Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 28 March 2021 21:00:56 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Back to printing ball bearings.   The best way is not to do it.  Buy
> sealed bearing units and press them into a printed recess.   But large
> diameter sealed bearings can be expensive.The next best design is
> to buy metal balls and print the races and assemble them.   Printing
> the rollers never works well.  If you want everything to be made of
> plastic buy the plastic balls used by "airsoft" guns.  These make
> pretty good bearings, much better than you can print and 2,000 balls,
> 6mm in diameter cost only $10.
>
> If you like a challenge, try printing a sealed ball bearing unit on
> one "go".  It can be done as a stint but does not make a good bearing
> for use in a machine.
>
> As for getting plastic to stick to glass try cleaning it very well
> with "Bar Keepers Friend". The stuff is a powder like "Comet" but is
> acidic and is much better for removing oils and such from
> fingerprints.   Hairspray usually works too.
>
I use that in the kitchen, beats comet like a white mouthed mule.
But I must confess I hadn't thought of it for this, thanks Chris.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Chris Albertson]

Back to printing ball bearings.   The best way is not to do it.  Buy sealed
bearing units and press them into a printed recess.   But large diameter
sealed bearings can be expensive.The next best design is to buy metal
balls and print the races and assemble them.   Printing the rollers never
works well.  If you want everything to be made of plastic buy
the plastic balls used by "airsoft" guns.  These make pretty good bearings,
much better than you can print and 2,000 balls, 6mm in diameter cost only
$10.

If you like a challenge, try printing a sealed ball bearing unit on one
"go".  It can be done as a stint but does not make a good bearing for use
in a machine.

As for getting plastic to stick to glass try cleaning it very well with
"Bar Keepers Friend". The stuff is a powder like "Comet" but is acidic and
is much better for removing oils and such from fingerprints.   Hairspray
usually works too.

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 1:31 PM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 19:18, Gene Heskett  wrote:
>
> > PEI? If you mean the black stuff shipped with overture filament thats too
> > small for an ender 3,
>
> All the PEI film I have seen has been a transparent amber colour,
> similar but paler than Kapton.
>
> > > An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
> > > when adhesion isn't working.
> >
> > Paint store alky I assume, or is 91% good enough?
>
> Isopropanol. Also what I use for cleaning flux off of PCBs.
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
> lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
>
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-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 28 March 2021 16:28:39 andy pugh wrote:

> On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 19:18, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > PEI? If you mean the black stuff shipped with overture filament
> > thats too small for an ender 3,
>
> All the PEI film I have seen has been a transparent amber colour,
> similar but paler than Kapton.
>
Thats not what I have, and DDG searching for PEI gets you about the first 
500 hits for Prince Edward Island. :)
I put this on the heater but couldn't level it right, put it on the glass 
but couldn't get a consistent nozzle gap, but the dremel despite going 
thru the 9 point auto setup, seems incapable of compensation for the 
difference in thickness and re-establishing the correct nozzle gap.  
This stuff is a variation of what is supplied with a new ender 3 pro.

Dark grey, rough satin finish, if PETG is going to stick, its stuck 
forever although you can at just the right angle, get under it with a 
freshly sharpened, on one side only, putty knife and peel it off, but a 
knife that sharp shaves the plastic too, so you wind up with a lot of 
PETG, under .01mm thick, stuck to it forever.

> > > An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the
> > > occasions when adhesion isn't working.

Didn't work here, but obviously I don't have the same material you do.
Alky doesn't seem to affect this almost black stuff one way or the other.
I'll look around now that I know what color it is.  Real thin like HV 
kaptan, or thicker? Adhesive backed?
 
> > Paint store alky I assume, or is 91% good enough?
>
> Isopropanol. Also what I use for cleaning flux off of PCBs.

So do I for PCB's but running low, gotta find a paint store with gallons, 
getting hard to find now.  Ditto acetone cuz everytime you carry a 
gallon, or even quarts to the register they think you're makeing meth. 

