Re: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 25/12/06 10:53:49 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

1. when  looking at the transmitted signal using a spectrum analyser,
the signal didn't seem as clean as we liked it.  We didn't  have
time (it was the day before X-mas!) to really  start counting the
dB's, but on 30, 12 and 10 m we saw  some signals around the main
signal. Is there any  chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by
further  tweaking the filters?



-
 
Hi Jurgen,
 
Are you 100% sure that the spurii you are seeing are just not due to you  
overloading the input of the spectrum analyser?
 
This is a common cause of apparent excessive spurii!
 
Merry Christmas to all,
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 -- VW Solar Panel -- Controller Help

2006-11-06 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 06/11/06 09:06:10 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The VW panel reads about 20V in full sun. When connected to Don Brown's  low 
power controller, it drops to 12.75V (full sun). I have a few panels and  
tried them allsame results. Even paralleled two.




:-
---
 
Hi Ken,
 
I would think the VW panels are too puny to provide sufficeint power to  
fully charge a battery as they were designed only to trickle charge an auto  
battery in transit.
 
The 20V you describe out of the solar panel is the open circuit voltage.  
Most 12V solar panels depending on type will give 17V to 21V under these  
circumstances. However, when you connect it to a battery, the voltage will fall 
 to 
the charge voltage of the battery depending on it's current state of charge.  
Disconnect the controller and connect the panel direct to the battery if you  
want to check for sure. With most types of controllers the effect will be the  
same in that the readings will be identical less the current needed to run the 
 controller.
 
Unless you get hold of some solar panels with the necessary capacity the  
result is going to be the same in that you can only trickle charge the  
batteries. Apart from long term float charging where the controllers would only 
 come 
into use after a long period of charge. For most cases with low power solar  
panels a controller is not needed unless the panel does not have a series diode 
 
fitted. Many more of the VW solar panels in parallel or a larger solar 
panel(s)  to increase the power is the only answer if you need to use this 
facility 
in  real terms. The VW solar panels will most probably have series isolation 
diodes  fitted to prevent discharge of the auto battery back through the solar 
panel at  night or when not insolated sufficiently
 
As a quick test to see what your panel is capable of, remove the solar  panel 
from circuit and place a current meter directly across the solar panel  
terminals. The current reading will be limited to the available capacity of the 
 
panel. This is how we checked the 15kW solar arrays at the workplace when they  
were originally commissioned. These were built up from about 200 of the 75W  
solar panels arranged in series/banks to provide the necessary voltage/current  
capacity and each individual one had to be tested to ensured that it met  
specification. Was not unusual to see 120A going into the 7500Ah 48V battery  
plant in the morning sun. For that we really did require multiple solar  
controllers of sturdy proportions!
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
(ex civilian desert rat)
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RE: [Elecraft] k2, freq readout calibration

2006-10-14 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 14/10/06 09:01:37 GMT Daylight Time, pc5m, Carel  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:

Verified  setting of C22 with both
methods (parallel freq counter on TP1 and  measuring the offset of TP1 and
TP2 with a 10MHz  signal).


---
 
Hi Carel,
 
Have a care connecting an extra frequency counter in parallel with the K2  
counter as the loading capacitance of some counters may pull the readings  off 
what they really are. The K2 frequency counter via the supplied probe gives  
relatively light loading on the circuits you are measuring. The extra frequency 
 
counter may not cause a problem in the case of TP1, but better  to play safe 
and isolate the parallel frequency counter with a high  impedance probe.
 
I fell into this trap when setting my K2 4MHz control board clock  oscillator 
with a Racal Dane counter. This has a ovened xtal clock, hence  retains a 
fair degree of accuracy from calibration. However the extra load  capacitance 
of 
the frequency counter input undid all that and gave an  erroneous reading. A 
high impedance scope probe gave enough level to operate the  frequency counter, 
yet still provided sufficient isolation not to affect the  K2.
 
May not be causing problems in your case, but something to be aware  of.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] Re: Solar Panels (Douglas Todd

2006-07-05 Thread G3VVT
From: charles allison [EMAIL PROTECTED] who wrote:

These are needed because the open circuit
voltage could be 20 VDC  for a 12.6 volt panel without the regulator.
 
--
-
 
This is not really correct as this open circuit voltage will fall to the  
normal charging voltage for the battery(s) depending on their charge state as  
soon as these are connected, with or without a charge regulator.
 
Otherwise the reply to the original question is excellent.
 
Charge regulators are definitely needed when the capacity of the solar  
panel(s) exceed the current drain of the equipment connected and the  battery 
charging current requirement. The result of failing to have charge  regulation 
under these circumstances is that permanent damage to the battery(s)  can occur 
and also possible damage to the equipment connected due to excess  voltage.
 
Using 5 to 15W solar panels the average amateur would probably never need a  
charge regulator as the panel could struggle to provide anything more than  
replenish the power used in running the equipment. However, the charge 
regulator 
 could be looked on as an insurance policy to protect the batteries and the  
connected equipment, so if affordable will not be lost.
 
With solar charge regulators what is needed is a type that will  
automatically restore charging when the battery voltage starts to fall  
sufficiently, 
though with some hysterisis to prevent the charge regulator going  into 
oscillation.
 
I worked on solar powered communication equipment in the Middle East from  
1981 for over 20 years and a problem was that some types of solar charge  
regulator after disconnecting the solar charge would not come back on charge  
again 
until the next day after a night time reset. Not a desirable situation for  a 
24/7 system.
 
There was certainly some junk marketed commercially in the early  days!
 
A lot of our early systems had the compact (3ft x 1ft) USA made Arco 55W  12V 
panels (Exxon) which I rated very highly for dependability. The only things  
that seemed to slow them down were bullets or rocks directed at them, though  
even then they often carried out working to a degree. These are now marketed 
by  the Siemens after Exxon apparently pulled out of the business. Sadly a lot 
of  these early systems were let down by shortcomings of the solar charge 
regulators  apart from the simple shunt regulator type which bypassed excess 
charge  voltage as heat. These however could contribute to problems in site  
cooling.
 
The latter systems worked on before retirement were 15kW 200 panel solar  
arrays to run microwave sites. These used the larger 75W 12V BP solar panels  
which also seem to work well. They were configured into 12 banks of 48V by  
paralleling them in series banks of 4 to provide the nominal comms -48V supply. 
 
Everything was on a much larger scale in these systems as with a 7500Ah battery 
 
plant it need to be. The regulation was done by switching banks of panels 
with  large switching contactors to regulate the charge voltage when the float 
charge  period was reached. It was not uncommon to see up to 140A at 54V or 
higher  during the early morning boost charge phase when all 12 banks of the 
200 
solar  panels were on line.
 
A point to note with solar panels is that most seem to be rated at 25C  
temperature. The available current falls with increased panel temperature above 
 
this, as will be seen in the hotter desert regions of the USA. Conversely in  
winter time on cool clear days the available current can rise substantially 
from 
 the nominal rating. This means that solar power can be a reality in more  
temperate regions due to lower solar panel surface temperatures.
 
All a thing of the past after returning to the UK in 2002 on mandatory  
retirement at 60. No work in UK comms for wrinklies, so a change of direction 
 to 
working at the local Walmart store checkout area. At least it provides  food 
for the kitchen table and funds for new radio equipment.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT

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Re: [Elecraft] Variable Inductors Stuck

2005-12-25 Thread G3VVT
Hi Gary,
 
A tip passed on to me when I was having the same problems with some very  
small inductor cores in a commercial 2 way was to place a small amount of  
petroleum jelly on the thread topside of the core and carefully warm it with a  
heat 
gun or hair dryer before attempting to shift it.
 
It is very important to use the correct trimmer tool for  moving inductor 
cores as some of the ferrite types are very brittle and  unforgiving. Quite a 
lot 
of the small inductor cores also have a trimmer slot  both sides which means 
the core can be reversed if one side gets broken or  can be sometimes be 
accessed from the opposite side, though you cannot usually  make much headway 
if 
the core splits. At this point the easiest option is to  order a new variable 
inductor.
 
The worst situation is if the inductor core jams solid and no spares are  
available. One way out at this point is to add another ferrite/iron  dust core 
if 
the inductance is too low or a brass core if too high. Not a  problem with 
Elecraft products, but what can be a solution with obsolete  equipment when in 
that situation.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 20, Issue 22 Headphone for hard of h...

2005-12-22 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 22/12/05 11:42:04 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I  partially  understand how a speaker works 
and in order to decrease  its audio  output I will have to remove or 
partially 
remove the paper  which joins  the core to the outer body - but will it still 
vibrate  ?.  Any  suggestions would be most  welcome.



Hi John,
 
The most probable answer is no as the paper cone centralises the voice coil  
within the gap between the magnet poles. Without this centring effect the  
voice coil would just jam against the magnet poles and the output would be  
extremely low. This effect is noticeable when the voice coil is placed off  
centre 
by the paper cone. A low and distorted output is all that occurs as has  been 
noted on some K2 with damaged speakers.
 
Another solution may be to use one of the old type headphones with a metal  
diaphragm under the screw on earpiece. Another way would be to convert the 
morse  signal to some visual form such as for displaying on an oscilloscope or 
use 
a  morse reader. Compared to the human brain however, all the morse readers I 
have  tried come off very much second best.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply Question

2005-12-13 Thread G3VVT
Hi all,
 
A diode was my first try, but there are several problems with that  approach.
 
The first being the additional volt drop can make battery charging more of  a 
problem with a fixed supply, though a schottky diode would help to some 
degree  on that score. The biggest problem was the generation of heat was 
greater 
than  would have comfortable with and there was not enough room within the PSU 
case to  add the additional heat sinking required for the diode. However, the 
DC current  requirements were rather higher for the repeater application than 
would be  required to drive a basic K2.
 
Yes, a diode could certainly be used with care.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply Question

2005-12-12 Thread G3VVT
Hi Fred,
 
Your PSU has probably suffered the same fate as our local 70cm repeater PSU  
did when we floated a battery across the output for emergencies. When the PSU  
was switched off it blew the DC fuse on the output of the PSU.
 
The reason is the battery is capable of feeding enough power back into the  
PSU to exceed the current rating and rupture the output fuse which normally  
protects the PSU. The solution in our case was to fit a relay on the PSU DC  
output with it's coil powered from the AC supply. When the AC supply fails,  
the 
DC output link is cut off from the PSU.
 
Not all PSU suffer this problem as we never had a problem with the 2m  
repeater with floating a large gel cell across that, but yours apparently  did!
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK Microphone input

2005-10-28 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 28/10/05 12:35:50 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

The K2  is capable of quite high quality transmit
audio, but it isn't as apparent  with the electret microphones. Icom et
al have made the break with  electrets starting with their Pro II and  later
rigs.



 
The selection of a microphone type may take a little more care as it  depends 
a lot on the tonal range of your voice to which type is suitable and  more 
particularly so in the case of SSB. One type may be OK for one person yet  may 
be useless for another.
 
I struggled for many years to find a suitable microphone for SSB where  there 
was no problem with 2m FM. Ended up with a varied selection of dynamic  
microphones from Shure, Kenwood, Yaesu and many other manufacturers. The type  
that 
finally worked was the old Adonis AM-303G electret microphone. However,  when 
I tried to use the same type of electret microphone on 2m FM was firmly  told 
what to do with it.
 
Have yet to try the Heil dynamic microphones to see what the effect is with  
them. Have an old Heil desk microphone (HM-5?) which came from an S/K sale 
that  had been modified to high impedance use. Will change it back to original  
configuration and see how that works out. The insert in this is the HC-3  which 
have been unable to find any info about. Did approach Bob Heil for  details 
about the microphone and though he gave favourable comments  for the microphone 
itself, was not forthcoming with any information or data  about the HC-3 
insert.
 
Does anybody have any information about this Heil HC-3  insert?
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Handheld Antenna connector

2005-10-25 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 25/10/05 14:38:28 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Can  someone tell me the name of the antenna 
connector on the newer VHF/UHF  handhelds?  



Hi Chas,
 
It is called an SMA. There are adaptors widely available that have the  
necessary SMA male plug fitted, the most common having a BNC female socket  on 
the 
other end.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] DMM for XG2 testing

2005-10-23 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 23/10/05 15:32:01 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Most  multimeters, when used for AC measurements, do in fact read RMS  values.
Specialized meters do exist which will read peak (or average, or  whatever),
but the common meters do read RMS only.  If you measure  your household AC
voltage (in the US) with your meter, and you find a  reading somewhere about
115 or 120 volts, you can be assured that the meter  is displaying RMS
values.



-
 
The only thing to be careful with some DMM are that whilst they will  measure 
RMS voltage at AC power frequencies, will be inaccurate at frequencies  in 
the kHz range. A early Tandy (Radio Shack) DMM I purchased was wildly  
inaccurate when trying to measure audio frequencies whilst checking large audio 
 PA 
systems, where the 8000 series Fluke was perfectly OK in measuring audio up  to 
at least up to 5kHz.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic plug

2005-10-15 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 15/10/05 09:44:48 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

We did  have in the form of Tandy, but they are long gone. 
We do, however,   still have Mc Donalds


Hi All,
 
The local Mc Donald seem to be out of stock on 8 pin mic plugs, though did  
offer a Big Mac as an alternate.
 
The differences between what is available in various countries can be a  
problem. One gets comfortable with what is available in your own country in  
terms 
of products and vendors when such things may just not exist in other  
countries.
 
One of the minor problems here in the UK in respect to working on USA  
sourced radios and test equipment is a lack of small bolts and nuts to USA  
thread 
standards. Europe and the Far East seem to be standardised on metric  for the 
equipment produced there, which makes life a whole lot easier.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic plug

2005-10-14 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 14/10/05 23:24:44 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The type  is 8 pin Foster connector. I don't know if the UK has a
different name for  it.



Hi Lee,
 
Known as a locking line socket 8-way in one of the main component  
supplier's catalogue in the UK. Not heard the term Foster used in the UK though 
 
presume that may be the Japanese microphone manufacturer who may have been the  
originator.
 
They are a socket rather than a plug as that plug part is mounted on the K2  
or whatever transceiver uses this type of connector. Despite this  are 
commonly referred to as an 8 way mic plug. Still prefer them by a long  way to 
the 
RJ45 connector that has just about become standard for anything used  mobile.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Samlex SEC 1223

2005-10-12 Thread G3VVT
 
 
In a message dated 12/10/05 16:25:36 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Quite a  few of you are using the Samlex SEC 1223.

I have a European version  with 240v input.

There is supposed to be a pair of jumper points inside  which allows you to
switch to 120v input. I can't find my handbook . Can  anyone confirm the two
jumper point refernces and also where are they  located on the board?



Reply  ---
 
Hi Vic,
 
I had the same problem when taking a European version to Saudi Arabia and  
ended up contacting a technician in Samelex America for the info.
To quote their reply:
 
The European model is permanently set for 230V 60Hz input (the manual you  
have is for the American version)
 
Conversion to 110V can be done by a technician. It will be at your own risk  
and will void the warranty. For conversion to 115V, the terminals C and E 
on  the circuit board are required to be connected together (shorted).
 
The brown wire connection from one side of the interference suppression  
choke to the male terminal post at point C should not be disconnected. You 
may  
connect another piece of wire between points C and E (aim is to short 
points  C and E). You will have to solder these connections using 18 AWG 
wire 
as we  do not have a special jumper for the European model. Also you should 
increase  the fuse capacity to 6.3A in order to draw the full 23A at 110V 
input. 
4A fuse  is used when powering from 230V.
 
