[h-cost] Re: o/t cat on a hot tin roof
Dear Bjarne . This time i want to try and make the hoop with padded panels along the top bones, in order to keep the tension of the side extensions nice and smooth for the skirts. I have looked very close after a fashion print of Galleries des Modes where a millinery lady is delivering goods, amungst other things a hoop wich she carries under her arms. Also the small hoop from VA has padding, so i guess its ok to do it. Is this on 18C panier? I am intrigued - I am going to make a toile of the french 'panier' shown in Waugh, where she shows two panels (which I presume are the same for front and back) then a sort of triangle which gets made into the waist ties... It's not very clear but she doesn't mention padding! It would make sense though, to keep the sides smooth as you say. When i get my laces, i think i am going to explode of excitement. From here in Scotland? Oo - do post a picture when they arrive, it sounds very exciting and today we have snow and rain, so it needs brightening up with something pretty! p.s. I am going to buy the red brocade with silver motifs :-) ___ What kind of emailer are you? Find out today - get a free analysis of your email personality. Take the quiz at the Yahoo! Mail Championship. http://uk.rd.yahoo.com/evt=44106/*http://mail.yahoo.net/uk ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: fabric for robe a la francaise
Many thanks for all the feedback on appropriate fabric: I will hunt out some nice cotton for my own personal use but for the show (eek) will probably get something a bit more flash. I am indeed a slave to the shiny (taffeta) stuff! I found this UK supplier and they have one or two options that I'd appreciate your views on, http://www.fabricland.co.uk/taffetas.htm specifically - the midnight serpent taffeta, the embroidered cream taffeta (with pale blue flowers) or, perhaps, the faux silk taffeta gold - or is that embroidery too reekingly modern? I'd like something that at least has a /feel/ of the period... http://snipurl.com/17ho1 in silver perhaps? http://snipurl.com/17hoa not very period in colour maybe but rather lush anyway - thank you again and perhaps I should just get on with it rather than stress about a fabric that I've not even bought yet! ;-) gratefully, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ The all-new Yahoo! Mail goes wherever you go - free your email address from your Internet provider. http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] fabric for robe a la francaise
Dear List I am about to make a final (i.e. not in calico/muslin) robe a la francaise: its primary purpose will be display for photographs and showing at wedding fairs etc., to try and persuade people that period clothing is lovely etc etc. Now I'm swithering about fabric - the two choices are a) expensive, pretty and therefore out of my league, realistically or b) sort of appropriate, synthetic and more obtainable. Since I'll end up having to use a cheaper fabric this time around, does anyone have recommendations on what is more appropriate? OK, I can't be completely authentic but I'd rather avoid something that screams 'upholstery' and puts of anyone who knows anything about the period. (Suppliers in the UK would be stupendous, but even links to pics of semi-appropriate would be terribly useful and appreciated). Many thanks! Katherine p.s. got Dangerous Liaisons catalogue for Christmas - yummmy!!! A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ What kind of emailer are you? Find out today - get a free analysis of your email personality. Take the quiz at the Yahoo! Mail Championship. http://uk.rd.yahoo.com/evt=44106/*http://mail.yahoo.net/uk ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: prices on e-Bay
I agree, but when you look at the quality of what is /generally/ on sale on eBay, not everyone is going to be able to spot the difference between a beautifully researched, exquisitely sewn garment and something a teenager in Germany (or a room full of badly paid women in any part of the world) is knocking out from cheapola fabric on their overlocker. Sad but very true. Don't even get me started on my latest client's ideas for her bridesmaids - ... but why can't you do crushed velvet capes for the same price as this person in Poland? **shudder** Katherine, who thinks we need a qBay (q for quality perhaps?) for those who know the difference A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: white cotton gloves
Have you tried the local chemist/pharmacy? I used to buy mine there when i had awful eczema - not incredibly cheap but a really useful thing indeed :-) Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do you make to wear in the heat?