Acetone is faster, but like Freon TF, leaves to much crap behind as it 
dries. It also damages epoxy glues.

I used to buy 6 gallon cases of TF until I ran out, tried the paint store 
alky and discovered I was only doing about 5% as much head cleaning as I 
was with TF. Got my attention in less than a week, it was that obvious. 
DVC-PRO video heads, at $3500 a copy also lasted longer, giving me the 
idea that TF was damaging the glues holding those very precise ferrite 
bits together.  Never bought another gallon of TF. Went from 2500 
spinning hours life to 7500+. Rated for 1000. That was something I could 
show in my annual budget estimate when theres 13 of them scattered 
around the building. :)

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[John Dammeyer]

> From: Jon Elson [mailto:el...@pico-systems.com]
> On 03/28/2021 05:09 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
> > On 03/28/2021 02:46 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
> >> I'll hold off for now. Too many things on my plate.
> >> Plus I'm pretty sure I downloaded the bore IJ code from
> >> someone's web site where they had a bunch of utilities
> >> available. I really want to acknowledge who did the
> >> original work.
> > Well, these programs have been posted since 1998 or so, so
> > who knows how many people might have downloaded them and
> > adjusted them to their own needs.
> >
> > I did post the source of my newest programs (all c) on my
> > web page at :
> > http://pico-systems.com/gcode.html
> >
> Oh, and the ancient Pascal source is in :
> http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/
> 
> > Jon

Ah!  The C Code comments and commented out fragments of code for 
makeboreijmain.pas that I created match your makebore.c so I will add credit to 
you in the program header.  Wasn't there because I see it's not in your source 
code either.  Should have done it right away.

Credit must go to where credit is due.
John Dammeyer




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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[Valerio Bellizzomi]

On Sun, 2021-03-28 at 17:05 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
> On 03/28/2021 02:34 PM, Valerio Bellizzomi wrote:
> > I am very interested in your programs. In the past I have 
> > used PyCAM to generate gcode, and even Excel and text 
> > editors to write gcode, attempted to use BlenderCAM 
> > without success, still have to test FreeCAD Path Module.
> I have put the Pascal source on my web page at :
> http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/dragon.pas
>This makes an engraving program for the Sierpinski 
> snowflake space filling curve.
> http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/hilbert.pas
>This makes an engraving program for the Hilbert space 
> filling curve.
> http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/makebore.pas
> http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/makering.pas
>  This program cuts a ring-shaped groove for checking the 
> spindle tram of a milling machine.
> http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/maketram.pas
> 
> If you can't access these files let me know, there could be 
> a permission problem.
> 
> Jon


Thank you very much.





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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[Jon Elson]

On 03/28/2021 02:34 PM, Valerio Bellizzomi wrote:
I am very interested in your programs. In the past I have 
used PyCAM to generate gcode, and even Excel and text 
editors to write gcode, attempted to use BlenderCAM 
without success, still have to test FreeCAD Path Module.

I have put the Pascal source on my web page at :
http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/dragon.pas
  This makes an engraving program for the Sierpinski 
snowflake space filling curve.

http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/hilbert.pas
  This makes an engraving program for the Hilbert space 
filling curve.

http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/makebore.pas
http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/makering.pas
This program cuts a ring-shaped groove for checking the 
spindle tram of a milling machine.

http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/maketram.pas

If you can't access these files let me know, there could be 
a permission problem.


Jon




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Re: [Emc-users] Maybe a minimally printed harmonic drive?

