted to clean the valve train and top works.  An old shade tree mechanic
trick is to throttle it up and pour automatic transmission fluid in the
carburetor.  Do NOT do this when folks are in your marina.  It smokes like
crazy.  I waited until late evening when the marina was deserted.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 2:29 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an
> auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood runabout
> but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and folk lore of the
> day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning powder) could restore an
> engine.
>
> We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box into the
> carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started climbing and the
> boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two season before I got a
> nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder gunked up the piston &
> cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance.
>
> I would not recommend the practice.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote:
>
> As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I
> wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice
> detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and
> engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see
> out the rear view mirror.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an 
auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood 
runabout but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and 
folk lore of the day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning 
powder) could restore an engine.


We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box 
into the carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started 
climbing and the boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two 
season before I got a nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder 
gunked up the piston & cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance.


I would not recommend the practice.

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote:
As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I 
wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used 
a nice detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the 
bearings and engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil 
that a could not see out the rear view mirror.


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,

It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced 
yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please 
don't change any practice that works for you on my account.


For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the 
cheapest thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel 
like it. My routine was every fall except every other if I had less 
than 100 hours on that year.


The filter gets changed much less.
Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty 
and the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).


When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use 
as the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when 
loaded on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the 
cheap, doncha know!


The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure 
followed by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized 
diesel runs much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.

Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas rated)
BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils

So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main 
reason I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose 
cooling capacity and don't notice right away then when "something 
smells HOT!" happens the synthetic oil may be the difference between 
an inconvenience and disaster.


Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike 
trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" 
by putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. 
Synthetic is too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has 
the JEMA rating, like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on 
that oil change with only putting in top-ups.  Not recommended at all 
but demonstrates the quality of regular rated diesel oil.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:36 AM 8/31/2019, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_716484_1681950774.1567272988188"
Content-Length: 1916

I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic 
oil in an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its 
life.  The claim was that it would clean the engine too good and it 
would start leaking.

It's highly recommended for newer cars of course.
I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless 
the fact that they're diesels would make a difference???

Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That theory is in fact out there and wide spread.  I've also heard that it
was part of a disinformation campaign by Mobil when they simply couldn't
compete with synthetic oil makers.  To go with that story I've been told
that Amsoil engineers got so tired of dealing with the bad press of failed
Mobil synthetics that they went to Mobil and provided information on making
a better product.  For what it is worth, Amsoil has been promoting extended
oil change intervals for almost 40 years while everyone else is sticking
with 3000 miles.  It's only been in the last decade or so that oil
manufacturers (Mobil specifically) and OEMs have started increasing the
service interval.  The OEM argument being that you have to provide guidance
according to the lowest available common technology - knowing and excepting
that some owners will be cheap, use crappy oil and miss oils changes and
then blame the OEM for having a crappy product.

I think the only reasonable time when the leak theory might hold water is
in the case that a rubber (not silicone) gasket has been in service for a
while.  Depending on the additives maybe the rubber swells or looses
adhesion.  Every head gasket and exhaust gasket I've ever seen are
metal/lead, that leaves timing cover, valve cover, and oil pan as oil
exposed gaskets.  Not really pressurized and often times as easy to fix as
torquing the bolts - also hard to blame on the oil.  YMMV

Josh


On Sat, Aug 31, 2019, 1:37 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in
> an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.  The claim was
> that it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.
> It's highly recommended for newer cars of course.
> I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless the fact
> that they're diesels would make a difference???
> Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in an 
old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.  The claim was that 
it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.It's highly 
recommended for newer cars of course.I would presume the same would be true for 
marine engines, unless the fact that they're diesels would make a 
difference???Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true 
or not?RonWild CheriC 30-1 STL
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dwight,

All of your points are very accurate.  Many people in my past have said,
"Well I'll just get the oil changed at Jiffy Lube.  It will be cheaper and
I'll have peace of mind that I have new oil and have followed the OEM
recommendations."  For me the value of seeing things like water, glycol,
fuel, and soot tell me more about the engine than about the oil.  I gain
peace of mind that everything is still working properly while
simultaneously reducing my oil disposal impacts for less than an oil and
filter change (good oil and filter).  I'm not an Eco-vigilanty but I do
have a predisposition to not dispose of stuff until it is worn out.  It's a
curse really.  You should see my cars, electronics, and wardrobe!  Haha!

Josh



On Sat, Aug 31, 2019, 6:23 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That is an extensive analysis for $25. TBN Trending is useful as is
> trending for wear metals but in large volume systems trending can be
> complicated by the addition of any new oil added to top up as this is often
> done without keeping a record of how much oil was added to top up. This
> type of analysis is very cost effective for large engines that may hold
> hundreds of gallons of lube oil but not so much for our boats where 3 or 4
> L of suitable new oil can be bought for about the cost of analysis. So i
> change oil in the fall before haul out to check for water and for peace of
> mind but I only change the filter every second or 3rd year. I figure if the
> filter is clogged it is probably already too late. I have dissected filters
> to look for visible debris with not much to report bearing in mind that
> particles i could see would have to be larger than about 40 microns. The
> anti oxidant, anti wear and anti corrosion additives and viscosity index
> improvers are good for very long term use. Water (salt or fresh) and fuel
> dilution are the most often found contaminants in marine diesel oils.
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019 at 7:05 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> One of the biggest reasons an oil "wears out" is that the acids build up
>> and the oil's pH is too low.  If you know the starting base number you can
>> track it and predict when it will be "exhausted".  I use Amsoil Marine
>> Diesel Oil 10w40.  It has a TBN of 12 and I send samples off to be
>> analyzed.  There are lots of different parameters checked and any one of
>> them can create call for an oil change.  The recommendation comes back from
>> the lab in about a week and the service costs about $25 including
>> shipping.  This is almost the exact same service that we do on the three
>> 3.5Mw and two 5 Mw diesel generators where I work.  We only change the oil
>> after a major overhaul.  You don't have to use Amsoil to use the analysis
>> service.  As I recall I haven't changed the oil in almost 3 years.
>>
>> Here is a copy of my last report.
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

