Re: [h-cost] Blackwork pattern sought

2010-03-25 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Tue, 23 Mar 2010 11:12:30 -0700 (PDT) Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com
writes:
 I hope this isn't off topic - it *is* for a costume.
 
 I'm hoping someone here can help me out.  I've misplaced the pattern 
 for some blackwork that's in progress.  I've checked everything I 
 have at home and haven't turned it up.  The pattern is a counted 
 blackwork with acorns, oak leaves and trellis work that repeats in 
 mirror image/left/right.  It's not in Gostelow and not in the 
 Blackwork Archives.  I'm pretty sure it was from an online source.  
 Everything else I've checked is a broken link.
 Any suggestions?

Hi Julie. You might check

www.dragonbear.com

www.angelfire.com/band/sampler/osanna4.html

http://elizabethancostume.net

http://elizabethangeek.com   Costume Review section, and articles

http://www.janezimmerman.com/Needlework_History/Blackwork.pdf

http://moas.atlantia.sca.org Go to 'embroidery' and look under
'blackwork'


Hope this helps! :-)

Arlys



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Re: [h-cost] Vinegar, yuck!

2009-10-16 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Let it air outside for a few days.

Arlys

On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 00:54:17 -0400 Michelle Plumb
mpl...@wideopenwest.com writes:
 Hello, all.
 
 I purchased a lightweight denim jacket dyed a dark blue.  It's 
 lovely, 
 but reeks of vinegar!
 
 I've washed it three times, and the smell lingers on.
 
 Any ideas?
 TIA,
 Michelle
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Re: [h-cost] Creeping underskirt

2009-10-09 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Or an anti-static spray.

Arlys

On Fri, 9 Oct 2009 09:51:36 -0500 Alexandria Doyle garbaho...@gmail.com
writes:
 Was it a static cling issue?  Lotion rubbed light over the
 leg/stocking seems to help that
 
 alex
 
 On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 9:42 AM, Tania Gruning tania_g...@yahoo.com 
 wrote:
  Hiya all.
  I hope you can all help me with a practical question.
 
  I have made 2 skirts from this pattern 
 http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/schnitte/s1908_6.gif. it was easy and 
 the result rather nice. 1 in red wool in a medium weight and the 
 other in cotton broadcloth as an underskirt.
 
  My problem is that I have worn them today, and the cotton 
 underskirt kept creeping up. What do I do to avoid that. put weights 
 in the hem, make a another underskirt in a smoother fabric, don't 
 wear wool/nylon stockings?.
 
  Hope you have some advice for me.
 
  Tania
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Black beads Princess Elizabeth image

2009-06-16 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Jet was also used.

Jet beads from the late 15th or early 16th century have been
recovered... . The source of the jet was probably Whitby in Yorkshire...
. Jet--and amber--working waste has been found on the same site in York.
Finished jet beads have been excacated in Oxford... . Jet is believed,
according to a 12th century source, to have anaesthetising powers.

From: Egan, Geoff and Frances Pritchard. _Dress Accessories 1150-1450_
(Museum of London series). Boydell Press, reprint 2002, p. 309.

Arlys

On Tue, 16 Jun 2009 00:28:28 -0400 Becky Rautine zearti...@hotmail.com
writes:
 
 After all the discussion about the black beads in other portraits, I 
 see the black squares in the Princess ELizabeth portrait as the 
 black with a white spot like someone said. Could these be diamonds 
 instead of onyx or some other black stones?The pearls are black 
 here, but maybe the others are.
  One site that reproduces Renaissance jewelry has this as a white 
 diamond instead of the black square on the necklace part. I'm making 
 this complete outfit for my daughter. Are these suppose to be white 
 diamonds instead of the black squares? I never thought about it 
 until the recent eye-opening research on black pearls in paintings.
 
 Sincerely,
 Rebecca Rautine
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress

2009-05-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Try googling

Elizabethan geek

She's got a great website.

Arlys

On Tue, 26 May 2009 16:37:18 -0700 Sharon Collier
sha...@collierfam.com writes:
 I am looking for a picture or instructions for a late Elizabethan 
 headdress.
 I do not want the French hood that covers the ears, rather I am 
 looking for
 the fancy roll that sits further back on the head. I believe these 
 were
 attached to a caul, but I'm not sure. Any 
 advice/ideas/pictures/links would
 be appreciated.
 Sharon C.
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[h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs

2009-05-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. My SCA persona's appr. time is 1312, England. 
 
A few months ago, I got my very long hair cut short; love it--no 
regrets. Made a sizable donation to Locks of Love, a charity I would 
encourage you to consider if you are getting your long hair cut.
 
Anyway, the problem:
 
My hair is naturally very wavy and has a lot of bounce. My summer 
coif isn't heavy enough to keep my hair down. Might anyone know if women 
of this period wore linen headkerchiefs? I'm trying to stay away from
turbans--things like that give me headaches. 
 
Any links would be hugely appreciated!

Much thanks,
Arlys


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Re: [h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs

2009-05-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Wed, 27 May 2009 19:10:45 +0100 Anne anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
writes:
 Could you describe more fully what you are terming a coif and a 
 headkerchief?

You bet! :-) Coif--the ubiquitous little cap-like thing everyone wore.
Headkerchief--I suppose we'ld call them scarves nowadays. Take a square
of fabric, fold it into a triangle, place on head, tie two points
together in the back.

Thanks!
Arlys
 
 The classic style for early 1300s is with the hair in knobs, loops 
 or 
 columns at the temples, with one piece of cloth (wimple?) round 
 the 
 throat, under the chin and pulled up to the temples and another 
 (veil?) draped over the top of the head.  They would certainly be 
 linen, but of whatever weight suits you best.  (The hair can be 
 false 
 pieces on a headband, or omitted if necessary.)
 
 Jean
 
 Cynthia J Ley wrote:
  Hi all. My SCA persona's appr. time is 1312, England. 
   
  A few months ago, I got my very long hair cut short; love it--no 
  regrets. Made a sizable donation to Locks of Love, a charity I 
 would 
  encourage you to consider if you are getting your long hair cut.
   
  Anyway, the problem:
   
  My hair is naturally very wavy and has a lot of bounce. My summer 
  coif isn't heavy enough to keep my hair down. Might anyone know if 
 women 
  of this period wore linen headkerchiefs? I'm trying to stay away 
 from
  turbans--things like that give me headaches. 
   
  Any links would be hugely appreciated!
 
  Much thanks,
  Arlys
 
  
  Click to slash your phone bill by up to 90%. Discounted VoIP 
 service
  

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Re: [h-cost] Rabbit - was: What kind of fur would you use for this?

2009-03-03 Thread Cynthia J Ley
There are some surprising good faux furs out there as well. They look
great and they're durable as all heck. My fake fur cloaks have seen a lot
of hard wear and have been worn for decades, with decades left to go. The
only thing I've needed to replace in all those years in the lining.

Chances are you'll pay between $29-$35 dollars a yard, but they come on
huge upholstery rolls. The furs can be easily cut into strips. The main
thing is to brush them with your hand against the grain. The good furs
will hardly shed at all, if at all.

And they're a lot easier to keep clean.

For my money, a great value.

Just an option

Arlys

On Tue, 3 Mar 2009 09:28:05 -0500 sunshine.k.buch...@kp.org writes:
  Someone told me that rabbit (and cat) are one of the few furs that 
 sheds 
 and is a 
  terrible mess?  Anyone have that experience?
 
 Yes, rabbit sheds amazingly. However, it is a relatively cheap fur 
 to 
 learn how to work with fur on - especially if you look for fur coats 
 on 
 eBay or someplace like that ;-) You can get some of the other furs 
 on eBay 
 too; the older coats are inexpensive when compared to new/unused 
 pelts, 
 but fox fur still runs in the hundreds of dollars... *sigh*
 -sunny
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Re: [h-cost] Name That Scandinavian Handicraft

2009-03-02 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Are you talking about nalbinding?

Arlys

On Mon, 2 Mar 2009 09:42:00 -0800 Ulrika O'Brien
ulrika.obr...@gmail.com writes:
 There is a type of handicraft formerly practiced in Scandinavia that
 is neither knitting nor crochet, but worked with (wool) yarn and a
 bone needle very like a tapestry needle.  It's more
 historical/traditional than current I think, but I've seen exemplars
 and the work produced is very dense and tight -- looks a bit like a
 herringbone weave as I recall -- and is particularly suitable for
 heavy mittens.  Does anyone know what I'm talking about, and if so,
 can you tell me what the technique is called and whether I can find
 information on how to do it anywhere?
 
 Thanks in advance,
 
 Ulrika
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Re: [h-cost] corset for a singer

2009-01-29 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Dame Regina Romsey made one for me--I'm a singer too, with quite a
differential between full inhale and full exhale. She made me a barrel
corset, to be worn under an Italian Ren gown. Worked perfectly. 

Arlys

On Thu, 29 Jan 2009 10:37:28 -0800 (PST) Zuzana Kraemerova
zkraemer...@yahoo.com writes:
 Hi,
 
 I have a very special question. My singing teacher asked me to sew a 
 corset for her - she wants it as an undergarment for concerts, to 
 make her look, I guess, more beautiful. She is a size 18-20. She 
 would like a corset similar to the 1880s styles, but it doesn't have 
 to be too complicated. But a proper corset with metal bones and 
 front busk fastening and lacing etc.
 
 The point is, she needs to take a deep breath in the corset (when 
 she breathes, her bust circumference increases up to 8cm more). And 
 I have NO IDEA how that's going to work, because corsets are usually 
 the same size or a bit smaller than your bust (and, certainly, your 
 waist). The stupid thing is she has to breathe in the belly as well 
 as in the upper ribcage (ehm, my knowledge of anatomy in English is 
 poor, I don't know how's that king of breathing called. Simply means 
 she will increase her bust as well as waist circumference when 
 taking a deep breath.)
 
 Does any of you have some experience with corsets for singers? Or 
 any ideas of where to search for information? I thought making one 
 panel in the corset of some elastic, but that would definitely loose 
 the sense of wearing a corset. 
 But I think this must be possible to solve somehow, don't tell me 
 19th century singers wore no corsets... 
 I also thought of trying an existing corset on her so that she can 
 try out how she can sing, but I have no corsets in such a large 
 size:-(
 
 Thanks for help,
 
 Zuzana 
 
 
   
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Re: [h-cost] odd sideless

2009-01-26 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Sometimes they were fur.

Arlys

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 11:41:06 EST albert...@aol.com writes:
  
 In a message dated 1/26/2009 10:39:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
 c...@juno.com writes:
 
 It looks  rather like a plaquet (sp?).
 
