100% normal -- not to worry.
If the entire panel starts to glow, reduce CW speed.
A dull orange seems OK Wayne but smoke from the paddle is hurting my eyes.
73
Gary ZL2iFB
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Joe,
Thank you kindly. I have downloaded the manual and find it a complex
procedure but perhaps all will fall into place. The other sources of
information I was unaware of and I am very grateful for your referring me to
them. You have done at least one good turn this day.
73
One other stupid question... In prep for FD I decided to do some TX
tests... I found that the radio starts limiting power output and giving
HI CUR messages around 66 to 68C PA TEMP. I recall Eric stating that
the rig would be fine to 85C. Is this HI CUR message normal at this
range? I'm
Two direct requests for copies of the following procedure constitute a real
flood of interest in this topic (well, in my books anyway).
The attached email was the result of me stupidly volunteering my K3 for FD
again this year in the same breath that I boasted about the ease with which
Thank you for your help. I'm at work right now, but will do more
research this weekend.
My friend has had the radio for a couple of weeks and has made
contacts on the radio so it mostly seems to work, but his Lo P message
appears once in a while and I've never seen it on my K2.
I changed the
Two keys here (pad pun?)
1. A USBSerial Cable talks to the K3 and N1MM. When you first plug one
in, the software may assign the K3 a port number higher than 8. N1MM won't
recognize it. You must re-assign an unused port number to the USB that is
8 or less and then use that port number
John :
Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1 station.
If you want 5W you will need a 12V+ pack. If you are willing to settle
for about 3w out the K1 will hum along
nicely at 9 to 10V. It is quite a miserly rig so you can easily manage
a day outing with battery capacity
in
-Original Message-
From: Steve, NN4X
That is something which I keep very much in mind with radios like the
Flex, and the idea of PC-dominated radios in general - really, you're
always potentially one Windows update away from breaking the rig. If
the company goes out of business, or
If cost is not an issue, look into A123 battery packs, either thru
buddipole or hfprojects, or you could order cells and roll your own.
Matt
W8ESE
On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 7:25 AM, Michael Babineaumbabin...@magma.ca wrote:
John :
Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1
Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1 station.
For several years, I've used various 12VDC gel cells with reasonably good
success. To better deal with the voltage drop issue over the course of long
weekend operations, I've switched to a +14.4VDC portable battery pack from
Before you reach a decision on battery packs, be sure to read Wayne's Tech Note
at
http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm
Basically, the principle of impedance matching applies to both input and output
of a rig. A DC input mismatch results in waste heat, which is usually not a
Dick,
Sorry, I gave you the error message when I tried to go back to 3.14. The proper
files seem to be in each folder. When I try to load 3.19, I get:
-
FPF firmware file hfpf0101.hex verified
Erasing flash memory
Sending firmware file hfpf0101.hex to FPF
Send FPF firmware failed at
What about bringing along a couple of diodes to use externally to drop the
excess voltage until your supply batteries have depleated a bit. Eliminate
them one at a time as the voltage drops. Same result of having the
longevity of the higher voltage supply and no additional strain on the K1.
I am embarrassed to say but I have a high current indication on
nearly all bands during Tx. (new build and I thought I was being so
so careful).
The Rec. draws 240 ma. at 12.4 volts. Does change slightly with
option changes.
Attempted transmitter Tune up Test Part Three page 77
Before you reach a decision on battery packs, be sure to read Wayne's Tech
Note at
http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm
That's a good summary of power supply optimization for the K1. According to
Wayne's Note, the most efficient use of battery voltage becomes a function
of
Price $200.00 including shipping to usa only.
Please reply directly to me.
Thanks,
Bill, AA1O
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Post:
I purchased the KRX3 to monitor 6M while the radio is in use
on other bands I connect a 6M omni antenna to the KRX3
and use the KAT3's #2 antenna to feed a 6M array when
the K3 is switched to 6M. The resulting diversity receive
-is- impressive!
