Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andrew beck]

hey peter

I have just been looking at the manual for the 8i20 and it says 2200w 400v
motor power

Is that correct?  or is this for the dc power on the output of the drive
and maybe it takes 230v ac three phase line power in?

slightly confusing.

here in New Zealand all three phase power is 400v so it would be good for
have a drive that I can just plug in without using other transformers etc
regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM Peter C. Wallace  wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020, andrew beck wrote:
>
> > Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 11:01:44 +1200
> > From: andrew beck 
> > Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"
> > 
> > To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"  >
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control
> >
> > hey gene
> >yes it weighs 15 kg
> >
> >still thinking it would be good to use a 8i20 initial feedback is not
> >sounding too good:)
> >
> >regards
> >
> >Andrew
>
>
> A 8I20 drive (or STMBL) would run that (6.5A cont is say 20 A peak) but
> only at
> about 1/2 speed because the 8I20 (and the STMBL) are 230V drives, that
> really
> needs a 460V drive.
>
>
> Peter Wallace
> Mesa Electronics
>
>
>
> ___
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>

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Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 7:33 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 19:17:14 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > You are going to have to post a photo.  First off, I hope you are
> > printing these pulleys flat,  With rotational axis vertical.  I hate
> > to ask but with no photos we don't even know this.
> >
> > Assuming you are, the teeth are called "walls" and only if bubbles are
> > in the plastic would you get voids.Print slower or maybe cooler.
> > The outer wall layers should run at maybe 30 mm / second.
> >
> > Here is a cell-phone shot of a 30T GT2 profile pulley that has been
> > sitting around on my desk for a couple weeks.  It is dirty and the
> > flanges need to be cleaned up with a small nail file. The walls
> > are made in the direction of motion and are smooth enough.  It is a
> > 3mm tooth pitch by 9mm wide.I think this one was printed on "draft
> > mode" with 0.2mm layer height.   This is from an Anet A6 printer with
> > default settings in Cura. A steel hub goes in the 20mm hole.  THe gear
> > was downloaded from SPD/SI website than modified in Fusion 360
> >
> > [image: IMG_0542.jpg]
> Thats a heck of a lot nicer looking, and 10x smoother than what I have in
> my hand from this afternoons run.  That said, an XL belt fits it nicely.
> So this one is usable for a test fit mock up except the slot for the nut
> is about a 20% infill.  One might be able to epoxy it to the motor shaft
> with JBWeld. But despite 2mm walls around the hub, I can feel the
> elasticity and that bothers me.  And while I can sort of see the solid
> walls around the nut pocket, I have serious doubts of ever getting a
> decent grip because it will open up from the outward pressure the nut
> would exert.
>

Yes, That is why I make pulleys with a 20 or 24 mm hole.  They get epoxied
to a steel hub.   Steel hubs are easy to make on a lathe by hand.  I use
two set scres at 90 degrees.  I could epoxy to the motor shaft but then I
might want to use the motor later with a different pulley.

One thing that does work for a while,  If the motor has a "D" shaft or a
keyway you can print a D or keyway in the pulley.  D-holes don't spin but
the loose concentric over time.

There is one more technique I want to try.  Brass thread inserts.  You heat
these on a solder iron tht press them into a hole. When the plastic cools
they stick
amazon.com/Uxcell-a16041800ux0824-Knurled-Thread


If you have access to the backside you can press-fit normal hex nuts and
embed them into the plastic but these knured nuts press in from the front
side and might work for gears.   That would be quicker them making a steel
hub.  Kind of a compromise.   6 cents each.

Finally if you print threads, the wall and skin thrickness setting applies
to the  plastic around all holes, threaded of not

Use "preview" in Cura to see exactly how each layer will stack up



> So I'll probably use this as the motor pulley while I am mocking up the
> real drive, the next stage being a hubless, larger model, which will be
> epoxied to a smallish possibly herringboned gear, driving a much higher
> tooth count matching gear on the worm shaft. The herringbone may get
> lost in the translation to metal for the final parts though.
>
> I set up a "raft" for this one, and made it 15mm bigger than the hub, and
> it was 30 minutes just laying the raft. 4 layers.  Bed cold, I wiggled
> the putty knife under it, popped it off, then the raft separated nicely
> just like cura said it would. I upped the speed to 60mm/sec but I don't
> think it ever moved that fast. But I think a 5mm skirt would be ok and
> 20 minutes faster.
>
> Now I need to make some parallels so I can lay it down on the mill table
> without taking out all the lock levers etc, and drill and tap for the
> axle the intermediate stuff will turn on.  Then make the shaft out of
> some .500" A2, figuring on some 8mm ID bearings if torrington makes
> their needle cartridges that small, I haven't checked yet.  Need the
> smallest to make room for the relay gear to the bigger gear on the worm
> shaft.
>
> I got the motor adapter yesterday, a 34 to a 23, and I'll need to get
> another alu pulley with an 8mm bore to drive the Sheldons Z with the
> other motor.  Same tooth count, should move the Sheldon ok and 60 db
> quieter that the 1600 oz/in doing it now.  If I ever get a knee mill, it
> would make a good knee motor.  Better yet, somebody should make me an
> offer for it. 14mm shaft.
>
> Thanks Chris.
>
> > On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 1:37 PM Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
> > > On Wednesday 03 June 2020 14:54:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > The pulley teeth are very low density, mostly air with a 

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 19:17:14 Chris Albertson wrote:

> You are going to have to post a photo.  First off, I hope you are
> printing these pulleys flat,  With rotational axis vertical.  I hate
> to ask but with no photos we don't even know this.
>
> Assuming you are, the teeth are called "walls" and only if bubbles are
> in the plastic would you get voids.Print slower or maybe cooler. 
> The outer wall layers should run at maybe 30 mm / second.
>
> Here is a cell-phone shot of a 30T GT2 profile pulley that has been
> sitting around on my desk for a couple weeks.  It is dirty and the
> flanges need to be cleaned up with a small nail file. The walls
> are made in the direction of motion and are smooth enough.  It is a
> 3mm tooth pitch by 9mm wide.I think this one was printed on "draft
> mode" with 0.2mm layer height.   This is from an Anet A6 printer with
> default settings in Cura. A steel hub goes in the 20mm hole.  THe gear
> was downloaded from SPD/SI website than modified in Fusion 360
>
> [image: IMG_0542.jpg]
Thats a heck of a lot nicer looking, and 10x smoother than what I have in 
my hand from this afternoons run.  That said, an XL belt fits it nicely.  
So this one is usable for a test fit mock up except the slot for the nut 
is about a 20% infill.  One might be able to epoxy it to the motor shaft 
with JBWeld. But despite 2mm walls around the hub, I can feel the 
elasticity and that bothers me.  And while I can sort of see the solid 
walls around the nut pocket, I have serious doubts of ever getting a 
decent grip because it will open up from the outward pressure the nut 
would exert.

So I'll probably use this as the motor pulley while I am mocking up the 
real drive, the next stage being a hubless, larger model, which will be 
epoxied to a smallish possibly herringboned gear, driving a much higher 
tooth count matching gear on the worm shaft. The herringbone may get 
lost in the translation to metal for the final parts though.

I set up a "raft" for this one, and made it 15mm bigger than the hub, and 
it was 30 minutes just laying the raft. 4 layers.  Bed cold, I wiggled 
the putty knife under it, popped it off, then the raft separated nicely 
just like cura said it would. I upped the speed to 60mm/sec but I don't 
think it ever moved that fast. But I think a 5mm skirt would be ok and 
20 minutes faster.

