Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[Eric J]

Even more ironic if it was a Chinese company you never heard of.

Eric KE6US

On 10/11/2016 6:42 PM, W1GO (Joe) wrote:

Who do we think makes the DX Engineering connectors that are so loved?   DX 
doesn't manufacture them; they are private labeled by another manufacturer.  
Wouldn't it be ironic if it was Amphenol? Hi Hi.

Joe
W1GO



On Oct 11, 2016, at 20:00, Gary K9GS 
 wrote:

Hi Mark,

I have had very good results using the DX Engineering brand PL259's (solder 
type).

I have also heard from people I know and trust that the new "Next Generation" 
crimp connectors from DXE are excellent.  I look forward to trying them out 
when my current supply of Amphenol crimp connectors needs replenishment.





On 10/11/2016 12:39 PM, Mark Tosiello wrote:
HI,

I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the antenna
coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in another
application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not affiliated
with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE PL259s?

Mark KD8EDC



On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Keith Hutt 
 wrote:

Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well
worth the extra money.

But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper

Regards

Keith G0TSH






On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much


more loss than a "good" connector?

Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid
and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels,
tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.

When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot
of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next
3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that
were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors
in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest
running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the
elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny
spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart
mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I
soldered the center conductor. And so on.

W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only
83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about
what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.


73, Jim K9YC
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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[EricJ]

Even more ironic if it was a Chinese company you never heard of.

Eric KE6US


On 10/11/2016 6:42 PM, W1GO (Joe) wrote:

Who do we think makes the DX Engineering connectors that are so loved?   DX 
doesn't manufacture them; they are private labeled by another manufacturer.  
Wouldn't it be ironic if it was Amphenol? Hi Hi.

Joe
W1GO


On Oct 11, 2016, at 20:00, Gary K9GS  wrote:

Hi Mark,

I have had very good results using the DX Engineering brand PL259's (solder 
type).

I have also heard from people I know and trust that the new "Next Generation" 
crimp connectors from DXE are excellent.  I look forward to trying them out when my 
current supply of Amphenol crimp connectors needs replenishment.




On 10/11/2016 12:39 PM, Mark Tosiello wrote:
HI,

I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the antenna
coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in another
application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not affiliated
with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE PL259s?

Mark KD8EDC


On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Keith Hutt  wrote:

Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well
worth the extra money.

But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper

Regards

Keith G0TSH





On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much

more loss than a "good" connector?

Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid
and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels,
tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.

When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot
of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next
3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that
were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors
in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest
running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the
elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny
spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart
mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I
soldered the center conductor. And so on.

W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only
83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about
what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.


73, Jim K9YC
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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[W1GO (Joe)]

Who do we think makes the DX Engineering connectors that are so loved?   DX 
doesn't manufacture them; they are private labeled by another manufacturer.  
Wouldn't it be ironic if it was Amphenol? Hi Hi.

Joe
W1GO

> On Oct 11, 2016, at 20:00, Gary K9GS  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> I have had very good results using the DX Engineering brand PL259's (solder 
> type).
> 
> I have also heard from people I know and trust that the new "Next Generation" 
> crimp connectors from DXE are excellent.  I look forward to trying them out 
> when my current supply of Amphenol crimp connectors needs replenishment.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 10/11/2016 12:39 PM, Mark Tosiello wrote:
>> HI,
>> 
>> I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
>> putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the antenna
>> coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in another
>> application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
>> spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not affiliated
>> with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE PL259s?
>> 
>> Mark KD8EDC
>> 
>>> On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Keith Hutt  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well
>>> worth the extra money.
>>> 
>>> But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper
>>> 
>>> Regards
>>> 
>>> Keith G0TSH
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
 I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much
>>> more loss than a "good" connector?
>>> 
>>> Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
>>> dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid
>>> and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels,
>>> tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.
>>> 
>>> When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot
>>> of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next
>>> 3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that
>>> were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors
>>> in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest
>>> running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the
>>> elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny
>>> spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart
>>> mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I
>>> soldered the center conductor. And so on.
>>> 
>>> W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only
>>> 83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about
>>> what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 73, Jim K9YC
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> Message delivered to tkddr...@gmail.com
>>> 
>> __
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>> 
> 
> -- 
> 73,
> 
> Gary K9GS
> 
> Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
> Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
> CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[Gary K9GS]

Hi Mark,

I have had very good results using the DX Engineering brand PL259's 
(solder type).