 
!!Remember to undo this modification if you are going to convert it  back 
to 220V operation otherwise you will blow the unit !!
 
 
 
So Vic there you have it as described by Samelex in 2001 when I was in the  
same position.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT

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Re: [Elecraft] Phillips Screws

2005-09-30 Thread G3VVT
Will reply to the topic of corrosion with chassis screws on this  thread.
 
The reply from John, G4BOU on the subject of lubricating chassis  screws to 
help prevent corrosion was:
 
 'petroleum jelly' despite being a very good insulator has a  lubrication  
factor of 1 
and any pressure (via the screw threads) will  break through the skin  and 
make 
good contact. It will of course also  cover the joint and limit corrosion.
 
It sticks in my mind there was some controversy with the use of petroleum  
jelly for use in preventing corrosion on lead acid battery terminals as it was  
reputed to be hygroscopic, i.e. attracts water. This may not be a good 
property  for preventing corrosion on screw threads as it may even make the 
effect  
worse.
 
Perhaps somebody on the list who is more expert on the chemistry could  
comment.
 
Must admit however to filling the high gain UHF 8 stack antenna  connection 
boxes on a Cable TV head end to the brim with the same petroleum  jelly to 
prevent moisture entry in 1971 and that never ever suffered over many  years in 
what is reputed to be the wettest area in England. (the true rainfall  figure 
may have been inflated by small boys assisting in the collection  data by 
adding 
a certain yellow colored liquid)
 
Really all of this is academic as the biggest cause of non conductivity  with 
the chassis screws must be the coating on the outside of the case panels.  
This must be quite a good insulator and no way would I for one want to try  
removing it to ensure a good metallic contact. The inside of the case is a  
different matter and consequently with case bonding the connectivity must  rely 
on 
pressure between the inner of the case and the chassis 2D fastener,  not the 
screw thread directly.
 
The problems that come up with trashing the Phillips screw head is usually  
made worse by using the wrong type of Phillips driver. There must be a wide  
variety of types internationally to compound the issue. In the UK we seem to  
have two types. The earlier Phillips British type which still appears in  
instrument screws and has a quite sharp pointed shallow angle tip. The current  
usage is with what is referred to as the Posidriv type which has an almost  
square end with a slight dome on the tip and has a much wider angle on the tip  
blades. Equivalent screws to this are used commonly on Japanese equipment  and 
are marked with a single dot on the screw head. Using one of the  earlier 
Phillips drivers on these screws is a recipe for disaster. With the  Stanley 
drivers we buy here, the Phillips has a red plastic handle and the  Posidriv 
has a 
blue one to easily identify the type.
 
The K2 case screws seem to fit my Phillips British type driver  better and 
even using a small Posidriv driver with a no.1  point would soon trash the 
heads 
due to the poor fit. May be different with  Phillips drivers available in 
other countries.
 
Bob, G3VVT

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Re: [Elecraft] 5119 is alive!

2005-09-28 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 28/09/05 16:43:04 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

After 6  months, I'm finding the chassis screws are getting stuck in
the 2-D mounts  from corrosion or galling between the aluminum mounts and the
steel (I  guess) screws.


:---
Hi Bob,
 
As I understand it in certain climates there is a problem with electrolytic  
corrosion between disimilar metals, with some combinations worse than others.  
For use in my motorcycles the use of Copperslip or some similar anti-seize  
compound is essential for this purpose. Also use this for stainless to 
stainless  steel bolts/nuts to prevent what you termed as galling.
 
Had a near disaster with this very subject about five years back where our  
work airstrip Southern Avionics non directional beacon antenna was damaged in a 
 violent sandstorm. The technicians decided to impress me by getting the new  
antenna assembled before I arrived on site. Alas they had assembled the upper 
 loading coil part of it upside down and try as we might the bolts on 
stainless  steel straps retaining the loading coils would not come apart. 
Eventually  
after some hours work managed to loosen the straps enough to get it assembled 
 correctly. This was a warning to me at least of the problems that can arise 
with  stainless steel bolts. All it needs is a little oil, grease or 
preferably  anti-seize compound on assembly to prevent the problem.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ.com Summit Award!

2005-09-25 Thread G3VVT
Hi Ed,
 
Have a look at the Summits on the Air (Sota) web site in the UK who have  had 
a summits activation scheme in operation for a number of years which is now  
starting to be taken up internationally:
 
http://stockportradiosociety.co.uk/sotaweb/
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Ordering form PA (AND UK!)

2005-09-04 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 04/09/05 17:27:02 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Import  duty rules are the same for all of Europe and I would expect that 
Elecraft  already know the correct codes and descriptions to  use.



Reply:--
 
Yes, Elecraft appear to be well aware of the correct commodity codes  that 
should be included with the shipping documents and mark everything  accordingly.
 
In the case of equipment of this type there is a concession in place at  
present for this to be imported free of import duty, at least in the UK. The 
VAT  
applicable still has to be paid on the price of the equipment and any  
shipping costs plus the customs handling charge of the shipping route  used.
 
It would be great if all this worked, but am sad to say you are still at  the 
mercy of the official at the point of import who may not understand or want  
to understand the rules and can place import duty on the package. This ramps 
up  considerably the price you have to pay before the package will be released. 
The  easist route at this point appears to be to pay this cost and go though 
the saga  of reclaiming the amount from Customs, which took about 3 months in 
my case. The  UK Customs involved were unreachable by telephone, did not 
answer  e-mail and the only route appears to be snail mail. Getting agitated 
does 
you no  good, only tends to raise your blood pressure.
 
Others have got their consignment without any hindrance of this type. Just  
the luck of the draw on the day or which way your personal Customs  official 
gets out of bed in the morning.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 speaker

2005-07-24 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 24/07/05 23:06:17 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Sometimes the speaker frame gets warped after shipping or some other  
mechanical shock.  The speaker magnet is very heavy, which helps  
contribute to the efficiency of the speaker.  If it is warped, you  can 
straighten it by hand. 


Reply:--
 
Used to be a common problem in mainly tube type TV receivers in the past  due 
to heat build up in the cabinet. As Lyle mentions it can be corrected in  
modern speakers by adjusting the speaker frame to stop the effect, though a  
better solution can sometimes be to change the speaker. The effect is caused by 
 
the speaker voice coil being out of alignment and rubbing on the speaker magnet 
 pole pieces. This causes distortion particularly on lower audio frequencies. 
 Earlier broadcast radio speakers had an adjustable voice coil on the  
speaker cone that was adjusted with non magnetic feeler gauges (latterly  
plastic) 
to center the voice coil in the speaker magnet pole pieces. With all of  these 
different types a test of the speaker cone with the finger tips,  carefully 
moving the cone through it's range soon detects any  misalignment.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?

2005-07-15 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 15/07/05 15:37:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I had  one rig that wouldn't function much below about 11.0 volts
due to that  effect.  Under transmit loads on the battery and with the
voltage drop  in the power cables, 11 vdc at the rig happens a lot sooner
than you'd  think for a QRO rig.


Reply: 
 
The basic K2 at least seems a lot more tolerant than most radios with  an 
operating voltage range quoted in the specifications from 9 to 15VDC. An Icom  
IC-706 mkII I have will not work below 11.75VDC as the PLL section voltage  
regulator goes out of regulation below this point causing severe FM on the TX  
signal.
 
With a 12V lead acid type battery it is unwise to expect too much life left  
available when the voltage measured directly at the battery is approaching 11V 
 as the droop in voltage starts to accelerate at that point. Most  comm 
systems that I worked on with lead acid battery plant are usually set to  
disconnect the batteries at 1.75V per cell or 10.75V with a 12V system to  
prevent 
permanent damage to the batteries. Even if they did not take this  action the 
available battery charge would not last too long in any case.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] knob

2005-07-12 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 12/07/05 00:56:02 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I must  be missing something. Whats wrong with the knob that comes on the K2?
Why  change it? Guess I just don't get it.

Jerry - NR5A - South  Dakota



Reply: ---
 
For limited casual use not a thing as the knob is well balanced as regards  
weight/size and fits the available front panel space perfectly, however if you  
have to move frequency a lot searching for stations the hard edges of the 
knob  become a somewhat wearing to the fingers.
 
Had exactly the same problem with an earlier JRC JST-135 HF transceiver and  
that was solved by installing a knob from the later JRC NRD-535 RX. The only  
difference between the two was the NRD-535 had a rubber ring (tire) on the 
outer  edge. What a difference this makes when searching for stations!
 
With this in mind it would perhaps be a good idea for Elecraft to consider  
the provision of a suitable rubber ring to fit externally on the  circumference 
of their stock VFO knob as outside the USA not all users will  have the 
access to the reported solutions to the problem. My attempts to find a  
suitable 
rubber band of the type reported to come with asparagus  supplied in the USA 
(asparagus tips?) have got nowhere. Have got a crony of mine  visiting the USA 
at 
present switched on to finding sources.
 
Of the two Yaesu solutions with the FT100D and the FT900 rubber tires  which 
is the best? The prices quoted for supplies of these in the USA will have  
absolutely no bearing on the final UK cost.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] NiMH Battery Question

2005-07-04 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 04/07/05 19:56:32 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

There  are some small charge controllers out there, but a 
relay configured to  open when the battery reaches full charge is the  
simplest.


Reply:--
 
The problem with using a relay for solar charge control is the current  
needed to activate the coil of the relay. This could be as high as 100mA and  
with 
a charge budget available of only 250mA you would have to select the relay  
used with care. If a solar charge controller was seen to be necessary I would  
have thought a solid state version similar to the type Don Brown is making the  
kit for would have been a safer bet for minimising power losses in the 
control  mechanism (pity these are only available in the USA as I could have  
used 
one).
 
The usable solar power available for solar panels is usually calculated at  
8hrs per day, though does depend on the seasons further away from the equator.  
With 8hrs @ 250mA that would equate to 2000mA per day which is the total  
rating of the NiMH cells being used. The charge needed would depend on the  
initial state of the batteries and what the consumption of the radio was to  
offset 
the available charge. Some device to monitor the battery voltage and an  
on/off switch would also work as a charge controller in this case at probably  
even less cost.
 
With regard to the point when full charge is reached with NiMH  cells, I was 
checking out a motorcycle racing ignition pack last week and using  a 
commercial charger built for the purpose, the end voltage for a 6 NiMH pack  
was 
8.40V, which equates to 1.40V per cell. These guys can get exceedingly upset  
if 
they are leading a race and the batteries die, so had to ensure that all was  
OK. The point with this type of cell and many others including gel cells is 
that 
 the initial voltage at the end of charge is higher than the nominal  voltage 
of individual cells, though the voltage soon droops with use to the  nominal 
voltage of approx 1.20 to 1.25V per cell. This carries on pretty  well 
constant until the battery is almost empty then there is a rapid fall  as the 
battery 
dies. Under these circumstances using NiMH cells it would be  better to 
maintain the charge to prevent the voltage falling as was recommended.  
Understand 
with the earlier NiCADS it was better to take them as far as possible  before 
recharging otherwise cell capacity could reduce.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Ser 4993 - First Problem

2005-06-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/06/05 03:24:07 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

  Applied power for the first time:
 heard the relays engage
  backlight came on
 Display is  blank, nothing whatsoever in the display
 turned rig off and back on, no relays this time, but  still
nothing in the display



Reply:--
 
Tim,
The item you should check is that you have soldered pin 1 on the K2 Front  
Panel LCD driver U1.
 
I did miss this when I built my K2 as did a number of others. Not sure why  
this happens. Pin 1 of all IC on the PCBs are different being a circular  
copper track, though that is no answer why it is missed in  the soldering.
 
The pin 1 on front panel U1 can be inspected with the board removed.  However 
due to the front panel switches and the LCD display positioned above it  is 
rather difficult to get a soldering iron in to solder the pad.
 
Some builders have removed the LCD to access the pad. As I had concerns in  
damaging the LCD in the removal, ended up cutting a tiny V out of the  
plastic corner on the lower edge of the IC socket, just enough to get a  very 
small 
soldering iron bit to the pad there and solder the pin. The  IC socket plastic 
removal is not seen as it is hidden when  assembled.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] KNB@ non-operation

2005-06-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/06/05 13:35:58 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I also  see that Q5, the transistor that shorts out the output filter tank, 
has no  bias at all. There is no DC return for the base to ground.  Is this  
correct? Maybe  the base should not be floated?  Maybe Q5 is  open? 


Reply:---
 
Rich,
 
Q5 on the KNB2 is either on or off, there is no in-between state so no bias  
is applied to the transistor apart from when it is switched on by the one shot 
 Q3/4. Possibly looking at the base and collector of Q5 with a scope would 
help  to see the spikes of enabling voltage and suppression of the segment of 
signal  during a short duration noise burst. The circuit details with the 
schematic on  the last page of the KNB2 manual should give an insight into the 
method of  operation.
 
The problem with checking most noise blanker is generating the necessary  
test conditions to see if the operation is correct. Most radio equipment  
manufacturers are rather vague in this respect and I have yet to find a piece 
of  
test equipment that will provide interference pulses on demand. Possibly an  
automobile spark plug driven by an ignition coil and contact breaker pulse  
source 
may be the answer. Have tried using electric drills and other brush  motors 
for generating noise pulses with only limited success. Otherwise it is  
sometimes a case of awaiting a RF noisy auto to go past as the KNB2 only  
functions 
on short duration spikes of noise.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168 with KNB2
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Re: [Elecraft] whips

2005-06-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 29/06/05 23:50:28 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Check  the base impedance at hf.  Some antennas have a vhf matching  circuit
in the base
that will look like nearly a short at hf.  If  it doesn't show an open
circuit at hf,



Reply:-
 
What Bob, N6WG mentions are the VHF antennas that are 1/2 wavelength  or 
multiples of this and where the antenna feed end is at a high impedance. To  
match 
this a coil is inserted into the antenna base with the incoming 50 ohm  
feeder tapped in at an early point on the coil. Normally this type can  be 
located 
even with a sealed marine type antenna by checking the  resistance across the 
unplugged antenna lead should read S/C looking  towards the antenna. This type 
of VHF antenna should not be capable if  working on HF. However if there is 
no measurable S/C there is a good chance the  antenna is one that is a multiple 
of a 1/4 wavelength and as such could be used  as a short whip antenna for 
HF, though with rather limited efficiency.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Datong FL3.

2005-06-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 29/06/05 21:50:12 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Actually, Mike, I think I've seen mention of Datong in
recent  years.  Not totally dead yet.
Dr. D. A. Tong was a very clever  designer, but he kept
his designs very close to his chest.  To the  best of
my knowledge, the schematics for the FL3 or others
were never  published.  I too have an FL3 and would
like to see the schematic, but  no joy so far.
73, Bob N6WG



Reply:---
 
As Nigel mentions in an earlier posting, Datong Ltd are still very much in  
business in more upmarket RF tracking equipment sold to government  agencies.
 
I did contact the company recently trying to obtain a schematic for their  
earlier Datong DF1 FM direction finding unit that was marketed in the mid  
1980's. I have obtained one of these items to help in  the tracking an 
interfering 
signal (moron) on the input to our  local 2m repeater. Unfortunately the 
antenna combiner part of the DF1 had got  lost over the years, so the only 
option 
was to build another to get the DF1  working. Contacted Datong via their 
website listed address and though they were  initially willing to help, became 
unable to do so when a schematic was  requested. Only suggestion they made was 
to 
post a request for help in Radcom or  similar.
 