 Arlys
 
 
 
 *
  
 Yes...but didn't we call it a plastron in costume history? Maybe 
 just the  
 English for plaquet. Isn't it usually covered in embroidery, 
 jewels, plate 
 and  stuff like that?
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Re: [h-cost] odd sideless

2009-01-26 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 17:49:10 -0600 otsisto otsi...@socket.net writes:
 I was emailing something to another person and I guess I put the 
 wrong url
 for the statue. whoops, bahahahd me.
 Here's the correct url showing full statue, front.

The musicians here enjoyed the link. :-)

Arlys (music-type Laurel)

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Re: [h-cost] tape stickem problem

2009-01-20 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Can you steam it off?

Arlys

On Mon, 19 Jan 2009 21:26:08 -0800 (PST) REBECCA BURCH
ctrvlyf...@sbcglobal.net writes:
 Anybody have any ideas how to remove duct tape stickum from ultra 
 suede? I have a beautiful throw, dark blue ultra suede on one side, 
 long pile on the other. Eldest son used it to cover a Nagahide chair 
 with duct tape repairs. End result is that body heat melted the tape 
 stickum which is now in spots on the suede side (thank goodness - 
 imagine if it was stuck to the pile!!!) 
 
 I have tried pulling the residue off with new pieces of tape with no 
 success. I am hesitant to try Goo Gone or other solvents due to the 
 100% poly fiber content. I want to clean it, not melt it. It is too 
 large to put in the freezer, although now I think about it I could 
 just put it out on the front porch - it was minus 10 yesterday AM.
 
 Any suggestions gratefully accepted.
 
 Rebecca Burch
 Center Valley Farm
 Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA
 
 The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the 
 flat folds and the brocades.  --Anonymous Costumer--
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Re: [h-cost] Yellowed silk

2009-01-04 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I could be hallucinating, but I recall reading somewhere that vinegar or
lemon juice were sometimes used to lighten hair.

Arlys

On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 16:00:07 -0500 Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
writes:
 
 On Jan 4, 2009, at 2:29 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
 
  It can take a little while for the bleach to do its work. I 
 suppose  
  that is why you can use certain (weak) bleach products to alter 
 the  
  color of your hair and not end up bald ... but it's certainly not  
 
  good for your hair.


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Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?

2008-11-23 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Go with the grain of the thread. Run your fingers down the thread one
way, then down the other way. The path of least resistance is the grain.

Going against the grain can damage the thread!

Arlys

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 - Viv Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...
 
 I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the 
 spool first 
 through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful 
 hints' 
 books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent 
 knots!
 
 Any thoughts?
 Viv. 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?

2008-11-23 Thread Cynthia J Ley
It weakens it, because what's really happening is micro-fraying when you
go against the grain.

Arlys

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 17:11:07 -0600 Alexandria Doyle
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 I don't know if it damages the thread, but I know that watching the
 way the twist goes into the needle means there is less knotting and
 frustration when I'm embroidering with silk.
 
 alex
 
 On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 4:07 PM, Cynthia J Ley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 wrote:
  Go with the grain of the thread. Run your fingers down the thread 
 one
  way, then down the other way. The path of least resistance is the 
 grain.
 
  Going against the grain can damage the thread!
 
  Arlys
 
  On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:25:22 - Viv Watkins 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  writes:
  This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so...
 
  I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the
  spool first
  through the needle.  But today I was reading one of those 'useful
  hints'
  books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent
  knots!
 
  Any thoughts?
  Viv.
 
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Re: [h-cost] Devil's Cloth

2008-11-05 Thread Cynthia J Ley
More info, please?

Arlys

On Tue, 4 Nov 2008 23:15:17 -0800 (PST) [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 What a coincidence! I didn't know the book existed until I saw a used 
 copy today at Powell's in Chicago. If you live in the area and want 
 to save on shipping, you might want to see if it's still there (2850 
 N. Lincoln)
 Carol Mitchell
 
  Costume Midwest 
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/ 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] MEDIEVAL ARCHEOLOGY

2008-11-03 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:04 + JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 In celebration of the Society for Medieval Archeology's 50th 
 aniversary, the 
 first 50 volumes of the journal Medieval Archeology have been 
 placed 
 online for free viewing at
 http://ads.ahds.ac.uk/catalogue/library/med_arch/
 There is as list of them by years and I just clicked on 1984 at 
 random to 
 find a 30 page article on late Saxon textile finds in the City of 
 London!

Where exactly did you find these?

thanks,
Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] Curious about headdress - Arabic?

2008-08-05 Thread Cynthia J Ley
There was an interesting article in an issue of TI last year about how to
wrap turbans, with pics.

Arlys

On Tue, 05 Aug 2008 22:26:02 -0600 Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Saragrace Knauf wrote:
  I am watching a program on the Koran, and see several types of 
 men's head dress.  One with a white cloth and then a black rope 
 circlet of two rounds.  It looks like marine rope, but this seems 
 unlikely.  Anyone know anything about it?  Also, there are some 
 simple turban like head dress, both simply white and blackanyone 
 know how to wrap them?
 
 The red and white, or black and white checkered scarves are called 
 kaffiyeh. The rope bands that hold them in place are called agal. 
 There 
 are many ways to wear the keffiyeh, the color and they way it is 
 wrapped 
 often depend on the wearer's nationality or ethnic origin. They are 
 only 
 worn by men. The simplest way to wear one is to fold it in half to 
 make 
 a triangle, and drape it with the folded edge across the forehead. 
 My 
 father brought one home as a souvenier from working in Saudi Arabia 
 many 
 years ago.
 The plain black and plain white turbans are made from very long 
 lengths 
 of narrow woven cotton. My husband works with a man who wears one. 
 He 
 graciously allowed me to borrow one for a few days. The cotton was 
 very 
 thin, and I was told the way to wear it was to just start wrapping 
 it 
 around your head until you got it all covered. It was horrendously 
 long, 
 but I forget how many yards. I suppose if you grow up in that 
 culture 
 you learn some tricks to wrapping it so it looks nice.
 
 
 
 
 Dawn
 
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Re: [h-cost] fabric search

2008-07-17 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Tried Pendleton Wool?

Arlys

On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 10:07:00 -0300 SPaterson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Have you tried a Tartan shop?  Google Tartan Fabric and you may get a 
 hit or 
 two...but it may be $$
 
 Sarah Paterson
 
 - Original Message - 
 
 I am searching for wool (coat or  blanket weight) in a red or blue 
 plaid. 
 I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid.  I've 
 looked 
 through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors:
  fabric.com
  denverfabric.com
  joann.com
  hancock fabrics.com
  trimfabrics.com
 
  as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby.  We found the perfect 
 *color* 
  plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which 
 won't 
  do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored 
 polarfleece 
  product, but that would be a last choice.
 
  Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search?
  Thanks!
  Denise B
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Re: [h-cost] Crespines--the hair net kind

2008-07-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
If you're looking for snoods (what's the difference between a snood and a
crespine??), check out 

www.pillagedvillage.com

They're woven nylon and will fit just about anyone. Also easy to
embellish, if you wish. Sell at $4 each, or 3 for $10, many colors
available.

Arlys (not affiliated, just a satisfied customer)

On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 09:27:31 -0400 Susan Carroll-Clark
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Dawn wrote:
  Joan Mielke wrote:
  Does anyone know of a commercial source for actual net crespines, 
 as 
  opposed
  to the crocheted ones?
 
  Like these?
 
  
 http://www.instawares.com/hairnet-nylon-28in-box.401-dhn500bk.0.7.htm
 
  You might be able to find singles (or small quantities) at a good 
  beauty supply, or even restaurant supply shop. 
 
 Other than these nylon-type nets, I have never seen netted hairnets 
 sold 
 anywhere.  I make my own, and everyone else I know who has one 
 either 
 does the same or gets them from someone else who does.
 
 I highly recommend learning how to do it if you'd like nets made 
 from 
 coloured thread.  Once you've learned the basic knot, it's a 
 surprisingly fast and easy thing to do.
 
 Susan
 
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Re: [h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches

2008-05-04 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Thanks! That is exactly what I needed! :-)

Arlys

On Sat, 3 May 2008 13:59:13 -0500 otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 If you are talking about 1500s the you might look for pocket pouches.
 http://vads.ahds.ac.uk/images/PHS/floral_pocket.jpg
 To my understanding these were wore under their skirts. It is 
 believed that
 the skirts had a slit in them for easy access or in some cases where 
 the
 pocket is between the under skirt and the over skirt, the over skirt 
 would
 be hiked up for access. Though here
 http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat%27s%20Soccaccia.html
 they seem to be on the outside.
 Late 1400s there are some paintings that show that the pouch is worn 
 under
 the over garb and access was as with the pocket.
 
 1. Take with grain o' salt as I have not thoroughly researched this.
 2. Please note that this is not a SCA list and some here might not 
 know what
 SCA is. :)
 3. Have you asked on the Italian Ren yahoo groups list?
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Italian_Renaissance_Costuming/
 
 De
 
 -Original Message-
 Hi all! Got a question I was hoping you good folks could help me 
 with.
 How did Italian Ren women carry their pouches if not in hand? Did 
 they
 wear a belt of some sort? Carry it under the gown, accessible 
 through a
 dress slit?
 
 Any advice greatly appreciated! :-)
 
 much thanks,
 Arlys, clueless in An Tir
 
 
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[h-cost] Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches

2008-05-03 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all! Got a question I was hoping you good folks could help me with.
How did Italian Ren women carry their pouches if not in hand? Did they
wear a belt of some sort? Carry it under the gown, accessible through a
dress slit?  

Any advice greatly appreciated! :-)

much thanks,
Arlys, clueless in An Tir
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Re: [h-cost] Standard reference books on embroidery history?

2008-05-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Thu, 01 May 2008 08:18:45 -0500 Catherine Kinsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Pretty much everything that Jane said below :).
  
 I would add George W. Digby's Elizabethan Embroidery (Faber  
 Faber,
 1963) for a good broader perspective on blackwork and embroidery in 
 the
 latter 16th C.
  
 Mamluk is a MUST!  I don't have the titles in front of me but I 
 think a
 couple of books by Kathleen Epstein/Staples touch on this too.
  
 Catherine

It's my understanding that Thomas (?) Trevelon's book is being re-issued,
and it is an amazing--if pricey--source.

Jane Ashelford's book on Elizabethan dress (sorry, been up 5 minutes and
can't remember the title) is a wonderful source for the contexts of
embroidery.

