Re: [Elecraft] Sub Rx Diversity

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

 Chuck,
All you need to do is run your RX Ant into the BNC connector labeled RX IN,  
Then run a short cable with BNC males on each in between the RX OUT and the AUX 
in (under the PL259 connector for ant 1 and 2)..  Works great,  when you go to 
diverse receive, the main receiver is listening on your receive antenna, and 
sub receiver will be listening on your transmit antenna.
Seems a lot of individuals do not know this "trick", but I have been using this 
setup for several years.
Dick, K8ZTT 
On Monday, March 12, 2018, 6:40:04 PM MDT, Chuck Chandler 
 wrote:  
 
 All this talk about how great Diversity is had me wondering, but when I try
it out I realized I had to move the receiving antenna to the Aux RF jack.
The Kady boom mentions using an RF splitter to allow the receive antgenna
to be used for both purposes.

What have other members of the list used for this purpose?  Seems like a
fairly broadband, low noise amp would do pretty well.

73 de Chuck, WS1L

-- 


===
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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Hisashi T Fujinaka]

My trick is to use the Pigknob or K-Pod on the subrx frequency. That
keeps two big knobs away from each other.

The other trick is to put CW maros on the buttons. It made working the
W1AW/50 stations a lot of fun a couple of years ago.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2018, Wes Stewart wrote:


Lock VFO A on the DX.  My "Split" macros do exactly that.

Wes  N7WS

On 3/12/2018 5:01 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
And I got the sub-receiver because I kept confusing the tuning knobs when 
using REV. It greatly improved my life in pileups.


73 Bill AE6JV 


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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Wes Stewart]

Lock VFO A on the DX.  My "Split" macros do exactly that.

Wes  N7WS

On 3/12/2018 5:01 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
And I got the sub-receiver because I kept confusing the tuning knobs when 
using REV. It greatly improved my life in pileups.


73 Bill AE6JV 


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[Elecraft] K3 Sub RX stopped working on 20/17 meters

[Richard Donner]

Hi
This is my first help idea.  Perhaps your sub receiver is not connected
to an active antenna on 17 and 20 meters.
I have done stuff like that  and pulled my hair out until I realized the
above.
luck
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Rx Diversity

[Jim Brown]

On 3/12/2018 5:39 PM, Chuck Chandler wrote:

What have other members of the list used for this purpose?


I've used both BNC Tee connectors and lab-grade passive splitters made 
by MiniCircuits. Both work.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] Sub Rx Diversity

[Chuck Chandler]

All this talk about how great Diversity is had me wondering, but when I try
it out I realized I had to move the receiving antenna to the Aux RF jack.
The Kady boom mentions using an RF splitter to allow the receive antgenna
to be used for both purposes.

What have other members of the list used for this purpose?  Seems like a
fairly broadband, low noise amp would do pretty well.

73 de Chuck, WS1L

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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Bill Frantz]

And I got the sub-receiver because I kept confusing the tuning 
knobs when using REV. It greatly improved my life in pileups.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 3/12/18 at 4:56 PM, ve...@shaw.ca (Ralph Parker) wrote:


I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying to break a 
pileup when the dx

station is particularly weak.

The P3 + VGA is helpful in spotting when diversity is on and I can’t hear the 
pileup.


When my diversity is in use, I can get by fairly well in 
deciphering the pileup by using the "REV" function.

Then the diversity mode stays on.

VE7XF

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[Elecraft] K3 Sub RX stopped working on 20/17 meters

[Chris Hallinan]

Hi Folks,

Just learning my way around the KRX3A.  For reasons I can't determine, it
stopped working on 20 and 17 meters.  Works fine on the other bands.  I
have tried with both main and AUX antennas.  I know it worked when first
installed.  B_SET settings all seem normal, mode, bw, atten, etc.  I can't
get it work work again. It has static when the AF Gain(SUB) is advanced,
but no indication on the S-Meter when B_SET selected on an S-9 signal and
no signal in the headphones on the Sub side.  Have I somehow got it
confused and it's trying to use a different band's lo pass?  I have not
experimented with "cross-band" sub rx operation.  Maybe I inadvertently
switched bands with SUB enabled and got it mixed up???  Dunno.

The manual is open on my desk.  Can't find anything that might be wrong.
Firmware is all up to date.

Any ideas?

Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Ralph Parker]

>I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying to 
break a pileup when the dx station is particularly weak.
>The P3 + VGA is helpful in spotting when diversity is on and I can’t 
hear the pileup.


When my diversity is in use, I can get by fairly well in deciphering the 
pileup by using the "REV" function.

Then the diversity mode stays on.

VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Vic Rosenthal]

Actually, I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying 
to break a pileup when the dx station is particularly weak. The P3 + VGA is 
helpful in spotting when diversity is on and I can’t hear the pileup.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 12 Mar 2018, at 22:23, Ralph Parker  wrote:
> 
> >But now I need three receivers. Two for diversity and one to scan the pileup.
> 
> K4
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Sub RX

[Ralph Parker]

>But now I need three receivers. Two for diversity and one to scan the 
pileup.


K4


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 keying connection to amp question?

[John Oppenheimer]

Hi Ed,

The KX3 specification rates the key line at: "Accessory I/O (ACC2 Jack)
KEYLINE: 30 V, 100 mA max, open drain;" on page 54.

The amplifier should also have a specification. As long as the amp is
under 30V and 100 ma, all will be OK with a direct connection. If the
amp does not have a specification, amp key input measurements can be
performed with a voltmeter and an amp-meter.

John KN5L

On 03/12/2018 10:30 AM, Eddy Avila wrote:
> Greetings, can anyone suggest how to connect a KX3 to a non-Elecraft amp
> keying circuit? I'm thinking I should use a small reed relay to do the
> keying. The amp uses the typical grounding a pin on the amp to key up
> amplifier.
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[Elecraft] KX3 keying connection to amp question?

[Eddy Avila]

 Greetings, can anyone suggest how to connect a KX3 to a non-Elecraft amp
keying circuit? I'm thinking I should use a small reed relay to do the
keying. The amp uses the typical grounding a pin on the amp to key up
amplifier.

Many thanks, 73

k6sdw~ Ed
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Re: [Elecraft] D19 shorting out in K1

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

D19 is intended to sacrifice itself instead of the PA transistor from 
events like high SWR or power supply surges.


That means your antenna switching is likely producing a voltage spike 
when switching.


Possibilities that I can think of include switching an antenna which has 
a bias T network associated with it, or somehow your power supply is 
producing a spike when you switch the antenna.


There is nothing in the K1 itself which would cause it (unless the K1 is 
transmitting when the antenna is switched).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/12/2018 8:08 AM, Jim Ragsdale wrote:
I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have a K1 
with the KAT1 ATU and am using an A/B switch to swap antennas. Three 
times now when I swap antennas with the power on the K1, it shorts out 
diode D19 in the final. I can solve the problem by always powering down 
before the swap, but sometimes I forget to do that (has nothing do with 
my age. HI).

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Re: [Elecraft] D19 shorting out in K1

[Greg Troxel]

Jim Ragsdale  writes:

> I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have a K1
> with the KAT1 ATU and am using an A/B switch to swap antennas. Three
> times now when I swap antennas with the power on the K1, it shorts out
> diode D19 in the final. I can solve the problem by always powering
> down before the swap, but sometimes I forget to do that (has nothing
> do with my age. HI).
>
> Any thoughts?

Are you really sure there is no electrostatic charge on the antenna you
are switching to?  Do you have a bleeder resistor, or does the switch
ground the unused antenna?

73 de n1dam
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: CW Paddle A/B switch

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Doug,

I am currently using two of the following switches and they work
perfectly.They switch 1/8" stereo plugs so if you are currently using 1/4"
plugs you would need reducers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTKFKMG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8=1

I use my K3 for local operation and with an RRC device for remote operation.
I use one switch for my headphones and another for my microphone. I would
have a third switch for my paddle, however, I had previously made a toggle
switch box for that purpose.

73,
Mike K2MK

Doug Hensley wrote
> I have two radios and one cw paddle.  I'm looking for a small inline A/B
> switch as would be used on stereo headphone sets to switch between
> sources.  The whole thing would be a "Y" cable with two 1/8" male stereo
> plugs on one end and a single female jack on the other.  Switching would
> choose which male plug is active.  Yes I can build one but before I
> reinvent the wheel, I thought someone might have a source.
> 
> I'm tired of plugging and unplugging and I don't want or have the extra
> space for another paddle.
> 
> Has anyone found such a switch?
> 
> Reply by private email please as this is off topic.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Doug W5JV





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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 DC current at 20 50 watts

[John Oppenheimer]

Thank you Jan!

