Re: [Elecraft] Right side runs warmer after KRX3 install
100% normal -- not to worry. If the entire panel starts to glow, reduce CW speed. A dull orange seems OK Wayne but smoke from the paddle is hurting my eyes. 73 Gary ZL2iFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K144XV 2M Module Dynamic Range?
I'm interested in this too. I don't recall anyone from Elecraft picking up on this query when it was raised earlier. John G4ZTR -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom-N2YTF Sent: 19 June 2009 05:52 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K144XV 2M Module Dynamic Range? I'd like to know a little more about the K144XV receive performance. The Noise Figure is given as 2 dB, while the external XV144 has a NF typically 0.8 dB. This seems like a significant difference. The XV144 also has a high dynamic range front end - how does the K144XV compare? Neill F5VLD / G4HLX That makes two of us at least Neill.does anyone know about the dynamic range of the k144xv? Tom N2YTF -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K144XV-2M-Module-and-W2-Wattmeter-on-Web-Order-Form-tp2 978114p3117673.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4169 (20090619) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4169 (20090619) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 use with MicroKeyer II
Joe, Thank you kindly. I have downloaded the manual and find it a complex procedure but perhaps all will fall into place. The other sources of information I was unaware of and I am very grateful for your referring me to them. You have done at least one good turn this day. 73 Doug EI2CN -Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] Sent: 19 June 2009 03:43 To: 'Doug Turnbull'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 use with MicroKeyer II Can anyone please direct me to material describing how to use a K3 and microHam MicroKeyer II together. The microHAM microKEYER II manual gives information on setting up and configuring the hardware. There are setup guides for Win-Test and the N3FJP software (AC Log) available from the files area of the microHAM group on Yahoo (http://grous.yahoo.com/group/microham) or located on the CD shipped with all microHAM interfaces. You can download the microHAM manual in advance of receiving your hardware from the web at: http://www.microham.com/Downloads/MK2_English_Manual.pdf 73, ... Joe, W4TV Can anyone please direct me to material describing how to use a K3 and microHam MicroKeyer II together. The MK2 is ordered with cable for the K3 but not yet delivered. I plan to purchase the second RX for the K3 this summer but for the moment I am using a single RX. The software for contesting is going to be WIN-TEST or N3FJP depending on the contest and how the packages work with the MK2.Many thanks for any direction you can give me. For the moment I am not using digital modes but this will come. 73 Doug EI2CN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Right side runs warmer after KRX3 install
One other stupid question... In prep for FD I decided to do some TX tests... I found that the radio starts limiting power output and giving HI CUR messages around 66 to 68C PA TEMP. I recall Eric stating that the rig would be fine to 85C. Is this HI CUR message normal at this range? I'm transmitting into a 50 ohm load that is capable of 100 watts continuous and transmitting at 100 watts. Thanks ~Brett On Thu, 2009-06-18 at 21:46 -0700, wayne burdick wrote: 100% normal -- not to worry. If the entire panel starts to glow, reduce CW speed. 73, Wayne N6KR On Jun 18, 2009, at 9:40 PM, Brett Howard wrote: Is it normal for the right side to run quite a bit warmer after installation of the KRX3. I did a quick google search and no nabble hits came up. I'd assume that the two regulators on the right side are running warmer because of the greater consumption. I assume that when the SUB is off that this will run cooler but haven't tested this yet... ~Brett __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html --- http://www.elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM through microHAM USB CW Keyer
Two direct requests for copies of the following procedure constitute a real flood of interest in this topic (well, in my books anyway). The attached email was the result of me stupidly volunteering my K3 for FD again this year in the same breath that I boasted about the ease with which one could implement K3 rig control and rig keying with logging programs, specifically N1MM. Never having tried to implement rig keying here at my fixed station, that was a mistake on my part. . Looks easy, but not for me. It took me all day with the assistance of Joe, W4TV, and Richard, VE3KI plus a couple of local guys, to keep me focused on the important issues to come up with the following which, as they say, works for me. NOTE: Configuring the K3 is trivial; my challenge was getting everything to talk to each other. I have not yet summoned the courage to close all the programs and shut down the equipment for fear that I will never be able to recreate success. 73, Gary, VE1RGB --- From: n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com] On Subject: [N1MM] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM and microHAM USB CW Keyer Joe, Richard, et al: Let me be quick to point out that what follows may not necessarily be either correct or optimum. There are a couple of settings that are candidates for deletion from the procedure. But I can tell you it does work with K3 #095 V3.11/2.15, microHAM USB CW Keyer #120 with Router 4.0.5, and N1MM V9.3.1. 1. The K3 was connected to the laptop by an Elecraft USB-to-serial adapter cable which, upon first use, was assigned COM Port 12. 2. Using Device Manager (Properties/Port Settings/Advanced), I manually reassigned its default COM Port to a low number that N1MM could handle (COM 7). 3. The microHAM keyer is connected to the laptop with its supplied interface cable from the USB port on the keyer to a vacant USB connector on the laptop. 4. The keyer is also connected to the K3 Key In line by a cable from the phono CW jack on the keyer. 5. The K3 is set to 38,400 Baud and the Config Menu PTT-KEY settings are OFF-OFF. 6. microHAM USB Device Router was used to create a new virtual port. I chose COM 4. This step seriously confused me because the new COM Port showed up in Device Manager, not under Ports (COM LPT) as do virtual ports from LP-PAN bridge, but as a new line item called ELTIMA Virtual Serial Ports. 7. Router Ports settings, top-to-bottom, are: none; none/DTR; none/DTR; COM 4. I do not know why it says that COM4 is Open at 1200 8N1. 8. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is selected to COM 4/none, with the CW box checked, and is set to DTR Always ON; RTS Always OFF. This is the port through which rig keying signals, initiated by the logging program, are generated by the microHAM keyer and sent to the K3. Also, the Winkey box is checked. 9. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is also set to COM 7/Elecraft K3/38400 n81/ DTR-RTS OFF-OFF. COM 7 is the rig control port. 10. N1MM Configurer Winkey Pin 5 is selected to Function PTT. Don't ask why. With N1MM, I now have: 1. Keying via the paddles, speed controlled by the pot; 2. Keying via keyboard, speed controlled by the pot; 3. Messages on the Function keys that I can change under N1MM; 4. Rig control; and 5. Control over keying characteristics via the Router control panel. Here's what I learned: 1. I still do not like computers nor, for that matter, rig keying. 2. This configuration will not work if one does not first turn on the router; The Halifax Amateur Radio Club will be very appreciative of the contributions of those here on the N1MM reflector who pleasantly kept after me until, like the proverbial monkey, I managed to strike a sufficient number of keys and make a sufficient repeated number of mouse clicks that I eventually wrote N1MM K3 Rig Keying for Dummies. I now have the station on battery power in case the mains fail, and I'm working on a plan to get all the hardware, still connected and with all software running, from here and now to Field Day, without every having been shut down. After Field Day, I'll start examining some of the above settings to see whether or not they are relevant, then I am disabling rig keying and going back to contesting by hand, which is where the real fun is for me. Thanks a lot, guys. Really. 73, Gary, VE1RGB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P
Thank you for your help. I'm at work right now, but will do more research this weekend. My friend has had the radio for a couple of weeks and has made contacts on the radio so it mostly seems to work, but his Lo P message appears once in a while and I've never seen it on my K2. I changed the CAL CUR to 3.0 amps and the Hi Current message went away (I tested 40m and 10m). But the Lo P message remained most of the time. Tonight I'll do more testing with the wattmeter and get more information to share. I'll change the CAL CUR to 3.5 amps do the tests you recommend and get back to you. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 12:56 AM, Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Jay, The real answer is it all depends. Since this is a very recent K2 serial number, it may be that this problem has been present since it was built and was the reason that the original builder sold it - that is an unfortunate situation, but it must be considered. First, set your CAL CUR to 3.50 amps and try again. LoP indicates that the K2 is not developing adequate power to enable proper tuning for the KAT2 (it needs 2 watts to tune). Then set the K2 ATU menu to CALP and see if it will do a TUNE into a dummy load - first try at 5 watts power requested, then 10 watts and finally at maximum requested power. Does the HI-CUR message appear at all those power levels? Or only at maximum power? Next, try each band separately (doing the tests as above). Does the HI-CUR message appear on every band? or only some bands? After those tests, set the ATU menu to AUTO and do a TUNE into the dummy load. You should hear some relays click and after the tuner has set its L and C values to match the 50 ohm load, it should exit from TUNE. If all that does not produce satisfactory results, there is something wrong with the K2. To troubleshoot it, the first step is to remove the KAT2 and operate the base K2 directly into a 50 ohm non-inductive dummy load. If it does not produce good power output without HI Cur messages, then there is a problem with the base K2 - likely in the Low Pass Filters or with the T4 output transformer. We can help further if we have more specific information - what bands fail? what bands work? How much power is really produced? 73, Don W3FPR Jay Sissom wrote: Hello, I'm helping a friend who purchased a used K2. The K2 is a serial number 6xxx with a KAT2, KSB2 and KBT2. When tuning with the antenna tuner into a dummy load, sometimes The message Lo P appears on the display. It would also give the Hi Curr message with the current limit set to 2.5A. Does it seem right that the radio would draw that much current when tuning into a dummy load? Any info on this would be appreciated. I'm finishing up the DSP, 160m and KNB2 options for the radio but would like to get this fixed before making changes. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control through microHAM USB CW Ke...
