I attempted to update my K3 to version 3.68 and now my K3 no longer works.
It was working fine. I updated to version 3.67 yesterday. I tuned the
radio on just now. It was working fine. I downloaded and extracted
version 3.68. I opened the K3 Utility. The utility read the K3's
firmware
I'm sure you're all sick of my gushing over just HOW MUCH I love my K3 (and K2,
K1, and KX1) but if you have any doubts over what the K3 can do at VHF read on
for this week's episode:
1) During the ARRL EME contest using the K3 and XV-144 I was operating (though
not entering due to protest of
John in the K3 Utility Help file it explains what to do, it's under
troubleshooting - Force K3 into firmware load required mode
Hope that fixes the problem...
73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80 (f/w 3.68)
-
I attempted to update my K3 to version 3.68 and now my K3 no longer
Gary...
not competition, new multiplier and all time new DXCC ;o)
Looks like, at least, two inexpensive options to try...
73,
Julius
Julius Fazekas
N2WN
Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
http://groups.google.com/group/tcg1?hl=en
Tennessee QSO Party
Dick Williams wrote:
HELP!!
I am having a heck of a problem with Windows 7 in trying to download and
extract the k3fw3r68 zip file to update my K3. It must be a Win 7 issue
because I did not have the problem with XP
Hi, Dick. I have win 7 and when you do a download it will appear
Dave -
No joy. I did as the Utility Help said, but after the 10second start
it goes back to the red TX led flashing and the screen is dark.
I took out the KIO3 thinking that something was in transmit mode.
Again, no joy, same symptoms.
I can't even get a screen display. I'm holding off
Phil,
Those optional tools are for those who are not satisfied with the
default settings - in the case of the 50 uV signal generator, it will
allow you to set your S-meter at the S-9 point. My K3 was 'right on'
with the default settings, but since I have an XG2, I checked it anyway.
The 1
John:
Off the top of my head, the only thing I can offer is to remove all
external connections from the K3, except the power cord and a dummy
load. Also, if you are using a USB-to-9 pin adaptor and you have the
ability to use a traditional serial cable, try using that.
73, Ken K3IU
John,
The blinking TX LED and screen with backlight off is exactly the
condition that you are looking for. Go on to the next step and Test
Communications between K3Utility and the K3. If that is successful,
start the firmware download. If the communications test fails, check
the serial
I didn't use the optional tools when building my K3. I really don't need
to have that degree of precision. Just build it and enjoy it.
73, Mike NF4L
Phil Hystad wrote:
The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter
measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator
Dick,
There are many things that could be wrong, you will need to do some
Sherlock Holmes work.
Check to be sure that your account is set as an administrator. Go into
control panel User Accounts to be sure.
Another thing you should check is what your Folder Options are in control
panel. This
Hello Group,
I read the construction manual and cannot find the section about calibration.
Did I miss anything?
73
Johnny VR2XMC
Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略，教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!
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Elecraft mailing
Thanks to Dave, Ken and Don for the help and suggestions.
Dug out the old laptop from under the bed. It has a real serial port.
The transfer went fine and now all is working.
Joy!
73 de K1ESE
John
Don Wilhelm wrote:
John,
The blinking TX LED and screen with backlight off is exactly the
[With regard to the need for instrumentation]
W3FPR wrote:
So, the question becomes - What degree of accuracy in power output
and S-meter reading do you wish to achieve? The default settings will be
very close, but with the added instruments, one can achieve a higher degree
of confidence in those
Larry, VE3LR wrote:
As we age the brain (or at least mine) gets confused so easy..the love
of my life (my K3) works flawlessly in CAT with HRD using Elecraft's
serial/USB cable. CW Skimmer also works flawlessly (using 3KHZ mode) but I
cannot get the CAT side of CW Skimmer to
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter. Well,
maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere. No rush though. I
just realized though that I doubt that I have
Interesting problem with my W2 this morning. Was on 75 for a net at about
500 watts into (at first) a Windom and then a sloper. I have the 2KW 1.8-54
Mhz sensor. The 2KW range on the meter stopped working - acted as if I was
in the 200W range. The other ranges also seemed shifted down with
Manuel,
Thanks, I got it now. A wattmeter is useful as long as it is well calibrated.
If I choose the kit version, then I need to find a RF source / another
wattmeter for calibration.
For this reason, I bought the LP100 assembled version. Now I would wonder
whether I should order the
This KDSP2 was removed from my K2/100. I replaced it with the audio filter
module. Works as it should. Comes with the instruction manual. You can view
images at http://www.w0nta.com/KDSP2.htm . Price $165.00 shipped in US via
Priority Mail.
--
View this message in context:
Bill W4ZV wrote:
Larry, VE3LR wrote:
As we age the brain (or at least mine) gets confused so easy..the
love of my life (my K3) works flawlessly in CAT with HRD using Elecraft's
serial/USB cable. CW Skimmer also works flawlessly (using 3KHZ mode) but
I cannot get the CAT side of
The Elecraft dummy load DL1 can be used as a watt meter, using a DMM.