Also a thank you to the private direct reports.

I'm in a temporary limited shack condition. To KIS, using a K2/10 with a
battery. While sending an endless string of auto-keyer 10W CQs on 20M my
mind wondered to: what is the addition battery drain for 3 dB?

Testing a K3, the bias current for the 100W amplifier is about 5A. I
wondered what the KXPA100 bias current is? Based on the reported
numbers, it's about 7A.

There's been a bunch of list comments about the amazing K2. I agree!
Looking at the Elecraft shipping page, there's been a K2 run. Long live
the K2.

John KN5L

On 03/12/2018 07:56 AM, Jan wrote:
> At 10W    3.0A  and 14V    KX3 alone
> 
> At 20W    10A   and 14V    KX3 + KXPA100
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Re: [Elecraft] Fault on KPA500 after 300w

[Chris Hallinan]

I have experienced the exact same issue, and I posted about it here.  In my
case, it was being caused by my MFJ remote auto tuner.  I had also
suspected an Alpha Delta surge suppressor that was outside the shack prior
to cable entry, and I had removed that.  The MFJ had a relay clicking on
every key down.

Something is reacting to the high power, almost certainly related to high
SWR on the line as well. High SWR can produce some very high voltages at
standing wave voltage peaks along the transmission line.  You may be
experiencing an arching somewhere.If the balun saturates (again due to
power and high SWR combination) that could also trigger the amp shutdown.
Probably not your issue since that Balun should handle 5KW but I opened
mine up to make sure it wasn't full of water or to look for other visible
signs of arching, etc. Since yours in inside, likely it's ok, but you can't
rule it out.

I'm not 100% convinced I've resolved my issue - I sent the tuner back to
MFJ to exchange it, and I'm using an old Dentron 2KW manual tuner and
haven't had an issue with that setup.  If you have access to a manual
tuner, try that.  You might also try adding 1/8 wavelength of 450-ohm line
to the shack end to "relocate" the offending high voltage node.  A long
shot, but you're pretty much stuck with a trial and error process of
problem resolution.

73 de K1AY
Chris



On Mon, Mar 12, 2018 at 7:19 AM, Alan Lambert  wrote:

> I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with my Kx3/KXPa100. I know
> the person I bought it from well and I am 99.% sure it is not an
> issue with the amp or tuner.
>
>  I was making some notes (a chart) for input to output power levels,
> mostly just to ‘get to know’ the amp a little better.  At the time of
> these issues, I was on 80m SSB and the Kat500 was showing 1:1 / 1.2:1.
>
> The output watts  I have listed below are not ‘actuals’ I’m just
> recalling them from memory so may be off a few watts.
>
> I set the Kx3 to 8w and called “test test test 1 2 3  kn4bbc” I showed
> ~80w out with a 1:1 to 1.2:1 SWR.. GREAT!
>
> Moved up to 9w and got 100w out… same SWR – more Great!
>
> 10w I got 175w same SWR – sill looking good!
>
> 11w I got  250w same SWR – Awesome!
>
> Now this is where the problem comes in.
>
> I set to 12w… As I starting calling my “test test test 1 2 3…”  At
> first things looked great..I was getting 300w same SWR  but then
> suddenly I get high SWR followed by  “High Refl” on the KPA5, fault
> light comes on and I get warning tones.
>
> So I tuned the KAT500 again and tried the whole thing again with the
> same results.
>
> Gear wise:
>
> KX3/Kxpa100 with ATU disabled > KPA500/KAT500.
>
> Ant1 on Kat500  >  1ft LMR400 jumper >  1:1 ATU Current Balun  > 225
> feet of 450 ladder line > a ½ wave 80m center fed, inverted V  dipole.
> Center point is ~90 feet off ground.
>
> The Balun is a Balun Designs Model 1161
>
> The shack is on 2nd floor in middle of the house and has no exterior walls.
>
> The ladder line starts in the shack, there is about 2 feet  of in the
> shack then enters my attic space thru and opening in a sheetrock wall.
> Inside the attic space there is a long slow, wide loop about 50 feet
> long. I was careful to keep it away from metals and it does not cross
> itself however some of it  is lying on top of plywood. From there its
> exits the house in the ridge cap at the tip top of the roof at about
> (40 feet off ground)  The ladder line then hangs from a rope that runs
> from the eve to the tree line about 175 feet away which is where the
> center point of the dipole is.  In short 175 feet outside 50 feet
> inside.
>
>
> Ideas of what my problem might be?
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 DC current at 20 50 watts

[Jan]

Power readings here in Ypsilanti . . .Using the KX3/PX3/KXPA100 for 
several years now AND enjoy it very much; including a keyboard into the 
PX3 for some fun on CW too ~ but mostly use the Navy flame-proof key 
with SKCC activity (# 6099T)


Here are my reading on the METERS on the SEC-1235 power supply  . . . a 
good power supply . . .


