from:"WickedFrau"

Whoops - I got over zealous in deleting and lost the post about which I am
inquiring.  Someone in response the Monkey claw buttons subject said they
were weaving buttons on a loom?  Can you share more about that?

Thanks,

Saragrace

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 3:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons

On Apr 18, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Julie wrote:
 Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work.  There  
 are several sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting.  A Google  
 search should turn it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than  
 claw.  There's another name as well...Turkish something.

There are two different Monkey's Paw or Monkey's Fist knot.

There's the coil-style (as found by Sharon):
http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpawcoil.html
It can be formed around a core (as in the link above) or without a  
core (as in Sharon's link), and can produce a very nice ball either way.

Turk's Head knots are different.
http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/turkhed.html
The basic Turk's Head is a decorative wrap or fastening, made around  
a cylinder. Totally not what we're looking for here.

http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpaw.html
The Turk's Head style Monkey Paw is formed flat and then bent over  
a core. It gives a different look than the coil-style monkey's paw.

andy
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[h-cost] FW: [vintagefabrics] Fun finds

Thought some of you might be interested.  If not for this particular item,
there may be some other goodiesmight have to spend some time here!

Sg

-Original Message-
From: Sheryl Till [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 9:49 AM
To: Vintage Fabrics
Subject: [vintagefabrics] Re: Fun finds

Joan Kiplinger wrote:
 Leigh -- is that the correct url for the first one? I keep getting an 
 error that it's for website master only.

Hi Leigh,

Go to this url and then type the listing /Textile Fiber Atlas /into the 
search engine to get to the collection:

http://www.sil.si.edu/digitalcollections/HistoryCultureCollections/

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[h-cost] Forwarding posts, was [costumers_notes] Restoring old fabric

Gosh, I do this on a regular basis if I have permission of the person who
wrote the note...maybe I am missing the point; who is supposed to be the
offended person?  The recipients or the person who wrote the original note?

Confused in AZ,
Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 11:07 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] [Fwd: [costumers_notes] Restoring old fabric]

Jeanine Swick wrote:

 This is from a belly dance list I'm on.  Any suggestions for her?  I've 
 already posted never put anything like nail polish on vintage fabric.
Jeanine
^..^
J


I know you mean well, and I'm not trying to be bitchy, but isn't it just 
a little rude to take somebody else's message and crosspost it to a 
whole bunch of other lists?



Dawn


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[h-cost] Cool link

Thought some of you might be interested.  If not for this particular item,
there may be some other goodiesmight have to spend some time here!

 

Sg

 

-Original Message-

From: Sheryl Till [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 9:49 AM

To: Vintage Fabrics

Subject: [vintagefabrics] Re: Fun finds

 

Joan Kiplinger wrote:

 Leigh -- is that the correct url for the first one? I keep getting an 

 error that it's for website master only.

 

Hi Leigh,

 

Go to this url and then type the listing /Textile Fiber Atlas /into the
search engine to get to the collection:

 

http://www.sil.si.edu/digitalcollections/HistoryCultureCollections/

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RE: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes

2007-04-09 Thread WickedFrau

They didn't have opened toes either did they?  BTW - I hated the movie - I
thought it was completely boring.  I'm not in a position to comment on the
costume of the period...

Irrespective of all that, I think it is cool to see the influence on modern
dress.  Complete accuracy aside, it is a fun discovery when you find
something that may pass for a period shoe.

Sg 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 11:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes

Hi Saragrace,
I think the tip of the shoe is two round, it should be sharp pointed. Heal 
is fine, but not the tip.
Marie Antoinettes shoes was rediculous in the movie, i hated them 
all
But apart from that and some other bummers, i liked the movie a lot. 
Especially all the courtiers costumes, not Marie Antoinettes dresses wich 
was changed or modernised two much.

Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Movie influences on fashion - shoes


http://image.coldwatercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPGhttp://image.cold
watercreek.com/IMAGESFLL/H95057_013SL.JPG


I found this in the Coldwater Creek catalogue.  The online version doesn't 
have this description, but the catalogue says.



Marie Antoinette, the monarch who liked her hair big and her shoes 
embroidered, would have swooned over these.



Not a bad heel, I wonder if you could re-cover them ..



Sg
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[h-cost] The Attifet revisted

2007-04-05 Thread WickedFrau

Katherine Barich, who many of you probably know from other the Ren Tailor
and German Ren lists, has found a very interesting find!  She has given me
permission to repost this message.

 

  _  

- Original Message - 
From: Katherine Barich [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wheezul%40canby.com com
To: TheRenaissanceTailo mailto:TheRenaissanceTailor%40yahoogroups.com
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 12:49 AM
Subject: [TheRenTailor] The Attifet revisted

I hope I didn't send this twice...) - but for SG :)

I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, no 
less. I found the citation listed in Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen Age 
et de la Renaissance by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his 
description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but still 
am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on the 
oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my ideas

a bit more.

Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

Atifet - Cette coiffure sévère, portée par la veuve de Henri II et les 
dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe siècle, rehaussait par deux 
petites arcades les cotés du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile 
retombant sur les épaules.

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la lor 
acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall 
parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i 
capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto si 
vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. Didot.)

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the noble 
ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two small 
arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil falling 
to the shoulders.]

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they arrange a 
style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on either 
side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above the 
hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath the 
small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

Katherine 

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[h-cost] FW: The Attifet revisted

2007-04-05 Thread WickedFrau

 

 

Katherine Barich, who many of you probably know from other the Ren Tailor
and German Ren lists, has found a very interesting find!  She has given me
permission to repost this message.

 

Sg

 



- Original Message - 

From: Katherine Barich [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 12:49 AM

Subject: [TheRenTailor] The Attifet revisted

 

I hope I didn't send this twice...) - but for SG :)

 

I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, no 

less. I found the citation listed in Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen Age 

et de la Renaissance by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his 

description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but still 

am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on the 

oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my ideas


a bit more.

 

Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

 

Atifet - Cette coiffure sévère, portée par la veuve de Henri II et les 

dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe siècle, rehaussait par deux 

petites arcades les cotés du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile 

retombant sur les épaules.

 

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la lor 

acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall 

parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i 

capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto si 

vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. Didot.)

 

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the noble 

ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two small 

arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil falling 

to the shoulders.]

 

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they arrange a 

style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on either 

side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above the 

hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath the 

small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

 

Katherine 

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[h-cost] FW: The Attifet revisted

2007-04-03 Thread WickedFrau

Sorry if this is a repost, I dont see it showing up on the list.

Katherine Barich, who many of you probably know from other the Ren Tailor
and German Ren lists, has found a very interesting find!  She has given me
permission to repost this message.

Sg


- Original Message - 
From: Katherine Barich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 12:49 AM
Subject: [TheRenTailor] The Attifet revisted

I hope I didn't send this twice...) - but for SG :)

I have finally found a period citation to the word attifet - in Italian, no 
less. I found the citation listed in Glossaire Archeologique du Moyen Age 
et de la Renaissance by Victor Gay. Vecellio lists the term in his 
description of the noble women of Paris. I've translated for us, but still 
am learning Italian. I continue to work on finding more information on the 
oreillette and have had some success, but will wait until I firm up my ideas

a bit more.

Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

Atifet - Cette coiffure sévère, portée par la veuve de Henri II et les 
dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe siècle, rehaussait par deux 
petites arcades les cotés du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile 
retombant sur les épaules.

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la lor 
acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall 
parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i 
capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto si 
vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. Didot.)

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the noble 
ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two small 
arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil falling 
to the shoulders.]

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they arrange a 
style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on either 
side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above the 
hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath the 
small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

Katherine 


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[h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT

2007-04-02 Thread WickedFrau

Hi, this is OT, but I know you guys know a lot.  I have been asked by an 8th
grader who is over 6 feet tall to make a graduation dress.  She doesn't
really have any ideas of what she wants.  Do you know of a resource which
will tell what styles look best on tall girls?

 

Thanks!

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RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

2007-03-30 Thread WickedFrau

I thought it was in this book. I thumbed through about 5 times and never
managed to find it...thanks for the page number!

Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 7:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

 A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575 

The largest version of this that I have seen in a book is (perhaps 
necessarily) a detail and does not show the whole thing.  It cuts off 
the last three people standing on the left and everyone past the first 
two girls with the big round cakes on the right.  It's in The Horizon 
Book of the Elizabethan World by Lacey Baldwin Smith (New York: 
American Heritage Publishing Co., 1967), p. 146.  The image is about a 
foot square.

The original painting is at Hatfield House, for those who'd like to 
write the Marquess of Salisbury to inquire.

If anyone finds a cheaper source for posters, please let me know!  This 
is a fantastic image.

Melanie Schuessler

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RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

2007-03-30 Thread WickedFrau

Aha!  I will write the museum.  Those postcards are fabulous.  I got one of
Elizabeth Buxton, scanned it at high resolution, and was able to see lots of
details.  Thanks!

Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 1:43 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

At 03:19 30/03/2007, you wrote:
Anyone know what books have good reproductions of the following images:



Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg



A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575



http://www.allposters.com/-sp/A-Fete-at-Bermondsey-circa-1570-Posters_i1347
8
95_.htm

I was at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford a couple of weeks ago, and 
they sell a postcard of the Holbein painting. I know that there is 
also a postcard of the Fete at Bermondsey, and possibly a poster, but 
I forget which stately home owns it. They are always happy to post 
stuff, at least in my experience.

Suzi

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RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

2007-03-30 Thread WickedFrau

My goodness - this helps a lot!  Thank you!  I am contacting the Bridgeman
Art Library who has them in High resolution...who knows what they will cost.
Thank you so much for sharing...

Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Susan B. Farmer
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 8:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.



 WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and
white)
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg

 A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575


Saragrace, I don't remember off the top of my head what book I scanned  
these from, but here's my collection of Bermondsey images .  The  
first 4 images are 2Megabytes or better -- one is 3.6, I think.  The  
quality of the image wasn't very good -- the printing screen was  
overly visible.

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel1.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel2.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel3.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel4.jpg

Hope this helps!

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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RE: [h-cost] Pictoral source

2007-03-29 Thread WickedFrau

Hi Rebecca, have you considered purchasing fabric online?  Most of the
places now will do swatching.  I use the following all the time:

http://www.denverfabrics.com/
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/ (you do not have to be a member)
http://www.designerfabrics.to/shop/scripts/
Even if you don't want to buy like this, you could probably direct your mom
to some examples

I don't know of any books which will put it all together for your mom to
look at - especially in the area of fabric weaves and patterns.  I know
there is something which describes colors, but can't remember it right
now...QEW Unlocked maybe?  But a fairly safe rule is what colors you can get
from natural dyes.  We use this book to show folks in our group.

http://tinyurl.com/2tgpaz
http://www.amazon.com/Dyers-Garden-Growing-Natural-Fibers/dp/1883010071


Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:41 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Pictoral source

This may be an odd question, but is anyone aware of a
pictoral guide or compilation of fabric designs and
colors appropriate for Elizabethan era clothing?

I am having a horrible time finding fabric to make a
new jerkin for my son to wear this summer. I wanted to
have something in cream or off white that he could
wear under the burgundy/gold I made for last year. My
hope is to also find something green to make him a
second suit so he can trade off. 

I just spent the whole day running around to just
about every fabric store in Columbus, Ohio. Frustrated
is putting it mildly. Does no one carry anything but
quilting fabrics anymore? I knew things were bad in my
local shops, but we are so far out in the country I
really didn't expect too much. My local choices are
Wal-Mart and JoAnn's.

I want to ask my mother, who lives in the Washington,
DC area to go to E St. Fabrics for me, but I can't
explain what I want so that she can understand. If I
had a book with pictures she could look at it would
make life much easier. She is not comfortable with
looking at things on the web, so it would need to be a
print source.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rebecca Burch
Center Valley Farm
Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA

The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds
and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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RE: [h-cost] Dyed fur-history?

2006-05-10 Thread WickedFrau

Hey Rose, I would be most grateful for any pointers.  I am cc ing the
list again because I know sometimes things get missed and I might be
able to get more hits on the subject...

Thanks,

Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:36 AM
To: Sg
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dyed fur-history?

Hi Sg,

  I'm very behind on my e-mail.  But I may have some info on a back-up
disc that I need to go through anyway to look for some pictures.  As
soon as I have a few minutes I will see if I can find it.

Rose

 -- Original message --
From: WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Have you seen any references to dying fur, not just the leather, in 
 anything from 1100-1600?I've only seen one reference to fur of 
 purple, but I am not sure it was dyed. I figured they dyed leather, 
 hair, and cloth...you'd think someone would have thought of it
 
 Thanks,
 
 Sg
 
 I've asked this before (a few years ago) and not gotten any leads, but
I 
 know there are new people on the list whose experiences and reading 
 might have come across this.

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RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help

2006-05-09 Thread WickedFrau

Without going and checking for sure, as I recall, there were no boned
corsets in Eleanora's inventory.  No you don't need the unboned bodice
if you wear the corset et all.



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shoulderroll site...saragrace.us....was ....RE: [h-cost] Alternatives To Elizabethan Epaulettes

2006-05-05 Thread WickedFrau

Whoops...I guess I never let anyone know...my site is here:
www.saragrace.us

Same ole stuff unfortunately...life has been in my way...

Sg (aka WickedFrau)

-Original Message-
 
http://web.archive.org/web/20050209184231/www.saragrace.net/3A_SHLDR_ROL
L_by_sg.htm 
(the original site has disappeared but fortunately it's still available
via 
web archive)  and you can try various ways of decorating it such as
faked 

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First Qtr 16th century - was RE: [h-cost] New MCT Book was Update on Henry VIII book

2006-04-30 Thread WickedFrau

I missed the original post, sorry if I repeat what was said earlier.

Have you looked at Millia Davenport's book (s)?  -The Book of Costume-
I find it a good place to start when researching something new because
it gives a decent regional overview in one place.  You can pick it/them
(it come in a two volume set often) second hand very reasonably.

www.bookfinder.com


Sg

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of E House
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 5:48 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New MCT Book was Update on Henry VIII book

- Original Message - 

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Re: [h-cost] Has anyone heard of the new fabric?