[Sam Sokolik]

have not done any destructive testing - but finally grabbed an oem650 drive
so I can have full 4 axis to play with.  Seems to run the rotary atleast as
good as the leadshine.

http://electronicsam.com/images/greenmachine/IMG_20210328_165552.jpg

On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 8:36 AM Sam Sokolik  wrote:

> I have a cheap chuck that is held on with 3 cap head screws.  My plan is
> to make a disk that registers the center of the faceplate and the inside
> lip of the chuck. - I don't remember the exact size..  about 4.5"
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 9:48 PM John Dammeyer 
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> > From: Sam Sokolik [mailto:samco...@gmail.com]
>> > http://electronicsam.com/images/greenmachine/IMG_20210321_133551.jpg
>> >
>>
>> So Sam,
>> What's the diameter of the faceplate?
>> And are you planning on mounting a chuck onto it?
>>
>> If so, all the front mount ones still need some sort of registration
>> groove on the inner diameter of the mounting screws.
>>
>> Andy Pugh created a faceplate for his Harmonic drive that had camlock
>> chuck capability.  This way he could move his 3 or 4 jaw chuck from the
>> lathe to the 4th axis on the mill.
>>
>> In my case I have a South Bend Heavy 10L with the threaded spindle.
>> Short of modifying it with some sort of locking nut or pin to prevent
>> reverse rotation off the threads, I'm not sure putting a threaded nose onto
>> a 4th axis is a good idea.
>>
>> A smaller chuck on a faceplate that is threaded for the South bend but
>> has screws and a registration groove for the 4th axis seems like an idea
>> that might work.  I have 3" chucks for the Gingery Lathe but they are on 16
>> TPI threaded arbors.
>>
>> John Dammeyer
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>

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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[Jon Elson]

On 03/28/2021 02:46 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:

I'll hold off for now. Too many things on my plate.
Plus I'm pretty sure I downloaded the bore IJ code from 
someone's web site where they had a bunch of utilities 
available. I really want to acknowledge who did the 
original work.
Well, these programs have been posted since 1998 or so, so 
who knows how many people might have downloaded them and 
adjusted them to their own needs.


I did post the source of my newest programs (all c) on my 
web page at :

http://pico-systems.com/gcode.html

Jon


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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[Jon Elson]

On 03/28/2021 05:09 PM, Jon Elson wrote:

On 03/28/2021 02:46 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:

I'll hold off for now. Too many things on my plate.
Plus I'm pretty sure I downloaded the bore IJ code from 
someone's web site where they had a bunch of utilities 
available. I really want to acknowledge who did the 
original work.
Well, these programs have been posted since 1998 or so, so 
who knows how many people might have downloaded them and 
adjusted them to their own needs.


I did post the source of my newest programs (all c) on my 
web page at :

http://pico-systems.com/gcode.html


Oh, and the ancient Pascal source is in :
http://pico-systems.com/codes/gcode/


Jon




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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[andy pugh]

On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 19:18, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> PEI? If you mean the black stuff shipped with overture filament thats too
> small for an ender 3,

All the PEI film I have seen has been a transparent amber colour,
similar but paler than Kapton.

> > An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
> > when adhesion isn't working.
>
> Paint store alky I assume, or is 91% good enough?

Isopropanol. Also what I use for cleaning flux off of PCBs.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912


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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[Valerio Bellizzomi]

On Sun, 2021-03-28 at 13:48 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
> On 03/28/2021 11:52 AM, John Dammeyer wrote:
> > The code fragment I posted was originally in C.  I translated that
> > to Pascal.  I was just wondering if you were the author of the bore
> > with IJ or R C code.  I didn't see any links to the programs on
> > your web site.
> > 
> > 
> Right, I never posted the Pascal source as I thought that 
> was too far off the beaten path.
> My Allen-Bradley control didn't have R arcs, I don't think, 
> so my original programs all generated
> the I and J words.  When I moved to EMC in about 1998, I 
> found it was too picky about start and end radii so I 
> changed it to use the R words.
> 
> If you want all my old Pascal programs, I could sent them.  
> Also, I have some newer programs
> that I have never put on my web site that do more advanced 
> movements, like ramping down in Z.
> 
> Jon


I am very interested in your programs.
In the past I have used PyCAM to generate gcode, and even Excel and
text editors to write gcode, attempted to use BlenderCAM without
success, still have to test FreeCAD Path Module.

