I've always found that if you have a loud CW signal present, and you start
narrowing down the passband width just adjacent to them, you get clicks..
That's just codes little way of knocking at the door of the filter... Until you
get narrow enough, or far enough away from their transmission
You're the 10th person to ask for this, I touched on this about a year ago...
From: p...@xs4all.nl
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 19:24:59 +0100
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: L-mix-R
I've tried the L-mix-R this weekend. It is good step forward but still, I am
missing one
This is exactally what I was asking for about a year ago...
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:52:32 +
From: w...@cox.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Testing the New K3 audio mix feature
The new audio mix feature for dual receiving is great, but I have a
suggestion to
Make sure that you put the split lock washer spacer between the synth board and
the stand off. I've seen too many cases where people ddn't take the time to
put that in, or did it incorrectly and have crushed the SMD Resistor near the
screw hole. Pull your board off and make sure you don't
What is your SWR before the ATU tuned the antenna? Perhaps you have low volume
because you're running with a 12:1 SWR?
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
From: rfenab...@gmail.com
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 06:01:51 +
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Volume
Hi
Again today I had soft audio
I know someone that drives a bus for a living..
WHAT DOES ANY OF THIS HAVE TO DO WITH THE GUYS QUESTION. He had a VERY simple
question. Just answer it if you know, if not, save your science lessons for
those that actually want to talk about that off the reflector! Some times you
CAN be too
Vidi,
Don't worry it's happened to a lot of us. I was just suggesting something
similar to the group the other day. Either have the numbers change in the main
VFO as you Xmit (like most rigs out there do) have the Delta F light blink
obnoxiously (hmmm) or perhaps even your idea where the
Steve,
This is true, but what happens when you operate your rig like I do, and you
keep your RIT on. The second that you move that knob the Delta F light comes
on for the same exact reason.. So am I to understand that I'm in Delta F
because I'm still in split, or because I have my RIT on and
in split mode.
From: wb6r...@mac.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:06:08 -0700
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Split reminder
On Oct 19, 2009, at 12:34 PM, The Smiths wrote:
This is true, but what happens when you operate your rig like I do,
and you keep your
Actually Martin, I do use the RIT with the Split mode. Here's why:
Some times when you're listening to the DX station, and other start
transmitting on top of him, it's nice to RIT away from his beat Freq. up or
down a little so that you can move the shift knob over +/- and get rid of those
the delta-F LED do if you have RIT on while
in SPLIT mode?
73
--
Joe KB8AP
On Oct 19, 2009, at 1:38 PM, The Smiths wrote:
As we already agreed, the RIT can put this rig into the SAME EXACT
indication that it's in Split mode. Actually fooling the user
Better yet, wouldn't it be much nicer if the display could change to the Xmit
freq. when you're in split mode? I know we have the little yellow LED, and the
Tiny little Arrow pointing to the B channel, but having the display actually
show you where you're transmitting, like when the RIT is on
frequency, and it is
always displayed, unless you have a special display mode in effect.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Oct 15, 2009, at 4:59 PM, The Smiths wrote:
Better yet, wouldn't it be much nicer if the display could change to
the Xmit freq. when you're in split mode
MCM Electronics has some headphones that cost from $5 to $40 dollars... I have
the Stellear Noise canceling head sets I bought for $20, and as an All CW guy
in a VERY noisy shack, I wouldn't have anything else. For the money, you can't
beat them.
Sounds to me like you held the button in too long, and you're in Diversity mode
now.. Is the decimal point blinking? if so, turn off the sub, then turn it back
on again. That should do the trick.
Also, it seems that in the BSET mode, the B VFO is still not locked to the A
VFO when in
Sounds like it's time to pull the Sub out, check what you get, then push it
back in.. either that, or reload the software and see if that takes care of
things. that's simple enough to do first.
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:25:41 -0400
From: a...@indy.rr.com
To: k3supp...@elecraft.com;
to control different ears guess it still isnt off diversity that is.
The Smiths wrote:
Sounds to me like you held the button in too long, and you're in
Diversity mode now.. Is the decimal point blinking? if so, turn off
the sub, then turn it back on again. That should do the trick
I think that what he's describing is an issue with when changing bands, the NR
goes off during the switch over, and all of the noise floor that was being
suppressed comes back up making a loud noise.
From: n...@elecraft.com
To: d...@vibrotek.com
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 14:12:59 -0700
CC:
I'm with you. If I wanted to talk on CB I wouldn't have taken all the time to
learn morse code in the first place. Well, either that or I would just get on
the VHF/UHF bands... NO ROGER BEEPS.. PLEASE for the love of
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
From: rfenab...@gmail.com
Date: Tue,
I would say that it's just fine Wayne! Good on you!
From: n...@elecraft.com
To: i...@baguano.hlg.sld.cu
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 12:48:17 -0700
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hola a todos
Edgar Iniesta wrote:
Hola ando buscando un transceptor para la banda de 160
Eric,
No No no, I have been grossly misinterpreted. I never asked for a combination
of 3.25 and 3.27. BOTH of these NR's are far from aggressive enough for my
type of Noise floor and Narrow band CW work. Furthermore they take WAY too long
to build the filters.
