https://youtu.be/5ZSByNcaDd4
Here is a short video of what I'm seeing on the PX3
Thanks
K4YND
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This may have been this way the whole time and I did not notice. When I
transmit I can see my signal just to the right of the green line. I don't
remember this on the P3 or perhaps I just didn't notice. Is this as it
should be
Don
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Just finished putting together #8622. What a wonderful machine. The dual
watch feature is amazing. I can't wait to take it out for a NPOTA activation
next weekend. I will have a mast bungee corded to the spare tire of the
jeep. On top I will have the SOTA beams linked dipole set up in a inverted
I will be getting a KX3 in the next couple of months and I do like the form.
My K2 sits next to the K3. I switched off the K3 and am working a few Qs in
the RAC contest on the K2.The K2 has a great look, I just thought it might
be a nice option if the KX3 was also offered in a similar case to the
I am going to order a VFO knob from the 73cnc site, I need to determine if I
have a 6mm or 1/4 inch dia encoder.
I tried to measure with my cheap plastic ruler. 6mm is too close to 1/4 for
me to be sure.
I have #7621 purchased 12/16/11.
Thanks
K4YND
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On 20 meters, I hear a s1 signal at 14.057. (it is not heard on my K3)I have
also noticed that if I answer a strong CQ after I stop sending, his signal
has dropped 3 or 4 s units. It will build back up after I stop sending. I
thought it was QSB, but it seems to happen too much. I checked the
Mike,
Now it seems to be fine. I answered a couple of stations booming in for the
WAE on 20 and all is good. Not sure where I had the AGC set, now it is on
fast.
I still hear a internal signal at 14.057. Maybe that is ok?
Don
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With the release of the PX3, I could not help think how great it would look
to have a matching grey box panadapter for the K2. With about 8000 K2's out
there, I bet there would be a sizable market.
Im sure it is much more complicated than just reboxing the PX3, but it sure
would be fun to use
I noticed when I send CW in addition to the sidetone there a thump sound that
I hear on each character or almost each character. It is not noticed on 40
meters. I can hear it some on 20. I hear it more on 12m and then it is the
strongest on 10 meters were it is very noticeable.
I don't hear it in
I just changed the QSK delay to .04 and now the thumps are gone. I would
think I would still hear thumps but not as many I hear nothing and am very
pleased.
Im not sure understand?
73
Don
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K3 # 7462 works great on all bands except 17.
using the XG3 on 18.120
pre on
ant tuner bypass
rf gain 100%
XG3 readings (on P3)
-33dbm - S7
-73dbm - S0 but I can hear sig.
XG3 is ok on TS-830S -73dbm reads S7
any ideas?
Thanks
K4YND
Don
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no,
just double checked, correct ant
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Thanks for the help guys.. several of you emailed and told me I to see if the
RX ant was on..
I wish I could have seen was staring me in the face. Sounds great on 17 now
I have a lot to learn
73
Don
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Fred,
Thanks. I have a lot to learn. I also read the what W4ZV had to say. I cant
wait to get home and adj the receiver.
One more question. What headphones should I use. My favorite is my Kenwood
HS-5 but it is 8ohms. I also have a pair of MFJ 16 ohm headphones. The
manual recommends 16 ohms. If
last weekend I built #7462 (purchased at Dayton). I am thrilled! This weekend
I wil add the 100w PA.
I just did a A/B with my K2 #7261 and noticed the K3 has S5 to S6 noise on
the meter and the K2 has none. The K2 is almost silent until cw station is
tuned in. The K3 also sounds great when a cw
I was using my K1 (20/40)on the back deck with a logwire thrown in the trees
about 45ft long. The counterpoise was about 4 feet. The K1 had no trouble
tunning it on 14.030. I switched to the K2 10 W internal tuner and it did
not like it. The best I could get would be about 2.95/1 on 14.030.
