Stus-List Water Heater?'s

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

My 4 yr old water heater started leaking as I was filling it for the first
time this year.  It is a 6 gal. Seaward [Whale] unit and only connected to
the engine coolant circuit [no A/C on board, just 12 V]  

 

Planning to replace it with the same unit as that "should" be the easiest /
quickest. Two questions for the group: 

 

1] The heater comes in galvanized steel and white epoxy versions.  The
latter is more $ but is it worth it from a corrosion or other standpoint?
It is not visible so aesthetics are not important. 

 

2]  Found both units on Amazon for less than Defender and other
distributors.  Has anyone bought parts / equipment from Amazon Marine?
Usually Amazon delivers when they indicate, but I ordered some ink for a
home printer and it still has not been delivered after 8 weeks.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

Ps - Very sad news about Rob.  Amazing how a "simple" fall can cause a
cascade of events.  Not much comfort, but at least it was tangentially
boating related.  

 

 

Stus-List Water heater

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Robert, I replaced mine with a whale(seaward) S1100, 11 gal, galvanized
steel. It comes in either front or rear heat exchanger configurations, and
has the electric hookup as well. I added rigid insulation to the outside of
the case; water stays hot or at least warm for a long time. Available at
the Binnacle, which, I think, is close to where you are Robert.

Mike Amirault
C&C33 ii Lovely Cruise, SMSC.
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Re: Stus-List Water heater

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On Alianna the domestic hot water heater coil and the engines heat
exchanger are connected in parallel off the engines hot coolant line. The
domestic water heater coil is about 1/4 inch I.D. While the heat exchanger
line is about 1/2 inch I.D.  If this is the case most of the hot coolant
from the engine may choose the path of least resistance, that is, thru the
larger diameter hose and into the heat exchanger. Even if there are no air
pockets in the water heater line you could install a valve in the engine
heat exchanger line which you can partially close to force more hot coolant
to flow through the domestic water heater coil.

On Thu, May 16, 2019 at 11:41 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It is quite possible (and it has happened to mine after changing the water
> heater) to have a pocket of air on the glycol side that prevents
> circulation of the glycol.  To solve this, remove one end of the hose and
> fill it with the glycol/water solution and then re-attach the hose.  At
> this point it shoul re-establish flow.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> > On May 16, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Bruce, the engine loop inside the water heater is usually copper with no
> check valves so it should not matter how it’s connected, it’s just a loop.
> You can tell which hose is the supply with the engine running, it’s going
> to be the warmest one. The little bit of air inside the loop will be
> removed by the engine in its normal cycle and coolant will be drawn back in
> from your coolant reservoir. The air inside the tank will come out the hot
> side of a faucet. I avoid bleeding air using the pressure temperature
> relief valve because they are notorious for dripping after you do, probably
> less of a risk at boat pressure compared to household pressure. If it does
> it’s usually made by Watts and they aren’t too expensive or hard to replace
> with a small pipe wrench. You haven’t said why you suspect air but if it’s
> been disconnected a while the engine inlet or outlet can become plugged and
> not circulate. Best way to tell is if you have warm water circulating
> through both hoses with the engine running.
> > Len Mitchell
> > Crazy Legs
> > 1989 37+
> > Midland On.
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> >
>
>
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> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Water heater

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

It is quite possible (and it has happened to mine after changing the water 
heater) to have a pocket of air on the glycol side that prevents circulation of 
the glycol.  To solve this, remove one end of the hose and fill it with the 
glycol/water solution and then re-attach the hose.  At this point it shoul 
re-establish flow.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 16, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bruce, the engine loop inside the water heater is usually copper with no 
> check valves so it should not matter how it’s connected, it’s just a loop. 
> You can tell which hose is the supply with the engine running, it’s going to 
> be the warmest one. The little bit of air inside the loop will be removed by 
> the engine in its normal cycle and coolant will be drawn back in from your 
> coolant reservoir. The air inside the tank will come out the hot side of a 
> faucet. I avoid bleeding air using the pressure temperature relief valve 
> because they are notorious for dripping after you do, probably less of a risk 
> at boat pressure compared to household pressure. If it does it’s usually made 
> by Watts and they aren’t too expensive or hard to replace with a small pipe 
> wrench. You haven’t said why you suspect air but if it’s been disconnected a 
> while the engine inlet or outlet can become plugged and not circulate. Best 
> way to tell is if you have warm water circulating through both hoses with the 
> engine running. 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+ 
> Midland On. 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Stus-List Water heater