I have also heard from people I know and trust that the new "Next 
Generation" crimp connectors from DXE are excellent.  I look forward to 
trying them out when my current supply of Amphenol crimp connectors 
needs replenishment.




On 10/11/2016 12:39 PM, Mark Tosiello wrote:

HI,

I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the antenna
coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in another
application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not affiliated
with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE PL259s?

Mark KD8EDC

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Keith Hutt  wrote:


Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well
worth the extra money.

But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper

Regards

Keith G0TSH




On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much

more loss than a "good" connector?

Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid
and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels,
tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.

When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot
of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next
3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that
were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors
in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest
running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the
elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny
spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart
mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I
soldered the center conductor. And so on.

W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only
83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about
what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.


73, Jim K9YC
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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Dave G3WGN M6O]

Not oddball in EU, nor expensive.  Good quality ones are available from
Kabel-Kusch in Germany and Barenco in UK:
http://www.barenco.co.uk/uhf-line-socket-so239-jacks-rg213-clamp-top-hat-compression-body-solder-pin-165425.
 
China RF do some good ones via Fleabay too.
We use these extensively in our 6Gs DXpeditions, together with compression
type PL259s.  A side benefit is that it's easy to terminate the coax feed
from multiple station in female connectors (forming a 'patch panel' in
effect) so there is zero risk of cross-coupling 2 stations.  
My own station has mostly been converted to compression types; but there are
Amphenols in there too.  Motivation to change? Ease of waterproofing the
compression types.
Just my 2 pence/2c,
73, David G3WGN M6O WJ6O



Josh Fiden wrote
> Cable mount female UHF is an oddball and expensive. To avoid barrels, I 
> use type N female cable mount which are common.
> 
> 73,
> Josh W6XU
> 
> On 10/11/2016 3:52 AM, Nr4c wrote:
>> Why use barrels?  Doesn't Amphenol or Pastornack make a female UHF
>> connector to put on cable end.  For this specific use, a custom  built
>> cable seems appropriate.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale: KAT500F

[Bill]

Sold - thank you.
Bill W2BLC

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[Elecraft] For Sale

[Jeffrey Cantor]

Elecraft KAT500 Tuner $550 – BGMRC ClubMembers $500 MicroHam DigiKeyer II 
Digital Interface -$275 – BGMRC Club Members $225.Jeff/ K1ZN  
jacant...@gmail.com Dr. Jeffrey A. Cantor
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Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[Dave Cole]

On Tue, 2016-10-11 at 13:39 -0400, Mark Tosiello wrote:
> HI,
> 
> I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
> putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the
> antenna
> coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in
> another
> application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
> spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not
> affiliated
> with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE
> PL259s?
> 
> Mark KD8EDC

I also use DXE PL-259 connectors and have had zero issues with them as
well...  They are far cheaper than Amphenol connectors.  I have used DXE
connectors for the past 5 years, some outside with no coverings but
protected from most of the rain, and have had zero issues with them.
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Mark Tosiello]

Here's what I use for the run up the mast to my HexBeam. The center
conductor is stranded copper, and the jacket is thermoplastic elastomer.
MUCH more flexible than standard LMR-400...thus, the name LMR-400 UltraFlex:

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/tmv-lmr-400ultra

I have a run going up the mast support forming a loop at the HexBeam. About
25 feet of a run of 250 feet of standard LMR-400. Barrel connectors cause
negligible signal loss. Connection is protected by internal "Stuff"
application, and externally by Coax-Seal.