Never have seen any of their schematics available so possibly none were  ever 
given out. I traced out a schematic for their AD170/AD270  active RX antenna 
from the PCB as a necessity to repair the unit after it  got zapped by static 
electric during my years in the Middle  East.
 
Other than having a go yourself to trace out the schematic from the FL3  PCB, 
it may be worth contacting Datong via their website address to see if  they 
will help with the FL3 schematic.
 
As a footnote did finally find a project unit that was very similar  and 
compatible to the Datong DF1 that had the schematics available plus the  
necessary 
blank PCBs. In process of constructing this unit at present.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 1E field day

2005-06-27 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 27/06/05 16:37:10 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

The only  glitch I'm having right now is that I'm getting reports of 
FM/Chirp, and I  can hear this when I transmit into a dummy load, 
listening on a  TS-940.  I thought it might be voltage drop under load, 
but reducing  power doesn't change it.  I haven't gone through the TX 
alignment so  maybe this is an alignment thing(?). 



Reply:-
 
Hi Paul,
 
Check that RFC15 the 100uH choke that feeds the 5V supply to the PLL  chip U4 
pin 16 on the RF board is not O/C. Apparently a common cause of  this problem 
as it is very easily damaged during installation. Need to check it  with a 
DVM for a low through resistance as voltage tests can be  misleading.
 
Can be temporarily replaced with a wire link until a new choke is obtained  
if it is faulty. When installing a new choke carefully hold the wires next to  
the body of the choke with a small pair of needle nose pliers and bend the 
free  end of the wire with your fingers only. This helps to keep mechanical 
stress off  the choke body.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2, Noise Gen and Spectrogram

2005-06-27 Thread G3VVT
James,
 
Sometimes in addition to a noise generator and a PC with a soundcard  running 
Spectrogram you may need to add a 600 ohm 1:1 isolation transformer  between 
the LS output of the K2 and the PC sound card input. Perhaps I was  
unfortunate in that both my PC and a separate laptop had spikes on the  display 
from 
harmonics of the AC power frequency. In the UK we use 50Hz AC power  so that 
was 
present as a very large spike followed by 150Hz and every 100Hz  after that 
through the audio spectrum. With your use of 60Hz AC power in the USA  would 
possibly expect that plus multiples through the audio test range if  afflicted.
 
The use of an audio isolation transformer killed these spikes stone  dead.
 
Don, W3FPR suggested the audio transformers from scrap PC modem cards as a  
possible source of suitable 600 ohm transformers.
 
The Spectrogram program turned out to have other uses for me beyond  checking 
K2s.
Having done a hurried rebuild on a 2m repeater for a semi local repeater  
group, when installed on site the through audio was poor and sounded  muffled. 
With the aid of a VHF noise generator plus my laptop running  Spectrogram was 
able to follow the audio through from the repeater RX audio  output, through 
the 
logic and right up to the TX modulator. Apart from the  normal RX de-emphasis 
and the blocking of the audio below 300Hz in the  logic to remove the 
incoming CTCSS, the audio was correct right the way through  the system.
 
The problem in the end turned out to be the TX modulation pre-emphasis was  
not functioning. No doubt there are many other uses for the Spectrogram 
program,  but on this occasion saved me a lot of time in fault finding on the  
repeater.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Using the KX1 on Solar Power

2005-06-22 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 22/06/05 15:26:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

You can  test the output current by connecting a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor 
across the  panel and measuring the output voltage


Reply: .
 
In practice you do not even need to do that.
 
During some commissioning of a large solar powered microwave system I was  
involved with about 5 years back that used up to 15kW of solar power  at each 
site (200 x 75W 12V solar panels), the contractors who installed the  system 
tested the output by connecting an ammeter effectively directly across  the 
solar 
panel output terminals. When I raised the question would this not  cause 
damage? They came back quite rightly, no, the current will limit at what  the 
solar panels are capable of providing. In these installations  the total array 
was 
divided into 12 banks of 48V sections with panels in series  and parallel to 
make up the arrangement. As the current involved was  considerable the method 
involved was to place a heavy gauge piece of wire after  the solar panel 
breaker and when the bank was activated measure the  resulting current through 
the 
piece of wire with a calibrated AC/DC clamp type  current sensor and a DVM.
 
With the type of solar panels normally used by hams, probably a  DVM on a 
suitable current range direct across the solar panel terminals would do  the 
job. 
You have to take care that the panel being tested is isolated from all  other 
power sources such as batteries, but at the end of the day the panel will  
not supply any more than what it is rated to give.
 
Don, KD5NDB was very correct on the need for a blocking diode to be  inserted 
in series with each solar panel when multiple panels are in use,  otherwise a 
panel in shade where the other(s) are in illumination, could  absorb the 
power being generated by back feeding into this panel.
 
Larger sized panels normally have the blocking diode included inside the  
panel assembly or terminal box. In addition they have  internally what I 
believe 
are called bypass diodes to prevent the  panel limiting the voltage within 
itself when part of the panel is in  shade where the rest is illuminated.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy Loads and SWR

2005-06-09 Thread G3VVT
I mistakenly gave the wrong christian name for G5RV in reply. Was pointed  
out correctly by Peter, G3PDL that it was Louis Varney. Reg Varney was a more  
infamous UK TV personality of the past.
 
Senility creeps up on you and you don't know it is happening until too  late!
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 Power Requirements

2005-06-03 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 03/06/05 04:10:11 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Given  the size and weight of batteries, I had hoped to use a 36 Ah battery,
and  then recharge it with solar power.  But it seems that these  batteries
charge rather slowly, and that might not be possible.  For  example, I think
it is powerportstore.com that has a 1.2 amp flexible solar  panel recharger
that puts out approximately 5.6 - 7 Ah per day.  The  solar panel is about $
500.00.The general size/weight and  price is ok, but it doesn't appear
that such output would be sufficient to  fully recharge a big battery. 



Reply: --
 
The problem of recharging the battery from the 1.2A solar panel (about 16  
-18W capacity) is related to the solar panel being rather lacking in capacity  
and would not do much more than delay the battery being run  down considering 
the drain of a K2/100 on TX. It all depends on the TX to  RX ratio used with 
the K2/100 and the mode of usage to how long the battery  will last. RX is no 
problem with the K2 as that is in the 0.25A range, but the  100W on TX can draw 
something in the region of 20A at full output.
 
However a 1.2A solar panel would be very usable with a basic K2 which has  
much lower TX current requirements of usually 2.0 to 2.5A at 13.8V. Even with  
this a charging controller would probably not be needed as the battery would  
provide much of the needed voltage regulation. A diode would be needed in  
series with the solar panel to prevent the battery discharging back into the  
panel when the solar insolation is insufficient to provide any charge.  This 
diode 
is provided internally with most of the larger solar  panels.
 
For use with a K2/100 a much larger solar charging capacity would be  better, 
probably in the 55W range (4A at 13.8V) or higher together with a  suitable 
charge controller to prevent any possible over charging of the battery  and 
consequent over voltage being applied to the K2/100.
 
With the solar powered communications systems I was involved with from 1981  
to 2002, these initially used multiple 55W panels (approx 3ft x 1ft) with  
individual controllers on each to provide the charging for the battery plant.  
Later 15kW systems used 200 x 75w panels (approx 4ft x 1.5ft each  panel) and 
switched the solar panels in banks controlled by an intelligent  charger 
system. 
A matter of balancing the required charging voltage  with the amount of 
panels on line. This was needed to provide for the current  drain of the comms 
systems and allow for days when the sun did not appear,  where the available 
charging current would be insufficient to balance the  24 hr drain. With the 
latter 
systems running a microwave site it was normal to  see 120A or greater charge 
current at 54 to 58V when the battery  plant was in the morning full charge 
cycle.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

2005-05-31 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 31/05/05 08:37:43 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

To  all. I ordered 8 rechargable batteries from ZBattery at a good price. 
 
I have stayed away from rechargable batteries because of the 1.2 volts per  
AA battery. However these are the high capacity batteries 2450 amp  hr. 
What do you think for my K1? At 9.6 volts I am not sure what  power output I 
will have... If it doesn't work out for the K1 I can always  use them in my 
dig. camera!



Hi Paul,
 
Presume you meant 2450mAhr AA size.
 
2450Ahr is something quite huge that unless the very latest high capacity  
(and expensive) block NiMh cells are used, would entail you using a  trailer to 
haul them about. We had 3750Ahr 2V lead acid batteries cells in  the workplace 
com site's solar powered battery plant and they were big!
 
The 2450mAhr AA version is as you say very usable in digital cameras, but  
you do need to keep them charged up as they seem to gradually go flat if left 
in 
 the camera for a long period of time. Another downside is the increase in  
capacity had brought on a very definitely noticeable rise in weight.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon

2005-05-16 Thread G3VVT
The answer to the problem is an old one in that it is difficult to get an  HF 
antenna to work with a mag mount due to the low capacitance between the  
magnetic base and the vehicle body.
 
VHF/UHF antenna mounted on a mag mount is OK as the effective low  
capacitance does not present a problem. I even tried a 3 magnet type of mount 
on  HF 
with the same dismal results. Am told that if you can install a very  short 
wide 
grounding strap from the mag mount to the vehicle body this can be  the answer 
to the problem, but admit that I was never entirely successful with  this 
either.
 
There seems nothing better than getting a good metallic contact with  the 
vehicle body to get an HF mobile whip to tune and correctly which is what I  
had 
to do in the end with a bolted on mount.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 16/05/05 23:08:10 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

First,  for the ac cord, use a large enough toroid so that you can get  a
number
of turns through it.  Try to get them to lay smoothly next  to each other,
rather than bunching and crossing over each other.  You  can remove the ac
plug for the winding, then install a new one when the  windings are done.



Reply: ---
 
Like Bob, N6WG I used a large ferrite ring that was sold at a hamfest for  
use to construct a filter for hi-fi interference and TVI  suppression at HF at 
about US$1.00 each. Through this wound as many turns of 3  conductor AC power 
cord that would fit laid flat with it's outer sheath removed.  Ended up with 
about 12 turns secured with plastic cable ties. In my case was  using this to 
suppress a noisy PC switched mode supply at HF so added an  IEC free socket on 
the end of the short cable tail. The  incoming power was taken through one of 
the shielded IEC chassis  mounting filter with male connector that are 
available in the market.  Mounted the whole lot in a plastic box with an added 
MOV 
suppresser to remove  spikes mounted at the terminals of the IEC filter. This 
is 
only added for the  benefit of the PC to prevent spikes causing system 
crashes. Mounted the box  next to the power socket on the PC switch mode PSU to 
keep 
any leads  short.
 
Works well allowing me to have the PC running at the same time as working  HF 
which was just about impossible before. Purposely suppressed all three  
conductors including ground which decoupled the PSU case and by default the PC  
to 
contain the interference sources. Noted that a commercial power  filter for 
telephone switch use was found to be similar, with all three  conductors 
including the ground lead decoupled with an inductors.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise blanker [was: K2 battleplan?]

2005-04-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/04/05 16:12:07 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I've  noticed the majority of K2s seem to be built with the NB.  I  don't
have it, and since I don't seem to be having any man-made noise  problems
I've been wondering when  where the NB is useful.  Is it  mainly for
presumably noisier urban and suburban areas?  Without it  would something
like Spectrogram show continual spikes at certain  frequencies?  And
finally, would the DSP board have any substantial  effect on the sort of
man-made noise the NB  addresses?


Reply: --
 
At first I thought the KNB2 noise blanker in my K2 was not working as it  had 
no effect on the normal type of noise received at my QTH. Then  after quite a 
few months found that the NB did indeed work and very well, but  only on 
impulsive noise with sharp rise times like automobile ignition  interference. 
Seems that the KNB2 is a lot more selective in what it will  suppress. My old 
faithful Yaesu FT-480R 2m multimode on the other hand is not as  choosy and 
will 
work over a wider range of noise types. The FT-480R if anything  is rather 
simpler in the NB circuit design than the KNB2. The FT-480R picks up  the RX 
wide 
band input half way through the two roofing filters that provide  initial 
bandwidth control after the first mixer. It uses a relatively high  gain IF 
section controlled with AGC to feed a detector circuit that gates G2 in  the 
2nd 
mixer MOSFET. It does work exceptionally well though, removing a variety  of 
noise types. If the KNB2 worked to the same degree I would be very  happy.
 
The incidence of the type of interference that the KNB2 will gate out  is 
seldom experienced at my QTH, so it gets very little use. In  retrospect could 
have saved a some money by leaving the KNB2 out in my  K2, though as has been 
pointed out in other postings there are some QTH  where this noise blanker is 
really useful.
 
Only hope that eventually some future mod or redesign of this module  may be 
of benefit with the type of noise I suffer from.
 
As regards use of the DSP2, I do not have one in my K2, but do have an  
external Timewave DSP-9+ available. The DSP-9 works I would guess in a  similar 
way 
to the DSP2 in that it is in the audio chain. Impulsive noise is not  removed 
by this device in noise reduction mode (NRr), though longer term noise  that 
the normal noise blanker will not touch is suppressed in amplitude during  
it's duration. I would guess the audible effect is in a way similar to what 
used  
to happen with ANL circuits in the AM days. The DSP-9 and would presume other 
 audio DSP devices have a longer delay in response time and so prevent  any 
chance of removing sharp rise time noise.
 
Though it may be looked on as heresy by the K2 CW fraternity, in the  
Timewave DSP-9+ SSB mode, morse can be almost completely eradicated by the  
action of 
noise reduction on tone (NRt). When going over to CW with an external  DSP 
device, the user has to be careful that this NRt facility is switched off,  
otherwise little morse is heard.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KPA100 question

2005-04-23 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 23/04/05 11:55:05 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

It's  
always a good idea to leave a LITTLE air under power resistors, to help  
them dissipate some heat. Mine stood off the board about  1/8


Reply: ---
 
Can concur with that idea.
 
When I worked in TV repairs in the 1960s and PCBs first came into use,  we 
used to slip a small ceramic bead over the lead to give a  small stand off to 
prevent charring of the early laminated paper PCBs.  Failing this a small full 
loop in the lead was made around a jewellers  screwdriver to raise the heat 
generating component above the PCB, and also  provide mechanical support to the 
soldered joint. Anybody who worked on these  early PCB will be well aware of 
the effects that could occur. The  other problem apart from charring being when 
carbonised tracking between  the layers caused an internal break down between 
adjacent component leads due to  the higher tube voltages employed.
 
Latterly the method seems to be to joggle (kink) the component  lead to 
provide a mechanical stop against the PCB and assist in component  cooling 
where 
needed. The use of fiber glass PCB made the effect of heat  generation in the 
PCB less of a problem, though should still be avoided.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery

2005-04-23 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 22/04/05 19:50:27 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I had a  33 Ohm resistor of 5W in stock which was only 0,3 inch, so it fits
very  nicely. I have mounted it on the component side of the pcb, otherwise
it  gets in the way of the battery!

The result is very positive, it charges  nicely. I have mounted a timer in
line with the charging supply, an old  Nokia 12V GSM supply, to avoid
overcharging as I read that NiMh cells dont  like that.



Reply: ---
 
Hi Dick,
 
Yes, that method will work and is used in most simple hand held radio  
battery chargers to limit the charge current.
 