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Bruce, the engine loop inside the water heater is usually copper with no check 
valves so it should not matter how it’s connected, it’s just a loop. You can 
tell which hose is the supply with the engine running, it’s going to be the 
warmest one. The little bit of air inside the loop will be removed by the 
engine in its normal cycle and coolant will be drawn back in from your coolant 
reservoir. The air inside the tank will come out the hot side of a faucet. I 
avoid bleeding air using the pressure temperature relief valve because they are 
notorious for dripping after you do, probably less of a risk at boat pressure 
compared to household pressure. If it does it’s usually made by Watts and they 
aren’t too expensive or hard to replace with a small pipe wrench. You haven’t 
said why you suspect air but if it’s been disconnected a while the engine inlet 
or outlet can become plugged and not circulate. Best way to tell is if you have 
warm water circulating through both hoses with the engine running. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+ 
Midland On. 

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

With both taps turned off, if the pump pressure switch doesn't see back
pressure, it will run until it sees pressure, and the pump turns off. When
the cold water is turned on, the pump pressure switch sees no back
pressure, and pumps the cold water. When the cold water tap is closed, the
pressure switch sees back pressure and turns the pump off. When the hot
water tap is turned on, there is still some back pressure (coming from the
hot water tank), so the pump doesn't turn on immediately. After the hot
water runs for a while, there is no back pressure, and the pump turns on.
This is normal operation. If the pump is straining before it shuts off,
it's because pressure is building up in the hot water tank.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Oct 23, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No accumulator tank, the T/P valve is the only thing I changed, no other
> lines disconnected.
> Thanks for all the thoughts, I'll try bleeding off the T/P valve and see
> if it helps.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

No accumulator tank, the T/P valve is the only thing I changed, no other
lines disconnected.
Thanks for all the thoughts, I'll try bleeding off the T/P valve and see if
it helps.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The first quart or so of water I get after a long motor will burn your hand and 
I *don’t even HAVE a hot water heater*.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2018 3:16 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is 
providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds.

Mine does that after motoring for a while because the line runs through the 
engine compartment.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 1:21 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out.
A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on 
our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts very 
oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is 
obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the 
hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, 
whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open the 
taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for the 
first 10-15 seconds.
Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it didn't 
seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank somehow 
and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach pressure and 
then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
Any bright ideas on how I might fix this?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is
providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds.

Mine does that after motoring for a while because the line runs through the
engine compartment.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 1:21 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out.
> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve
> on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump
> acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds
> it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I
> open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump
> kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition,
> when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very
> hot water for the first 10-15 seconds.
> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it
> didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the
> tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to
> reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this?
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Sounds like lots of air in the Hot Water Tank to me, which drives hot water
backwards out of the tank into the cold water lines when you turn the cold
tap on.

I'd think you should be able to blead the air out through the new blo-off
valve as it should be the highest thing on the tank.

Did you have the water lines disconnected from the tank and possibly
reconnected them backwards? The dip tube for the cold water inlet could
cause an air bubble in the tank if the lines are connected backward.

Ken H.

On Monday, 22 October 2018, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
wrote:
>
> Mine behaves similarly.  You should be able to bleed the tank from that
new valve. I will give it a shot as well.
>
> I would guess you have a supply line laying on the hot water hose from
the heat exchanger.
>
> Rick Rohwer
> Paikea 37+
> Tacoma, WA
>> On Oct 22, 2018, at 11:21 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out.
>> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature
valve on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water
pump acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure
builds it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops.
When I open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the
pump kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In
addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is
providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds.
>> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it
didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the
tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to
reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
>> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this?
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Jim:

Running the hot water for 10 or 15 minutes should get rid of any air bubble in 
the water system but I don't think this is the problem.

There should be a check valve in the high-pressure water line to separate the 
cold water supply from the hot water from the tank--check the functioning of 
this check valve.  (Refer to Raritan water heater installation instructions for 
more info on this check valve.)

Another thing you might want to check is the accumulator tank.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Oct 22, 2018, at 2:21 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. 
> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on 
> our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts 
> very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is 
> obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the 
> hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, 
> whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open 
> the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for 
> the first 10-15 seconds.
> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it 
> didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank 
> somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach 
> pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Mine behaves similarly.  You should be able to bleed the tank from that new 
valve. I will give it a shot as well.

