Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Cecil Thomas
It might be too obvious to point out but I would feel the need to ask 
about the current output capability of the 24 and 36 volt supplies or 
batteries.

A 36 volt supply that can't output the motor's rated current is not 
going to turn the motor as well as a 12 volt supply with ample 
current capacity.

That question should be answered before the supply was even considered.

Cecil


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Re: [Emc-users] 2.6.4 to 2.6.7 update without a network connection?

2015-03-29 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
On 03/28/2015 04:43 PM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 28 March 2015 at 21:44, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Where do I download the update from 2.6.4 to 2.6.7 to sneakernet to a PC
 with the Debian Wheezy LCNC install?
 
 http://buildbot.linuxcnc.org/dists/wheezy/2.6-rt/binary-i386/

That link has the interim builds of the 2.6 stable branch.  Actual
releases are here:

http://linuxcnc.org/dists/wheezy/2.6/binary-i386/


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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 29 March 2015 15:50:39 Cecil Thomas wrote:
 It might be too obvious to point out but I would feel the need to ask
 about the current output capability of the 24 and 36 volt supplies or
 batteries.

 A 36 volt supply that can't output the motor's rated current is not
 going to turn the motor as well as a 12 volt supply with ample
 current capacity.

This is true, but if the supply was loaded that far beyond its 
capabilities, I'd also expect it to release its magic smoke well before 
the times the OP said he had tested it.  Even if he was using a triplet 
of 916 batteries, to get his 36 volts they would have to be pretty well 
used to fail as bad as he claimed without failing with smoke  sound 
effects.

Fresh ones loaded that heavy would probably have smoked in a minute or 
less.

This is a case of having lots of info presented, 90% of which is not 
being backed up by a clarifying reply.

At this point, I am wondering if English is not the OP's first language.

 That question should be answered before the supply was even
 considered.

 Cecil


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Re: [Emc-users] Not ACME, ballscrews! Re: Anyone have leftovers from a 9x20 CNC conversion?

2015-03-29 Thread Karlsson Wang
I have a left over ball screw but do not know the price for these, It is around 
2.5 metres long and I bought it used for below $100


On Sat, 28 Mar 2015 23:52:59 -0600
Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:

 On 3/28/2015 8:46 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 
  I need to be finding some good ACME rod for the 9x20 CNC, motors etc.
 
 Scratch the ACME. Today I snagged a homebuilt XY table to cannibalize 
 for parts.
 
 http://boise.craigslist.org/art/4894831991.html
 
 Across the gantry it has a 0.37-ish rolled ballscrew with a nut threaded 
 on one end, with a max OD of .247 I have the saddle channel plowed out 
 to nearly that, can easily go the extra few thou to have it just 
 clearing. Will run a big ballnose down the center if it needs to be 
 lower down. Of course that screw will need shortened a bunch. I plan to 
 give it as much cross slide travel as I can.
 
 The other axis is a vintage Star ballscrew linear actuator made in 
 1997, inside a 2x2 aluminum extrusion with a block on one side. I'll 
 mount that to the side of the bed with the block down (keep the chips 
 out of the open side) and make a dead simple bracket to mount from the 
 side of the block to the original apron mounting holes on the saddle.
 
 And it has motors, bleeping expensive Superior Electric Slo-Syn 200 step 
 steppers. A NEMA 34 connected to the Star actuator direct drive with a 
 Lovejoy and a NEMA 23 with a belt drive to the other axis. The builder 
 for some reason put the large pulley on the motor.
 
 The table is HEAVY, made of nicely put together wood. It shall become 
 the new seat upon which my PLM2000 mill will set, after removal of 
 everything screwed down to its top. It looks deceptively weedy in the 
 photos but it's around 4 feet tall. Took three people to get it into the 
 truck and we had to tilt it up on one edge then down onto the tailgate 
 to lift and slide it in.
 
 Cost? $300 cash money. :)
 
 Some of the other parts may migrate their way into a 3D printer I'm 
 wanting to build. Need to do something with the 30 feet of 40x40mm 
 aluminum t-slot extrusion and various corner plates and angle brackets 
 I've been given.
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Smart little device for zeroing

2015-03-29 Thread Gene Heskett


On Saturday 28 March 2015 23:53:53 Scott Salrin wrote:
Thanks again for the words of encouragement the other day, guys.
 I've been thinking, which has always been dangerous for me. I need to
 bounce my thoughts off of some smart people, to set me straight.

 First let be beg forgiveness if this is inappropriate, or if I pull
 this thread off topic... It seemed dead anyway.

 As I mentioned, I have not received the machine yet, so all of this is
 theory at this point. The router is a Probotix Nebula, and will come
 ready to make chips out of the crate, but I have a lot to learn in
 preparation and trying to figure it out on my own is starting to hurt.
 I am having a tool length switch installed and it will come configured
 with a tool changing routine. The routine is called by a o100 command.
 I am also having a 4th axis rotary installed.

 This is where I am confusing myself. I haven't purchased the cam yet,
 but do believe it will be vectric aspire. This means the the rotary
 work will have to be wrapped around I believe the x axis, in this
 case, at the post processor. I also want to use the makers guide
 featured in the attached video, foe most of my work, and will need to
 pull off all the custom buttons and code to make that happen.

 Am I correct in thinking that all the coding I'll need to do will be
 in absolute co-ordinates, and not affected by the gcode that is
 wrapped around the x axis. Like if I set the rotary to be say a G55
 work co-ordinate, and run a wrapped gcode file that has tool changes
 in it, when a tool change routine is called the machine will go to the
 tool change position, wait for me, do the routine and go back to G55
 and start running the wrapped code again?

 Or, is it going to sit there after the new tool length offset and spin
 the A axis instead of travelling back the the work offset origin?