OK, this is not /strictly/ historic - although I could argue they're 'traditional' ;-) Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. The thing I'm a bit unclear on is how the ties work around the waist, to hold them up and fit them at the waist: the Burda pattern is a bit tailored whereas the originals are 'free-size'. I found a few references on the web, in case you've no idea what I'm talking about. http://www.thiptop.co.uk/index.php?page=trousers-split http://www.thaicraftwarehouse.com/tcwProduct.php?fashid=9329 Anyway, what are other people making to cope with this seasonably toasty weather? Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: OT Thai Fisherman trousers
Email me off list if you are interested. Sheridan P. Thanks - will do! They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged trousers, joined at the crotch and inside legs only. You then take the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks and eyes here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the other way around - I find this way easiest.) Suzi That explains everything - thanks again! I'm going to find some cheapo stuff to practice on and some nice linen to make smarter ones... I have seen it done also where people have sort of extended the bottom hem of the pants to make ties at the ankles so that the legs don't flap open or get in the way. Natalie Now there's a thought! Can immediately think of /several/ situations where my Scottish pale-blue thigh would not be an appropriate thing to flash Thanks to all for your help, amazingly useful and informative as always. I know it's quite cheap to buy them but that feels like a bit of a cop out, somehow! Katherine (in front of a fan with feet in a basin of cold water. oh that's better...) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] VA - Italian interior books published in October
Just a heads-up: The VA will be publishing two books this October which look like they will contain a good few paintings of people within interiors from Renaissance Italy, to tie in with another exhibition. It does look like they also refer to dress and jewellery! At Home in Renaissance Italy This beautifully illustrated book is the first to look so comprehensively at the role of the urban Italian house in the development of Renaissance art and culture. 'At Home in Renaissance Italy' brings together a wide range of objects, from furniture and kitchen utensils to popular prints, jewellery and everyday dress, revealing how the homes of the upper- and middle-classes made a crucial contribution to the flowering of the visual arts in 15th- and 16th-century Italy. Drawing on a wide array of sources including letters, treatises, inventories, account-books and archaeological and conservation reports, it offers a completely fresh exploration of the fascinating domestic world of Renaissance Italy. ISBN NUMBER 1851774890 Inside the Renaissance House The Renaissance home was an outward symbol of a family’s status, wealth and erudition, and much care went into its arrangement and furnishing, and the art of household management. 'Inside the Renaissance House' vividly conveys through contemporary illustrations and lively writing the realities of living in Florence and Venice during this innovative era and takes the reader on a room-by-room tour. From the sala, devoted to games, music and entertaining in style, to the bedchamber, which was far from the private space it is today, to the study, full of rare and precious objects, Elizabeth Currie evokes the life that went on in each room. ISBN NUMBER 1851774904 Katherine, off to start saving up her pennies. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] h-cost: subject lines reinventing the wheel
Fran wrote: My opinions are as valid as yours. Ditto, which is why I suggested simply skimming/deleting. To be honest, I can't see how anyone finds the second or two it takes to realise a message isn't worth reading a real and serious drain on their time (since I get the digest). If I'm too busy, I just let the mail pile up and get on with whatever is so important. Maybe you're on too many lists? (I unsubscribed from a lot last year for the same reason, BION). Meanwhile, I am trying to present a constructive solution that might help you and others. Dandy. I gave up subscribing to digests for any list as soon as I discovered filters, precisely because filters are much more efficient. Yup, I filter /lots/ - but the sheer volume here means that