Mark KD8EDC

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 9:37 PM, John Parker  wrote:

> There is a stranded center conductor version of the LM400, do not remember
> what the designation is. I plan to use some for the same reason, going
> around a rotor to a HexBeam.
> 73, John WB4UHCK3 #2165
>
> On Monday, October 10, 2016 6:16 PM, "hsherr...@reagan.com" <
> hsherr...@reagan.com> wrote:
>
>
>  OK all. I'm installing a 6m rotating beam and feeding it with LMR400.
> Would you connect the LMR to the antenna and allow it to move with the
> rotation, or run a short length of something much more flexible between the
> antenna and LMR? I have my concerns that the solid heavy inner conductor of
> the LMR won't take much movement.
>
> Harlan
> K4HES
>
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[Elecraft] KX1 For Sale, NEW ASKING PRICE!

[Richard Phelps]

*REVISED* asking price for my KX1, s/n 0294

* KX1, Transceiver
* KXPD1, Keyer Paddle
* KXAT1, Internal Automatic Antenna Tuner
* KXB30, 30 meter module
* All Documentation
* *Pelican Waterproof Carrying Case #1060
*
The rig is in pristine condition and works great!

Asking $335.00, which includes shipping in the continental US.  PayPal
preferred!

Please contact me off-list at K1SW at ARRL dot net

Dick Phelps, K1SW



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Josh Fiden]

Cable mount female UHF is an oddball and expensive. To avoid barrels, I 
use type N female cable mount which are common.


73,
Josh W6XU

On 10/11/2016 3:52 AM, Nr4c wrote:

Why use barrels?  Doesn't Amphenol or Pastornack make a female UHF connector to 
put on cable end.  For this specific use, a custom  built cable seems 
appropriate.


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Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[Mark Tosiello]

HI,

I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the antenna
coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in another
application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not affiliated
with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE PL259s?

Mark KD8EDC

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Keith Hutt  wrote:

> Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well
> worth the extra money.
>
> But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper
>
> Regards
>
> Keith G0TSH
>
>
>
>
> On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> > I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much
> more loss than a "good" connector?
>
> Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
> dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid
> and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels,
> tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.
>
> When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot
> of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next
> 3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that
> were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors
> in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest
> running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the
> elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny
> spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart
> mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I
> soldered the center conductor. And so on.
>
> W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only
> 83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about
> what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.
>
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] PL259s

[Keith Hutt]

Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well worth 
the extra money.

But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper

Regards

Keith G0TSH 




On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more 
> loss than a "good" connector?

Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of 
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid 
and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels, 
tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.

When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot 
of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next 
3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that 
were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors 
in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest 
running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the 
elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny 
spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart 
mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I 
soldered the center conductor. And so on.

W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only 
83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about 
what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more loss than a 
"good" connector?


Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of 
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid 
and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels, 
tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.


When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot 
of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next 
3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that 
were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors 
in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest 
running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the 
elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny 
spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart 
mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I 
soldered the center conductor. And so on.


W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only 
83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about 
what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.



73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S with ACOM 1000 linear amp.

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,10/11/2016 1:57 AM, Alex Dokic via Elecraft wrote:

i see the important info on controlling the drive power with the power control 
on the k3 and not using ALC, also the TX delay time may have to be increased a 
bit. I am not sure on the connection from the k3 to acom.


I ran a 1010 for a while for CQP, only on SSB, so I can't comment on 
delay time. A simple RCA to RCA connector from the K3 to the 1000 is all 
that is needed to key the amp. You are correct that ALC should NOT be 
used between the K3 and the amp. This is true of virtually ALL rigs and 
amps. Using ALC to set power is a recipe for splatter and clicks.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 for sale

[Matt Murphy]

Correction: The unit contains the roofing filter. Apologies for the typo.