At 5W   1.5A  and 14V    KX3 alone

At 10W    3.0A  and 14V    KX3 alone

At 20W    10A   and 14V    KX3 + KXPA100

At 50W    15A   and  14V  KX3 + KXPA100

AT 75 W   17A   and 14V  KX3 + KXPA100

At 100W  23A  and 14V   KX3 + KXPA100

Cheers, Jan  K1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Fault on KPA500 after 300w

[Brian D]

I had a similar problem but only on 160m. would work fine for a few minutes
at full power, fine at reduced power. After much hair tearing discovered
that it was a voltage transformer in an external coupler heating up and
losing inductance, effectively shorting the feeder. Cured by using a larger
toroid in the coupler.

Brian G3VGZ



"j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:

> A dummy load may verify that the KPA/KAT are working properly. I am
> guessing that something is arcing in your antenna system. Perhaps water
> ingress. Have you run high power into it with a different amp?
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> 
> 
> On March 12 Alan Lambert wrote:
> 
> I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with my Kx3/KXPa100. I know the
> person I bought it from well and I am 99.% sure it is not an issue
> with the amp or tuner.
> 
>  I was making some notes (a chart) for input to output power levels,
> mostly just to ‘get to know’ the amp a little better.  At the time of
> these issues, I was on 80m SSB and the Kat500 was showing 1:1 / 1.2:1.
> 
> The output watts  I have listed below are not ‘actuals’ I’m just recalling
> them from memory so may be off a few watts.
> 
> I set the Kx3 to 8w and called “test test test 1 2 3  kn4bbc” I showed
> ~80w out with a 1:1 to 1.2:1 SWR.. GREAT!
> 
> Moved up to 9w and got 100w out… same SWR – more Great!
> 
> 10w I got 175w same SWR – sill looking good!
> 
> 11w I got  250w same SWR – Awesome!
> 
> Now this is where the problem comes in.
> 
> I set to 12w… As I starting calling my “test test test 1 2 3…”  At first
> things looked great..I was getting 300w same SWR  but then suddenly I get
> high SWR followed by  “High Refl” on the KPA5, fault light comes on and I
> get warning tones.
> 
> So I tuned the KAT500 again and tried the whole thing again with the same
> results.
> 
> Gear wise:
> 
> KX3/Kxpa100 with ATU disabled > KPA500/KAT500.
> 
> Ant1 on Kat500  >  1ft LMR400 jumper >  1:1 ATU Current Balun  > 225 feet
> of 450 ladder line > a ½ wave 80m center fed, inverted V  dipole. Center
> point is ~90 feet off ground.
> 
> The Balun is a Balun Designs Model 1161
> 
> The shack is on 2nd floor in middle of the house and has no exterior
> walls.
> 
> The ladder line starts in the shack, there is about 2 feet  of in the
> shack then enters my attic space thru and opening in a sheetrock wall.
> Inside the attic space there is a long slow, wide loop about 50 feet long.
> I was careful to keep it away from metals and it does not cross itself
> however some of it  is lying on top of plywood. From there its exits the
> house in the ridge cap at the tip top of the roof at about (40 feet off
> ground)  The ladder line then hangs from a rope that runs from the eve to
> the tree line about 175 feet away which is where the center point of the
> dipole is.  In short 175 feet outside 50 feet inside.
> 
> 
> Ideas of what my problem might be?
> 
> __ Elecraft
> mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> gro...@planet3.freeuk.co.uk
> 


-- 
Brian D
G3VGZ  YarmEngland
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Paddle A/B switch

[Dave Sublette]

I built, about 20 years ago, a small Bud box, 2 x 2 x 1 3/4, three female
jacks on the back and a DPDT mini toggle switch with center off position.

It has worked perfectly.  The center off position keeps me from sending
when I bump the paddle accidently.