Two keys here (pad pun?) 1. A USBSerial Cable talks to the K3 and N1MM. When you first plug one in, the software may assign the K3 a port number higher than 8. N1MM won't recognize it. You must re-assign an unused port number to the USB that is 8 or less and then use that port number in the N1MM Config Ports menu. To re-assign a port number look under Control PanelSystemDevice ManagerPorts and look for an entry like Prolific USB-Serial Bridge (Com14). Right clickPropertiesPort Settings and choose a lower port number. Alternatively, with the MicroHam router program, you can create a port to use. Select Virtual Port in the blue bar of the MH router screen and then Create. It must unused (check in the Windows Device Manager to see the ports already taken) and be lower than 8. It will appear in Control PanelSystemDevice ManagerPorts as an Eltima Virtual Serial Port. Since the port is created by the MH program, you should start MH before you start N1MM. 2. Keying is done through a second Eltima Virtual Serial Port you create using the MH software. In the N1MM ConfigurePorts menu, you select that port, radio none, check the CW box (because this is the port that will control CW) and hit the set button. On the screen that appears check the box WinKey When you are done, N1MM is using two ports - one for rig control and one for keying. This advice applies to DxLab and I am sure other logging/keying programs as well. I have found computer keying the K3 through the MH devices to be very reliable and accurate. Buck k4ia K3 #101 --- From: n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com] On Subject: [N1MM] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM and microHAM USB CW Keyer Joe, Richard, et al: Let me be quick to point out that what follows may not necessarily be either correct or optimum. There are a couple of settings that are candidates for deletion from the procedure. But I can tell you it does work with K3 #095 V3.11/2.15, microHAM USB CW Keyer #120 with Router 4.0.5, and N1MM V9.3.1. 1. The K3 was connected to the laptop by an Elecraft USB-to-serial adapter cable which, upon first use, was assigned COM Port 12. 2. Using Device Manager (Properties/Port Settings/Advanced), I manually reassigned its default COM Port to a low number that N1MM could handle (COM 7). 3. The microHAM keyer is connected to the laptop with its supplied interface cable from the USB port on the keyer to a vacant USB connector on the laptop. 4. The keyer is also connected to the K3 Key In line by a cable from the phono CW jack on the keyer. 5. The K3 is set to 38,400 Baud and the Config Menu PTT-KEY settings are OFF-OFF. 6. microHAM USB Device Router was used to create a new virtual port. I chose COM 4. This step seriously confused me because the new COM Port showed up in Device Manager, not under Ports (COM LPT) as do virtual ports from LP-PAN bridge, but as a new line item called ELTIMA Virtual Serial Ports. 7. Router Ports settings, top-to-bottom, are: none; none/DTR; none/DTR; COM 4. I do not know why it says that COM4 is Open at 1200 8N1. 8. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is selected to COM 4/none, with the CW box checked, and is set to DTR Always ON; RTS Always OFF. This is the port through which rig keying signals, initiated by the logging program, are generated by the microHAM keyer and sent to the K3. Also, the Winkey box is checked. 9. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is also set to COM 7/Elecraft K3/38400 n81/ DTR-RTS OFF-OFF. COM 7 is the rig control port. 10. N1MM Configurer Winkey Pin 5 is selected to Function PTT. Don't ask why. With N1MM, I now have: 1. Keying via the paddles, speed controlled by the pot; 2. Keying via keyboard, speed controlled by the pot; 3. Messages on the Function keys that I can change under N1MM; 4. Rig control; and 5. Control over keying characteristics via the Router control panel. Here's what I learned: 1. I still do not like computers nor, for that matter, rig keying. 2. This configuration will not work if one does not first turn on the router; The Halifax Amateur Radio Club will be very appreciative of the contributions of those here on the N1MM reflector who pleasantly kept after me until, like the proverbial monkey, I managed to strike a sufficient number of keys and make a sufficient repeated number of mouse clicks that I eventually wrote N1MM K3 Rig Keying for Dummies. I now have the station on battery power in case the mains fail, and I'm working on a plan to get all the hardware, still connected and with all software running, from here and now to Field Day, without every having been shut down. After Field Day, I'll start examining some of the above settings to see whether or not they are relevant, then I am disabling rig keying and going back to contesting by hand, which
Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1
John : Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1 station. If you want 5W you will need a 12V+ pack. If you are willing to settle for about 3w out the K1 will hum along nicely at 9 to 10V. It is quite a miserly rig so you can easily manage a day outing with battery capacity in the range of 2 to 3 Ah. I use a couple of different packs depending on the circumstances. My suggestions : 1) a small sealed lead acid (aka GEL-Cell) battery in the range of 2 to 3 Ah - Walmart also sells a good little charger for SLAs for about $25 called the EverStart Battery Companion (1.5Amp trickle charger). It is actually a 3-stage smart charger perfect for SLAs that are = 2Ah. 2) 9v (actually closer to about 10.5V when fully charged) R/C NiMH battery packs The Radio Control packs you should be able to get at Radio Shack along with the proper charger. Radio Shack usually sells a combo pack with a charger (part 23-432) for about $20. These packs are in the 1500 to 1700 mAh range. If you go this route I suggest you buy a 2nd pack so you have a backup. Another good idea is to cut the leads on the pack and solder appropriately rated pico-fuses on both leads (these look like resistors) then put heat-shrink tubing over them and tape the leads against the body of the pack with electrical tape (the pic-fuses are a bit fragile so you don't want break them). (Hint, these packs also fit inside a FT-817 and make a good cheap internal battery for that rig.) 3) Go with rechargeable AA cells. You can buy 8 and 10 cell holders depending on what voltage you want (note that NiMHs are nominally about 1.2V when fully charged). You can find lots of these at WalMart, Radio Shack etc, along with 4 cell quick chargers. I would go with a reputable name (ie Duracell etc) rather than the no-name ones and try to buy cells that are in the 2000 mAh range. Note that the K1 will tolerate up to about 15V in so you can use a 10 cell holder if you are using NiMH rechargables. In practice I have found that a 10 cell holder with NiMHs will give 13+ V when fully charged which is perfect. For safety reasons, (both yours and the rig) I strongly recommend that you fuse whatever battery solution you decide on and don't forget that you need to be careful with NiMH packs as these batteries can generate a very very high current for a short period of time if shorted out. Needless to say this can result in burns or even an explosion. Best of luck Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB P.S. Another related idea. I standardized my QRP power connections on a 2 pin Molex connector (polarized). Most of my battery packs have a short pigtail with the female version of this Molex and I have a slightly longer length of wire that is fused and has the male Molex on one end and the appropriate coaxial power connector that fits into the K1. This allows me some flexibility in how I power my K1. For instance I have a cigarette lighter plug that has the female Molex so I can use this adaptor to plug my K1 into the cigarette lighter jack in my car if I want to operate from the car. For some of my otherQRP rigs like the ATS3 that have a different power connector I just made up a fused power cord that has the male Molex on it so I can use any of the battery options that I already have for the K1. I found that this modular approach works very well. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] RE SDR - May break in the future (was K3 vs. 7600)
-Original Message- From: Steve, NN4X That is something which I keep very much in mind with radios like the Flex, and the idea of PC-dominated radios in general - really, you're always potentially one Windows update away from breaking the rig. If the company goes out of business, or does not feel like supporting an X-year old, non-current version of their product, you are done. Over and out. -- I'd not thought about that but I think Steve is right on. A hardware or self contained rig will continue to work even if the company goes out of business or the rest of the world around the rig changes. Once it works, it always works. If the company goes away, the rig still works. The true SW radios (Flex, others?) depend on having the right version of Windows. When Windows changes and the flex SW doesn't work, your radio doesn't work. So to keep your old Flex running, you have to keep your old PC running as well. No upgrades. And good luck if your 8 or 10 yr old PC needs to have a part replaced. Now, think about the value of a 20 year old Flex radio. Compare that to the value of a 20 Yr old Drake or Heathkit rig. One is a rig you can put on the air, the other is probably a doorstop. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1