 Here is a link to the code Probotix uses:
 http://www.probotix.com/wiki/index.php/Automatic_Tool_Length_Sensor

That page, after I hit ctl+ enough times to make it readable, contains 
one statement right at the top that with linuxcnc, is not true, and 
represents that each tools operations have to be in a separate file.  
With the use of different co-ordinate systems, the splitting of files, 
such as an eagle drill file where many different drill sizes are used, 
the auto tool length subroutine is inserted as a wrapper around the M6 
T# issued eac h time its found in the generated file, doing the tool 
length measurements and correcting the co-ordinate system used for the 
next drilling operations.  To use eagle as the gcode source via 
pcb-gcode, I have written tedautoz.ngc for top of board operations, and 
bedautoz.ngc for bottom of the board operations.

I am changing tool/drills manually on my toy mill but these routines 
handle the rest of it.  Once the pallet co-ordinates are known, and 
tholefinder.ngc has located a small brass pipe inserted into one corner 
of the pallet and connected to the G38.2 probing pin of the parport, has 
located the center of that pipe, then the rest of the code consists of 
inserting the xy offsets into a g55 system for top operations, and a G56 
system for bottom operations.  Net result is that while the jig shown in 
a recent video link is purty, I didn't have to make one since its 
placement looks like an error source to me.  So I measure a pipe glued 
into the pallet for x/y zeroing and measure the pcb itself for the z 
zeroing.

I can drill to -0.033 thru the FR-4 with a .0315 drill, turn the board 
over and run the bottom drills to that same depth, getting one hole with 
virtually no offset errors where the two drill operations meet in the 
middle of the pcb's thickness.

You can get those 3 routines from my web page in the sig, in: 

Genes-os9-stf/LCNC

and use them as templates to write your own, or just edit them to suit 
your tools. My tholefinder.ngc expects a different tool in the form of a 
sewing needle threader wire soldered into the end of a 1/8 brass pipe 
from the hobby shop, and reformed a bit into a sharp pointed profile, 
bent to center it as well as you can, and is used by running the spindle 
slowly, about 300 rpms.  Then it descends until  first contact is 
detected, backs up to clear that initial contact, then begins the xy 
search, recording each contact, does the math to find the exact center 
of each direction, records it in the coordinate system to be used, then 
backs up to a good height allowing it to be extracted and the first tool 
mounted.  Repeatable accuracy in my toy mill is generally less than a 
thousandth with this method.

One thing I had to do because that contact is fleeting, was to add a ten 
uf tantalum capacitor to the G38.2 probe detector line, effectively 
prolonging the contact long enough for LCNC to reliably detect it.  The 
probe in the form of that wire, becomes a perfect cone of wire because 
its rotating.  And it can, if you forget to connect the probe cable to 
it, be bent and 

Re: [Emc-users] Smart little device for zeroing

2015-03-29 Thread andy pugh
On 29 March 2015 at 04:53, Scott Salrin scott.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here is a link to the code Probotix uses:
 http://www.probotix.com/wiki/index.php/Automatic_Tool_Length_Sensor

Their approach to tool-length sensing is to replace the M6 tool change
command with a call to a subroutine which probes the tool length and
then issues the tool-change command. Basically it adds moves and a
probe before and after the M6 command.

In the newer versions of LinuxCNC you can re-define the behaviour of
M6, so you can in fact leave your G-code using M6 for tool-change and
the effect will actually be to call the 100.ngc subroutine.
(The M6 in the re-mapped subroutine is interpreted as a normal M6,
the subroutine doesn't keep recursively calling itself)
This would be the minimal remap described in section 5.6 here:
http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/remap/structure.html#_making_minimal_changes_to_the_built_in_codes_including_tt_m6_tt

However, the Probotix post-processor for Vectric is set up to use the
O100 CALL rather than M6, so if you are using that postprocessor
things should work without the remap process.

As for whether the tool-change macro will lead to frantic spinning of
the A axis rather than X movement, that rather depends on how the
4th-axis work is configured. If it is an alternative machine config
which has the A-axis stepper driven by the G-code X-word then I rather
suspect that it would. But there are other ways that it might be done.

-- 
atp
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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[Emc-users] Teleop and soft limits

2015-03-29 Thread Tomaz T .
How to properly setup machine, that soft limits wouldn't be ignored when jog in 
teleop (world mode)?  
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Re: [Emc-users] Cleaning machinery

2015-03-29 Thread Stuart Stevenson
If the machine is covered with water soluble coolant residue then soap and
water will clean it easier than petroleum products.
I usually try hot/warm soap and water first.
Purple Power is amazing also.


On Sat, Mar 28, 2015 at 9:22 PM, Dave Cole linuxcncro...@gmail.com wrote:

 Scrape off all you can of the heavy stuff.

 http://www.ehow.com/way_5434198_homemade-engine-degreaser.html

 The kerosene mix works very well on heavy grease.   Spray it on, let it
 sit, brush and wipe it off, repeat.  Dawn dishwashing soap works well
 with kerosense.  Buy big bottles of it from Sam's/Costco etc.  It works
 best when things are warm of course. Aim a space heater at the
 machine for a while and get it up to 80-90 degrees then spray it on and
 things will go much faster.
 I've used that solution for years to clean up dirty engines.A cheap
 pump up tank sprayer such as used for weeds etc works fine.

 Dave

 On 3/28/2015 7:42 PM, richsh...@comcast.net wrote:
  I just bought a 1975 vintage Anayak FV2 mill, imported to the US by
 DoAll. It has so much grease, muck, and yuck on it, I need to clean it. So
 far I've tried citrus based solvent, paint thinner, automotive, parts
 cleaner.. Applying it via green and brown scotch brite pads. Any
 suggestions on a degrease process?
 
  - Original Message -
 
  From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
  To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
  Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 2:44:22 PM
  Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 78
 
  Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to
  emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 
  To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
  https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
  or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
  emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
 
  You can reach the person managing the list at
  emc-users-ow...@lists.sourceforge.net
 
  When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
  than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest...
 