a digest is by far the quickest way to get through the noise-to-content and find out what I need. The point is not whether people should be warm-hearted and help each other. The point is whether on an unrelated list they should keep all or most of it to private email. Two things: helping people is - for me - what makes the net useful. Whether that's all the assistance I've had from the people on this list or copying pages from a book for someone or donating stuff after a natural disaster: none of it would be possible without the internet and this list. When it goes off topic - and yup, it does it more than I'd like sometimes - I just zip past. The second is that I don't see the point (and this is /not/ personal) in complaining about it since it really honestly doesn't affect my life that much and people are needing to chat/talk/share unrelated info. If they need to, fine, I don't usually. That's all. Insstead of presenting a situation whether either you or I have to quit h-costume, and perhaps asking other people to take sides as to which of us should quit, why not do or suggest something constructive? I don't think that is an option, is it? It isn't a duel at the OK Corral and I certainly hadn't seen it like that - until you suggested it! As for other folk taking sides... I think that a) we're all adults and b) the debate is rather more about the relative tolerance of chat and noise outside costuming. That is going to vary with each individual and how they feel that hour/day. It's certainly nothing more personal than that and I assumed you wouldn't take it as such, given previous discussions. IF people feel like saying OT in a header why not see if it works, informally? I know that discussions are often taken off list but it would be a shame if people took costume related chat offline in case anyone got ticked off and we missed out. Me, I'd rather wade through miles of how cool than miss where the original inspiration for the garment/research/technique came from. YMMV, as they say. Katherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
Ack - I just put in an invisible zip in a very non-historic dress but the tab at the top is a) the wrong colour and b) hanging out I tend to use eyelets, laces, pins etc to close clothing for clients but this is a new problem and not one I can work around... Any suggestions? (polite ones thank you). No sign of zips this colour in the locale so I could always take it out and put in a regular one but this is so cool and makes it look like just another seam... until you get to the tab at the top! Katherine the stumped p.s. the zip is cream, the dress is pale green poly-wool crepe and the style is tea-length princess seamed a-line, with slightly flared mid-bicep sleeves and a sweetheart neckline. The customer is /always/ right... A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] invisible zip (ok, not v. historic!)
Thanks to all who replied on and off list: I am going to try the nail varnish - if no luck, then acrylic and if all fails, suggest the paperclip (which is a good idea for me personally but maybe not for my v. nice customer). Katherine (brain stumped by heat as much as anything complicated!) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: h-cost was Subject Lines - Reinventing the Wheel public replies
You don't think it is better to present constructive suggestions as to how _all_ h-costume members can focus on which of the many posts interest them most, than to simply complain, argue about what is acceptable, have people quit the group, etc.? Having done a lot of reading and writing, I'm perfectly capable of skimming the digest titles and then briefly checking I don't miss a nugget of gold in amongst the chat. BTW - As someone who /did/ respond in public in a way that some people find offensive/unnecessarily open/whatever with some personal information, I just want to say TOUGH if you don't like it. You don't have to read my messages, I don't have to read yours - I skimmed hundreds, literally, after the hurricane last year but you know what, I was glad to know everyone was still alive and ok. If I could have helped, I would have been glad to be asked, even though it wasn't costume related. No complaints, no arguing, no quitting - although to be honest I'm considering it after this latest bout of po-faced negativity. What I /would/ like is a way to filter the digest messages. Katherine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: What do you do?