Valerio




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Re: [Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[John Dammeyer]

Hi Jon,


> From: Jon Elson [mailto:el...@pico-systems.com]
> On 03/28/2021 11:52 AM, John Dammeyer wrote:
> > The code fragment I posted was originally in C.  I translated that to 
> > Pascal.  I was just wondering if you were the author of the bore
> with IJ or R C code.  I didn't see any links to the programs on your web site.
> >
> >
> Right, I never posted the Pascal source as I thought that
> was too far off the beaten path.
> My Allen-Bradley control didn't have R arcs, I don't think,
> so my original programs all generated
> the I and J words.  When I moved to EMC in about 1998, I
> found it was too picky about start and end radii so I
> changed it to use the R words.
> 
> If you want all my old Pascal programs, I could sent them.
> Also, I have some newer programs
> that I have never put on my web site that do more advanced
> movements, like ramping down in Z.
> 
> Jon

I'll hold off for now.  Too many things on my plate.  Seems it never rains but 
pours.  I thought I had time this weekend of finish some kitchen under cabinet 
lighting.  Sigh... Not!

Plus I'm pretty sure I downloaded the bore IJ code from someone's web site 
where they had a bunch of utilities available.  I really want to acknowledge 
who did the original work.

John




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[Emc-users] Programs to write G code

[Jon Elson]

On 03/28/2021 11:52 AM, John Dammeyer wrote:

The code fragment I posted was originally in C.  I translated that to Pascal.  
I was just wondering if you were the author of the bore with IJ or R C code.  I 
didn't see any links to the programs on your web site.


Right, I never posted the Pascal source as I thought that 
was too far off the beaten path.
My Allen-Bradley control didn't have R arcs, I don't think, 
so my original programs all generated
the I and J words.  When I moved to EMC in about 1998, I 
found it was too picky about start and end radii so I 
changed it to use the R words.


If you want all my old Pascal programs, I could sent them.  
Also, I have some newer programs
that I have never put on my web site that do more advanced 
movements, like ramping down in Z.


Jon


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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 28 March 2021 12:52:53 John Dammeyer wrote:

> > From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> >
> > On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 14:50, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > > This is clear petg, but I simply cannot get it to stick to the
> > > glass.
> >
> > I covered my build plate with one of the sheets of PEI sold for the
> > purpose, and most things stick well.
> > An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
> > when adhesion isn't working.
> >
> > In fact, PETG has been sticking a bit too well recently.
>
> A friend has told me he's had PETG stick so well that it breaks off
> some of the glass build plate.  Seems a bit extreme but that's what
> he's reported.
>
I have such a damaged plate turned good side up on my ender 3.  Taught me 
to let it cool some more. :)

> John Dammeyer
>
>
>
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 28 March 2021 10:29:30 andy pugh wrote:

> On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 14:50, Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > This is clear petg, but I simply cannot get it to stick to the
> > glass.
>
> I covered my build plate with one of the sheets of PEI sold for the
> purpose, and most things stick well.

PEI? If you mean the black stuff shipped with overture filament thats too 
small for an ender 3, has an adhesive backing, I just pieced 2 of them 
together to get a glass cover that covered the spots it checks for bed 
leveling, and let it run on this file for about 15 minutes. I'd attach a 
pix ,but the camera battery was dead, again.

> An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
> when adhesion isn't working.

Paint store alky I assume, or is 91% good enough?

I'll give that a shot, after the battery is charged.  It stuck way too 
good doing a nozzle gap test, took most of an hour to dig the petg back 
off this stuff with a very sharp putty knife.

But start this bearing file, its 48 megs and 6.5 hours to render and its 
like the matt has been sprayed with a silicone film.  Zero adhesion even 
with the bed at 80C and the 234C nozzle jacked up to 255C.  Thats what 
made the mess I'll show a pix of. I found lookalike nozzles from 
microswiss and ordered 2, and this matt stuff in a size for this printer 
and ordered two 3-paks of those. Something's gotta work, but I've not 
found it, yet

Thanks Andy. Pix later.