 
  Today's Topics:
 
  1. Re: Possible New Lathe (richsh...@comcast.net)
  2. ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com)
  3. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (Dave Cole)
  4. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com)
  5. 2.6.4 to 2.6.7 update without a network connection?
  (Gregg Eshelman)
 
 
  --
 
  Message: 1
  Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 15:24:42 + (UTC)
  From: richsh...@comcast.net
  Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Possible New Lathe
  To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
  Message-ID:
  1991675046.16595850.1427556282912.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
  Boris? Obviously, an oversize Van Norman vertical mill, I'd say 7,000
 lbs or so.
 
  - Original Message -
 
  From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
  To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
  Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 11:45:16 PM
  Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 76
 
  Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to
  emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 
  To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
  https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
  or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
  emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
 
  You can reach the person managing the list at
  emc-users-ow...@lists.sourceforge.net
 
  When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
  than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest...
 
 
  Today's Topics:
 
  1. Re: Converting straight lines to arcs? (andy pugh)
  2. Re: Tsudakoma TRNC-201S on a bridgeport Interact Series II?
  Crazy? (Gregg Eshelman)
  3. Re: Possible New Lathe (Gregg Eshelman)
  4. Anyone have leftovers from a 9x20 CNC conversion? (Gregg Eshelman)
  5. Re: Possible New Lathe (Gregg Eshelman)
  6. Re: Velocity closed loop + Position losed loop on an axis
  (Jon Elson)
  7. Re: Velocity closed loop + Position losed loop on an axis
  (Karlsson  Wang)
 
 
  --
 
  Message: 1
  Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 00:36:39 +
  From: andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Converting straight lines to arcs?
  To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
  emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
  Message-ID:
  CAN1+YZVdhS=mnazvq02zh_qyjpfjslncriremqhknmhhrdx...@mail.gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
 
  On 28 March 2015 at 00:13, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:
  Will it allow saving/exporting the modified G-code file?
  It looks like that is _all_ it allows.
 

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 29 March 2015 07:13:54 kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
[...]
Locally, Lowes sells them for about $35.

 No IR thermometer
 I ran the motor on 12 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only
 barely warm to touch Then I ran the motor on 36 volts for about 1 hour
 and the chip was only barely warm to touch The 36 volt power supply is
 close in the same container so I disconnected it and ran the motor on
 batteries Same results the motor is very weak

I wasn't referring to the chip temps, I was more interested in the motors 
temp, which being a relatively massive item to heat, taking a boring 
amount of time to reach a stable operating temp, a temp thats quite 
likely to be too hot to touch comfortably.  But either you didn't notice 
because it wasn't getting too hot., or didn't feel it for heat.  They 
will run hot, uncomfortably hot in normal operation.

And contrary to what somneone else said, the driver components will 
actually run cooler at the higher voltages because most of them 
are hexfets with on resistances measured in milliohms and at the high 
voltages spend less time in the on state to reach the regulated current 
point at the higher voltages, they will actually run cooler as the 
voltage rises, up to the rated voltage.  Because of the higher on time 
at lower voltages, the 2M542 driver is not recommended to be run on less 
than 24 volts.  This is a 50 volt rated, max of 4.2 amps driver 
available on fleabay, for less than $50 a copy. When I fried the 3rd 
xylotex, I bought 7 of them, 3+ years ago, 2 for my lathe and 4 for the 
mill since it can also have a rotary table.  The 7nth one has now been 
used as a test mule, set for a /8 stepping, driving a 425 oz/in triple 
stack nema 23 motor at speeds up to 3000 rpms on a 47 volt supply, long 
enough to prove it can do it. The motor gets hot, but the driver is 
running maybe 5 degrees above ambient, at 1/2 its max amps rated output 
as the test motor is an 8 wire, wired in series.

You haven't said, other than you built them yourself, what your driver 
is, so we are all in the dark trying to read between the lines.  Perhaps 
you can supply a link to where you obtained the schematic for it?  I am 
a CET, and perhaps might be able to see why its not working as 
advertised.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread andy pugh
On 29 March 2015 at 16:41, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 You haven't said, other than you built them yourself, what your driver
 is, so we are all in the dark trying to read between the lines.

He said that they were these:
http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm



-- 
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If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] Cleaning machinery

2015-03-29 Thread Peter Blodow
Try to remove what can be removed mechanically with a scraper etc. Then 
I use strong anionic detergents like in household baking oven cleaner or 
motorcycle spray, letting them soak in for an hour or so, reapplying 
wehre drops have run down or drying shows. Only the very last traces are 
left for organic solvents.
I used to know a shop where used machinery was cleaned up and made ready 
for re-selling. They had an ordinary hand held high pressure gun, but 
instead of hot water supplied with hot heating oil (or kerosene, if you 
like), the machines being supported on gratings above a car washing pit. 
There is no dirt that can withstand that. Afterwards, to remove the oil, 
washing with detergents and hot air drying followed. After all this the 
machines were ready to be sprayed with new paint.

Peter


Am 29.03.2015 01:42, schrieb richsh...@comcast.net:
 I just bought a 1975 vintage Anayak FV2 mill, imported to the US by DoAll. It 
 has so much grease, muck, and yuck on it, I need to clean it. So far I've 
 tried citrus based solvent, paint thinner, automotive, parts cleaner.. 
 Applying it via green and brown scotch brite pads. Any suggestions on a 
 degrease process?

 - Original Message -

 From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 2:44:22 PM
 Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 78

 Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net

 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest...


 Today's Topics:

 1. Re: Possible New Lathe (richsh...@comcast.net)
 2. ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com)
 3. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (Dave Cole)
 4. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com)
 5. 2.6.4 to 2.6.7 update without a network connection?
 (Gregg Eshelman)


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 15:24:42 + (UTC)
 From: richsh...@comcast.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Possible New Lathe
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Message-ID:
 1991675046.16595850.1427556282912.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 Boris? Obviously, an oversize Van Norman vertical mill, I'd say 7,000 lbs or 
 so.

 - Original Message -

 From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 11:45:16 PM
 Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 76

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 than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest...