The as-designed choices to select what antenna is
Hey guys I ran across the site on Facebook and it's really neat!!!
Though the program is in Italian you get the IDEA!!!
Knowledge and Friendship thru TELECOMMUNICATIONS!
JIM/nn6ee
***
Hello Brett,
Your question:
Is it normal for the right side to run quite a bit warmer after installation
of the KRX3.
I did notice the same effect. I asked support and they confirmed it as
something normal. (I didn't expect that increase in heat production as
well).
73's, Evert PA2KW
Hi Ken!
How about this option. TMP cable from KRX3 to a BNC on the back of the radio
(Use the
hole for the external ref). Connect this to the common position of an external
two-
position switch. Then run a TMP cable from the KAT3 where the subRX connects
to the
BNC for the AUX RF. Connect
First question is - why are you using 4.045 MHz - that is outside the
ham band. Use 3.750 MHz instead. Similarly, 10.00 MHz should be in the
range of 10.100 to 10.150 MHz. Also 25.012 is not a good frequency
either, use 24.90 That is not likely to change your results with the
HI-Cur
This procedure essentially uses the microHAM CW Keyer as
a stand alone WinKey keyer. It completely fails to make
use of the CAT or PTT interface in the microHAM Keyer.
The appropriate configuration for microHAM CW keyer and
most popular software packages (including N1MM Logger)
may be
I recently added a digital voice module to my K3. It does everything it is
advertised to do, and does it very well.
One question occurs to me. The off the air recording feature is a real plus
and will be handy. Is there any way to extract a useful digital copy of the
recorded audio in a way that
Now that he has seen what I have done, Joe W4TV tells me that this is an
incorrect configuration because it completely bypasses the things you get
from MH Keyer, like CAT and PTT. Of course he is right. What I have not
made clear to everyone is that my solution is specific to our Halifax
Amateur
Dick,
Thanks. You were correct about the problem. I have a short (3 ft) extender
cable connected to the KUSB cable. The junction between the two was slightly
loose. I tightened it and loaded OK.
I suspected the K3 because the MCU load always worked. It must be that the FPF
load exercised the
A slight change, we'll follow the posted Phone frequency list:
SSB-3800, 7200, 14250, 21300, 28400
There are six mobile operations announced, looks like a lot more activity
than the last couple of years:
http://www.qsl.net/wvsarc/2009%20WV%20QSO%20Party%20Mobile%20Operations.html
Julius
The July issue of CQ has an article on page 61 entitled
The Joy of Kit Building. I had hoped to see another
article about building an Elecraft kit like they recently
ran, but other than the K1EL kit used as an example in
the article, nothing that applies to Elecraft kit building.
What -is-
Glad to hear that things are going well now.
Sometimes these things are data dependent and timing can play a role
as well.
It is counterintuitive, but success with one type of transfer does not
always imply success in all types. Data transfer testing can be very
diffficult. We have some
Joe:
I may have done you an un-intended disservice.
Just so there is no confusion, this anecdote is supposed to be
somewhat self-deprecating (or did people really think I was going to keep
power on the station until FD?). None of my problems are to be construed so
as to reflect
This may not be what you want Matt, but for small portable radios I use
a two-pack of heavy-duty 6V lantern batteries wired in series. These
are usually right around 5 bux at WallyWorld and last for quite a
while...several extended outings.
I don't remove the plastic wrap holding the two
Hello Joel!
I recently added a digital voice module to my K3. It does everything it is
advertised to do, and does it very well.
One question occurs to me. The off the air recording feature is a real plus
and will be handy. Is there any way to extract a useful digital copy of the
recorded
There are two transistors mounted to the right side panel. The panel is used
as a heat sink and only gets warm. It is operating normally.