Arlys

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] Sorry, had to laugh

2008-04-30 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 08:05:11 -0500 Genie Barrett
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 At 05:35 AM 4/30/2008, you wrote:
 Several people from here in AnTir (SCA Kingdom including the 
 Pacific
 Northwest/Northwet of the United States)
 
 
 Northwet?  Is that a reference to Washington and Oregon?  Please say 
 you did this on purpose?

Hi Genie. She did it on purpose, and yes, that's exactly what she meant.
:-)

In An Tir, we have a heraldic blazon for it: An Tir sky proper, meaning
gray and more than likely something wet is falling from it. ;)

Arlys

 
 LOL
 
 Genie
 Who lived in Washington for three years and loved it! 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Sorry, had to laugh

2008-04-30 Thread Cynthia J Ley
The minute after this is the final phase of the cycle: steaming. ;-)

Arlys

On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:49:15 -0700 Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 The Pacific NorthWet is pretty standard alternate for Pacific 
 Northwest :-)
 I'm in Portland, Oregon where it is currently hailing, raining, 
 sunning all
 in the same 5 minutes.  Since my migraines are pressure triggered, 
 I'm
 pretty miserable even though I really love the green this produces 
 as well
 as the coolness!
 
 Wanda
  (SCA Kingdom including the Pacific
  Northwest/Northwet of the United States)

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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
 Hi Fran--
 Why is it depressing that many of us are in the SCA?
 
 In order to participate in the SCA, a person has to wear a 
 reasonable
 attempt at pre-17th C. clothing. A lot of us find there is 
 challenge and
 fun in going beyond the minimum. I think that it is great that so 
 many go
 the extra mile for their hobby.
 
 Monica Spence
 
 In Society known as:
 Baroness Catriona MacDuff
 OL,OP,CM,CSC,KoE,QoC,PA,PA,AoA,OSF,OSS
 East Kingdom


I'm with Her Excellency. The reasonable attempt does two important
things:

1) it doesn't scare off the new folks. We figure once you're here, you
should be given time to see what's out there, and make your own choices.

2) it doesn't scare off the new folks. We're not re-enactors, having to
come in with a full kit.

Arlys

 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Lavolta Press
 Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 3:33 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You 
 Own
 
 
 What I find both interesting and depressing in this discussion is 
 that
 (a) judging from the books discussed, almost all the people who 
 collect
 and spend much money on costume books are in the SCA and (b) a lot 
 of
 people would rather spend money on fabric and sewing machines.
 
 Fran
 Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
 http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?

2008-04-14 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I've used both Fettered Cock and Billie and Charlie's. Nice stuff. FC
pieces are generally a bit heavier than BC's. Excellent customer service
from both, very nice work. Mark de Gaulker's work is stellar (he's a
fellow An Tirian). He puts out a lot of jeweler's quality work as well, a
little pricey at times but so worth it!

Belt questions: I have a very nice long leather belt that I bought from
one of our local merchants. I'm going to use saddle soap to soften it up,
but it is quite stiff--is there anything else I can do, short of having
my dogs chew on it?

Also, how long would a medieval lady's belt be? I need to trim it but am
unsure of how much to take off.

Thanks!
Arlys

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:41:07 -0500 (CDT) Pixel, Goddess and Queen
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Fettered Cock, which others have recommended.
 Billy and Charlie's, which others have recommended.
 
 I would add Gaukler's Medieval Wares to that list: 
 http://www.medievalwares.com/ for bronze belt hardware. He is 
 extremely 
 knowledgeable, and often his pieces are direct casts of originals in 
 his 
 collection.
 
 I would add some other notes on 14th c. belts--frequently the belt 
 hardware *was* pewter. Much of the belt hardware in Dress 
 Accessories, for 
 instance, is various pewter alloys.
 
 Also, Historic Enterprises: 
 http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php 
 although again, no leather, just the hardware.
 
 Tandy Leather for undyed belt blanks: 
 http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/index.asp
 
 Yours,
 
 Jen/pixel/Margaret
 
 
 On Sun, 13 Apr 2008, Robin Netherton wrote:
 
  Relaying a request from a friend:
 
  Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good 
 supplier of
  medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is 
 familiar with
  Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would 
 like to know
  his range of options before purchasing.
 
  --Robin
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Re: [h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?

2008-04-14 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:16:26 -0500 (CDT) Pixel, Goddess and Queen
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 What time period of medieval? What are you wearing it with? 
 Generally, 
 length depends on whether or not you're tripping on it and what your 
 
 socio-economic class is. The more money (or rank) you have, the 
 longer and 
 fancier your belt.

Early 1300's, England, upper middle class. Tripping bad. ;-)
 
 The best thing I've found to soften leather is use, or you can treat 
 it with mink oil and work it a lot. Or let your dogs chew on it, but 
 then you'll have toothmarks. ;-)

My husband suggested that I gum it (dentures, y'see), but retracted it
when he saw the dirty look I gave him. ;)

Arlys


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Re: [h-cost] book lust G

2008-04-14 Thread Cynthia J Ley
David Brown Book Company/Oxbow Books carries it too. I can't remember
what they're currently charging.

www.oxbowbooks.com

Arlys

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 17:11:42 -0400 monica spence
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Ouch! Try Michael Shemansky Bookseller (online) for MdF. He usually 
 includes
 shipping in his prices, I think. It is about $100 for the book and 
 it was in
 his mostt recent catalogue. He KNOWS about us costumers. I told him 
 of the
 book's popularity when he questioned me why so many people were 
 asking about
 it.
 
 I plan to read it --again-- before the Janet Arnold Costume 
 Collequium in
 Florence in November.
 
 QEWU is about $250 the last time I saw it advertised anywhere. Thet 
 is a lot
 more scarce.
 
 Monica
 in NYC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Julie
 Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 4:57 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] book lust G
 
 
 I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance 
 costuming
 book) at a Ren Faire this weekend.  I was all set to add it to my 
 collection
 but was shocked at the price.  The last time I looked it was going 
 for about
 $80 U.S.  Yesterday it was priced at $148.
 
 Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two?  Is there 
 another
 less costly vendor?
 
 BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe 
 Unlock'd
 going for now?
 
 Thanks
 Julie in San Diego
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Re: [h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing

2008-03-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Google Jeff Lee's website

Jeff has some lovely late period fonts you can download for free.

Arlys

On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 15:15:02 -0700 Andrew T Trembley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 I need some help (or you can translate this to I'm feeling too lazy  
 
 to do the research myself right now).
 
 I'm looking for two things:
   • Fonts: anybody know any good renaissance-y fonts? I'm 
 looking for  
 something that is both relatively period-accurate for Tudor and  
 Elizabethan printed books, broadsheets and handbills, and something  
 
 that the less-than-educated viewer will think Oooh, old! when they 
  
 see it. Free preferred, but feel free to recommend commercial fonts. 
  
 OpenType preferred, but feel free to recommend TrueType or 
 PostScript.
   • Tudor  Elizabethan printed things: Books, broadsheets, 
 handbills  
 and signs. Yes, of course, facsimiles preferred, and online sources  
 
 preferred. At work I've got access to a number of academic online  
 collections, so feel free to recommend restricted services; I might 
 be  
 able to get to them.
 
 Andy Trembley
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[h-cost] DBBC; neat info on fabric stabilizers

2008-03-17 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Go on the website and get on their mailing list if you want hard copy. I
believe you can also view the flyers online.

I went looking for info on fabric stabilizers today and bumped into a
really cool site which matches stabilizers to fabric. Check it out:

http://www.emlibrary.com/EL/elprojects/holder.aspx?page=PR1153

Arlys

On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 21:01:13 -0400 Catherine Olanich Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 On Monday 17 March 2008, Joan Jurancich wrote:
 
 
  I thought that members of this list might be interested in these 
 new
  book leaflets.
 
 And so at least some of us are... though I too get e-mails from DBBC 
 advising 
 me of their sales events; I wonder why I didn't get these.
 
 Anyway, thanks!
 
 
 -- 
 Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 You affect the world by what you browse.-- Tim Berners-Lee
 
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Re: [h-cost] A question of height....

2008-02-24 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Queen Bess had a discussion with James Melville, Mary Stuart's
ambassador, in 1564 basically grilling him with details all about her
rival. She asked if Mary were taller, to which Melville quickly replied
that she was. Bess replied, Then she is too high. I myself am neither
too high nor too low. (First Elizabethan_Carolly Erickson, 218).

Mary Stuart was almost six feet tall. (Ibid., 200).

Arlys

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 23:01:03 -0600 Exstock [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 I've seen several definitive answers on this (and other) lists, but 
 I'm 
 afraid that they were all different.  The one that stuck in my head 
 best (I 
 think a letter was quoted) was 5'7 with her cousin being too tall 
 at 
 5'9, but of course that means absolutely nothing, since a) I could 
 be 
 remembering wrong, and b) even if I'm remembering right, that 
 doesn't mean 
 that the answer was right.
 
 A web search, by the way, turns up 5'3-5'5 as the most common 
 heights 
 given, for whatever that's worth.  If she was 5'3 near the end of 
 her life 
 it wouldn't be odd for her to have been 5'5 at her tallest, given 
 the 
 shrinking effects of age/osteoporosis.
 
 -E Non-Answers-R-Us House
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Spanish flu

2008-01-14 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Mon, 14 Jan 2008 20:25:28 + Hilary Davidson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 The Spanish influenza pandemic killed at least 20 million people  
 worldwide after world war I, even in isolated corners, and some  
 estimates put it as high as 100 million. It was the worst mass  
 illness since the Black Death.
 A friend who does research on malaria once told me it originated in  
 
 Europe, which was a surprise because I'd  always thought it was  
 tropical. Apparently it was unknown in tropical areas until European 
  
 settlers reached there. He also said that it's looking like wormwood 
  
 - active ingredient in absinthe - is as effective as quinine for  
 easing attacks. But I'm not sure what his sources are.

I was very suprised to learn that malaria is also fairly prevalent in
Oregon. Apparently it has something to do with the rain forests.

Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] seeking 15th-16th c. Portuguese Naval Officers uniforms

2008-01-10 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Please send any further info on this thread to Ingus at
[EMAIL PROTECTED].

Great info--much thanks! :-)

Arlys

On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 19:57:55 -0500 Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 I would be very surprised if there were actually uniforms at that  
 time.  Most formal military uniforms started in the 18th century  
 AFAIK.  If you're interested in what Portuguese people wore to sail  
 
 ships, there are some interesting images created by Japanese artists 
  
 when the Portuguese got to Japan in the late 16th.  If you're  
 interested in that, let me know and I'll try to figure out where the 
  
 info is.
 
 Melanie Schuessler
 
 On Jan 9, 2008, at 4:12 PM, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
 
  Images, possible sources for patterns--anything would be very 
 helpful!
 