2006-04-13 Thread WickedFrau

Milk???  Hmmm, now I have heard of textiles made from the cellulose in 
soy, but milk?  I can't remember right now which product, but either 
Silk soy milk, or Vitasoy has a little history of all the textile 
stuff that Henry Ford tried to use soy for.  Some of my spinner friends 
don't particularly like spinning with soy silk, but then I suppose it is 
all what you get used to and what you have access to. 


Funny, when I tried to google on soy silk, I got this:
Soy Silk and Ingeo Corn Fiber 
http://www.earthguild.com/products/spinning/spsoycor.htm Soy Silk is 
made of left-overs from the tofu manufacturing process. ... Blending 75% 
Soy Silk with 25% fine wool adds memory and bounce while maintaining 
...www.earthguild.com/products/spinning/spsoycor.htm - 4k -


But when I clicked on it, I couldn't find anything else about the 
Inego.I wonder how long it has been around?   Bummer that it can 
melt when it gets ironed...I wonder how bad it isthanks for sharing!


Sg


Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:




I found the link in a friend's blog - fabric made from corn. Really!



There are knitting yarns made of this already, and yarns made of 
milk.  In, I believe, the 1880s, the new fiber was one made of wood 
(Rayon).




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Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source

2006-04-12 Thread WickedFrau

Research the stuff on Rowenta - I have one for everyday ironing and it 
is okay, but as they age they spit etc.  The commercial ones that 
Greenberg and Hammer offer are awesome...pricey but awesome.  I have 
heard good things about the Euro-pro, but have not used those myself.

Kim Baird wrote:


I have a very nice Euro-Pro with separate reservoir. I got it at Jo-Anne
Fabrics. I've also seen them on line.

Kim 
 



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[h-cost] Missed the original post- was Photos

2006-04-12 Thread WickedFrau

Nancy, thank you so much for posting these pictures.  I am sorry I 
missed the original post.  Can you explain again the information on the 
white linen garment (from Chartres?)  and the last colored picture 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/127491641/?

Thanks,

Sg
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have posted my pictures of the statue with the bliaut from Angers to  
Flickr as well as some from Chartres, also with bliaut.  Additionally in  the 
Chartres set are pictures I took of the St. Louis shirt in Notre Dame.   There is 
also a set of pictures from the Costume Museum in Bath.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/maddnancyphotos/

Nancy
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[h-cost] Welt pocket wonders

2006-04-10 Thread WickedFrau

If you have ever been intimidated by making welt pockets, Threads issue 
122 has a solution.  I have tried many welt pocket techniques over the 
years, and this works beautifully.   It uses a silk organza facing and 
fabric glue (yes).  Try it, you'll like it!  It completely takes the 
mystery and challenge away!




Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Patterns of Fashion award

2006-04-09 Thread WickedFrau

The Costume Society offers a number of different awards/grants.  Some of 
which do not require being a student.


Sg
Robin Netherton wrote:


Someone mentioned this to me:

http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/newstuff/Awards/patterns.html

Deadline April 30, but there are so many people here who use these books,
the winning piece might be in an h-costumer's closet already.

The hitch: If I read this right you have to be a student in a
costume/fashion-related line of study (full or part time).

--Robin

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[h-cost] Turcopoliers-what they wore

2006-04-03 Thread WickedFrau

Hi all, I have been asked to do some research on what Turcopoliers wore 
in the 11th and 12th centuries.  I have gone through Worldcat, and of 
course nothing comes up about them directly.  I am sure I will have to 
start in some general arms/armour book and was wondering if anyone on 
the list could point me to a good one.


Turcopoliers were supposedly a mixed breed Greek/Turk or Saracen who 
sometimes fought for the crusaders.  When I looke in the OED to find out 
what they were, I was surprised to find that the term only went back as 
far as the 15th century...not sure how that could be, but.  Here is the 
the link to that.


http://tinyurl.com/gxjls

Thanks for any pointers!

Sg*
*
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Venetian research question - need help

2006-03-30 Thread WickedFrau


Lovely work Kathy, thank you.
Sg
Kathy Page wrote:


Hi Rachel, welcome to the list. :-)


http://outoftheattic.homeip.net/Venetian_Masks.html
 



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Re: [h-cost] The Red Dutch coat Was: Dutch 1660s fur jacket

2006-03-29 Thread WickedFrau

Whoops, now I see the photo on your home page, but can't find the one I 
was refereeing to.  You are standing in some sort of encampment with 
your little dutch cap on.  Are those the same?  Your stays almost look 
shiny...the other I thought looked sort of woolly.


Sg

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Re: [h-cost] Venetian Masking

2006-03-29 Thread WickedFrau



Masks and Masking in Medieval and Early Tudor England by Meg Twycross 
and Sarah Carpenter has a HUGE (30 pages long!) bibliography.  They 
constantly reference masking on the continent as a source because it 
took longer to catch on in England.  I would bet a confectionery that 
you could find what you are looking for there. 
I'd love to have a copy of your hand out if you are sharing!


Sg


raelee wrote:
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[h-cost] The Red Dutch coat Was: Dutch 1660s fur jacket

I like the furry one, but also love the red (wool?) one?  Reminds me, 
from the front, of Breughel type jackets, except with a placket.  Do you 
have a picture of it without the 'kerchief?  (also, if you could point 
me to a painting?)


Thanks,

Sg

Glad to see you back!
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Re: [h-cost] smell of spiral steel boning

I agree, I keep mine in a round tin.  It must have enough airflow  that 
I do not get this smell.  I have recently been amazed at what a good 
airing will do for costumes.  I have been working in a very smoky 
environment, and a few days airing has pretty much done the trick...more 
tenacious smells seem to be rid easily of with some febreeze.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Belive it or not, metal has a smell.
Providing your supplier has not done something you are not aware of, this is 
normal.


Give it a rub with a soft cloth then let it air,


-C.

 



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Re: [h-cost] Another Pregnant Elizabethan


Very nice!  Thank you.  I'd never seen that one!
Susan B. Farmer wrote:


Found another one

http://www.weissgallery.com/detail.asp?id=26category=current

 



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Re: [h-cost] Corset cutting suggestion

I'd stay away from anything modern for any period corset.  You just 
won't get the shape you want.  As a starting place, look at Drea's well 
used corset generator.
http://costume.dm.net/custompat/If you are new to this style, look 
carefully at the shapes in paintings for comparisons to later styles.  
Think inverted cone.  Flat front, not a curve in sight!  Compare this 
to (some of)  the more rounded front of the German silhouette at the 
same time.  If you have Patterns Of Fashion, look at the Pfalzgrafin 
corset for comparison.  Her corset was not boned across the breasts.  
Makes a huge difference!


In the end a sloper also called a toile is exactly what you need, just 
a different starting point!  In the case of a corset toile, you need 
something a little heavier than calico/muslin to work with.


Sg

rwfranz wrote:

A sloper is the basic pattern from which other patterns are designed. 
(http://www.sew-whats-new.com/sewinglessons/sloper.shtml) It's also 
sometimes called the basic body block.