Now I need to make some parallels so I can lay it down on the mill table 
without taking out all the lock levers etc, and drill and tap for the 
axle the intermediate stuff will turn on.  Then make the shaft out of 
some .500" A2, figuring on some 8mm ID bearings if torrington makes 
their needle cartridges that small, I haven't checked yet.  Need the 
smallest to make room for the relay gear to the bigger gear on the worm 
shaft.

I got the motor adapter yesterday, a 34 to a 23, and I'll need to get 
another alu pulley with an 8mm bore to drive the Sheldons Z with the 
other motor.  Same tooth count, should move the Sheldon ok and 60 db 
quieter that the 1600 oz/in doing it now.  If I ever get a knee mill, it 
would make a good knee motor.  Better yet, somebody should make me an 
offer for it. 14mm shaft.

Thanks Chris.

> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 1:37 PM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Wednesday 03 June 2020 14:54:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
> >
> >
> > The pulley teeth are very low density, mostly air with a filament
> > bridge at a 45 degree angle.  How do solidify the teeth? What I'm
> > getting would cut up an XL belt in an hours work, its that sharp.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[Peter C. Wallace]

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020, andrew beck wrote:


Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 11:01:44 +1200
From: andrew beck 
Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"

To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)" 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

hey gene
yes it weighs 15 kg

still thinking it would be good to use a 8i20 initial feedback is not
sounding too good:)

regards

Andrew



A 8I20 drive (or STMBL) would run that (6.5A cont is say 20 A peak) but only at 
about 1/2 speed because the 8I20 (and the STMBL) are 230V drives, that really 
needs a 460V drive.



Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics



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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Bruce Layne]

The resins seem to be UV cured polyurethane or similar.  Polyurethanes
have a wide range of physical properties.  There are "ABS-like" resins
that are very structural.  I believe hockey pucks are made of
polyurethane.  The resin printed parts are dense and impact resistant. 
One good choice for a structural resin is Siraya Blu, available in
translucent light blue or clear.  Most of the resins can be mixed, even
between different companies, to fine tune the physical properties.  As
an example, I printed some little bars that are 5mm X 30mm X 60mm from a
generic gray resin that isn't considered to be one of the structural
resins.  I'd need some tools to damage it.  If I tried to break it with
my hands, I'd only hurt myself.

I'd been waiting for resin printers to decrease in price and for the
parts to be structural rather than "looks like" prototypes and fragile
miniature figurines.  It happened while I wasn't watching and was a
pleasant surprise.  We're suddenly seeing structural parts from resin
printers appearing everywhere.  Here's another advantage over FDM parts
- resin printed parts are solid so they can be used to make fittings and
manifolds for compressed air or liquids.

The flexible resin is very flexible but it has a slow return to its
original shape.  I have an application that needs a fast rebound, so
I'll be using the FDM printers to print those parts from TPU filament.

There are plenty of YouTube MSLA videos, and the resins are for sale on
Amazon if you'd like to read some customer reviews.

My only down side to resin printing is washing the uncured resin from
the parts, rinsing them and UV post curing the parts.  It's a bit of a
hassle but worth it if you want strong parts printed at high resolution.





On 6/3/20 6:48 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 1:05 PM Bruce Layne 
> wrote:
>
>> You might consider a resin printer for your high precision smaller
>> parts.  The MSLA machines are very inexpensive... no where near FormLabs
>> prices.
>
> I didn't know these had dropped in price so far.
>
> What resin choices are available for these MSLA printers?  What are the
> mechanical properties of the resins?   Maybe there is a good article on
> this?  One advantage of Formlabs is resin selection.  But maybe these same
> resins work in the low cost MSLA printer?
>
> Things I'd like to print are would need a tough semi-compliant plastic  I'm
> experimenting with robot gripper.  One is an anthropomorphic hand that was
> actually designed as a prosthetic for amputees.
> https://openbionicslabs.com/shop/brunel-hand The other is a pure robot
> design.  Both are Open Source and all the CAD files are available.
> Something like this
> https://www.eng.yale.edu/grablab/openhand/model_q.html#about
> 
>


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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andrew beck]

hey gene
yes it weighs 15 kg

still thinking it would be good to use a 8i20 initial feedback is not
sounding too good:)

regards

Andrew


On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:53 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 18:28:14 andrew beck wrote:
>
> > looks like I need to upload a link to google drive for the photo as
> > the email list cannot host photos apparently.
> >
> > here is the photo of the motor nameplate
> >
> > https://photos.app.goo.gl/V2gCuLxsv9GtstPY6
> >
> Thats pretty serious motor, as we used to say on cow barn radio where
> some of us had steerable antennas back in the '70's, lemme turn the
> house around.  You could turn a good sized house with that.
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:16 AM andrew beck 
> >
> > wrote:
> > > hey andy
> > >
> > > bit of a pity on the stumble drives
> > >
> > > I have the option to get a almost unused cnc mill identical to my
> > > current machine.  and just thinking if I want to go down that path.
> > > the new one has a 4th axis already there.  it had bad electrical
> > > problems from day one almost.  so is in very good shape.  and the
> > > price is right.  besides who doesn't want 2 cnc mills:)
> > >
> > > ballscrews are 16 mm pitch on x and y axis
> > >
> > > last time I bought all new chinese drives and motors and just gutted
> > > everything.  that works ok but costs 1700 usd for 3 axis and also
> > > the tuning leaves something to be desired in my opinion.  the servo
> > > drives don't have a PID controller it is just a PIV and I am having
> > > to accept slightly lower performance than I would like.  it is not
> > > bad but definitely could be better.
> > >
> > > anyway just looking into options and the mesa 8i20 came up.  would
> > > love to hear how much power they can handle when maxed out.I
> > > will upload a photo of the name plate from my motor I want to
> > > control
> > >
> > >  It is possible I can use the original heidenhain inverters(servo
> > > drive) but that may be blown up.  I will try this first If I buy the
> > > machine though
> > >
> > > regards
> > >
> > > Andrew
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:00 AM andy pugh  wrote:
> > >> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 22:46, andrew beck 
> > >>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> > the max power the servo drive can control apparently is 2200w  so
> > >> > the
> > >>
> > >> servo
> > >>
> > >> > drive is slightly under powered.
> > >>
> > >> There is a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24LftGNp4MI
> > >> of an STMBL running at 5.8kVA.
> > >>
> > >> But there are many caveats to this:
> > >> 1) You can't get one
> > >> 2) If you get most of one, there are no power drivers.
> > >> 3) They need configuring, a whole other HAL.
> > >>
> > >> 1 and 2 might improve. They might even improve soon-ish. (I am not
> > >> privy to
> > >> the machinations of the developers)
> > >>
> > >> STMBL is the perfect LinuxCNC retrofit drive, and might have Taken
> > >> Over The
> > >> World had the power driver not been discontinued. (Just at the
> > >> point where the developers had enough drives for _their_ needs.)
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> atp
> > >> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> > >> designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils
> > >> and lunatics." — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> > >>
> > >> ___
> > >> Emc-users mailing list
> > >> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > >> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andy pugh]

On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 23:53, Gene Heskett  wrote:

Thats pretty serious motor, as we used to say on cow barn radio where
> some of us had steerable antennas back in the '70's, lemme turn the
> house around.  You could turn a good sized house with that.


You would need gearing, it's only 13Nm. I have a 140Nm servo.