  Much thanks,
  Arlys
 
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[h-cost] seeking 15th-16th c. Portuguese Naval Officers uniforms

2008-01-09 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Images, possible sources for patterns--anything would be very helpful!

Much thanks,
Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] Comments on The Tudors

2008-01-07 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Yes, the sweat really happened. Try googling sweating sickness for
more info.

Arlys

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 12:37:33 -0800 Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 At 12:19 PM 1/7/2008, you wrote:
 I rented the disks from Blockbuster this weekend and had a couple 
 of 
 questions/comments.
 
 There is substantial mention of a sweating sickness that killed 
 thousands during Henry VIII's time.  What was that?  No mention of 
 buboes like for plague or marks like smallpox.  Did this really 
 happen or was it just part of their story?  It was very contagious 
 and people were told to burn all clothing  bedding.  I believe 
 consumption is tuberculosis, right?  Any other old disease names 
 with modern equivalents I should know?

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Re: [h-cost] Christmas dinner story...waaaay OT

2007-12-26 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Ok, Albert--that one needed a Norking through the Nose warning! LOL!!!

Arlys

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 12:26:46 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 This was posted on the AOL Classical Music boards [we talk about  
 everything].
  
 *
  
  This is an article submitted to a 1999 Louisville Sentinel  contest 
 to find 
 out who had the wildest Christmas dinner. This won first  prize.

[snip]
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Re: [h-cost] Used book sources

2007-10-08 Thread Cynthia J Ley
You might also go through alibris.com. They go through major book
searches, and the prices are extremely reasonable.

Arlys

On Mon, 8 Oct 2007 12:08:51 -0400 (EDT) [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Another used book source is half.com, which is the non-auction 
 branch
 of e-Bay.  It's not great for the rarer costume books that we
 listmembers like, but it's worth checking first.  This is where
 people unload books for $2 to $10 or so, and they have good
 descriptions for condition.
 
  -Carol
 
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Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)

2007-10-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Have any of you checked out Caccique bras? I swear by them. They seem to
be able to comfortably fit anyone and come in a variety of styles. The
big selling point for me is that while I'm not all that busty, I have a
rib cage that belongs on a football player, and could never find bras
that fit right until I found them. Lane Bryant carries the line. 

Arlys

On Mon, 01 Oct 2007 08:46:50 +0100 Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 
 
 
 Lastly, one of the principal problems with cup sizes is that 
 everyone's bust is not shaped the same way.  Some are completely 
 rounded, some have more tissue underneath and to the sides, 
 etc.  That is why if you find a bra manufacturer that you like, 
 stick with them.  Most manufacturers do not change their cup sizing 
 
 molds for years.
 
 
 Playtex is now making some of its bras in half cup sizes - newspaper 
 
 article last week in England. However, needless to say the larger 
 sizes are not included, and I will have to continue to take tucks in 
 
 some of my bras to make them fit. I could really do with a C and a 
 half!
 
 Suzi
 
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Standard American Diet

2007-10-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Greetings De. I'm a few inches taller than you and weigh about the same.
I have an autoimmune disorder and have to be on thyroid replacement meds
(mine basically died) and some other pretty heavy duty drugs  (all works,
I'm fine), but my drs have all said that it is going to be very difficult
for me to lose weight; that the best thing I can do for myself is to be
fit, strong, and healthy, and not to sweat the weight issue.

Eating healthy is always excellent, but it won't always fix the problems.

Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] More info on my lectures in Oregon

2007-09-19 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi Robin! Unfortunately I can't come owing to a prior commitment, but I
hope Regina will let me read her notes! ;)

Much thanks to you and Tammie (in An Tir, Viscountess Laurellin) and the
organizers for this wonderful opportunity!

Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] Looking for picture link

2007-09-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. I wonder how much, if any, of the various motifs came from emblem
books. Any thoughts, all you Elizabethanophiles?

Arlys

On Sat, 1 Sep 2007 17:41:41 -0500 otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 From this site
 http://www.marileecody.com/eliz1-images.html
 
 Elizabeth's gown is embroidered with English wildflowers, thus 
 allowing the
 queen to pose in the guise of Astraea, the virginal heroine of 
 classical
 literature.  Her cloak is decorated with eyes and ears, implying 
 that she
 sees and hears all.  Her headdress is an incredible design decorated
 lavishly with pearls and rubies and supports her royal crown.  The 
 pearls
 symbolize her virginity; the crown, of course, symbolizes her 
 royalty.
 Pearls also adorn the transparent veil which hangs over her 
 shoulders.
 Above her crown is a crescent-shaped jewel which alludes to Cynthia, 
 the
 goddess of the moon. (De: Most say Diana)
 
 A jeweled serpent is entwined along her left arm, and holds from its 
 mouth a
 heart-shaped ruby.  Above its head is a celestial sphere.  The 
 serpent
 symbolizes wisdom; it has captured the ruby, which in turn 
 symbolizes the
 queen's heart.  In other words, the queen's passions are controlled 
 by her
 wisdom.  The celestial sphere echoes this theme; it symbolizes 
 wisdom and
 the queen's royal command over nature.
 
 Elizabeth's right hand holds a rainbow with the Latin inscription 
 'Non sine
 sole iris' ('No rainbow without the sun').  The rainbow symbolizes 
 peace,
 and the inscription reminds viewers that only the queen's wisdom can 
 ensure
 peace and prosperity.
 
 Elizabeth was in her late sixties when this portrait was made, but 
 for
 iconographic purposes she is portrayed as young and beautiful, more 
 than
 mortal.  In this portrait, she is ageless.
 
 De
 -Original Message-
 
 Note also that this is not intended to show a real outfit: while
 elements of it may actually have existed, the Queen is shown here as
 if she was costumed for a masque. The eyes and ears mantle is not
 the sort of thing that would be worn on any other occasion, I think. 
 :)
 
 
 
 OChris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Davis, California
 + http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
 
 
 
 
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[h-cost] easy to care for plants: was Re: coffee

2007-08-21 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Heather and wallflower are lovely too, and very easy to care for. The
purple heather that you find in the PacNWet blooms in the spring and
fall. Plant it in peat moss, see that it's watered once a weekand feed it
with a general plant food every few months. It puts out a beautiful
cloverlike flower and the bees love it. excellent if you live in an area
hit by bee blight--help those little creatures recover.

Wallflower is a bush with thin leaves and throws out beautiful stalks of
blooms. Plant it in regular soil, and care for as you would heather.
Again, bees love it. 

Prune both plants back from time to time--heather for shaping (as it
grows, it becomes excellent ground cover) and the wallflower stalks  back
to the bush level as the blooms die off. It also covers ground well. It
likes medium to full sunlight; my heather grows in a mostly shaded area
and doesn't seem to mind.

Enjoy your beautiful garden and the compliments!

Arlys

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 09:05:19 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  
 In a message dated 8/21/2007 4:42:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Then you  should try Cannas
 
 
 
  
 And daylilies. Talk about maintenance free! And they come is some 
 amazing  
 varieties, not just the tawny ditch lily. Check out this vendor!
  
 _http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000_ 
 (http://www.oakesdaylilies.com/supplier/home.php?id=s000) 
  
  
 Of course the actual blooms only last a day so you can't really cut 
 them  and 
 bring them inside. But they bloom day after day, especially if you 
 water  
 them when they 1st start coming up in the spring. They spread  too.
 
 
 
 ** Get a sneak peek of the 
 all-new AOL at 
 http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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Re: [h-cost] Save the date -- Oregon lecture event

2007-08-20 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I took the first 3 lectures listed here, plus Robin's sideless surcoat
class, and they and she are AWESOME!! :-D

Also of note, if anyone's going to be in the Portland OR area the weekend
prior--the Rivers campus of the University of Ithra will be hosting a
Roving To Rainment Ithra Oct 13-14. For more information, check back at
www.ithra.antir.sca.org  The info will be going up soon. All classes are
pre-registration, and you will be able to register online.

It's going to be a great week for costuming, folks!

Robin, do you know if people are going to be able to register for the
separate lectures?

Arlys,
Regent, Rivers Ithra

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 16:41:19 -0500 (CDT) Robin Netherton
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 (OK to forward this post to individuals and other lists.)
 
 For those who may be interested: I'll be doing a day of lectures in
 Eugene, Oregon, on Saturday, October 20. The official announcement 
 is due
 out soon, and I'll update the list when it's posted, but I figured 
 some
 people might need the extra notice.
 
 I'll be speaking on these topics:
 
  -- The Gothic Fitted Dress
  -- The Greenland Gored Gown
  -- The Fifteenth-Century V-neck Gown
  -- When Medieval Meets Victorian: The Roots of Modern Costume 
 Sources
  -- Saintly Inspiration: Using Medieval Religious Figures for 
 Costume
   Research
 
 (I realize many of you have already seen some of these lectures, but 
 then,
 apparently plenty of people haven't, as this was what the hosting 
 group
 requested!)
 
 This is half of a two-day event. On Sunday, October 21, the speaker 
 will
 be Tammie Dupuis of The Renaissance Tailor. I do not know her 
 topics, I'm
 afraid.
 
 I have no idea what the fee will be or whether you pay for the two 
 days
 separately or both together. When the announcement comes, we'll all 
 find
 out.
 
 However, if you want to be on the waiting list and get direct
 notification, you can send a request to Jamie Parker,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] .
 
 More when I know more.
 
 
 ==
 Robin Netherton 
 Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [h-cost] How do I make a removable leg cast?

2007-08-13 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Never tried this, but could you not use some of the thinner foam padding,
cover it with cotton, and hide any fastenings (velcro, snaps, whatever)
in it? Paint it to taste? I'm probably not explaining this well, but my
thought is that plaster is heavy and can be uncomfortable. As for moving
in it--it's why they call it acting.

Arlys

Denise wrote:
 OH YUCK!!  6 weeks' (or more) worth of dead skin cells and dried 
 sweat. Please don't go there.

What she said! ICK!

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[h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses

2007-08-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all! 

Last year, my vocal consort was entirely outfitted in GFD's for our
winter performances (thanks for the great lecture series, Robin!) :-D
This year, we'ld like to add appropriate headwear. Might anyone be able
to suggest some links or bits of wisdom?

Thanks!
Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] Headwear to go with Gothic Fitted Dresses

2007-08-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Not really. We do medieval and Ren music from England, Italy, France, and
Spain, so it's more of a general look we're aiming for. Just nothing that
covers the ears though.

Thanks! :-)

Arlys

 
 The dress style spans 100 years and several countries, and headdress
 changed by place and time. Do you have a tighter focus on where your
 particular GFDs and your performance impression fit within that?
 