A



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Re: [h-cost] Sourcing bizarre fabric..

Katherine, have you tried any of the fabric finder, or fabric sourcing 
sites?  I have had particular luck with this group 
http://www.fabrics.net/swatch/ , but also just happened to google on 
this site-I hadn't asked for green leaves, but look what came up!


http://www.prqc.com/fabric_finder.htm
Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan doublets, hooks and eyes at waist

Wish I could remember where I read this, but there was a discourse by 
someone (Samuel Pepy's perhaps?) on how, the tailors were in some kind 
of conspiracy (tongue in cheek) of switching from points to hook and 
eyes which didn't free men up from having to have some one dress them.


Sg

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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

Dang!  How'd I miss this?!  I'll be signing up.   I can only imagine 
what you all a have been talking about since 1991! 
Sg


E House wrote:



Yes, there is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/
I'm the list owner, and there's no fetish stuff allowed!

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] ladys 18th century tangled garden

2006-03-23 Thread WickedFrau

Pleats or gathers where?  Sleeves or peplum?  Gathers for the sleeves, 
pleats for the peplum is my vote!

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Sg



Who wishes she had a boyfriend like Bjarne!

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Re: [h-cost] tangled garden

2006-03-22 Thread WickedFrau

Sounds lovely.  The subject line certainly conjured up wonderful 
images.  Yep, Dharma is where I would start.  I have had great success 
in combining colors to get something they don't have off the 
shelf. Keep us posted!


Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Hi,
Perhaps Dharma Trading have, i should have looked before asking! sorry





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Re: [h-cost] this list

2006-03-20 Thread WickedFrau

Hi Julie, you can post pictures here if you like.  You can create a new 
ablum.  I sure wish someone would use it!


http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?username=hcostume
The userid is: indra2006


Sg

Julie wrote:

Maybe I'm just too used to the Yahoo groups, but does this list have a 
files, photos  links section?

Julie

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Re: [h-cost] Costumers in Edinburgh?

2006-03-20 Thread WickedFrau

Oh my, oh my...you have been busy...love the prince and Thumbelina.  
Thanks for sharing.
Sg 



http://www.kipar.org/salacious-historian/sewingprojects.html



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[h-cost] How much I love this list :Was: to dye for

2006-03-18 Thread WickedFrau

I know this may sound kind of sappy, but I really love this list. The 
topics and tangents we talk about are just wonderful. 
I am an engineer and I work with some pretty boring people.  You guys 
keep my creative juices alive.


Thanks!

Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

Not a reply to the previous mail about books, but the head`er made me 
think about a story i heard about poison dyes.
In about 1840ies i heard there was a new invention with a very bright 
green colour. They made wall hangings with this dyed silks and also it 
became a very

Bjarne



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Re: [h-cost] German water--attn dyers--and chemists!

2006-03-17 Thread WickedFrau

Very interesting.  I live in an area where the water is over fluoridated 
(is that a word?)  People moving into new developments have to sign a 
release that they understand the water is not good for children 
(discolors teeth).  I have not experienced any excessive problem with 
bleeding.  We are talking about several washings after the dying right?  
I have one gown I have had problems with, but it is a cotton/linen blend 
and I used procion dyes.  The deep color has just not held up and does 
transfer to other clothing if left moist.  I use those color catchers, 
but if the spun items sit for any length of time, it transfers.  My 
linen and linen rayon blends, and silks dye up beautifully.  100% cotton 
does not dye as deeply. 

I use all the recommended chemicals, synthropol to wash after a 
detergent wash, casoline to distribute, soda ash to set, and fixative in 
a final rinse with softener


Hmm.  As recall there is are a few chemists on the list..they might know 
more...


Sg

E House wrote:

One of my customers, an American who lives in Germany, recently 
mentioned something that I'd never heard before: for some reason, a 
lot of dyes bleed in t dye-setting properties on at least some fibers. 
(The fabrics I'll be using are linen and silk.)


-E House
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Toga trim in Gladiator

2006-03-17 Thread WickedFrau


Ooooh, these look like fun! Thanks

Sg
Joannah Hansen wrote:



Admittedly, this came from fiction, but the author is pretty careful about her 
research - I *think* I read, in passing, that the chariot team supporters did 
show their support by wearing their their teams' colours, at least at the 
races. The books are by Lindsay Davis, and a great favourite of my husband and 
I - the series makes Rome circa AD70 come very alive.

This is the series -

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/stores/series/-/504/ref=pd_sr_ec_ser_b/104-8506690-0966322

Joannah

~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~




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EQ-Re: [h-cost] Issue 230? Equestrian, et al

2006-03-15 Thread WickedFrau


What is issue 230? Whad' I miss?
Kahlara wrote:

 
 It has been a busy week, but finally able to get back to the costume list. Am I the only one that did not recieve issue 230?
  
 Attended a class on equestrian barding this weekend, and one of the things that came up in discussion was the aside vs. astride issue.





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[h-cost] Toga trim in Gladiator..

2006-03-14 Thread WickedFrau

I was rewatching Gladiators this weekend and wondered if there were some 
color system to the toga trims.  In some scenes there seemed to be 
groups of black trim, red and I think blueanyone aware of any 
historical information for this?

Thanks,

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises

Hi Roscelin, this depends a lot on the style...can you show us a picture 
of what you are trying to make?


Sg
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Is there anywhere I can see how this is done?  This is the first time I've 
heard about this technique.  I was always under the belief that drawstrings 
were used in the neckline and cuffs.  Since I have to make myself some new 
chemises this is a good time to learn the new technique (new to me).

Roscelin
 



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Re: [h-cost] Trying to find original source


Boogers, link didn't work..
Kathy Page wrote:


I'm sprucing up a pair of kid gloves to look more
elizabethan, and have decided this is what I want them
to look like:
http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/hand.jpg
(hopefully tht link works, it said it uploaded just
 



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[h-cost] EQ-[Fwd: Re: Historic Horse Yahoo group]-OT this list for other than Historic Horse Costuming discussions

Hi all, for those of you who expressed an interest in an Other Than 
Costuming discussion place for historical equine discussions, here is 
an option.  I figured I would try it out.  I still intend to post my 
costume discussions to the h-costume list, but when the topic starts to 
diverge to more horsey things...we can go here.


Sg

 Original Message 
Subject:Re: Historic Horse Yahoo group
Date:   Mon, 13 Mar 2006 09:25:26 -0800 (PST)
From:   Diana Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Hello!

I would be very open for folks joining in.  Right now my list is very 
quiet and I would enjoy having more people here!  The only thing that I 
would like to stay away from is people selling their horses through the 
public posting.  Information about horse-related costumes of a historic 
nature would be fantasitc!  I have a few people on the list who belong 
to other historic interest lists who, I'm am sure, wouldn't mind more 
folks coming in as well!