I probably need to find a use for it :-)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 18:28:14 andrew beck wrote:

> looks like I need to upload a link to google drive for the photo as
> the email list cannot host photos apparently.
>
> here is the photo of the motor nameplate
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/V2gCuLxsv9GtstPY6
>
Thats pretty serious motor, as we used to say on cow barn radio where 
some of us had steerable antennas back in the '70's, lemme turn the 
house around.  You could turn a good sized house with that.
>
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:16 AM andrew beck 
>
> wrote:
> > hey andy
> >
> > bit of a pity on the stumble drives
> >
> > I have the option to get a almost unused cnc mill identical to my
> > current machine.  and just thinking if I want to go down that path. 
> > the new one has a 4th axis already there.  it had bad electrical
> > problems from day one almost.  so is in very good shape.  and the
> > price is right.  besides who doesn't want 2 cnc mills:)
> >
> > ballscrews are 16 mm pitch on x and y axis
> >
> > last time I bought all new chinese drives and motors and just gutted
> > everything.  that works ok but costs 1700 usd for 3 axis and also
> > the tuning leaves something to be desired in my opinion.  the servo
> > drives don't have a PID controller it is just a PIV and I am having
> > to accept slightly lower performance than I would like.  it is not
> > bad but definitely could be better.
> >
> > anyway just looking into options and the mesa 8i20 came up.  would
> > love to hear how much power they can handle when maxed out.I
> > will upload a photo of the name plate from my motor I want to
> > control
> >
> >  It is possible I can use the original heidenhain inverters(servo
> > drive) but that may be blown up.  I will try this first If I buy the
> > machine though
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:00 AM andy pugh  wrote:
> >> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 22:46, andrew beck 
> >>
> >> wrote:
> >> > the max power the servo drive can control apparently is 2200w  so
> >> > the
> >>
> >> servo
> >>
> >> > drive is slightly under powered.
> >>
> >> There is a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24LftGNp4MI
> >> of an STMBL running at 5.8kVA.
> >>
> >> But there are many caveats to this:
> >> 1) You can't get one
> >> 2) If you get most of one, there are no power drivers.
> >> 3) They need configuring, a whole other HAL.
> >>
> >> 1 and 2 might improve. They might even improve soon-ish. (I am not
> >> privy to
> >> the machinations of the developers)
> >>
> >> STMBL is the perfect LinuxCNC retrofit drive, and might have Taken
> >> Over The
> >> World had the power driver not been discontinued. (Just at the
> >> point where the developers had enough drives for _their_ needs.)
> >>
> >> --
> >> atp
> >> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> >> designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils
> >> and lunatics." — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> >>
> >> ___
> >> Emc-users mailing list
> >> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> >> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Chris Albertson]

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 1:05 PM Bruce Layne 
wrote:

> You might consider a resin printer for your high precision smaller
> parts.  The MSLA machines are very inexpensive... no where near FormLabs
> prices.


I didn't know these had dropped in price so far.

What resin choices are available for these MSLA printers?  What are the
mechanical properties of the resins?   Maybe there is a good article on
this?  One advantage of Formlabs is resin selection.  But maybe these same
resins work in the low cost MSLA printer?

Things I'd like to print are would need a tough semi-compliant plastic  I'm
experimenting with robot gripper.  One is an anthropomorphic hand that was
actually designed as a prosthetic for amputees.
https://openbionicslabs.com/shop/brunel-hand The other is a pure robot
design.  Both are Open Source and all the CAD files are available.
Something like this
https://www.eng.yale.edu/grablab/openhand/model_q.html#about


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andrew beck]

looks like I need to upload a link to google drive for the photo as the
email list cannot host photos apparently.

here is the photo of the motor nameplate

https://photos.app.goo.gl/V2gCuLxsv9GtstPY6



regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:16 AM andrew beck 
wrote:

> hey andy
>
> bit of a pity on the stumble drives
>
> I have the option to get a almost unused cnc mill identical to my current
> machine.  and just thinking if I want to go down that path.  the new one
> has a 4th axis already there.  it had bad electrical problems from day one
> almost.  so is in very good shape.  and the price is right.  besides who
> doesn't want 2 cnc mills:)
>
> ballscrews are 16 mm pitch on x and y axis
>
> last time I bought all new chinese drives and motors and just gutted
> everything.  that works ok but costs 1700 usd for 3 axis and also the
> tuning leaves something to be desired in my opinion.  the servo drives
> don't have a PID controller it is just a PIV and I am having to accept
> slightly lower performance than I would like.  it is not bad but definitely
> could be better.
>
> anyway just looking into options and the mesa 8i20 came up.  would love to
> hear how much power they can handle when maxed out.I will upload a
> photo of the name plate from my motor I want to control
>
>  It is possible I can use the original heidenhain inverters(servo drive)
> but that may be blown up.  I will try this first If I buy the machine though
>
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:00 AM andy pugh  wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 22:46, andrew beck 
>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > the max power the servo drive can control apparently is 2200w  so the
>> servo
>> > drive is slightly under powered.
>>
>>
>> There is a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24LftGNp4MI of an
>> STMBL running at 5.8kVA.
>>
>> But there are many caveats to this:
>> 1) You can't get one
>> 2) If you get most of one, there are no power drivers.
>> 3) They need configuring, a whole other HAL.
>>
>> 1 and 2 might improve. They might even improve soon-ish. (I am not privy
>> to
>> the machinations of the developers)
>>
>> STMBL is the perfect LinuxCNC retrofit drive, and might have Taken Over
>> The
>> World had the power driver not been discontinued. (Just at the point where
>> the developers had enough drives for _their_ needs.)
>>
>> --
>> atp
>> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
>> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
>> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>>
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>
>

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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andrew beck]

hey andy

bit of a pity on the stumble drives

I have the option to get a almost unused cnc mill identical to my current
machine.  and just thinking if I want to go down that path.  the new one
has a 4th axis already there.  it had bad electrical problems from day one
almost.  so is in very good shape.  and the price is right.  besides who
doesn't want 2 cnc mills:)

ballscrews are 16 mm pitch on x and y axis

last time I bought all new chinese drives and motors and just gutted
everything.  that works ok but costs 1700 usd for 3 axis and also the
tuning leaves something to be desired in my opinion.  the servo drives
don't have a PID controller it is just a PIV and I am having to accept
slightly lower performance than I would like.  it is not bad but definitely
could be better.

anyway just looking into options and the mesa 8i20 came up.  would love to
hear how much power they can handle when maxed out.I will upload a
photo of the name plate from my motor I want to control

 It is possible I can use the original heidenhain inverters(servo drive)
but that may be blown up.  I will try this first If I buy the machine though

regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 10:00 AM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 22:46, andrew beck  wrote:
>
> >
> > the max power the servo drive can control apparently is 2200w  so the
> servo
> > drive is slightly under powered.
>
>
> There is a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24LftGNp4MI of an
> STMBL running at 5.8kVA.
>
> But there are many caveats to this:
> 1) You can't get one
> 2) If you get most of one, there are no power drivers.
> 3) They need configuring, a whole other HAL.
>
> 1 and 2 might improve. They might even improve soon-ish. (I am not privy to
> the machinations of the developers)
>
> STMBL is the perfect LinuxCNC retrofit drive, and might have Taken Over The
> World had the power driver not been discontinued. (Just at the point where
> the developers had enough drives for _their_ needs.)
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

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Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andy pugh]

On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 22:46, andrew beck  wrote:

>
> the max power the servo drive can control apparently is 2200w  so the servo
> drive is slightly under powered.


There is a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24LftGNp4MI of an
STMBL running at 5.8kVA.

But there are many caveats to this:
1) You can't get one
2) If you get most of one, there are no power drivers.
3) They need configuring, a whole other HAL.