That is an extensive analysis for $25. TBN Trending is useful as is
trending for wear metals but in large volume systems trending can be
complicated by the addition of any new oil added to top up as this is often
done without keeping a record of how much oil was added to top up. This
type of analysis is very cost effective for large engines that may hold
hundreds of gallons of lube oil but not so much for our boats where 3 or 4
L of suitable new oil can be bought for about the cost of analysis. So i
change oil in the fall before haul out to check for water and for peace of
mind but I only change the filter every second or 3rd year. I figure if the
filter is clogged it is probably already too late. I have dissected filters
to look for visible debris with not much to report bearing in mind that
particles i could see would have to be larger than about 40 microns. The
anti oxidant, anti wear and anti corrosion additives and viscosity index
improvers are good for very long term use. Water (salt or fresh) and fuel
dilution are the most often found contaminants in marine diesel oils.

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019 at 7:05 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of the biggest reasons an oil "wears out" is that the acids build up
> and the oil's pH is too low.  If you know the starting base number you can
> track it and predict when it will be "exhausted".  I use Amsoil Marine
> Diesel Oil 10w40.  It has a TBN of 12 and I send samples off to be
> analyzed.  There are lots of different parameters checked and any one of
> them can create call for an oil change.  The recommendation comes back from
> the lab in about a week and the service costs about $25 including
> shipping.  This is almost the exact same service that we do on the three
> 3.5Mw and two 5 Mw diesel generators where I work.  We only change the oil
> after a major overhaul.  You don't have to use Amsoil to use the analysis
> service.  As I recall I haven't changed the oil in almost 3 years.
>
> Here is a copy of my last report.
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yes 100%.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/diesel/sae-15w-40-heavy-duty-diesel-and-marine-motor-oil/

I used to use their full syn in my 98 Pontiac Grand Prix.  Car had 257,000
miles when the new-ish and upgraded double roller timing chain brokeno
fault of the oil.  Sample and analyze once a year... Only change when they
tell me to.  That oil was their signature series rated at 35,000 miles.
Speaking of, I just checked and the marine diesel oil is rated at
50,000miles or 600hrs.



Josh

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 9:06 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Is the Amsoil you use synthetic Josh?
> Wade
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 17:05 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> One of the biggest reasons an oil "wears out" is that the acids build up
>> and the oil's pH is too low.  If you know the starting base number you can
>> track it and predict when it will be "exhausted".  I use Amsoil Marine
>> Diesel Oil 10w40.  It has a TBN of 12 and I send samples off to be
>> analyzed.  There are lots of different parameters checked and any one of
>> them can create call for an oil change.  The recommendation comes back from
>> the lab in about a week and the service costs about $25 including
>> shipping.  This is almost the exact same service that we do on the three
>> 3.5Mw and two 5 Mw diesel generators where I work.  We only change the oil
>> after a major overhaul.  You don't have to use Amsoil to use the analysis
>> service.  As I recall I haven't changed the oil in almost 3 years.
>>
>> Here is a copy of my last report.
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Is the Amsoil you use synthetic Josh?
Wade

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 17:05 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of the biggest reasons an oil "wears out" is that the acids build up
> and the oil's pH is too low.  If you know the starting base number you can
> track it and predict when it will be "exhausted".  I use Amsoil Marine
> Diesel Oil 10w40.  It has a TBN of 12 and I send samples off to be
> analyzed.  There are lots of different parameters checked and any one of
> them can create call for an oil change.  The recommendation comes back from
> the lab in about a week and the service costs about $25 including
> shipping.  This is almost the exact same service that we do on the three
> 3.5Mw and two 5 Mw diesel generators where I work.  We only change the oil
> after a major overhaul.  You don't have to use Amsoil to use the analysis
> service.  As I recall I haven't changed the oil in almost 3 years.
>
> Here is a copy of my last report.
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
>> Yanmar 2GM?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

One of the biggest reasons an oil "wears out" is that the acids build up
and the oil's pH is too low.  If you know the starting base number you can
track it and predict when it will be "exhausted".  I use Amsoil Marine
Diesel Oil 10w40.  It has a TBN of 12 and I send samples off to be
analyzed.  There are lots of different parameters checked and any one of
them can create call for an oil change.  The recommendation comes back from
the lab in about a week and the service costs about $25 including
shipping.  This is almost the exact same service that we do on the three
3.5Mw and two 5 Mw diesel generators where I work.  We only change the oil
after a major overhaul.  You don't have to use Amsoil to use the analysis
service.  As I recall I haven't changed the oil in almost 3 years.

Here is a copy of my last report.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
> Yanmar 2GM?
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 1:47 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
> Yanmar 2GM?
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List engine oil

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Yea i waste a lot of good diesel lube oil too by changing every fall, about
3 liters a year but it goes to recycle. I don’t change the filter every
year but i do a visual foe evidence of water in the oil. I have a universal
M4-30 diesel engine and I use 10w-40 diesel lube oil from Walmart, Canadian
Tire or wherever. They all meet or exceed SAE specs so not much different.
It’s always black at the end of the season, which is usually less than 50
hours of use i consider that normal and so far so evidence of water. Point
is modern day diesel lube oils synthetic or not are all good.

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019 at 5:56 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rotella oil for diesels is what I use.  The owner's manual will specify a
> certain type and I'd use that.
>
>
> My engine is from 1989 and not a lot of hours use, but the oil turns black
> after I run the engine.  My diesel mechanic says that is not a problem.   I
> changed the oil twice many years ago and saw no improvement, so I just
> accept that.  I only use about 10 gallons of diesel fuel each year and
> change the oil in the Fall after a long run and the engine is hot.  I pull
> the old oil from the bottom of the pan and change the filter each time.
>
>
> Chuck S
>
>
> On August 30, 2019 at 4:24 PM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Wade, are you sure the 30W is not just for the transmission? my 2GM20F
> manual says 15W-40 for the engine and 30W for the transmission.
>
> Maybe it's different for your 2GM.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>
>
> --
> *De :* CnC-List  de la part de Wade Glew
> via CnC-List 
> *Envoyé :* 30 août 2019 16:04
> *À :* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc :* Wade Glew 
> *Objet :* Re: Stus-List engine oil
>
> Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W
> recommended in the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C
> (50-90 F)
> Wade
>
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Would not hesitate.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
> Yanmar 2GM?
> >
> > Wade
> > Oh Boy 33 MK II
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The oil turns black, most likely, from the deposits that it washes away (as 
opposed to getting burned).