Please feel free to have people sign up and I will approve as soon as I can!
-GM-

*/WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:

   Hi, I and several others who belong to the Historic Costume List, were
   considering starting a historic equine list on Yahoo. But I see that
   you have one with similar interests and was wondering if we might just
   tag along. In general we would try to keep our horse and people
   costuming discussions on the latter list because other members have
   expressed interest in keeping them there even if they aren't
   focusing on
   that. But we horsey people, would also like to discuss more general
   historic horse aspects elsewhere and have a place to exchange pictures
   of our horses. If this is amenable to you, please let me know.
   Otherwise we will be happy to start another listI was thinking The
   Historic Equestrian. Thanks,

   Saragrace Knauf




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[h-cost] Title: Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England

Saw this on my way to look at the Spanish Medieval book Janet 
recommended...thought some of you might be interested.


Sg

Item Number: 47054
*Title: Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England*
Author: RIBEIRO, AILEEN
*Price: $65.00*
ISBN: 0300109997
Description: New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2006. 29cm., 
cloth, 387pp., 224 illus., ca. 80 in color. (Focusing on the rich visual 
culture of the seventeenth century, including portraits, engravings, 
fashion plates, and sculpture, and on literary sources—poetry, drama, 
essays, sermons—the distinguished historian of dress Aileen Ribeiro 
creates a fascinating account of Stuart dress and how it both reflected 
and influenced society. Supported by a wealth of illustrative images, 
she explores such varied themes as court costumes, the masque, the ways 
in which political and religious ideologies could be expressed in dress, 
and the importance of London as a fashion center. This beautiful book is 
an indispensable and authoritative account of what people wore and how 
it related to Stuart England’s cultural climate).




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EQ-Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costumers and other hobbies - sort of OT

Wow! What an interesting observation! I too have horses and just
recently bought a new one just so I could dress her and myself up! My
other horses are all Quarter horses, and they just don't suit my
costuming tastes. I had a side saddle made about 10 years ago for this
purpose also, but for Annettes reasons, have not gotten around to using
if to my cosutming ends. I would LOVE to have discussion with others of
like mind. Perhaps we could keep our costuming discussions on this list
because there are such good resources (and I myself love to read other's
posts even if they are outside my current focus.). What if we
precededed each of our equestrian posts with an EQ-as I have done, and
create a Yahoo group for all the other non-costume related discussions.
(I'd love to shary horse stories, pictures etc.)

Yeah!

Sg
Kahlara wrote:

Over the years I have found that most of my creative associations seem to have
at least two or three similarities in other areas as well as the shared
interest in which we first became aquainted.

I have noticed several list members make reference to horses and riding. I ride and own horses also. I also have made various articles of riding clothing and costumes for shows over the years (to keep it close to list topic).

Although each individual is different, there seems to be a range of interests that most creative people share to one degree or another. For my part...

horses, cats (or pets in general), costuming, reading, theatre, good movies, classical and traditional music, gardening, other artistically creative endeavors such as panting or some type of crafting, etc. And of course, the list always exceeds the amount of time available to pursue said interests.

Just a little generalizing. ;-)

Annette M

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PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail.
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[h-cost] Naked Children in the Grass-OT

As you will be able to quickly tell, the only thing costume related 
about this dish is it's nameof course, there too, there is something 
lacking.  This is an old Dutch recipe of lima  green beans.  I just 
think the name is hilarious, and was wondering if any of you might know 
how far back it goes??  I know I first heard of it back in the 70's  
And for those of you wondering, it is actually very good.  I am not what 
you would call a Lima bean fan...and I could it bowls of this.


Feel free to respond off list if you feel the topic is too off!

Sg
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[h-cost] Re: EQ-Naggers and Clothes-was Equestrian costumers....

My mare is an Andalusian/Arab cross and I am about ready to breed her to 
a full Andalusian.  I am not able to afford the current pure Andy 
breed, this is the closest I will be able to come.  My dream is to be 
able to make many different costumes to ride her with.  (I want an 
orange/black [which looks brown] shot taffeta Victorian, side-saddle 
habit  for sure).  My girlfriend has offered to help me make a complete 
hand Inkled tubular breast collar crupper, etc. for a more Arabick-y 
style.  I have fiddled with caprisons, making a chair sidesaddle etc.  
I am all over the place in time and country in my dreams...check this 
site out...http://www.kreml.ru/en/main/collection/museum/harness/.  (For 
the non-nagger costumer, there are some very cool regular costumes too.) 

The closest I have come to riding in costume is at some local SCA events 
in a linen tunic, schooling tights, and  a pair of Ariat Heritage 
packers!   Pretty sad considering my collection of fabrics and ideas.


Love this thread...p.s. I am in the middle of cooking a large historic 
meal today...but will post pictures of my naggers laterThey are on 
my webpage somewhere already, but I can't find them!


Sg

Susan Data-Samtak wrote:

I am also interested in other people's areas of interest in costumes, 
if only because the people on this list are so knowledgeable and 
willing to share.  I'm sure that I will NEVER attain the fabric 
related skills of many people on this list, but it is so much fun to 
see what others have accomplished.  Brightens up my day with these 
beautiful things


Sg- what type of horse did you buy and what type of costuming are you 
looking to reproduce?


I would also like to share horse stories with you folks.

Susan



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Re: [h-cost] Ruff

One of my ruffs is made from silk organza, and lace, it was pretty stiff 
before I starched it.  It is actually easier to work with IMHO than 
something soft and flimsy

Having done it both ways I prefer something with substance.

Sg

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Re: [h-cost] soiré d´hiver

2006-03-06 Thread WickedFrau

The setting is just aweson. It looks like so much funif you get 
time, could you link the pictures to their larger form?  There are some 
details that would be fun to look at.  Speaking of which what is on the 
man's pony-tail in the picture: last column, second row.  Is it wrapped 
in ribbon?  Is this something they would have done?


Thanks, for sharing.
Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

I was so fortunate, to get an invitation for a lovely winter gathering 
at Reine des Centfeuilles and her family.

The gathering was from friday evening, til sunday noon.
It was lovely to meet some of the Lumieres german members.
The generousity of Maurita her family is endless, and i was guest in 
their house all 3 days. Highlight of it all was my first sleap in a 
real alcove. Mauritia and Kim had made everything so lovely, and their 
cooking was deliscious.

Here i send you a link for some pictures of the event.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/soiredhiver.htm
I want to thank the whole family for their warmth and generousity. I 
got many lovely memories from that week end. I am in endless gratitute 
to them all.


Christian Ludvig de Vollanges..







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] Tee Hee

2006-03-06 Thread WickedFrau

For whatever reason, it doesn't cause any discomfort.  It is a very 
comfortable brait does cause an odd shape for the modern taste though!


Land of Oz wrote:

I would think the ugly seam that runs right across the nipple is 
going to cause you some serious discomfort if you ride for very long 
at any faster than a walk!


Denise



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[h-cost] Tee Hee-Was: Non-Elizabethan Tudor Corset a Myth! (was Princess Elizabeth)

2006-03-04 Thread WickedFrau

Along these thoughts I had a funny experience a few weeks ago.  I needed 
to purchase a new sport bra for use while riding horses.  I had heard 
that the Enell bras *http://tinyurl.com/hgbfl *were the best.  When I 
opened the package, my first thought was-jeez, I could have made this.  
Not sure what I was expecting, and yes,  I should have known by the 
pictures, but they are basically a snug fitting bodice!  Were it not for 
the ugly seam that runs right across the nipple, I could practically use 
it under some of my earlier garments. 