However to get the best life out of NiCad and NiMh cells/batteries I have  
always understood that they should be charged under constant current conditions 
 
at the recommended rate given with the cells or battery. The series resistor  
method does limit the maximum current though may partially fall down on not  
providing a constant current. There are several methods of providing a 
constant  current, the most common being to use a voltage regulator with a 
series 
resistor  providing feedback. I use an earlier method with two transistors and 
two  resistors that is easily adapted to any required constant current and will 
cope  with a wide range of input voltages.
 
Not sure how the charging of the KX1 is configured so your options may be  
limited. Contact me off the list if you need the two transistor schematic.
 
Gross Overcharging of *any* rechargeable cell/battery is always a problem  
resulting in heat generation and eventual destruction of the cells unless this  
is limited to a charge rate of 2.5% or less of battery capacity. I  had 
something like 400 UHF HH to maintain at an oil terminal/gas plant  and apart 
from 
the operators using the radios instead of a hammer, the main  problem was gross 
overcharging which could lead to failure of the battery  in as little time as 
a year. Some automatic chargers received more recently were  the answer to 
this problem, though these are even today far from being  widely available. 
Time 
limiting the charge will work as long as the battery is  fully discharged to 
start with. A partly discharged battery subjected to a full  charge cycle will 
only dissipate the resultant continuation of charge after full  charge is 
reached as heat. Note that all modern cellular mobile telephones are  fitted 
with 
an automatic charger to get maximum recharging life from the  battery.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: SMD-based kits and retirement [not!]

2005-04-20 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 20/04/05 06:06:43 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Don't  worry -- leaded parts aren't going away anytime soon. We still 
have access  to every part we designed into the K2 over five years ago. 


Reply: -
 
Leaded parts may not go away, but may be increasingly difficult to obtain.  
Some types of IC are a case in point where the DIL type are getting very  
difficult to source and new types of devices are only available as SMD. There 
is  a 
way around this in adapting a similar SMD IC with a DIL header  adaptor, but 
this would become impractical if the number involved get too great.  All 
volume manufacturers of equipment seem to be changed over to using SMD  which 
can 
only hasten the decline. Have been involved recently with sourcing  some CTCSS 
decoders for home constructed repeater logic systems. Very little is  now 
available in DIL format as the radio manufacturers have only only used SMD  for 
quite a long period. What is little still available in DIL commands quite a  
hefty price premium compared to the SMD type.
 
More worrying if the information turns out to be correct is that Toko are  
reported in the UK PW radio magazine for May 2005 to be ceasing manufacture  of 
through hole PCB type transformers and concentrating on surface  mounted 
types. Unless another source is found of these components,  this could make 
home 
construction though not impossible, a great  deal more difficult.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware

2005-04-17 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 17/04/05 16:25:51 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

Well, I  had never read this procedure before, so I gave it a try.  SSBA 
entry  to BAL, then held VOX and got  . . .  nothing.




Reply: --
 
Try activating BAL mode, go back to frequency display and then press VOX.  
Mine gives a display of 1.08 for a second or so then before reverting to  
frequency.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] To drill or not to drill, that is the question

2005-04-16 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 16/04/05 11:11:43 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What I  use is a wooden cocktail stick ( bought in lots of 1000 for a 
quid from  your local Pound Shop ) or a wooden toothpick that I have 
previously  preformed by gently pushing it through an empty THP hole 
of the correct  size.
I then heat the hole to be cleared until the solder melts and then  
push the stick through the molten solder. Its easy, non destructive  
and very quick to do.

I also use this wooden tool to prevent  ingress of solder to ajacent 
holes when soldering a component located  close to other THP holes.


Reply
 
What a good idea Mike.
 
I had the misfortune to solder joints that should have been done later  
particularly on the K2 RF board. This idea would have saved me the grief of  
removing the solder in a THP hole that was required later without affecting  
other 
joints in the area.
 
The builder who ended up having to buy a new board about a year back after  
clearing the THP holes with a Dremmel tool is a good testimony for not  using a 
drill bit to clear solder.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers

2005-04-15 Thread G3VVT
I had the analog MFJ-209 for a number of years without any problems and  
bought the later MFJ-259B with digital readout two years back. Also have the 
AEA  
SWR-121VU for VHF/UHF antenna tests. No complaints with any of these analyzers 
 as they have worked faultlessly since purchase. The surplus MFJ-209 was  
sold the same evening it was advertised at the local radio club.
 
 
A point to remember with antenna analyzers built for the ham market, is  
mostly that they will not work in areas of high RF field strength such as at  
communications sites. Have to resort to the old faithful Bird Thruline or other 
 
professional test equipment to get anywhere in these cases. Can also occur at  
contest sites where multiple stations are in use.

 
Like a lot of ham gear these antenna analyzers are built to a  price 
otherwise they would not sell. I doubt very much if more than a few  affluent 
hams 
would be willing to pay the price demanded for new professional  test 
equipment. 
Prices in the USA for ready built ham gear are low in any case  compared what 
we have to pay in the UK. The Robber Barrons here have an  exclusive grip on 
our market which appears to be in some cases supported by  the manufacturers. 
The normal ploy seems to be to rub out the $ sign and replace  it with the £ 
sign, a 155% mark up at present exchange rates when local taxes  are removed. 
Have even seen some cheaper items of MFJ that cost more  numerically in £ than 
in US$ on the market here. Importing the items from  the USA seems to be 
hindered by inflated shipping charges. Thankfully,  Elecraft at least leave it 
open 
to the buyer which shipping method is used, so  allowing costs to be minimised.
 
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Calibration Interval

2005-04-14 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 14/04/05 05:36:04 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Jonesy,K9NX wrote:

My K2 #4198 is running just fine and I am  wondering how often to check the
Calibration of my K2 to help make sure it  is running at peak performance 
Say every 6 months or  yearly?

---

Just a guess, but I'd say you can ignore  it for a couple of years at least.
Even then, 'recalibration' will catch  any tuned circuits drifting, but isn't
really a test to see if there's  performance degradation from other reasons.


I have a habit of  recalibrating or doing other repairs only when I see
something wrong. I see  something wrong when some critical values change. 

I log the key data  about a new rig so I can look back from time to time if
I'm suspicious that  something's amiss or if I'm simply bored and want to
tinker 


--
 
What Ron says sums up the situation very well, why would you want to  
recalibrate the radio unless the performance is falling off. To quote the often 
 used 
phrase if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Not many hams would do this  to the 
latest Japanese/USA black box, so why do this to a K2? The radio is  tested 
to a degree every time it is switched on and used on the bands.  A fall off in 
TX power output or RX sensitivity soon becomes apparent.
 
Is important however, to record *all* the tests you make on original  
commissioning, calibration and after any mods that may be done for future  
troubleshooting if required. By and large unlike earlier tube equipment, solid  
state 
equipment performance does not change all that much unless a fault  develops 
and 
one is usually made aware of this pretty quickly by other hams if  not 
apparent to yourself. Apart from odd quirks that can occur with some radios,  I 
would be rather more worried if the performance does drift as that would not  
say 
much about the quality of the original design or the components used.
 
With commercial communication systems these are tested with specific  routine 
maintenance programs on a regular basis to ensure that any defect is  picked 
up before it becomes a problem. The reasoning behind this is to prevent  
unforeseen outages as these can mean lost revenue for the company or a possible 
 
threat to safety. Ham radio does not normally fall into this category, so 
unless 
 tinkering with the K2 calibration really turns you on, it is far better to  
use the radio for the purpose it was designed for in the first  place, 
communicating with other hams.
 
Bob, G3VVT
(retired comms maint tech)
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Re: [Elecraft] Quoted text

2005-04-14 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 14/04/05 13:26:26 GMT Daylight Time,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

Is there  a specific reason why some of you folks don't have your email 
software  adding the quote characters   to the quoted material from 
the  messages to which you are replying, or is it just an accident? It 
makes it  very hard to see what the reply is and who has replied (see 
below for an  example). I've never seen this behavior before I joined 
this mailing  list.

Thanks,

Paul



--
--
Paul,
 
My particular e-mail software just does not appear to do what you ask,  only 
quotes any parts I happen to highlight on the original document.  This shown 
at least to me as indented text as is your original message  quoted at the head 
of this reply, but which unfortunately gets lost through  the system. Also, 
which I think is even more important, try to keep the parts of  the original 
included brief, only use the parts that have relevance to my  reply.
 
One day may find the method of doing what you ask to include the   
characters and let you go away rejoicing.
 
Conversely I find the use of continual  characters cloud the whole  
message with semi useless information that is even more frustrating when  
posters 
persist in adding the whole message when it is not really needed,  plus *all* 
of 
any previous multiple replies with double and triple   characters. Must 
really use up Eric's storage space for the  Reflector.
 
It sometimes gets bewildering to search though such messages to find what  
the poster's reply actually is!
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit

2005-04-13 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 13/04/05 01:44:15 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

One of  the insturments I always wanted for home use was a spectrum analyzer. 
  Nice to have sound card analyzers with software and all, but a real rf  
analyzer in a small, functional package would be so great.  With some  
careful trade off decisions it might even be affordable!  The display is  a big 
headache if you don't have a good Oscope handy but a creative designer  [or 
two] 
might be able to do the job.  I suppose it would not have the  broad appeal of 
a K1, 2 or even a very compact antenna tuner, but it might  appeal to a few 
hundred hams and others who do bench  work.
Wayne
K9NE
Yes, I know about the projects already on the web,  but how many of you have 
actually rounded up all the stuff to build that  one?



--
 
Al Helfrick, K2BLA did a series of articles in the 1980's on just such an  
idea. The one published in RF Design, January 1988 had a 3 chip  design for 
use with a cheap general purpose oscilloscope and was based on  the MC3356 chip 
as the heart of the project.
 
In November 1989, Radcom published an article by Roger, G4PMK that  
expanded on Al's ideas with a practical version that would cover 1 - 90MHz with 
 a 
logarithmic display, 50dB dynamic range and a built in marker generator. The  
MC3356 converts the incoming 1 - 90MHz up to 145Mz where a Toko helical filter  
provides some selectivity. Is then down converted to 10.7 IF with an NE602, at 
 which point the main selectivity is achieved with filters. The  clever bit 
after this is the use of the second section of  the MC3356 chip to provide a 
logarithmic IF and detector. A kits of parts  and a PCBs were offered at the 
time so one was  built. My basic analyser covers up to 97 MHz and have extended 
the  range with external converters up to the 70cm UHF band. Believe the MC3356 
 chip is now obsolete so could be difficult to replicate.
 
A handy tool for tracking down RF spurii and interference problems within  
it's capability. Commercial small spectrum analysers tend still to command a  
premium price on the surplus market and the main that are available  tend to be 
large and heavy. I have such a one, the HP 141T/8554B combination.  Can make 
your eyes bulge carrying the instrument, but still has a good  performance 
considering it's age. This was our instrument of choice up to  recent years 
with 
the HP 8555A plug in for maintaining analog microwave  systems. For my own 
personal use at home tend to use the homebuilt device  first and only pull out 
the 
HP 141T when circumstances force me to.
 
Noticed a more recent design offered at a hamfest last year that  covered up 
to 500MHz or more with what appeared to be a cable TV tuner at  the front end. 
There are probably other built and kit versions of these  spectrum analyser 
adapters available in the market.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Spam bounce?

2005-04-09 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 09/04/05 09:10:45 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

But this  morning turning it
 on, I just got a vigorous howl ( very low freq nois  !). I turn it off, and
 on after a few second. The Rx start normaly and  the noise start again after
 a few second. Re-turn off and tunr on and  no howl and Rx is working
 correctly!


-
 
With the RX problem a good point to start with would be to check the PSU as  
the symptoms can sometimes be caused by a very low supply voltage. A common  
problem with battery powered equipment is to have LF instability when the  
batteries were dying. The same can apply with a defective PSU.
 
To Martin, OK1RR, I can assure you that AOL are not a freemail  provider, far 
from it as they charge more than many others for the  service.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] RF Noise canceller ?

2005-04-03 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 03/04/05 12:11:33 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

There  have been several schematics using such technics over the last 20
years.  Most of them use a seperate short antenna, feeding the signal pase
shifted  into  a combiner which combines the main Antenna Signal with  the
phases shifted extra antenna signal. This construction can reduce a lot  of
man made noise. 
I remember there was a commercial available stand  alone unit sold by a small
english company.



---
 
The Antenna interference cancelling unit in the UK was from SEM a company  in 
the Isle of Man (GD). No longer seem to be in business. There is one from MFJ 
 still on the market and believe a model may have come from a company called  
NIR (now part of Timewave? cannot find any info on the Timewave web site)  
though could be wrong on this latter unit.
 
I built my own from a design from G4WMX for a Null Steerer that was  
circulating in the UK in 1989. I can remember my late father in law  Ted, G3UUA 
building one at the time and was impressed with how well it  worked, taking his 
S9 
level of interference out totally. About two years back  when suffering from 
local electrical interference I had a go at building the  same unit. There is 
a PCB produced by Geoff Steedman, M0BGS available now as  well as a kit of 
parts to populate the bare PCB. For the kit of parts with PCB,  I paid £25 
(US$47 
approx). Built it up into a diecast box and have it  permanently in the RX 
antenna feed. Easy for me as I have a separate TX/RX on  the QRO rig. 
Alternately has PTT switch feed to enable it to be used in the  antenna feed of 
a 100W 
HF transceiver. With a suitable auxiliary antenna it can  null out quite high 
levels of local interference, the limiting factor being  the amount of wanted 
signal also picked up by the auxiliary antenna. With the  power off the unit is 
totally bypassed.
 
The downside with mine is that with the unit active, the wanted  signal is 
attenuated somewhat and even more when nulling out interference. The  upside is 
that it can still make a vital difference in hearing signals  buried under 
local interference. I believe Geoff, M0BGS has modified more recent  PCB to add 
an emitter follower to the outgoing main antenna feed to offset  through 
losses. Will have to try to modify my PCB to add this.
 
I have the scanned circuit and notes somewhere in my PC for the original  
unit before the emitter follower was added. If anybody wants to have a go  at 
constructing this device and needs the info, contact me direct.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] XV-50 LNA problems

2005-03-31 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 31/03/05 19:42:07 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Not  inexpensive, but works  well:

http://www.dci.ca/

Specifically:

http://www.dci.ca/?Section=Amateur

We  installed one of the 2M units on our repeater to eliminate bandpass and 
to  give a DC ground to our preamp on our repeater system.  It was  
intolerant of the energy from Lightning.  One of these solved all our  
problems.  Looks like the specs say  -72dBm @ 135Mhz on the 2Mhz  wide 
unit.  The 4Mhz wide unit is better documented, and shows   -89dBm @ 126 
Mhz. That should knock down any nastys that will get your 6m  XV-50.



Have been using the DCI-145-2H, 4 section helical filter since 1999 on the  
local 2m repeater GB3LD which I hold the license. Without this we would be  
swamped by pagers in particular located on ours and adjacent masts. The normal  
bandpass and notches found in the repeater duplexer whilst they are efficient 
in  preventing energy from it's own TX entering the RX, work relatively poorly  
in keeping out energy from external sources. Notch filters are only really  
successful when a single fixed frequency is involved. 
 
The bandpass filter on the repeater worked so well that I ended up  buying 
one for my shack when 153 MHz pagers were installed close to the home  location.
 