If cost is not an issue, look into A123 battery packs, either thru buddipole or hfprojects, or you could order cells and roll your own. Matt W8ESE On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 7:25 AM, Michael Babineaumbabin...@magma.ca wrote: John : Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1 station. If you want 5W you will need a 12V+ pack. If you are willing to settle for about 3w out the K1 will hum along nicely at 9 to 10V. It is quite a miserly rig so you can easily manage a day outing with battery capacity in the range of 2 to 3 Ah. I use a couple of different packs depending on the circumstances. My suggestions : 1) a small sealed lead acid (aka GEL-Cell) battery in the range of 2 to 3 Ah - Walmart also sells a good little charger for SLAs for about $25 called the EverStart Battery Companion (1.5Amp trickle charger). It is actually a 3-stage smart charger perfect for SLAs that are = 2Ah. 2) 9v (actually closer to about 10.5V when fully charged) R/C NiMH battery packs The Radio Control packs you should be able to get at Radio Shack along with the proper charger. Radio Shack usually sells a combo pack with a charger (part 23-432) for about $20. These packs are in the 1500 to 1700 mAh range. If you go this route I suggest you buy a 2nd pack so you have a backup. Another good idea is to cut the leads on the pack and solder appropriately rated pico-fuses on both leads (these look like resistors) then put heat-shrink tubing over them and tape the leads against the body of the pack with electrical tape (the pic-fuses are a bit fragile so you don't want break them). (Hint, these packs also fit inside a FT-817 and make a good cheap internal battery for that rig.) 3) Go with rechargeable AA cells. You can buy 8 and 10 cell holders depending on what voltage you want (note that NiMHs are nominally about 1.2V when fully charged). You can find lots of these at WalMart, Radio Shack etc, along with 4 cell quick chargers. I would go with a reputable name (ie Duracell etc) rather than the no-name ones and try to buy cells that are in the 2000 mAh range. Note that the K1 will tolerate up to about 15V in so you can use a 10 cell holder if you are using NiMH rechargables. In practice I have found that a 10 cell holder with NiMHs will give 13+ V when fully charged which is perfect. For safety reasons, (both yours and the rig) I strongly recommend that you fuse whatever battery solution you decide on and don't forget that you need to be careful with NiMH packs as these batteries can generate a very very high current for a short period of time if shorted out. Needless to say this can result in burns or even an explosion. Best of luck Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB P.S. Another related idea. I standardized my QRP power connections on a 2 pin Molex connector (polarized). Most of my battery packs have a short pigtail with the female version of this Molex and I have a slightly longer length of wire that is fused and has the male Molex on one end and the appropriate coaxial power connector that fits into the K1. This allows me some flexibility in how I power my K1. For instance I have a cigarette lighter plug that has the female Molex so I can use this adaptor to plug my K1 into the cigarette lighter jack in my car if I want to operate from the car. For some of my otherQRP rigs like the ATS3 that have a different power connector I just made up a fused power cord that has the male Molex on it so I can use any of the battery options that I already have for the K1. I found that this modular approach works very well. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1
Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1 station. For several years, I've used various 12VDC gel cells with reasonably good success. To better deal with the voltage drop issue over the course of long weekend operations, I've switched to a +14.4VDC portable battery pack from Bescor. http://www.bescor.com/Export8.htm My K1 and other QRP rigs perform better over the long-term with the slightly elevated voltage. Another option is to use a 12VDC gel cell with a DC-DC switching converter as a battery booster to keep battery voltage at or above 12V as the battery terminal voltage falls below 12V. I've not been too impressed with the RFI immunity from DC-DC converters, so that was not a viable option for me. I'm sure there are some boosters that can be purchased with good RFI abatement but for me, that takes too much time in testing and evaluating. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1
Before you reach a decision on battery packs, be sure to read Wayne's Tech Note at http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm Basically, the principle of impedance matching applies to both input and output of a rig. A DC input mismatch results in waste heat, which is usually not a problem unless the DC is in limited supply, e.g., from a battery. My particular K1 tends to drift a bit more when its regulators have to dissipate extra DC input voltage as heat. The second regulators in the K1 put out about 6.3V, so an input of 14.3V results in twice as much wasted voltage in the regulators as an input of 10.3V, i.e., four times as much wasted heat to cause more drift. For battery supplies, I prefer packs of 8 AA NiMH cells. Alternatively, I use a variable AC supply which I set to 10V (plus an extra 0.3V that doesn't make it to the K1's voltmeter). Either of these supplies matches my preferred 4W output setting fairly well, according to Wayne's note. 73, Paul W8TM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Load fails
Dick, Sorry, I gave you the error message when I tried to go back to 3.14. The proper files seem to be in each folder. When I try to load 3.19, I get: - FPF firmware file hfpf0101.hex verified Erasing flash memory Sending firmware file hfpf0101.hex to FPF Send FPF firmware failed at load address x0300 GetLastError returns 0xe212 NACK retry limit has been exhausted state 30 FPF firmware load failed Files in my 3.19 folder: DTBL0009.HEX HAUX0217.HEX HDSP0217.HEX hfpf0101.hex hfwnotes.rtf hmcu0319.hex Files in my 3.14 folder: DTBL0009.HEX HAUX0216.HEX HDSP0216.HEX hfpf0100.hex hfwnotes.rtf hmcu0314.hex Additional info -- this morning one attempt did get past the FPF load although there were some retry and fill messsages. The load then failed on DSP2: - DSP2 firmware file TBOOT7.HEX verified DSP2 firmware file HAUX0217.HEX verified DSP2 firmware file DTBL0009.HEX verified Sending firmware file TBOOT7.HEX to DSP2 GetLastError returns 0xe213 K3 is not responding state 30 DSP2 firmware load failed - I retried and did not get past the FPF load. Should I contact K3 support? 73, Paul K5ESW What files are in your firmware folder that contains MCU revision 3.19? It should have hfpf0101.hex as well as hmcu0319.hex, hdsp0217.hex, haux0217.hex, dtbl0009.hex and tboot7.hex. The fact that your error message says it's trying to load hfpf0100 (.hex) suggests that you've got hmcu0319.hex and hfpf0100.hex but not hfpf0101.hex in the firmware folder you're loading from. You need the most recent hfpf0101.hex in the same firmware folder that you are loading MCU version 3.19 from. This is what I mean by mixing. The beta firmware zip firmware file contains a complete set of firmware files. All those files need to be in the firmware folder you're loading from. Dick, K6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1
What about bringing along a couple of diodes to use externally to drop the excess voltage until your supply batteries have depleated a bit. Eliminate them one at a time as the voltage drops. Same result of having the longevity of the higher voltage supply and no additional strain on the K1. JMHO (not a K1 owner), 73, de Jim KG0KP - Original Message - From: Paul Kirley pkir...@fuse.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 8:37 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1 Before you reach a decision on battery packs, be sure to read Wayne's Tech Note at http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm Basically, the principle of impedance matching applies to both input and output of a rig. A DC input mismatch results in waste heat, which is usually not a problem unless the DC is in limited supply, e.g., from a battery. My particular K1 tends to drift a bit more when its regulators have to dissipate extra DC input voltage as heat. The second regulators in the K1 put out about 6.3V, so an input of 14.3V results in twice as much wasted voltage in the regulators as an input of 10.3V, i.e., four times as much wasted heat to cause more drift. For battery supplies, I prefer packs of 8 AA NiMH cells. Alternatively, I use a variable AC supply which I set to 10V (plus an extra 0.3V that doesn't make it to the K1's voltmeter). Either of these supplies matches my preferred 4W output setting fairly well, according to Wayne's note. 73, Paul W8TM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Hi Current K2
I am embarrassed to say but I have a high current indication on nearly all bands during Tx. (new build and I thought I was being so so careful). The Rec. draws 240 ma. at 12.4 volts. Does change slightly with option changes. Attempted transmitter Tune up Test Part Three page 77 has the following results: 4.045 Mhz - Hi Cur LCD to P19 7.099 Mhz - Hi Cur LCD to P19 10.00 Mhz - Hi Cur LCD to P18 14.060 Mhz Hi Cur LCD to P16 18.090 Mhz NO Hi Cur LCD to P.3 21.054 MHZ No Hi Cur LCD to P.8 25.012 MhzNO Hi Cur LCD to P.1 Power set to 2W and 1 W with same indication. Current limit set to 2.5A. Voltage on C of Q8 and Q7 at 12.4 Vdc. Res, measurements page 74 all within limits. Changed power supply, when I noticed voltage drop and high current reading of 5 A. No change with known good supply. Hints requested before I tear something. Best regards Dick AD1G __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1
Before you reach a decision on battery packs, be sure to read Wayne's Tech Note at http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/k1_battery_op.htm That's a good summary of power supply optimization for the K1. According to Wayne's Note, the most efficient use of battery voltage becomes a function of one's output power target value - ranging from near 14VDC for full-rated K1 output to a bit less than 10VDC for about 3 watts. Depending on the discharge characteristics of the battery, I imagine most K1 users would be quite happy starting at a commonly available 12V and allowing it to drop down to about 9VDC at the end of portable operations or before connecting a spare battery to continue. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 KDSP2 For Sale
Price $200.00 including shipping to usa only. Please reply directly to me. Thanks, Bill, AA1O __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KRX3 ANT input flexibility
I purchased the KRX3 to monitor 6M while the radio is in use on other bands I connect a 6M omni antenna to the KRX3 and use the KAT3's #2 antenna to feed a 6M array when the K3 is switched to 6M. The resulting diversity receive -is- impressive! The as-designed choices to select what antenna is routed to the KRX3 is limited (IMHO) and here's my method of achieving more flexibility in using the KRX3: The BNC(F) to TMP(M) cable is installed in the normal manner and is routed to the area atop the rear of the KRX3. The cable from the KAT3 tuner is also routed to the same area. I've made a short TMP(M) to TMP(F) extension cable to run from the KRX3's TMP(F) input connector to the same area atop the KRX3. This allows me maximum flexibility in what source is fed to the KRX3's antenna input by just removing the K3's top cover and swapping connections to suit my need. The board-mounted TMP(F) jacks are somewhat fragile and if one attempts to sneak the extension cable into the KRX3's jack from above and the shell will likely be expanded, resulting in a loose fit. To keep stress on the jack to a minimum, I secure the extension cable to the knurled nut on the top of the KRX3. It's -much- easier to make the connection to the KRX3 input jack if the KIO3 panel is removed to allow easy access to the rear of the KRX3. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Guglielmo Marconi (Our father who art in Radio!) BLESS HIM!