I would guess you have a supply line laying on the hot water hose from the heat 
exchanger.  

Rick Rohwer
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA
> On Oct 22, 2018, at 11:21 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. 
> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on 
> our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts 
> very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is 
> obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the 
> hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, 
> whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open 
> the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for 
> the first 10-15 seconds.
> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it 
> didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank 
> somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach 
> pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out.
A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve
on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump
acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds
it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I
open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump
kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition,
when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very
hot water for the first 10-15 seconds.
Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it
didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the
tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to
reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open.
Any bright ideas on how I might fix this?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It took me a while, but I eventually ordered an Isotherm SPA unit. It is more 
expensive, but it comes with the temperature regulation valve and it is 
stainless throughout.

Thanks, Dennis,  for the suggestion.

Thanks

Marek



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Date: 2018-03-02 14:20 (GMT-05:00)
To: CnClist 
Cc: "Dennis C." 
Subject: Re: Stus-List water heater

If I was going to install one on Touche' it would be an Isotemp SPA unit.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common wisdom 
on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like Kuuma, 
Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or very 
similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine coolant 
(and potentially AC, but this is secondary).

Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated

thanks

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

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Re: Stus-List water heater

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I replaced my old Raritan which was completely rusted out with a Seaward 600
with galvanized exterior; uses heat exchanger or electric.

Three years now and it works great. I added some insulation to the exterior
case to reduce heat loss. Water stays hot for a long time after it is up to
temp.

 

Mike Amirault

C&C33 II Lovely Cruise

SMSC

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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The first sign that the anode has lost its magnesium (and the iron core is 
exposed) is the bad smell (sulphuric) from the tap. If you notice that, you are 
a bit too late for replacing it.

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 3, 2018 05:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List water heater

In my link there is a picture of the anode for the 6 gallon Raritan.  This one 
is integrated into the hot water nipple.  Nothing remained of the original.  
They start as 1/2" to 3/4" diameter rods and will typically be as long as can 
be accommodated by the tank.  In this case, about 12".  There is an iron core 
which gives the anode strength and electrical continuity.  It is not uncommon 
to have the core be the only thing left.  In my case even the core had rusted 
away.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cecf27e8c83b7425f854f08d580f4569b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636556709270091919&sdata=LsqFS26CRzd9yc42ITnzMhr30UwXQFpPPJjRDauLvQA%3D&reserved=0>

I've wondered if anode wastage was a likely problem since the water heater AC 
is coming from shore power.  If shore power can waste your shaft anodes why not 
the one in the water heater?

Josh


On Fri, Mar 2, 2018, 10:42 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Most often, the anode is part of the pressure relieve valve (the one that if 
you open it once, it does not close back properly).

Marek

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 19:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
Subject: Stus-List water heater

I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same hot water 
heater.coolant and electric.never knew there might be an anode to 
replace.

However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the original 
owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it.

When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the water tank 
and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.it is just too big.it 
would have to be either taken apart ( the outer casing from the actual tank) or 
cut it up.  One thing for sure, if C&C or the previous put it in, it did not go 
down the lazarette the way it is put together right now.  And if you had to 
take it apart and put it back together when you get it in, why would you do 
that in the first place.  Get get a water heater that fits down the lazarette.

It can't be 33 years old?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the 
sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.

Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up 
(though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were bone 
dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe longer.

I haven't checked the anode yet.

Just curious,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>


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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

In my link there is a picture of the anode for the 6 gallon Raritan.  This
one is integrated into the hot water nipple.  Nothing remained of the
original.  They start as 1/2" to 3/4" diameter rods and will typically be
as long as can be accommodated by the tank.  In this case, about 12".
There is an iron core which gives the anode strength and electrical
continuity.  It is not uncommon to have the core be the only thing left.
In my case even the core had rusted away.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

I've wondered if anode wastage was a likely problem since the water heater
AC is coming from shore power.  If shore power can waste your shaft anodes
why not the one in the water heater?

