Re: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from lowinductance/resistancemotors
Hi Michael, If you mean whether I removed the second of the 3 legs of the E to make a C shape core, no - I had not thought of that. That would indeed open up a much bigger hole for winding than that I used. I believe that my motor cabling is , seeing that I could barely fit 3 windings in the two slots of the E and still get the I back on. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Michael K Johnson via EV Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 6:47 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from lowinductance/resistancemotors Cor, How many turns did you wind? I'm assuming you removed the center portion of the EI in order to get a rectangular shape? Adam, Check http://www.geepglobal.com/locations/usa/north-carolina/ if you don't find anything high-power on craigslist. I suppose if you need more room for wire you could get two and discard the I sections as well as the center bars of the E sections and hold them together with the openings facing each other... On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 5:51 PM, Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: Adam, I added a (free) inductor by wrapping the motor wires around the core of the biggest microwave transformer that I could find. You can pick up old microwaves most days from Craigslist and the like for free. I occasionally get one, disassemble it if I can't get it to work to give to a needy friend, so I have a stash of components to fix the next one. Note that it is required to put a very thin spacer between the two core halves to avoid saturation and you need something (I used a very large hose clamp plus 1 or 2 steel wires cross-wise along the core) to keep the two halves together and aligned. Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Adam Chasen via EV Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 2:16 PM To: ev@lists.evdl.org Subject: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from low inductance/resistancemotors I recently purchased a 1980 Lectric Leopard (Renault 5 Le Car http://www.evalbum.com/190) with the following specifications: * original Presolite 6.7(?) series wound DC motor (presumably advanced for higher voltages) * 16kWh LiPo NMC packs in 24s4p arrangement for 90V nominal with 150A semiconductor on each of the 4 packs * Curtis 1231C controller with PB-6 2 weeks ago I heard a loud pop as I depressed the throttle out of a rolling stop/turn and my voltmeter read 0. Seemed like my semiconductor fuses did the job and all 4 were popped ($100 worth of fuses mind you). Unfortunately in my distressed mindset I bypassed the fuse on one pack and the car lurched a few inches as soon as I flipped my breaker and then stopped (I know, bad call). I disassembled the Curtis controller and discovered 2 gently blown mosfets and 1 catastrophic mosfet failure. I ordered replacement mosfets IXTH50N20. One trace on the power board looks like it overheated and there appears to be some damage (a resistor?) on the control board. There is possibly damage to a trace in an internal layer, but not sure if it is a 2 layer board and some surface heating caused some damage. I have since swapped the Curtis out for a 750A Logisystems which I am aware are plagued with (similar?) issues. These failures appear to be due to low resistance/low inductance motors causing a overcurrent condition. The logisystems doesn't provide for a 1.5kHz during startup. That is a bit concerning as that was the workaround for the Curtis. I have since measured the motor side of the controller with an inrush current sensor and measured 645A max even with being very careful to slowly depress the throttle. My concern centers around this happening again, especially on my larger 1989 BWM 535i with a directly coupled FB1-4001a motor. There are a few proposed solutions I read about and a few I came up with on my own which I am soliciting opinions on. A big unknown to me is how much resistance or inductance needs to be introduced to prevent this kind of inrush/runaway. One solution is to use the clutch in the Leopard to ensure there is no starting load on the motor. I still measured inrushes of 300A with no load! That will not work for my directly coupled 1989 BMW. I am curious if Lee Hart (with his Leopard) and others with series wound DC motors drive using the clutch. I have since modified my shifting behavior to much higher RPMs after reading some about his driving style. Another is to control the current with a large inductor. There was a lot
Re: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from low inductance/resistancemotors