Hey guys I ran across the site on Facebook and it's really neat!!! Though the program is in Italian you get the IDEA!!! Knowledge and Friendship thru TELECOMMUNICATIONS! JIM/nn6ee *** http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1070626013595 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Right side runs warmer after KRX3 install
Hello Brett, Your question: Is it normal for the right side to run quite a bit warmer after installation of the KRX3. I did notice the same effect. I asked support and they confirmed it as something normal. (I didn't expect that increase in heat production as well). 73's, Evert PA2KW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 ANT input flexibility
Hi Ken! How about this option. TMP cable from KRX3 to a BNC on the back of the radio (Use the hole for the external ref). Connect this to the common position of an external two- position switch. Then run a TMP cable from the KAT3 where the subRX connects to the BNC for the AUX RF. Connect this to one of the two positions on the switch. Now connect your 6M Omni receive antenna to the second input. Now you can switch between the unused KAT3 input and the Omni antenna you would nomally keep connected to the AUX RF input without having to remove the cover. Better yet...you can get an automatic switch and use one of the DIGOUT lines to do the switching when 6M is selected. I will probably do something similar. I also use an array solutions sixpack switch. ANT1 feeds one side and ANT2 feeds the other. This way I can select any of my antennas for either antenna input. I keep the Main antenna set to auto switch with the KRC2 and the ANT2 position I manually switch to I can try different combinations. - 73, Greg - AB7R Whidbey Island WA NA-065 On Fri Jun 19 8:04 , 'Ken Kopp' k...@rfwave.net sent: I purchased the KRX3 to monitor 6M while the radio is in use on other bands I connect a 6M omni antenna to the KRX3 and use the KAT3's #2 antenna to feed a 6M array when the K3 is switched to 6M. The resulting diversity receive -is- impressive! The as-designed choices to select what antenna is routed to the KRX3 is limited (IMHO) and here's my method of achieving more flexibility in using the KRX3: The BNC(F) to TMP(M) cable is installed in the normal manner and is routed to the area atop the rear of the KRX3. The cable from the KAT3 tuner is also routed to the same area. I've made a short TMP(M) to TMP(F) extension cable to run from the KRX3's TMP(F) input connector to the same area atop the KRX3. This allows me maximum flexibility in what source is fed to the KRX3's antenna input by just removing the K3's top cover and swapping connections to suit my need. The board-mounted TMP(F) jacks are somewhat fragile and if one attempts to sneak the extension cable into the KRX3's jack from above and the shell will likely be expanded, resulting in a loose fit. To keep stress on the jack to a minimum, I secure the extension cable to the knurled nut on the top of the KRX3. It's -much- easier to make the connection to the KRX3 input jack if the KIO3 panel is removed to allow easy access to the rear of the KRX3. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net','','','')Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Hi Current K2
First question is - why are you using 4.045 MHz - that is outside the ham band. Use 3.750 MHz instead. Similarly, 10.00 MHz should be in the range of 10.100 to 10.150 MHz. Also 25.012 is not a good frequency either, use 24.90 That is not likely to change your results with the HI-Cur display, but just a comment. Your receive current draw is about normal - no problem there. Set CAL CUR to 3.50 amps and try again with the power set to 5 watts. If the power goes up to a high value (much above 5 watts), there is a problem with the power control circuits. The lack of decent power output on 17 meters and up may be an entirely different problem. Normally Hi-Cur combined with low power output indicates a problem in the Low Pass Filter or T4. Please measure the voltage at the base of Q7 and Q8 during a TUNE. It should be 0.6 to 0.63 volts. 73, Don W3FPR richard gilley wrote: I am embarrassed to say but I have a high current indication on nearly all bands during Tx. (new build and I thought I was being so so careful). The Rec. draws 240 ma. at 12.4 volts. Does change slightly with option changes. Attempted transmitter Tune up Test Part Three page 77 has the following results: 4.045 Mhz - Hi Cur LCD to P19 7.099 Mhz - Hi Cur LCD to P19 10.00 Mhz - Hi Cur LCD to P18 14.060 Mhz Hi Cur LCD to P16 18.090 Mhz NO Hi Cur LCD to P.3 21.054 MHZ No Hi Cur LCD to P.8 25.012 MhzNO Hi Cur LCD to P.1 Power set to 2W and 1 W with same indication. Current limit set to 2.5A. Voltage on C of Q8 and Q7 at 12.4 Vdc. Res, measurements page 74 all within limits. Changed power supply, when I noticed voltage drop and high current reading of 5 A. No change with known good supply. Hints requested before I tear something. Best regards Dick AD1G __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM through microHAM USBCW Keyer
This procedure essentially uses the microHAM CW Keyer as a stand alone WinKey keyer. It completely fails to make use of the CAT or PTT interface in the microHAM Keyer. The appropriate configuration for microHAM CW keyer and most popular software packages (including N1MM Logger) may be downloaded from the files area of the microHAM list on Yahoo (http://groups.yahoo.com/groups/microHAM). microHAM users may also obtain all of the set-up files through the download documents item in Router's Help menu. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary, VE1RGB Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 7:25 AM To: 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM through microHAM USBCW Keyer Two direct requests for copies of the following procedure constitute a real flood of interest in this topic (well, in my books anyway). The attached email was the result of me stupidly volunteering my K3 for FD again this year in the same breath that I boasted about the ease with which one could implement K3 rig control and rig keying with logging programs, specifically N1MM. Never having tried to implement rig keying here at my fixed station, that was a mistake on my part. . Looks easy, but not for me. It took me all day with the assistance of Joe, W4TV, and Richard, VE3KI plus a couple of local guys, to keep me focused on the important issues to come up with the following which, as they say, works for me. NOTE: Configuring the K3 is trivial; my challenge was getting everything to talk to each other. I have not yet summoned the courage to close all the programs and shut down the equipment for fear that I will never be able to recreate success. 73, Gary, VE1RGB -- -- --- From: n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com] On Subject: [N1MM] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM and microHAM USB CW Keyer Joe, Richard, et al: Let me be quick to point out that what follows may not necessarily be either correct or optimum. There are a couple of settings that are candidates for deletion from the procedure. But I can tell you it does work with K3 #095 V3.11/2.15, microHAM USB CW Keyer #120 with Router 4.0.5, and N1MM V9.3.1. 1. The K3 was connected to the laptop by an Elecraft USB-to-serial adapter cable which, upon first use, was assigned COM Port 12. 2. Using Device Manager (Properties/Port Settings/Advanced), I manually reassigned its default COM Port to a low number that N1MM could handle (COM 7). 3. The microHAM keyer is connected to the laptop with its supplied interface cable from the USB port on the keyer to a vacant USB connector on the laptop. 4. The keyer is also connected to the K3 Key In line by a cable from the phono CW jack on the keyer. 5. The K3 is set to 38,400 Baud and the Config Menu PTT-KEY settings are OFF-OFF. 6. microHAM USB Device Router was used to create a new virtual port. I chose COM 4. This step seriously confused me because the new COM Port showed up in Device Manager, not under Ports (COM LPT) as do virtual ports from LP-PAN bridge, but as a new line item called ELTIMA Virtual Serial Ports. 7. Router Ports settings, top-to-bottom, are: none; none/DTR; none/DTR; COM 4. I do not know why it says that COM4 is Open at 1200 8N1. 8. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is selected to COM 4/none, with the CW box checked, and is set to DTR Always ON; RTS Always OFF. This is the port through which rig keying signals, initiated by the logging program, are generated by the microHAM keyer and sent to the K3. Also, the Winkey box is checked. 9. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is also set to COM 7/Elecraft K3/38400 n81/ DTR-RTS OFF-OFF. COM 7 is the rig control port. 10. N1MM Configurer Winkey Pin 5 is selected to Function PTT. Don't ask why. With N1MM, I now have: 1. Keying via the paddles, speed controlled by the pot; 2. Keying via keyboard, speed controlled by the pot; 3. Messages on the Function keys that I can change under N1MM; 4. Rig control; and 5. Control over keying characteristics via the Router control panel. Here's what I learned: 1. I still do not like computers nor, for that matter, rig keying. 2. This configuration will not work if one does not first turn on the router; The Halifax Amateur Radio Club will be very appreciative of the contributions of those here on the N1MM reflector who pleasantly kept after me until, like the proverbial monkey, I managed to strike a sufficient number of keys and make a sufficient repeated number of mouse clicks that I eventually wrote N1MM K3 Rig Keying for Dummies. I now have the station on battery power in case the mains
[Elecraft] K3 -- DVR question
I recently added a digital voice module to my K3. It does everything it is advertised to do, and does it very well. One question occurs to me. The off the air recording feature is a real plus and will be handy. Is there any way to extract a useful digital copy of the recorded audio in a way that would be downloadable to the connected PC and then stored in an easily recoverable way? I know the audio could be resampled and stored using a sound card and PC software, but that would add another A/D conversion. It would be nice to be able to send someone the original data as a PC file of the way they sound, rather than sending it over the air. Regards, Joel Joel R. Hallas, W1ZR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying, etc - A Caution