I use 15W-40 (in a Perkins, mind you)

Marek

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2019 4:55:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil


Rotella oil for diesels is what I use.  The owner's manual will specify a 
certain type and I'd use that.


My engine is from 1989 and not a lot of hours use, but the oil turns black 
after I run the engine.  My diesel mechanic says that is not a problem.   I 
changed the oil twice many years ago and saw no improvement, so I just accept 
that.  I only use about 10 gallons of diesel fuel each year and change the oil 
in the Fall after a long run and the engine is hot.  I pull the old oil from 
the bottom of the pan and change the filter each time.


Chuck S


On August 30, 2019 at 4:24 PM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Wade, are you sure the 30W is not just for the transmission? my 2GM20F manual 
says 15W-40 for the engine and 30W for the transmission.

Maybe it's different for your 2GM.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc



De : CnC-List  de la part de Wade Glew via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 30 août 2019 16:04
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc : Wade Glew 
Objet : Re: Stus-List engine oil

Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W recommended in 
the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C (50-90 F)
Wade

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List, < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Would not hesitate.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar 
> 2GM?
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Rotella oil for diesels is what I use.  The owner's manual will specify a 
certain type and I'd use that.  


My engine is from 1989 and not a lot of hours use, but the oil turns black 
after I run the engine.  My diesel mechanic says that is not a problem.   I 
changed the oil twice many years ago and saw no improvement, so I just accept 
that.  I only use about 10 gallons of diesel fuel each year and change the oil 
in the Fall after a long run and the engine is hot.  I pull the old oil from 
the bottom of the pan and change the filter each time. 


Chuck S


> On August 30, 2019 at 4:24 PM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wade, are you sure the 30W is not just for the transmission? my 2GM20F 
> manual says 15W-40 for the engine and 30W for the transmission.
> 
> Maybe it's different for your 2GM.
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
>  
> 
> 
> -
> De : CnC-List  de la part de Wade Glew via 
> CnC-List 
> Envoyé : 30 août 2019 16:04
> À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc : Wade Glew 
> Objet : Re: Stus-List engine oil
>  
> Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W 
> recommended in the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C 
> (50-90 F)
> Wade 
> 
> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List, < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Would not hesitate.
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> > > On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > >
> > > Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 
> > 1986 Yanmar 2GM?
> > >
> > > Wade
> > > Oh Boy 33 MK II
> > > ___
> > >
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
> >  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> > list - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > >
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Wade, are you sure the 30W is not just for the transmission? my 2GM20F manual 
says 15W-40 for the engine and 30W for the transmission.

Maybe it's different for your 2GM.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc


De : CnC-List  de la part de Wade Glew via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 30 août 2019 16:04
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc : Wade Glew 
Objet : Re: Stus-List engine oil

Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W recommended in 
the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C (50-90 F)
Wade

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Would not hesitate.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar 
> 2GM?
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I’d stick with what the manual says. Oil is one of the most important things 
for keeping your engine running a long time. It's not worth it to bend the 
rules.



Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 30, 2019, at 16:04, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W recommended 
> in the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C (50-90 F)
> Wade 
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List,  
>> wrote:
>> Would not hesitate.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> > 
>> > Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 
>> > Yanmar 2GM?
>> > 
>> > Wade
>> > Oh Boy 33 MK II
>> > ___
>> > 
>> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> > 
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Thanks. Can I use a multi grade (say 10W-40) instead of the 30W recommended
in the engine manual?  Operating temp range here is 10-30 C (50-90 F)
Wade

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 14:37 John Irvin via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Would not hesitate.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986
> Yanmar 2GM?
> >
> > Wade
> > Oh Boy 33 MK II
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Would not hesitate.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2019, at 1:47 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar 
> 2GM?
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Bill via CnC-List]

Yes.You can ask, that is_However, don't do it! I did that in a 1973 Perkins, and It continued to run. However after I did it, I read a lot of stories and articles that said not to use synthetic oil in older engines. The engines were not designed for it. I have also heard stories of them starting to leak, although I cannot verify that. Modern car engines are designed for synthetic and you absolutely should use synthet in those, however these were not engineered for it. Another more common sense reason, is that it is strongly recommended to change your oil in the fall, so it doesn't sit with acidic oil and it all winter. And, seeing as how most of us generally don't use more than 20 or 40 gallons of diesel a year, these engines are generally bathed in pretty clean oil. My Yanmar has around 2500 hours on it, and the oil still looks pristine even towards the end of the season.Bill ColemanErie PAOn Aug 30, 2019 1:46 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  wrote:Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 Yanmar 2GM?WadeOh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Yes, you certainly can ask.

For the record Wade, Shell Rotella is my "go to" oil. A wonderful 
choice for that engine. I even use Triple-T (non-synthetic) in the motorcyles.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet. mk-1


At 10:46 AM 8/30/2019, you wrote:
Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 
Yanmar 2GM?


Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
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contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Check out rotella t6 5w-40 synthetic I use that in my truck but i use
ordinary walmart 15w-40 in my universal m4-30 on Alianna. Go figure its all
good oil nowadays just check the specs i change the oil in my m4-30 every
year; the filter every second year. I use napa gold filters oil and fuel.

On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 7:35 AM Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is many flavor of Rotella. I use Rotella T6 10W40 in my Universal
> M4-30, and 0W40 in all my VW TDI (pre 2006).
>
> Pierre Tremblay
>
> Avalanche #54988
>
> C WK, hull #76
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I'm so accustom to the Blackstone report (for 13 years) that it works for
me.  They cover all the elements and the properties, they have a good
comments section, universal averages (which I know will not be as useful
being marine averages will not have the sampling numbers, perhaps), and
they show a running history of the numbers to track trends.