Josh



On Fri, Mar 2, 2018, 10:42 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Most often, the anode is part of the pressure relieve valve (the one that
> if you open it once, it does not close back properly).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *robert
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, March 2, 2018 19:54
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* robert 
> *Subject:* Stus-List water heater
>
>
>
> I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same hot
> water heater.coolant and electric.never knew there might be an
> anode to replace.
>
> However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the original
> owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it.
>
> When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the water
> tank and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.it is just too
> big.it would have to be either taken apart ( the outer casing from the
> actual tank) or cut it up.  One thing for sure, if C&C or the previous put
> it in, it did not go down the lazarette the way it is put together right
> now.  And if you had to take it apart and put it back together when you get
> it in, why would you do that in the first place.  Get get a water heater
> that fits down the lazarette.
>
> It can't be 33 years old?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32- 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the
> sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.
>
>
>
> Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up
> (though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were
> bone dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe
> longer.
>
>
>
> I haven't checked the anode yet.
>
>
>
> Just curious,
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water heater

[Lee via CnC-List]

Ted,Lee here. If this is the round style heater ,Im interested. At the moment I 
am in Fla. but will be home late Sun.Let me know what you need for it.You can 
either TEXT or Email or call  me on my cell,631-721-8624.Thanks,Lee
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Ted Drossos via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ted Drossos 
Sent: Fri, Mar 2, 2018 9:30 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater


Raritan makes an excellent water heater. I had one on my 1983 C&C 29. The 
original was still working fine after 30 years. I purchased a new one because 
the top on the old one was starting to show signs of rust. I sold that boat 
before installing the new water heater. If anyone is interested in buying a 6 
gallon Raritan water heater with a heat exchanger, I still have it. Drop me a 
note. 


Ted Drossos
C&C 110
Lady in Red
Long Island, NY  

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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Most often, the anode is part of the pressure relieve valve (the one that if 
you open it once, it does not close back properly).

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 19:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List water heater

I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same hot water 
heater.coolant and electric.never knew there might be an anode to 
replace.

However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the original 
owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it.

When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the water tank 
and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.it is just too big.it 
would have to be either taken apart ( the outer casing from the actual tank) or 
cut it up.  One thing for sure, if C&C or the previous put it in, it did not go 
down the lazarette the way it is put together right now.  And if you had to 
take it apart and put it back together when you get it in, why would you do 
that in the first place.  Get get a water heater that fits down the lazarette.

It can't be 33 years old?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the 
sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.

Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up 
(though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were bone 
dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe longer.

I haven't checked the anode yet.

Just curious,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>


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Re: Stus-List Water heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

For some reason Raritan is super expensive.  I have one that came with the
boat and rebuilt it.  It works great and I have no intention of replacing
it.  We can stretch 6 gallons of hot water for 3 people.  The engine heats
the water quite hot and we can expect hot water 12 hours later after
motoring into port or to the anchorage.  I'm not sure that this level of
performance is unique to this water heater and as such, If I had replace, I
would not replace it with another Raritan simply because of the cost.

I've shared these pictures before but here you go again.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Fri, Mar 2, 2018, 9:30 PM Ted Drossos via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Raritan makes an excellent water heater. I had one on my 1983 C&C 29. The
> original was still working fine after 30 years. I purchased a new one
> because the top on the old one was starting to show signs of rust. I sold
> that boat before installing the new water heater. If anyone is interested
> in buying a 6 gallon Raritan water heater with a heat exchanger, I still
> have it. Drop me a note.
>
> Ted Drossos
> C&C 110
> Lady in Red
> Long Island, NY
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The latest BoatUS magazine had an article about changing your water heater
anode.  Here's the link:

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2018/february/replacing-your-boats-water-heater-anode.asp

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 4:53 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same hot
> water heater.coolant and electric.never knew there might be an
> anode to replace.
>
> However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the original
> owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it.
>
> When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the water
> tank and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.it is just too
> big.it would have to be either taken apart ( the outer casing from the
> actual tank) or cut it up.  One thing for sure, if C&C or the previous put
> it in, it did not go down the lazarette the way it is put together right
> now.  And if you had to take it apart and put it back together when you get
> it in, why would you do that in the first place.  Get get a water heater
> that fits down the lazarette.
>
> It can't be 33 years old?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32- 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the
> sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.
>
> Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up
> (though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were
> bone dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe
> longer.
>
> I haven't checked the anode yet.
>
> Just curious,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=pNbdgd-
> 4by7H0hlF29IJyGsXvk3KeYm4_T9BddJkhOI&s=HjSYcT_
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water heater

[Ted Drossos via CnC-List]

Raritan makes an excellent water heater. I had one on my 1983 C&C 29. The 
original was still working fine after 30 years. I purchased a new one because 
the top on the old one was starting to show signs of rust. I sold that boat 
before installing the new water heater. If anyone is interested in buying a 6 
gallon Raritan water heater with a heat exchanger, I still have it. Drop me a 
note. 