1 and 2 might improve. They might even improve soon-ish. (I am not privy to
the machinations of the developers)

STMBL is the perfect LinuxCNC retrofit drive, and might have Taken Over The
World had the power driver not been discontinued. (Just at the point where
the developers had enough drives for _their_ needs.)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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[Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

[andrew beck]

Hey guys

I have been looking at the mesa 8i20 servo drives and thinking about using
one to control a 3.45 kw heidenhain motor I have here

the max power the servo drive can control apparently is 2200w  so the servo
drive is slightly under powered.

http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product_id=149

just wondering who has used them now.

I am possibly getting another 5 ton  big cnc mill and thinking of using the
mesa 8i20 for the servo drives.   If I can't find a way to retrofit into
the original heidenhain inverter (I have no idea if it still goes)

any thoughts would be appreciated.  also it would be nice to know if they
can supply more power if I build a nice heat sink for them

regards

Andrew

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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Sebastian Kuzminsky]

On 6/3/20 10:19 AM, Thomas J Powderly wrote:

Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?


I'm not Gene, but I'm using LinuxCNC to control a cheapo home-built 3d 
printer.


I'm using a Mesa card wired to a RAMPS board, plus a Teensy for ADC (to 
sense thermistor temperatures).


It's a little ridiculous, but it does make parts.


--
Sebastian Kuzminsky


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

 I doubt Stratasys is able to do anything with their patent on a box. There are 
several FDM printers on the market that are pretty much fully enclosed, have 
been for quite a while.

On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 7:26:41 AM MDT, Bruce Layne 
 wrote:  

On 6/3/20 2:25 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:

> That sounds like a heated enclosure might be worthwhile, keeping it warm 
> enough to stress relieve?
That completely obvious idea is locked up in a patent held by Stratasys,
that should have already expired, but their lawyers used the trick
developed by pharmaceutical company lawyers to extend the life of a patent.  
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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

Should be a setting somewhere to control how tightly the part is attached to 
the raft. Rafts should be pretty easy to peel off by hand. Ideally, once you 
have the right settings, a raft shouldn't be needed if there's enough flat 
surface in contact with the bed.

On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 5:46:50 AM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote: 
In this example, the base hub seems fairly solid, I don't have a tool 
capable of cutting the nut pocket clear as it has a thin film of 
adhesion layer across the opening that will need cut away before a nut 
can be inserted.  
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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 14:54:31 Chris Albertson wrote:

> You problem finding a setting in Cura might be that Cura is not
> showing it to you.   By default you get a very "dumbed down" list of
> settings.   But look undr "prefferences --> Settings" and there is a
> long list of setting and checkboxes.  If you check the box Cura will
> show you the setting. Most of these you wil never touch but some are
> "must haves".
>
> You absolutely ned to be able to control the wall thickness and the
> skin thickness.
> You likey want to be able to control the kind of infill, lines,
> triangles or Gyroid.  I use the latter mustly
>
The pulley teeth are very low density, mostly air with a filament bridge 
at a 45 degree angle.  How do solidify the teeth? What I'm getting would 
cut up an XL belt in an hours work, its that sharp.

> I run an informal strength testing program when printing racing
> quadcopter bodies  I intentionally broke some parts.   Here is a rule:
>  Strenght is mostly in the skin but you need enough in-fill so  the
> skin does not deform when the part bends.  In PLA deformation equals
> breaking.   PLA is like building with glass.  Use large tubes filled
> with air and it will be strong like a coke bottle.   Thin sheets are
> weak like window glass.   The coke bottle does not get its strength
> from the air inside the bottle but by its shape.  Use PLA as it it
> were glass, not as if it were aluminum.
>
> Given the above the best PLA designs are "puffy" and thick.Doing
> this with aluminum would be expensive but PLA is filled with 20 to 30
> percent density foam inside.   With PLA parts the cost is mostly in
> the surface areas, not so much the volume.
>
> Also like the coke bottle make every surfave curved and non-flat.  The
> compound curves are strong.  Like the hood of a car is stong only
> after the sheet metal is stamped into a compound curve.
>
> It takes a while to get your brain around the fact that PLA is not
> metal or wood and very complex shapes cost nothing.   At first we
> design stuff as it if were machined but we can do better.
>
> One thing I want to learn is to use "generative design" tools.   This
> is basically a shape optimizer an will re-design parts based on the
> loads and other constraints.  The software comes up with shapes no
> human would ever think of but turn out stronger and lighter.
> https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/generative-design
>
> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 3:13 AM andy pugh  wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > >
> > > > too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts
> > > > I'll increase the number of outer layers.
> > >
> > > I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
> >
> > Presuming that the part has been placed on the bed in Cura.
> > Then in the bar at the top, where is lists the printer, the extruder
> > / material and the quality, click the quality section, and you will
> > seee a drop-down of all the settings.
> >
> > Then in the "Shell" section you can choose how thick you want the
> > wall, and how many lines.
> >
> > I think that if your printer can print at 100% then it is probably
> > under-extruding. There should be only barely space for 100% fill,
> > and so you would expect cumulative oozing errors to build up.
> >
> > I typically print at no more than 25% fill, and for foundry patterns
> > I am down at 5% to save time.
> >
> > --
> > atp
> > "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> > designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
> > lunatics." — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Bruce Layne]

On 6/3/20 3:32 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:

> I think my next printer
> will be a smaller, "delta" style that is best used for higher precision and
> smaller parts
>
> One reason to buy a more expensive printer is if you need a resin printer.

You might consider a resin printer for your high precision smaller
parts.  The MSLA machines are very inexpensive... no where near FormLabs
prices.  I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
delivered, but there are a few others in the same market niche.  I went
with the Shadow because it has dual rails on the Z axis and that's the
premium Gen 2 version at additional cost from other companies.  So far,
the Shadow has been rugged, reliable, and the print quality, as you
said, is on par with injection molding.  Other than the fun of building
it yourself, I don't know why you'd want a delta printer for small high
precision parts unless you have a strong aversion to messy chemical goo.




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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Chris Albertson]

Those Ender printers "just work".  My Anet A6 has been turning out parts
for a year now and runs 12hours a day.

All the posts about how much fiddling the printer take are posted by
beginners who are still learning.  After a few Kg of plastic parts are made
the fiddling time goes way down after you develop a process and workflow.

Every printer, no mater how nice it is has ths learning process.   I would
not recommend an expensive printer until you find that you cheap printer
can't do something you need to do.

If you are new to this the printer is not the weak lnk in the process.
you need to gain experiance.  DO that on a sun $200 machine and then after
runing 10Kg of materials through it you will be able to make an educated
and informed decision. For example in my case.  I think my next printer
will be a smaller, "delta" style that is best used for higher precision and
smaller parts.  I'll build this myself from CNC's metal.   want to make
small precision parts that might be used on a mechanical hand.  I am
currently making one of these: https://openbionicslabs.com/shop/brunel-hand
and can already think of a dozen improvements.Fo this work a full-size
Ender printer works OK but a smaller, slower, and more precision
printer would be better.  You don't know this until after a year or so.
Who would have thought "smaller and slower" would be better?