Now that he has seen what I have done, Joe W4TV tells me that this is an incorrect configuration because it completely bypasses the things you get from MH Keyer, like CAT and PTT. Of course he is right. What I have not made clear to everyone is that my solution is specific to our Halifax Amateur Radio Club Field Day 2009 CW tent. It's a repeat of the configuration we had used, very successfully, with my K3 and Writelog the year before. Only this year, same K3 #95 but new contesting software being used by skilled N1MM/CW ops. We don't need anything out of MH Keyer or the system other than its stable rig keying capability and feedback on band changes from the radio. So, my solution is specific to that situation, no more/no less and, as I have pointed out elsewhere, a one-off favour to the Halifax Amateur Radio Club assembled from what I had available to me. Since nothing has gone up in smoke, I'm kinda' proud of it:) Plse all be QRV for VE1FQ. This is our new AR station and there will two firsts this year: first time HARC has ever used its new station in a contesting environment. This will be a deliberate exercise in due diligence by proving out the station because of its strategic value to the community. It will also be the first time we will have had, because our new facilities have allowed for the antenna, the use of top band in a FD. FD is a deadly serious business here. We will be in the F class because our station has been designated by our local EM Organization that we were to act as their official back-up communications site while theirs is down for renovation. This has been blessed by ARRL. Summary: Remember VE1FQ; and, caveat emptor. 73, Gary, VE1RGB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Load fails
Dick, Thanks. You were correct about the problem. I have a short (3 ft) extender cable connected to the KUSB cable. The junction between the two was slightly loose. I tightened it and loaded OK. I suspected the K3 because the MCU load always worked. It must be that the FPF load exercised the data lines differently enough to show up the problem. Thanks to you and others for the help. 73, Paul K5ESW It sounds like you can eventually load, although there is evidence of substantial communications corruption. What sort of cable do you use between the PC and the K3? USB? Hubs involved? Is it screwed down at the K3 end? If you have alternate cables available, could you try one of those? If you have several USB ports on your computer, could you try a different one? Dick, K6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] N8Q/m West Virginia QSO Party
A slight change, we'll follow the posted Phone frequency list: SSB-3800, 7200, 14250, 21300, 28400 There are six mobile operations announced, looks like a lot more activity than the last couple of years: http://www.qsl.net/wvsarc/2009%20WV%20QSO%20Party%20Mobile%20Operations.html Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote: Steve and all, This is where you might look for us: CW 3540, 7040, 14040, 21040, 28040 SSB3820, 7240, 14280, 21390, 28390 Probably plus 10KHz or so depending on QRM. Storms are predicted for WV all weekend and with SF running around 68, looks like 20 may be the band. We'll certainly try 80 and 40 in each county for close in folks. We'll spend more time in the first five counties as we may be the only ones putting them on. The northern counties will be better covered earlier in the contest. 73, Julius Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party: Sunday, 6 Sept 2009 http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 --- On Wed, 6/17/09, Stephen W. Kercel kerc...@suscom-maine.net wrote: From: Stephen W. Kercel kerc...@suscom-maine.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N8Q/m West Virginia QSO Party To: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wednesday, June 17, 2009, 10:48 AM Julius: Any 10 meter CW contemplated? In recent weeks 10 meters is open between southern Appalachia and W1/W2 most evenings between 2300 and 2400Z (and maybe other times as well). 73, Steve AA4AK/1 Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote: Hello All, We will be running QRP mobile in the WVQP this weekend with K3 #1875. The first few counties may be a bit challenging due to the topography, so bear with us. N8Q/m will be running as follows: Wayne Mingo Logan Boone Lincoln Kanawha (may not stop for CW) Jackson (same as above) Wood Wirt Ritchie (?) Pleasants Tyler Wetzel CW and SSB, hopefully to Pleasants County, where I drop Rita off and I run alone to the end. Rita will op SSB (she's only made a couple QSOs prior to this) while I drive (stick shift). Please be gentle and we may be able to get her to play again and even get a license! ;o) There are at least three other mobiles running, so it should be a good time for all. 72, Julius - Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 Elecraft K3 #1875 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 Elecraft K3#1875 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/N8Q-m-West-Virginia-QSO-Party-tp3092245p3121358.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT - CQ Magazine article
The July issue of CQ has an article on page 61 entitled The Joy of Kit Building. I had hoped to see another article about building an Elecraft kit like they recently ran, but other than the K1EL kit used as an example in the article, nothing that applies to Elecraft kit building. What -is- shocking is the Weller gun depicted in the photos and the lack of caution about proper care of IC's during the process. I doubt if there are any (?) Elecraft kit builders that would use the practices suggested in the article, but The article shouldn't have made it past the editor's desk. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Load fails
Glad to hear that things are going well now. Sometimes these things are data dependent and timing can play a role as well. It is counterintuitive, but success with one type of transfer does not always imply success in all types. Data transfer testing can be very diffficult. We have some algorithmic plans that may improve this over time, but if the data is getting scrambled we're doing well to just reliably detect it! Enjoy... 73 de Dick, K6KR Sent from my iPhone On Jun 19, 2009, at 11:17 AM, Paul Ferguson p...@paulferguson.us wrote: Dick, Thanks. You were correct about the problem. I have a short (3 ft) extender cable connected to the KUSB cable. The junction between the two was slightly loose. I tightened it and loaded OK. I suspected the K3 because the MCU load always worked. It must be that the FPF load exercised the data lines differently enough to show up the problem. Thanks to you and others for the help. 73, Paul K5ESW It sounds like you can eventually load, although there is evidence of substantial communications corruption. What sort of cable do you use between the PC and the K3? USB? Hubs involved? Is it screwed down at the K3 end? If you have alternate cables available, could you try one of those? If you have several USB ports on your computer, could you try a different one? Dick, K6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM through microHAM USBCW Keyer
Joe: I may have done you an un-intended disservice. Just so there is no confusion, this anecdote is supposed to be somewhat self-deprecating (or did people really think I was going to keep power on the station until FD?). None of my problems are to be construed so as to reflect badly on any of the tools I used in that exercise. Rather, it was own lack of even the most basic understanding of what I was doing or lack of understanding of the language in that environment that lead me to go around in circles. Also, if you are playing with a system dependent upon virtual ports, you have to learn to open the program that creates them first. That sort of just basic stuff. I don't like computers. It's a complex tool. It was my first time. Lots of excuses. Easy, now that I understand how it works. With the benefit of hind-sight, perhaps I shouldn't have put materiel into the public realm without further clarification, since I wasn't using MH Keyer to its full advantage or traditional role. But it does work great the way it's being used. 73, Gary, VE1RGB -Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] Sent: June 19, 2009 1:44 PM To: 'Gary, VE1RGB'; 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM through microHAM USBCW Keyer This procedure essentially uses the microHAM CW Keyer as a stand alone WinKey keyer. It completely fails to make use of the CAT or PTT interface in the microHAM Keyer. The appropriate configuration for microHAM CW keyer and most popular software packages (including N1MM Logger) may be downloaded from the files area of the microHAM list on Yahoo (http://groups.yahoo.com/groups/microHAM). microHAM users may also obtain all of the set-up files through the download documents item in Router's Help menu. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary, VE1RGB Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 7:25 AM To: 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM through microHAM USBCW Keyer Two direct requests for copies of the following procedure constitute a real flood of interest in this topic (well, in my books anyway). The attached email was the result of me stupidly volunteering my K3 for FD again this year in the same breath that I boasted about the ease with which one could implement K3 rig control and rig keying with logging programs, specifically N1MM. Never having tried to implement rig keying here at my fixed station, that was a mistake on my part. . Looks easy, but not for me. It took me all day with the assistance of Joe, W4TV, and Richard, VE3KI plus a couple of local guys, to keep me focused on the important issues to come up with the following which, as they say, works for me. NOTE: Configuring the K3 is trivial; my challenge was getting everything to talk to each other. I have not yet summoned the courage to close all the programs and shut down the equipment for fear that I will never be able to recreate success. 