73,

K4TO



On Mon, Mar 12, 2018 at 8:21 AM, James K4JK  wrote:

> I have done this with a repurposed A/V selector switch and custom-made
> cables.
>
> Amazon has a cheap one that worked for me:
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y8oczmle
>
> S-video is 4 conductor, so that was used to switch the key between the
> radios. I just wired up old 3 conductor 1/4" cables to svideo (mini-DIN)
> plugs purchased from ebay. Make sure you keep the pins straight or your
> paddle could be reversed when you switch between radios!
>
> Audio was handled by the RCA jacks and adapter cables. Monoprice has all
> kinds of cheap cables/adaptors if you don't want to make your own. But you
> will probably have to build mini-DIN -> Stereo cables yourself.
>
> 73
> James
> K4JK
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 9:55 PM,  wrote:
>
> > How are you switching your headphones and possibly microphone?  There
> are a
> > lot of SO2R devices that will switch everything plus allow you to use
> both
> > rigs simultaneously if desired. I use a this one:
> > http://microham-usa.com/store/product-info.php?pid10.html but perhaps
> even
> > the simple Dunstar
> > https://www.dunestar.com/store/product-list.php?
> > Headphone-Switch-pg1-cid5.ht
> > ml can be modified to work with a key.
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> >
> > Doug W5JV Wrote:
> >
> > I have two radios and one cw paddle.  I'm looking for a small inline A/B
> > switch as would be used on stereo headphone sets to switch between
> sources.
> > The whole thing would be a "Y" cable with two 1/8" male stereo plugs on
> one
> > end and a single female jack on the other.  Switching would choose which
> > male plug is active.  Yes I can build one but before I reinvent the
> wheel,
> > I
> > thought someone might have a source.
> >
> > I'm tired of plugging and unplugging and I don't want or have the extra
> > space for another paddle.
> >
> > Has anyone found such a switch?
> >
> > Reply by private email please as this is off topic.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Doug W5JV
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to k4jk.ja...@gmail.com
> >
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Paddle A/B switch

[James K4JK]

I have done this with a repurposed A/V selector switch and custom-made
cables.

Amazon has a cheap one that worked for me:

https://tinyurl.com/y8oczmle

S-video is 4 conductor, so that was used to switch the key between the
radios. I just wired up old 3 conductor 1/4" cables to svideo (mini-DIN)
plugs purchased from ebay. Make sure you keep the pins straight or your
paddle could be reversed when you switch between radios!

Audio was handled by the RCA jacks and adapter cables. Monoprice has all
kinds of cheap cables/adaptors if you don't want to make your own. But you
will probably have to build mini-DIN -> Stereo cables yourself.

73
James
K4JK


On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 9:55 PM,  wrote:

> How are you switching your headphones and possibly microphone?  There are a
> lot of SO2R devices that will switch everything plus allow you to use both
> rigs simultaneously if desired. I use a this one:
> http://microham-usa.com/store/product-info.php?pid10.html but perhaps even
> the simple Dunstar
> https://www.dunestar.com/store/product-list.php?
> Headphone-Switch-pg1-cid5.ht
> ml can be modified to work with a key.
>
> John KK9A
>
>
> Doug W5JV Wrote:
>
> I have two radios and one cw paddle.  I'm looking for a small inline A/B
> switch as would be used on stereo headphone sets to switch between sources.
> The whole thing would be a "Y" cable with two 1/8" male stereo plugs on one
> end and a single female jack on the other.  Switching would choose which
> male plug is active.  Yes I can build one but before I reinvent the wheel,
> I
> thought someone might have a source.
>
> I'm tired of plugging and unplugging and I don't want or have the extra
> space for another paddle.
>
> Has anyone found such a switch?
>
> Reply by private email please as this is off topic.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug W5JV
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to k4jk.ja...@gmail.com
>
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[Elecraft] D19 shorting out in K1

[Jim Ragsdale]

I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have a K1 
with the KAT1 ATU and am using an A/B switch to swap antennas. Three 
times now when I swap antennas with the power on the K1, it shorts out 
diode D19 in the final. I can solve the problem by always powering down 
before the swap, but sometimes I forget to do that (has nothing do with 
my age. HI).


Any thoughts?

73, Jim W5LA

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[Elecraft] Fault on KPA500 after 300w

[j...@kk9a.com]

A dummy load may verify that the KPA/KAT are working properly. I am
guessing that something is arcing in your antenna system. Perhaps water
ingress. Have you run high power into it with a different amp?