Ted Drossos
C&C 110
Lady in Red
Long Island, NY  
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Stus-List water heater

[robert via CnC-List]

I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same 
hot water heater.coolant and electric.never knew there might be 
an anode to replace.


However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the 
original owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it.


When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the 
water tank and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.it is 
just too big.it would have to be either taken apart ( the outer 
casing from the actual tank) or cut it up.  One thing for sure, if C&C 
or the previous put it in, it did not go down the lazarette the way it 
is put together right now.  And if you had to take it apart and put it 
back together when you get it in, why would you do that in the first 
place.  Get get a water heater that fits down the lazarette.


It can't be 33 years old?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing 
the sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.


Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not 
hooked up (though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the 
water tanks were bone dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 
7 years, and maybe longer.


I haven't checked the anode yet.

Just curious,
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



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Re: Stus-List water heater

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced mine a couple of years ago.  It was the same as the one I
removed, but the outside was plastic, so it wouldn't rust.  (The one I
removed was so badly rusted, that the bottom just fell out.)  What ever you
get, make sure that it will fit.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 11:04 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common
> wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks
> like Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the
> same or very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the
> engine coolant (and potentially AC, but this is secondary).
>
> Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=JJv19ySBtArLhiBt_
> VlEnxWhRwFSX8tsG_pT3poY8CY&s=sEh_rA9uSfwf1MVFJ7T_
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I installed an Isotherm in Pegasus and was very happy with it for 10 years I 
had the boat. Have an old Raritan in Rebecca Leah and not too impressed. From a 
live aboard stand point. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/2/18  11:04  (GMT-08:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: 
Stus-List water heater 



I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common wisdom 
on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like Kuuma, 
Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or very 
similar). I am looking
 for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine coolant (and potentially AC, but 
this is secondary).
 
Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated
 
thanks
 
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON


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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the 
sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.  

Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up 
(though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were bone 
dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe longer.  

I haven't checked the anode yet.  

Just curious, Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"  
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: schiller via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: schiller 
 Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 2:56 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List water heater
   
 Marek,
 
 I have a 6 gallon Force 10 electric/engine coolant water heater that has been 
in my pole barn for about 10 years.  Still in box, still works.  I bought it to 
put in our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), but never got around to it.  Make me an offer 
and pay shipping and it is yours (I have other boat projects to fund).  I 
already rebuilt the water heater that came out of Grace.
 
 Neil Schiller
 1983 C&C 35-3, #028
 "Grace"
 White Lake Michigan
 WLYC
 
 On 3/2/2018 2:04 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
  
 
  I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common 
wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like 
Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or 
very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine 
coolant (and potentially AC, but this is secondary).   Any recommendations (or 
warnings) would be appreciated   thanks   Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON   
  
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 ___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The Kumma is essentially the same as the Force 10 as I understand it.
Either the company changed hands or was renamed.

The Kumma Heaters are fine, aluminum tank and a S/S housing.

Ken H.

On Friday, 2 March 2018, Chad Osmond via CnC-List 
wrote:
> We have the Kuuma, and the thermostat stopped working, it was out of
warranty and we were the second owners but they still shipped me a free
replacement part.
> When you go to install it it is highly worth getting the bypass kit if
it's anything like ours and shoved down in a locker where it's hard to
reach, and impossible to remove the hoses. I found about 5 stainless steel
screws and a long Robertson bit with a screw still taped to it down in ours.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have the bypass already. One of the better upgrades I ever made. Makes the 
winterisation a substantially easier job.

Marek

From: Chad Osmond via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 14:58
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chad Osmond
Subject: Re: Stus-List water heater

We have the Kuuma, and the thermostat stopped working, it was out of warranty 
and we were the second owners but they still shipped me a free replacement part.

When you go to install it it is highly worth getting the bypass kit if it's 
anything like ours and shoved down in a locker where it's hard to reach, and 
impossible to remove the hoses. I found about 5 stainless steel screws and a 
long Robertson bit with a screw still taped to it down in ours.

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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

We have the Kuuma, and the thermostat stopped working, it was out of
warranty and we were the second owners but they still shipped me a free
replacement part.