73, Gary, VE1RGB -- -- --- From: n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:n1mmlog...@yahoogroups.com] On Subject: [N1MM] K3 Rig Keying/Rig Control with N1MM and microHAM USB CW Keyer Joe, Richard, et al: Let me be quick to point out that what follows may not necessarily be either correct or optimum. There are a couple of settings that are candidates for deletion from the procedure. But I can tell you it does work with K3 #095 V3.11/2.15, microHAM USB CW Keyer #120 with Router 4.0.5, and N1MM V9.3.1. 1. The K3 was connected to the laptop by an Elecraft USB-to-serial adapter cable which, upon first use, was assigned COM Port 12. 2. Using Device Manager (Properties/Port Settings/Advanced), I manually reassigned its default COM Port to a low number that N1MM could handle (COM 7). 3. The microHAM keyer is connected to the laptop with its supplied interface cable from the USB port on the keyer to a vacant USB connector on the laptop. 4. The keyer is also connected to the K3 Key In line by a cable from the phono CW jack on the keyer. 5. The K3 is set to 38,400 Baud and the Config Menu PTT-KEY settings are OFF-OFF. 6. microHAM USB Device Router was used to create a new virtual port. I chose COM 4. This step seriously confused me because the new COM Port showed up in Device Manager, not under Ports (COM LPT) as do virtual ports from LP-PAN bridge, but as a new line item called ELTIMA Virtual Serial Ports. 7. Router Ports settings, top-to-bottom, are: none; none/DTR; none/DTR; COM 4. I do not know why it says that COM4 is Open at 1200 8N1. 8. N1MM Configurer/Hardware is selected to COM 4/none, with the CW
Re: [Elecraft] Portable Bat Packs
This may not be what you want Matt, but for small portable radios I use a two-pack of heavy-duty 6V lantern batteries wired in series. These are usually right around 5 bux at WallyWorld and last for quite a while...several extended outings. I don't remove the plastic wrap holding the two batteries together...just melt the wrap around the spring terminals with the soldering iron(so it doesn't split). Then I cut the springs down to a couple of turns and solder the wires/jumper on using my fav connector. For the finale...wrap the whole works up in a layer or two of...you know it...duct tape...to protect the exposed terminals and make a very solid package. You probably shouldn't try going thru airport security with this if you don't have a little extra time... When the batteries drop below usefulness I simply remove the tape/wiring harness and start over again. Fitzie N0MF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- DVR question
Hello Joel! I recently added a digital voice module to my K3. It does everything it is advertised to do, and does it very well. One question occurs to me. The off the air recording feature is a real plus and will be handy. Is there any way to extract a useful digital copy of the recorded audio in a way that would be downloadable to the connected PC and then stored in an easily recoverable way? I am not hopeful this can be done on a practical basis. The logic would be pretty convoluted. We'd have to snatch a small sample from the DVR Flash, then buffer it in the DSP, then push it out the serial port to a PC, which would need an application written to slurp up the RS232 data. After many iterations we could get the data across. The PC would then need a program to convert the data into some sort of recognizable, raw samples. I suspect a .WAV file is the most likely wrapper that could then be put around it. Thus, it requires MCU code for the K3, plus DSP code, plus a PC program. I know the audio could be resampled and stored using a sound card and PC software, but that would add another A/D conversion. It would be nice to be able to send someone the original data as a PC file of the way they sound, rather than sending it over the air. I suspect resampling would add very little noise compared to the radio link. I suspect this is the best bet, again on a practical basis. Sorry I can't be more positive :-( 73, Lyle KK7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Right side runs warmer after KRX3 install
There are two transistors mounted to the right side panel. The panel is used as a heat sink and only gets warm. It is operating normally. 73, N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Evert Bakker (PA2KW) Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 11:13 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Right side runs warmer after KRX3 install Hello Brett, Your question: Is it normal for the right side to run quite a bit warmer after installation of the KRX3. I did notice the same effect. I asked support and they confirmed it as something normal. (I didn't expect that increase in heat production as well). 73's, Evert PA2KW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Ed, The KAT1 (and most other similar tuners) do have a difficult time matching to a high impedance. So if you stay away from end fed antennas that are a multiple of a half wavelength long, the KAT1 should be able to match it. Similarly, extremely low impedances may be difficult to match. You might try adding or subtracting some length to your feedline. I would suggest starting with a 1/8 wavelength at the frequency that is giving difficulty. Try to get the SWR down to 2:1 or less. While the K1 probably will not be damaged, the power output will go down dramatically with a larger mismatch. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Ed, One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P
Don ( list), I started doing some testing tonight and have narrowed it down. I took out the antenna tuner and tested each band at the 2W setting, 5W 10W setting on the power knob. I have an external watt meter and dummy load attached. The power didn't match exactly on all the bands but it was fairly close (between 1.9W - 3.5W on 2W setting, 4.9 - 7W on 5W setting and 9W - 10W on the 10W setting). My Oak Hill WM2 meter only goes up to 10W. Then I re-installed the antenna tuner and started the test again. I connected to Ant 1 and had the ANT setting set to CALS. On 28060 the 2W setting measured 2W on the meter but gave an SWR of 1.4. At 5W it was SWR 1.5 and at 10W it was SWR 3. The other bands were similar. When I got to 21060 at 10W, the display said Hi Cur then showed an SWR of 3. At 10106 with 10W, it also said Hi Cur then the radio shut down and wouldn't come back on. I don't smell smoke or anything so I'm assuming the fuse reset and I'll need to wait for it to cool down. So it is definitely a problem with the antenna tuner. I think this has already identified a problem and I shouldn't keep going with this test. I'll take the antenna tuner out of the lid and look at it in more detail. But of course, any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 12:56 AM, Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Jay, The real answer is it all depends. Since this is a very recent K2 serial number, it may be that this problem has been present since it was built and was the reason that the original builder sold it - that is an unfortunate situation, but it must be considered. First, set your CAL CUR to 3.50 amps and try again. LoP indicates that the K2 is not developing adequate power to enable proper tuning for the KAT2 (it needs 2 watts to tune). Then set the K2 ATU menu to CALP and see if it will do a TUNE into a dummy load - first try at 5 watts power requested, then 10 watts and finally at maximum requested power. Does the HI-CUR message appear at all those power levels? Or only at maximum power? Next, try each band separately (doing the tests as above). Does the HI-CUR message appear on every band? or only some bands? After those tests, set the ATU menu to AUTO and do a TUNE into the dummy load. You should hear some relays click and after the tuner has set its L and C values to match the 50 ohm load, it should exit from TUNE. If all that does not produce satisfactory results, there is something wrong with the K2. To troubleshoot it, the first step is to remove the KAT2 and operate the base K2 directly into a 50 ohm non-inductive dummy load. If it does not produce good power output without HI Cur messages, then there is a problem with the base K2 - likely in the Low Pass Filters or with the T4 output transformer. We can help further if we have more specific information - what bands fail? what bands work? How much power is really produced? 73, Don W3FPR Jay Sissom wrote: Hello, I'm helping a friend who purchased a used K2. The K2 is a serial number 6xxx with a KAT2, KSB2 and KBT2. When tuning with the antenna tuner into a dummy load, sometimes The message Lo P appears on the display. It would also give the Hi Curr message with the current limit set to 2.5A. Does it seem right that the radio would draw that much current when tuning into a dummy load? Any info on this would be appreciated. I'm finishing up the DSP, 160m and KNB2 options for the radio but would like to get this fixed before making changes. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P