One reason to buy a more expensive printer is if you need a resin printer.
These use UV light to polymerize a resin into the shape of the part.  They
can be VERY accurate and the resin is very strong. Formlabs makes some
really nice resin printers that work well and offers a yearly service
contract and warranty.   cost is $3K for a very small desktop system.  But
the parts it makes are just like injection moldings and can be rigid of
even soft plastic.  Utilmaker has some good options too if you have the
cash.But the starter printer is a"Prussia" clone, like My Anet A6 or
now the Ender.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 11:21 AM Bari  wrote:

> On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
> > stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand.   The entre printer,
> > extruder, controller and all is under $200.  (they have a sale going
> now.)
> > Seems a waste to spend weeks modifying a mill and milling software t
> > make a machine that is not nearly as god as one you can buy for $189
>
>
> What is the cost down to in mow order to build one of average size that
> actually works reliably? What if you don't want to be constantly be
> readjusting, tuning or replacing parts for it to keep working with some
> accuracy and repeatability? Any idea of cost or if anyone makes this?
>
>
>
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>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Chris Albertson]

You problem finding a setting in Cura might be that Cura is not showing it
to you.   By default you get a very "dumbed down" list of settings.   But
look undr "prefferences --> Settings" and there is a long list of setting
and checkboxes.  If you check the box Cura will show you the setting.
 Most of these you wil never touch but some are "must haves".

You absolutely ned to be able to control the wall thickness and the skin
thickness.
You likey want to be able to control the kind of infill, lines, triangles
or Gyroid.  I use the latter mustly

I run an informal strength testing program when printing racing quadcopter
bodies  I intentionally broke some parts.   Here is a rule:  Strenght is
mostly in the skin but you need enough in-fill so  the skin does not deform
when the part bends.  In PLA deformation equals breaking.   PLA is like
building with glass.  Use large tubes filled with air and it will be strong
like a coke bottle.   Thin sheets are weak like window glass.   The coke
bottle does not get its strength from the air inside the bottle but by its
shape.  Use PLA as it it were glass, not as if it were aluminum.

Given the above the best PLA designs are "puffy" and thick.Doing this
with aluminum would be expensive but PLA is filled with 20 to 30 percent
density foam inside.   With PLA parts the cost is mostly in the surface
areas, not so much the volume.

Also like the coke bottle make every surfave curved and non-flat.  The
compound curves are strong.  Like the hood of a car is stong only after the
sheet metal is stamped into a compound curve.

It takes a while to get your brain around the fact that PLA is not metal or
wood and very complex shapes cost nothing.   At first we design stuff as it
if were machined but we can do better.

One thing I want to learn is to use "generative design" tools.   This is
basically a shape optimizer an will re-design parts based on the loads and
other constraints.  The software comes up with shapes no human would ever
think of but turn out stronger and lighter.
https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/generative-design



On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 3:13 AM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett  wrote:
>
> > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > > too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts I'll
> > > increase the number of outer layers.
> >
> > I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
>
>
> Presuming that the part has been placed on the bed in Cura.
> Then in the bar at the top, where is lists the printer, the extruder /
> material and the quality, click the quality section, and you will seee a
> drop-down of all the settings.
>
> Then in the "Shell" section you can choose how thick you want the wall, and
> how many lines.
>
> I think that if your printer can print at 100% then it is probably
> under-extruding. There should be only barely space for 100% fill, and so
> you would expect cumulative oozing errors to build up.
>
> I typically print at no more than 25% fill, and for foundry patterns I am
> down at 5% to save time.
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Bari]

On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:


Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand.   The entre printer,
extruder, controller and all is under $200.  (they have a sale going now.)
Seems a waste to spend weeks modifying a mill and milling software t
make a machine that is not nearly as god as one you can buy for $189



What is the cost down to in mow order to build one of average size that 
actually works reliably? What if you don't want to be constantly be 
readjusting, tuning or replacing parts for it to keep working with some 
accuracy and repeatability? Any idea of cost or if anyone makes this?




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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Chris Albertson]

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 9:21 AM Thomas J Powderly  wrote:

>
> and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.
>

A typical milling machine does not move nearly fast enough to print
plastic.  You need to move at least 30mm per second and preferably about
100mm per second of roughly 400 inches per minute.  Mine can jog at
120mm/second.When a printer is working you really have trouble tracking
the head with your eyes, it almost moves a little to fast to watch.

Not only does moving this fast speed up the print but it allows the plastic
to flow through the extruder at a better rate.  You need a minimum speed
for things like bridges where you print over air such as across the top of
a hole in a wall

But LinuxCNC would work fine as a controller.  A printer is just like a
4-axis mill.   But why?  Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand.   The entre printer,
extruder, controller and all is under $200.  (they have a sale going now.)
   Seems a waste to spend weeks modifying a mill and milling software t
make a machine that is not nearly as god as one you can buy for $189


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] Cool new take on a foam cutter:

[Leonardo Marsaglia]

>
> Have plenty of wood on other side of the wall in my workshop intended for
> heating.
>

Next time I'll take a look at your place then lol. :)

I guess you are in northern Europe is that right?

El mié., 3 jun. 2020 a las 12:04, N ()
escribió:

> > Nice machine! Looks like a little bit of a challenge to program it.
> >
> > The funny thing is that I struggled and failed trying to cut some foam to
> > make a simple aluminum casting model last weekend. I ended up doing it in
> > wood.
>
> Have plenty of wood on other side of the wall in my workshop intended for
> heating.
>
>
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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:32:55 andy pugh wrote:

> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 17:20, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't
> "raft"
>
> > thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of the nut,
> > and about .4mm thick, centered in the height of the nut channel, and
> > blocking the nut insert hole all the way to the bottom.  And it
> > wasn't in the preview, that was good.
>
> It is probably in the layer-by-later preview (which you control by
> sliding two points up and down a line)
> And it is probably a support. It _should_ ping out as there is a gap
> left on top of support to prevent prober adhesion.
> Het a screwdriver in there and start levering.

I've done some of that, to no avail. It seems to be anchored quite 
solidly at a point out from where the nut would be.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:25:24 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:

> The .4mm wide “tongue” you describe could be support structure
> automatically put there by the Cura slicer. You should be able to
> control how/if/where these are placed.
>
A menu item I've not explored yet. Didn't figure my things needed it.
Something else to fiddle with.

> > On Jun 3, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Gene Heskett 
> > wrote:
> >
> > On Wednesday 03 June 2020 11:23:08 Gene Heskett wrote:
> >> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 10:33:28 andy pugh wrote:
> >>> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett 
> >
> > wrote:
>  Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
> 
>  It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.
> >>
> >> I'll look again the next time I run it, I'd assume 20% low is ok,
> >> but 2% high can be trouble? So don't get carried away going up.
> >>
> >>
> >> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >
> > And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't
> > "raft" thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of
> > the nut, and about .4mm thick, centered in the height of the nut
> > channel, and blocking the nut insert hole all the way to the bottom.
> >  And it wasn't in the preview, that was good.  And this one is also
> > doing it (leaving or) forming a post up the middle of the 5mm access
> > hole for the grub screw. ???
> >
> > The 8mm shaft hole is however an excellent fit.  A20 lb push or pull
> > puts it on or pulls it off.
> >
> > And the so called 40mm hub is closer to 39.20mm and only about .1mm
> > out of round.  For driving this BS-1, thats more than good enough
> > for the girls I've gone with.
> >
> > So, obviously this isn't a working model, yet...
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > --
> > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law
> > respectable. - Louis D. Brandeis
> > Genes Web page 
> >
> >
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
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 - Louis D. Brandeis
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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:19:33 Thomas J Powderly wrote:

> Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
>
No.  This is, except for what I've fiddled with and noted here, an OOTB 
Creality Ender 3 Pro. Running the cura sliced gcode on its own little 
computer, carried to it on an 8Gig u-sd card. So the errors I am seeing 
now are Cura's, the machine is doing what cura tells it to do.

> I have a hotend and a roll of PLA
>
> and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.