Ahhh, how fashion and function runs in a great circle.

Sg :-P
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Re: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband

2006-02-23 Thread WickedFrau

I have this exact problem with my hubby too.  Here is what I have 
proposed to him and he seems close to accepting it.  He has even 
considered tights as long as his coat comes over his hips. 

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/bruegel/pieter_e/painting/children/  
(This by Pieter the Elder)


Look up in the right hand corner of the painting and you will see a boy 
with a stick raised over his head.  He has on regular pants!  If you 
look around the painting you will see varying degrees of pants from 
tights on to the afore mentioned ones.  This garb is easy to make and 
doesn't cost a fortune.  Also, there is a great variety of overwear.  If 
you look through more of his (don't forget his relatives!)  paintings 
you will see great detail and even more choices. 

Since I also ride at events I have adopted the men's skirted overcoat 
and riding tights.  Covers my butt!


I have also offered a cloak, which he can wear and be incognito!

Sg

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[h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric

2006-02-21 Thread WickedFrau

After a chilly first night at Estrella this year, I was able to purchase 
a pair of Merino wool socks at merchants row to keep my tootsies warm 
for the following nights.  They are soft and not at all itchy.  I began 
to think how lovely it would be to have an entire nightie made from such 
a wool.  I have started looking on the internet and haven't come up with 
much.  Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really 
soft and not itchy?


Thanks,

Sg


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Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt

2006-02-20 Thread WickedFrau



kelly grant wrote:

I like how Ninya uses the short bones down the centrefront edges 
though, and will try that out as mine are collapsing at the moment.  I 
also need to make yet another bum roll, mine *still* isn't large enough!


Something we discovered in the process of making the bumroll is that you 
can forsake a very large one (if you read my notes you will see it isn't 
really necessary) provided you stuff it very hard and make use of the 
bumpad underneath it.  I stuff mine the way I stuff cloth sculptured 
dolls.  Very firm-I see many bumrolls that are really squishyjust 
doesn't work as well. 



If I can talk my spousal unit into some web work this evening, there 
will be more photos up soon.  I know how to make web pages, but this 
is his thing, so I have to wait for him ;-)


Looking forward to it!.

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Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt

2006-02-17 Thread WickedFrau

Yeah!  I am so glad to see someone else doing these types of gowns.  In 
doing A Suitable Gown for Her Majesty  *http://tinyurl.com/87qbb *
we also chose to put the corset front under the farthingale.  Now the 
front of this farthingale is flat.  In my research I found some wheels 
depicted as being rather sharply tillted to the back but more often they 
were not, which made me wonder if it wasn't the artists way of trying to 
show what was going on behind in portraiture.   Many of the effigies 
with smaller wheels are pretty flat, which gives a prettty good 3D idea 
of what they looked like. Ninya Mikhalia on the other hand looks like 
she places most of her's on the outside.   
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/wheelfarthingales.html 

I didn't care much for Hunisett's wheel construction.  I made several 
up, but chose to go with Ninya's way of doing them.  Unfortunaely when 
doing a flat front the tension isn't great enough to keep the fabric 
nice and taut, so I chose to cover the cotuil with a little batting and 
the silk. 


I look forward to seeing more of your work!

Sg



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[h-cost] Dress Form Class: was williamsburg suit

Clearly I won't be able to make the class, but I am interested, if you 
have a little information, about what materials will be used and what 
the process is.

I wonder if it isn't like the kits you can buy over here with a video...

Sg

Tania Gruning wrote:


Hi Bjarne.
 My sewing teacher Kia is doing a dressform course in june. It is quite 
expensive though, but the form will be an exact copy of yourself. The course 
itself is around 3000 kr and the materials are around 5-700. My mother has one 
and it is wonderful.
  
 Tania
 



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[h-cost] Bjarnes old embroidered cuffs..was : thanks for your replyes of my embroideries and prices

So, can you recycle your cuffs into something like a pillow, or little 
purse? 


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Re: [h-cost] History of the Parasol

Thank you for putting this together.  I was aware of the Max Von Bohen 
source, but not of some of the others.  There are so many silly truths 
being strutted about.it is a good lesson for newbies...do your own 
research. 


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Re: [h-cost] Book Alert - Inventories of Henry VIII

Bad, Bad, Bad Wanda!  Thank you! 
Sg

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[h-cost] Danish Noble extant wardrobe inventories

2006-02-01 Thread WickedFrau


Tania, you might want to ask Bjarne...he'd probably know.
Sg
Tania Gruning wrote:


   Hiya all.
  
 I am wondering if anyone know of any danish noble/royal inventories that are intact? We have had some major royal castle burnings, but could be they were stored elsewhere. I am especially looking for the 16'th century.
  
 Tania




-
Yahoo! Autos. Looking for a sweet ride? Get pricing, reviews,  more on new and 
used cars.
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Re: [h-cost] re: costume experts

2006-02-01 Thread WickedFrau

I would consider Robert  Trump to be an expert BTW.  He is with the St. 
Louis Opera still I believe.


Sg
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[h-cost] Paying for color copies: was 16th Century Nationality Dress Characteristics...long

2006-02-01 Thread WickedFrau




Just out of curiousity, how much did the color copy cost?  Always
looking for cool color pictures -- especially of embroidery!


I have paid up to $100 for a color reprint.  That was of a painting not 
currently on exhibit (in America) , and supposedly the museum did not 
have a color copy (which I think was probably BS).  I have paid £10 for 
a black and white reprint, and the least I have paid is for a color 
transparency is  £35.  The latter was a rental and is like a large 
slide.  Shipping and handling is extra and is about £6 in each of those 
cases.  I was allowed to make a copy for the purposes of the slide show.


The biggest hindrance is having a legitimate reason for wanting one.  
Fortunately I was in graduate school this past year doing research so I 
didn't have to fib about that, and since I was doing a presentation at 
the Phoenix Art Museum, they seemed to accept that.  But I had to 
explain all that.  I wouldn't let it inhibit you...all they can say is 
no. Surprisingly enough, if you can find a postcard of the painting 
those scan very well,  (I think the detail on a least one I got was 
better than some of the detail on the transparencies I have received.) 
and I have had some places send those to me gratis...they even paid 
postage!  I asked for a more detailed, higher resolution for a painting 
on IMAREAL and they sent that to me, no questions asked, on a CD!


Good point about Anguissolathat would be a good comparison to see if 
I could find a match..  I have responded to the list since I had 
multiple inquiries about the same thing


Sg







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Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories

2006-01-31 Thread WickedFrau


Something which continues to exist, that has escaped the ravages of time.
(I just assumed you had made a little typo there..:)

Sg
Becky wrote:


I've seen the word Exant. What does this mean in costume terms?
- Original Message - From: Robin Netherton 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] extant wardrobe inventories



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Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?