On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 11:24 PM, Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net wrote: Yes, you need to remove the magnetic shunts. These are rectangular blocks of laminations tack-welded into the space between the primary and secondary. This restores the core to a normal E-I laminated stack. I wasn't referring to the shunts. If you remove both the primary and secondary in order to use the core to make an inductor, it would be hard to leave the shunts in place, at least in my experience... I meant the center bar of the E, leaving a C shape. Since the wire will be carrying 100s of amps, it needs to be very thick. It's hard to wind such thick wire. A better alternative is to use many smaller strands in parallel. Or, use a long strip of sheet copper flashing. Put a paper cuff around it, or tape or other insulation. The voltage per turn is low, so not much insulation is needed between turns. For my spot welder, I found it difficult enough to wind three turns of two parallel 8awg wires into the secondary space that I had cut out of a 1500W GE microwave oven transformer. That was before I found myself with leftover 4awg welding cable from my tractor conversion, so if I use that spot welder any more I'll probably change to the welding wire to be able to carry more current and not get as hot. ☺ ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 On 08/11/2014 04:11 PM, Roger Stockton via EV wrote: Most likely a mechanical issue with the ganged caps. Given that you water infrequently, you might want to check with your dealer to see if they will supply you with individual caps. The individual caps tend to seal the best, and I believe are available upon request for little or no charge (unless your dealer just can't be bothered to get them for you). I've used both individual caps and ganged caps, and I much prefer the ganged caps. You don't realize how MANY caps there are until you have to unscrew and re-screw them individually... Plus, it is easier to set down / pick up / not drop a set of 3 than three individuals. It seems to me that the ganged nature of the caps shouldn't make the pressure release valves in them any more or less good. (unless they are by different manufacturers from the individual caps) The benefit of individual caps is that you can trade out a single leaky cap without replacing two others at the same time. Jay -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux) iEYEARECAAYFAlPp8BAACgkQSWJjSgPNbM8RRwCfRWVIkWnF8qdHcdEwypk0LN8Z 2EIAmgJagKvo5cLxIof3/+122/4MWenU =dZf1 -END PGP SIGNATURE- ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] EVLN: SunPower, Bosch articulated VW e-Golf EV itching2 US sales pitch
http://cleantechnica.com/2014/08/06/solar-powered-volkswagen-e-golf-lands-us-shores/ Solar Powered Volkswagen e-Golf Lands On US Shores August 6th, 2014 by Tina Casey [image http://i0.wp.com/cleantechnica.com/files/2014/08/Volkswagen-e-Golf-with-solar-power-e1407327185255.jpg Volkswagen e-Golf (cropped) by motorblog.com. Volkswagen e-Golf with solar power ] Ever since Volkswagen created an all-electric version of its popular Golf model we’ve been itching for it to go on sale in the US, and now it’s coming later this year with solar bells on. Solar giant SunPower has just announced that it is hooking up with VW to provide e-Golf purchasers in the US with a turnkey solar installation that includes solar energy storage and management features. While that’s great news for US e-Golf buyers, it also opens up a whole ‘nother can of worms for US utility companies, which are already struggling to adapt to an energy market that is increasingly leaning on small scale, distributed renewable energy generation. A Solar Powered e-Golf Former presidential candidate Mitt Romney once joked that you can’t drive a car with a windmill on it. That may be, but electric vehicle batteries enable you to leave your windmill at home, or your solar panels, and just tote around the renewable energy they produce. That is why we feel that we can get away with calling the e-Golf a solar-powered EV. For that matter, not too long ago Ford introduced a solar powered concept car with built-in solar panels. SunPower And The Volkswagen e-Golf Hookup Leading solar company SunPower was once slagged by Fox News as a “failing” enterprise, but the company sure seems to be doing swimmingly. Aside from teaming SunPower with a yet another global car manufacturer (Ford would be the other one), the new e-Golf hookup pulls a whole team of A-listers together. Rounding out the team is Bosch, which has been tapped for home charging station installation and servicing, and ChargePoint, which will cover charging stations for the VW dealer network. According to SunPower, Bosch will offer its 240-volt Power Max® home charging station at a “highly competitive” price. What If You Don’t Want Solar Panels? Home solar charging is just part of the EV charging equation. Although the EV buyer and solar buyer markets overlap, there is a huge amount of room for potential e-Golf purchasers who don’t have access to on site solar EV charging or who don’t need it. Then of course there’s the issue of where to charge up when your battery runs low on the road. That’s where ChargePoint comes in. With ChargePoint on board, VW expects e-Golf owners in the US to have access more than 18,000 charging stations around the country in addition to locations at VW dealerships. ChargePoint now has more EV chargers in operation than there are McDonald’s, and in that regard it’s also worth noting that while the total