Which might be an interesting experiment. But the diff in moving mass of 
a hot head and a motor will screw with the machines ballistics. I note 
that Marlin, which is their version of linuxcnc, has jerk comp tuning 
knobs that have never appeared on linuxcnc.

thanks

Take care and stay well, tomp

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
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Re: [Emc-users] Cool new take on a foam cutter:

[andy pugh]

On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 17:12, Thomas J Powderly  wrote:

> a simpler (!) take on similar idea
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZTyospKniQ
>

But that misses the point of this new one, which uses a self-supporting rod
to make compound curves.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[andy pugh]

On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 17:20, Gene Heskett  wrote:

And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't "raft"
> thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of the nut, and
> about .4mm thick, centered in the height of the nut channel, and
> blocking the nut insert hole all the way to the bottom.  And it wasn't
> in the preview, that was good.


It is probably in the layer-by-later preview (which you control by sliding
two points up and down a line)
And it is probably a support. It _should_ ping out as there is a gap left
on top of support to prevent prober adhesion.
Het a screwdriver in there and start levering.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Thaddeus Waldner]

The .4mm wide “tongue” you describe could be support structure automatically 
put there by the Cura slicer. You should be able to control how/if/where these 
are placed.

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 11:23:08 Gene Heskett wrote:
> 
>> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 10:33:28 andy pugh wrote:
>>> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett  
> wrote:
 Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
 
 It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.
>> 
>> I'll look again the next time I run it, I'd assume 20% low is ok, but
>> 2% high can be trouble? So don't get carried away going up.
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> 
> And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't "raft" 
> thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of the nut, and 
> about .4mm thick, centered in the height of the nut channel, and 
> blocking the nut insert hole all the way to the bottom.  And it wasn't 
> in the preview, that was good.  And this one is also doing it (leaving 
> or) forming a post up the middle of the 5mm access hole for the grub 
> screw. ???
> 
> The 8mm shaft hole is however an excellent fit.  A20 lb push or pull puts 
> it on or pulls it off. 
> 
> And the so called 40mm hub is closer to 39.20mm and only about .1mm out 
> of round.  For driving this BS-1, thats more than good enough for the 
> girls I've gone with.
> 
> So, obviously this isn't a working model, yet...
> 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> -- 
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
> - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
> 
> 
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[Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

[Thomas J Powderly]

Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?

I have a hotend and a roll of PLA

and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.

thanks

tomp



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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 11:23:08 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 10:33:28 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > > Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
> > >
> > > It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.
>
> I'll look again the next time I run it, I'd assume 20% low is ok, but
> 2% high can be trouble? So don't get carried away going up.
>
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't "raft" 
thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of the nut, and 
about .4mm thick, centered in the height of the nut channel, and 
blocking the nut insert hole all the way to the bottom.  And it wasn't 
in the preview, that was good.  And this one is also doing it (leaving 
or) forming a post up the middle of the 5mm access hole for the grub 
screw. ???

The 8mm shaft hole is however an excellent fit.  A20 lb push or pull puts 
it on or pulls it off. 

And the so called 40mm hub is closer to 39.20mm and only about .1mm out 
of round.  For driving this BS-1, thats more than good enough for the 
girls I've gone with.

So, obviously this isn't a working model, yet...

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 10:33:28 andy pugh wrote:

> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
> >
> > It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.

I'll look again the next time I run it, I'd assume 20% low is ok, but 2% 
high can be trouble? So don't get carried away going up.


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 09:23:44 Bruce Layne wrote:

> On 6/3/20 2:25 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > That sounds like a heated enclosure might be worthwhile, keeping it
> > warm enough to stress relieve?
>
> That completely obvious idea is locked up in a patent held by
> Stratasys, that should have already expired, but their lawyers used
> the trick developed by pharmaceutical company lawyers to extend the
> life of a patent.
>
> > How does that compare to PLA for the expendables $?
>
> PLA and ABS filament are around US$15 per kg.  Commodity resin goo
> costs around US$30 per kg, so it's twice as expensive but the prices
> are slowly falling.  With more volume, it'll probably reach price
> parity with filament.  The cost isn't prohibitive when printing a few
> small resin parts for your own use.  The small build platform,
> essentially a cell phone display, is the limiting factor for making
> structural parts, but there are some tablet sized LCD UV printers
> entering the low cost market.  If there's a faster and less messy
> finishing process, resin printing will probably displace filament
> printing in a few years for many common applications.
>
Parity still means the stink though, so thats an out of the house job 
till someone invents a formula that works and doesn't stink. And I 
expect even a reduction in the smell will be well patented till I'm long 
gone.

> I've been thinking about getting one of the larger format (300mm X
> 300mm X 400mm) filament printers, but I want a direct extruder rather
> than the Bowden style, and maybe I should wait for that bogus
> Stratasys patent to expire so I can print dimensionally stable ABS. 
> My first task this morning was to pull the ABS part off my 3D printer,
> make some measurements, revise the CAD drawing and reprint the part to
> get the critical dimensions I want.  Compensating for nonlinear ABS
> shrinkage is a pain that the slicer should do for me, but apparently
> doesn't.

It would have to have knowledge of the shrinkage orientation, and that 
could change directions every 2 feet coming off the spool. So I expect 
ABS will not ever get a truly dependable, defined to the .1% level of 
shrinkage.

Take care Bruce and stay well.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] Cool new take on a foam cutter:

[N]

> Nice machine! Looks like a little bit of a challenge to program it.
> 
> The funny thing is that I struggled and failed trying to cut some foam to
> make a simple aluminum casting model last weekend. I ended up doing it in
> wood.

Have plenty of wood on other side of the wall in my workshop intended for 
heating.


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[andy pugh]

On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett  wrote:

>
> Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
>
> It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 07:44:31 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 06:10:18 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > >
> > > > too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts
> > > > I'll increase the number of outer layers.
> > >
> > > I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
> >
> > Presuming that the part has been placed on the bed in Cura.
> > Then in the bar at the top, where is lists the printer, the extruder
> > / material and the quality, click the quality section, and you will
> > seee a drop-down of all the settings.
> >
> > Then in the "Shell" section you can choose how thick you want the
> > wall, and how many lines.
>
> okay.
>
> > I think that if your printer can print at 100% then it is probably
> > under-extruding. There should be only barely space for 100% fill,
> > and so you would expect cumulative oozing errors to build up.
>
> I don't think I see any of those.
>
> > I typically print at no more than 25% fill, and for foundry patterns
> > I am down at 5% to save time.
>
> In this example, the base hub seems fairly solid, I don't have a tool
> capable of cutting the nut pocket clear as it has a thin film of
> adhesion layer across the opening that will need cut away before a nut
> can be inserted.
>
> it stuck real well, and didn't even start to come loose until the bed
> was down to 30C.  Then it came off clean And the sprocket section
> still looks like a 50% fill. Tooth finish is very rough. Nothing like
> the OD and both faces of the hub.
>
> I resaved the sprocket so I have a good starting point for the next
> run. This one might be usable, but I'd like to see a better finish on
> the sprockets teeth. I can visualize a pile of rubber debris from the
> XL belt on the table below this one.
>
> But before the next run, reset the z home about 3 or 4 mm lower, the
> hand wheels to level the bed are so high they out of spring.  And find
> some washers for the spool holder, the screws are bottoming in the
> channel and leaving the holder loose so it can tilt 10 degrees either
> way.  And the edge of the bed and the psu are touching & dragging on
> the Y axis some. I am wondering it theres a small diff in the lengths
> of the pre-assembled Y and bed "H" cross pieces and its been assembled
> with them swapped. Theres a good 1/2" of clearance between the left
> edge of the bed  and the left leg. Stranger things have happened. ;-)

No chance there. Orientation is fixed by where the bolt mounting the 
computer is. But on the next pause, I'll loosen the bolts holding the y 
drive to the xbar and see if it can rotate it CCW about a degree which 
would align it better for clearance at the rear of the psu.