Dear Bjarne you've had lots of good advice from everyone here - I just wanted to add that when I had my last, bad bout of depression (following a period of very hard work, physical illness and not giving myself a break) I didn't enjoy anything, even my beloved singing. I sing everywhere, all the time, all kinds of things and I only realised I was depressed when not one single thing made me feel like singing... Pack your lovely things away, with care, in a safe place. Think about whether you need to talk to someone: I found talking, hypnosis and herbs were what I needed, along with some serious relaxation. If not, and you are really just bored with sewing, then play around until you find something you like - I know there is a system of very good adult colleges in Denmark where lots of subjects are available. Above all, get out and walk every day! If you can borrow a dog or walk with a friend/neighbour, even better. If you can see the sea or a river, even better still! Someone else already said this but long term physical inactivity just brings my mood down without fail... reluctant as I am to admit this :-) Finally, you can email any one on this list - or all of us at the same time - whenever you need to. I kind of wish I'd had the courage to do that last year. It has taken nearly a year to feel more like 'me' again and I am still fighting wavering moods and anxiety but do you know, I am so inspired by your talent and generosity of knowledge, it made me smile to read your messages even when I was still too fragile to see friends in 'real life'. I hope you all don't mind me saying all this but if everyone was open about how yes, sometimes life gets us down even when we're not in what are typically 'awful' or life-threatening situations, perhaps we wouldn't let things get so bad before we asked for help. :-) I'm glad it's not just me! Thanks for your patience everyone, and a big email *hug* to Bjarne. Katherine What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at? When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is left then? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels. Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished.. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice coffe and a big cake :-) Bjarne Dear Bjarne Bravo! That looks beautiful and will be stunning in candlelight - I can almost see you shimmering over dinner with your elegant new wig too :-) Have a wonderful time in Tivoli: I've been to Copenhagen three times now, mainly to visit the Frilandsmuseet but Tivoli is just so magical - the light over the lake from the chinese lanterns in the evening as the sun sets Sigh! Enjoy your well earned cake, Katherine the admiring p.s. I meant to say how fabulous the yellow dress and stays were: I am inspired and will do something similar after my current projects are under control ... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] historical dressmaker in London
Suzi's work is exquisite - and accurate. Try refering your enquirer to her website and especially the FAQ page: http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/ A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright Are you tugging my squirrel? ...I will answer your questions but only in the language of a crow... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] regency stays: seam construction ideas details about 1770s stays
Hello! I am at a crucial stage is making my regency stays: the main three layers (cotton, two of linen, which will then have another cotton layer as the lining) are all basted together and ready to be joined and have gussets inserted. I was really hoping that my visit to the museum today would yield a similar item so that I could examine how they were sewn together but alas - one 1770s set, one around 1900, one around 1895-1900 (they were totally slack on the dating: SO little information...) but nothing inbetween. The photographs in the Kyoto 'Fashion' book aren't close enough up to really show how the pieces are joined. Anyone done a regular seam and then corded it? I'd like to get these done before the end of June so can't wait another six weeks for a museum appointment ( patience being a virtue very foreign to me...) Most intriguing things about the 1760s-1770s stays (most like the 1776 ones in Didero's L'Encyclopaedie) 1. REALLY narrow boning - rounded and no more than 2mm wide. Bents? I don't know, they were still v. flexible, apart from the broad pieces at CB and CF. I'm sure someone knows better than me. 2. The offset lacing: one left side, two holes close together at the top, on the left side, two holes close together at bottom, so you get 12 holes each side but offset. 'Mock lacing' at front but no more than 1inch wide at top and terribly close together (40 rows of fine thread over no more than 6 inches length, narrowing to nothing at bottom). 3. An intriguing pattern which reminded me of a Scottish saltire flag, embroidered at the top between the bones - it being no more than half boned and with very fine boning at that, three on either side of front busk area and two on each back piece (1 1/2 inch high, just a little wider). This wasn't boned in itself and the broad bone which runs around the inner top of the stays was hidden inside the linen lining. Overall they were pretty mucky but seemed to be plain cream linen/cotton, matching thread and plain white linen lining. Tassets sewn separately on lining but NOT on the main pieces. These were very narrow - several about 2inches long and no more than 1/2 inch wide at the top. Hope that is interesting and useful - any more questions, I'll do my best. Photos taken but only for my reference I'm afraid: I can't afford the fees! Cheers, Katherine p.s. I'll post this on historic corsets just in case it misses anyone, sorry if you get it twice. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright Are you tugging my squirrel? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Corset flossing