number of EV chargers in the US has been skyrocketing, the retail gasoline industry has been consolidating. In other words, it’s getting more easy to find a conveniently located charging station, and less easy to find a gas station. More Green Goodies For e-Golf Buyers One interesting development in the EV market is the extent to which global auto manufacturers are leaning on green branding to differentiate their products from, say, Tesla Motor Company. BMW, for example, has touted a sustainable manufacturing and supply chain for its BMW i3 [EV] in addition to partnering with the German solar company SOLARWATT. VW is turning to the offset market for a helping hand, as part of its “holistic” approach as articulated by Oliver Schmidt of Volkswagen Group of America: Volkswagen feels it is important to look beyond the benefits of driving a vehicle without tailpipe emissions and to take a holistic approach to e-mobility. We now have the ability to offer offsets that approximate the emissions created from production, distribution and the initial 36,000 miles of use. SunPower’s announcement includes a couple of representative projects in Mendocino County in California that enable e-Golf buyers to achieve that 36,000 mile mark. Those are the Garcia River Forestry Project, aimed at preserving 24,000-acres of redwood forest, and a 16,000 land purchase that will go to improve conservation efforts in the Big River and Salmon Creek Forests. The e-Golf offsets also include a landfill project in Texas, which ... hooks VW up with the carbon offset specialist 3Degrees, which had more than 400 renewable energy projects in its stable as of last year, so it’s a safe bet that future e-Golf offsets will include clean energy, too. [© cleantechnica.com] For all EVLN posts use: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_pagenode=413529query=evlnsort=date http://www.idtechex.com/research/articles/ev-battery-and-supercapacitor-6759.asp EV Battery and Supercapacitor EV Battery and Supercapacitor
Re: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from low inductance/resistance motors
On 08/11/2014 08:37 PM, Chris Tromley via EV wrote: Also, I've never heard of anyone with an electric motor with a manual transmission or direct drive that chooses to use the clutch. That's generally considered an awkward work-around for a problem that should be fixed. On 12 Aug 2014 at 7:00, Jay Summet via EV responded: What is the problem, other than parasitic power loss? Having a clutch in your conversion makes for easier gear changes, if you need gear changes. (Keeping the transmission lets you use a less powerful motor and controller.) In this case, I thought Chris was talking about slipping the clutch for starting. I agree with him that this shouldn't really be necessary for an EV. After all, most don't idle. However, there was one particular ADC motor and Curtis controller combination some years ago in which the motor didn't have enough inductance for the controller's current limit to work right at very low speeds. Here's a marvelously understandable explanation of what was wrong, written some years back by Lee Hart : http://www.evdl.org/pages/hartcontroller.html The practical upshot of it was that starting up from a stop usually caused an uncomfortable lurch. The workaround for many folks who used this combination was to slip the clutch a bit when pulling out. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
Regen is much more to me than just regaining some range. It is a safety item
that I would use for dynamic braking. Since my physical size is large, I
physically fit better in a larger heavier vehicle (why I chose to have a
S-10 Blazer converted). So, regen would be quite useful to me in a heavier
EV.
Way back when I had press credentials, I was allowed to take production EVs
out for a spin (Honda EV+, Nissan Altra EV, Toyota RAV4-EV-gen1, GM EV1,
+more). Sometimes after signing my life away, a dealership or utility would
let me take an EV to shows and drive it back, so I got to enjoy them for
several hours out of the day.
The amount of regen each production EV I drove had varied because of the
amount allowed by design. Some too little, and others more, but never an
ability to select what I wanted (more than today's driving modes). That is,
until I went to EVS-20
http://brucedp03.150m.com/evs-20/
Where AC Propulsion had a converted VW as a plug-in-hybrid with an easy 60+
mile e-range
http://brucedp03.150m.com/evs-20/IMG_0285.jpg
http://brucedp03.150m.com/evs-20/IMG_0289.jpg
If you expand/zoom-in on the interior focusing on the front tray between the
seats
http://brucedp03.150m.com/evs-20/IMG_0286.jpg
AC Propulsion put a slider control to allow the driver to adjust the amount
of regen on the fly. It was really cool. I could see setting it to maximum
when mountain driving, and to less when creeping in traffic.
One of the advantages of building or having a converter build you an EV, is
you can make the EV fit your needs better. Like a custom build that you do
not have to worry about if you would lose warranty coverage on a production
EV, like if you made modifications on it.
