I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with my Kx3/KXPa100. I know
the person I bought it from well and I am 99.% sure it is not an
issue with the amp or tuner.
I was making some notes (a chart) for input to output power levels,
mostly just to ‘get to know’ the amp a little better. At th
A dummy load may verify that the KPA/KAT are working properly. I am
guessing that something is arcing in your antenna system. Perhaps water
ingress. Have you run high power into it with a different amp?
John KK9A
On March 12 Alan Lambert wrote:
I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with m
I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have a K1
with the KAT1 ATU and am using an A/B switch to swap antennas. Three
times now when I swap antennas with the power on the K1, it shorts out
diode D19 in the final. I can solve the problem by always powering down
before the swa
I have done this with a repurposed A/V selector switch and custom-made
cables.
Amazon has a cheap one that worked for me:
https://tinyurl.com/y8oczmle
S-video is 4 conductor, so that was used to switch the key between the
radios. I just wired up old 3 conductor 1/4" cables to svideo (mini-DIN)
p
I built, about 20 years ago, a small Bud box, 2 x 2 x 1 3/4, three female
jacks on the back and a DPDT mini toggle switch with center off position.
It has worked perfectly. The center off position keeps me from sending
when I bump the paddle accidently.
73,
K4TO
On Mon, Mar 12, 2018 at 8:21
I had a similar problem but only on 160m. would work fine for a few minutes
at full power, fine at reduced power. After much hair tearing discovered
that it was a voltage transformer in an external coupler heating up and
losing inductance, effectively shorting the feeder. Cured by using a larger
to
Power readings here in Ypsilanti . . .Using the KX3/PX3/KXPA100 for
several years now AND enjoy it very much; including a keyboard into the
PX3 for some fun on CW too ~ but mostly use the Navy flame-proof key
with SKCC activity (# 6099T)
Here are my reading on the METERS on the SEC-1235 power
I have experienced the exact same issue, and I posted about it here. In my
case, it was being caused by my MFJ remote auto tuner. I had also
suspected an Alpha Delta surge suppressor that was outside the shack prior
to cable entry, and I had removed that. The MFJ had a relay clicking on
every ke
Thank you Jan!
Also a thank you to the private direct reports.
I'm in a temporary limited shack condition. To KIS, using a K2/10 with a
battery. While sending an endless string of auto-keyer 10W CQs on 20M my
mind wondered to: what is the addition battery drain for 3 dB?
Testing a K3, the bias c
Hi Doug,
I am currently using two of the following switches and they work
perfectly.They switch 1/8" stereo plugs so if you are currently using 1/4"
plugs you would need reducers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTKFKMG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use my K3 for local operat
Jim Ragsdale writes:
> I've been wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have a K1
> with the KAT1 ATU and am using an A/B switch to swap antennas. Three
> times now when I swap antennas with the power on the K1, it shorts out
> diode D19 in the final. I can solve the problem by always p
Jim,
D19 is intended to sacrifice itself instead of the PA transistor from
events like high SWR or power supply surges.
That means your antenna switching is likely producing a voltage spike
when switching.
Possibilities that I can think of include switching an antenna which has
a bias T ne
Greetings, can anyone suggest how to connect a KX3 to a non-Elecraft amp
keying circuit? I'm thinking I should use a small reed relay to do the
keying. The amp uses the typical grounding a pin on the amp to key up
amplifier.
Many thanks, 73
k6sdw~ Ed
_
Hi Ed,
The KX3 specification rates the key line at: "Accessory I/O (ACC2 Jack)
KEYLINE: 30 V, 100 mA max, open drain;" on page 54.
The amplifier should also have a specification. As long as the amp is
under 30V and 100 ma, all will be OK with a direct connection. If the
amp does not have a specif
>But now I need three receivers. Two for diversity and one to scan the
pileup.
K4
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Actually, I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying
to break a pileup when the dx station is particularly weak. The P3 + VGA is
helpful in spotting when diversity is on and I can’t hear the pileup.
Vic 4X6GP
> On 12 Mar 2018, at 22:23, Ralph Parker wrote:
>
> >But n
>I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying to
break a pileup when the dx station is particularly weak.
>The P3 + VGA is helpful in spotting when diversity is on and I can’t
hear the pileup.
When my diversity is in use, I can get by fairly well in deciphering the
pileu
Hi Folks,
Just learning my way around the KRX3A. For reasons I can't determine, it
stopped working on 20 and 17 meters. Works fine on the other bands. I
have tried with both main and AUX antennas. I know it worked when first
installed. B_SET settings all seem normal, mode, bw, atten, etc. I
And I got the sub-receiver because I kept confusing the tuning
knobs when using REV. It greatly improved my life in pileups.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 3/12/18 at 4:56 PM, ve...@shaw.ca (Ralph Parker) wrote:
I sometimes find myself switching diversity on and off while trying to break a
pileup when the
All this talk about how great Diversity is had me wondering, but when I try
it out I realized I had to move the receiving antenna to the Aux RF jack.
The Kady boom mentions using an RF splitter to allow the receive antgenna
to be used for both purposes.
What have other members of the list used for
On 3/12/2018 5:39 PM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
What have other members of the list used for this purpose?
I've used both BNC Tee connectors and lab-grade passive splitters made
by MiniCircuits. Both work.
73, Jim K9YC
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Elecraft mail
Hi
This is my first help idea. Perhaps your sub receiver is not connected
to an active antenna on 17 and 20 meters.
I have done stuff like that and pulled my hair out until I realized the
above.
luck
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Lock VFO A on the DX. My "Split" macros do exactly that.
Wes N7WS
On 3/12/2018 5:01 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
And I got the sub-receiver because I kept confusing the tuning knobs when
using REV. It greatly improved my life in pileups.
73 Bill AE6JV
__
My trick is to use the Pigknob or K-Pod on the subrx frequency. That
keeps two big knobs away from each other.
The other trick is to put CW maros on the buttons. It made working the
W1AW/50 stations a lot of fun a couple of years ago.
On Mon, 12 Mar 2018, Wes Stewart wrote:
Lock VFO A on the D
Chuck,
All you need to do is run your RX Ant into the BNC connector labeled RX IN,
Then run a short cable with BNC males on each in between the RX OUT and the AUX
in (under the PL259 connector for ant 1 and 2).. Works great, when you go to
diverse receive, the main receiver is listening on y
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