 --Robin
 
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Re: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen

2007-07-20 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Ooo yum! :-D Who?

Thanks!

Your note re: splitting the silk thread was very interesting and a
definate keeper!

Arlys

On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:20:17 +0200 Bjarne og Leif Drews
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 I have also a supplier of very fine batiste linnen. My one is 100 % 
 linnen. 
 But its very expensive, no bargains here, you have to pay for it!
 I have 3 meters waiting for a new shirt with cotton lace trimmings.
 
 Bjarne
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 9:06 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] Re: batiste weight linen
 
 
 Hi De,
 
 That *might* be the cambric I found. It's at least as light as 
 batiste, if 
 not moreso. I can only get it wholesale and have to buy in bulk. In 
 North 
 America, I  get it from Ulster Linen. I believe they also have a 
 parent 
 company somewhere in the UK.
 
 Kathy
 
 Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with 
 a rose 
 Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
 (Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules.
 It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
 -George Eliot
 Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge.
 Where the spirit does not work with the hand, there is no art.
 -Leonardo da Vinci
 Once upon a time there was a discussion on batiste weight linen and 
 a source
 was posted. I thought I saved the URL but I can't find it in my link 
 files.
 Could someone with the link please post it and post (if you 
 remember) the
 name of that type of linen as I know it isn't batiste.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving 
 junk email 
 the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail at 
 http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=ca
 
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Re: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix

2007-07-16 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi Harry Potter fans!

may we come to a concensus here and now about the last book, due to be
released in the US July 21? Please, no discussing it on the public list
for at least a month! No spoilers, ok?

thanks!
Arlys, another fan

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 19:22:52 -0700 zelda crusher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 
 
 
 Only very low, fushia heels!  I think her sense of height, which I  
 didn't
 notice that much, might come from camera angles, and the fact that 
 she  
 stands
 on a dias to teach while the students are seated, and such.  I'm 
 not  sure 
 if
 there was a conscious effort to make her look tall and commanding.
 
 I didn't think she looked tall at all in the movie.
 
 What I found so interesting is that I, at least, don't usually 
 associate
 pink with a mean character.
 
 I think that and the kittens on the wall and her constant smiling 
 were 
 intended to point up the fact that she was the 
 evil-that-thinks-itself-good.
 Either that or pink is the new black, lol!
 
 Laurie
 
 
 
 ** Get a sneak peak of the 
 all-new AOL 
 at
 http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
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 http://newlivehotmail.com
 
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[h-cost] David Brown Book Company Fall releases

2007-07-09 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Yeah, ok--BAD ARLYS!!! BAD, BAD, BAD!!!

Feel better now?

Me either. ;)

Had a question re: Eleanor of Toledo's gown--is her dress appliqued and
embroidered, or?

Some books of interest. For full info, check out their website and/or
request a catalog. 
www.oxbowbooks.com

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580, reprinted 2007, 99.50.

Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII by Maria Hayward. A detailed study.
Trade pb $96.00; hb 228.

The Bertier-Delgarde Collection of Crimean Jewellery in the British
Museum and Related Material by Julia Andrasi.  A study of medieval
jewelry of the Crimea. Pb $60.00.

Late Antique and Medieval Gems--Jeffrey Spier. Covers through the
Renaissance. Hb $297.00.

a very non-apologetic Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread

2007-07-04 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Have you seen Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_? Gorgeous book, lots
of historic bits, very helpful to anyone wanting to do this type of work.
Publisher info is: London, B.T.Batsford, 2004. This is a brand new
edition. Lots of color plates. $24.95 trade paperback. 

Arlys

On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 11:11:03 +0200 (CEST)
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 On Mon, 2 Jul 2007, otsisto wrote:
  Will this help?
  http://www.sallymilner.com.au/framedetail.php?Book_ID=249
  
 http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1220_gothic/craftsperson.php
  http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_goldwork.html
 
 Thank you! The book looks scrumptious. :) Do you have it? I'm 
 wondering
 if there's enough info relevant for my period to warrant the cost of
 buying it for this particular project.
 
 Ingrid
 
 -- 
 This email has been scanned for viruses  spam by Domenebutikken - 
 www.domenebutikken.no
 Denne e-posten er sjekket for virus  spam av Domenebutikken - 
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Re: [h-cost] Medieval gold thread

2007-07-04 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Have fun! I had to bring a towel. ;)

Arlys

On Wed, 4 Jul 2007 17:07:41 +0200 (CEST)
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ingrid_G=2E_Storr=F8?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 On Wed, 4 Jul 2007, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
 
  Have you seen Jane Lemon's _Metal Thread Embroidery_? Gorgeous 
 book, lots
  of historic bits, very helpful to anyone wanting to do this type 
 of work.
  Publisher info is: London, B.T.Batsford, 2004. This is a brand new
  edition. Lots of color plates. $24.95 trade paperback.
 
 That sounds great! I found it at $18.21 from Amazon, which is cheap
 enough to buy just to check it out anyway. My copy should be on its 
 way
 soon, yay! Thanks. :)
 
 Ingrid
 
 -- 
 This email has been scanned for viruses  spam by Domenebutikken - 
 www.domenebutikken.no
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Re: [h-cost] Luttrell Psalter Period Query

2007-07-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I think it's artistic license.

Arlys

On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 21:08:54 +0100 Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 
 On behalf of a costuming colleague, as I don't know much about this 
 period
 
 I have a query about 14th century hose. Some of the illustrations 
 in
  the Psalter show men wearing hose without shoes or boots. Can you
  direct me to any information about this practice - or am I just
  misinterpreting the images?
 
 Can anyone help - I will pass on information.
 
 Also, can anyone remind me how one joins please - my colleague would 
 
 like to join us.
 
 Suzi
 
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Re: [h-cost] Latest project, red and black

2007-06-28 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Warmest greetings and congratulations! :-D When is your elevation going
to be?

You'll look stunning. :-)

Arlys,
one of your soon-to-be Laurel cousins in An Tir

On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:58:50 +1200 michaela de bruce
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Hello all,
 
 (Sorry if this goes through twice, it appears as if my first mail is
 stuck in my sent folder in gmail)
 
 As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in 
 the
 SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the
 ceremony.
 I have at least got images and progress to show, but won't have much
 more until after as time is pressing (I wear it a week tomorrow) and
 there probably won't be time for uploading and editing of images. It
 feels a little weird posting about an unfinished project;) I am
 writing up my documentation at the same time so I should have that
 after the event too.
 
 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hermann_tom_Ring_001.jpg
 Inspiration portrait.
 
 http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/tag/midwinter
 For a reverse chronological order of everything so far,
 
 Photos of progress so far:
 http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/728885.html#cutid1
 Kranz (wreath), skirt laid flat and sleeves in pieces, testing fit 
 of bodice
 
 http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/736609.html
 Fit of bodice with guards and the pearling of my Haube (caul) and 
 how
 much I had to undo...
 
 I'm worried about the underskirt and ruffs not being done at this
 stage, but everything else is under control. Except my ceremony. 
 Which
 I need to organise later today.
 
 Michaela (SCA Willemyne van Nymegen)
 http://glittersweet.com
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Re: [h-cost] Need a term...

2007-06-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I wonder if it's someone's derivation of 'paniered' slops. As in 'paned'.

Arlys

On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 02:54:28 +1000 Elizabeth Walpole
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 4:23 AM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need a term...
 
 
  I've never heard of pansied slops.  I wonder where the name came  
 from. 
  Aha--another online reference says it came from Winter and  
 Savoy's book, 
  which is almost completely untrustworthy.  I would  treat this 
 term with 
  skepticism until a 16th-century reference can be  found--does 
 anyone have 
  one?
 
  Just curious,
  Melanie
 
 to me it looks like a typo for pained slops, where the typo first 
 turned up 
 would be interesting to track down.
 Elizabeth
 
 Elizabeth Walpole
 Canberra Australia
 ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
 http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/
 
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Re: [h-cost] MCT4 (was: Scandinavian archaeological textiles)

2007-06-26 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Oh WOW, Robin!!! This looks so cool! :D

When will it be available?

May I pass this along to some of my local and kingdom lists?

WOO-HOO!! :-)

Arlys

On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 14:12:38 -0500 (CDT) Robin Netherton
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Someone asked me about the editing on Scandinavian archaeological
 textiles I'm in the middle of, and it occurred to me you all might 
 like a
 sneak peek of the tentative contents of Vol. 4 (2008) of Medieval 
 Clothing
 and Textiles.
 
 Flax/linen production in medieval Russia
 References to scarlet clothing in Norse sagas
 The connection between Italian and Anglo-Saxon terms for wimple
 Linguistic background of coif/cuff
 Analysis of an extant 14th c. coif
 A visual classification method for archaeological textiles
 The Greenland gown and mainland European fashion
 Women's turbans in 15th c. French illuminations
 Henry VIII's quilts
 
 So, the usual range of disciplines (art, literature, archaeology,
 language, history, fashion study), periods (Anglo-Saxon to Tudor), 
 and
 places (Russia, Scandinavia, France, England, Italy). We've also 
 noticed
 that each volume seems to develop clusters in certain topics; this 
 seems
 to be the one for Scandinavia, archaeology, and headgear.
 
 (Yes, the Greenland gown paper is mine, the long-promised 
 publication
 based on my lecture on this topic, which some of you have heard. 
 Even now
 I wish I could do more on it, but I just don't have time to read all 
 the
 books I want to read...)
 
 Of course this all assumes I don't go mad. I'm in the midst of 
 copyediting
 footnotes in at least eight languages, written by people whose 
 native
 languages are (respectively) Italian, Finnish, Danish, Norwegian, 
 and
 Swedish as well as English. A little much for someone with only 
 French,
 though it's odd to realize I'm understanding more and more of the 
 Danish
 and Norwegian at first glance.
 
 --Robin
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Baggy pants (OT but who cares?)

2007-06-19 Thread Cynthia J Ley
 Very true. All you say is true. It does look stupid on anyone over  
 16. And 
 banning them in a classroom or at the local Country Club is  
 actually OK with 
 me. But for the town to make it a CRIME!... with a fine  and all. 
 Not funny.

I agree. It screams of harkening back to sumptuary laws.

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore

2007-06-19 Thread Cynthia J Ley
 8 platform shoes,
 
 -C.

Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?

High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9, I
never had to be concerned about being 'tall' either. ;)

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?

2007-06-05 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I'm a part-time multi-discipline writing tutor for a local community
college. About 80-90% of my clients are second language students. It's a
very enjoyable way to pay of Grad School.