I had to nip the stopper off the z switch and lowered it about 3mm.  The 
limit is when its out of room under it because stuff is hitting the 
heater, like the brass ends on the Y belt that are sticking up.  The 
wheels to adjust it work a lot better now.  That was the general 
idea. :-)
Anyway, 1mm thicker shell walls, only 50% infill in gyroid pattern, 
whatever that is, and a 5mm grub screw and pocket now. Laid down lots of 
brim for adhesion, looks messy, but all that comes off fairly clean.

A somewhat worn 6" jointer knife, well magnetized to lay flat on the bed, 
makes an excellent cleanup tool, does leave any leftover plastic on the 
bed while the edge is clearing off anything left from the last run.  And 
nozzle pressure against the paper should be easily felt.  We're 
learning...


Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed, is this determined by 
nozzle temps or ???  Seems to my ancient brain that a higher nozzle temp 
would make it lay plastic faster, and the motor driving that would speed 
up a hair to keep up. Currently 200C nozzle and a 60C bed. 30mm max xy 
feed.

Thanks all.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 07:44:31 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 06:10:18 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > >
> > > > too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts
> > > > I'll increase the number of outer layers.
> > >
> > > I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
> >
> > Presuming that the part has been placed on the bed in Cura.
> > Then in the bar at the top, where is lists the printer, the extruder
> > / material and the quality, click the quality section, and you will
> > seee a drop-down of all the settings.
> >
> > Then in the "Shell" section you can choose how thick you want the
> > wall, and how many lines.
>
> okay.
>
> > I think that if your printer can print at 100% then it is probably
> > under-extruding. There should be only barely space for 100% fill,
> > and so you would expect cumulative oozing errors to build up.
>
> I don't think I see any of those.
>
> > I typically print at no more than 25% fill, and for foundry patterns
> > I am down at 5% to save time.
>
> In this example, the base hub seems fairly solid, I don't have a tool
> capable of cutting the nut pocket clear as it has a thin film of
> adhesion layer across the opening that will need cut away before a nut
> can be inserted.
>
> it stuck real well, and didn't even start to come loose until the bed
> was down to 30C.  Then it came off clean And the sprocket section
> still looks like a 50% fill. Tooth finish is very rough. Nothing like
> the OD and both faces of the hub.
>
> I resaved the sprocket so I have a good starting point for the next
> run. This one might be usable, but I'd like to see a better finish on
> the sprockets teeth. I can visualize a pile of rubber debris from the
> XL belt on the table below this one.
>
> But before the next run, reset the z home about 3 or 4 mm lower, the
> hand wheels to level the bed are so high they out of spring.  And find
> some washers for the spool holder, the screws are bottoming in the
> channel and leaving the holder loose so it can tilt 10 degrees either
> way.  And the edge of the bed and the psu are touching & dragging on
> the Y axis some. I am wondering it theres a small diff in the lengths
> of the pre-assembled Y and bed "H" cross pieces and its been assembled
> with them swapped. Theres a good 1/2" of clearance between the left
> edge of the bed  and the left leg. Stranger things have happened. ;-)
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

Done all that, and made a few changes including the name, but the sd card 
is owned by root, its vfat I guess and I have no rights to save it as 
gene, nor can I sudo to change it with chown.  The save menu is disabled 
for anything but /media/sdf1. WTF???  finally found the save file 
option, and saved it to my linuxcnc/nc_files dir.  Then sudo chown 
root:root, then a sudo session of mc was able to copy it to the sd card.  
Why the hell did they make that a root only function? THIS IS USER SHIT! 
Anyway, sudo sync, sudo eject.  And its warming up for the next print 
now.  Estimated 6.6 hours.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 06:10:18 andy pugh wrote:

> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> >
> > > too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts
> > > I'll increase the number of outer layers.
> >
> > I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
>
> Presuming that the part has been placed on the bed in Cura.
> Then in the bar at the top, where is lists the printer, the extruder /
> material and the quality, click the quality section, and you will seee
> a drop-down of all the settings.
>
> Then in the "Shell" section you can choose how thick you want the
> wall, and how many lines.

okay.

> I think that if your printer can print at 100% then it is probably
> under-extruding. There should be only barely space for 100% fill, and
> so you would expect cumulative oozing errors to build up.

I don't think I see any of those.
>
> I typically print at no more than 25% fill, and for foundry patterns I
> am down at 5% to save time.

In this example, the base hub seems fairly solid, I don't have a tool 
capable of cutting the nut pocket clear as it has a thin film of 
adhesion layer across the opening that will need cut away before a nut 
can be inserted.

it stuck real well, and didn't even start to come loose until the bed was 
down to 30C.  Then it came off clean And the sprocket section still 
looks like a 50% fill. Tooth finish is very rough. Nothing like the OD 
and both faces of the hub.

I resaved the sprocket so I have a good starting point for the next run.
This one might be usable, but I'd like to see a better finish on the 
sprockets teeth. I can visualize a pile of rubber debris from the XL 
belt on the table below this one.

But before the next run, reset the z home about 3 or 4 mm lower, the hand 
wheels to level the bed are so high they out of spring.  And find some 
washers for the spool holder, the screws are bottoming in the channel 
and leaving the holder loose so it can tilt 10 degrees either way.  And 
the edge of the bed and the psu are touching & dragging on the Y axis 
some. I am wondering it theres a small diff in the lengths of the 
pre-assembled Y and bed "H" cross pieces and its been assembled with 
them swapped. Theres a good 1/2" of clearance between the left edge of 
the bed  and the left leg. Stranger things have happened. ;-)

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[andy pugh]

On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts I'll
> > increase the number of outer layers.
>
> I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?


Presuming that the part has been placed on the bed in Cura.
Then in the bar at the top, where is lists the printer, the extruder /
material and the quality, click the quality section, and you will seee a
drop-down of all the settings.

Then in the "Shell" section you can choose how thick you want the wall, and
how many lines.

I think that if your printer can print at 100% then it is probably
under-extruding. There should be only barely space for 100% fill, and so
you would expect cumulative oozing errors to build up.

I typically print at no more than 25% fill, and for foundry patterns I am
down at 5% to save time.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] Cool new take on a foam cutter:

[Leonardo Marsaglia]

Nice machine! Looks like a little bit of a challenge to program it.

The funny thing is that I struggled and failed trying to cut some foam to
make a simple aluminum casting model last weekend. I ended up doing it in
wood.

El mié., 3 jun. 2020 a las 5:28, andy pugh () escribió:

>
> https://hackaday.com/2020/06/03/dual-wielding-robot-carves-3d-shapes-from-foam-with-warped-wire/
>
>
> I don't think LinuxCNC has quite enough DOF to control this.
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
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[Emc-users] Cool new take on a foam cutter:

[andy pugh]

https://hackaday.com/2020/06/03/dual-wielding-robot-carves-3d-shapes-from-foam-with-warped-wire/


I don't think LinuxCNC has quite enough DOF to control this.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

Here's an inside corner trick for FDM printers. Model a small cylindrical 
'bite' out of the corner, similar to overshooting the corners a bit in a plate 
with an end mill so that the pointy corner of what fits the hole will just 
touch the outer curve of the rounded overshoot.
What the goal is with FDM printing is to have the plastic squish out that would 
normally result in a slightly rounded corner fill in the rounded bit so the 
corner ends up pretty sharp. It does make the extruder do a wee little dance 
around the corners but that's more convenient that having to attempt to file 
out corners. PLA is a hard plastic to file or sand.

