[h-cost] Re: o/t cat on a hot tin roof

Dear Bjarne . This time i want to try and make the hoop with padded panels along the top bones, in order to keep the tension of the side extensions nice and smooth for the skirts. I have looked very close after a fashion print of Galleries des Modes where a millinery lady is delivering goods,

[h-cost] re: fabric for robe a la francaise

Many thanks for all the feedback on appropriate fabric: I will hunt out some nice cotton for my own personal use but for the show (eek) will probably get something a bit more flash. I am indeed a slave to the shiny (taffeta) stuff! I found this UK supplier and they have one or two options that

[h-cost] fabric for robe a la francaise

Dear List I am about to make a final (i.e. not in calico/muslin) robe a la francaise: its primary purpose will be display for photographs and showing at wedding fairs etc., to try and persuade people that period clothing is lovely etc etc. Now I'm swithering about fabric - the two choices are

[h-cost] RE: prices on e-Bay

I agree, but when you look at the quality of what is /generally/ on sale on eBay, not everyone is going to be able to spot the difference between a beautifully researched, exquisitely sewn garment and something a teenager in Germany (or a room full of badly paid women in any part of the world)

[h-cost] Re: white cotton gloves

Have you tried the local chemist/pharmacy? I used to buy mine there when i had awful eczema - not incredibly cheap but a really useful thing indeed :-) Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm

[h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make to wear in the heat?

OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 'traditional' ;-) Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if

[h-cost] Re: OT Thai Fisherman trousers

Email me off list if you are interested. Sheridan P. Thanks - will do! They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged trousers, joined at the crotch and inside legs only. You then take the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks and eyes here. Pick up

[h-cost] VA - Italian interior books published in October

Just a heads-up: The VA will be publishing two books this October which look like they will contain a good few paintings of people within interiors from Renaissance Italy, to tie in with another exhibition. It does look like they also refer to dress and jewellery! At Home in Renaissance Italy

[h-cost] h-cost: subject lines reinventing the wheel

Fran wrote: My opinions are as valid as yours. Ditto, which is why I suggested simply skimming/deleting. To be honest, I can't see how anyone finds the second or two it takes to realise a message isn't worth reading a real and serious drain on their time (since I get the digest). If I'm too

[h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)

Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but the tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out I tend to use eyelets, laces, pins etc to close clothing for clients but this is a new problem and not one I can work around... Any suggestions? (polite ones

Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)

Thanks to all who replied on and off list: I am going to try the nail varnish - if no luck, then acrylic and if all fails, suggest the paperclip (which is a good idea for me personally but maybe not for my v. nice customer). Katherine (brain stumped by heat as much as anything complicated!)

[h-cost] re: h-cost was Subject Lines - Reinventing the Wheel public replies

You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to how _all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts interest them most, than to simply complain, argue about what is acceptable, have people quit the group, etc.? Having done a lot of reading and writing, I'm

[h-cost] Re: What do you do?

Dear Bjarne you've had lots of good advice from everyone here - I just wanted to add that when I had my last, bad bout of depression (following a period of very hard work, physical illness and not giving myself a break) I didn't enjoy anything, even my beloved singing. I sing everywhere, all

Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat

I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels. Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished.. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice coffe and a big cake :-) Bjarne

[h-cost] historical dressmaker in London

Suzi's work is exquisite - and accurate. Try refering your enquirer to her website and especially the FAQ page: http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/ A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright Are you tugging my

[h-cost] regency stays: seam construction ideas details about 1770s stays

Hello! I am at a crucial stage is making my regency stays: the main three layers (cotton, two of linen, which will then have another cotton layer as the lining) are all basted together and ready to be joined and have gussets inserted. I was really hoping that my visit to the museum today

[h-cost] Corset flossing

I have some lovely pictures of the kind of flossing that was used in the late 19th century, but they do not come with instructions. Can anyone point me at a website, or instructions please? Suzi Suzi - I've not found anything about how to actually do it on the web or indeed in any books.

[h-cost] 1630s suit again

Dear Cin There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume Museum... Naomi T. has written several books - do you remember exactly which one? I /may/ even try to swing a viewing, since I'm right here in Edinburgh :-) Your practical feedback is also great. I just find modern

[h-cost] 1630s suit - breech waist

Dear all I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by Bosse - doublet and breeches, since he already has a shirt and another friend is making his collar and cuffs. What I can't work out is the waist of the breeches: in Historical Costume in Detail, the development

[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 403

Thank you all so much - that is extremely useful and practical help :-) I've got PoF coming from the library so will draft from that, but definitely go for the elastic trick and hey, if it's not authentic enough then it ain't my wedgy or me sewing the hooks and bars back on... Looking forward

[h-cost] Jane Malcolm-Davies on Radio discussion programme.

