I'm always a little wary about changing a design. I ask myself: what was in
the designer's mind when he did this? What characteristic was he trying to
achieve and what information did he have that I do not?
Consult the fan design and see how its rating varies with pressure on one side
or the
I noticed that none of the mini modules have a container to hold them. I
know this is not usually necessary for most of them, however the W1 seems to
really beg to be inside a shielded box of substantial material.
Has anyone put a W1 into a box yet? Does Elecraft plan on offering a box for
it?
Keith,
I have never had the fan in my KPA100 activate, it never gets warm
enough here in Southern Ontario. I doubt that your New England
temperatures are much different than here.
Forget about the fan operation and use your K2/100.
73, Bob VE3XM
___
At 10:08 AM 12/6/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote...
Very key point. If you want to take heat out of a box, you're far
better to point the fans out and let them draw in cool air from the
other side than to point the fan in and blow cool air in. Here's
why.
When you blow a fan into a box (K2, PC,
David G3UNA wrote:
Consult the fan design and see how its rating varies with pressure on one
side or the other. The air flow rate drops dramatically from its headline
advertised value as soon as it encounters any back pressure in front of it
and with restriction on the inlet side.
Also finger grills and panel slots create turbulence which can drastically
reduce flow. For a common or garden 'computer' type of fan, a dust filter
can practically stop air flow all together, so, choose with care.
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
John,
Think single point ground (the one at the breaker box end) - it minimizes
circulating ground currents. Great for audio (keeps hum off the equipment
enclosures, etc.), but of no value for RF.
BTW - are you saying you are working on a bench with a conducting metal top?
If so, that is a
It's all buttoned up after completing the transmitter alignment: QRP CW K2 with
160m module, internal battery, and the KDSP2 module.
I've got it set up for 400 Hz pitch, with XFIL's at 700, 400, 300, and 150 Hz
nominal bandwidths, with BFO frequencies initially set as suggested by Don,
W3FPR.
Indeed, turbulence can reduce flow. I must confess that I have no experience
with using a 'computer' type of fan to cool rigs.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
- Original Message -
From: David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft
Discussion List
Hi Julius,
Both my K2/100s, #4970 and #5570 exhibit excessive current draw on 160
meters, as indicated by the ammeter on my 30 watt Astron PS. It gets up to
27 or 28 amps. I use a 30 amp fuse. In every other respect, my two
K2/100's work perfectly. Current draw on all the other bands is
Hi John,
Do you use the KAT100 with yours? Or is it just
straight to the load?
I do see a lot of RF in the shack with my sniffer on
160. It seems like it is coming from the sides of the
KAT100. I'm going to experiment this weekend,
hopefully, taking the tuner out of the line altogether
and see
FWIW late in the 160m contest I noticed the K2/100 was a little warm. I
switched to the current reading on my power supply and saw numbers in the
27-30 A range. I realized that a couple hours before I had cranked the power
all the way up to 111 watts (as high as it went) and hadn't turned it back
Hi Julius and Craig,
Ordinarilly, I have my KAT100 in line to flatten my antennas. During the
alignment and test phase on the bench it was not used. I just had a watt
meter and dummy load connected. I usually have the power set to 100 watts
out
I will experiment to see if there is a
A designer will take into account which parts he wants to cool first. For
instance, if a sensitive component (vfo?) is on the cool side of the draught
then it will not be affected by a hot component down stream. However, if
the direction is reversed you could be creating a problem that wasn't
I have been enjoying my newly built K2 #058xx for several weeks now. I
have seen the posts about excessive current draw on 160, but many of
them are involving the 100w amp, which I do not have (yet). Well, I
have the same problem, draw sometimes exceeds 4 amps on 160. Power
supply is stable
John, Julius,
The normal thing to look at in a high current situation is the low pass
filter. Check both on the base K2 and the KPA100. First thing is to count
the turns on the toroids - count only the turns that pass through the center
of the core or you might end up with an extra turn.
On
Just noticed that I only have 2 screws, out of 4, still holding the LCD
bezel in place on my K2. These are small.#2-56 x 1/8 screws. Has
anybody had this problem? How about lockwashers or nail polishany
experience with either of these possible solutions???
73 de K5AVJ - Lynn
Hi Don,
thank you very much, I will definitely take a look at
that. It certainly is easy to miscount a densely wound
toroid when distracted.
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
--- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
John, Julius,
The normal thing to look at in a high current
situation is the low pass
Hi Don,
Thanks for your help. I will do as you suggest. (Not today though_ too
many honey-dos.)
What gives me pause: how could I screw up twice the same way? I suppose
it's possible.
73,
John, W2GW
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: John Reiser
Hi Jimmy,
I apologize for the difference in shipping weight you discovered. This
can happen especially when the items ordered are very small and light.
We've now reviewed and adjusted the shipping weights for the
mini-modules on our order page.
Thanks for the heads-up!
73, Eric WA6HHQ
_..._
Fellas:
For what it's probably worth, I just checked my K2/100 on 160M into a
known good BW 50-Ohm dummyload/wattmeter.
At 14.2VDC supply (out of the P/S) my KPA100 draws 16A of current at
a measured 100W into the dummyload.