[Sidebar: then again if you have a thick wallet, you can buy a Leaf EV like
the Stanford Student did to take the doors off and make into a high-speed
Electric golf cart. See
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-Doorless-Pratt-Leaf-EV-abandoned-on-city-street-for-months-tp4665972.html
EVLN: Doorless 'Pratt-Leaf' EV abandoned on city street for months
If you look at that news item's images, the owner really was without a care
if the EV got damaged or lost warranty coverage.
]
{brucedp.150m.com}
-
On Mon, Aug 11, 2014, at 12:49 PM, Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
As for regen, the efficiency improvement you get over DC will vary...
Typically the improvement is small, because you just don't spend
that much time braking. ... Learn to make use of coasting and
you can probably match the range improvement of regen.
Amen. With my CITY car I agonized over all kinds of designs for Regen
but
once I started driving it, I realized I hardly ever used the brakes.
(somewhat due to them being old and worn out in the first place)... but
still, after also driving a Prius and similarly avoiding brakes or regen,
the amount from regen is not worth it (I am going on the assumption that
regen in DC traction motors causes undue arcing of the comutator...)
-
--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Re-Conversion-advice-regen-tp4670938p4670962.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
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Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
Just type in your search engine: Flip Top Battery Vent Caps No need to remove any battery caps. Just open the top and water. Roland - Original Message - From: Jay Summet via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org To: Roger Stocktonmailto:rstock...@delta-q.com ; Electric Vehicle Discussion Listmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 4:44 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best? -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 On 08/11/2014 04:11 PM, Roger Stockton via EV wrote: Most likely a mechanical issue with the ganged caps. Given that you water infrequently, you might want to check with your dealer to see if they will supply you with individual caps. The individual caps tend to seal the best, and I believe are available upon request for little or no charge (unless your dealer just can't be bothered to get them for you). I've used both individual caps and ganged caps, and I much prefer the ganged caps. You don't realize how MANY caps there are until you have to unscrew and re-screw them individually... Plus, it is easier to set down / pick up / not drop a set of 3 than three individuals. It seems to me that the ganged nature of the caps shouldn't make the pressure release valves in them any more or less good. (unless they are by different manufacturers from the individual caps) The benefit of individual caps is that you can trade out a single leaky cap without replacing two others at the same time. Jay -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux) iEYEARECAAYFAlPp8BAACgkQSWJjSgPNbM8RRwCfRWVIkWnF8qdHcdEwypk0LN8Z 2EIAmgJagKvo5cLxIof3/+122/4MWenU =dZf1 -END PGP SIGNATURE- ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usubhttp://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.orghttp://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRAhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140812/7fccc6fc/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
Another option is to add in an automatic water refill system, similar to this: http://www.aquapro.net/overview_what.html Cheers! On 8/12/14, 10:54 AM, Roland via EV wrote: Just type in your search engine: Flip Top Battery Vent Caps No need to remove any battery caps. Just open the top and water. Roland - Original Message - From: Jay Summet via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org To: Roger Stocktonmailto:rstock...@delta-q.com ; Electric Vehicle Discussion Listmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 4:44 AM Subject: Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best? -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 On 08/11/2014 04:11 PM, Roger Stockton via EV wrote: Most likely a mechanical issue with the ganged caps. Given that you water infrequently, you might want to check with your dealer to see if they will supply you with individual caps. The individual caps tend to seal the best, and I believe are available upon request for little or no charge (unless your dealer just can't be bothered to get them for you). I've used both individual caps and ganged caps, and I much prefer the ganged caps. You don't realize how MANY caps there are until you have to unscrew and re-screw them individually... Plus, it is easier to set down / pick up / not drop a set of 3 than three individuals. It seems to me that the ganged nature of the caps shouldn't make the pressure release valves in them any more or less good. (unless they are by different manufacturers from the individual caps) The benefit of individual caps is that you can trade out a single leaky cap without replacing two others at the same time. Jay -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux) iEYEARECAAYFAlPp8BAACgkQSWJjSgPNbM8RRwCfRWVIkWnF8qdHcdEwypk0LN8Z 2EIAmgJagKvo5cLxIof3/+122/4MWenU =dZf1 -END PGP SIGNATURE- ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usubhttp://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.orghttp://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRAhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140812/7fccc6fc/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