Dear List Jane Malcolm Davies, co-author of Tudor Tailor was on a radio show in the UK yesterday, briefly discussing the book, the research behind the book and the origins of her passion for costume and particularly the Tudors. You can hear it again here by clicking listen to most recent

Re: [h-cost] about shaping bones in stays - rigiline

Dear Suzi, Bjarne and others who do stays I'm debating whether to use the plastic whalebone or rigilene: while the narrowness of the whalebone gives what looks to me like a very authentic appearance (with the narrow rows of stitching) it is a) a bit more expensive and b) more work. Rigilene

[h-cost] re: talk about tight lacing - historic corset info

Hello Chiara I looked into corseting but found rather quickly that there are no groups out there for those just wanting to know how to do it properly without all the fetish and what not connected to it. Chiara may I suggest you check out the yahoo 'historic corset' group? There are a few

[h-cost] Sourcing bizarre fabric..

Hello I wimped out on a costume today because I just didn't have the right fabric to make the 'underskirt' or sleeve lining of this dress (the green one Eowyn wears in LoTR: Two Towers) http://www.costumersguide.com/eowyn_green.shtml I've tried as many fabric places as I know (and contacted

[h-cost] Re: arsenic - napoleon and fine ladies and Costumers in Edinburgh

Hello (I'm catching up!) the random information my brain retains pinged at both of these notes 1. One theory is that the wallpaper in Napoleon's home contained arsenic which was released (as a vapour) by the damp weather, hence arsenic in his hair sample. It didn't actually kill him but made lots

[h-cost] Bishop's Lawn - linen or cotton?

This is probably a silly question :-) Could someone tell me if the Bishop's Lawn on sale from Hamon's in Jersey is terribly fine cotton or actual linen? I'm desperate to get some yummy thin linen for shifts etc., but don't want to spring for the shipping from the US (basically I've got to add

[h-cost] Re: Bishop's Lawn

As far as I remember it is fine cotton lawn. I have not come across anywhere in England which has very very fine lawn, although the fine lawn at the Cloth House is very fine, but not as closely woven as I would wish. It is £11.50 per metre 150 cm wide. The Cloth House - 47 and 98 Berwick

[h-cost] re: soir? d?hiver

Bjarne - thank you so much for these lovely photos. What a wonderful weekend you look to have had! Now I want to do 18th century!!! Katherine p.s. can you remind me of the name of the loose gown the gentleman is wearing along with the matching 'turban'? It's gone clean out of my head :-) A

[h-cost] Digest 146

Hello Does anyone still have digst 146? I've been having mail troubles again so would appreciate it if someone, anyone, could forward it to me. Cheers, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright

[h-cost] OT: work at home 'rituals'

Hello all as a fairly new costumer (for money) I am trying to establish a work-from-home pattern that doesn't involve quite so much tv - I know, I know... my brain is rotting as I type. I'm going to try having a special 'sewing uniform' - a work pinafore to cover my clothes - as a signal to my

[h-cost] re: embroidery dating - more info...

Dear Lorina [much snippage!] Thank you so much for all your help - I have spent a few hours researching orphrey bands and copes and can see how closely these resemble the 15C museum pieces on the web. Wow. I knew they were special but I think, after all, that they are extremely special and

[h-cost] Embroidery dating advice

Hi everyone! I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who think they have more of a clue than north european, possibly 17h century I'd be very happy to answer queries on them. More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite embroidered

[h-cost] VA 'In the Round' images

Hi all I just discovered this http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html on the VA website: you basically get a 360 view of selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy! Bjarne - there is very nice suit that reminded me

Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and

Thanks for all the help - Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums, there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps Deb, I didn't see your reply before it was included in a

[h-cost] h-cost digest 107

Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a message for me. Ta very much! Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright

[h-cost] Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query

Hello all I'm about to make my first crinoline, suitable for wearing with a smallish bustle underneath a late 1860s/early70s gown that I recently bought - it's in a bad way so I'm going to copy it as a pattern then try and restore it. Anyway, a lot of the original hoops that I've seen on museums

[h-cost] Re: the virgin queen

Watched Episode 2 last night. The men's a anachronistic breeches were more obvious this week (though I liked the tennis scenes), and, as someone commented, the women's skirts don't look as though they have enough support (perhaps the designers thought that farthingales would look as odd to

[h-cost] boning - reed or cable ties

Hi Wanda I would recommend you track down what I've heard called 'artificial whalebone' - it comes in several different widths, from 4mm up to 12mm, has no ridges (like ridgeline)and when you sit down, it doesn't stay bent up at the front like ridgeline does. You have be able to find it quite

[h-cost] New BBC Elizabethan drama - Virgin Queen

Just in case anyone over here /hasn't/ seen the trailer:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/virginqueen/costume.shtml Rather scant content on the costume but a description of the 'creative process' used by the designer. Quite why they think that an actor can't be sexy in accurate Elizabethan clothing

Re: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?