> In fact, PETG has been sticking a bit too well recently.


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Dr. Nikolaus Klepp]

Anno domini 2021 Sun, 28 Mar 09:52:53 -0700
 John Dammeyer scripsit:
> > From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> > 
> > On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 14:50, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > 
> > > This is clear petg, but I simply cannot get it to stick to the glass.
> > 
> > I covered my build plate with one of the sheets of PEI sold for the
> > purpose, and most things stick well.
> > An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
> > when adhesion isn't working.
> > 
> > In fact, PETG has been sticking a bit too well recently.
> 
> A friend has told me he's had PETG stick so well that it breaks off some of 
> the glass build plate.  Seems a bit extreme but that's what he's reported.

I had the very same problem. My solution: I drip som ml alcohole or isoprop on 
the part and plate when the plate is still warm. It creeps between part 
and makes it pop up.

Nik

> 
> John Dammeyer
> 
> 
> 
> 
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-- 
Please do not email me anything that you are not comfortable also sharing with 
the NSA, CIA ...


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Re: [Emc-users] pushbuttons for "canned" G code?

[John Dammeyer]

> From: Jon Elson [mailto:el...@pico-systems.com]
> > I have a question that is probably directed at you.  A while back I 
> > converted a C command line program that creates a bore at an XY
> location using IJ G-codes.   I think you were the author of the C program but 
> I can't remember for sure.  


> Yes, this is clearly derived from my old Pascal source.  I
> still have this source for
> several programs in the original Pascal from 1998.  

> 
> But, I have now created a number of programs for the same
> purpose. These are all in c.
> So, I have versions for rectangular pockets, and rectangular
> "trepanning" where you just cut around the edge of the
> cutout, and then let the slug drop out.  Then it makes a
> finish pass to bring
> the cutout to final size.  I also have programs for round
> holes, "race track" ovals, and spot, drill, tap operations
> on grids and files of X,Y coordinates.  I also have a
> program to do rigid tapping with combo drill/taps from an
> X,Y list.  I also have a program for thread milling.
> 
> Jon

The code fragment I posted was originally in C.  I translated that to Pascal.  
I was just wondering if you were the author of the bore with IJ or R C code.  I 
didn't see any links to the programs on your web site.  

John




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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[John Dammeyer]

> From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com]
> 
> On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 14:50, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> 
> > This is clear petg, but I simply cannot get it to stick to the glass.
> 
> I covered my build plate with one of the sheets of PEI sold for the
> purpose, and most things stick well.
> An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
> when adhesion isn't working.
> 
> In fact, PETG has been sticking a bit too well recently.

A friend has told me he's had PETG stick so well that it breaks off some of the 
glass build plate.  Seems a bit extreme but that's what he's reported.

John Dammeyer




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Re: [Emc-users] pushbuttons for "canned" G code?

[Jon Elson]

On 03/27/2021 10:00 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:

Hi Jon,


-Original Message-

On 03/24/2021 10:18 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:


However this page I think shows how you create the G code command as a MDI 
command.
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Adding_Custom_MDI_Buttons


Thanks very much for the link!  I got it working with very
little trouble.  Push a button, it goes to the
desired location!

Thanks,

Jon

I have a question that is probably directed at you.  A while back I converted a 
C command line program that creates a bore at an XY location using IJ G-codes.  
 I think you were the author of the C program but I can't remember for sure.  
Someone as asked for the Lazarus Free Pascal source code which I have no 
problem making open source but I want to acknowledge where I got it from.  I 
clearly didn't write who gave me the code as comments and I can't find the 
original C code that I started with.

Here's a fragment of the pascal with the C code that wasn't changed just 
commented out.  Perhaps you or someone else will recognize it?