On Mon, Nov 26, 2018 at 3:08 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill, we use Blackstone at work.  I posted a link to the latest pdf report
> from oil analyzers.  Does your report look to be equally comprehensive?
> I've not priced the competition since
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bill, we use Blackstone at work.  I posted a link to the latest pdf report
from oil analyzers.  Does your report look to be equally comprehensive?
I've not priced the competition since Amsoil makes the process so easy.  If
both reports are equal I would advise others to simply shop based on
availability and price.

Josh



On Mon, Nov 26, 2018, 3:09 PM Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Blackstone does mine.
> Blackstone-labs.com
>
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25-2
>
> > On Nov 26, 2018, at 1:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Josh- Where do you get the oil analysis done?
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Blackstone does mine.
Blackstone-labs.com

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2

> On Nov 26, 2018, at 1:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Josh- Where do you get the oil analysis done?   
> 

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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Oil analyzers.  https://www.eoilreports.com

Here are the most recent sample results.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Nov 26, 2018 2:12 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi Josh- Where do you get the oil analysis done?   Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT


On Nov 22, 2018, at 8:00 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I use no additional additives in the oil.  When we got the boat 6.5 years
ago, the PO had somehow added gasoline to the diesel fuel.  The engine
would start easy and run stong-ish until it warmed up.  Then act as though
air had gotten in the fuel and die.  No amount of bleeding would restore
its operation.  During the first year it was difficult to get a feel for
"running good".  The first winter we hauled out to have the rudder
rebuilt.  Second year was fine but small air leaks and an ineffective means
of venting the fuel system continued to occasionally plague operation of
the boat.  Second winter we kept it in the water.  In the spring, we
started the engine to bring it over for a short haul.  The dipstick blew
out and sprayed oil while the engine continuing to run, albeit rough.  We
made it to the travel lift just in time for the engine to die.  1 week
later after being relaunched the engine would turn freely but not start.  I
found that cylinder 1&2 had low compression and have since assumed that
they had stuck rings.  The prevailing theory is that the water lift muffler
push/pulled moist air in/out of the engine as the boat rocked all winter
long.  Eventually, the application of penetrating oil in the cylinders was
able to finally work the rings free.  The engine ran well but still showed
signs of high crankcase pressure caused by excessive blow-by.  The dipstick
could blow loose and the breather would accumulate a lot of oil.  I
installed a breather catch can and accumulated almost 1/4 of the volume in
the first year.

We run about 50 to 75 hours each year and since the stuck rings 4 years ago
the accumulation of oil has subsided.  The can is still 1/4 full.  I've
rechecked the compression and now all cylinders read high and equal.  IMO
poor maintenance by the PO contributed/caused most of the problems I
experienced.  My use of quality oil and sample analysis has contributed to
the reversal of the poor operation.

The only additional additive that I use if Opti-Lube XPD but it is a fuel
additive not oil.  I swear by it.

Here are some videos of mine which you might find useful.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

https://youtu.be/F7KD1_EZmU4

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:38 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> thanks Josh
> I notice Sea Hawk is a 1989 boat.   My boat is a 1986 with Yanmar 2GM20F
> so we are close in years.  No issues with synthetic in older engines?
> Also, do you put in any oil additives routinely?
>
> thanks,Wade
>
> Oh Boy
> C 33 MK II
> Lake of the Woods
>
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:30 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, fully synthetic.
>>
>> Evidently in the early 70's Amsoil started developing and marketing
>> synthetic oil.  Mobile came out and tried to compete but made an inferior
>> product.  Unfortunately the public already knew and used Mobile products so
>> when the Mobile synthetic didn't deliver on their promises, it made a bad
>> name for synthetics as a whole.  As the story goes, Amsoil came to mobile
>> and proposed to show them how to make a synthetic so that the technology
>> would be embraced.
>>
>> Amsoil has been pioneering ultra efficient oils and extended interval oil
>> changes for almost 50 years.  Under the older engine technology they would
>> simply have you change the filter and top up the sump, no change until
>> 25,000 miles.  As the engine and filter tech improved they have now shifted
>> slightly to an entirely 25k run on the same oil and filter depending on the
>> application.  In addition to their extended oil change interval they also
>> promote oil sample analysis.  You can detect all manner of internal wear
>> and deterioration of the oil and the engine.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:11 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>>> is this a synthetic oil Josh?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy C 33MKII
>>> Lake of the Woods
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
 duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
 in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
 analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
 soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
 is 

Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- Where do you get the oil analysis done?   Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 22, 2018, at 8:00 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I use no additional additives in the oil.  When we got the boat 6.5 years 
> ago, the PO had somehow added gasoline to the diesel fuel.  The engine would 
> start easy and run stong-ish until it warmed up.  Then act as though air had 
> gotten in the fuel and die.  No amount of bleeding would restore its 
> operation.  During the first year it was difficult to get a feel for "running 
> good".  The first winter we hauled out to have the rudder rebuilt.  Second 
> year was fine but small air leaks and an ineffective means of venting the 
> fuel system continued to occasionally plague operation of the boat.  Second 
> winter we kept it in the water.  In the spring, we started the engine to 
> bring it over for a short haul.  The dipstick blew out and sprayed oil while 
> the engine continuing to run, albeit rough.  We made it to the travel lift 
> just in time for the engine to die.  1 week later after being relaunched the 
> engine would turn freely but not start.  I found that cylinder 1&2 had low 
> compression and have since assumed that they had stuck rings.  The prevailing 
> theory is that the water lift muffler push/pulled moist air in/out of the 
> engine as the boat rocked all winter long.  Eventually, the application of 
> penetrating oil in the cylinders was able to finally work the rings free.  
> The engine ran well but still showed signs of high crankcase pressure caused 
> by excessive blow-by.  The dipstick could blow loose and the breather would 
> accumulate a lot of oil.  I installed a breather catch can and accumulated 
> almost 1/4 of the volume in the first year.
> 
> We run about 50 to 75 hours each year and since the stuck rings 4 years ago 
> the accumulation of oil has subsided.  The can is still 1/4 full.  I've 
> rechecked the compression and now all cylinders read high and equal.  IMO 
> poor maintenance by the PO contributed/caused most of the problems I 
> experienced.  My use of quality oil and sample analysis has contributed to 
> the reversal of the poor operation.
> 
> The only additional additive that I use if Opti-Lube XPD but it is a fuel 
> additive not oil.  I swear by it.
> 
> Here are some videos of mine which you might find useful.
> 
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ 
> 
> https://youtu.be/F7KD1_EZmU4 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:38 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List  > wrote:
> thanks Josh
> I notice Sea Hawk is a 1989 boat.   My boat is a 1986 with Yanmar 2GM20F so 
> we are close in years.  No issues with synthetic in older engines?
> Also, do you put in any oil additives routinely?
> 
> thanks,Wade
> 
> Oh Boy
> C 33 MK II
> Lake of the Woods
> 
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:30 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Yes, fully synthetic.  
> 
> Evidently in the early 70's Amsoil started developing and marketing synthetic 
> oil.  Mobile came out and tried to compete but made an inferior product.  
> Unfortunately the public already knew and used Mobile products so when the 
> Mobile synthetic didn't deliver on their promises, it made a bad name for 
> synthetics as a whole.  As the story goes, Amsoil came to mobile and proposed 
> to show them how to make a synthetic so that the technology would be embraced.
> 
> Amsoil has been pioneering ultra efficient oils and extended interval oil 
> changes for almost 50 years.  Under the older engine technology they would 
> simply have you change the filter and top up the sump, no change until 25,000 
> miles.  As the engine and filter tech improved they have now shifted slightly 
> to an entirely 25k run on the same oil and filter depending on the 
> application.  In addition to their extended oil change interval they also 
> promote oil sample analysis.  You can detect all manner of internal wear and 
> deterioration of the oil and the engine.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:11 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List   wrote:
> is this a synthetic oil Josh?
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33MKII
> Lake of the Woods
> 
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy 
> duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate in 
> the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for analysis.  
> Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of soot/exhaust 
> in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil is exhausted.
> 
> It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand the 
> changes and what they 

Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Ditto for my Westerbeke 40.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine oil

Shell Rotella, straight 30 weight. 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


  On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar. 
  What you use?

  Fred Hazzard 
  S/V Fury 
  C 44
  Portland Or 
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I use no additional additives in the oil.  When we got the boat 6.5 years
ago, the PO had somehow added gasoline to the diesel fuel.  The engine
would start easy and run stong-ish until it warmed up.  Then act as though
air had gotten in the fuel and die.  No amount of bleeding would restore
its operation.  During the first year it was difficult to get a feel for
"running good".  The first winter we hauled out to have the rudder
rebuilt.  Second year was fine but small air leaks and an ineffective means
of venting the fuel system continued to occasionally plague operation of
the boat.  Second winter we kept it in the water.  In the spring, we
started the engine to bring it over for a short haul.  The dipstick blew
out and sprayed oil while the engine continuing to run, albeit rough.  We
made it to the travel lift just in time for the engine to die.  1 week
later after being relaunched the engine would turn freely but not start.  I
found that cylinder 1&2 had low compression and have since assumed that
they had stuck rings.  The prevailing theory is that the water lift muffler
push/pulled moist air in/out of the engine as the boat rocked all winter
long.  Eventually, the application of penetrating oil in the cylinders was
able to finally work the rings free.  The engine ran well but still showed
signs of high crankcase pressure caused by excessive blow-by.  The dipstick
could blow loose and the breather would accumulate a lot of oil.  I
installed a breather catch can and accumulated almost 1/4 of the volume in
the first year.

We run about 50 to 75 hours each year and since the stuck rings 4 years ago
the accumulation of oil has subsided.  The can is still 1/4 full.  I've
rechecked the compression and now all cylinders read high and equal.  IMO
poor maintenance by the PO contributed/caused most of the problems I
experienced.  My use of quality oil and sample analysis has contributed to
the reversal of the poor operation.

The only additional additive that I use if Opti-Lube XPD but it is a fuel
additive not oil.  I swear by it.

Here are some videos of mine which you might find useful.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

https://youtu.be/F7KD1_EZmU4

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:38 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> thanks Josh
> I notice Sea Hawk is a 1989 boat.   My boat is a 1986 with Yanmar 2GM20F
> so we are close in years.  No issues with synthetic in older engines?
> Also, do you put in any oil additives routinely?
>
> thanks,Wade
>
> Oh Boy
> C 33 MK II
> Lake of the Woods
>
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:30 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, fully synthetic.
>>
>> Evidently in the early 70's Amsoil started developing and marketing
>> synthetic oil.  Mobile came out and tried to compete but made an inferior
>> product.  Unfortunately the public already knew and used Mobile products so
>> when the Mobile synthetic didn't deliver on their promises, it made a bad
>> name for synthetics as a whole.  As the story goes, Amsoil came to mobile
>> and proposed to show them how to make a synthetic so that the technology
>> would be embraced.
>>
>> Amsoil has been pioneering ultra efficient oils and extended interval oil
>> changes for almost 50 years.  Under the older engine technology they would
>> simply have you change the filter and top up the sump, no change until
>> 25,000 miles.  As the engine and filter tech improved they have now shifted
>> slightly to an entirely 25k run on the same oil and filter depending on the
>> application.  In addition to their extended oil change interval they also
>> promote oil sample analysis.  You can detect all manner of internal wear
>> and deterioration of the oil and the engine.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:11 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>>> is this a synthetic oil Josh?
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy C 33MKII
>>> Lake of the Woods
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
 duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
 in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
 analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
 soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
 is exhausted.