 Today's Topics:

 1. Re: Converting straight lines to arcs? (andy pugh)
 2. Re: Tsudakoma TRNC-201S on a bridgeport Interact Series II?
 Crazy? (Gregg Eshelman)
 3. Re: Possible New Lathe (Gregg Eshelman)
 4. Anyone have leftovers from a 9x20 CNC conversion? (Gregg Eshelman)
 5. Re: Possible New Lathe (Gregg Eshelman)
 6. Re: Velocity closed loop + Position losed loop on an axis
 (Jon Elson)
 7. Re: Velocity closed loop + Position losed loop on an axis
 (Karlsson  Wang)


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 00:36:39 +
 From: andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Converting straight lines to arcs?
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Message-ID:
 CAN1+YZVdhS=mnazvq02zh_qyjpfjslncriremqhknmhhrdx...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 On 28 March 2015 at 00:13, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Will it allow saving/exporting the modified G-code file?
 It looks like that is _all_ it allows.



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Re: [Emc-users] Cleaning machinery

2015-03-29 Thread Dave Caroline
Some times it just needs to be a complete strip so you can remove bad
paint and rectify faults. My hobbing machine probably from the 1940s
had revolting paint and grime on the outside and a layer 1/2 to 1
thick in the coolant tank which is integral but under the main unit,
plus the slide had rusted and I planned on cnc so needed to get inside
to see what gearing ratios etc were in it.

Cleaning was a white spirit to remove outer grime then wire brush on
cast finishes, for joint faces I use a HSS lathe tool but ground as a
scraper, not too sharp, great for getting the jointing compound or
surface rust off cast iron without the damage a sharp wire brush can
inflict.

Some surfaces need a fine wet and dry paper(880-1200 grit) to make
them pretty again.

an example
http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchstr=barber+colman

Dave Caroline

On 29/03/2015, Peter Blodow p.blo...@dreki.de wrote:
 Try to remove what can be removed mechanically with a scraper etc. Then
 I use strong anionic detergents like in household baking oven cleaner or
 motorcycle spray, letting them soak in for an hour or so, reapplying
 wehre drops have run down or drying shows. Only the very last traces are
 left for organic solvents.
 I used to know a shop where used machinery was cleaned up and made ready
 for re-selling. They had an ordinary hand held high pressure gun, but
 instead of hot water supplied with hot heating oil (or kerosene, if you
 like), the machines being supported on gratings above a car washing pit.
 There is no dirt that can withstand that. Afterwards, to remove the oil,
 washing with detergents and hot air drying followed. After all this the
 machines were ready to be sprayed with new paint.

 Peter


 Am 29.03.2015 01:42, schrieb richsh...@comcast.net:
 I just bought a 1975 vintage Anayak FV2 mill, imported to the US by DoAll.
 It has so much grease, muck, and yuck on it, I need to clean it. So far
 I've tried citrus based solvent, paint thinner, automotive, parts
 cleaner.. Applying it via green and brown scotch brite pads. Any
 suggestions on a degrease process?

 - Original Message -

 From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 2:44:22 PM
 Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 78

 Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net

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 https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
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 emc-users-ow...@lists.sourceforge.net

 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest...


 Today's Topics:

 1. Re: Possible New Lathe (richsh...@comcast.net)
 2. ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com)
 3. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (Dave Cole)
 4. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com)
 5. 2.6.4 to 2.6.7 update without a network connection?
 (Gregg Eshelman)


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 15:24:42 + (UTC)
 From: richsh...@comcast.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Possible New Lathe
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Message-ID:
 1991675046.16595850.1427556282912.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 Boris? Obviously, an oversize Van Norman vertical mill, I'd say 7,000 lbs
 or so.

 - Original Message -

 From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 11:45:16 PM
 Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 76

 Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net

 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
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 emc-users-ow...@lists.sourceforge.net

 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest...


 Today's Topics:

 1. Re: Converting straight lines to arcs? (andy pugh)
 2. Re: Tsudakoma TRNC-201S on a bridgeport Interact Series II?
 Crazy? (Gregg Eshelman)
 3. Re: Possible New Lathe (Gregg Eshelman)
 4. Anyone have leftovers from a 9x20 CNC conversion? (Gregg Eshelman)
 5. Re: Possible New Lathe (Gregg Eshelman)
 6. Re: Velocity closed loop + Position losed loop on an axis
 (Jon Elson)
 7. Re: Velocity closed loop + Position losed loop on an axis
 (Karlsson  Wang)


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 00:36:39 +
 From: andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Converting straight lines to arcs?
 To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
 

Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread kqt4at5v
 On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Gene Heskett wrote:

 On Saturday 28 March 2015 19:36:09 kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Bertho Stultiens wrote:
 On 03/28/2015 08:37 PM, kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a question about the voltage to drive a stepper motor
 12 volts works but higher voltages make the motor weaker
 I am building a simple stepper driver
 A nema 23 2.7 amp stepper motor and 36 volt power supply
 The controls are hand held, forward ,reverse, stop, and speed
 I built the controls and driver using a 12 volt battery to test
 Now I completed the project and am using the 36 volt supply
 The motor runs at the same speed but it is so weak I can hold the
 shaft and stall the motor This is also the same with 36 and 24 volt
 batteries
 With a 12 volt battery I can not stall the motor
 I am using http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm
 and an Arduino I would be happy if someone would point out my
 stupidity

 The chip uses a constant current setup using PWM. When you raise the
 supply voltage then the trip-current is reached sooner and recovery
 may take too long for the next PWM cycle.

 The datasheet says that the off-time is between 7 and 12
 microseconds. Your high voltage level may cause a feed-through on
 the current-limiter because of the increased rising flank of the
 current. This decreases the on-time vs off-time and the effective
 current to the motor is reduced which results in a lower torque.

 The problem may be in the physical setup, where too much noise is
 propagated. You should check the wiring and use an oscilloscope to
 check the signals for spikes etc..

 I do not have an oscilloscope

 You may have to cultivate a friend who does have one.  As a scope user
 myself since 1951, there is no other way to measure things where time vs
 voltage or amperage needs to be measured.

 and I don't think noise is the problem
 I am single and it is usually pretty quiet around here :)

 The noise being refered to is electrical, not acoustical and steppers,
 with their built in PWM modulation in a decent driver that does regulate
 current to maintain the average, is one noisy puppy electrically, which
 is the sort of noise being referred to.