Dear Joannah - thanks for this reply. I never did see my original post so it must have been in a digest that skipped me. I don't know if anyone else replied so many apologies if it seems I've ignored any of your suggestions! :-) What I've actually done is recut the panel with the strap added on,

[h-cost] old digests no longer needed thanks

Thank you to Beth for sending me the digests (22-27). I noticed this morning that I got 31 and then sometime later 30, so summat weird is going on... Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright

[h-cost] please send me old digests

Hello could someone please send me (OFF LIST) digests 22 to 27 - if they have them? My in box has just not collected them for some reason, although I've had 28 and 29. It's weird to come into conversations half way through! many thanks, Katherine S. A positive attitude may not solve all of

[h-cost] missing messages?

Hello - is anyone else missing messages? I've not seen a message I posted two days ago and just got digest 26 after digest 24... Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright

[h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?

Hello all This is /kind/ of costume related - I've just had to design my first corset with straps for a lovely customer who is a) self-conscious and b) lop-sided, after a very dislocating shoulder finally got operated on... What can I say, it doesn't seem to matter how carefully I fit the strap,

[h-cost] Any other photo album site recommendations

Hi Sg I like fototopic.net - it's quite easy to organise and I've got loads of free space. Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright

[h-cost] Pride and Prejudice II

jean wrote:when Lizzie is in Derbyshire with her aunt and uncle, where she stands on a hilltop with her skirt blowing out behind her I was so beggging someone to come up and shove her off... I thought: Costumes - ok (suitably rumpled and certain people suitably unfashionable), hair - really

[h-cost] American museum sale notice

UNPRECEDENTED TEXTILE COSTUME SALE Since Thanksgiving, 2004, Charles A. Whitaker and Karen Augusta have been in consultation with the Denver Art Museum to plan one the most important textile and fashion collector events in recent memory, the de-accession of a large portion of the

[h-cost] soles for slippers? - OT

Hello all not terribly historic but I thought you'd be more likely to know about this. I'm looking for soles that could be used in making indoor slippers. I had an idea about making some pointy velvet slip ons for Christmas gifts and thought a thin covered sole would be sufficient. I've not

Re: [h-cost] A New Programme to watch out for - Elizabeth

Dear Suzi I concur about the falling standards of UK history programmes - they seem to be aimed at those with gnat-like attention spans and clips of 'reenactments' are repeated ad nauseam just in case you forgot what happened the last time the presenter mentioned Henry VIII... all of one minute

Re: [h-cost] ... Elizabeth : quotes from article designer info

Hi all I'm unable to track down an online copy of Mr Starkey's article in the British TV paper Radio Times, so thought it would be useful to give more info on what he actually wrote. He was flown over to Lithuania to watch filming - he's a nippy sweety historian who is pretty good at lecturing

[h-cost] re:effigy corst: reeds/bamboo for stiffening

Thank you all SO much - it's been very enlightening and highlighted the possible false economy of using overly pointy/stiff/scratchy boning. I had also forgotten the effigy corset was boned with baleen - and I think in terms of general experimentation I could go for zip ties with a relatively

Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?

Many thanks for all your help - Michaela, your research is awesome and I /love/ your Spanish gown. Wow. I forgot, also, that Bella had made a gown similar to this one! What can I say, brain addled by DIY and not enough sewing :-) I think on balance I'll go on your recommendation to make an 'under

[h-cost] Tales from Green Valley - a reality programme that works! (UK)

Dear list You may remember our dismay at the soap opera tactics of TV when producing the 'Pioneer House' series earlier this year/last year. Many said why don't they do a series with archaeologists/historians/etc. who WANT to do this and know their stuff? and I agreed. Someone, somewhere was

[h-cost] London troubles

Dear List folks London is indeed in trouble - so far four explosions, timed to cause a lot of pain and injury. It will be tomorrow before final death and casualty numbers are known since explosions took place within tunnels on the tube. Further controlled explosions have taken place but they