 It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand
 the changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood
 test for your engine.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C 37+
 Solomons, MD

 On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
> What you use?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> 

Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thanks Josh
I notice Sea Hawk is a 1989 boat.   My boat is a 1986 with Yanmar 2GM20F so
we are close in years.  No issues with synthetic in older engines?
Also, do you put in any oil additives routinely?

thanks,Wade

Oh Boy
C 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods

On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 5:30 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, fully synthetic.
>
> Evidently in the early 70's Amsoil started developing and marketing
> synthetic oil.  Mobile came out and tried to compete but made an inferior
> product.  Unfortunately the public already knew and used Mobile products so
> when the Mobile synthetic didn't deliver on their promises, it made a bad
> name for synthetics as a whole.  As the story goes, Amsoil came to mobile
> and proposed to show them how to make a synthetic so that the technology
> would be embraced.
>
> Amsoil has been pioneering ultra efficient oils and extended interval oil
> changes for almost 50 years.  Under the older engine technology they would
> simply have you change the filter and top up the sump, no change until
> 25,000 miles.  As the engine and filter tech improved they have now shifted
> slightly to an entirely 25k run on the same oil and filter depending on the
> application.  In addition to their extended oil change interval they also
> promote oil sample analysis.  You can detect all manner of internal wear
> and deterioration of the oil and the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:11 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> is this a synthetic oil Josh?
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33MKII
>> Lake of the Woods
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
>>> duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
>>> in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
>>> analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
>>> soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
>>> is exhausted.
>>>
>>> It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand
>>> the changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood
>>> test for your engine.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>>
 I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
 What you use?

 Fred Hazzard
 S/V Fury
 C 44
 Portland Or
 ___

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 ___
>>>
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>>>
>>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yes, fully synthetic.

Evidently in the early 70's Amsoil started developing and marketing
synthetic oil.  Mobile came out and tried to compete but made an inferior
product.  Unfortunately the public already knew and used Mobile products so
when the Mobile synthetic didn't deliver on their promises, it made a bad
name for synthetics as a whole.  As the story goes, Amsoil came to mobile
and proposed to show them how to make a synthetic so that the technology
would be embraced.

Amsoil has been pioneering ultra efficient oils and extended interval oil
changes for almost 50 years.  Under the older engine technology they would
simply have you change the filter and top up the sump, no change until
25,000 miles.  As the engine and filter tech improved they have now shifted
slightly to an entirely 25k run on the same oil and filter depending on the
application.  In addition to their extended oil change interval they also
promote oil sample analysis.  You can detect all manner of internal wear
and deterioration of the oil and the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Nov 22, 2018, 6:11 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List  is this a synthetic oil Josh?
>
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33MKII
> Lake of the Woods
>
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
>> duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
>> in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
>> analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
>> soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
>> is exhausted.
>>
>> It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand the
>> changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood test
>> for your engine.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
>>> What you use?
>>>
>>> Fred Hazzard
>>> S/V Fury
>>> C 44
>>> Portland Or
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

is this a synthetic oil Josh?

Wade
Oh Boy C 33MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 4:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
> duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
> in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
> analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
> soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
> is exhausted.
>
> It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand the
> changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood test
> for your engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
>> What you use?
>>
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

There is many flavor of Rotella. I use Rotella T6 10W40 in my Universal M4-30, 
and 0W40 in all my VW TDI (pre 2006).

Pierre Tremblay

Avalanche #54988

C WK, hull #76
 

   


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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I use Delo 400 15-40. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I use Amsoil products for all my engines.  The boat gets 15w40 heavy
duty/marine diesel oil.  It had a high TBN of 12.  As the acids accumulate
in the oil the TBN will diminish towards 0.  I send oil samples for
analysis.  Typically in high compression engines which accumulate a lot of
soot/exhaust in the oil, the TBN is the limiting factor as to when the oil
is exhausted.

It's cool to trend oil properties over time and be able to understand the
changes and what they mean about engine health.  Kinda like a blood test
for your engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018, 3:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
> What you use?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I mis-spoke. I actually use Rotella 15W40. I used to use Delo but it's hard
to find up here.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Wed, 21 Nov 2018 at 12:47, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use Delo 15-40.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 12:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
>> What you use?
>>
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=WRpxngj_KBwUiCyQL27T8ENUBdi_jZ8qbD7U87eqm1w=oJTJgG7MdjQFSGtKWCo0uea_LBMCGhQz287KGHdZc5s=
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use Delo 15-40.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 12:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
> What you use?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=WRpxngj_KBwUiCyQL27T8ENUBdi_jZ8qbD7U87eqm1w=oJTJgG7MdjQFSGtKWCo0uea_LBMCGhQz287KGHdZc5s=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I use Shell Rotella T 15W40, though I have a Perkins M20.

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2018 15:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Stus-List Engine oil

I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
What you use?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Shell Rotella, straight 30 weight.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar. 
> What you use?
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland Or 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Rotella 15W30.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Wed, 21 Nov 2018 at 12:31, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
> What you use?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

FYI, I posted earlier, even though I worked for the parent company that
made Fram filters, I wouldn't buy them.  However, just for clarity, like
many filter manufacturers, Fram makes a couple lines of filters.  The
standard line, which is found in many big box stores, isn't highly rated.

Fram's premium lines, have more respect.  Their Extra Guard line is well
regarded by some.

This is true of most filter lines.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Here is an OEM parts supplier.  You can get the part number and then use
any of the cross-reference links to double check me.
http://marinedieselparts.com/store/yanmar.htm

Josh

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 1:27 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List  Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>> LH39
>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

They can if you have the number of your current filter. I don't remember what 
was installed on my 3qm30. Before I installed the remote filter. Access on the 
LF38 was horrible. 


Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Wade Glew via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/3/18  10:26  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Wade Glew  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
engine oil filters and Car talk 
Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?WadeOh 
Boy C 33 MKII 
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’ve used the NAPA Gold filters on my 3QM for years; they seem to work well.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 3, 2018, at 4:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> NAPA will usually tell you who made their filters.  They also often have a 
> dissected or cross sectional view available at the counter.  My assessment is 
> that they are a high quality filter though I have no imperical data. 
> 
> Josh 
> 
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 5:03 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Anyone have experience with the NAPA Gold filters?  I've heard from car 
> people that they're very good.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

NAPA will usually tell you who made their filters.  They also often have a
dissected or cross sectional view available at the counter.  My assessment
is that they are a high quality filter though I have no imperical data.