2006-01-30 Thread WickedFrau

Speaking of which...what makes an expert?  Someone who is already 
published?  Someone who has a degree in history,  research, costuming, 
or?  Someone who has access to primary sources?I am reminded of 
someone who considered themselves (grammatically incorrect, but gender 
non-specific) an expert,  but wrote off Mairead Dunlevy's book, Dress in 
Ireland, because she was just a ceramics/pottery expert writing about 
costume???


Sorry if this offends anyone...not my intention.

Sg

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[h-cost] [Fwd: 16th Century Nationality Dress Characteristics...long]

2006-01-30 Thread WickedFrau

Sorry, I had sent this to the group owner on accident. (Sheepish grin)

 Original Message 
Subject:16th Century Nationality Dress Characteristics...long
Date:   Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:04:34 -0700
From:   WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 	[EMAIL PROTECTED], TheRenaissanceTailor 
[EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sorry for the cross posts all, but last week someone posted this picture 
as part of another discussion and I was curious on your thoughts. 
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg 
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/fmlac10526_08a.jpg (Grab your copy now 
folks while it is still up. In an attempt to find out more information 
from the Kunsthistorisches Museum, I inadvertently drew the attention of 
the PhotoMarburg staff to the its availability online, only to find out 
that they don't own the rights to the paintingit may disappear soon)

This is also a painting by the same artist, Alonso Sanchez Coello. 
http://www.saragrace.net/images/Misc/MahoiteredSleeves/SPoptimized.jpg 
It appears in Modes and Manners by Max Von Boehn as a portrait of Mary 
Stuart attributed to Federigo Zuccero. As it turns out, the painting is 
no longer thought to be of Mary Queen of Scots. A pectoral cross that 
had been overpainted onto the original painting was removed in a 1950s 
cleaning. The keeper of the Chatsworth collection (where the painting 
currently resides) was able to tell me that the painting had been 
altered in order to sell it to a former owner as Mary Queen of Scots. It 
is now simply called a Spanish Princess. I ordered a color copy of the 
same picture to use in my presentation at the Phoenix Art Museum, and 
though I may not share it with you, I can tell you that the outer gown 
is deep red and appears to be a velvet, and that the underskirt appears 
to be a gold damask. The partlet and sleeves match and appear to be 
raised work or even lacy like. There is incredible three dimensional 
work here.

What struck me was the similarity in the sitters and I began to wonder 
if this might not be another picture of, either Isabella of Valois, or 
perhaps her sister, (Marguerite de Valois (May 14, 1553 – May 27, 1615) 
or even perhaps one of her daughters, ( Isabella Clara Eugenia December 
8, 1566; – December 12,1633; and Catherina Michaella (October 10, 1567 – 
November 6, 1597).

I suppose the skirt could be classified as Spanish due to its conical 
shape, the headpiece French? I have seen it referred to as an Escoffion 
or even as a French hood (neither of which strike me as being 
appropriate). Anyone know of anything conclusive that shows where the 
mahoitered sleeve originated? I have seen several in German dress.

Since the proposed sitters were of Italian descent, living in France and 
in the case of Isabella ending up in Spain, (and now the dang picture is 
in England) and we all know by now that the people were liberally 
wearing costumes from other countries, what makes this costume either 
French, Spanish, English, or Italian in your minds? (What strikes you as 
influences from each of those countries).

I am in the processs of hunting down the history of the picture's 
ownership in hopes of discovering who the sitter is. This picture came 
to Chatsworth in approximately 1760 and I have traced the ownership back 
to someone living between 1566 and 1643. Does anyone know the habits of 
painting collectors at this time? Would they only have purchase 
paintings they thought to have been their relatives, or would they 
collect paintings of any famous personage?

Whew, thanks for taking the time to read all thislooking forward to 
hearing your opinions.

Sg

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[h-cost] Picture Trail for H-costume was: Pictures - Show and Tell

2006-01-28 Thread WickedFrau

Me too, I was hoping that others would take advantage of the Picture 
Trail album I set up for H-costume for the gift exchange...but now that 
they have these free photo albums which everyone can use, I guess it 
maybe it isn't necessary?No one is really using it...boo hoo.


Sg



Susan Data-Samtak wrote:

I love seeing other people's work, anything from simple how to's to 
the finish items.



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Re: [h-cost] prices

2006-01-28 Thread WickedFrau

I think that is a very reasonable price.  Just as a guideline, I have a 
friend who is a wonderful fiber artist (amongst many other things) she 
marks her wares up 200%.  Not sure what this would make your bags cost, 
but thought it might be an idea to consider.  Meanwhile, I am putting on 
my thinking cap to dream up a commission from you..

Saragrace


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Hi
Just curious,
I know that things are cheap in america, but also wages are cheap
Here in Eurpe, we pay 25% for all goods and pay almost 45% from our 
income.

This makes everything expenive
Do you consider my bag for 100 dollars cheap or expensive?
Globalisations is catching up on us.
God or bad?

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] stumpwork bag

2006-01-27 Thread WickedFrau

I was just about to askwhen are you going to offer some of these up 
for sale?  That is your intention right?  I think I remember you saying 
you were trying to do some smaller items for saleI assume we can 
commission you for something special as well?


Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:



I think i have an interrested buyer allready.

Bjarne



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[h-cost] Wow-cool current style shoe!

2006-01-26 Thread WickedFrau


*http://tinyurl.com/84juu*
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[h-cost] Wow-could we get away with these at an 18th century gig?

2006-01-26 Thread WickedFrau


Wow-could we get away with these at an 18th century gig?
http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/3035290/c/20.html


WickedFrau wrote:


*http://tinyurl.com/84juu*



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Re: [h-cost] 16th century Men's trades person shoe suggestions

2006-01-24 Thread WickedFrau


Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote:


At our local faire, it is strongly suggested that closed shoes be worn, so
stuff isn't constantly getting in and also so your shoes don't inadvertently
fall off. Plain closed shoes can be found at www.landsend.com Those are what
I wear and I spend most of the day on my feet.
 


Do you mean these?  *http://tinyurl.com/8qpd3
I was thinking those might workthank you for your idea!

Sg
*

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Re: [h-cost] 16th century Men's trades person shoe

2006-01-24 Thread WickedFrau

Wow, those are nice...thank you. 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I recommend these: http://www.bornshoes.com/asp/shoepage.asp?itemid=M4250  Not 
particularly period, but generic enough not to distract, and affordable. I have 
the ladies' version (http://www.bornshoes.com/asp/shoepage.asp?itemid=W2021), 
and I find them very comfortable. I bought them because I needed something I 
could slip on and off while wearing a corset, and I can't afford real period 
shoes, but I find myself wearing my Borns around the house all the time.

Tea Rose
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[h-cost] New trend in Men's shoes?

2006-01-23 Thread WickedFrau

Wow, some of these shoes have a positively period feel to them...is 
this a new trend; the more pointy toe??  I am not up on current fashion 
at all.


Sg

http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAMEPROD_ID=1624520 
http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAMEPROD_ID=1624520


http://tinyurl.com/dwm8w

http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAMEPROD_ID=1625026 
http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAMEPROD_ID=1625026


http://tinyurl.com/7fgy4
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[h-cost] More fantastic figures/dolls was: fashion dolls again.