My husband's grateful I'm an embroiderer, not a costumer. ;)

Arlys

On Tue, 5 Jun 2007 07:52:17 -0400 lauren inzer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 I work for an optometrist.  As far as funding my costuming...I have 
 to
 budget just a small bit out of each paycheck.  My bigger 
 undertakings
 sometimes will take months to save for.  Right now I've been 
 savining for
 about six months to start a 15th century italian.
 
 Arnora

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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise grande panier.

2007-06-03 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Stunning, as always!

Thanks for sharing. :-D

Arlys

On Sun, 3 Jun 2007 14:47:34 +0200 Bjarne og Leif Drews
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Hi,
 Just wanted to share, i happily got to make the dress before she 
 comes and 
 pick it up friday next week.
 I dont think i have ever worked so hard in my life before, sewing 
 wise, 
 never a moments piece.
 http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm
 
 
 Bjarne
 
 
 
 
 Leif og Bjarne Drews
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk
 
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
 
 
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[h-cost] hand rolling veil hems

2007-05-23 Thread Cynthia J Ley
I know I posted about this before, and many of you kind and knowledgable
people gave me great instructions (although I admit a certain fondness
for the one that takes you through a series of steps, followed by the
explicit directive of Curse). ;) The problem is that all of these
wonderful instructions were sitting in my e-mail inbox, which last night
got sucked --in its entirety--into a black hole or otherwise vanished
into another plane of existence. Could you please be so good as to
repost?

Many thanks!
Arlys
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[h-cost] Re: new costume and textile books from DBBC

2007-05-17 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Don't shoot the messenger! blame it on Ian at David Brown Book Company!
;)

Arlys



 A quick note to let you know that two long-awaited books have now 
 arrived here for sale, as well as to tell you about a few other new 
 arrivals from unusual sources...
 
 Firstly, the reprint of the visually stunning Moda a Firenze 
 1540-1580 has arrived from Italy. We managed to secure a reasonably 
 good number of copies, but there's no guarantee that we will get 
 more once these are sold. Act soon if you want one!
 
 Secondly, Penny Rogers' Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon 
 England arrived yesterday to cheers and whoops of delight in the 
 office. Many of you have already ordered this and we are shipping 
 these orders over the next few days, but if you haven't yet done so, 
 now's the time!
 
 Thirdly, hot off the packet steamer from Norway is the mammoth book 
 on the textile finds from the Oseberg ship excavation. We had to 
 fork out many Norwegian Kronas for this one just so that you 
 wouldn't have to. A pricey, but significant book for the diehards.
 
 Finally, we received a fascinating-looking two-volume work from 
 Denmark. Kriegskunst und Kanonen presents Joannes Bengedans' 
 handbook (from around 1450) for the manufacture of explosives, 
 techniques for the use of cannons and siege tactics. The volumes 
 include a beautiful facsimile of the manuscript (which is in a 
 Copenhagen University collection) and gives a translation into 
 modern German and Danish of the text. It's a really stunning set and 
 remarkably reasonably priced.
 
 Links to all four books are given below. I hope you will find them 
 interesting.
 
 With regards,
 
 Ian Stevens
 The David Brown Book Company
 Tel: 1-800-791-9354
 
 Links to these three books are given below.   
 
 -
 
 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo Stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua 
 influenza' - by Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli 
 List Price: US$ 99.50 * Our Price: US$ 90.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=48785MID=12830
 
 'Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo Saxon England, AD 450-700' - by 
 Penelope Rogers 
 List Price: US$ 39.95 * Our Price: US$ 32.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=60262MID=12830
 
 'Oseberg Textiles - Osebergfundet: Bind IVb' - edited by Arne Emil 
 Christensen and Margarita Nockert 
 List Price: US$ 225.00 * Our Price: US$ 200.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=47636MID=12830
 
 'Kriegskunst und Kanonen (Artillery and the Art of War): Das 
 Büchsenmeister- und Kriegsbuch des Johannes Bengedans' - edited by 
 Hans Blosen and Rikke Agnete Olsen, with contributions by Aage 
 Anderson, Bendt Falkesgaard Pedersen and Frede Storborg 
 List Price: US$ 83.95 * Our Price: US$ 70.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=62166MID=12830

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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
In blackwork, double running is the primary stitch, but it's not the
stitch which creates the doublesidedness. It's the actual pattern--i.e.,
how it is executed.

Arlys

On Sat, 5 May 2007 23:02:40 -0500 (CDT) Robin Netherton
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 On Sat, 5 May 2007, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
 
  There are lots of examples from this period both in English and
  Italian art where the collar/cuffs are embroidered with the
  implication that both sides will be seen -- more can be 
 forthcoming if
  you need additional examples.  I don't know what the earliest such
  example is, though.
 
 I've sent my contact the images already cited as proof-of-concept 
 for
 Tudor period, and the information posted here that there were 
 stitches
 that could be reversible. That's a good start, but for publication
 purposes she needs a published source on the stitch types for that 
 period
 (as seen in real examples); is there a book that examines historic
 stitching with close regard to period, e.g. not just saying this 
 stitch
 is medieval but rather these stitches appear in X type of 
 artifacts from
 Y time and Z place?
 
 Holy grail here would be examples of embroidery from c. 1400 clearly 
 meant
 to be viewed on the reverse. Possibly not available, though. Extant 
 pieces
 from 1400 are a lot rarer than from 1550.
 
 But it's not my area so I don't know all the standard sources the 
 way I do
 in my own specialties.
 
 --Robin
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
 There is a form called Assisi work, uses the same stitches as 
 blackwork, but 
 was often worked in red, and I believe there's extant examples of 
 that from 
 the 12th cen. (1100's).  I'll see what I can dig up.
 
 Melusine 

It's my understanding that the actual pattern on Assisi (voided) work is
done in running stitch (also used in blackwork), but that the filling
stitch was cross or some such. Hope someone here fills the void between
my ears. ;)

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Thanks! :-)

Arlys

On Sun, 6 May 2007 10:32:04 -0600 Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Usually done in a form of long-armed cross stitch, as far as I know.
 --Sue in Montana
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Cynthia J Ley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 10:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery
 
 
   There is a form called Assisi work, uses the same stitches as 
   blackwork, but 
   was often worked in red, and I believe there's extant examples 
 of 
   that from 
   the 12th cen. (1100's).  I'll see what I can dig up.
   
   Melusine 
  
  It's my understanding that the actual pattern on Assisi (voided) 
 work is
  done in running stitch (also used in blackwork), but that the 
 filling
  stitch was cross or some such. Hope someone here fills the void 
 between
  my ears. ;)
  
  Arlys
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-06 Thread Cynthia J Ley
 So, questions:
 
 1. Is my memory correct -- is this indeed a characteristic of 
 blackwork?
 Or any other kind of historic embroidery style?

Some, but not all, blackwork is reversible, and if it is, it is perfectly
suited to cuffs and hankies and napkins where both sides will be seen.

That said, this ability to be reversible for some patterns may be a happy
accident which occurs owing to the combination of the particular pattern
and double running stitch. A happy accident that people kept using.

I look forward to further responses too. I've often wondered about
pre-Tudor blackwork (Spanish work? Blackwork by any other name?) as well.
Thanks for bringing this up Robin! :-)

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] Metrosexual???? OT

2007-05-05 Thread Cynthia J Ley
As far as I can tell, the word means something along the line of being a
sophisticated clothes horse. Sexual preference has nothing to do with it.

May I express personal annoyance that people are using this term for
historic figures? Just like Hildegard of Bingen was a liberated
women--yeah, right. :/

Arlys

On Sat, 5 May 2007 11:48:23 -0700 Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Okay, this may be a little off topic, but since I heard it on the 
 Tudor Fashion special (TFS) on showtime, maybe it isn't too bad.  I 
 heard the word Metrosexual (MS) for the first time in my life 
 earlier this week in reference to what I can't remember, then I 
 heard it yesterday for the second time on the TFS, and just now on 
 NPR on Wait Wait Don't Tell Me.  NPR's discussion implies that it 
 is another word for homosexual, the TFS refered to Henry VIII as a 
 MSwhat the heck is everyone talking about???  Someone who 
 copulates with everything they can get their hands on??
 
 Dumb in Buckwheat, AZ
 
 Sg
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems

2007-04-30 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)

Arlys

On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:42:27 -0400 LLOYD MITCHELL
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 How right you are!
 
 Kathleen
 - Original Message - 
 From: Carmen Beaudry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 12:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] hand rolled hems
 
 
  Sorry for the late reply myself, but.
 
  I'm doing some silk organza scarves (not historic, before anyone 
 panics 
  [1]). The fabric is 60 wide, so the hand rolled hem is very long 
 - and I 
  hate hand-sewing with a red passion, so I'm always trying to 
 figure out 
  how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this 
 weekend. As 
  long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin 
 the edge 
  under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the 
  unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem 
 toward me 
  with the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while 
 rolling at 
  the same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the 
 left hand 
  is preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your 
 elbow no 
  lower than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which 
 is Not 
  Good. This goes fast!
  (snip)
  Melanie / Lijsbet
 
  This is pretty much how a sewing clamp/bird works.  It makes 
 pretty much 
  all hand sewing Much faster.  I have two reproduction sewing 
 birds.  One 
  stays clamped next to my sewing machine for handwork in the sewing 
 room, 
  the other travels with me, since I found out I can clamp it to the 
 edge of 
  my travel sewing box.  I do about 1/3 of my sewing by hand, so 
 this has 
  really speeded things up for m.
 
  Melusine
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Re: [h-cost] 1580s open robes and closed robes or ropas

2007-04-29 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Oh bother! Can't remember the exact name of the stuff right now. It was a
fine gauzy stuff that was either pinned or possibly sewn on as an
oversleeve (I'm guessing pinned was more likely). One theory is that it
may have been put on to protect the handwork on the sleeves, but it's
just a theory

Neat site!

Arlys

On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 09:07:58 -0700 zelda crusher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 
 Melanie,
 
 What are the diaphanousthingscovering her lower sleeves?  
 Looks like 
 the artist was going for a soap bubble effect or something...
 
 Laurie
 
 http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownLady50.jpg
 
 
 _
 Don’t quit your job – Take Classes Online and Earn your Degree in 1 
 year. 
 Start Today! 

http://www.classesusa.com/clickcount.cfm?id=866146goto=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.
classesusa.com%2Ffeaturedschools%2Fonlinedegreesmp%2Fform-dyn1.html%3Fspl
ovr%3D866144
 
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[h-cost] hand rolling hems

2007-04-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. I need to hand roll a veil hem and have never done it before.
Could someone please give me instructions?

thanks!

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] hand rolling hems

2007-04-27 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Thanks to everyone for their help!