Josh

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 5:03 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone have experience with the NAPA Gold filters?  I've heard from car
> people that they're very good.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
> On Saturday, November 3, 2018, 12:20:24 PM CDT, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>
>
> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 Anyone have experience with the NAPA Gold filters?  I've heard from car people 
that they're very good.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

On Saturday, November 3, 2018, 12:20:24 PM CDT, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store. 


 Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC 
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah Russ,

I forgot about Mann and Baldwin.  IIRC Mann has a real nice cross-reference
website too.  One thing that I have never been able to completely replicate
in an aftermarket filter is the bypass valve pressure of an OEM Yanmar
filter.  ~20 psi!  ~10 psi seems to be the norm.

Josh



On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 2:36 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Thanks Josh. Nice set o' links (filed for future reference).
>
> Whenever I buy oil filters I ask the parts counter guy, "What have you got
> that isn't Fram"
>
> I like Mann and Baldwin as good replacements. Amsoil isn't common in
> Western Canada.
>
> Interestingly, you do not get cleaner oil by changing a filter frequently.
> The old one works really well right up until it the media gets saturated. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 10:25 AM 11/3/2018, you wrote:
>
> I've cut apart quite a few different filters from various manufacturers.Â
> Most of the high end filters are just slightly different from one
> another.  Consistently favorable qualities are:
> High density synthetic filter media
> Silicone gaskets and anti-drain back
> Metal media cap
> Coil spring for bypass device
> Thicker can and base plate.
>
> Some of these features are hard to identify without an autopsy.  But you
> know it when you see it.
>
> Cheap filters tend to have
> Low density paper media and glued on paper end caps
> Leaf spring bypass
> Rubber components
> Thin can materials
>
> I have had good luck with Amsoil, and Purolator Pur1 filters.  There are
> lots of other good ones and lots of bad, but Fram does stand out as being
> on the bad side.  You have 6 opportunities to do a dissection Paul, let us
> know what you find.
>
> Manufacturers that provide their own specifications make shopping
> easier.  I like to find thread and gasket dimensions and then search for
> the largest possible filter that will still fit the allowed space.  I also
> compare filter media dimensions.
>
> Wix, Donaldson, Amsoil all have online references which help you to cross
> reference and find the best solution.
>
> Filter comparison article:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Yanmar filter for QH, HM, GM, YM series engines including Yanmar
> cross-references and dimensions.Â
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WY-pDhUDtrCXF_4p2grjp_wBiNDq3y6YDQvZ-UGLZHlReYRL1b6BFY-q_-OC2Wyl0GSm_adnVOQl-x7J/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> The Fleetguard  FL3812 cross references to a Amsoil EA15K20.
> https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/MasterFilterCrossRef.aspx
>
>
> https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?Code=EA15K20
>
> Â Looking at the spec chart you could probably gain a little volume/filter
> media square inches by moving to a EA15K13
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yk6IzUYWWzaPy2DDNRx5Ak5wyM0PB5TL/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 11:59 AM Morgan Ellis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
> I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I was have issues with race
> engine and was changing filters often and cutting them open to try to
> identify where the wear was coming from. In doing this we cut open several
> different makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! Since then I only
> buy Donaldson filters, as they were head and shoulders above all others in
> terms of construction and quality inside.
>
> Morgan Ellis
> SV MeandherÂ
> 30MkII
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thanks for this Sam  Wade


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On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 12:55 PM Sam Salter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yanmar 2GM20F:
>
> Lub oil: Wix 51334 (NAPA 51334) / Fram PH3593A / Purolator L14459
> Primary fuel strainer: Wix 33166 / Baldwin BF825
>
> sam
> C$C 26  Liquorice
> Ghost Lake  Alberta
>
> On Nov 3, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>> LH39
>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

thank you for this Josh
Wade


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On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 12:51 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Probably.  Or you can just look it up ahead of time.
>
> http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=8
> Off road, Yanmar, marine engine, model
>
> Takes you here #51358:
> http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=36412
>
> Or this one which is slightly bigger volume but same gasket and thread
> size. #51344
> http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=33685
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 1:27 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>>> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Mountjoy
>>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>>> LH39
>>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh. Nice set o' links (filed for future reference).

Whenever I buy oil filters I ask the parts 
counter guy, "What have you got that isn't Fram"


I like Mann and Baldwin as good replacements. 
Amsoil isn't common in Western Canada.


Interestingly, you do not get cleaner oil by 
changing a filter frequently. The old one works 
really well right up until it the media gets saturated. :)


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:25 AM 11/3/2018, you wrote:
I've cut apart quite a few different filters 
from various manufacturers.  Most of the high 
end filters are just slightly different from one 
another.  Consistently favorable qualities are:

High density synthetic filter media
Silicone gaskets and anti-drain back
Metal media cap
Coil spring for bypass device
Thicker can and base plate.

Some of these features are hard to identify 
without an autopsy.  But you know it when you see it.


Cheap filters tend to have
Low density paper media and glued on paper end caps
Leaf spring bypass
Rubber components
Thin can materials

I have had good luck with Amsoil, and Purolator 
Pur1 filters.  There are lots of other good 
ones and lots of bad, but Fram does stand out as 
being on the bad side.  You have 6 
opportunities to do a dissection Paul, let us know what you find.


Manufacturers that provide their own 
specifications make shopping easier.  I like to 
find thread and gasket dimensions and then 
search for the largest possible filter that will 
still fit the allowed space.  I also compare filter media dimensions.


Wix, Donaldson, Amsoil all have online 
references which help you to cross reference and find the best solution.