Just to muck up the discussion a bit more.
73,
Tom N0SS
Hi Tom,
That is indeed valuable input. Thanks!
73,
John, W2GW
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; John Reiser [EMAIL PROTECTED]; J F
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Discussion List
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006
I can't imagine those small screws backing out on
their own? No need to use lock-nut or such, on these
screws. The only risk I saw on K2 # 54xx, was the
chance of tightening them too much, and cracking
the bessel plastic. Do you operate your K2, on
a vibrating boat or something? Anything else
Long ago Ten-Tec made a model 405 amplifier. It could take 5 watts in
and produce 50 watts out. There are also some Tokyo Highpower amps
around that people have bought directly from Japan. You could also
arrange to buy one directly from the company. They technically aren't
legal because
Why not build the KPA100 and put it in an EC2 to make it outboard??? You'll
really be happy!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 4:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Barebone K2
On Dec 7, 2006, at 2:23 PM, Fred (FL) wrote:
Are there any 50 or 100 watt external amplifiers,
that a barebone QRP K2 can drive? Is anyone
using one, for SSB and CW?
Itch'n to build nother ...
Under the current FCC rules, an external amplifier cannot be driven
to its rated
You might want to check this one out.
http://www.hfprojects.com/hfprojects/
Bob
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Barebone K2 Amplifier?
I am currently building one using a Communication-Concepts AN762 amplifier
kit, and using
The band pass filter board from hfprojects. I built a case out of PC Boards,
and am currently wiring
It up. I need to take some pictures, and can make them available as it goes.
Mike
AI4NS
-Original
What is the current total cost (parts + shipping, US$) of the
combination of the AN762 and the band pass filter board, including the
case and fitting?
I wanted to make a cost comparison between that plus an auto-tuner vs
the KPA100 which I understand incorporates a tuner.
(I think the amp is a
Hi Gang
Yes, I know this is a bit difficult...but just along the lines of..
Gee, wouldn't it be nice??
Wouldn't it be great if the K2 did FM so that if you bought the
transverters you could chat with local friends on 2M/6M, or
70cm FM !!!
73..de..Fred
Fred,
Elecraft has the KPA100 which offers automatic bandswitching and a lot of
other features. It can be driven by the barebones K2 quite nicely.
Add an EC2 enclosure and you can have the KPA100 external and still with all
the function of the inboard unit - your basic K2 will still be ready to
Doug, Fred, and all,
I had forgotten about the 405! But you are also correct Tokyo Highpower makes
two models of amplifters, a 50 watt and a 100 watt. There was also an article
in QST in the last year or two that described the type of amp Fred was looking
for.
Fred(FL) don't forget to
We've just released the latest version of our W1 companion software.
This is the VBasic program that runs on your pc and communicates with
the W1.
The key feature of this release is it adds the ability to quickly and
easily set user parameters in the W1 and save them in the W1's EEPROM.
Some time back I saw a K2 with a carry handle mounted on the right side.
Does anyone remember this? If you have a carry handle on your K2, I'd be
glad to hear from you and receive pictures.
Mark, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
K2 # 0539
FISTS # 2972 cc 1806
SKCC # 2240
ARCI # 12647
AZ ScQRPion
Many small rice-box rigs have carry handles on one end/side.
Buy one as a replacement part ... and don't forget the mounting
hardware.
Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
OK, I really do have RTTY filters on my K2! Gotta dig down in the menus
a bit, but there they are. This will be a whole new RTTY Roundup for me.
Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a
Fred,
Remember that the RTTY filters are just a set of 4 extra filters - you can
use them for whatever purpose you want - and it does not necessarily have to
be data modes. If one wants a special set of filters for contesting (for
instance), then by all means set them up that way. There is
Does anyone have a parts listing for a Landwehr 70cm preamp. The unit comes
with a schematic but no parts listings.
Steven Bornstein K8IDN
475 E. North Broadway
Columbus, Ohio 43214
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You
Thanks Don, K3FPR, for the troubleshooting info. I isolated the problem to the
VCO part of the RF board. When I replaced T5 with the VCOSHLDKT a couple of
years ago, I did not tin the T5 toroid wires very well. The K2 quit a few days
ago. I removed the toroid, retinned the wires, resoldered
Basic connection between PC -- SL-1+ -- K2, in my
setup is:
Two stereo cables from soundcard (1ea for mic in
and spkr out) to SL-1+.
Mono cable from K2 rear spkr jack to SL-1+ rear
Spkr jack.
RJ-45 to 8-pin round mic connector cable from SL-1+
(RJ-45 end) to K2 (8-pin connector end).
A few years ago, after completing my first K2, I had investigated the
Tokyo Highpower amplifiers. I exchanged emails with a salesman at Tokyo
Highpower and he was very cooperative. The delivered price of the 100
watt amp was about $450 shipped from Japan. Considering everything it
was not a
Hi Group,
KPA100 is very good when it operates with K2. However, if you have other
non-K2 QRP rigs, you may wish to consider other 3rd party amplifiers such
as those from Tokyo High Power or HFproject. You may need an amplifier not
only restricted to the operation of K2.
I would think,
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