Stan,
I went with the smaller range. As you pick up speed, you will find yourself
migrating to the lower portion of the band. Once you hit 20wpm, a couple of
8 wpm QSO's will use up all of your alloted shack time ( I assume your
married). SOTA usually is not above .061 so your ok there. I have not
Stan,
I had never built a kit before and I built a K1 and K2. ( I had to have Don
help me on the tuner for the K2 but other than that it all went pretty
well). The T1 would be more useful, but I love the idea of working
everthing from the front panel of the K1. I have 4 states left for WAS with
Last night I was listening to the K2 upstairs with a end fed ParZ ant. hung
out the 2nd story into a nearby tree. I decided to do a A/B test with the
Yaesu FT-450D. The K2 had a much lower noise floor and sounded better on
SSB. The S meters were about the same with the K2 being about 1/2 unit
Good point. I guess I am looking for assurance that my K2 receiver is
preforming about how it should with my limited kit experience.
I figure if it hears as well or better than the FT-450D,then I have it
aligned pretty well.
Thanks
Don
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Sounds like you had a blast. Last week I was in Taos, NM (see pic) Sat am
worked Japan with the K1 #2999 on 40. Then flew back to VA. We arrived home
about 7:00pm. XYL approved a run out to the K4LRG field day sight. Was able
to watch four K3's in action. Sunday am, set up my K2 #7261 on the deck
Thanks!
It does not happen on the back deck with the end fed ParZ 20 meter ant. It
only happens on the front with the random long wire, I think your right
about the wind. Very windy. I will abandon the front op and stick to the
safe antenna. I would hate fry my K1. I here for 5 more days. I
Im operating portable from Taos, NM. I am using a K1 on the front porch. the
antenna is a long wire about 80ft drapped over the roof connecred to binding
post on the bact of the k1. The negavtive post has a 6 foot wire connected
to it. The K1 will tune it to 1.5 swr. The issue is almost everytime
I built a K1 was amazed, then built a K2. There is a classic beauty to the
K2, I operated WPX from a upstairs room where the wife was sitting ( counts
as quality time) and worked Austrailia and New Zeland on 12W from Sterling
Va. What a thrill and I built it. I have been watching the KX3 videos
Any chance of using the KAT500 with the K2
Thanks
Don
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Dont worry about 1,000 more. If you really get into this hobby there many
more 1,000 dollar decisions down the road. I have yet to see a Flex on a
SOTA activation video
73
Don
K4YND
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Any suggestions on a external speaker? I like the homebrew one that matches
the K2, but I would not be able to pull that off.
73
K4YND
Don
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Great work!
I just finished #7261 . Im trying to decide whether to get a K3 next or
build a K2/SSB/100w
73
Don
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I finished last night. The receiver/transmit alignmet went well ( I used the
XG3) I had one QSO last night.
He gave me a 599 but said something about freq. I did not catch it.. I have
been calling and answering Cqs with no luck today. So I took the antenna of
my FT-950 and cranked the power on the
Thanks to Don, Im back in business. I corrected my BFO settings per page 93
73
Don
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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7299872/C22_3.3pf.jpg Im not sure
if this is the correct Cap. ( see attached.) It says 2.7C ,, not 2R7
Is this the correct one.?
I bought a $49 dollar radio shack meter today that has a Cap measure
feature. Can I get accurate measurements with this?
I am happy to report everything seems to be fine with the receiver. All
measurements went well and I enjoyed listening to some cw. I thought the
receiver ws spot on 7.020 when I hooked up the XG3. I did all of the
alignement steps before I hooked up the XG3. After that, I played around
with the
The T5 wind is critical, the diagram shows 14 turns but the actual is 16 on
the red wind. My question : where to start the green wire wind (4 turns).
Should I start after the 5th red turn like in figure 6-16, or advance it to
after the sixth.