When you go to install it it is highly worth getting the bypass kit if it's
anything like ours and shoved down in a locker where it's hard to reach,
and impossible to remove the hoses. I found about 5 stainless steel screws
and a long Robertson bit with a screw still taped to it down in ours.
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[schiller via CnC-List]

Marek,

I have a 6 gallon Force 10 electric/engine coolant water heater that has 
been in my pole barn for about 10 years.  Still in box, still works.  I 
bought it to put in our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), but never got around to 
it.  Make me an offer and pay shipping and it is yours (I have other 
boat projects to fund).  I already rebuilt the water heater that came 
out of Grace.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
White Lake Michigan
WLYC

On 3/2/2018 2:04 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a 
common wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. 
It looks like Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all 
seem to look the same or very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. 
heater that can use the engine coolant (and potentially AC, but this 
is secondary).

Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated
thanks
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If I was going to install one on Touche' it would be an Isotemp SPA unit.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 1:04 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common
> wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks
> like Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the
> same or very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the
> engine coolant (and potentially AC, but this is secondary).
>
> Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common wisdom 
on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like Kuuma, 
Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or very 
similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine coolant 
(and potentially AC, but this is secondary).

Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated

thanks

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Water Heater

[Ted Drossos via CnC-List]

I have a new 6 gallon Raritan water heater listed in the event you want to 
replace yours with the same model.
https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/gear/gear.php?task=showad&id=6240


Ted Drossos
C&C 110
Lady in Red
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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thanks Bruce!

I ended up ordering Sheilds heater hose from Amazon.  Like Joel Said.  
50' was cheaper than the 20' I need from West Marine.


I just worked on other stuff this weekend.

Danny


On 5/8/2017 7:52 AM, bwhitmore--- via CnC-List wrote:
I'm not sure I saw a reply to you latest question.  Stand auto parts 
store heater hose is what I did.


Bruce
1994 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Date: 5/7/2017 10:02 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

Hi All,
I was able to pressurize both the tank, 40psi for about an hour, and 
the coil, 10lbs for about 45 minutes, the only leaking I could detect 
was at the hose clamps.  So, I think I'm good to go.  I already bought 
new elements, one as a spare.  I'm going to replace the engine side 
hose with heater hose.  I looked into the clear silicone but, I'm not 
sold on it for the price.  Is there any particular brand hose I should 
be looking at or is the stuff you an get at the autoparts store what I 
should use.

I could pick that up now and have this wrapped up today.
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 12:07:59 -0400

Danny,
That is not heater hose.  I would see if it is temperature rated for 
180 degree water!  I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it 
was cheaper than 15 feet at West.   If you were nearby, I'd give you 
the rest.
Yes, I'd hook up a hose and see if there is a leak.  They likely 
bypassed it for a reason.

Joel

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 
	Virus-free. www.avg.com 
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 




On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying
our boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore
power breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just
the element.

There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at
inspection.  Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery
home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a
few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some
gauges, repair the toilet. Well, after I got the boat home I
realized they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat
exchanger tubing from the water heater to the engine and never
said anything to me about.

I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they
simply refused to return my call.

My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the
issue is?

Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3
<https://1drv.ms/i/s%21Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3>

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those
two connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and
pump water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible
happens that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all
over the place.

Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great
appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma


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If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Joel
301 541 8551


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

I'm not sure I saw a reply to you latest question.  Stand auto parts store 
heater hose is what I did.
Bruce1994 37/40+


Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
Date: 5/7/2017  10:02 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery 

Hi All,
I was able to pressurize both the tank, 40psi for about an hour, and the coil, 
10lbs for about 45 minutes, the only leaking I could detect was at the hose 
clamps.  So, I think I'm good to go.  I already bought new elements, one as a 
spare.  I'm going to replace the engine side hose with heater hose.  I looked 
into the clear silicone but, I'm not sold on it for the price.  Is there any 
particular brand hose I should be looking at or is the stuff you an get at the 
autoparts store what I should use.
 
I could pick that up now and have this wrapped up today.
 
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 12:07:59 -0400


Danny,
 
That is not heater hose.  I would see if it is temperature rated for 180 degree 
water!  I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it was cheaper than 15 
feet at West.   If you were nearby, I'd give you the rest.
 
Yes, I'd hook up a hose and see if there is a leak.  They likely bypassed it 
for a reason.
 
Joel







Virus-free. www.avg.com






On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,
 
 Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
 
 There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.
 
 I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
refused to return my call.
 
 My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?
 