Yes, this is clearly derived from my old Pascal source.  I 
still have this source for
several programs in the original Pascal from 1998.  This 
stuff probably was used to generate
G-code for the Allen-Bradley control I used up to about that 
time.


But, I have now created a number of programs for the same 
purpose. These are all in c.
So, I have versions for rectangular pockets, and rectangular 
"trepanning" where you just cut around the edge of the 
cutout, and then let the slug drop out.  Then it makes a 
finish pass to bring
the cutout to final size.  I also have programs for round 
holes, "race track" ovals, and spot, drill, tap operations 
on grids and files of X,Y coordinates.  I also have a 
program to do rigid tapping with combo drill/taps from an 
X,Y list.  I also have a program for thread milling.


Jon

ramping down in Z, instead of just plunging in one spot.


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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[andy pugh]

On Sun, 28 Mar 2021 at 14:50, Gene Heskett  wrote:

> This is clear petg, but I simply cannot get it to stick to the glass.

I covered my build plate with one of the sheets of PEI sold for the
purpose, and most things stick well.
An occasional wipe with an alcohol-soaked rag helps on the occasions
when adhesion isn't working.

In fact, PETG has been sticking a bit too well recently.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912


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Re: [Emc-users] experimental bearings for harmonic drive

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 27 March 2021 12:12:43 Gene Heskett wrote:

> Greetings all;
>
> I'm in a try it mood this morning while I wait for it to warm up
> enough I can go move some dirt in the back yard to make a level place
> to put a slab of concrete for a small plastic shed I bought to keep my
> new last year, rider in out of the weather.
>
> So I've downloaded a bearing maker from thingiverse and have modified
> it to make a huge bearing that will fit around the outside of the
> moving spline.
>
> I had to cut the brim setting down to 2mm just to get it to fit the
> build plate width of this dremel printer, but it is building now, just
> to see if it will actually work.  Takes a bit over 6 hours.
>
> The next roadblock qestion I'll have to answer yet is will it fit
> inside the alu I bought for a housing. if it will, I'll make another
> somewhat smaller one for the output end of the shaft. Pix from
> openscad shrunk by gimp attached.
>
> Here, "ball" is false advertising, the races have a raised ridge in
> the center, which fits in the "handle" area in the middle of the
> dumbbell shaped bearing roller.
>
> If it doesn't work, shrug.  But its building now for the next 6+
> hours. And I've another roll of PETG near in case it uses all of the
> remaining stuff on this spool.
>
> It seems plate adhesion is better if the machine is kept warm for a
> while before its actually allowed to start the print, so I warmed it
> up, verified the level & generally killed ten minutes.  Seems to have
> worked.
>
> Translucent PETG, 234C nozzle, 77C bed, stick glue.
>
> Arthritic fingers crossed.
>
Didn't do any good, I've now tried about a dozen times to get it done, 
but its either skipping the ends of the rollers or ripping them out of 
the plate glue, first pass was the best, got about 3mm built, nozzle 
plugged.

Dremel apparently doesn't think the average user is to be trusted 
changing a nozzle, and they really went out of their way to make it 
difficult, so it took me about 4 hours to get it out, take it to the 
cookstove and burn it clean which took a while, then I dug into Dee's 
pincushion and found a sewing needle only 3/4" long, about 1/16" inch 
came out of the nozzle and I didn't push it, but I did use it to clean 
the ashes out of the back of the nozzle. wrapped it in teflon tape and 
put it back together but left the big cover off as it has nothing to do 
with the air flow.  Thats very well designed. And I don't think I 
damaged the nozzle. But I can't get into the 2nd layer of a build 
either.

This is clear petg, but I simply cannot get it to stick to the glass. At 
any speed or temperature including dremels recommended 80C for bed temp.
I get good adhesion on the ender 3. When it works, it works very well, 
but there is something odd about the glass plate.  It needs a heavy 
coat, double coated kidee glue stick, the purple stuff, to even think 
about sticking. but even that is failing with this build.

> Take care and stay well everybody.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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