73,
N2TK, Tony
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Evert Bakker (PA2KW)
Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty
obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it
stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is
kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a
Ed,
The KAT1 (and most other similar tuners) do have a difficult time
matching to a high impedance. So if you stay away from end fed antennas
that are a multiple of a half wavelength long, the KAT1 should be able
to match it. Similarly, extremely low impedances may be difficult to match.
Ed,
One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad
connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can
allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time.
73,
Don W3FPR
E Neubauer wrote:
Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems
Don ( list),
I started doing some testing tonight and have narrowed it down.
I took out the antenna tuner and tested each band at the 2W setting,
5W 10W setting on the power knob. I have an external watt meter and
dummy load attached. The power didn't match exactly on all the bands
but it was
Here's an update. When the radio wouldn't come on after typing the
email, I was worried. I found out my cigar adapter plug from Radio
Shack has a 2A fuse in it and it was blown. So that would explain why
the radio wouldn't come back on! With my other power wire, I should
be back in business.
Don:
Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try those things, especially for my
attic system. Just a few moments ago, I got rid of my coax feedline altogether
and plugged my antenna wire (long wire to the backyard) directly into the K1,
via a paperclip. Wow, that made a big difference -
Hi gang,
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet Sunday, 6/21/09 at 1800Z. The net will
start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed. I will not be able to be there, but
Mark, K4SO, in Virginia will be doing the net control duties. Let's hope
conditions are better than last week. Have a good one.
I have been going through the manual on the K3 trying different combination
of DSP and IF as well as NR filters trying to reduce atmospheric noise. I
find the noise level to high pitched which fatigues me after an hour or so
of listening. I've listened to the Hear It external DSP filter employed
Hi Ed:
I don't have a K1, but I agree with everything Don said.
Your situation sounds a bit strange though, because I know a number of
people who have K1's who typically have not problem loading all sorts of odd
end fed wires.
You are right to get rid of the coax in almost any situation like
Ron:
Thanks for the information about the counterpoise and feedline. Would using
300 ohm twinlead work better than coax for a kooky attic dipole I constructed?
With RG-6 coax and no ground, it seems to work fairly well on 40 meters.
I have a couple of other antenna questions:
Grounding: I am
When I attempted to download the latest beta using Safari on OS 10.5.7
the process stuck after loading 2 of 3 items. Switching to Firefox was
successful. This happened some time back and I couldn't find the response.
Gary W7TEA
--
View this message in context:
Ed,
Actually counterpoise is a misnomer. When implemented, it is a part
of the antenna system. Yes, a 1/4 wave 'counterpoise' will produce a
low impedance at the shack end, and will tend to keep RF-in-the-shack
problems to a minimum.
A coax feedline for multi-band operation is not the best
Jay,
It really sounds as though you have a problem with the wattmeter in the
KAT2.
Try balancing and calibrating the wattmeter again. If you cannot
achieve a good null with a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load, check T1
and its associated components (T1 for well tinned and soldered leads and
Right now I've got VFO A on 14.030.00 and VFO B on 7.027.00 and I'd like
to transmit on the VFO B freq. Or I'm trying to setup N1MM so that when
I click on the VFO B log section that it switches on split so that I can
TX in the right band. But I keep getting SPL N/A. I even then tapped
A-B
I should also state that I swear this was just working a minute ago and
now I seem to always get SUB N/A unless both VFO's are on the same band.
On Fri, 2009-06-19 at 22:20 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
Right now I've got VFO A on 14.030.00 and VFO B on 7.027.00 and I'd like
to transmit on the VFO
I didn't have any trouble on 4.0.1. But I don't download the files
directly with Safari. If you add a / to the end of the URL, the
Beta directory links as a read-only drive. It's then a simple matter
to copy out the files.
Grant/NQ5T
On Jun 19, 2009, at 11:43 PM, W7TEA wrote:
When
Any positive words on the possibility of doing stereo recording when
using the KRX3?
Sorry I can't be more positive :-(
73,
Lyle KK7P
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