John KK9A



On March 12 Alan Lambert wrote:

I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with my Kx3/KXPa100. I know
the person I bought it from well and I am 99.% sure it is not an
issue with the amp or tuner.

 I was making some notes (a chart) for input to output power levels,
mostly just to ‘get to know’ the amp a little better.  At the time of
these issues, I was on 80m SSB and the Kat500 was showing 1:1 / 1.2:1.

The output watts  I have listed below are not ‘actuals’ I’m just
recalling them from memory so may be off a few watts.

I set the Kx3 to 8w and called “test test test 1 2 3  kn4bbc” I showed
~80w out with a 1:1 to 1.2:1 SWR.. GREAT!

Moved up to 9w and got 100w out… same SWR – more Great!

10w I got 175w same SWR – sill looking good!

11w I got  250w same SWR – Awesome!

Now this is where the problem comes in.

I set to 12w… As I starting calling my “test test test 1 2 3…”  At
first things looked great..I was getting 300w same SWR  but then
suddenly I get high SWR followed by  “High Refl” on the KPA5, fault
light comes on and I get warning tones.

So I tuned the KAT500 again and tried the whole thing again with the
same results.

Gear wise:

KX3/Kxpa100 with ATU disabled > KPA500/KAT500.

Ant1 on Kat500  >  1ft LMR400 jumper >  1:1 ATU Current Balun  > 225
feet of 450 ladder line > a ½ wave 80m center fed, inverted V  dipole.
Center point is ~90 feet off ground.

The Balun is a Balun Designs Model 1161

The shack is on 2nd floor in middle of the house and has no exterior walls.

The ladder line starts in the shack, there is about 2 feet  of in the
shack then enters my attic space thru and opening in a sheetrock wall.
Inside the attic space there is a long slow, wide loop about 50 feet
long. I was careful to keep it away from metals and it does not cross
itself however some of it  is lying on top of plywood. From there its
exits the house in the ridge cap at the tip top of the roof at about
(40 feet off ground)  The ladder line then hangs from a rope that runs
from the eve to the tree line about 175 feet away which is where the
center point of the dipole is.  In short 175 feet outside 50 feet
inside.


Ideas of what my problem might be?

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[Elecraft] Fault on KPA500 after 300w

[Alan Lambert]

I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with my Kx3/KXPa100. I know
the person I bought it from well and I am 99.% sure it is not an
issue with the amp or tuner.

 I was making some notes (a chart) for input to output power levels,
mostly just to ‘get to know’ the amp a little better.  At the time of
these issues, I was on 80m SSB and the Kat500 was showing 1:1 / 1.2:1.

The output watts  I have listed below are not ‘actuals’ I’m just
recalling them from memory so may be off a few watts.

I set the Kx3 to 8w and called “test test test 1 2 3  kn4bbc” I showed
~80w out with a 1:1 to 1.2:1 SWR.. GREAT!

Moved up to 9w and got 100w out… same SWR – more Great!

10w I got 175w same SWR – sill looking good!

11w I got  250w same SWR – Awesome!

Now this is where the problem comes in.

I set to 12w… As I starting calling my “test test test 1 2 3…”  At
first things looked great..I was getting 300w same SWR  but then
suddenly I get high SWR followed by  “High Refl” on the KPA5, fault
light comes on and I get warning tones.

So I tuned the KAT500 again and tried the whole thing again with the
same results.

Gear wise:

KX3/Kxpa100 with ATU disabled > KPA500/KAT500.

Ant1 on Kat500  >  1ft LMR400 jumper >  1:1 ATU Current Balun  > 225
feet of 450 ladder line > a ½ wave 80m center fed, inverted V  dipole.
Center point is ~90 feet off ground.

The Balun is a Balun Designs Model 1161

The shack is on 2nd floor in middle of the house and has no exterior walls.

The ladder line starts in the shack, there is about 2 feet  of in the
shack then enters my attic space thru and opening in a sheetrock wall.
Inside the attic space there is a long slow, wide loop about 50 feet
long. I was careful to keep it away from metals and it does not cross
itself however some of it  is lying on top of plywood. From there its
exits the house in the ridge cap at the tip top of the roof at about
(40 feet off ground)  The ladder line then hangs from a rope that runs
from the eve to the tree line about 175 feet away which is where the
center point of the dipole is.  In short 175 feet outside 50 feet
inside.


Ideas of what my problem might be?
__
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