Here's an update. When the radio wouldn't come on after typing the email, I was worried. I found out my cigar adapter plug from Radio Shack has a 2A fuse in it and it was blown. So that would explain why the radio wouldn't come back on! With my other power wire, I should be back in business. 73 Jay W9IUF On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 9:08 PM, Jay Sissomjsis...@gmail.com wrote: Don ( list), I started doing some testing tonight and have narrowed it down. I took out the antenna tuner and tested each band at the 2W setting, 5W 10W setting on the power knob. I have an external watt meter and dummy load attached. The power didn't match exactly on all the bands but it was fairly close (between 1.9W - 3.5W on 2W setting, 4.9 - 7W on 5W setting and 9W - 10W on the 10W setting). My Oak Hill WM2 meter only goes up to 10W. Then I re-installed the antenna tuner and started the test again. I connected to Ant 1 and had the ANT setting set to CALS. On 28060 the 2W setting measured 2W on the meter but gave an SWR of 1.4. At 5W it was SWR 1.5 and at 10W it was SWR 3. The other bands were similar. When I got to 21060 at 10W, the display said Hi Cur then showed an SWR of 3. At 10106 with 10W, it also said Hi Cur then the radio shut down and wouldn't come back on. I don't smell smoke or anything so I'm assuming the fuse reset and I'll need to wait for it to cool down. So it is definitely a problem with the antenna tuner. I think this has already identified a problem and I shouldn't keep going with this test. I'll take the antenna tuner out of the lid and look at it in more detail. But of course, any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 12:56 AM, Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Jay, The real answer is it all depends. Since this is a very recent K2 serial number, it may be that this problem has been present since it was built and was the reason that the original builder sold it - that is an unfortunate situation, but it must be considered. First, set your CAL CUR to 3.50 amps and try again. LoP indicates that the K2 is not developing adequate power to enable proper tuning for the KAT2 (it needs 2 watts to tune). Then set the K2 ATU menu to CALP and see if it will do a TUNE into a dummy load - first try at 5 watts power requested, then 10 watts and finally at maximum requested power. Does the HI-CUR message appear at all those power levels? Or only at maximum power? Next, try each band separately (doing the tests as above). Does the HI-CUR message appear on every band? or only some bands? After those tests, set the ATU menu to AUTO and do a TUNE into the dummy load. You should hear some relays click and after the tuner has set its L and C values to match the 50 ohm load, it should exit from TUNE. If all that does not produce satisfactory results, there is something wrong with the K2. To troubleshoot it, the first step is to remove the KAT2 and operate the base K2 directly into a 50 ohm non-inductive dummy load. If it does not produce good power output without HI Cur messages, then there is a problem with the base K2 - likely in the Low Pass Filters or with the T4 output transformer. We can help further if we have more specific information - what bands fail? what bands work? How much power is really produced? 73, Don W3FPR Jay Sissom wrote: Hello, I'm helping a friend who purchased a used K2. The K2 is a serial number 6xxx with a KAT2, KSB2 and KBT2. When tuning with the antenna tuner into a dummy load, sometimes The message Lo P appears on the display. It would also give the Hi Curr message with the current limit set to 2.5A. Does it seem right that the radio would draw that much current when tuning into a dummy load? Any info on this would be appreciated. I'm finishing up the DSP, 160m and KNB2 options for the radio but would like to get this fixed before making changes. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Don: Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try those things, especially for my attic system. Just a few moments ago, I got rid of my coax feedline altogether and plugged my antenna wire (long wire to the backyard) directly into the K1, via a paperclip. Wow, that made a big difference - got down to about 1.5:1 on both 80m and 40m. By the way, I have read things about using a _counterpoise_. Is this a sort of substitute for a ground connection? I am interested, because we are going to do some camping over the next couple of weeks and I am taking the K1 along for (hopefully) some outdoor work. 73, Ed KB3SZZ== Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:34:09 -0400 From: w3...@embarqmail.com To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Ed, One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement
Hi gang, The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet Sunday, 6/21/09 at 1800Z. The net will start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed. I will not be able to be there, but Mark, K4SO, in Virginia will be doing the net control duties. Let's hope conditions are better than last week. Have a good one. 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] DSP and IF Filters
I have been going through the manual on the K3 trying different combination of DSP and IF as well as NR filters trying to reduce atmospheric noise. I find the noise level to high pitched which fatigues me after an hour or so of listening. I've listened to the Hear It external DSP filter employed on a friends ten-tec rig and the reduction of atmospheric noise is significant (1 S unit or better). Shouldn't the K3 DSP filter be capable of reducing the atmospheric noise to acceptable levels? Ron, N6SC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Hi Ed: I don't have a K1, but I agree with everything Don said. Your situation sounds a bit strange though, because I know a number of people who have K1's who typically have not problem loading all sorts of odd end fed wires. You are right to get rid of the coax in almost any situation like that. Coax has huge losses at high SWRs. The ATU only ensures a match between the antenna where it connects to the rig and the finals in your K1. It does *nothing* to reduce the SWR on the feed line between the rig and antenna. A counterpoise is used to produce a low impedance at the rig. It's usually 1/4 wavelength long. A 1/4 wave long conductor with the far end insulated will show a low impedance at rig end. It can replace an extensive RF grounding system, although a simple one-wire counterpoise is seldom as effective. However, it's world's better than no counterpoise or ground at all. Having a counterpoise or RF ground does two things: 1) It keeps troublesome RF voltages off of the case of your K1, the key, etc. 2) It greatly increases the efficiency of the radiator (antenna) when the antenna is an odd multiple of 1/4 wave long or less than 1/4 wave long. You'll want two counterpoise wires for your setup: one 66 feet long (1/4 wavelength on 80) and one 33 feet long (1/4 wave on 40). You can connect both in parallel to the case or ground lug on your K1 and leave them attached at all times. They won't interfere with each other. Indeed, you can run the two wires alongside each other but separate them the last several feet and be sure the ends are insulated from each other and from other objects. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of E Neubauer Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 6:21 PM To: Donald Wilhelm Cc: Elecraft Bulletin Board Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Don: Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try those things, especially for my attic system. Just a few moments ago, I got rid of my coax feedline altogether and plugged my antenna wire (long wire to the backyard) directly into the K1, via a paperclip. Wow, that made a big difference - got down to about 1.5:1 on both 80m and 40m. By the way, I have read things about using a _counterpoise_. Is this a sort of substitute for a ground connection? I am interested, because we are going to do some camping over the next couple of weeks and I am taking the K1 along for (hopefully) some outdoor work. 73, Ed KB3SZZ== Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:34:09 -0400 From: w3...@embarqmail.com To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Ed, One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving HotmailR. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutori al_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 _ Insert movie times and more without leaving HotmailR. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutori al_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list:
Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Ron: Thanks for the information about the counterpoise and feedline. Would using 300 ohm twinlead work better than coax for a kooky attic dipole I constructed? With RG-6 coax and no ground, it seems to work fairly well on 40 meters. I have a couple of other antenna questions: Grounding: I am currently using the third prong of my electrical socket for that. It is connected to the house plumbing in the basement. Is this acceptable? Should I use this for dipoles and loops, as well as long wires? Reception: I have made a couple of contacts in VA and IN with folks who give me an RST of 599. In both cases, their signal was fair - around 478 at best, but drifting. I was wondering why there is such a difference. Isn't propagation usually a two-way street? Thanks. 73, Ed KB3SZZ From: r...@cobi.biz To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 19:43:28 -0700 Hi Ed: I don't have a K1, but I agree with everything Don said. Your situation sounds a bit strange though, because I know a number of people who have K1's who typically have not problem loading all sorts of odd end fed wires. You are right to get rid of the coax in almost any situation like that. Coax has huge losses at high SWRs. The ATU only ensures a match between the antenna where it connects to the rig and the finals in your K1. It does *nothing* to reduce the SWR on the feed line between the rig and antenna. A counterpoise is used to produce a low impedance at the rig. It's usually 1/4 wavelength long. A 1/4 wave long conductor with the far end insulated will show a low impedance at rig end. It can replace an extensive RF grounding system, although a simple one-wire counterpoise is seldom as effective. However, it's world's better than no counterpoise or ground at all. Having a counterpoise or RF ground does two things: 1) It keeps troublesome RF voltages off of the case of your K1, the key, etc. 2) It greatly increases the efficiency of the radiator (antenna) when the antenna is an odd multiple of 1/4 wave long or less than 1/4 wave long. You'll want two counterpoise wires for your setup: one 66 feet long (1/4 wavelength on 80) and one 33 feet long (1/4 wave on 40). You can connect both in parallel to the case or ground lug on your K1 and leave them attached at all times. They won't interfere with each other. Indeed, you can run the two wires alongside each other but separate them the last several feet and be sure the ends are insulated from each other and from other objects. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of E Neubauer Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 6:21 PM To: Donald Wilhelm Cc: Elecraft Bulletin Board Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Don: Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try those things, especially for my attic system. Just a few moments ago, I got rid of my coax feedline altogether and plugged my antenna wire (long wire to the backyard) directly into the K1, via a paperclip. Wow, that made a big difference - got down to about 1.5:1 on both 80m and 40m. By the way, I have read things about using a _counterpoise_. Is this a sort of substitute for a ground connection? I am interested, because we are going to do some camping over the next couple of weeks and I am taking the K1 along for (hopefully) some outdoor work. 73, Ed KB3SZZ== Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:34:09 -0400 From: w3...@embarqmail.com To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Ed, One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving HotmailR. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutori al_QuickAdd_062009