Arlys

On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 16:56:35 -0700 Carmen Beaudry
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
 
  Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between 
 your
  thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. 
 Snip
  off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
  hand. Repeat.
 
  I'll confess this is how I've always done it. But not long ago -- 
 maybe
  even on this list? -- I read of a quicker technique that had to do 
 with
  making a tiny fold and stitching alternately above the raw edge 
 and then
  into the edge of the fold; take a few stitches, pull, and the hem 
 rolls
  itself. But I may be missing a step or trick here, and it probably 
 matters
  exactly how you point the needle. I am half-remembering a diagram 
 which
  may have been on a webpage or may have been someone's ASCII 
 drawing on the
  list. Does this ring bells for anyone?
 
  --Robin
 
 Yes it does.  I sent a file with illustrations to the original 
 poster 
 privately, since this list doesn't take attachments.  It also helps 
 to use a 
 sewing clamp as a third hand to keep the fabric taut.
 
 Melusine 
 
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Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue

2007-03-30 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Emma,

You might try soaking them overnight first and see if the labels and goo
can be scraped off.

Arlys

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[h-cost] some stellar finds from David Brown/Oxbow Books

2007-02-23 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Sorry to do this to your pocketbooks.


Arlys

 
 I have three books to mention today, all of which could interest 
 those who are excited by the medieval and renaissance world and, 
 more specifically, the clothing and costume of those times.
 
 Firstly, we have struck a deal with Italian publisher, Polistampa, 
 to take copies of a book they published a couple of years ago and 
 which sold out very quickly. It is about to be reprinted and we will 
 have copies in April (my guess). 'Moda a Firenze, 1540-1580' 
 presents a collection of illustrated essays in both Italian and 
 English on costume and fashion inspired by Eleonora di Toledo's 
 arrival at the Medici court. It's a stunning book, brimful of 
 illustrations. Secure your copy now, before it sells out again.
 
 Going back a millennium or so, we are also going to be handling 
 Penny Rogers' much-anticipated 'Cloth and Clothing in Early 
 Anglo-Saxon England'. The book is due to appear in the next month or 
 so in England and I am hoping we will have copies in April.
 
 Links to both the above titles are given below. We are giving as 
 much information as we can (tables of contents, sample pages etc.) 
 and we're also offering good introductory prices on both books.
 
 The third book is one I have mentioned before: The Luttrell Psalter. 
 We are selling the British Library's amazing new facsimile edition 
 and the introductory price of $650.00 is good until the end of 
 March. After that it will be $750.00. Again, a link is provided 
 below. It's pricey, but it's beautiful. Prompted by a couple of 
 customers (we do listen sometimes!), we have decided to offer the 
 book on a 'lay away' basis to spread the financial burden. Write to 
 me for details. But remember: the price goes up after March 31st.
 
 Three very special books. I hope we tickle your fancy.
 
 With regards,
 
 Ian Stevens
 The David Brown Book Company
 Tel: 1-800-791-9354
 
   
 
 -
 
 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo Stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua 
 influenza' - by Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli 
 List Price: US$ 99.50 * Our Price: US$ 90.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=48785MID=12830
 
 'Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo Saxon England, AD 450-700' - by 
 Penelope Rogers 
 List Price: US$ 39.95 * Our Price: US$ 32.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=60262MID=12830
 
 'The Luttrell Psalter: A Facsimile' - with an introduction by 
 Michelle P Brown  
 List Price: US$ 750.00 * Our Price: US$ 650.00 *
 Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=48244MID=12830
 
 -
 To change your user profile follow this link:

http://www.oxbowbooks.com/elist.cfm/Location/DBBC/EmailAddress/Cley%40jun
o%2Ecom
 
 To unsubscribe from this list follow this link:

http://www.oxbowbooks.com/un_sub.cfm/Location/DBBC/MailingListID/12830/Em
ailAddress/Cley%40juno%2Ecom
 
 
 
 

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Re: [h-cost] medieval book with pictures

2007-02-23 Thread Cynthia J Ley
the Manesse Codex is available online. Just google 'Manesse Codex.'


There's a wonderful version of it in the original German. All photos are
thumbnails which can be enlarged. Much fun. :-)

Arlys

On Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:19:14 -0800 (PST) Zuzana Kraemerova
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 P.S.: If someone knew of a manuscript such as the codex manesse 
 reprinted in a book, it would be very nice:-))
  
 -
 Never miss an email again!
 Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it out.
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Re: [h-cost] name of a hat?

2007-01-03 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Having been up for 5 minutes, my brain isn't working yet, but you might
google 'Cynthia Virtue website'--she has a bunch of info on them and
other period hats, incl. how to make them.

Arlys

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 16:47:34 -0800 (PST) Julie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 What is the correct name of the medieval hat commonly referred to as 
 the coffee filter hat?  It looks like a sailor's hat without any 
 crown and usually involves a chin strap and a hair net.
 
 I finished one over the holidays.  Looks pretty good but I don't 
 know what to call it so I can turn it in as an arts project GG
 
 Julie
 
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Re: [h-cost] CIETA Embroidery Newsletters

2007-01-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley
!!! Thanks Beth! :D

Arlys

On Sun, 31 Dec 2006 20:32:38 -0600 Beth and Bob Matney
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 This site might be of interest:
 http://www.annatextiles.ch/newslet/newsint.htm
 
 Includes the CIETA Embroidery Newsletters from Dec. 1995 to Sept 
 2006
 
 You might also find her home page 
 http://www.annatextiles.ch/index.html of 
 interest.
 
 Beth
 
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Re: [h-cost] Schuette was RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-31 Thread Cynthia J Ley
OUCH!!!  

Many years ago, a friend asked me to check it out for her, so I found it
via ILL through a library that didn't haven't it in the reference
section. However, having severe unchecked RA at the time, there was no
bloody way I could carry the thing and it didn't fit in my backpack. I
called her boyfriend who was a taxi driver and requested book escort
service. He came and got me, in a state of disbelief UNTIL he saw the
book.

And I got a free ride home for my trouble. ;)

Arlys

 I don't know about two strong men, but the last time I took the pair 
  
 of volumes out of the library I decided to save my bad back by  
 carrying it balanced on my head ... and ended up getting a pinched  
 cervical nerve that ended up sending me to the emergency room in  
 extreme pain.  So this is clearly a dangerous book in more than the  
 usual financial sense!
 
 Heather

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Re: [h-cost] Schuette was RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-30 Thread Cynthia J Ley
The Schuette at the library takes two strong men to carry, so Wanda's is
the one you speak of?

Arlys

On Sat, 30 Dec 2006 16:42:35 -0600 Beth and Bob Matney
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in b/w). 
 Praeger 
 1964 edition?
 
 Beth
 
 At 01:00 PM 12/30/2006, you wrote:
 Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2006 23:23:00 -0800
 From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  By Schuette do you mean the little Pictorial History of 
  Embroidery or the
 whacking great tombstone size two volume edition?  Remember that I 
 have the
 little one, and Multnomah County Library, Portland, OR (our little 
 town) has
 the big one.  We have GOT to arrange to spend a day or so 
 photographing the
 big one with my digital camera.  If that works it's DVD time!
 
 Wanda
 
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Re: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-19 Thread Cynthia J Ley
 Or you buy a much cheaper, but very useful small book by a former 
 curator of the Museum of London, called Embroiderers which also 
 has 
 information about Opus Anglicorum.
 
 http://www.alibris.com/search/books/author/Staniland,%20Kay
 
 Suzi

Have it. Staniland's great. Think my local library carries Shuette.

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery/Staniland

2006-12-19 Thread Cynthia J Ley

 She'll be pleased to hear you are a fan - she currently has a 
 broken thumb and is feeling very under the weather!
 
 Suzi

Major bummer, esp. for someone so into fiber arts! Wish her speedy
healing for me.

Arlys
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[h-cost] question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-17 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. I'm researching embroidery materials and keep bumping into
references that mention floss silks. Might anyone know how early these
were used and/or have some possible sources they could point me to?

Thanks!

Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] Re: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-17 Thread Cynthia J Ley
On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 15:29:09 -0800 (PST) Kathy Page
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Arlys,
 
 I can happily confirm they go back *at least* as far as the 
 sixteenth century in Sicily, having had first hand experience with 
 stranded floss silks in use. They sewed garments and made lace with 
 them, in my experience.

Very nice! They also appear in the Hardwick (Elizabeth of Shrewsbury)
inventories, as polychrome floss silks used for cushion covers
(_Elizabethan Treasures the Hardwick Hall Embroideries by Santina Levey,
pg 47_).
 
 I can even help you find some to experiment with. ;-) The store 
 exists, but is not ready yet for orders. email me off list if you 
 are interested.

thank you. I've been working in floss silk for years--it's loverly stuff
for a lot of things, incl. blackwork. I'm trying to trace its history a
bit. :-)

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review

2006-11-14 Thread Cynthia J Ley
One thing that may help is to have your hair in a not perfectly clean
state. Oiler hair holds together better.

Arlys,
who has the same problem you do

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Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

2006-11-08 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Wed, 08 Nov 2006 12:03:41 -0600 Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  13 waist?
   
  Baloney!

Check out the Guiness Book of World Records. They have a tiny measurement
for a modern woman you and I would consider average-sized, but darned if
I can remember what the exact measurement was!

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] neat idea for those who draft

2006-10-02 Thread Cynthia J Ley
They're the same size as the typical b  w marbled ones, only the covers
are black with white quadrille on the top half of the page and ruled on
the bottom half. I don't know if they come in different colors. 100
sheets, 200 pages.

Planning on using mine a lot. :-)

Arlys 



On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 10:32:12 -0700 Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Ooh, will have to look for this...what do they look like?  Do they 
 have that typical black and white cardboard cover, or are they 
 plastic covered
   - Original Message - 
   From: Cynthia J Leymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 ; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 ; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 2:32 PM
   Subject: [h-cost] neat idea for those who draft
 
 
   Hi all. Was in Office Max today (in the States) and came across 
 something
   kind of cool. Mead is making composition books where have the page 
 is in
   quadrille form and the other half is college ruled for notes. 
 Handy thing
   for all of us who do embroidery and pattern drafting!
 
   Arlys

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[h-cost] neat idea for those who draft

2006-09-29 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. Was in Office Max today (in the States) and came across something
kind of cool. Mead is making composition books where have the page is in
quadrille form and the other half is college ruled for notes. Handy thing
for all of us who do embroidery and pattern drafting!

