Who uses this K2 ( KDSP2 ) noise reduction ?
Does it really work that unbelievably well as the sample on the K2
page suggests ?
Peter
Don't forget the DSP unit costs 1/3 the price of a basic K2.
In answer to your question, mine is as effective as the samples on the
Elecraft web site. Most
K2 #5565, KAT2, KAF2, and just added K160RX. Page 9 of K160RX Manual -
3rd action fails with an error of INFO232 - 'CAL PLL on wrong band',
even though I re-checked that VFO displays 1800.10 as directed. I also
checked these actions against my other K2 #5459 with the same result. I
must
Mark,
You are correct that you overlooked something. The Errata sheet! If you
read it, it will tell you that there is no need to perform CAL PLL on 160
meters.
It used to be that CAL PLL was done on each band (like when the K160RX
manual was last updated), but it disappeared long ago. CAL PLL
Hello,
I will be out on the Appalachian Trail north of Strausstown, PA for the
Flight of the Bumblebee.
Wx is going to in the 90's with high humidity. There is also a good chance
of strong thunderstorms. That is the reason why I plan on going to a
location I could get back to my car within
Ron Polityka wrote:
Hello,
I will be out on the Appalachian Trail north of Strausstown, PA for
the Flight of the Bumblebee.
Wx is going to in the 90's with high humidity. There is also a good
chance of strong thunderstorms. That is the reason why I plan on going
to a location I could get
I'm performing the Alignment Test, Part II
It says under Alternatively, ..
Tune the receiver to 4.000 MHz, and adjust C22 until you hear a zero-beat
(pitch=0 hz).
I'm taking that to mean that I adjust C22 until the tone disappears and I don't
hear anything (pitch=0
Karl:
Do a Google search on Flight of the Bumblebees. You will find it points
you to:
www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/bumblebees/bb_rules.html
73's,
John AA0VE
Karl Larsen wrote:
Where can I learn about this contest Ron? Do you have a website?
I am posting this message to alert interested builders that Jack, K8ZOA
is now taking orders for his Z-90 panadapter project kit. I showed his
prototype at Dayton connected to my K2, and a number of Elecrafters
asked me to post a message if the kit became available. You can find out
more at
Some you might find the CAD renderings on our News page interesting,
even if you have no intention of purchasing our new rev. G PCB. The URL
is http://www.unpcbs.com/news/
These renderings were created with PCB-Render, which can be freely
downloaded from the FreePCB website.
Gary,
'It all depends' is the correct answer. Some receivers display the
frequency that they are tuned to and others consider the CW offset when
displaying the frequency. If your other receiver uses the offset method,
then you would tune to the pitch of the offset.
You could tune it in SSB
To all who emailed me with adding my straight key to my K2:
Many thanks to you! Now I can use BOTH my straight key AND my paddles, and
can actually go back and forth to them without any menu changes on the K2.
Thanks to those who steered me to the K2 Manual page for CW OPERATION (CAPS
mine),
I have the following items for sale:
1. Oak Hills Research SFF-1A Switched Capacitor Filter
Like new with manual. Bandwidths 108, 230, 383, 459
574, 2440 Hz. Great CW filter. $40.00 + 5.00 shipping
CONUS.
2. W9GR DSP-3 Like new with
I have for sale a set of unused pre-wound toroids for the K2 (by Toroid Guy).
$30.00 shipped (CONUS ONLY). Please email off list.
Pay-Pal or postal money order preferred. No credit cards with Pay-Pal please.
Thanks !!
Ken, W2GIW
Oaklyn, NJ
Other K2 builders/owners:
Im in the process of building my K2 transceiver and have arrived at the step
for installing the LCD on the front panel board. The LCD that came with my kit
has the clear strip mentioned on the front (display) side, but on the back side
it has an opaque strip with no
Other K2 builders/owners:
Im in the process of building my K2 transceiver and have arrived at the step
for installing the LCD on the front panel board. The LCD that came with my kit
has the clear strip mentioned on the front (display) side, but on the back side
it has an opaque strip with no
Ron wrote:
Would you advise against installing the 80 meter board during initial
assembly? If so, why?
Ron,
Since I had no desire to remove/change components, I was planning on
installing the 80/30 board during the initial assembly until I read some
advice posted here pointing out
On 7/30/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
the LCD on the front panel board. The LCD that came with my kit has the clear
strip
mentioned on the front (display) side, but on the back side it has an opaque
strip with
no markings on it. Should this opaque strip be removed or left in
On 7/30/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
the LCD on the front panel board. The LCD that came with my kit
has the clear strip mentioned on the front (display) side, but
on the back side it has an opaque strip with no markings on it.
Should this opaque strip be removed or left in place?
LCD's operate
I just finished my KX-1. I am not sure if I have problems or not. The output
power into a dummy load is only 2 watts. I completed the power mod replacing
resistors R11 and R30 which made little or any difference. Also the receiver
sensitivity seems noticeably better on 40 meters. Any comments?
Dave,
If your power supply is 13.8 volts, you can expect more power output than
that. Check into a known good 50 ohm dummy load with the tuner removed and
the jumper in place.
If you still have problems, check T1 and the Low Pass Filter (L1 and L2 and
associated capacitors) for proper winding,
Yes Don,
This was most helpful and crystal clear.
On the basis of your appreciated explanations I made up my mind what to do.
This is a great reflector.
Thanks very much !
Peter, PE1E
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: PE1E [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Elecraft List
While removing a defective speaker from a KPA100 and replacing it with a
speaker from the QRP top of a basic K2 I discovered that they are wired
different. On the KPA100 the silver wire goes to the positive speaker
terminal and on the basic K2 the copper wire goes to the positive terminal.
Hi Peter,
Don's comment is very true indeed. I started K2 at the serial No1146 up to
4597. All K2s can be easily upgraded to latest specifications.
For my s/n 4597, I have recently upgraded with the SSB B/W modification
kit. The result is very pleased - better audio, less insertion loss,
My KPA-100 is finished and after a few trials and tribulations it
appears to be working extremely well now. My initial transmissions
were reported to be fuzzy and buzzy so after a few stressful nights I
tried to figure out what was going on. I also had no PO control on
In a recent message, Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...
When set to MENU | INP | PDL N, THEN press [DISPLAY] and set A DET to
ON. Did you, by chance, forget that small item? It's crucial.
I did forget to do that, Tom; thanks for the advice. But I have just
changed AdEt On and am still
Right Tom, I have done that... Joined the dit and dah connections both
to the hot side of the straight key and removed the 1N5821 Schottky
diodes completely. And yes, I still have the problem of occasional
dah-di-dah-di-dahs when pressing the key.
As you suggest, that would appear to rule out
Wow! Great nets! A lot of work digging for weak signals but we did it.
We even had XE2URF stop by and CQ on top of us ;) After a little prodding
he politely moved elsewhere. Nice of him, I appreciate his propriety.
Two new provinces in Canada today too: Prince Edward Island and Quebec.
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