 One more question though. After half an hour powered up on 12 volts, how
 does the motors temp (its gonna be hot, use an IR thermometer) compare
 with 1/2 hour powered up on 36 volts?  If its smell it hot in 10
 minutes, pull the plug, your drivers are not regulating the current
 adequately and the motor is saturated, possibly damaging the rotors
 magnetism forever  If its many degrees cooler, then the driver may be
 turning itself down to protect the driver.  If its smart enough, most of
 the lower cost drivers aren't. I have let the magic smoke out and broke
 the mirrors on quite a few allegro A-3977 based drivers. I switched to
 2M542's off fleabay about 5 or 6 years back, buying enough to switch
 them all out with one spare for the parts drawer.  Its still there, has
 not been needed.



 No IR thermometer
 I ran the motor on 12 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only barely
 warm to touch
 Then I ran the motor on 36 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only
 barely warm to touch
 The 36 volt power supply is close in the same container so I disconnected
 it and ran the motor on batteries
 Same results the motor is very weak


On Sun, 29 Mar 2015, Kyle Kerr wrote:

 You missed the part where Gene suggested you check motor temp not chip
 temp. :)

At both volages the motor was not so hot I could not hold it in my hand for 
several seconds
There has been no smell of anything hot
I only added resistors to driver to give 2.3 amps

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread andy pugh
On 29 March 2015 at 17:29, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm

 That link opens with a pay alms or go away script, so I can't see it.

Strange. It just opens as a web page here.

-- 
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If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 29 March 2015 12:01:26 andy pugh wrote:
 On 29 March 2015 at 16:41, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  You haven't said, other than you built them yourself, what your
  driver is, so we are all in the dark trying to read between the
  lines.

 He said that they were these:
 http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm

That link opens with a pay alms or go away script, so I can't see it.

When will folks learn that if they intend to share, put it on 
pastebin.ca, it Just Works(TM).

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Kirk Wallace
On 03/28/2015 12:37 PM, kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a question about the voltage to drive a stepper motor
 12 volts works but higher voltages make the motor weaker
 I am building a simple stepper driver
 A nema 23 2.7 amp stepper motor and 36 volt power supply
 The controls are hand held, forward ,reverse, stop, and speed
 I built the controls and driver using a 12 volt battery to test
 Now I completed the project and am using the 36 volt supply
 The motor runs at the same speed but it is so weak I can hold the shaft and 
 stall the motor
 This is also the same with 36 and 24 volt batteries
 With a 12 volt battery I can not stall the motor
 I am using http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm and an 
 Arduino
 I would be happy if someone would point out my stupidity

 Richard

These come to mind, and may have been mentioned by other replies.

The schematic shows a 5 Volt logic power supply. I would check to make 
sure a full 5 Volts is provided at all times and that the 5 Volt supply 
and your signal source share the same ground.

Do you have a BOB (break out board) on a parallel port or some other 
signal source. Are the signals buffered or isolated? The driver 
schematic shows 3.3k pull up resistors which will source 1.5 mA, which 
would allow using parallel port pins directly (usually have a limit of 3 
mA, often more), but might not be especially fast. If the BOB has 
isolation with opto-isolators, common optos can be quite slow.

Insure that the reference voltage (.29V) is at the proper level. The 
reference is used for half power and shutdown features which could keep 
the motor from using full power if there is a fault somewhere.

I didn't see a callout for current limit resistors for 3 amps, I assume 
the callout would be .1 Ohms. Oops, the text does talk about setting 
which resistors to use. You can try to verify your setup by measuring 
the resistance between the senseA pin and Ground, and senseB pin and 
Ground. This should be .1 Ohm, but most meters will have a hard time 
measuring this. Test by touching the meter leads together first and note 
the reading. Then test the pin and ground and the difference between the 
two values should be .1 Ohm.

If you are using software stepping signals from the parallel port, your 
PC will need good latency. Even with good latency, the signals will not 
be very fast. I usually limit stepping modes to 1/4 or 1/8 stepping.

The motor impedance is important too. Generally, more current produces 
more torque, more voltage provides higher speed. If one turns the motor 
shaft, the motor will produce a voltage and act like a generator. The 
voltage produced is dependent on the motor speed. Conversely, if one 
wants to drive the motor electrically, the corresponding voltage needs 
to be supplied for the desired speed. Of course the stepper motor speed 
is set by the stepping rate, but the voltage needs to be high enough to 
support the desired speed. Motors have different voltage per RPM 
specifications. The motor coil resistance or impedance is also related 
to V/RPM. Some less common motors will have a high V/RPM and not be 
suitable with this driver and application.



-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Kirk Wallace

On 03/29/2015 09:29 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Sunday 29 March 2015 12:01:26 andy pugh wrote:

On 29 March 2015 at 16:41, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

You haven't said, other than you built them yourself, what your
driver is, so we are all in the dark trying to read between the
lines.


He said that they were these:
http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm


That link opens with a pay alms or go away script, so I can't see it.

When will folks learn that if they intend to share, put it on
pastebin.ca, it Just Works(TM).

Cheers, Gene Heskett



The above link worked fine for me. It went right to the driver page 
without any pop-up or login:

http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm

Digikey has this link to the chip:
http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Sanken/SLA7060-62,65-67M.pdf

Alegro:
http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Sanken-Products/Sanken-ICs/Sanken-Motor-Driver-ICs/Sanken-Stepper-Motor-Unipolar-Driver-ICs/SLA7060-1-2M.aspx

The driver schematic should be attached.


--
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http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/
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Re: [Emc-users] Smart little device for zeroing

2015-03-29 Thread Scott Salrin
@Andy,

In the newer versions of LinuxCNC you can re-define the behaviour of
M6

So that's what all the talk about re-mapping is in the gmoccapy forum...
Geesh more complications :)

As for the frantic spinning of A, XYZA will all be live all of the time,
I would think in one machine configuration. At least that's what I've paid
for, I'm not into swapping wires to share a driver. My concern is that to
do rotary work I'll have to use a different processor, wrapping X about the
A axis. That's when I'm wondering if all the X moves required for tool
changes will be performed as expected, and then go back to A0 and start
running the wrapped gcode. The tool changes are manual by the way, only the
tool lengths will be automated.