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] contracts

2006-08-29 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Thanks! I'll pass this along.
Arlys

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 21:21:24 -0600 (MDT) Rachel Sampsel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Message: 1
 Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 07:26:45 -0700
 From: Cynthia J Ley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] contracts
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain
 
 Hi all. I was wondering if I could ask all you professionals out 
 there
 for some advice. I have a friend who is starting to make 
 high-quality SCA
 garb for sale, and is interested in doing custom work. She was 
 wondering
 about the wording on contracts, whether these be pay for garment or
 barter for garment. Any suggestions that I could share with her?
 
 thanks!
 Arlys
 
 
 
 Tell your friend to be aware that if she puts Barter in 
 writing in a
 contract, she will probably have to report it to the IRS.  
 Technically,
 all barter situations are like that - you're suppposed to report 
 every
 single one to the IRS, but if it isn't in writing, it can be very
 difficult to prove. The minute it ends up on paper, you're stuck 
 with it,
 and then the reporting has to occur. Or you have to get very 
 creative on
 your paperwork when you're selected for a random audit.
 
 Patches
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[h-cost] contracts

2006-08-25 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. I was wondering if I could ask all you professionals out there
for some advice. I have a friend who is starting to make high-quality SCA
garb for sale, and is interested in doing custom work. She was wondering
about the wording on contracts, whether these be pay for garment or
barter for garment. Any suggestions that I could share with her?

thanks!
Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat

2006-07-03 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Wow, oh wow!!! Stunning, Bjarne! Thanks for sharing--seeing your work is
always a treat. :-D

Arlys

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Re: ADMIN NOTE Re: [h-cost] Visit this sites!

2006-07-01 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Thank you. :-)

Arlys

On Sat, 1 Jul 2006 08:35:34 -0600 Elizabeth Lear [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Sorry - I've removed them from the mailing list.
 
 This is the first time we've had such a blatant subscribe so I can
 spam the list; usually the requirement to confirm a subscription is
 enough to discourage those who don't really want to participate.  I
 hope we will not have to add the kind of hoops you need to jump
 through for Yahoo groups and the like, but I will be keeping my eyes
 open for abuse like this in the future.
 
   ...eliz, list admin
 
 -- 
 Children are made up of genetics, blind luck, and the stories you 
 tell them.
  - The Flying Ks
 
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Re: [h-cost] book of interest on dyes

2006-06-13 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi Beth.

May I forward this to other lists?

Arlys

On Tue, 13 Jun 2006 08:42:44 -0500 Beth and Bob Matney
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 This book is being offered at a very good pre-order discount by 
 Amazon.. 
 $81.90 (list price $130).
 
 The book is due out next month (July 30): 500 pages, 560 
 Illustrations. I 
 pre-ordered a copy.
 
 Beth
 
 The following is the publisher's information:
 
 http://www.archetype.co.uk/
 Natural Dyes by Dominique Cardon
 This authoritive resource is an expanded, corrected and updates 
 translation 
 of the award winning book Le Monde des Teintures Naturelles 
 (published 
 2003, Belin,Paris). It is aimed at dyers, designers, artists, 
 weavers, 
 spinners, curators, conservators and restorers, museums, research 
 institutions all those who have a professional or personal 
 interest 
 in or passion for colour.
 Drawing on many years of field and laboratory research, the author 
 presents 
 more than 300 plant and 30 animal dyes in a scientific and technical 
 context within a handsome illustrated volume.
 
 Until the 19th century, natural dyes were the only sources for 
 colouring 
 textiles, leather, bone and ivory, wood, food, cosmetics etc. and 
 were also 
 part of many pigments of the artist's palette. Unlike modern 
 synthetic dyes 
 which, for financial and technical reasons have all but replaced 
 them, 
 natural dyes are not just the result of one particular colourant. 
 They are 
 a synergy of many substances with diverse chemical structures. While 
 many 
 may be colourless in the plant or animal, they are changed by the 
 extraction and production processes into a myriad of colours of 
 unsurpassable richness and subtlety.
 This title is due for publication autumn 2006
 
 CONTENTS
 Part One - the Art of Dyeing
 1. Dyeing methods through the Ages
 2. Mordants : Discovery and methods
 
 Part Two - Dye Plants
 3. Reds, violets, oranges
 4. Anthraquinone red
 5. A yellow world : plants containing flavanoids
 6. The flavanoids which do not dye yellow
 7. The yellows which are not flavanoids
 8. From Cockagne to the cowboys : indigo plants
 9. Beiges, greys, blacks, browns : tannin plants
 10. Lichens and mushrooms for dyeing
 
 Part Three - Purple from shells and Red from insects
 11. Purple : indigo molluscs
 12. Red 'worms' and anthraquinones
 
 Appendix
 Colourants and their chemical structures
 
 ISBN: 190498200x £75.00 / $130.00
 Hardback. 560 Illustrations
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person

2006-05-26 Thread Cynthia J Ley
  I reproduced the cuffs on the Holbein portrait of Queen 
 Jane.  On 60 count linen.  

Oh my! What was your stitch to ground ratio?


And loved it.  And have been doing it ever since.
 At any rate, peerages back then were pretty much all drive-by's, 
 with a
 little more attention paid to the Chiv.  No warning, no special 
 outfits, no
 vigils, nada.  Wham, bam, thank you ma'am...next? sort of thing.  
 The day I
 got nabbed was at an event with really horrible, muddy weather, and 
 I knew
 *something* was up, because someone who'd been trying to get my 
 whole name
 down (spelling and pronunciation) was a little TOO obvious.  (My SCA 
 name is
 in an older form of Irish, and it's long, and pretty unpronouncable 
 to most
 Sasenachs ;o).  Court that night was held in a small building, 
 without
 electricity, just a few coleman lanterns.  My reaction, when I 
 realized it
 was me, and what they were doing, was pretty much oh, shit!  (in a 
 nice
 way).  The scroll was a marker-colored photocopy on some sort of 
 dreadful
 fake parchment, the ink of which ran in the rain that weekend.  The 
 king and
 queen, who happened to be from the Sun and also happened to be the 
 same
 people who'd given me an AoA a couple of years before, were later 
 banished
 from the Society.  

How bizarre.


I am moderately sure I'm mostly a blackwork 
 laurel
 because that was one thing mentioned in the ceremony, although I was 
 really
 involved in other things as well (late period costuming, primarily, 
 and some
 cooking).  It's just that I'm mostly known for itsy-bitsy blackwork. 
  I
 adore the simplicity and clarity of monochrome embroidery, and would 
 really
 love to do some extended research into the various forms it takes in
 different ethnic groups--contrasting, say, the different styles of 
 early and
 late 16th century England, with Spanish, and German, and Italian, 
 and
 French, and all of the loverly, loverly Islamic stuff...*sigh* ;o)

I'm with you. Blackwork has zip nada zilch to do with my persona, but I
love its crispness and surprisingly simple elegance--it's just a matter
of breaking down the pattern elements. Have you found any evidence of
blackwork (in any permutation) in England prior to the Tudors?

 I should add, my Pelican ceremony (that's a service award, for you
 non-SCAers) was even stranger.  I seem to attract weirdness.  (in a 
 nice way)
 --Sue

Time for another storytelling. :-) I was Pel'd sitting down (I can't
kneel), for I suffer from a surfiet of height whereas Her Majesty does
not. My circlet was a beautiful scholar's hood, and Her Majesty had to
be able to reach!

Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] in search of a lost person

2006-05-25 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Wed, 24 May 2006 23:04:42 -0600 Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Oh, cool! There's another one of us! ;o)
 --sue, who got laureled for blackwork, she thinks (wierd peerage
 ceremony...what can I say?)


Pray tell? :-)

Arlys

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[h-cost] in search of a lost person

2006-05-23 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Would the kind individual who wrote me about blackwork please do so
again? Your letter was accidentally deleted, for which I apologize. :(

Arlys
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?

2006-05-22 Thread Cynthia J Ley
  In discussion with a couple of friends at the weekend, we fell to 
 talking 
  about when we started sewing.  

When I first joined the SCA, I made some rudimentary costumes but never
particularly enjoyed it. What I enjoy tremendously is embroidery and
embellishment, which started when I was looking to learn  a handcraft
that wasn't hard on my arthritic hands. A friend taught me blackwork,
which rocks!

Since then, the arthritis has gotten a lot better with treatment, and I
keep learning more medieval forms of embroidery. I also create the vast
majority of my designs.

Plus I have pals who love to costume, and are darned good at it.

And two cats who have learned that Mama's silk threads are nothing to
tamper with.

Arlys

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Re: [h-cost] hello out there??

2006-05-21 Thread Cynthia J Ley
replied to privately.

On Sat, 20 May 2006 21:06:43 -0700 Marie Schnoor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Cynthia J Ley wrote:
 
 The class is for my Kingdom's Royal University, and it will be 
 taught at
 a local (Portland area, OR) event in August. I've taught it before, 
 but
 there's always stuff to refine.
 
 Arlys
 
   
 
 *Hears Portland and perks up* Oh? An Ithra in August? Do tell...
 
 Marie :)
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[h-cost] hello out there??

2006-05-20 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday (Friday)
morning. Everything ok?

Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] hello out there??

2006-05-20 Thread Cynthia J Ley
Thanks, Sue. :-)

Feel like discussing latest projects?

Arlys

On Sat, 20 May 2006 08:48:46 -0600 Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 You came through just fine, Arlys.  At least, on my end.
 I think it's just really quiet
 --Sue, checking email before heading out to the gardens.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Cynthia J Ley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:10 AM
 Subject: [h-cost] hello out there??
 
 
  Hi all. Have recieved nothing from this list since yesterday 
 (Friday)
  morning. Everything ok?
  
  Arlys
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Re: [h-cost] hello out there??

2006-05-20 Thread Cynthia J Ley


On Sat, 20 May 2006 15:06:09 -0600 Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
 Sure! Always! giggle
 I've got a variety of things going at the moment, some of them 
 peripherally
 (sp?) associated with historical costuming, in that they're 
 fiber-related.
 I'm preparing wool and yarns at the moment (getting them ready for a 
 weekend
 natural dyeing workshop next weekend), and some of that will become
 historical clothing and accessories.  I've got myself about a pound 
 What's going on in your neck of the costuming world?
 --Sue

Oh gosh, nothing nearly as exciting as what you're doing! :-) Mamluk,
huh? I have a friend who needs to talk to you!

My project right now involves revamping a blackwork class that I'll be
teaching in August--I am digging out docs and pictures, and making
another sampler to go with the class. I don't costume at all, but enjoy
the discussions and take classes when I can so I can understand it
better--I just don't have time for it, as music and embroidery keep me
very busy! ;)

I'm also working on improving my SCA persona kit. From a costuming end, a
friend is making me a GFD in the next month or so. Yay!

Arlys


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