Thanks
73
K4YND
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I have a chance to pickup a Kenwood DG-5 freq. display for my TS-520SE. It is
also a 40mhz counter in 100hz increments. Could I use it for the 4 mhz
oscillator Calibration on page 63. Is the DG-5 accruate enough for this
purpose.
Im getting close to this test point ( Im putting the crystals in
I am install the Caps on page 52. In trying to get them as close to the board
as possible. I broke the lead on C71. My initial focus on short leads might
result in damaging the capacitors . It looks like some caps will have to sit
up some since their width is less than the width of where they go.
I have finished the thermistor board (page 50) and have it inserted ready to
solder. The manual says to make sure it is positioned to clear C87 and U6.
It looks like I install these on page 52. Should I follow the manual or
would it be better to install U6 and C87 first to make sure I have the
Great help. great pics. I will go ahead and solder it in. I also had trouble
with the tilt stand. It took all my might to bend it inward so it would fit
73
K4YND
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At 9:30, I was close so I pushed on and was able to push the power switch in
at about 11:00pm. The first test/ Aligment went great. What a nice looking
display. It was great to hear the cw when I attached the paddle. I hope to
put in some significant time during the long weekend( XYL may veto).
I am thinking of getting the XG2 or XG3 to help with the aligment of my K2
(#7261). I am to the point where I will do the first power on test of the
control board. It will be a while before I test the receiver. I dont mind
investing a little more if the XG3 will be more helpful?. I alligned the K1
I just want to confirm that the A and K on each sides means Anode and
Cathode. I am placing the A in the + hole on each side. I want to make sure
I dont put it in backwards.
73
Don
K4YND
SN# 7261
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I finished the control board but had the following:
Q1 , Q2 collector resistance (if the collector is the pin closest to the
edge of the board) both were 3.56K ohms. Manual calls for Above 1 Mega Ohm.
The other non base pins both were infinite on my meter but I think they are
the emitters?
U6
Don,
Thanks!. Im on to the front panel board.
73
Don
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C4 is so much bigger than the other caps. I had to bend one lead back under
the body to get it to slide in. I assume this is ok?
Thanks
k4YND
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Once I get my K2 up and running I would be very interested in mating the K2
with the P3. If I could get it close to a plug and play, The P3 would be my
next purchase. Is this something that will be coming soon?
73
K4YND
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I ordered a K2 today. Can someone tell me a specific vendor and solder that
would be good to use. I was also wondering if anyone has a good idea for a
cheap magnifying lamp. I have the static mat and strap from my K1 build.
Anything else I might need?
73
Don
K4YND
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Don- Thanks!!! I did exactly what you said and everthing is in order. My low
pass toriods looked good. I had not tuned the KATV1 properly. I was just
sending CQ on 14.040 and see a nice 5 bars with the power set to 5 watts. I
cant wait to get the K2.
73
Don
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I adjusted the K1 again ( transmit adj) the receiver sounds louder on 20. I
still cant seem to get 5 watts out. When Im around 14.010 its is 4 bars (
ant tuner says the swr is 1.1) and as I move up (14.040) it will sometimes
drop to 3 bars( tuner once again says 1.1) . On 40 I do get 5 bars. I am
I have a K1 with a 40/20 filter board. The receiver is much louder on 40. The
signals just jump out with plenty of audio. On 20 the signals are not as
strong. Every once in while I will hear a strong signal on 20.
I suspect that 20 is just not as loud. I have made contacts on 20 to include
I loved building and using the K1 (#2999). I am saving up for a K2 as fast as
I can. I hope there are no plans to pull it once the KX3 comes out. If so I
can buy early?
73
K4YND
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I finished my K1 works great, I see I am getting 5 watts out on my SWR
meter.. I have made several QSO's already.. My problem is during alignment
the power meter always said P=0.1 no matter what I did. Also when I transmit
I do not see the bars that are supposed to show a bar per watt. I do see a
Problem solved thanks to Don.. Jumper was only covering one pin
#2999 works as it should
73
K4YND
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