What I was asking for was
It's become obvious to me that the most of the full time CW ops on the
reflector were very happy with the fast responding, instant changing, very
aggressive filters on the Pre 3.25 NR. So long as you didn't choose a filter
that was too aggressive for your needs, I never found that I cut
As a CW operator, I can state very matter of fact, the old NR was exactly what
I needed to operate code at my QTH, AND the biggest reason that I chose to buy
the K3 over another larger radio. Unlike others that don't seem to think the NR
ever did anything, I can emphatically tell you that with
I'm not sure about others, but I have found that the new NR on V3.25 is just
not aggressive enough for me. All of the noise gateing effect has been removed.
However, Like others have said, on SSB it is very nice indeed. For CW I find
that turning from 1-1 to 4-4 makes very little
I have a constant S5 to S7 noise floor here at my QTH.. It's both QRN and QRM.
This is especially true when the conditions change so that the DX is present. I
find that when I use NR 3-5 with Med5 I reduce the QRN by at least 2 S units.
I've never had an NR that actually reduced random band
SNIP:
And when you use CWT centering maximizing the decoding accuracy, you get
spot-on, consistently repeatable tuning. No RIT needed. Of course that
assumes search and pounce is the preferred style of operation.
If you park on a frequency and call CQ you surrender tuning control to
the
SNIP:
And when you use CWT centering maximizing the decoding accuracy, you get
spot-on, consistently repeatable tuning. No RIT needed. Of course that assumes
search and pounce is the preferred style of operation. If you park on a
frequency and call CQ you surrender tuning control to the other
I'm sorry, but I'm actually Sickened by the idea that our hobby has come to the
point where someone has such little will to actually participate in the actual
contact. I mean, if you can't even be bothered to send your own contact
information, RST and call sign, why even bother being a Ham
Another trick that I've used instead of having magnetic screw drivers is to buy
a puck of Surf board wax. Keep that in your tool box. Just push the tip of
your screw driver into the wax puck then pick up the screw. One puck should
last you about 15 years! At $1.50 it's pretty well worth it.
I don't normally make comments on these subjects.. But I have to say, the one
reason that I bought my K3, was because when I turn on the NR with a weak
signal, and a S5 to S7 noise level (which is what I normally have at my QTH)
the CW underneath the noise pops up, gets louder, and I can
Mario,
Make sure that you're in AFSK or PSK A modes, not SSB. Then make sure that you
actually DID turn up the line input (MIC) level in THAT mode, it changes when
you move from mode to mode.
_
Rediscover Hotmail®: Get quick
Lyle,
I'm going to assume that one of your 2 commands makes it so that the Sub goes
to BOTH ears, but the Main also continues to come out of the Main side as well?
I hope that you're also working on a way to mix Sub and main into BOTH ears.
Perhaps only 50% of sub in the main ear, and 50% of
What is it called when my shoe is un-tied? Or should I post more about how
Elecraft's telephone line that wasn't working yesterday? I'm not sure what
other nonesense I can come up with to spend an ENTIRE day and over 50 Posts
with today... Hmmm When did this site become a Chat room?
As always I'm in flabbergasted about how much useless stuff goes around this
user group. Like 150 posts on an LED for the K3 or what headphones someone
should use (subject BEATEN to DEATH) or what antenna to use (useful, but gets
old after 400 posts) But when it comes to someone with a
Make sure that you have a good ground on the output of the Ant connector. I
had a similar problem where the SWR would not come down because the powder coat
was not removed from an SO-239 connetor where it was supposed to be.
_
Dont bother with the line in unless you plan to use DATA mode. The jack
doesn't seem to activate unless you're in the data mode. Or at least that's
what I've found. Turn your gain back up, switch to data mode, then put the VOX
on, and try again. I think that you'll find it works just fine.
Gary,
If you Just can't do those mods by yourself for some reason, and you need some
help. I will be happy to do your mods for free. You will be responsible to
pay the shipping to and from the states for the required boards, but the mods
(other then normal parts prices) will be free of
I've seen PLL errors when there is an SMD resistor near the pem nut that has
been crushed by improper tightening, or lack of lock washer placed behind the
board. Look at your PCB, and see if you can find any cracked parts going up to
the TMP connetor output leading to the Sub rec. Synth
I would like to suggest an upgrade for the SPOT control function. As you
know, the SPOT function changes the Main VFO's frequency to Beat Frequency a
CW signal. This function is wonderful when used to tune in a received signal
within the CWT area. However, if after sending a CQ, and having
I would like to suggest an upgrade to be added to the Headphone/speaker mode or
AFX menu. As you know, now when you listen to the main and the sub receiver in
your stereo headphone, or stereo speakers, you hear the Main VFO in the Left
speaker (headset) and the Sub Receiver in the Right
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