Peter
On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 8:33 AM, Phil Hystad k7...@comcast.net wrote:
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I
I must confess Julian I don't know what I'm doing here. I thought I had
registered for the reflector but actually is was just for Nabble. So I got that
straightened out, but not even sure if I am using it correctly...:-)
So I did try (I just did a quick update on the relector) LP Bridge,
On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Larry, VE3LR [via Elecraft]
ml-node+4156588-198068...@n2.nabble.comml-node%2b4156588-198068...@n2.nabble.com
wrote:Yes I have OmniRig installed. I also just tried LP Bridge (thanks to
G4IL0 Julian's suggestion) and at first had the K3 connected through COM 6
I have been using scanning for the first time today. (Looking for some life
on 10 meters). I prefer to have the audio on which requires holding the scan
button a bit longer. I noticed that sometimes the scanning starts
immediately and a few KHz fly by before the audio comes on. Other times
a viable question posed... very good...
I would do all I could to reduce that loss... the first time... and upon
discovering the second, do all necessary to reduce that one too. With a
consideration as to the cost involved.
For example.. with my wire antennas.. I have introduced a noticable
Sometimes learning to achieve greater precision for its own sake can be an
enjoyable and educational pursuit, even if it makes no significant
difference in how the rig performs on the air.
And then there are the occasional Hams who are using their rigs in a special
way that wants greater
Hi all,
I will be running the UK Elecraft net again tomorrow (Sunday) at 09:00 on
3658 +/- QRM. It would be great to see you there!
73 Ian
--
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org
Among QRPers especially, there is a variation of the old saying about money:
save a dB here and a dB there and pretty soon we're talking about real
power.
I find that's true of dimes, dollars and dB!
Ron AC7AC
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Elecraft mailing list
On Thu Dec 10 19:20:41 EST 2009 Paul Huff (N8XMS) wrote...
... I will only be able to purchase a basic K2 and plan on adding the
extras to it over the next couple of years...
Hi Paul,
Congratulations in advance of your K2 purchase. You were very wise to
post your question on the Reflector
I found it interesting.
Dan- W4TQ
...
Is it really necessary to continue this thread? My inbox is seeing entirely
too much drivel like this thread and others on this reflector.
Bob W6TR
- Original Message -
From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Phil,
The DL2 has an included diode detector which can be used in conjunction
with a DMM to measure power accurately. and is not very expensive.
73,
Don W3FPR
Phil Hystad wrote:
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit
I have just been reading the Transverter XV50, XV144, XV222 Assembly
Manual Rev B, March 2006 and notice on page 2 that the top cover has
ventilation holes drilled in it. My XV144 does not have any ventilation
holes.
Should I drill some vent holes in the top cover, over the four
metal-oxide
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 20:01:45 +, David Pratt
da...@g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk wrote:
I have just been reading the Transverter XV50, XV144, XV222 Assembly
Manual Rev B, March 2006 and notice on page 2 that the top cover has
ventilation holes drilled in it. My XV144 does not have any ventilation
I have tried the utility and the Macro commands. It would be nice if each
command had a built in enter so it wouldn't be necessary to mouse back up
to the command line to get focus and then enter.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
ATS-3B
This is implemented in a new W2 Utility version now in field test. I'm
out of town or I'd email it to you. Send me a note after 12/21 and
I'll send it when I return.
73 de Dick, K6KR
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 12, 2009, at 10:28 AM, Bill K9YEQ k9...@live.com wrote:
I have tried the
Hi Kevin,
Is the K3 still for sale? If so, is this a factory assembled or kit version?
I actually have a nearly identical LP-PAN adapter (set for Kenwoods) and
EMU-0202 setup connected to my TS-940SAT.
Are you willing to sell the K3 separately or only as a group?
73,
David Ramsden NR4MM
Hello all,
like I have wrote previously, I will assemble my K3 at April next year,
however I have not anti-static stuff yet, I have found site that sells
anti-static stuff, like mats, gloves and ESD wrist strap. Could be
useful to buy all stuff, even that ESD gloves to assemble K3 ?
Here is the
The W2 meets the +/- 0.5 dB specification shown in the manual *without* any
further calibration, whether built from a kit or factory built. (That's why the
sensor is factory-assembled and calibrated, even in the kit version.)
It is possible to adjust the calibration using the W2 utility
I'm not so sure about this, at least for the holes.
My old XV144 have them since it came out of the factory...,
Maybe it is a simple packing mistake.
Try ask to elecraft support, maybe they can clear it out.
73 de Giulio IW3HVB
No need to drill the holes or get a fan for any of the other XV
I'm new at this. Could someone pls cite the web url where there are specific
instructions on how to use a computer keyboard F1 through F12 buttons, to
control/activate the k3 Utility CW memories found in the k3 Utility
Terminal memories, or the K3 Utility Command Tester memories. Tks much
!!
The memories in the K3 Utility are distinct from the K3's CW memories.
K3 Ytility instructions are in it's Help
Dick, K6KR
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 12, 2009, at 11:42 AM, Mark M W2OR mark-7727...@starpower.net
wrote:
I'm new at this. Could someone pls cite the web url where there
Somewhere I've seen a LCD Banner that show when power is applied but I
do not see it in the manual.