For these devices to work you need to have a bandpass filter of this type  on 
the receiver that is being affected and not the TX that is causing the  
interference, unless the TX output purity is sufficiently poor to warrant  
this. In 
other words if the 6m receiver is being affected, a 6m bandpass filter  is 
needed and not really much use in installing one on the 2m TX. Bandpass  
filters 
incur a penalty in that they are lossy and usually mean a  loss of about 1dB 
in the case of the 2m unit and greater at UHF. If it is  installed in the 
common antenna feed of the TX/RX mean the same loss on TX  power.
 
All too often the designers of normal every day amateur receivers for  
VHF/UHF skimp on the selectivity of the front end to achieve a better  
sensitivity 
and the price is blocking or even damage if the local field  strengths from 
other sources are too high. By comparison commercial 2 way radios  by virtue of 
performance regulations are far superior in the selectivity stakes,  quite 
often using miniature helical filters at the front end to achieve the  
performance.
 
Good bandpass filters are expensive, but if transmitters on other  
frequencies are causing a problems, are a necessary evil.
 
Bob G3VVT
Keeper GB3LD/GB3LF
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Re: [Elecraft] XV-50 LNA problems

2005-03-31 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 31/03/05 23:06:29 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I'm thinking external T/R relay is the smart move. If the relay is  rigged
to rest in the transmit position, when the transverter is powered  off, the 
out
of band signal will land in the PA output, I suspect the  output of the PA
module is a big strong MOSFET or bipolar, that can take a  few volts on it's
drain (or collector) when it's biased off. When I add a  real amp, the plate
of an 8877 can take big voltage ;-)




--
 
External T/R relays to isolate the unused antenna feed and dump any  unwanted 
energy into a dummy load with some form of interlock to prevent  transmission 
until the feed is enabled would be the cheapest option by far to  resolve the 
problems with damage to the XV-50 RX front end.
 
The commercial systems I worked on had ferrite isolators in the TX antenna  
feed to stop exactly what you talked about, i.e. TX power from another TX 
coming  back down the feeder into the PA as this could generate unwanted RF  
products at the PA. The ferrite isolator works as a directional coupler,  
allowing 
TX power towards the antenna, but any energy coming back from the  antenna 
towards the PA from another source is dumped into a dummy load. Not  normally 
needed for ham equipment working in simplex, though essential with  systems on 
busy sites working in duplex such as repeaters. Used universally  with 
transmitter combiners into a single antenna.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for 40m RF amp design for my K2

2005-03-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/03/05 17:03:47 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I was  wondering of anyone has built the amp shown at the link below.  It had 
my  interest for a while until it's power requirements were pointed out to me 
as  being a drawback, price-wise.



---
 
Check Motorola designs AN762 and EB63 on the given website.
 
Both of these are designed to run from 12 to 14V DC at maybe something like  
22A, so cannot understand the power supply problem. There are suitable power  
supplies available relatively cheaply for this in abundance. Believe the 
classic  design AN762 which is the basis of the linear amplifier in most HF 
100W  
transmitters is featured in ARRL publications and is described in detail in the 
 RSGB Radio Communications handbook.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/03/05 17:45:28 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What do  I do with the leads of Z5?  Do I clip them, or leave them  alone?



-
 
The usual rule is if the component wire ends stick out chop 'em  off.
 
It can pay dividend in avoiding shorts sometimes and with Z5 there is  
nothing that would be adversely affected by doing this.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread G3VVT
After you have you have soldered Z5 into the correct place on the PCB trim  
the free wire ends as normal as with most other components.
 
Just to avoid any confusion!
 
Bob, G3VVT
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 switches - anyone else having problems?

2005-03-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/03/05 00:09:46 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

One  thing I have noticed on the KX1 is that the shaft encoder is a tad
flaky  ... sometimes I'll be tuning downward and the freq goes up one or
two  numbers in the least significant position.  It sort of depends on
how  you hold the knob.  A little pressure toward the top will increase
the  flakiness, toward the bottom will cure it.



-
 
I had an Alinco DX70 for repair recently where the sub dial gave a very  
similar result. On this the parts of the shaft encoder are held together  with 
two 
split tabs. Over time these had slackened off slightly and allowed  the 
encoder to flex slightly. Was able to reduce the effect by mechanical  
tightning of 
these tabs, but the only full cure was to replace the encoder with  a new 
one. Possibly the KX1 has similar problems.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF board - components on bottom?

2005-03-26 Thread G3VVT
 
 
In a message dated 26/03/05 15:27:54 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

After  several failures, and much thought and preparation with pre-bending 
and  
tinning of leads, I was finally able to get C91, C88, RFC15 soldered to  the 
correct points on the bottom of the board - with no shorts.   However, I now 
have no continuity through RFC 15.  I assume that  means I destroyed the 
choke 
during the mounting process, so I'm ordering a  replacement and will try 
again 
next week.



---
 
I found the easiest way to mount these was to get the component in  
approximately the correct position holding it with the end of a finger 
(asbestos  
tipped from many years of pulling hot tubes) and then quickly tack one end with 
 
solder to hold it. Then the component can be positioned correctly. First the  
opposite end is soldered and finally the end that was tacked soldered. RFC15 
has 
 to be handled with great care. I would recommend holding the RFC15 leads 
next to  it's body with fine needle nosed pliers and then bending the free end 
of 
 the lead to the required shape. That way strain is kept off the component. 
Some  disagree with this method, but it does work successfully for me at least.
 
There are other components in the K2 that benefit from such gentle  treatment.
 
Bob, G3VVT

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 mic hole plug specs?

2005-03-23 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 23/03/05 19:53:12 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I seek a  plug for the hole, not for
the jack...my intention is not to install the  jack in
the first place.



Try an auto accessory shop for blanking plugs/caps. They come in small  packs 
in the UK with assorted sizes, so probably just as readily  available in the 
USA. Come in handy for various construction projects.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Phase noise suggestions

2005-03-22 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 22/03/05 07:38:18 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Any  modulation of the K2 PLL will now appear as sidebands to the main  
signal.
They will be spaced at either 50Hz (Europe) or 60Hz. If the problem  is 
intense 
there may be harmonics.


-
 
Take care with this test as the PC itself also can produce these effect I  
presume due to the PC PSU.
 
I ended up having to put in a 600 ohm 1:1 transformer to remove the effect  
here with harmonics going well up towards the top end of SSB bandwidth at 100Hz 
 intervals from 150Hz after the initial 50Hz spike. Thought it was the 
inclusion  of an LF/RF filter system in the 230AC power input to the PC, but 
find I  
get exactly the same effect with a recently acquired laptop on it's own 
230VAC  SM PSU.
 
The bottom line is before condemning the K2 check that the effect does not  
occur on other radios first!
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB BOARD MODS

2005-03-22 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 22/03/05 03:04:24 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

There  was also a circuit in one of the worst radio's I have ever owned. The  
 
yeasu  Ft707 used
dual 8 pole filters in the 2nd IF. In between  the 2 filters was a   VCO. 
This 
gave an excellent IF
width  control. far superior to simple IF shift.




 
I had the Yaesu FT707 for a number of years and regretted parting with it  
for the later Yaesu FT757 (mkI). For SSB I found the FT707 RX very good and  
coped well with the hostile RF environment of 40m in Europe. In receiver  terms 
that band here sorts out the men from the boys in signal handling. The  FT707 
coped well with this, far better than any radio I had previously owned.  
There were warts with the radio in that the VFO initially drifted with  
temperature and had a pretty basic transmitter with limited power output on the 
 higher 
bands, but that continuously variable bandwidth system really worked  well. 
The variable bandwidth function on the FT757 was just a shadow  of the one on 
the FT707.
 
Far from being the worst radio I have owned.
 
Another point and I am not sure if others have experienced or agree with  
this, is that the FT757, TS440 and some other radios I have owned are fatiguing 
 
to listen to for long periods. Not sure what causes this effect, but some 
radios  are like this. The FT707 was good in being easy to listen to for 
extended  
periods as is the K2 and I find the various older JRC radios I have are  also 
superb.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with routers and K2?

2005-03-19 Thread G3VVT
It may also be a good idea to try the K2 on a dummy load to see if there is  
any effect then. The entry point of the interference needs to be tracked down  
somehow to enable a cure to be made.
 
Another problem that must be getting closer with ever wider bandwidths  being 
employed on broadband, we are getting closer to the point where normal  
broadband from the telcos is using part of the lower HF bands. I would guess  
when 
that happens there really will be trouble. I did have a chart that  laid out 
the frequency span of data systems that is somewhere in my effects  I shipped 
back to the UK. From memory 2Mb when used for low definition digital  video 
(VHS video compatible) occupies the frequencies up to about 1.1MHz and the  
34Mb 
needed for a compressed full definition video system goes up to about  12MHz. 
See there are 8Mb broadband systems on the loose now.
 
I wonder what frequency span they need?
 
Perhaps a list member with more knowledge on the subject could  comment.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 phase noise

2005-03-18 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 18/03/05 01:27:47 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I don't  expect the K2 to have lab grade 
performance, nor to outperform high price  rigs.  My sole reason for looking 
into this (believe me I've got  better things to do) is due to complaints 
about my signal on air.   These have been from respected and technically 
competent  amateurs.


--
 
From a later posting by S55M-Adi it may appear there is  some distortion 
reported from the K2's KSB2, SSB adapter under certain  circumstances. Rather 
than 
resorting to shotgun troubleshooting a rather more  thorough examination of 
the problem seems necessary.
 
Firstly the basic QRP CW K2 TX is reported to be clean. Is it?
 
Check that it is by removing all the additional boards from the K2, install  
the necessary straps/capacitors to return it to basic and test with a known 
good  spectrum analyser that has the resolution capability or other test 
equipment as  deemed appropriate. The spectrum analyser *must* be connected via 
suitable  external attenuators to protect it's input and prevent the generation 
of  
non existent spurii within the instrument due to overload. Many an unwitting  
technician has been led astray with this point and can also result in the  
spectrum analyser having to be returned for repair to a burnt  out front end 
and 
recalibration. An expensive process.
 
If the K2 passes this test, install the KSB2 and start again with the  
testing. Follow this through board by board until the culprit for  the 
perceived TX 
distortion is found. This would then be a good time to  contact Elecraft 
Support or post on the Elecraft reflector for assistance with  known specifics. 
Blanket criticism of the K2 is unlikely to succeed, only  generating hostility 
from the satisfied users. It may be something as simple in  some cases as wrong 
bias levels on the K2 PA transistors when that stage is used  as part of the 
system. The K2 will still work on CW with no bias at all, but  does sound 
extremely poor on SSB. This should show up in the testing and simple  DVM tests 
will pin down the cause if this is so. Any non linearity in  the TX signal path 
will degrade SSB where it has little if any effect  on CW.
 
Sensible testing with the knowledge of how to correctly use the test  
equipment should localise the problem. However having the best test equipment  
that 
money can buy still is no good if the person that is operating it does not  
know how to use it!
 
In my latter years at work was involved in commissioning/acceptance testing  
of new communication sites that contained SDH digital microwave, SDH fiber  
optics plus all the various power systems and other support needed to run  
these 
systems. Due to the complex nature of the testing, the design engineers  had 
thoughtfully documented precisely what test equipment should be used and all  
the settings for the various tests. Without this the job could have been 
rather  chaotic with the engineers and technicians from many nations involved 
in 
the  testing process.
 
In my original posting I used the term slagging. Fred, K6DGW pointed out  
to me quite rightly that the non UK members of the list may not  understand 
this UK slang term. The nearest translation for this would be  castigate.
 
Will follow the outcome of the reported problem with interest.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] Still blank display

2005-03-18 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 18/03/05 19:27:35 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I should  have added if it wasn't clear that you need to remove U1 before 
trying the  heated socket procedure.



---
Think I must have removed the chip before soldering the joint, but cannot  be 
sure a year later. Being on the bottom side of the board it is accessible in  
any case, though could be difficult to refit as the LCD display prevents  you 
supporting the board at the opposite side to apply pressure.
 
As you cannot get at U1 pin 1 on the top side of the board due to the LCD  
display, without removing this the method is to shave a V off the edge of the 
 
plastic corner of the socket at pin1 with an Exacto knife or similar to 
expose a  small area of the tinned print of the through hole in the PCB. Take 
off 
enough  to insert a very small pointed soldering iron on the socket side of the 
front  panel board and solder it quickly. Speed is the secret and small 
diameter  solder/soldering iron bit. I have both so no problem doing the work.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S/N 4787 First QSO

2005-03-16 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 16/03/05 22:48:02 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

The K2's  I've tested fall down on LO 
phase noise performance.  Also note that  the K2 measurements on the Sherwood 
web site state that the receiver  performance is limited by phase noise.  I 
agree the RX works very  well, but I've attracted comments on the air (when 
running QRO) re  transmitted phase noise.



 
I wonder if there is an obsession with numbers. To place the matter in  
perspective, the Sherwood Engineering web site does list the K2 which  is 
serial 
#3170 or about 2 years old? as being the 7th from the  top of all the ham radio 
receivers tested. The aspect of the  effects of phase noise being only one of 
many parameters that determine the  final result.
 
I would presume that to measure phase noise needs the resources of a well  
equipped professional lab. Whilst personally I am well equipped to carry out  
servicing of radios from HF through to UHF, cannot even really scratch the  
surface in terms of measuring phase noise. The professional communications  
systems servicing organisation I worked for despite being well equipped for  
testing 
from HF though to microwave in the field had little that could be used  
seriously for testing phase noise except for probably some rather expensive HP  
spectrum analysers that were issued only recently to maintain a new 8GHz 
digital  
microwave system.
 
Before slagging the K2 one should take more seriously what it represents in  
terms of outlay, costing only a fraction of cheapest HF transceivers available 
 on the market. Admittedly you have to build it yourself, but still the  
performance of the K2 as what it was primarily designed for, a QRP CW  
transceiver 
takes a heck of a lot of beating. There are shortcoming that occur  with the 
additional added components, though even these have been mitigated by  later 
modifications.
 
Do the persons reporting phase noise on K2 TX really know what they are  
talking about or just pushing out some mumbo jumbo that just happens to be the  
popular quotation of the day? To be frank most hams including myself  would 
probably not be be aware what phase noise is even if it jumped out and bit  
them.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4661 Takes It's First Breath!

2005-03-12 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 12/03/05 17:57:25 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I admit  that I was nervous at 
every test stage, but everything ultimately tested  out fine, and so far 
the rig is working great. It took 2 months, during  which I spent a 
total of 100 hours building (don't laugh; I may not be  fast, but at 
least I'm slow).



-
 
No need to worry how long it took to build your K2 Mike, the proof is that  
the K2 worked correctly at the end of the day. I haven't a clue how long my  K2 
took to construct about a year or so back, only that it worked  correctly at 
the end and still is. Made a few errors during the building, but  these were 
picked up and subsequently corrected by following the excellent step  by step 
test procedures in the K2 manual. More difficult problems were solved by  the 
assistance of Gary at Elecraft Support or help from the more knowledgeable  
Elecraft list members.
 
Am not aware or seen any evidence that Elecraft offer any prizes  for the 
fastest builder in any case!
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] Speech processing

2005-03-04 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 04/03/05 11:00:07 GMT Standard Time,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

I have  an old Comdel in-mic-line r-f clipper, which uses fewer than 100 
discrete  parts on a 4X6in board.



---
 
I have one of the Datong D75 RF speech processors since about 1980 (25  
years).
 