73,
Matt NQ6N

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 10:37 AM, Matt Murphy  wrote:

> I'm considering switching to a KX2, if anyone is interested in my KX3
> please make an offer.
>
> - Mint condition 700 range serial number.
> - Contains the crystal filter and ATU
> - Includes the matching "Pro Audio Engineering" power supply.
> - Includes a new matching pelican case.
> - Includes the Elecraft matching paddle.
>
> Not in a hurry to sell and very happy with the setup, but my last trip
> made me think that I might prefer the slightly smaller size transceiver so
> I can pack more clothing in the same backpack.
>
> 73,
> Matt NQ6N
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Time Display Bug

[Wayne Burdick]

Thanks for catching this, Bob. I've moved up the list.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Oct 10, 2016, at 7:34 PM, Bob Martin  wrote:

> It turns out that at least on the K3S, if you stay on one frequency for a 
> long time, with the time showing in the VFO B area, that displayed time 
> drifts slower and slower, losing 8 to 10 seconds (or more) over an hour.
> 
> This isn't RTC drift -- the RTC is fine -- it's the way the display processor 
> keeps the time display in software. If you do a number of things such as 
> changing bands, changing modes, or just tapping the DISP key, the displayed 
> time is corrected to the RTC time.
> 
> This was reported as a bug, and verified, back in February.
> 
> While it's considered a medium priority, and it's more or less cosmetic, it's 
> still a source of irritation. It bugs me.
> 
> I was hoping it would be fixed in the recent betas. It's still present in the 
> recent September beta firmware release.
> 
> Any ideas on time frames for squashing this bug?
> 
> Love the radio, and trying to convince Santa that I deserve a P3...
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bob K6RTM
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 Heil PR 781

[Michaelkn9p]

I would be interested in knowing if anyone is using the Heil PR-781 with the
K3.
Please contact off list.
73
KN9P



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Heil-PR-781-tp7623246.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KX3 for sale

[Matt Murphy]

I'm considering switching to a KX2, if anyone is interested in my KX3
please make an offer.

- Mint condition 700 range serial number.
- Contains the crystal filter and ATU
- Includes the matching "Pro Audio Engineering" power supply.
- Includes a new matching pelican case.
- Includes the Elecraft matching paddle.

Not in a hurry to sell and very happy with the setup, but my last trip made
me think that I might prefer the slightly smaller size transceiver so I can
pack more clothing in the same backpack.

73,
Matt NQ6N
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[Elecraft] Fw: Re: Antenna Question

[riese-k3djc]