Now Im reading there are issues with feed based on the diameter of the
stock, that folks have trouble with the linear feeds not being
properly transferred to degrees per whatever. My rabbit hole is getting
deeper, Alice. :)

Again, thanks Gene, and Andy for the support!



On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 5:00 AM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 29 March 2015 at 04:53, Scott Salrin scott.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
  Here is a link to the code Probotix uses:
  http://www.probotix.com/wiki/index.php/Automatic_Tool_Length_Sensor

 Their approach to tool-length sensing is to replace the M6 tool change
 command with a call to a subroutine which probes the tool length and
 then issues the tool-change command. Basically it adds moves and a
 probe before and after the M6 command.

 In the newer versions of LinuxCNC you can re-define the behaviour of
 M6, so you can in fact leave your G-code using M6 for tool-change and
 the effect will actually be to call the 100.ngc subroutine.
 (The M6 in the re-mapped subroutine is interpreted as a normal M6,
 the subroutine doesn't keep recursively calling itself)
 This would be the minimal remap described in section 5.6 here:

 http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/remap/structure.html#_making_minimal_changes_to_the_built_in_codes_including_tt_m6_tt

 However, the Probotix post-processor for Vectric is set up to use the
 O100 CALL rather than M6, so if you are using that postprocessor
 things should work without the remap process.

 As for whether the tool-change macro will lead to frantic spinning of
 the A axis rather than X movement, that rather depends on how the
 4th-axis work is configured. If it is an alternative machine config
 which has the A-axis stepper driven by the G-code X-word then I rather
 suspect that it would. But there are other ways that it might be done.

 --
 atp
 If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
 http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto


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Re: [Emc-users] Smart little device for zeroing

2015-03-29 Thread andy pugh
On 29 March 2015 at 19:27, Scott Salrin scott.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 As for the frantic spinning of A, XYZA will all be live all of the time,
 I would think in one machine configuration. At least that's what I've paid
 for, I'm not into swapping wires to share a driver.

Which stepper is driven by which G-code Axis name is something that it
easily configured in the HAL config.
For example the Z-axis motor on my lathe becomes the X-axis motor when
I put the (dual-purpose) machine into milling machine mode.

It _sounds_ like you are talking about a limitation in the CAM
software, though, so it is possible that the A/X confusion is all
invisible after the CAM stage.

-- 
atp
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Kyle Kerr
You missed the part where Gene suggested you check motor temp not chip
temp. :)

On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 7:13 AM, kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Gene Heskett wrote:

  On Saturday 28 March 2015 19:36:09 kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
  On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Bertho Stultiens wrote:
  On 03/28/2015 08:37 PM, kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
  I have a question about the voltage to drive a stepper motor
  12 volts works but higher voltages make the motor weaker
  I am building a simple stepper driver
  A nema 23 2.7 amp stepper motor and 36 volt power supply
  The controls are hand held, forward ,reverse, stop, and speed
  I built the controls and driver using a 12 volt battery to test
  Now I completed the project and am using the 36 volt supply
  The motor runs at the same speed but it is so weak I can hold the
  shaft and stall the motor This is also the same with 36 and 24 volt
  batteries
  With a 12 volt battery I can not stall the motor
  I am using http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm
  and an Arduino I would be happy if someone would point out my
  stupidity
 
  The chip uses a constant current setup using PWM. When you raise the
  supply voltage then the trip-current is reached sooner and recovery
  may take too long for the next PWM cycle.
 
  The datasheet says that the off-time is between 7 and 12
  microseconds. Your high voltage level may cause a feed-through on
  the current-limiter because of the increased rising flank of the
  current. This decreases the on-time vs off-time and the effective
  current to the motor is reduced which results in a lower torque.
 
  The problem may be in the physical setup, where too much noise is
  propagated. You should check the wiring and use an oscilloscope to
  check the signals for spikes etc..
 
  I do not have an oscilloscope
 
  You may have to cultivate a friend who does have one.  As a scope user
  myself since 1951, there is no other way to measure things where time vs
  voltage or amperage needs to be measured.
 
  and I don't think noise is the problem
  I am single and it is usually pretty quiet around here :)
 
  The noise being refered to is electrical, not acoustical and steppers,
  with their built in PWM modulation in a decent driver that does regulate
  current to maintain the average, is one noisy puppy electrically, which
  is the sort of noise being referred to.
 
  One more question though. After half an hour powered up on 12 volts, how
  does the motors temp (its gonna be hot, use an IR thermometer) compare
  with 1/2 hour powered up on 36 volts?  If its smell it hot in 10
  minutes, pull the plug, your drivers are not regulating the current
  adequately and the motor is saturated, possibly damaging the rotors
  magnetism forever  If its many degrees cooler, then the driver may be
  turning itself down to protect the driver.  If its smart enough, most of
  the lower cost drivers aren't. I have let the magic smoke out and broke
  the mirrors on quite a few allegro A-3977 based drivers. I switched to
  2M542's off fleabay about 5 or 6 years back, buying enough to switch
  them all out with one spare for the parts drawer.  Its still there, has
  not been needed.
 


 No IR thermometer
 I ran the motor on 12 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only barely
 warm to touch
 Then I ran the motor on 36 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only
 barely warm to touch
 The 36 volt power supply is close in the same container so I disconnected
 it and ran the motor on batteries
 Same results the motor is very weak


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Re: [Emc-users] Not ACME, ballscrews! Re: Anyone have leftovers from a 9x20 CNC conversion?

2015-03-29 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 29 March 2015 02:32:48 Karlsson  Wang wrote:
 I have a left over ball screw but do not know the price for these, It
 is around 2.5 metres long and I bought it used for below $100

Got a pix of that? I may have a home for it, as z drive on a 100+ yo 
Porter lathe that I have looked at its rusty hulk sitting out in the 
weather a couple times right here in town.