The leaflet that came with it shows it as being derived from earlier  
products, the RFC and the automatic model the ASP, though not sure when these  
were 
first on the market. By the time the D75 was introduced the circuitry had  been 
reduced to 7 IC and 2 transistors. Uses the phasing method to generate an  
SSB signal at 60kHz then clipped before demodulation back to audio. Draws 9mA  
from a small PP3/6F22 internal 9V battery or can be externally powered from  
the radio which is what I did with a Yaesu FT707 used at one time.
 
It worked well though the resultant audio quality was not for local usage  at 
higher levels of clipping!
 
What does what inside the box is a mystery as Datong are infamous for  not 
releasing schematics, a policy carried through to this day I found out when  
trying to obtain circuit information of their DF1 FM RF direction finding  
system. I have one with a missing head unit and need to get into operation for  
tracking local morons on the repeaters. A request to Datong who are now in the  
professional RF surveillance field after pulling out from the amateur market 
for 
 help and schematic information led to a polite, but firm refusal.
 
The main station HF transmitter in use at this end the JRC NSD-515 (1982  
vintage) uses RF clipping in the IF chain with 2 filters cascaded, one  either 
side of the TA7302 clipper IC at 8.7MHz. This works very well with  resultant 
audio quality good enough to leave it in circuit at all times for SSB  and just 
varying the amount of clipping to suit the occasion. A great pity that  the K2 
does not use something similar with the KSB2, but with available space at  a 
premium, would guess that this would be rather difficult to fit in.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Blank display on 1st power up

2005-02-26 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 27/02/05 03:13:02 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I just  did the 1st aliment smoke test.  Put power to it for the first  
time.  When I turn it on, after a second, something clicks.  The  display is 
lit 
but nothing else.  No letters or anything. Now what?   I wonder if it's one of 
those main chips.  I got this kit partially  assembled in a box.



If it is a K2 check that pin1 has been soldered on U1 the LCD driver on the  
K2 Front Panel board. I and number of other builders missed this  for some 
reason. Difficult to do afterwards as it needs the LCD display  removing to 
really get at it. However it is possible however to bypass this  point with 
care.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem

2005-02-21 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 21/02/05 14:53:44 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I am  trying to install the KSBS2 into my K2.

Problem symptoms are that I get  the Hi Current warning, plus I get no 
variance on my separate receiver  when trying the fine balancing.

The rest of the alignment went okay,  SSBA on BAL gave me good nulls 
with tweaking R1 both on USB and LSB (I  just cannot hear any null with 
the receiver. I get a very strong carrier  (S9+) on my separate receiver 
with SSBA at 3.



---
 
It has not come up in any replies to your question, but it looks that you  
may be getting problems with RF into your microphone socket and the KSB2 audio  
input.
 
Are the KSB2 tests being carried out into a good 50 ohm dummy load?
 
There have been various methods described on the list for combatting  
problems of RF getting into the microphone input, the main one being to provide 
 a 
ground on the microphone socket outer.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 15/02/05 21:20:57 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  understanding of the place to place silicon grease is NOT upon the
outside  of the connector, but rather in the interface between male and
female  connectors.  The idea is to exclude moisture pooling on the  insulator
between the center pin and the outer shell  conductor.



--
 
Silicon grease would only be placed on the inside of the connector, but  
enevitably some can be squeezed out, making it's way to the outside  and in the 
process is transferred to your hands. Once that happens  there is no way in the 
world that most tape adhesives or self amalgamating/self  vulcanising tape 
would adhere to the connector or even itself for that matter.  It only takes an 
exceeding small amount and seems impossible to remove by normal  cleaning. This 
would be why Don, W3FPR was wisely advising caution on the amount  of silicon 
grease used.
 
With self amalgamating tape one has to be careful as some  types are said to 
be attacked by UV, though did use one  brand of it in waterproofing CATV 
connectors in the UK for a number of  years without any problems. Applied the 
self 
amalgamating tape  directly over the connector, then applied a layer of heavy 
duty plastic  tape over the top for mechanical strength and protection.
 
What one uses depends where you live and what the exposure to UV levels  are. 
What could apply in latitudes further away from the equator would not be  
applicable in hotter climates. I lived for many years in the Middle East and  
most types of self amalgamating tape would probably not be usable there due  to 
extremely high levels of UV. Normal plastic tape had a rather short life and  
such things one would use normally in cooler climates such as polypropylene 
rope  and plastic cable ties failed very quickly. The rope was turned to dust 
in 
the  space of little more than a year and plastic cable ties went brittle and  
snapped. Never managed to source carbon loaded cable ties, though nylon TB  
Tywraps did last a few more years longer.
 
The only sealant I have seen that seems to stand most situations is the  
fabric/heavy grease type of tape. This is known commonly as Denso tape  in the 
UK 
and was pretty well standard on professional telecom  installations for 
external connector sealing. Have seen a similar type used  in the Middle East 
for 
the same type of installation, so presume it must be  resistant to the effects 
of UV. This tape or a very similar type  is also used on small bore natural gas 
lines for joint sealing and  protection, so this could be another source of 
supply. Rather messy to use,  though does give extremely good protection to 
external connectors over many  years.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-14 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 14/02/05 19:51:09 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

The good  quality N connector (the type with ground flange) is much more
reliable and  mounted with 25Wtts soldering iron in few minutes .



 
If you wish to spend the money, PL259 are available in pressure sleeve  type 
connectors similar to the better class N and BNC types. Used  these on our 
local VHF repeater duplexer which came as original equipment with  SO239/PL259. 
In the right place the SO239/PL259 combination is entirely adequate  up to VHF 
and most VHF 2 way radios seem to come so equipped. All of the GE  2 way VHF 
radios and repeaters we used at work certainly did. In addition a  great deal 
of the station accessories on the market come already equipped with  SO239 
sockets.
 
It would be wrong get the idea that just fitting N type connectors  will make 
you bullet proof as there are some extremely poor N and BNC connectors  on 
the market much as there are of the PL259 type.
 
The N type connector has a limited moisture barrier, though if the  connector 
has to be used outside in a damp climate, an external moisture  barrier tape 
over the entire connector assembly would be essential. Even so for  any 
connectors that have to be used outdoors, the N type connector would be  
desirable.
 
In the end inside the shack for HF and where moisture should not normally  be 
a problem, it is a matter of using whatever connector you a comfortable with  
and want to adopt as a standard for your station.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] 40M band pass filter alignment - very little signal getting th...

2005-02-12 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 12/02/05 20:13:17 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

All of  the checks were in the expected range, except for U6
pin 8, which was 36.8  ohms instead of greater than 100 ohms


-
 
Check that RFC14 on Q19 source has been fitted to the correct position.  
There is an adjacent ground through hole that if used by mistake will reduce 
the  
U6 pin 8 (8B rail) reading by 270 ohms as R20 then is effectively shorted  
out. Otherwise it is a matter of breaking down the direction of the loading of  
this reading. There are series resistors in some of the paths that can assist 
to  this end.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Keying Waveform Measurement

2005-02-09 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 09/02/05 20:33:27 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

As for  the matter of running a 50 Ohm source into a high Z scope input, Tek 
has a  slick solution. They use these 50-Ohm 2-Watt terminators that you 
apply  right at the BNC connector at the scope input


I picked up some of those with an ex military scope probe kit.  Previously 
used a BNC T adapter with a 75 ohm termination on the spare port  for CATV 
testing with a scope where a terminated line was required. A 50 ohm  
termination 
could be used in the same way if only one has the facility to  dissipate the 10 
or 100W as needed.
 
What I did for this purpose for 2 way VHF radio testing in earlier  times was 
to borrow an idea from the CATV industry where close into the line  
amplifier, the tap off unit from the coax feeder line (T unit) is constructed  
from a 
resistive divider to provide the necessary attenuation. These can contain  as 
little as a single resistor or can be of the terminated type. For my  purpose 
an attenuator was made up in a small in line filter box  with a straight 
through connection which goes from the TX to the dummy  load. Off this a 
resistor or 
a string of resistors is arranged from the center  conductor to a socket for 
feeding into the test equipment. The test equipment  socket was also 
terminated to achieve optimum attenuation. Once the voltage  level has been 
reduced to 
reasonable levels cheaper low power coaxial  attenuators can be used if 
needed. The resistors have to be carbon or other  non inductive types and the 
divide 
ratio/resistor wattage can easily be  work out by math. Made this up many 
years ago and still have the unit  today.
 
It is amazing what one can do with bits of junk when you have hardly two  
cents to rub together!
 
The old UK made, KW Electronics PEP meter which can measure up to 300W  
worked in a similar fashion I found years later was using a resistive  divider 
to 
bring down the voltage levels from the through RF to a level that can  be used 
by the metering circuit.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Middle Side Screw Alteration

2005-02-06 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 06/02/05 23:23:53 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ has self locking Threaded  Inserts -
their PN 90248A016 is 4-40 threaded ID and 6-32 threaded OD - 10  per
package.




---
 
Note that you also need a correct sized installation tool to install  these 
inserts.
We successfully used larger versions of the threaded inserts to install GE  
Mastr II radios inside the cab of GMC and similar pickup cabs used in  extreme 
environments.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power output

2005-02-05 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 05/02/05 17:50:03 GMT Standard Time,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

I have  noticed an irregularity on my K2 output.

When setting the power level a  2 watts, and then using the ATU I get a 
reading on my SWR/power meter in  the line of 4 watts.   Setting power 
on the K2 to 3 watts, I get  4 watts on the in line meter. I thought the 
meter might be faulty, so  replaced it with another with the same 
result.  And the ATU gives me  a reading of, say 1.3:1, whereas the 
SWR/power unit shows  3:1.



-
 
Try replacing the antenna with with a dummy load and see what the result is  
then.
 
The external SWR meter will be a voltage reading device and you may be at  
point where the voltage is higher. Changing to a dummy load should give the  
correct answer.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems

2005-01-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 29/01/05 16:36:57 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

If you  have a balanced antenna 
system, or even an unbalanced system with RF  properly choked off from the 
outside of your coax, there will be no RF on  the chassis that 'as to go 
somewhere'.

In addition, it is very  difficult to provide an RF ground at HF.


-
 
With my shack in an upstairs spare bedroom it is difficult to provide  an RF 
ground in any case, the only ground being the power ground. The house is  
built on rock so I doubt if a ground rod would go in very deep even if I  tried.
 
Opted like Vic for a balanced antenna with balanced feeder. Using 100W have  
not seen any problems unless I try to operate on a band that the antenna is  
not resonant on. Using 75 ohm balanced twin as the feeder as the use of 300 ohm 
 ribbon or higher would be impractical from my shack. The 75 ohm twin seems 
quite  docile in use and can be installed in close proximity to metallic 
objects which  is not recommended for 300 ohm or higher impedance twin feeder.
 
To date the only interference problem have been with telephones whose drop  
wires are parallel to my antenna. The phone company fitted RF filters to the  
affected telephones at the point of entry into the house and one modern  
telephone had to be suppressed internally. Older telephones seem less affected. 
 A 
problem that may be coming up is the use of ADSL broadband would probably  
prevent normal telephone RF suppressers being used at the point of entry to the 
 
house as this would also stop ADSL from working. A separate RF filter at each  
telephone would be the only answer in this case.
 
As a parallel subject there was an interesting article in the February 2005  
Radcom, EMC column advocating the use of ADSL telephone filters as being very  
suitable for use as RF filters on telephones for the lower bands and the  
performance figures for one type of ADSL filter were quoted. See them available 
 
at computer fairs at about £3 each ($5.70 US).
 
Bob, G3VVT 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems

2005-01-29 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/01/05 01:32:53 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

All of  the 75 ohm stuff that I've seen wasn't rated for high voltages
anyway, so  it's likely to melt at the voltage loop when hit with high power.
AT the  very least, it'll be rather lossy. 



---
 
There is more robust USA sourced 1kW rated 75 ohm twin available in the  
market though sadly not as easy to obtain now as in the past. Believe red/black 
 
power cable makes an effective 75 ohm twin feeder and this is available for  
quite high currents though not with high voltages. Am using commercial 75 ohm  
twin feeder cable rated at 300W at present which is very adequate for the 100W  
maximum I use. In any case we have in the UK a maximum license power of  400W 
pep which restricts our exposure to high power effects. Guess would be  
rather different in the USA with your maximum of 2kW pep.
 
QRO can have it's downside!
 
Not sure that the statement that it would be rather lossy is correct as I  
have been led to believe that twin feeder is less lossy than coax and  
particularly the 50 ohm version. Even the 75 ohm hard-line coax as used by 
cable  TV 
companies was always better than the 50 ohm coax in the loss figures for a  
given diameter cable.
 
I do use a resonant 1/2 wave trap dipole on 40/80m only at present  with the 
feeder cut to the length recommended by the antenna designer of 70 ft  (or 
multiples of this). Working towards adding a two extra pairs of traps for  
80/20 
to give added bands of 160m and 20m. With always using resonant antennas  the 
problems that could arise on the twin feeder are minimised and hopefully any  
interference problems as a result. So far telephones seem the only problem  
area.
 
The wider spaced twin feeder would be impossible in my case as the  operating 
position is on the opposite side of the room from the window  and built into 
a fitted wardrobe. At a previous house the shack was  just that, a wood hut 
under the centre of the dipole and wide spaced twin feeder  came direct to a 
balanced ATU.
 
As always it is a matter of cutting the cloth to suit your circumstances.  
What will be suitable for one situation may be hostile in another.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

2005-01-27 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 27/01/05 18:43:15 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  Soloman 4449 is listed as having an isolated tip.

Am I correct in  thinking that this would not be an ESD safe iron?


Believe the isolated tip is done for another reason which was the ability  to 
work on live circuits. Even the venerable Weller TCP soldering iron system  
had a version that used the 2 wire power supply the PS2D. On this the  
soldering iron tip was not connected directly to ground, but instead to a a  
potential 
balance terminal on the PSU that allowed it to be connected to the  workbench 
static ground for working on static sensitive components or working on  live 
circuits.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] RFC1 RFC2

2005-01-24 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 24/01/05 16:49:30 GMT Standard Time,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

...I  built several early production SSB's in which RFC1 and RFC2 were 
mounted flat  against the bottom of the board, in fact, the silk screening for 
them 
still  exists there on the bottom of the latest boards...I don't remember 
reading  anything about why they were moved to the top, but there must have 
been a 
 reason...?...




 
 
Asked Gary at Elecraft only about a week back the same question and he told  
me the toroids need to be on the top to prevent  interference with the 
varactors in the CW IF filter, and to prevent additional  signal leakage or 
signal 
pickup.
 
Have a feeling mine are on the underside as the screen printing shows, so  
will move them if they are when next inside the K2. Will also compare the  
Spectrogram responses between the two methods to see if there any difference  
that 
can be seen there.
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF board part C72 Identity

2005-01-23 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 23/01/05 12:19:41 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  really confusing aspect of it all is a 270 pfd capacitor 
should be  labelled 271, so you have the case where something marked 
270 isn't a  270 pfd capacitor.


-
 
The problem with marking small capacitors is providing the value on them so  
that it is more easily readable. What the manufacturers of the bulk of the  
capacitors now used by Elecraft is that the last digit of the three  provided 
is 
the multiplier. This is just the same as with resistor color  codes.
 