 
50 Ohm Magic, UHF Connectors 
TO: The Savvy Microwave Group 
FROM: Dick, K2RIW. 
RE: Coax Impedances, Losses, and the Maligning of UHF Connectors.
Coax Impedances, Losses, and the Maligning of UHF Connectors
by Dick Knadle, K2RIW, 31 May 2001. 
Coax Impedance -- Concerning the possible choices of the impedance of a
coaxial transmission line, a great reference is "Microwave Transmission
Design Data", by Theodore Moreno, Dover Publications, 1948. On pages 64
through 69 he discusses four criteria for choosing a particular
impedance. The four choices displayed in the graph on page 64
demonstrates how non-critical (broad ranged) many of these impedances
are. Most of the following addresses air dielectric coaxial transmission
lines. Here are some interesting "Moreno" facts: 
1. The maximum continuous power handling occurs at an impedance of 30
ohms.
2. The maximum breakdown voltage occurs at an impedance of 60 ohms.
3. The minimum insertion loss occurs at 77 ohms.
4. The maximum shorted line, resonant impedance occurs at 133 ohms.
5. Conductor losses (in dB's) are proportional to the square root of
frequency.
6. Dielectric loss (in dB) is linearly proportional to frequency. Hence,
at higher frequencies the dielectric losses become increasingly
important.
Cable Graphs -- We have all seen graphs of the insertion loss of our
favorite cables. They are usually displayed on Log-Log paper with the
horizontal axis being frequency, and the vertical axis being insertion
loss in dB per 100 feet (or 100 meters). The curious thing is that the
insertion loss graph appears as a sloping straight line, with some of the
cables displaying a slight upward hook at the highest recommended
frequency. Here is the explanation. 
On Log-Log paper an exponential function appears as a straight line where
the slope is proportional to the exponent value. A square root function
has a exponent of 1/2. A linear function has an exponent of 1. On most of
the cables, only the conductor losses (exponent of 1/2) are significant
throughout much of the recommended frequency range. Thus, most of that
range is displayed with a slope of 1/2. The hook at the end represents
the upper frequency range where the dielectric losses are beginning to
kick in. Here the line is beginning to slide into a slope of 1.5, due to
the combined effects of the 1/2 slope (conductor losses), plus the 1.0
slope (dielectric losses). 
Estimating Trick -- Knowing these facts allows you to make some
interesting mental approximations. Let's assume you know that your
favorite cable has an insertion loss of 1.0 dB per 100 feet at 144 MHz.
If your friend asks you what's the approximate loss at 432, here is what
you can do. Since you know that the cable is usable to at least 2 GHz,
you assume that conductor losses dominate throughout most of the 144 to
432 frequency region, and conductor loss is proportional to the square
root of frequency. 432 MHz versus 144 MHz is a 3:1 frequency ratio. The
square root of 3 is 1.73. Multiply the 144 MHz loss (1.0 dB) by the 1.73
factor, and you come up with a predicted approximation of 1.73 dB per 100
feet at 432 MHz. Because there will be a slight contribution due to
dielectric losses at this end of the cable's operating range you could
round your prediction up to 1.75 dB per 100 feet. Try this procedure on
the graphs of your favorite cables and you will be amazed how close the
approximation usually is. 
Cut-Off Frequency -- As you go beyond the manufacturer's upper
recommended frequency, the cable is capable of acting like a round piece
of wave guide (WG). The presence of the center conductor adds a little
capacitive loading that slightly lowers the WG cut-off frequency. Moreno
recommends using this approximate equation for predicting the cut-off
wavelength: 
Lambda = Pi * (a + b). 
a = outer radius of the center conductor. b = inner radius of the outer
conductor. Pi = 3.1416 ... 
In other words, the limiting wavelength is approximately equal to the
circumference at the arithmetic mean diameter. 
Coaxial WG -- Now, don't let this limitation always scare you into
submission. The cable isn't going to explode if you use it above the
recommended frequency, it just gets a little tricky up there. The first
wave guide (WG) mode to consider is the TE11 circular mode. That's the
one used by the 10 GHz guys who are using 3/4 inch water pipe as a poor
man's wave guide -- it turns out to be a very high quality [low loss]
wave guide. In the TE11 WG mode the maximum E-field lines flow from the 6
o'clock position to the 12 o'clock position in the pipe (vertical
polarization is assumed). If your coax cable doesn't have any significant
bends in it, and the inner conductor is centered, it won't launch any
E-field (WG mode) at right angles to the center conductor. Your next
question is "what's a significant bend?" The microwaver's are going to
have to study this, but, my gut feel is that a bend radius of greater
than 1 foot is OK. 
It is just a matter of time until

Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[riese-k3djc]

a much better good connector that prople think

Bob K3DJC


On Tue, 11 Oct 2016 09:29:19 -0400 "Charlie T, K3ICH" 
writes:
> I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so 
> much more
> loss than a "good" connector?
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3S wth Acom 1000

[Alex Dokic via Elecraft]

Hi guys, a big thank you to everyone has replied to my post, this is Ham Radio 
spirit!. Thanks M0KVA Alex .73

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more
loss than a "good" connector?

They're probably both (nickel, silver ???) plated brass with a dielectric
insulator usually Teflon,  phenolic or ??

Is it the plating, the insulator, the fit of the threads, the
solder-ability, or what, that makes the lossy?

I can understand it if the dimensions are way off or they don't thread on
properly, but that should be obvious in the installation process.

Not trying to start a fight or insult anyone.