 Here is a pic at survey.
 
 https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3
 
 You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
 
 Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
 
 Danny
 Mattapoisett, Ma
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




 
-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi All,I was able to pressurize both the tank, 40psi for about an hour, and the 
coil, 10lbs for about 45 minutes, the only leaking I could detect was at the 
hose clamps.  So, I think I'm good to go.  I already bought new elements, one 
as a spare.  I'm going to replace the engine side hose with heater hose.  I 
looked into the clear silicone but, I'm not sold on it for the price.  Is there 
any particular brand hose I should be looking at or is the stuff you an get at 
the autoparts store what I should use. I could pick that up now and have this 
wrapped up today. Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 12:07:59 -0400


Danny, That is not heater hose.  I would see if it is temperature rated for 180 
degree water!  I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it was cheaper 
than 15 feet at West.   If you were nearby, I'd give you the rest. Yes, I'd 
hook up a hose and see if there is a leak.  They likely bypassed it for a 
reason. Joel
Virus-free. www.avg.com
On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hello all,
 
 Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
 
 There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.
 
 I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
refused to return my call.
 
 My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?
 
 Here is a pic at survey.
 
 https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3
 
 You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
 
 Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
 
 Danny
 Mattapoisett, Ma
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The fresh water side of the water heater will sit around 35-50 PSI on a boat.
The engine coolant side is about 0-10 or so.
FYI

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery


Ok, so maybe I go back to testing the heat exchanger with a pump and a bucket 
of water.  The pressure around the boat yard is probably near 30 or 40 lbs or 
so  I may try the "glassblower" method first!

On 5/2/2017 3:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water heater was 
also bypassed.  The hoses were still connected, but a section had been cut out 
to make the loop.  As a check, I flushed the hoses with clean water (there was 
actually still antifreeze in them which gave me comfort that the heater was 
probably not leaking), and then plugged one end with my finger and blew heavily 
into the other end.  Not a proper pressure check by any means, but it was 
enough to give me some confidence.

Then, I filled the heater with antifreeze & water mix as a stop-gap until I 
could get around to fully flushing the engine and replacing the antifreeze.

It's working great.

I agree that the clear hose is not a good substitute for proper heater hose.

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Frederick G Street <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

Danny - I'm not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high 
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with 
high-temp rated hose.  I've seen the clear hose develop "aneurisms" when under 
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you'll lose all your coolant.

Having said that, it's nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the black 
high-temp hose doesn't allow.  In doing a quick search, it appears that there 
is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available.  This might be a nice option 
if you want to see the coolant flow.  I don't have any personal experience with 
this hose.

- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.

There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.

I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply refused 
to return my call.

My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?

Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3<https://1drv.ms/i/s%21Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3>

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.

Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, so maybe I go back to testing the heat exchanger with a pump and a 
bucket of water.  The pressure around the boat yard is probably near 30 
or 40 lbs or so  I may try the "glassblower" method first!



On 5/2/2017 3:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water 
heater was also bypassed.  The hoses were still connected, but a 
section had been cut out to make the loop.  As a check, I flushed the 
hoses with clean water (there was actually still antifreeze in them 
which gave me comfort that the heater was probably not leaking), and 
then plugged one end with my finger and blew heavily into the other 
end.  Not a proper pressure check by any means, but it was enough to 
give me some confidence.


Then, I filled the heater with antifreeze & water mix as a stop-gap 
until I could get around to fully flushing the engine and replacing 
the antifreeze.


It's working great.

I agree that the clear hose is not a good substitute for proper heater 
hose.

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



*From:* Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Frederick G Street 
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the 
high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the 
nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear 
hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will 
burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.


Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the 
black high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it 
appears that there is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available. 
 This might be a nice option if you want to see the coolant flow.  I 
don’t have any personal experience with this hose.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat 
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection. 
 Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired 
the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things. 
 Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the 
toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized they had 
completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they 
simply refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the 
issue is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 
<https://1drv.ms/i/s%21Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3>


You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water heater was 
also bypassed.  The hoses were still connected, but a section had been cut out 
to make the loop.  As a check, I flushed the hoses with clean water (there was 
actually still antifreeze in them which gave me comfort that the heater was 
probably not leaking), and then plugged one end with my finger and blew heavily 
into the other end.  Not a proper pressure check by any means, but it was 
enough to give me some confidence.
Then, I filled the heater with antifreeze & water mix as a stop-gap until I 
could get around to fully flushing the engine and replacing the antifreeze.  