Filter comparison article:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/view?usp=drivesdk

Yanmar filter for QH, HM, GM, YM series engines 
including Yanmar cross-references and dimensions.Â

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WY-pDhUDtrCXF_4p2grjp_wBiNDq3y6YDQvZ-UGLZHlReYRL1b6BFY-q_-OC2Wyl0GSm_adnVOQl-x7J/view?usp=drivesdk

The Fleetguard  FL3812 cross references to a Amsoil EA15K20.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/MasterFilterCrossRef.aspx

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?Code=EA15K20

 Looking at the spec chart you could probably 
gain a little volume/filter media square inches by moving to a EA15K13

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yk6IzUYWWzaPy2DDNRx5Ak5wyM0PB5TL/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 11:59 AM Morgan Ellis via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I 
was have issues with race engine and was 
changing filters often and cutting them open to 
try to identify where the wear was coming from. 
In doing this we cut open several different 
makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! 
Since then I only buy Donaldson filters, as they 
were head and shoulders above all others in 
terms of construction and quality inside.


Morgan Ellis
SV MeandherÂ
30MkII
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your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Yanmar 2GM20F:

Lub oil: Wix 51334 (NAPA 51334) / Fram PH3593A / Purolator L14459
Primary fuel strainer: Wix 33166 / Baldwin BF825

sam
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 

On Nov 3, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
wrote:

Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII 

> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:
> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Probably.  Or you can just look it up ahead of time.

http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=8
Off road, Yanmar, marine engine, model

Takes you here #51358:
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=36412

Or this one which is slightly bigger volume but same gasket and thread
size. #51344
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=33685

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 1:27 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MKII
>
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>> LH39
>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've cut apart quite a few different filters from various manufacturers.
Most of the high end filters are just slightly different from one another.
Consistently favorable qualities are:
High density synthetic filter media
Silicone gaskets and anti-drain back
Metal media cap
Coil spring for bypass device
Thicker can and base plate.

Some of these features are hard to identify without an autopsy.  But you
know it when you see it.

Cheap filters tend to have
Low density paper media and glued on paper end caps
Leaf spring bypass
Rubber components
Thin can materials

I have had good luck with Amsoil, and Purolator Pur1 filters.  There are
lots of other good ones and lots of bad, but Fram does stand out as being
on the bad side.  You have 6 opportunities to do a dissection Paul, let us
know what you find.

Manufacturers that provide their own specifications make shopping easier.
I like to find thread and gasket dimensions and then search for the largest
possible filter that will still fit the allowed space.  I also compare
filter media dimensions.

Wix, Donaldson, Amsoil all have online references which help you to cross
reference and find the best solution.

Filter comparison article:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/view?usp=drivesdk

Yanmar filter for QH, HM, GM, YM series engines including Yanmar
cross-references and dimensions.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WY-pDhUDtrCXF_4p2grjp_wBiNDq3y6YDQvZ-UGLZHlReYRL1b6BFY-q_-OC2Wyl0GSm_adnVOQl-x7J/view?usp=drivesdk

The Fleetguard  FL3812 cross references to a Amsoil EA15K20.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/MasterFilterCrossRef.aspx

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?Code=EA15K20

 Looking at the spec chart you could probably gain a little volume/filter
media square inches by moving to a EA15K13
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yk6IzUYWWzaPy2DDNRx5Ak5wyM0PB5TL/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 11:59 AM Morgan Ellis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I was have issues with race
> engine and was changing filters often and cutting them open to try to
> identify where the wear was coming from. In doing this we cut open several
> different makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! Since then I only
> buy Donaldson filters, as they were head and shoulders above all others in
> terms of construction and quality inside.
>
> Morgan Ellis
> SV Meandher
> 30MkII
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store. 


Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Nothing but Wix for my diesel.

Bill Dakin

> On Nov 3, 2018, at 10:27 AM, Paul E via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Some time ago I went from faithfully using Yanmar engine oil filters to the 
> equivalent Fram filters.  The main 

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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I retired from the company that owned Fram. I wouldn’t buy them. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 3, 2018, at 11:59 AM, Morgan Ellis via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I was have issues with race 
> engine and was changing filters often and cutting them open to try to 
> identify where the wear was coming from. In doing this we cut open several 
> different makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! Since then I only 
> buy Donaldson filters, as they were head and shoulders above all others in 
> terms of construction and quality inside.
> 
> Morgan Ellis
> SV Meandher 
> 30MkII
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Morgan Ellis via CnC-List]

I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I was have issues with race
engine and was changing filters often and cutting them open to try to
identify where the wear was coming from. In doing this we cut open several
different makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst! Since then I only
buy Donaldson filters, as they were head and shoulders above all others in
terms of construction and quality inside.

Morgan Ellis
SV Meandher
30MkII
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Fram filters are notoriously low quality. I avoid them like the plague. Even 
with my minimal budget I still go for the highest quality filters for my engine.
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 3, 2018, at 11:27, Paul E via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Some time ago I went from faithfully using Yanmar engine oil filters to the 
> equivalent Fram filters.  The main reason was convince, these were available 
> in stock at a local(Tallahassee) auto parts store and at the local Tractor 
> Supply store.  Well, now these filters are now no longer locally in stock.  
> They are still available, but need to be special ordered. 
> 
>  I started looking at common online sources, and found some reasonably 
> prices, but it only made sense to order in quantities to defray shipping 
> costs.  And while filters were available on Amazon Prime (i.e. free 2nd day 
> shipping), the prime price was always inflated.   I was listening to a NPR 
> rerun of Car Talk (or “Ka Tark” as I learned growing up south of Boston ) 
> when I was searching for filters.  I’m not  sure which, either Click or Clack 
> mentioned their “buddies at RockAuto.com” as a source for auto parts.   So I 
> checked them out. They sell filters by the case of 6, and at a great price.  
> A case of six Premium Guard(Fram equivs) for the Yanmar 3QM30 was $8.10.  
> That is $1.35 each(i.e., the price your mechanic buys filters).   A case 
> delivered was $15.09 ($8.10+$6.99)[shipping for 2 case was $1 more].  So I 
> ordered a case. 
> 
> I have one of these filters on the engine now, and I plan to replace 
> mid-cycle and dissect, not because I’m concerned but curious, and the fact 
> that I have a bunch of filters(you can only keep so many aboard). 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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