73, Charlie k3ICH

 




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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

SOME 'junk' PL259s are fine. If there are problems with the threads you 
will know right away. I have had some that are plated with something 
that won't take solder, or which have plastic insulation that melts when 
you solder the center pin. But again, you will know this right away.


SO239s and barrels may have contact tension problems that take awhile to 
manifest themselves. And elbows and Ts can have internal issues (like 
the famous elbows with little springs to join the two parts). For these, 
only Amphenol or mil-spec will do.


Having said all this, just before I moved here, I ordered a bunch of 
Amphenol connectors, including the PL259s.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 11 Oct 2016 11:38, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,10/10/2016 4:49 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:

If you're concerned about the additional loss of a barrel connector at
50MHz, you should be using feedline with lower loss than LMR400 up the
tower.


The loss in GOOD quality UHF connectors and barrels at 50 MHz is
negligible. There are urban legends (false, as usual) claiming that
every connector loses a dB. The grain of truth is that JUNK connectors
may introduce significant loss, but GOOD connectors and barrels do NOT.
"Good" means Amphenol 83-1SP for the PL-259s, and Amphenol or surplus
MIL-spec for the barrels.

Several years ago, I made up more than a dozen 100 ft cables using a
cable of somewhat better construction than LMR400 (Commscope 3227) for a
DX trip. The connectors were Amphenol 83-1SP that I soldered myself. To
test those cables, I spliced them together using Amphenol barrels and
measured the loss of about 1300 ft of cable up to 500 MHz using HP
generator and spectrum analyzer. The measured loss was LESS than the
manufacturer's spec. There were 27 83-1SPs and 13 barrels in line.

JUNK connectors are the shiny,unbranded stuff you see at ham flea
markets, and sold online and in ham magazines.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] I: K3S with ACOM 1000 linear amp.

[glcazzola]

Invio eseguito dallo smartphone BlackBerry 10.
  Messaggio originale  
Da: glcazz...@alice.it
Inviato: martedì 11 ottobre 2016 13:35
A: Alex Dokic via Elecraft; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Oggetto: R: [Elecraft] K3S with ACOM 1000 linear amp.

I have a K3S connected to a new Acom 1000 from two months. 
I dont use alc, only the cable from  the key out of K3‎S to the Acom 1000 key 
in.
You dont need any interface.
I work CW 90percent of my radio activity, always in QSK-full break in. I fixed  
qsk delay on K3S at 8mS, without any problem
 (Acom owner said me that Acom 1000 have no problem with a so fast switching). 
Faster switching doesnt anyway give problems or damage becouse Acom 1000 
protections should stop amplifier and dont damage it, so he said.
But if you prefer you can opt for 10ms...
‎Both K3S and Acom 1000 are great equipment.
I think the best.
Ian IK4EWX

Invio eseguito dallo smartphone BlackBerry 10.
  Messaggio originale  
Da: Alex Dokic via Elecraft
Inviato: martedì 11 ottobre 2016 12:18
A: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Rispondi a: Alex Dokic
Oggetto: [Elecraft] K3S with ACOM 1000 linear amp.

Hello all, I have a k3s and want to link it with my new acom 1000 amp. Looking 
through both manuals i see the important info on controlling the drive power 
with the power control on the k3 and not using ALC, also the TX delay time may 
have to be increased a bit. I am not sure on the connection from the k3 to 
acom. Will a Cable from the key out on the k3 to the key in on the acom work, 
or do I need an interface. Any info will be appreciated on this subject. Alex 
M0KVA 


Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] K3S with ACOM 1000 linear amp.

[Martin]

Alex,
no connections other than coax cable and a cable with cinch plugs both 
ends are necessary.


Just set K3's power output to a level your Acom 1000 is satisfied with. 
Make sure not to overdrive the Amp. Find the maximum drive level in the 
manual of your Acom.

Your Amp will display an error message when drive level is set too high.

I use an Acom 1000 myself together with a K3. I never set the drive 
level higher than the amp outputs about 100-200 Watts below maximum.


--

Ohne CW ist es nur CB..