2006-01-22 Thread WickedFrau

Burgidges dolls are awesome. 


Here is another artist who is in the LA area:
http://www.galleryhistoricalfigures.com/
This fellow is AMAZING

Too bad the one I know you all would like to get a closer look at comes 
up with, although interesting,  the wrong doll upon clicking.  I have 
written the webmaster to get it fixed so keep checking back!  French:  
Countess de la Motte 1756-1793:  *http://tinyurl.com/achdn*


http://www.galleryhistoricalfigures.com/figures-pages/French/dela-motte/dela-motte.html

Enjoy

Sg

Katy Bishop wrote:


This talk of fashion dolls reminds me of a wonderful array of
historically dressed dolls by John Burbidge, Les Petites Dames de
Mode.  Not sure if they have been brought up here before, but for
anyone thinking about making period dressed dolls they are well worth
a look.

 



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Re: [h-cost] fashion dolls again.

2006-01-20 Thread WickedFrau

Those are such awesome dolls, can't wait to see your dolls dressed. 
Some links that might interest you:


Awesome faceups:
http://www.bellarepaints.com/enhancements-gallery.htm

Not sure why these dolls appeal to me (other than the fact they are 
jointed in 23 differnt places!) the are kind of odd.

They are very realistic and alien looking at the same time:
Here are some examples of Asian Ball Jointed Dolls
http://glassorion.main.jp/


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Hi,
I remember we disgussed this topic way back. I finally found a danish 
importer of the famous Tonner Dolls. I ordered 3 of these.

Emme, American Beauty and Matt O'Neill.
I was not happy about the horrible doll i made myself, it compleately 
stopped my wish to make small scale costumes :-)
These dolls are fabulous, and i shall make a historical evolution of 
fashion at my webpage in the future.
Must keep this in mind every time i go fabric shopping, to look for 
something that drapes well in a small scale.


Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Mother Ginger

2006-01-17 Thread WickedFrau

I forget which one is POF 1 and 2.  Is it Patterns of Fashion: 1660-1860 
(Patterns of Fashion)
or is it Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for 
Men and Women C1560-1620
I could probably go look at my own, but am too lazy.  I see that they 
have the dates in the title but are not labeled as Volume I and II on 
the covers


Sg
*
*Becky wrote:

I just recived a copy of Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1. It is 
quite a bit larger than I thgouhg it would be. It has lots of things I 
can use but it isn't what i expected. I may resell it on eBay or 
amazon.com. It will help with the Mother Ginger costume but not the 
other Renaissance costumes which are earlier periods.

It's quite a disappointment to me.



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[h-cost] Sockings on a frame :knit stockings

2006-01-15 Thread WickedFrau

I saw some of the previous posts and links about this and was curious if 
you knew how far back knitting socks on a frame went? 
Also...having made the spelling error above in the subject, I started to 
wonder how the t started getting left out of stocking...or was it the 
other way around?


Thanks,

Sg




 



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Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear

Yes, and I will look for a picture I have seen where there are women 
pulling up their skirst to warm their feet/legs at a fire in a room.  It 
is almost a cut away picture as if to show the scene of the village, 
but what is going on inside the buildings as well.   I think I said this 
recently on the list (and have been away so, forgive if this was part of 
this conversation and I have forgotten.) if you go to Moryson, where he 
is talking about clothing in on the continent in several places he says 
that women do  wear breeches under their gowns.  Of course this is later 
than you speak of (1598~1604), but..


This cold is the cause, why their sheepe and cattell are kept in 
stables, to bring forth their young. And howsoeuer the same be done in 
Italy, subiect to great heate, yet it is not of necessitie, as here, but 
out of the too great tendernesse of the Italians, towards the few cattle 
they haue And this is the cause, that how soeuer they vse not hot 
stoaues, as the Germans doe,  yet the Weomen, as well at home, as in the 
Churches, to driue away cold, put vnder them little pannes of fier, 
couered with boxes of wood, boared full of holes in the top. And this 
sordid remedy they carry with them, by the high way in waggons, which 
the Danes or Mosconites vse not, though oppressed with greater cold: 
onely some of the more noble Weomen, disliking this remedy, choose 
rather to weare breeches, to defend them from the cold.  (Netherands)..


Some of the chiefe Women not able to abide the extreme cold, and loth to 
put fier vnder them for heate (as the common vse is) because it causeth 
wrinckles and
spots on their bodies, doe vse to weare breeches of linnen or silke. 
(Germany)...


The City Virgins, and especially Gentlewomen, couer their heads, face, 
and backes with a Vaile, that they may not be seene passing the 
streetes, and in many

places weare silke or linnen breeches vnder their gownes. (Italy)


Sg


Were there any fires inside? Most of the castles we visited in France
were damp and cold, but twice we visited castles where the chimneys
had been restored so they'd made a fire inside - makes a whole world
of difference. They would still be cold in the winter, though...

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Re: [h-cost] pride and prejudice (late)



Unitil I read your review I really had no interest in this movie...I 
will wait till it is on DVD...but thanks!



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Re: [h-cost] happy danse



Pictures...We want Pictures!!!


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Re: [h-cost] Avant-garde gown


Why don't you contact the company?  I am sure they would help you.
Sg
Beth Chamberlain wrote:


Is there someone who has Patterns of History's avant-garde gown who could
give me the yardage requirements for size 10 (or something close)? I just
ordered the pattern but I'm afraid the fabric I want will be gone if I wait
for the pattern to show up.



Thanks

Beth

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[h-cost] silk knit fabric: was: knit stockings

Thai Silks sells it.  I bought some several years ago to make a mini 
sock for a fashion doll.


They sell it in two weights:
 034A 
http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PRODStore_Code=TSProduct_Code=034A   
	Silk Knit, 155 Gram, 42 
http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PRODStore_Code=TSProduct_Code=034A 
	
 034B 
http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PRODStore_Code=TSProduct_Code=034B   
	Silk Knit, 220 Gram, 49 
http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PRODStore_Code=TSProduct_Code=034B 




http://www.thaisilks.com/

Sg


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Hi Kelly,
This was very generous of you to give your knolledge with this. May i 
ask where did you buy your knitted material.

I dont think i would be able to get it here in Denmark.
There is a pattern in Costume Closeup from Colonial Williamsburg i 
could use.
Dont mind if it is cotton knit, it is better than my nylon ballet 
danse tricot pans i use. laughs.


Bjarne



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Re: [h-cost] RE: medieval quote on underwear

I wasn't assuming anything...I was just providing a source that compared 
an English traveler writing about other countries.  I am not trying to 
provide information to infer that it was more or less common either


Sg

Marc Carlson wrote:




Ok, maybe we could look at this a different way.  Turn it around.  
Instead of trying to figure out where and when women were wearing 
breeches of some sort -- why are we assuming they weren't?  And why 
are we assuming it was commonly done?   Is this one of those things 
we've just assumed because our view of the past is filtered *through* 
a period when it may have been this way (which seems to happen a lot)?


Marc



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Re: [h-cost] Stitch example?