[Elecraft] [K3] K3 Utility and Safari 4.0.1
When I attempted to download the latest beta using Safari on OS 10.5.7 the process stuck after loading 2 of 3 items. Switching to Firefox was successful. This happened some time back and I couldn't find the response. Gary W7TEA -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Utility-and-Safari-4.0.1-tp3123547p3123547.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Ed, Actually counterpoise is a misnomer. When implemented, it is a part of the antenna system. Yes, a 1/4 wave 'counterpoise' will produce a low impedance at the shack end, and will tend to keep RF-in-the-shack problems to a minimum. A coax feedline for multi-band operation is not the best - use coax only for resonant antennas and use parallel conductor feedline for non-resonant antennas. In the case of an attic antenna, the use of 'counterpoises' may be necessary because the antenna energy can be present in the shack due to the close coupling. Good luck on your camping adventures with the K1. An 88 (to 135) foot radiator center fed with 300 or 450 ohm parallel line will serve you well on both 80 and 40 meters. Hang it as a dipole or as an inverted Vee. Use a 44 ft to 66 ft length for 40 meters only. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Don: Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try those things, especially for my attic system. Just a few moments ago, I got rid of my coax feedline altogether and plugged my antenna wire (long wire to the backyard) directly into the K1, via a paperclip. Wow, that made a big difference - got down to about 1.5:1 on both 80m and 40m. By the way, I have read things about using a _counterpoise_. Is this a sort of substitute for a ground connection? I am interested, because we are going to do some camping over the next couple of weeks and I am taking the K1 along for (hopefully) some outdoor work. 73, Ed KB3SZZ== Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:34:09 -0400 From: w3...@embarqmail.com To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1 Ed, One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time. 73, Don W3FPR E Neubauer wrote: Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a townhouse, so options aren't great, but I've mostly tried long wires and loops in the attic and yard. Still, I thought obtaining a decent match wouldn't be so hard, especially on 40 meters. I should note that I have the 2-band filter board for 40 80 meters. Also, I am new to ham radio, so I am not sure whether it is safe to operate the rig when the SWR is that high. Comments or suggestions appreciated. 73,Ed KB3SZZ _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 _ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd_062009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Lo P
Jay, It really sounds as though you have a problem with the wattmeter in the KAT2. Try balancing and calibrating the wattmeter again. If you cannot achieve a good null with a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy load, check T1 and its associated components (T1 for well tinned and soldered leads and C34, R3, R4, D1 and D2 for god soldering and proper orientation). If you cannot achieve a good null when balancing the wattmeter, stop and ask for specific help. The null is a pre-requisite to proper calibration. 73, Don W3FPR Jay Sissom wrote: Don ( list), I started doing some testing tonight and have narrowed it down. I took out the antenna tuner and tested each band at the 2W setting, 5W 10W setting on the power knob. I have an external watt meter and dummy load attached. The power didn't match exactly on all the bands but it was fairly close (between 1.9W - 3.5W on 2W setting, 4.9 - 7W on 5W setting and 9W - 10W on the 10W setting). My Oak Hill WM2 meter only goes up to 10W. Then I re-installed the antenna tuner and started the test again. I connected to Ant 1 and had the ANT setting set to CALS. On 28060 the 2W setting measured 2W on the meter but gave an SWR of 1.4. At 5W it was SWR 1.5 and at 10W it was SWR 3. The other bands were similar. When I got to 21060 at 10W, the display said Hi Cur then showed an SWR of 3. At 10106 with 10W, it also said Hi Cur then the radio shut down and wouldn't come back on. I don't smell smoke or anything so I'm assuming the fuse reset and I'll need to wait for it to cool down. So it is definitely a problem with the antenna tuner. I think this has already identified a problem and I shouldn't keep going with this test. I'll take the antenna tuner out of the lid and look at it in more detail. But of course, any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 12:56 AM, Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Jay, The real answer is it all depends. Since this is a very recent K2 serial number, it may be that this problem has been present since it was built and was the reason that the original builder sold it - that is an unfortunate situation, but it must be considered. First, set your CAL CUR to 3.50 amps and try again. LoP indicates that the K2 is not developing adequate power to enable proper tuning for the KAT2 (it needs 2 watts to tune). Then set the K2 ATU menu to CALP and see if it will do a TUNE into a dummy load - first try at 5 watts power requested, then 10 watts and finally at maximum requested power. Does the HI-CUR message appear at all those power levels? Or only at maximum power? Next, try each band separately (doing the tests as above). Does the HI-CUR message appear on every band? or only some bands? After those tests, set the ATU menu to AUTO and do a TUNE into the dummy load. You should hear some relays click and after the tuner has set its L and C values to match the 50 ohm load, it should exit from TUNE. If all that does not produce satisfactory results, there is something wrong with the K2. To troubleshoot it, the first step is to remove the KAT2 and operate the base K2 directly into a 50 ohm non-inductive dummy load. If it does not produce good power output without HI Cur messages, then there is a problem with the base K2 - likely in the Low Pass Filters or with the T4 output transformer. We can help further if we have more specific information - what bands fail? what bands work? How much power is really produced? 73, Don W3FPR Jay Sissom wrote: Hello, I'm helping a friend who purchased a used K2. The K2 is a serial number 6xxx with a KAT2, KSB2 and KBT2. When tuning with the antenna tuner into a dummy load, sometimes The message Lo P appears on the display. It would also give the Hi Curr message with the current limit set to 2.5A. Does it seem right that the radio would draw that much current when tuning into a dummy load? Any info on this would be appreciated. I'm finishing up the DSP, 160m and KNB2 options for the radio but would like to get this fixed before making changes. Thanks 73 Jay W9IUF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.80/2187 - Release Date: 06/19/09 06:53:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by:
[Elecraft] SPL N/A with everybody on CW?
Right now I've got VFO A on 14.030.00 and VFO B on 7.027.00 and I'd like to transmit on the VFO B freq. Or I'm trying to setup N1MM so that when I click on the VFO B log section that it switches on split so that I can TX in the right band. But I keep getting SPL N/A. I even then tapped A-B twice and then went back to those frequencies and still got SPL N/A. Seems like I'm unable to use the split and TX on VFO B if I'm on independant bands? And yes both are set to CW. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] SPL N/A with everybody on CW?
I should also state that I swear this was just working a minute ago and now I seem to always get SUB N/A unless both VFO's are on the same band. On Fri, 2009-06-19 at 22:20 -0700, Brett Howard wrote: Right now I've got VFO A on 14.030.00 and VFO B on 7.027.00 and I'd like to transmit on the VFO B freq. Or I'm trying to setup N1MM so that when I click on the VFO B log section that it switches on split so that I can TX in the right band. But I keep getting SPL N/A. I even then tapped A-B twice and then went back to those frequencies and still got SPL N/A. Seems like I'm unable to use the split and TX on VFO B if I'm on independant bands? And yes both are set to CW. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Utility and Safari 4.0.1
I didn't have any trouble on 4.0.1. But I don't download the files directly with Safari. If you add a / to the end of the URL, the Beta directory links as a read-only drive. It's then a simple matter to copy out the files. Grant/NQ5T On Jun 19, 2009, at 11:43 PM, W7TEA wrote: When I attempted to download the latest beta using Safari on OS 10.5.7 the process stuck after loading 2 of 3 items. Switching to Firefox was successful. This happened some time back and I couldn't find the response. Gary W7TEA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- DVR question
Any positive words on the possibility of doing stereo recording when using the KRX3? Sorry I can't be more positive :-( 73, Lyle KK7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