Following this a capacitor marked 271 is 27 with a multiplier of 10 = 270  pF 
(27 x 10 = 270). For a 27pF capacitor this would be marked  270 = 27 with a 
multiplier of 1. (27 x 1 = 27)
This can be useful when higher values of capacitor are used. For example  
0.1uF = 100nF = 100,000pF and would be marked 104. This is 10 with a  
multiplier 
of 10,000 (10 x 1 = 100,000pF).
 
After a while reading the capacitor values becomes automatic just as one  
learns to read the resistor color code. Not really sure which way I read the  
values of resistors, but suspect I look at the last digit first to see the  
multiplier and then the value within that multiplier. Now do the same with the  
capacitors that Elecraft use.
 
The problem arises with this capacitor marking system with values below  10pF 
cannot be accommodated and manufacturers either resort to just providing  the 
value direct or adding a *p* where the decimal point should be. Philips use  
the *p* or the *n* for marking their capacitors. This means a 2.7pF  capacitor 
would be marked 2p7 and a 0.1uF or 100nF capacitor would be marked  100n.To 
be sure I check all the values of the capacitors in doubt with the  capacitance 
measuring facility in my DVM. A large proportion of the DVM seem to  have 
this facility provided even down to the low cost versions and at  least my $50 
DVM will measure down to single digit pF values with reasonable  accuracy.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Low Frequency Modulation of Side Tone.

2005-01-23 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 24/01/05 02:07:20 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Problem  found. I added a fixed audio out port to the K2. Disconnecting the
wire to  the sound card stopped the modulation.  An audio transformer in  line
also eliminated the problem. 



--
 
A similar solution was of value in clearing up my problems in using  
Spectrogram.
 
I was getting spikes on the Spectrogram display at 50Hz (our power freq)  and 
every 100Hz from 150Hz upwards. This was believed to be due to my PC having  
a power line filter installed to clear hash from the PC switch mode PSU and  
this left the PC case floating above ground at RF. Series  capacitors had no 
effect, where a transformer placed in the audio path  completely cured the 
problem.
 
Used a miniature audio transistor interstage transformer for the purpose  
with the higher impedance side to the PC sound card. Would guess a transistor  
output transformer with the usual 1.2K to 4 ohms windings may have been  even 
more suitable, but did not have one in the junk box. The only proviso in  going 
down this path is to use a transformer that has a response well below  300Hz 
and 50 Hz if possible to ensure correct placement point of the BFO is  seen.
 
A totally different problem, though in the end with the same  solution.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 # 4498 - Electrostatic protection

2005-01-22 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 21/01/05 16:18:13 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I'm in a  very stormy country (Northern Alps) and we have at least once per 
month a  thunderstorm that already cost me one pair of power Xstors (in my 
TS-130 -  $380!!!) so even with $5 each TO220 part, I did not want to loose 
them, 
or at  least reduce the chance to loose them.

So I instaled on the KAT2  control board an RF Chock (1 mH) and an NE2 neon 
bulb wired between K18-pin  3/8 and ground just to establish a direct lway to 
ground for static  electricity (via the chock) and in case of a virulent one 
turn on the NE2 and  establish a full short to ground. 




--
-
 
Hi Robert,
 
It is normal practise to install an RF choke directly across the antenna  
socket of tube (valve) PA to protect in case of a failure of the coupling  
capacitors from the tube anode.
 
2.5kV can be very damaging to your health!
 
Suppose these have ceased to be used since the move to solid state PA's.  
From memory 2.5mH was the normal value used in the last one I built in the  
1960's. The addition of a neon to hold off the path until the neon strikes  
should 
not represent any problem though am not entirely sure that it is  necessary 
not knowing the KAT2 circuitry.
 
In professional communication terminal equipment that is connected to  
external lines the inclusion of gas or carbon arresters is a standard feature 
at  
the point where the external line is connected. In addition all of our telecom  
distibution frames and even the distibution pedestals had arresters built in 
as  standard. The protection operation point was selected to be higher than the 
 normal operating voltages on the line. A QRP K2 is listed as providing 70 to 
80V  across 50 ohms and the normal striking voltage of a neon is about 110V, 
so the  neon should not strike. There are however some neons on the market 
that strike  at a lower voltage somewhere in the 60V region and to our cost we 
found these  put a S/C across the phone line when ringing voltage and normal 
telephone  battery were present. These would also operate when the K2 was 
giving 
normal PA  O/P.
 
Probably the choke on it's own would be entirely sufficient to provide the  
protection needed as long as the component was able to handle the current  
required.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Gain control

2005-01-20 Thread G3VVT
Hi Bob,
 
Sounds normal and very much like my K2.
The RF gain in the K2 is really an IF gain with the front end RF gain  set at 
a constant level and only affected by switching in the preamp or the  
attenuator. I have an old JRC receiver where the RF gain works the  same as the 
K2 in 
that the effect as the RF gain is turned down is the  lower level signals 
fall below the threshold as the S meter rises and are  effectively suppressed. 
This is a useful effect to give arm chair copy of  stronger signals and 
minimises the amount of noise between syllables.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Birdie at10m: a choice between a turkey and an ostrich !

2005-01-16 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 15/01/05 23:36:15 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

I know  there was a recent discussion in the forum about this birdie singing 
at  the low end of the 10m band, but did not recall seeing any definitive way 
 
to kill it.
In my case, I want to think of the birdie living in my  K2/100 as a 
substantially bigger one, a turkey (with the K2100 enabled  -power 11w) at 
28.266 (USB), Signal strength S2 with the preamp  enabled changes to  an 
Ostrich (think logarithmically) of a solid S5  !!! at 28.264 when disabling 
the 100W option.



--
-
 
As a benchmark with the antenna socket terminated, i.e. no external antenna  
connected, the only birdie of any real significance with my QRP K2 #4168 is  
at exactly on 28.000MHz.
This is exactly where it should be as the 7th harmonic of a correctly  
adjusted MCU 4.000MHz clock for U6 on the K2 Control board. There are other  
birdies 
between 28.000 to 29.000MHz, but are so feeble that they fall into  
insignificance and none of them move the S meter at all even with the preamp 
on.  This 
is with a receiver that gives S9 on 28.200MHz at 50uV PD with the preamp  
*off* and meets the MDS spec for the K2. I am aware of the birdie at  28.000MHz 
as 
that clashes with a band edge beacon I receive via an external VHF  
transverter. Even with this present it is possible to copy the beacon down  to 
an 
extremely low level with the K2 preamp on.
 
The reported birdie at 28.276MHz is there, but extremely faint at  about 
28.275.6MHz on USB and shifts up to about 28.277.7MHz on LSB. I would  think it 
fair to comment that most ham receivers have birdies somewhere if you  want to 
try hard enough finding them.
 
With what I have found on my particular QRP K2 it may be a good idea to  
remove all the various options added to the offending K2's and go back to  
basics 
to see what the effect is then. Once that test is sorted out the  gradual 
addition of the various option boards should find the offending one(s)  to 
enable 
a solution to be sought.
 
There or no turkeys or ostriches in my K2!
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Threshold Adjustment by Changing R1

2005-01-06 Thread G3VVT
In the reply to Mike, VK1KCK I said R1 is given as 50K preset.  In the world 
outside the USA this would indeed equate to 47K 
 
I found that this is not quite correct as although for carbon presets and  
controls have changed to the same decade values as fixed resistors in  Europe 
at 
least, cermet presets which most probably Elecraft will be  using for R1, 
still retain the older values such as in this case 50K for some  reason.
 
A visual check on my K2 is that R1 when set for 3.70V at U2B-5,  being the 
optimum AGC threshold setting for my K2, the control  is not far from half 
rotation, i.e. about 25K ohms. Working out the  maths for the various resistors 
in 
series and parallel, including the RF gain  control to form the potential 
divider from the 8A rail comes out fairly close to  this voltage.
 
The preset R1 is as shown in the K2 Control Board schematic, maximum  
resistance for fully CCW.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] Birdy on 28020 with K2?

2005-01-01 Thread G3VVT
I monitor 28.020 for long periods with my K2 for a VHF beacon on 70.020 MHz  
that transverts to that frequency. No detectable birdy in my QRP K2 at all on  
this frequency.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] Birdy on 28020 with K2?

2005-01-01 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 01/01/05 12:11:56 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I found a birdie at 28.000 (QRP K2 #3401), but that's too close to the  
band edge to worry about.  None at 28.020.  I'm guessing my  birdie is a 
harmonic of the 4.00 MHz oscillator.
 
--
---



Do confirm this low level birdy on 28.000MHz USB/LSB on my QRP K2.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator Range Solved

2004-12-31 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 31/12/04 04:52:04 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Now to  find out why the BFO range is too low. The BFO high frequency comes 
in above  the expected minimum of =4916.3 at 4918.2 The BFO low frequency 
comes in  above the expected maximum of =4912.7 at 4914.8 with a resulting 
range 
of  3.4 compared to the expected minimum range of =3.6. D37 and D38 are of  
correct values as are X3 and X4


From the schematic the usual suspects would be L33, X3, X4, D37, D38, C173,  
C174 and posssibly C169 with the gate circuit of Q24.
 
However first a check on the of voltage range on the V BFO rail at  U10D-14 
on the K2 Control Board may be helpful. According to the K2 manual  this should 
range between 0 to 8V and with varicap diodes the maximum capacity  which 
would determine the lowest frequency of the BFO is with minimum applied  
voltage. 
If the voltage does not swing low enough this would inhibit the ability  of 
the BFO to reach it's minimum frequency.
 
The crystals may be a bad batch which may occasionally happen pushing the  
frequency in this case too high. The varicap diodes D37/38 type 1SV149 can  be 
damaged by excessive heat during installation. When checked on a  capacitance 
meter recently a new diode came out at about 890pF. One that had  been fried 
that I tested was nearer 820pF. Are the capacitors noted the correct  values, 
place correctly and soldered?
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] zulu time

2004-12-22 Thread G3VVT
Note in the discussions of using Zulu time that keeping a station log is  
apparently no longer required in the USA.
 
In the UK a permanent log of station operation is still mandatory, whether  
it be in a book or by electronic means. Times have to be recorded in UTC (i.e.  
Zulu/GMT) together with other details such as frequency, class of emission 
and  power used. Presumably this requirement is primarily for tracing sources 
of 
 interference to other parties.
 
Probably would keep a record even if it was not mandatory as it is  
invaluable to find out who and when you have contacted in the past.
Getting to the point now anyway where I have brain erasure every time it  
goes dark outside. When this is added to a restricted hearing capability,  is a 
subject to agitate she who must be obeyed in the extreme.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: AGC versus RF Gain versus AF gain

2004-12-21 Thread G3VVT
Micheal,
 
The so called RF gain in the K2 is actually IF gain, which is the same as  
used in the JRC NRD-515 RX. The difference is the K2 has fixed RF front end  
gain before the RX mixer with a switchable preamp or attenuator in addition. 
The  
NRD-515 has no RF amplifier only a switchable RF attenuator in front of the 
1st  RX mixer. Not familiar with what the Kenwood RF gain does in the TS-530S 
or the  TS-930S.
 
The K2 has a slightly strange action in that a strong signal goes to a  
higher S meter reading pretty much as soon as the RF gain is reduced and when  
the 
S meter reading goes higher the RX volume does go down as you say. Not a lot  
but perceptible. It is possible to set the S meter with no signal in to the  
level required, say S9, though when a station is tuned in that was S9 with full 
 RF gain it now reads higher and the audio volume is less.
 
The JRC NRD-515 volume stays constant until a point is reached that the S  
meter reading rises with reduced RF gain and becomes greater than the reading  
for the incoming signal. The RX audio volume then begins to fall beyond that  
point
 
Looks like a quirk with the K2 AGC action or design.
 
My K2 has had the AGC threshold set to the point where switching the AGC on  
and off has no effect on the no signal background noise. Came out in my case 
at  3.70V, though apparently varies slightly from K2 to K2
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] OT-well sort of:Short Wave Receivers...Suggestions???

2004-12-13 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 13/12/04 08:29:29 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm  thinking of buying a short wave receiver like a Grundig or something,
and  have been looking at them on the web. What I have in mind is a very
small,  pocket sized rig, 2 AA cells for power...



-
 
With could be a problem in how you want to power the radio.
 
Most of the digital radios that will cover the frequencies and have the  
facilities you require are greedy on battery consumption or at least were up to 
 a 
few years back. I lived in Saudi Arabia for 20+ years and SW radio for the  
last 13 years was the prime way of getting news. Lived in an area  where the 
nearest black top road was 100km away and no terrestial television,  electric 
power or telephones outside our camp. We did not get any  satellite TV until 
the 
mid 1990's, so SW radio was the only way of keeping track  of the outside 
world.
 
I started with a Sony 2001 in 1981 and that was still OK when I retired in  
2002. Also had the later 2001D which also has the SSB/CW facilities you  need, 
though again greedy on battery consumption, which meant use on a  AC power 
supply was essential. A popular radio was the Sony 7600D used by many  expats 
at 
the time which was somewhat better in terms of battery life. Lost  track of 
what is available today, but for SSB/CW use Sony was always at the top  of the 
pile in the past.
 
Maybe the battery consumption problem has been cracked with more recent  
technology, but the only way at that time was for reasonable battery life was 
to  
use an analog radio and most of these did not have the SSB/CW features nor the 
 frequency coverage required.
 
Bob, G3VVT
ex desert rodent
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Re: [Elecraft] SLA Battery charge level

2004-12-11 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 12/12/04 00:35:05 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

When the  battery is exactly at 13.8 volts, there would be
no  current.



In practice found over the many systems worked on professionally this is  not 
entirely correct.
 
After the charging system comes out of the absorptive charge phase where  the 
voltage has been allowed to rise above the normal bulk charge voltage for a  
limited time and now reverts to the float voltage, the battery indeed does  
not take any charge. It can even supplement the  supply voltage and current for 
a short while after the main charge  cycle.
 
However if one monitors the battery over a longer period after the float  
charge period has started the battery will start to take a small charge that  
eventually settles on the 25 to 50 mA region for small SLA's. It all depends on 
 
the float voltage and the size of the SLA, but with a float voltage of 13.8V 
and  a 12V SLA does definitely occur.
 
Security and fire alarm technicians when carring out routine maintenance  can 
note the current taken by SLA's in the alarm panels under float conditions  
as this can give an early indication of the forthcoming failure of the  SLA. 
For critical systems under a maintenance contract they sometimes replace  the 
SLA's at 2 to 3 year intervals to ensure system reliability under all  
conditions.
 
A good source of SLA's that still have a useful life left in them if you  can 
make contact with one of the technicians and I did!
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Scratchy received audio

2004-12-03 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 02/12/04 10:30:24 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Symptom:-  Received audio sounding scratchy, suspected  loudspeaker.

Problem:-   Bad contact. The plating (Tin ?) had  worn through on loudspeaker 
connector female crimp pins.  



Had a similar problem with the company's 1979 vintage GE Mastr II truck  
radios used in an area with no roads. The continuous vibration caused the board 
 
connector pins from the front panel to the RF/IF/audio board to go intermittent 
 for exactly the same reason, loss of tin coating on the plugs. The solution  
apart from replacing the interboard connectors was to apply an extremely thin 
 coating of lubricant to the pins. This seemed to have a lasting effect on 
the  problem. Just a small smear of WD40 worked wonders. The socket must have 
been  acting as an effective abrasive mechanism on the pin.
Totally unnecessary if the contact remains undisturbed with normal  operating 
conditions, but essential in our case.
 