Similar principle to the Bell Centennial font that's been used to print 
telephone books since 1937. All the sharp inside corners have little cut outs 
called ink traps so when the ink bleeds it forms a sharp corner instead of 
bleeding a sharp corner to a round one. It's where I got the idea for 3D 
printing design.
For an item that needed a thin slot to snap onto a piece of thick sheet metal, 
I made small ovals perpendicular to the ends, ensuring that the sides of the 
metal tab would butt against the sides of the ovals. I cut that part off the 
model to print a test part, it snapped onto the tab perfectly so I printed the 
complete part.

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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

3D printers do not love a wobbly base, such as a saggy folding plastic table 
with styrofoam on top.
On the other hand, a solid slab with some dense foam below, atop a rigid 
support, works well. Dampens higher frequency vibrations while not allowing 
things to jerk around. Or fix it very rigidly in place so it can't move at all.

https://hackaday.com/2020/05/20/bricking-your-3d-printer-in-a-good-way/

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 11:45:59 PM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote:  
Noisewise, its sitting on the top layer of shipping foam from its box, on 
a saggy molded plastic folding table and I can't hear it except an 
occasional squeak from the motors over the houses central air. Very 
quiet.

The "Learning Curve" is leaning a wee bit.

Thanks Dave

Cheers, Gene Heskett  
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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 01:32:50 Bruce Layne wrote:

> 3D PRINTING - WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND WHAT I'VE LEARNED
>
> I print on borosilicate glass.  I use Elmer's Xtreme glue stick for
> first layer adhesion.  The larger 40 gram stick takes less time to
> apply.  I use a clean dry borosilicate glass plate.  Apply the glue
> when the plate is room temperature.  Press down with 1-2 pounds of
> force making contact with the entire flat face of the glue stick and
> move the glue stick one inch per second to produce a thin and nearly
> transparent layer of glue.  You don't want gloppy thick glue.  Overlap
> the glue stick slightly for complete coverage.  Apply the glue
> immediately before printing.  The glue stick works well when printing
> with ABS or PLA. Here are my settings:
>
> PLA
> Nozzle Temperature:  215C
> Bed Temperature:  80C for the first layer and then 50C for the other
> layers (50C for all layers works well too)
>
> ABS
> Nozzle Temperature:  230C
> Bed Temperature:  110C
>
> If you use hairspray as a first layer adhesive, remove the glass sheet
> before spraying it.  I see YouTube videos where people fog the inside
> of their 3D printers with hairspray that'll gum up whatever precision
> linear motion components their printer uses.
>
> In addition to proper adhesive, a level bed at the correct height is
> also a necessity for that critical first layer adhesion.  I designed
> and printed some oversized knurled thumb wheels to replace the tiny M3
> wingnuts that the printer manufacturer supplied for bed leveling.  I
> used nylon thread locking M3 nuts as inserts into my thumb wheels to
> help the bed stay level.
>
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4383435
>
> If you want to really dial in the bed leveling, do the regular bed
> leveling with a thin shim, then print a 30mm square that's .2mm thick
> (one layer) over each bed leveling nut.  If you see the plastic
> smearing, the bed is too high.  Stop the print to avoid clogging the
> nozzle and lower the bed.  If the squares print but when peeled from
> the bed they're composed of individual strands, the bed is too low and
> needs to be raised slightly.  When the bed is level at the correct
> height, each of the sample squares will print as a solid plastic
> film.  Slicers have software settings for first layer printing
> parameters.  I prefer to leave these as default.  If you fix a bad bed
> level with slicer settings, the problem will return with a different
> slicer profile.
>
> It's also necessary to easily remove the parts after printing.  This
> isn't only a matter of convenience.  People attack their printed parts
> with a sharp scraper and try to pry them off the bed.  Many people
> have gouged themselves with a sharp scraper blade.  Using excessive
> force to pull the parts off the bed results in at best a ruined bed
> level.  Who applies that kind of force to delicate precision motion
> components?  For PLA parts, I dribble some water around the perimeter
> of the part and it dissolves the glue, wicking under the part and
> floating it off the print bed in a few minutes.  ABS parts are even
> easier.  ABS is printed at a higher temperature and shrinks more when
> it cools.  ABS parts pop off the glass bed when it cools.  It often
> sounds like the glass has cracked when the ABS pops free a section at
> a time.  If you use any form of violence to remove your printed parts,
> you're doing it wrong.
>
> I find it easier to make dimensionally correct parts with PLA.  ABS
> shrinkage isn't linear.  It depends on part geometry, infill, etc.  If
> I want accurate ABS parts I'll adjust the design to get the dimensions
> I want.
>
> It's counter intuitive but filament deposition 3D printed parts with
> 100% infill are less structural.  There is no internal compliance so
> the solid part has internal stress and is likely to fail by layer
> separation.

That sounds like a heated enclosure might be worthwhile, keeping it warm 
enough to stress relieve?

> 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong 
> too.  I usually use 20% or 25% infill.  If I want stronger parts I'll
> increase the number of outer layers.

I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
>
> I recently bought an MSLA resin printer to complement my FDM
> printers.  With a structural resin such as Siraya Blu, the resin
> printer would make some VERY strong and dimensionally accurate parts,
> such as timing belt pulleys.  The biggest disadvantage is the
> relatively small build volume, but I've been making some very nice
> parts that are comparable to injection molded parts.  Even with low
> cost commodity resin, the solid parts from the MSLA printer are very
> strong.
>
How does that compare to PLA for the expendables $?

Thanks Bruce, stay well.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law 

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 00:18:05 Lawrence Glaister wrote:

> Hi Gene,
> One thing to mention about your printer that seems to have been
> missed: The USB connector... when you plug a usb cable between your PC
> and the printer (usually micro) USB connector, the printer looks like
> a serial port device to the PC.
> Using  a program such as repetier-host (https://www.repetier.com/) and
> the USB connected printer will allow you direct control of the printer
> such as jogging, heater controls etc. The repetier host also lets you
> load a gcode file produced by your slicer and to stream the gcode to
> the printer over the USB serial line while giving you a 3D progress
> plot similar to axis. You dont need to use a raspi and octoprint
> although that works well if your development computer is not within
> USB cable distance of your printer.
> Lots of ways to do things. With using the serial connection, you dont
> need to worry about using the sdcard, although I have cursed a few
> times when I moved my chair in the middle of a long print job and
> pulled the USB cable out!.
> The SD card is handy if you set up a room full of printers in
> production mode and not bother with computer connections for each
> printer.
>
> cheers
> Lawrence
>
I have a 10 meter boosted usb cable, but it doesn't end in that plug 
style, so I'd have to get another hub and a otg adapter cable. But this 
cable is only usb-2.  Would it work with a hub and adapter?

Thanks Lawrence
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad

[Gene Heskett]

On Tuesday 02 June 2020 21:05:42 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

> apimage is an app image. Supposed to work on any distro of Linux
> unlike the old distribution specific packages.

I hadn't come in contact with such a critter yet, so that was new to me. 
I guess they figured on me having 32GB to play in with this new board in 
my main box. ;-) Side disadvantage though, the buffer containing its 
operating profile is in the image, and not accessible to the user as a 
different default setup.  I'd a lot druther have seen that as an actual 
file.  Its also a pita to have to make the output file owned by root 
before I can copy it to the 8G card for transport to the printer. 
Otherwise even a sudo session of mc can't copy it cuz I own the gcode, 
somebody's paranoia strikes again.  Grr.

Thanks Greg, stay well now.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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