This might make me at least make an offer for it.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread kqt4at5v
On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Gene Heskett wrote:

 On Saturday 28 March 2015 19:36:09 kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Bertho Stultiens wrote:
 On 03/28/2015 08:37 PM, kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a question about the voltage to drive a stepper motor
 12 volts works but higher voltages make the motor weaker
 I am building a simple stepper driver
 A nema 23 2.7 amp stepper motor and 36 volt power supply
 The controls are hand held, forward ,reverse, stop, and speed
 I built the controls and driver using a 12 volt battery to test
 Now I completed the project and am using the 36 volt supply
 The motor runs at the same speed but it is so weak I can hold the
 shaft and stall the motor This is also the same with 36 and 24 volt
 batteries
 With a 12 volt battery I can not stall the motor
 I am using http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm
 and an Arduino I would be happy if someone would point out my
 stupidity

 The chip uses a constant current setup using PWM. When you raise the
 supply voltage then the trip-current is reached sooner and recovery
 may take too long for the next PWM cycle.

 The datasheet says that the off-time is between 7 and 12
 microseconds. Your high voltage level may cause a feed-through on
 the current-limiter because of the increased rising flank of the
 current. This decreases the on-time vs off-time and the effective
 current to the motor is reduced which results in a lower torque.

 The problem may be in the physical setup, where too much noise is
 propagated. You should check the wiring and use an oscilloscope to
 check the signals for spikes etc..

 I do not have an oscilloscope

 You may have to cultivate a friend who does have one.  As a scope user
 myself since 1951, there is no other way to measure things where time vs
 voltage or amperage needs to be measured.

 and I don't think noise is the problem
 I am single and it is usually pretty quiet around here :)

 The noise being refered to is electrical, not acoustical and steppers,
 with their built in PWM modulation in a decent driver that does regulate
 current to maintain the average, is one noisy puppy electrically, which
 is the sort of noise being referred to.

 One more question though. After half an hour powered up on 12 volts, how
 does the motors temp (its gonna be hot, use an IR thermometer) compare
 with 1/2 hour powered up on 36 volts?  If its smell it hot in 10
 minutes, pull the plug, your drivers are not regulating the current
 adequately and the motor is saturated, possibly damaging the rotors
 magnetism forever  If its many degrees cooler, then the driver may be
 turning itself down to protect the driver.  If its smart enough, most of
 the lower cost drivers aren't. I have let the magic smoke out and broke
 the mirrors on quite a few allegro A-3977 based drivers. I switched to
 2M542's off fleabay about 5 or 6 years back, buying enough to switch
 them all out with one spare for the parts drawer.  Its still there, has
 not been needed.



No IR thermometer
I ran the motor on 12 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only barely warm 
to touch
Then I ran the motor on 36 volts for about 1 hour and the chip was only barely 
warm to touch
The 36 volt power supply is close in the same container so I disconnected it 
and ran the motor on batteries
Same results the motor is very weak

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Re: [Emc-users] Smart little device for zeroing

2015-03-29 Thread Marcus Bowman

On 29 Mar 2015, at 04:53, Scott Salrin wrote:

   Thanks again for the words of encouragement the other day, guys. I've
 been thinking, which has always been dangerous for me. I need to bounce my
 thoughts off of some smart people, to set me straight.
 
 First let be beg forgiveness if this is inappropriate, or if I pull this
 thread off topic... It seemed dead anyway.
 
 As I mentioned, I have not received the machine yet, so all of this is
 theory at this point. The router is a Probotix Nebula, and will come ready
 to make chips out of the crate, but I have a lot to learn in preparation
 and trying to figure it out on my own is starting to hurt. I am having a
 tool length switch installed and it will come configured with a tool
 changing routine. The routine is called by a o100 command. I am also having
 a 4th axis rotary installed.
 
 This is where I am confusing myself. I haven't purchased the cam yet, but
 do believe it will be vectric aspire. This means the the rotary work will
 have to be wrapped around I believe the x axis, in this case, at the post
 processor.

I use Vectric VCarve Pro, which is of the same family as the more capable 
Aspire. I have done some wrapped rotary axis engraving, and I'm not entirely 
sure you have the right story here. I think (but am not 100% certain) that 
Aspire expects a 4th axis to be the rotary axis (i.e. not cable-swapping to 
temporarily substitute one of the other axes). Vectric have a very active and 
well-managed Forum for support. Questions are usually answered quickly and 
helpfully, so I suggest you ask this question directly, on the Forum.

If my own impression is wrong, it is not difficult to output G code fro Aspire, 
then edit it using a simple diameter/length conversion factor to cause the G 
code commends for one axis (say X) to act s wrapped A axis code to control your 
4th rotary axis. I've done that quite successfully in the past.

I also suggest you specifically ask for a LinuxCNC post-processor whcih can 
cope with a wrapped 4th axis. Vectric originally didn't have a LinuxCNC 
post-processor at all, but wrote one for me when I requested it. I did have a 
conversation with them about a LinuxCNC post-processor which would output the 
correct A axis code when using their wrapped-axis gadget. They said they were 
willing, but, for simple logistical reasons (coder was away in the USA at the 
time) they didn't get around to it in time, and I did my own thing with a 
conversion factor. It would be worth returning to that, if they haven't already 
done it.

Marcus

 
 I also want to use the makers guide featured in the attached
 video, foe most of my work, and will need to pull off all the custom
 buttons and code to make that happen.
 
 Am I correct in thinking that all the coding I'll need to do will be in
 absolute co-ordinates, and not affected by the gcode that is wrapped around
 the x axis. Like if I set the rotary to be say a G55 work co-ordinate, and
 run a wrapped gcode file that has tool changes in it, when a tool change
 routine is called the machine will go to the tool change position, wait for
 me, do the routine and go back to G55 and start running the wrapped code
 again?
 