Any ideas?!
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Post:
David,
The holes only vent the attenuators, the heat sink for the output module
is the bottom plate.
Whether the attenuators need venting or not depends on your drive level
- the attenuators are not used at all for 1 mW input, so if that is what
you are using, rest easy.
I am curious about
Jed I use an SB221.
I strongly suggest a soft key device for the amp.
Mine also has a soft start, Harbaugh filter caps, and a standby switch.
Tune it with a pulser - see Inrad, etc.
I run on 110v, that limits the output of the amp, but 30 watts into it shows
300 watts going out.
Cheers,
K3 utility, configuration tab, power on banner
Dick, K6KR
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 12, 2009, at 11:55 AM, Robert 'RC' Conley
rc.kc...@gmail.com wrote:
Somewhere I've seen a LCD Banner that show when power is applied but I
do not see it in the manual.
Any ideas?!
David,
The mat and wrist strap should do the job nicely, but I don't believe
the gloves are necessary. You will be dealing with parts at the board
level and not handling particularly sensitive individual components.
73,
Don W3FPR
David Quental wrote:
Hello all,
like I have wrote
RC,
Look in the K3Utility Help file. You add the banner using K3Utility.
73,
Don W3FPR
Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:
Somewhere I've seen a LCD Banner that show when power is applied but I
do not see it in the manual.
Any ideas?!
Got it done.Thanks everyone
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Please
Vibroplex Iambic paddle Brass Racer Triangle base MINT 100.00
1938-B McElroy Deluxe with the dot stabilizer. Near mint with one small
paint chip. This is the Rolls Royce of semi automatic keys. This is indeed
a collectors item for CW connoisseur's. Pictures.
525.00 shipped and insured.
Like its been said,is strongly adviced to use an extra relay interfaced betwwen
the K3 and the SB-200/220/221 because of the high DC voltage and current of
these old amps (around 150 to 175V and 300mA).Ameritron sells for around fifty
bucks the ARB-704 that will do the job quite well.
In
Hello David,
I think some group members have already answered your question about vent holes.
According to the manual, it should operate at either 20w SSB/CW or 10w FM fully
duty cycle. Even you operate at 10W FM, the case is still extremely hot.
As mentioned in this reflector many times,
Hi gang,
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet Sunday, 12/13/09 at 1800Z on 14.314
MHz. Hopefully, propagation will be good. See you there.
73,
Phil, NS7P
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Home:
My XV222 runs hot after a few minutes of contest activity with 20W output, 5W
input on SSB or CW. I have not operated it on FM. Running at 15W helps a bit,
but it is still warmer than I feel comfortable with. I have a linear and can
drive that with 10w to 15w, so that helps, but if you are
Good Evening,
Looks like the freezing rain is only for those folks living in the valley.
Oddly enough the temperature up here is three degrees warmer than it is lower.
The cold air has been captured in the valleys and has to follow the rivers to
get out to the ocean. Moisture is laid on
Hello James,
I agree with you.
A retrofit kit with additional holes in the top / bottom covers around the
power module and FAN area would be help. In fact, I would suggest product
improvement in the following areas (which means minimal cost to Elecraft):
1. For all XV transverters, there
I was at a friends today, looking at his K3. It's in the 1000 range of
serial numbers, not a kit.
If power is set above 95-96 watts, the rig shuts down instantly when you
transmit (at least in CW and if you press the TUNE button. Didn't try it
on any other modes).
His power supply reads
Yes, the K3 has the ability to display voltage and current drain.
See pg. 36 of the manual, under VFO B Alternate Displays.
Bob NW8L
On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 8:47 PM, Mike n...@nf4l.com wrote:
I was at a friends today, looking at his K3. It's in the 1000 range of
serial numbers, not a kit.
FCC ID:
https://gullfoss2.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=ExhibitsRequestTimeout=500calledFromFrame=Napplication_id=211560fcc_id=
Some early review discussion on the FT-5K Group regarding the new radio:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Yaesu_FT-5000/messages
My K3 is getting
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 22:39:28 +0100, Giulio Pico - IW3HVB
iw3...@gmail.com wrote:
I guess my XV144 doesn't get hot because I drive it with 1mw. There
are holes in it above the attenuation resistors.
73,
Tom, N5GE
n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's
The heat is NOT quite generated from the 3 x 160 ohms attenuation resistors.
It does come from the heat dissipation from the RF power module RA30H1317M when
operating under Elecraft published specifications i.e. 20w SSB/CW or 10w
continous carrier modes e.g. FM.
73
Johnny Siu VR2XMC
-
Does this happen with the K3 fed to a 50 ohm dummy load, Mike? If not,
check that the antenna impedance is not too low, as it could be if you
are using a quarter-wave end fed. See bottom on p61 of the manual (Rev
D2). My K3 closes down on 160m with a 132ft longwire.
73
David G4DMP
In a
It's a fairly early purchase, Don, and has a steel top cover with no
vent holes. It is a pity that the XV--- transverters do not have serial
numbers so they can be identified. I will drill 30 holes in the area of
the Metox resistors.
In a recent message, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
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