Bob, G3VVT
ex desert rodent
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Strange Problem ?

2004-11-30 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 30/11/04 16:46:51 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

That's  what I was doing, however, because anything capacitive slows the rise 
of  
the 5A rail, and hence the correct MCU initialisation, I was chasing my  tail.





This is a problem I have come across before about 5 years back where we had  
a newly developed repeater logic controlled by a PIC chip.
 
I had the prototype running the local 2m repeater and the problem was that  
there were what appeared to be clock pulses appearing on the through audio of  
the logic. Attempts to decouple the 5V supply rail were disastrous in that it  
locked up the PIC chip. Eventually traced to the gremlin of delayed voltage 
rise  on the chip due to charging of the decoupling capacitors. This is poison 
to the  PIC chips as they require apparently a very fast rise time on the 
supply  voltage. In our case the problem was self inflicted and was due to 
trying 
to be  clever and using two regulators in tandem. Was cured by reverting to 
only  one regulator fed direct from the incoming DC supply and only just enough 
 
decoupling to clean up the supply line.
 
There is an additional support you can give the PIC chip in start up I  
discovered when trying to fault find on a partially defective chip.
If instead of connecting the PIC chip MCLR pin direct to 5V (see U6 pin 1,  
the MCU on the K2 control board), connect it via a 10K ohm resistor and place a 
 4.7 to 10uF capacitor on the MCLR pin. This resultant delay allows all the  
voltages to stabilise before the chip is enabled. At least it is my belief of  
how the modification works. Additionally I added a diode with the anode to 
the  MCLR pin across the 10K resistor to discharge the capacitor quickly in the 
event  of a power interruption or the chip would again lock up. This was a 
change made  to get over a particular problem with a PIC chip, but could be the 
answer to  some odd glitches experienced recently. We now have this 
incorporated into our  repeater logic as a standard. An entirely different 
usage, though 
one that could  have parallels.
 
Perhaps Eric or Wayne at Elecraft could comment.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] #4472 transmitter setup problem.

2004-11-25 Thread G3VVT
Jerry,  

Did you use a X10 probe with the scope?
 
The problem could be related to the stub effect at the operating  frequency 
caused by the scope leads and the capacitance the scope input  circuit presents 
to the K2. Particularly with RF a X10 probe or a high  impedance detector is 
just about essential to avoid upsetting the circuit you  are monitoring.
 
The same can apply to checks on the 4MHz clock on the K2 control board  where 
the test instrument such as a counter can cause unwanted effects even  though 
it has a high input impedance.
 
Bob, G3VVT

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB low output

2004-11-21 Thread G3VVT
Brian,
 
Before you get too disillusioned with the performance of the K2/KSB2 on SSB  
output with the Heil microphone, what are you using to measure the TX  output 
on SSB?
 
It is essential to use an RF wattmeter that is capable of measuring  true 
PEP, not just one of the joke instruments on the market that add a large  
capacitor across the meter movement when switched to so called PEP. A normal RF 
 
wattmeter will read very low on unprocessed SSB audio. You can go into the  K2 
menu to maximise the microphone gain and if necessary add a degree of audio  
compression which may help.
 
Normally for HF SSB I use a PM-2000 peak reading wattmeter to get sensible  
results. MFJ have a dedicated PEP meter in their arsenal of equipment and it is 
 also possible to adapt a normal wattmeter with an add on circuit to provide 
PEP  measurement with an active peak hold circuit. There was a simple circuit 
using a  single LM358 IC published in the RADCOM magazine in January 1989 that 
I  have used to convert several of my wattmeters. E-mail me if you want to 
check  that circuit out.
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] How to set up SSB

2004-11-21 Thread G3VVT
The option of OP1 or 2.2, etc in the filter selection is for receive  only.
 
However you still have to make sure that the BFO is place correct for the  TX 
filter OP1 and the easiest way to do that is to set up with OP1 in FL1  on 
receive as was finally selected and match the BFO to that with Spectrogram.  
Otherwise the BFO can end up in totally the wrong place with adverse effects on 
 
the SSB TX audio.
 
Unless this is a very recent KSB2, a good improvement to the SSB audio  could 
be made by applying the KI6WX 2,2 or 2.5kHz modification to the KSB2. The  
BFO again would need resetting to match the new filter parameters. Believe  
Elecraft have now adopted the KI6WX 2.2kHz mod as standard on present KSB2  
kits. 
An added benefit is that the filter passband ripple appears to be  
substantially reduced. I did the 2.2kHz mod and find the final result at about  
2.3kHz 
bandwidth with very little passband ripple. All makes for a better  sounding K2 
on SSB TX.
 
Bob, G3VVT
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and FM

2004-11-19 Thread G3VVT
Why on earth would you want to possibly compromise the excellent  performance 
of the K2 when there are cheap purpose built FM transceivers in  abundance on 
the market and second hand they can be picked up for  peanuts?
 
Even without this in mind the immediate problems are:
 
Receiver.
 
Even with using the narrow band FM we have been bullied into adopting in  the 
UK for repeaters, the +/- 2.5kHz deviation will not pass through the 2.0 to  
2.5kHz filters found in the K2. The effect is to cut the carrier off on  
deviation peaks producing what has been nicknamed here the Norman Collier  
effect 
by causing the squelch to close at this instant and chopping up the  received 
audio to make it unintelligible. As a repeater license keeper and  builder am 
acutely aware of this effect by mobiles trying to force a +/- 5kHz  signal 
though our now mandatory 7.5kHz (+/-3.75kHz) bandwidth  filters.
 
I just does not work!
 
For +/-5kHz deviation an IF filter of 15kHz (+/- 7.5kHz) is the norm. To  
incorporate this in the K2 would mean extracting the IF signal soon after  the 
1st mixer Z6 and before the K2 1st IF filters. A totally separate IF,  squelch 
and FM detector strip would be needed with most probably 15kHz  filters to cope 
with older transmitters. Additionally this would really  need to be an 
outboard unit with its own audio amp and speaker. IC's such as the  now 
obsolete? 
MC3357 would take care of all the IF, squelch and detector  functions.
 
Transmitter.
 
FM on transmit could be produced by feeding audio via a suitable coupling  
capacitor into the K2 VCO control line, though the deviation would probably not 
 
be constant on all bands. There is a problem with the TX audio as the peak  
deviation has to be strictly limited in its amount. Even the use of a 
compressor  just does not give the degree of control needed, so an audio peak 
limiter  
stage and subsequent following low pass filter has to be inserted.
 
All in all do you really want to do this when again it could compromise the  
excellent performance of the K2?
 
Bob, G3VVT
Keeper (license holder) GB3LD/GB3LF
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S meter

2004-11-19 Thread G3VVT
Howard,
With regard to S meter readings it does appear at least with my K2  #4168 and 
a later K2 #4324 tested a few weeks back that 80, 40, 30, 20 and 17m  bands 
come out with similar sensitivity in the level required for S9 when  switched 
to the same mode and bandwidth. For 15, 12 and 10m there was a  discrepancy 
with the later serial number being slightly less sensitive. The  alignment 
appeared to be fairly well correct for both K2.
 
With the Elecraft XG1 signal generator the testing for S9 is done at  7040kHz 
with the higher level output at 50 microvolts PD (50uV PD = approx  -73dBm). 
With the AGC threshold set at 3.80V, 50uV was insufficient  to make S9 with 
both these K2. They both needed about 63uV PD to make S9  with the preamp 
switched off and were slightly more sensitive when checked  with CW at 700Hz 
bandwidth compared to SSB with the SSB filter in circuit.
 
However during testing it was found that small variations in the AGC  
threshold voltage had a substantial effect on the level required to make  S9. 
With 
AGC threshold at 3.80V, as noted 63uV was required for S9. Drop  this by 0.1V 
to 
3.70 V, only 40uV was required and again by another 0.1V to  3.60V, only 25uV 
was now needed for S9. With all of the changes in threshold  voltages the CAL 
S HI and CAL S LO needs to be reset at each step.
 
The effect noted was posted on the Elecraft Reflector though only raised  two 
replies in confirmation. Again has anybody else seen this effect of  rising S 
meter sensitivity when lowering the AGC threshold whilst testing the K2  
receiver?
 
The optimum point for the setting of the AGC threshold with my K2 #4168  came 
out at 3.70V, which meant the S meter sensitivity came out at 40uV PD for  
S9. This can be fudged to 50uV for S9 by adjusting CAL S HI if desired. Left  
mine as is for ease of S meter HI/LO setting as per the manual.
 
Assuming the alignment is correct on the K2 reported with low S meter  
sensitivity, it may be worth checking that AGC threshold has been set to at  
least 
the 3.80V initial setting. Well worth checking the K2 Alignment  Instructions 
on Don, W3FPR's web site to ensure that you get everything  correct. 
 
Bob, G3VVT
K2 #4168
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Re: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test, Part II

2004-11-17 Thread G3VVT
Hi Peter,
 
The significant voltage could be the PLL chip PDOUT, U4 pin13.  Check for 
shorts on this pin that would give a zero reading. Not sure if the PLL  chip 
itself would support such a low voltage whilst working normally.  Have seen 
reported of odd effects with RFC15 the DC feed to the PLL  chip U4 pin16, so 
check 
for actual DC continuity with this component.
 
What you do not appear to state and this is very important, is the VCO  
oscillating or not?.
 
Checks with the K2 frequency counter at TP1 would at least help as an  
initial test. The frequency read depends on the band in use and reference to 
the  
table at the beginning of Appendix B gives the range of VCO frequencies to be  
expected. Tests with the RF probe/DMM at TP1 should give a reading  between 
600mV and 750mV according to the Elecraft trouble shooting guide.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Demagnetize Soldering Tip?

2004-11-16 Thread G3VVT
Hi Martin,
 
The Weller TCP soldering iron uses a magnetically operated switch in the  
centre of the soldering iron. The soldering iron tip has a cap on the inner 
edge  
of specific magnetic attraction properties that is neutralised by what I  
believe is called the Curie point effect when this cap reaches a critical  
temperature. This releases the switch actuator and cutting off the 24V feed  to 
the soldering iron heater.
 
You may have to replace the TCP switch assembly, though it would  seem that a 
permanently magnetised tip may be the cause. Try another  soldering iron tip 
first as the actuator switch assembly is rather more  difficult to replace. If 
the tip is the cause it may be possible to demagnetise  it with a TV picture 
tube degaussing wand.
 
A message to all to keep the TCP iron away from speaker magnets,  
particularly the Hi-Fi kind.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering iron story

2004-11-16 Thread G3VVT
The Weller TCP soldering iron must be the best thing since sliced  bread. Got 
mine in 1971 or 1972. Has a black hard bakelite cased PU1D 24V  PSU with a 
Bulgin miniature 3 pin power connector on the side for  the TCP-1 soldering 
iron 
which also uses bakelite for the handle. This version  may be UK specific, 
not sure.
 
Still works fine after all these years, though could do with the 3 core  
silicon rubber soldering iron cord being replaced. Not seen these listed by  UK 
Weller spares sources of late. Have also inherited a later TCP soldering iron  
with the thermoplastic cased PS2D PSU from my late father in law, G3UUA. The 
new  thermoplastic though it may look smart does not hold up to abuse like the 
old  hard bakelite did unless dropped. Not sure if the term bakelite is used in 
the  USA, but a similar material was used for panel meters, tube bases and  a 
multitude of other uses throughout the world.
 
Picked up the matching desoldering attachment that replaces the TCP element  
tube at a junk sale. The rubber bulb has now finally perished with age.
 
Anybody know of a source of replacements for these rubber bulbs?
 
Checks with dealers at later junk sales have drawn a blank apart  from 
thoughts they may have been used by the military in the UK.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Modifications

2004-11-16 Thread G3VVT
Hi Sverre,
 
The link to VE3MCF for the mod to increase KNB2 time  constant does not seem 
to work anymore. Any other source of the mod  details for suggested values for 
C11/C12?
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Signal Generator

2004-11-02 Thread G3VVT
 
If you are checking the gain of the whole K2 RF and IF strip less the  
modification of the IF gain by the effects of AGC, yes, it is possible to use a 
 
lower output from the signal generator.
 
However if you need to go into troubleshooting in greater depth, the 270mV  / 
756mV pk-pk found at the 2nd crystal filter output (product detector input) 
is  far from the lowest signal that will need to be measured. The input to the 
to  the RX mixer Z6 with the preamp and attenuator switched off is listed as 
only  77mV / 215mV pk-pk after the nominal 6dB voltage loss going through the 
low  pass/bandpass filters when 140mV / 392mV pk-pk is inserted at the antenna  
jack.
 
Whilst this will seem a relatively high level there are several pitfalls to  
beware of.
 
Firstly, the oscilloscope will probably be using a X10 high impedance probe  
which would only give 39.2mV pk-pk to the input of the oscilloscope.
 
Secondly, most of the older oscilloscopes had a maximum sensitivity of 10mV  
pk-pk/cm and with this there could be a further caveat that the bandwidth of 
the  oscilloscope was reduced on the lowest range. The common 5MHz bandwidth TV 
 service oscilloscopes of the past came down to only a bandwidth of only 1MHz 
or  so when on the 10mV range. This is not much use when trying to measure RF 
levels  even on 80m.
 
The high signal generator output level advocated by Elecraft in their K2  
troubleshooting info though needed for the use of their supplied RF probe/DVM,  
may be of significance in doing the same measurement with some earlier  
oscilloscopes. Modern high bandwidth oscilloscopes with a  maximum sensitivity 
of 1mV 
pk-pk/cm would fare much better on this score.  You need to check out what 
your particular oscilloscope specifications are and  that it can fulfil the 
task 
before jumping in with both feet to do the  measuring.
 
I approach the troubleshooting of the RX front end and similar measuring  
tasks by using an RF millivoltmeter with a high impedance probe. Was able  to 
acquire a Racal Dana 9301A some years back and that will go down to 1mV FSD  at 
up to 2GHz. This means that I can use much lower levels of RF injection into  
the antenna jack to do measuring in the RX RF section. Found it very useful to  
repair a JRC RX whose front end had been very extensively damaged by a  
nearby lightning strike. The problem is that modern RF millivoltmeters can be 
as  
costly to buy as a good signal generator unless an earlier tube  type can be 
located. There used to be several types available from  manufacturers like 
Heath 
that would measure RF quite successfully and now are  available at very low 
prices.
 
Bob, G3VVT

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[Elecraft] Re: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

2004-11-01 Thread G3VVT
 
The recommendation given in the K2 Appendix E, Troubleshooting/signal  
tracing is to use an input of 140mV to have sufficient level to operate the  
supplied RF probe/DVM.
 
140mV PD is approx -4dBm (0dBm/1mW into 50 ohms is accepted as 225mV PD)  and 
the signal generator I have that gives the highest output only reaches 100mV  
PD or -7dBm. Most of my synthesised generators only go up to approx 70mV or  
-10dBm maximum or even as low as -20dBm in some cases.
 
It would seem that I cannot make the required output level at  all. The only 
signal generators that reach the level required to do the  tests are some of 
the more specialised signal generators such as some of those  in the HP range 
which border on the realms of a low power transmitter and  are far from what 
the average ham or 2 way radio service shop  would have.
 
The only other possibility if a single frequency will suffice would be  to 
build the signal generator given in fig 2 in the K2 signal tracing section  and 
add an external amplifier if needed to make the output level.
 
Bob, G3VVT

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