 Or, is it going to sit there after the new tool length offset and spin the
 A axis instead of travelling back the the work offset origin?
 
 Here is a link to the code Probotix uses:
 http://www.probotix.com/wiki/index.php/Automatic_Tool_Length_Sensor
 
 I apologize for all the background, but don't know enough to know how much
 info you might need, or if you get these newbie questions all the time.
 
 I do appreciate any time taken to help,
 
 Scott
 
 On Fri, Mar 27, 2015 at 4:55 PM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 
 On Friday 27 March 2015 17:42:14 andy pugh wrote:
 On 27 March 2015 at 21:35, Scott Salrin scott.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
 I just need to find a way to make it work in linuxcnc.
 
 It isn't magic. And you won't need any C.
 
 Yeah, if I can write the code to do that so can he.
 I do it in pieces, like I think theres a holefinder.ngc on my web page
 that can be edited to work with that jig.
 
 Probably a poor tutorial, but it works well enough for drilling pcb holes
 halfway thru the board, turning the board over and drilling it half way
 from the other side with the holes meeting in the middle w/o a visible
 offset.
 
 Applied offsets are TBD by the user though.  Here its repeatable to under
 a thou variation.
 
 Cheers, Gene Heskett
 --
 There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
 -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
 Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
 
 
 --
 Dive into the World of Parallel Programming The Go Parallel Website,
 sponsored
 by Intel and developed in partnership with Slashdot Media, is your hub for
 all
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 to
 

Re: [Emc-users] ot: voltage and steppers

2015-03-29 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 29 March 2015 13:25:09 andy pugh wrote:
 On 29 March 2015 at 17:29, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  http://piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/SLAm/SLAm_bld.htm
 
  That link opens with a pay alms or go away script, so I can't see
  it.

 Strange. It just opens as a web page here.

And this time it worked for me too, Andy.  I tried it 4 times earlier 
today, never got thru.

Two things I note, first being that its unipolar which I have zero 
experience with, my stuff is 100% bipolar, and 2: there are no timing 
specs anyplace on the page, although I expect those can be had from the 
Allegro site.  Someone else opined that the 5 volt supply, which does 
the pullups, might not be up to snuff.  That, the OP can check with a 
std digital meter.  To get much deeper than that will I expect, require 
a decent scope and a trained eye to read it.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene

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Re: [Emc-users] Cleaning machinery

2015-03-29 Thread richshoop


- Original Message -

From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net 
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 10:53:13 PM 
Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 80 

Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to 
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest... 


Today's Topics: 

1. Re: Cleaning machinery (andy pugh) 
2. Re: Cleaning machinery (Dave Cole) 
3. Re-purpose or move along? (Andy Evans) 
4. Re: Smart little device for zeroing (Scott Salrin) 
5. Re: Custom EMC installation? (Peter C. Wallace) 
6. Not ACME, ballscrews! Re: Anyone have leftovers from a 9x20 
CNC conversion? (Gregg Eshelman) 
Thank you for the help. I don't want to take a chance on ruining a very nice, 
accurate, tight, spanish machine tool. 
- 

Messa at alllge: 1 
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2015 00:47:35 + 
From: andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Cleaning machinery 
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) 
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
Message-ID: 
can1+yzvnoctbysim7ewb22b7t-o5sxqyjqkttrx4sbr80zf...@mail.gmail.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 

On 29 March 2015 at 00:42, richsh...@comcast.net wrote: 
 Any suggestions on a degrease process? 

I normally use what we call White Spirit but it sounds like you tried that. 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit 

-- 
atp 
If you can't fix it, you don't own it. 
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto 



-- 

Message: 2 
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 21:22:56 -0500 
From: Dave Cole linuxcncro...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Cleaning machinery 
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
Message-ID: 55176200.9050...@gmail.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed 

Scrape off all you can of the heavy stuff. 

http://www.ehow.com/way_5434198_homemade-engine-degreaser.html 

The kerosene mix works very well on heavy grease. Spray it on, let it 
sit, brush and wipe it off, repeat. Dawn dishwashing soap works well 
with kerosense. Buy big bottles of it from Sam's/Costco etc. It works 
best when things are warm of course. Aim a space heater at the 
machine for a while and get it up to 80-90 degrees then spray it on and 
things will go much faster. 
I've used that solution for years to clean up dirty engines. A cheap 
pump up tank sprayer such as used for weeds etc works fine. 

Dave 

On 3/28/2015 7:42 PM, richsh...@comcast.net wrote: 
 I just bought a 1975 vintage Anayak FV2 mill, imported to the US by DoAll. It 
 has so much grease, muck, and yuck on it, I need to clean it. So far I've 
 tried citrus based solvent, paint thinner, automotive, parts cleaner.. 
 Applying it via green and brown scotch brite pads. Any suggestions on a 
 degrease process? 
 
 - Original Message - 
 
 From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net 
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
 Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 2:44:22 PM 
 Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 78 
 
 Send Emc-users mailing list submissions to 
 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit 
 https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users 
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 
 emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net 
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at 
 emc-users-ow...@lists.sourceforge.net 
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
 than Re: Contents of Emc-users digest... 
 
 
 Today's Topics: 
 
 1. Re: Possible New Lathe (richsh...@comcast.net) 
 2. ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com) 
 3. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (Dave Cole) 
 4. Re: ot: voltage and steppers (kqt4a...@gmail.com) 
 5. 2.6.4 to 2.6.7 update without a network connection? 
 (Gregg Eshelman) 
 
 
 -- 
 
 Message: 1 
 Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 15:24:42 + (UTC) 
 From: richsh...@comcast.net 
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Possible New Lathe 
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
 Message-ID: 
 1991675046.16595850.1427556282912.javamail.zim...@comcast.net 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 
 
 Boris? Obviously, an oversize Van Norman vertical mill, I'd say 7,000 lbs or 
 so. 
 
 - Original Message - 
 
 From: emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net 
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
 Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 11:45:16 PM 
 Subject: Emc-users Digest, Vol 107, Issue 76 
 
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 emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
 
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