I do have a brake vacuum pump with a sizeable reservoir (holding vacuum) and my truck can stop pretty well, though I often use the brakes so little and so gentle that from time to time I have to force myself to make a harder stop, just to keep the brakes from getting stuck. On my previous EV truck, the vacuum pump was drawing so much current on 12V and my battery so weak (the DC/DC went out) that I disabled the vacuum pump and simply pushed harder on the pedal. I could still make an emergency stop, I just had to *stand* on the pedal, but it still worked and I never had a collision in that vehicle. The problem the vacuum pump in that vehicle had was that there was no reservoir and the pump was not entirely up to keeping the brakes fully powered, so when braking with the vacuum pump the brakes first engaged too forceful, but then lost pressure and slowly faded so you had to keep pushing harder during the stop, while the start was too grabby. I noticed that in one incident where it had just freshly rained, I was driving on city streets doing maybe 35 and the light turned red close before me. I started to brake, but all I got was locked up wheels from the grabby brakes and I floated through the intersection, aquaplaning with locked brakes. Luckily it was empty. After that I disabled the pump and had no more incidents. I like the Prius braking and it is very similar to the Leaf - it gives you plenty of stopping power when planning ahead and only if a light unexpectedly changes or another surprise happens, do you need the friction brakes. Since regen can typically only give you around 50% back, it is better to anticipate with your speed long before even using the brakes. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Willie2 via EV Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:29 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice On 08/12/2014 09:12 AM, brucedp5 via EV wrote: Regen is much more to me than just regaining some range. It is a safety item that I would use for dynamic braking. Since my physical size is large, I physically fit better in a larger heavier vehicle (why I chose to have a S-10 Blazer converted). So, regen would be quite useful to me in a heavier EV. After driving my regenless conversion quite a distance, then driving a Leaf (with relatively poor regen) and then the Tesla (with really great regen), I can say that I MUCH prefer regen. Regen makes it easier and more convenient to drive. Aside from putting a little energy back in the battery. I doubt that the Tesla will ever need any brake work. That's amusing because the Tesla has these enormous brakes visible through the wheels. In my experience, one of the most common failures on conversions is the brake vacuum pump; my conversion spent perhaps 30% of it's life being driven without power for brakes. My wife refused to drive it in that condition. Reasonably so; it was quite exciting never knowing for sure that you could make an emergency stop. Though I did mange to avoid rear end collisions. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
unexpectedly changes or another surprise happens, do you need the friction brakes. Since regen can typically only give you around 50% back, it is better to anticipate with your speed long before even using the brakes. Regards, Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.comhttp://www.proxim.com/ Email: cwa...@proxim.commailto:cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.infohttp://www.cvandewater.info/ Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626 -Original Message- From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Willie2 via EV Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:29 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice On 08/12/2014 09:12 AM, brucedp5 via EV wrote: Regen is much more to me than just regaining some range. It is a safety item that I would use for dynamic braking. Since my physical size is large, I physically fit better in a larger heavier vehicle (why I chose to have a S-10 Blazer converted). So, regen would be quite useful to me in a heavier EV. After driving my regenless conversion quite a distance, then driving a Leaf (with relatively poor regen) and then the Tesla (with really great regen), I can say that I MUCH prefer regen. Regen makes it easier and more convenient to drive. Aside from putting a little energy back in the battery. I doubt that the Tesla will ever need any brake work. That's amusing because the Tesla has these enormous brakes visible through the wheels. In my experience, one of the most common failures on conversions is the brake vacuum pump; my conversion spent perhaps 30% of it's life being driven without power for brakes. My wife refused to drive it in that condition. Reasonably so; it was quite exciting never knowing for sure that you could make an emergency stop. Though I did mange to avoid rear end collisions. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usubhttp://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.orghttp://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRAhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usubhttp://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.orghttp://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRAhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140812/ce8fe58b/attachment.htm ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