It's working great.
I agree that the clear hose is not a good substitute for proper heater hose.  
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
   
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high 
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with 
high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear hose develop “aneurisms” when under 
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.
Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the black 
high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it appears that there 
is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available.  This might be a nice option 
if you want to see the coolant flow.  I don’t have any personal experience with 
this hose.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.

There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.

I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply refused 
to return my call.

My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?

Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.

Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater mystery

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

+1
The *coolant side* would be maybe 10 or 15 PSI max. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mitchell's 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 2:02 PM
To: CNC List 
Cc: Mitchell's 
Subject: Stus-List Water heater mystery

Danny, not sure I would test that high a pressure. The coolant pressure won't 
be as high as your domestic water pressure. You could pressurize the tank with 
fresh water and test the bypass loop by opening the loop caps if they are 
capped. If the loop leaks it can be easily repaired. But that doesn't deal with 
the original issue of a tripping breaker! Perhaps the element is burned or 
shorted. Maybe the tank is leaking on the thermostat? Lots of things to look 
at. Good luck, Len

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Stus-List Water heater mystery

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Danny, not sure I would test that high a pressure. The coolant pressure won't 
be as high as your domestic water pressure. You could pressurize the tank with 
fresh water and test the bypass loop by opening the loop caps if they are 
capped. If the loop leaks it can be easily repaired. But that doesn't deal with 
the original issue of a tripping breaker! Perhaps the element is burned or 
shorted. Maybe the tank is leaking on the thermostat? Lots of things to look 
at. Good luck, Len

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Just as an FYI, here is the heater setup.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mp3gif8d6_wPOkLJR

Getting that out will not be an easy job!

Danny


On 5/2/2017 12:09 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the 
high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the 
nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear 
hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will 
burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.


Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the 
black high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it 
appears that there is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available. 
 This might be a nice option if you want to see the coolant flow.  I 
don’t have any personal experience with this hose.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat 
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection. 
 Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired 
the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things. 
 Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the 
toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized they had 
completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they 
simply refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the 
issue is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 



You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma




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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, So, the first think to do would be to pressurize it and then, if i 
don't see any leaks, get some appropriate hose.  given that the working 
pressure is 150 and the test pressure is 300, hooking up a hose should 
not be a problem.  I think I'll go that route.  I tell you, getting 12 
gals of hot water on board will go a VERY long way to making the admiral 
happy!!  Fingers crossed this heater will get some use!


Thanks guys!


On 5/2/2017 12:09 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the 
high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the 
nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear 
hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will 
burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.


Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the 
black high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it 
appears that there is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available. 
 This might be a nice option if you want to see the coolant flow.  I 
don’t have any personal experience with this hose.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat 
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection. 
 Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired 
the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things. 
 Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the 
toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized they had 
completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they 
simply refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the 
issue is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 



You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma




___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high 
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with 
high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear hose develop “aneurisms” when under 
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.

Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the black 
high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it appears that there 
is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available.  This might be a nice option 
if you want to see the coolant flow.  I don’t have any personal experience with 
this hose.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, 
> the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the 
> survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
> 
> There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger 
> inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed 
> some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 
> of her 30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, 
> replace some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I 
> realized they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger 
> tubing from the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me 
> about.
> 
> I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
> refused to return my call.
> 
> My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?
> 
> Here is a pic at survey.
> 
> https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 
> 
> 
> You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
> connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
> through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
> Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
> 
> Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
> 
> Danny
> Mattapoisett, Ma

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

That is not heater hose.  I would see if it is temperature rated for 180
degree water!  I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it was
cheaper than 15 feet at West.   If you were nearby, I'd give you the rest.

Yes, I'd hook up a hose and see if there is a leak.  They likely bypassed
it for a reason.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat,
> the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the
> survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
>
> There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger
> inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed
> some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent
> 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace
> filters, replace some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the
> boat home I realized they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat
> exchanger tubing from the water heater to the engine and never said
> anything to me about.
>
> I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply
> refused to return my call.
>
> My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue
> is?
>
> Here is a pic at survey.
>
> https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3
>
> You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two
> connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water
> through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.
> Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
>
> Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
>
> Danny
> Mattapoisett, Ma
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger 
inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i 
needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where 
she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, 
replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I 
got the boat home I realized they had completely disconnected and 
bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from the water heater to the engine 
and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue 
is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!