73, Martin DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Nr4c]

Why use barrels?  Doesn't Amphenol or Pastornack make a female UHF connector to 
put on cable end.  For this specific use, a custom  built cable seems 
appropriate. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Oct 11, 2016, at 4:38 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On Mon,10/10/2016 4:49 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:
>> If you're concerned about the additional loss of a barrel connector at 
>> 50MHz, you should be using feedline with lower loss than LMR400 up the tower.
> 
> The loss in GOOD quality UHF connectors and barrels at 50 MHz is negligible. 
> There are urban legends (false, as usual) claiming that every connector loses 
> a dB. The grain of truth is that JUNK connectors may introduce significant 
> loss, but GOOD connectors and barrels do NOT. "Good" means Amphenol 83-1SP 
> for the PL-259s, and Amphenol or surplus MIL-spec for the barrels.
> 
> Several years ago, I made up more than a dozen 100 ft cables using a cable of 
> somewhat better construction than LMR400 (Commscope 3227) for a DX trip. The 
> connectors were Amphenol 83-1SP that I soldered myself. To test those cables, 
> I spliced them together using Amphenol barrels and measured the loss of about 
> 1300 ft of cable up to 500 MHz using HP generator and spectrum analyzer. The 
> measured loss was LESS than the manufacturer's spec. There were 27 83-1SPs 
> and 13 barrels in line.
> 
> JUNK connectors are the shiny,unbranded stuff you see at ham flea markets, 
> and sold online and in ham magazines.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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[Elecraft] K3S with ACOM 1000 linear amp.

[Alex Dokic via Elecraft]

Hello all, I have a k3s and want to link it with my new acom 1000 amp. Looking 
through both manuals i see the important info on controlling the drive power 
with the power control on the k3 and not using ALC, also the TX delay time may 
have to be increased a bit. I am not sure on the connection from the k3 to 
acom. Will a Cable from the key out on the k3 to the key in on the acom work, 
or do I need an interface. Any info will be appreciated on this subject. Alex 
M0KVA 


Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] [K3] KPA3A low Bias

[Martin]

Elecrafters,
i built & maintain a new K3 for our local clubstation. We are preparing 
for the upcoming Worked All Germany Contest and found the transmitted 
signal being raspy, broad , just awful.


We talked to a few 'tech guys' on the bands and they all agreed that 
this comes from a too low bias setting in the power amp.



With power levels below 12Watts all is good.
So i temporarily swapped the PA with a known working KPA3 (from my own 
K3 ,ser >3000). The results were good.


I understand that the bias is factory set, OTOH there are 2 pots labeled 
bias adjust . These pots are out of reach when KPA3A isoperational.

How can i check for the bias and fix this problem myself?

The Contest is this weekend. All help appreciated.

--

Ohne CW ist es nur CB..

73, Martin DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,10/10/2016 4:49 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:
If you're concerned about the additional loss of a barrel connector at 
50MHz, you should be using feedline with lower loss than LMR400 up the 
tower.


The loss in GOOD quality UHF connectors and barrels at 50 MHz is 
negligible. There are urban legends (false, as usual) claiming that 
every connector loses a dB. The grain of truth is that JUNK connectors 
may introduce significant loss, but GOOD connectors and barrels do NOT. 
"Good" means Amphenol 83-1SP for the PL-259s, and Amphenol or surplus 
MIL-spec for the barrels.


Several years ago, I made up more than a dozen 100 ft cables using a 
cable of somewhat better construction than LMR400 (Commscope 3227) for a 
DX trip. The connectors were Amphenol 83-1SP that I soldered myself. To 
test those cables, I spliced them together using Amphenol barrels and 
measured the loss of about 1300 ft of cable up to 500 MHz using HP 
generator and spectrum analyzer. The measured loss was LESS than the 
manufacturer's spec. There were 27 83-1SPs and 13 barrels in line.


JUNK connectors are the shiny,unbranded stuff you see at ham flea 
markets, and sold online and in ham magazines.


73, Jim K9YC

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