I find it interesting that many of the Gotta have Regen! notes are from people that basically admit they screwed up the brake system on their DC vehicles, and want Regen so they have an alternate system. Doesn't matter what kind of power system you have. Your Brake system MUST work! If it's broke. Fix it. Period. My truck has Power Brakes and needs vacuum. I have a GOOD vacuum pump, AND a large reservoir, AND a big DC-DC. (and I CAN stop the truck just fine without the power assist.) -- Bobcats and Cougars, oh my! http://john.casadelgato.com/Pets ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
On 08/12/2014 05:09 PM, John Lussmyer via EV wrote: My truck has Power Brakes and needs vacuum. I have a GOOD vacuum pump, AND a large reservoir, AND a big DC-DC. (and I CAN stop the truck just fine without the power assist.) It sounds like you might not have many miles on your conversion? With 40k conversion miles, I can tell you that my experience is that keeping 12vdc is the most troublesome feature and the brake vacuum pump comes in second. Perhaps the controller is a distant 3rd. All in all, I could not expect my conversion to go more than a few thousand miles without major issues. Before I went to lithium, about 2009, lead batteries would top the list. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
[EVDL] Nothing but EV's in this CBS Si-Fi weekly Series
Hey Folks: Don't know if any one out there is a Si-Fi fan, but if you catch the new CBS series EXTANT with Holly Berry playing an astronaut who comes back from a SOLO mission pregnant !! ??? All the CARS in the series are either Tesla-S's, or BMW i3, and I think I even saw a Tesla-X in one scene.. Even had one scene with a Tesla-S with a RED-n-Blue police lite bar on the roof. COOL !! CBS, Wednesday evenings or past episodes on XFinity on Demand. -- Steven S Lough President EMERITUS Seattle EV Association 206 524 1351 WEB: www.seattleeva.org ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Flooded lead-acid ooopsie and how to correct best?
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 On 08/12/2014 08:57 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote: On 08/12/2014 02:39 PM, Peter C. Thompson via EV wrote: Another option is to add in an automatic water refill system, similar to this: http://www.aquapro.net/overview_what.html That does look nicebut man...one website I found sold the caps for $10 each! (20 batteries * 3 caps each = $300 + accessories...) Or rather $600 + accessories...pardon my math... Jay -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux) iEYEARECAAYFAlPquQEACgkQSWJjSgPNbM8v/ACfeN/p8pOVKm6KSNiOh3hosTF0 4IUAmQEjHI6GZnz73D73sJgKAwT0Ow8g =jHlF -END PGP SIGNATURE- ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
I have almost 30k miles on my conversion. I started with a vacuum pump and a big reservoir. When I added insulation to my batteries, I didn't have room for the reservoir, so I tried leaving it out. The car still drives (and stops) fine. I haven't had any problems with the vacuum pump. I believe I got it from EV America. My car is only essentially a Honda Civic, though, so it doesn't strain a vacuum pump much. Removing the reservoir did lead to much quicker pump down when starting the car. I think the hoses are acting as a reservoir. I can still hit the brakes once before the pump comes on. I have had some 12v problems, but mostly from parasitic loads draining the battery when parked for several weeks without use. I did have one time when the pack voltage into the DC-DC converter made intermittent contact and my 12v battery started to die. I fixed the loose connection and it has been fine since. I try to use only good quality Anderson PowerPole and Amp connectors for all connections. I'm also paranoid about all 12v and low-current pack connections. They are all crimped and soldered. I learned that from my fire chief working on a fire engine with electrical problems. When we were done, it didn't have intermittent connections any more. I don't know if you this is why my electrical components and connections have been reliable, but I'm happy enough with the results to keep doing it. Mike www.evalbum.com/2778 On August 12, 2014 4:31:14 PM MDT, Willie2 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote: On 08/12/2014 05:09 PM, John Lussmyer via EV wrote: My truck has Power Brakes and needs vacuum. I have a GOOD vacuum pump, AND a large reservoir, AND a big DC-DC. (and I CAN stop the truck just fine without the power assist.) It sounds like you might not have many miles on your conversion? With 40k conversion miles, I can tell you that my experience is that keeping 12vdc is the most troublesome feature and the brake vacuum pump comes in second. Perhaps the controller is a distant 3rd. All in all, I could not expect my conversion to go more than a few thousand miles without major issues. Before I went to lithium, about 2009, lead batteries would top the list. ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
Re: [EVDL] Regen : Conversion advice
On 12 Aug 2014 at 19:59, Mike Nickerson via EV wrote: I think the hoses are acting as a reservoir. That's the way Solectria did it. They wound several feet of vacuum hose round the pump before routing the end to the brake booster. It worked fine. It was almost elegant in its simplicity. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EVDL Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ___ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