I have some lovely pictures of the kind of flossing that was used in the late 19th century, but they do not come with instructions. Can anyone point me at a website, or instructions please? Suzi Suzi - I've not found anything about how to actually do it on the web or indeed in any books. However, playing around on a couple of corsets I've found that using two or three strands of cotton embroidery floss (since I'm not going to be washing them), secured with a couple of small stitches inside and then building up the design over and through the spiral from the front works. It is /very/ hard on your fingers especially until you get the feel for the spacing between coils but can be very effective. I'm sorry that I can't be more help but if I find anything will be sure to post it here. Katherine S. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright Are you tugging my squirrel? ...I will answer your questions but only in the language of a crow... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1630s suit again
Dear Cin There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume Museum... Naomi T. has written several books - do you remember exactly which one? I /may/ even try to swing a viewing, since I'm right here in Edinburgh :-) Your practical feedback is also great. I just find modern trousers a real pain in the behind, so don't wear them if I can help it. I think I understand why the closer fitting seam would work - I assume the legs were still full? Thanks again, this is invaluable advice, Katherine S. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright Are you tugging my squirrel? ...I will answer your questions but only in the language of a crow... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1630s suit - breech waist
Dear all I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by Bosse - doublet and breeches, since he already has a shirt and another friend is making his collar and cuffs. What I can't work out is the waist of the breeches: in Historical Costume in Detail, the development seems to be from points laced through the doublet to the outside, forming decorative bows (which remain after their functional job is gone) to using solid metal hooks on the inside of the doublet. None of this sits with the informal wear shown in Bosse, where the breeches are shown sitting at the natural waist or below the paunch since the doublet is generally worn open from mid-chest. Would they be gathered onto a solid waistband and then buttoned (as the flies were buttoned) or was there a 'drawstring' type option? Bucknell shows both styles, from the very wide 'bag' breeches to the narrower 'spanish' breeches, as being fastened to the doublet lining - but wouldn't that give (being blunt) the wearer a bit of a wedgy, especially since they are required for fencing? I hope that someone who has worn or made a pair before has some feedback on their comfort - it's not a style I've ever worn myself and I ain't fond of modern trousers either! :-) Thanks again - it's nice to be doing something different and a new type of research.. Katherine S. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 403
Thank you all so much - that is extremely useful and practical help :-) I've got PoF coming from the library so will draft from that, but definitely go for the elastic trick and hey, if it's not authentic enough then it ain't my wedgy or me sewing the hooks and bars back on... Looking forward to getting started and posting the photos eventually, Thanks again, Katherine S ** Message: 3 Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 15:35:50 +0100 From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] There are good clear patterns in Cut of Men's Clothes by Norah Waugh, and in Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 by Janet Arnold. You will find the Arnold the most helpful I think. (You can lace the breeches to the doublet on the inside, without the bows showing on the outside, or you can make hooks and bars to join them If your friend is planning on being particularly energetic, a theatre trick worth noting is to sew the hooks on so they hang from a short piece of elastic, sewing them to the doublet, and sew the bars to the breeches - it allows a bit more ease than sewing everything on tight.) Message: 5 Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 16:19:49 +0100 From: Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] I made a man's civilian suit for myself when I gave up soldiering (to wear when I didn't feel like trailing round in petticoats). I used a borrowed pattern (Merchant Adventurers, I think). The breeches are gathered onto a solid waistband closed with two buttons, and not attached to the doublet (although I know that is correct for the period). I think most of the men in my group wear breeches with a waistband. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor Message: 6 Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 13:34:02 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yes, the elastic trick is good. And, if you want that open doublet look with a bit of shirt showing at the waist, the breeches [hosen, really I guess if worn with a doublet] can be just hooked or laced across the back. It occurred to me you can lace to tie it up with elastic, if no one sees it. If you look at an etching ... _http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html_ (http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html) _http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html_ (http://www.relewis.com/BosseStudio.html) ...you'll see how high the doublet waist is. A bit of shirt showing in front [as in the man seated at the easel] just emphasizes this fashion trait. Just linking them in the back would work for this. You'll also see how full the breeches are in the crotch...and if the rise of the crotch seam is sufficient in the back, no wedgies. I don't know if it's period or not but you could cut the waistband wider [higher] CB than in the front. And split it CB with a lace there like in some 18th century breeches. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Jane Malcolm-Davies on Radio discussion programme.
Dear List Jane Malcolm Davies, co-author of Tudor Tailor was on a radio show in the UK yesterday, briefly discussing the book, the research behind the book and the origins of her passion for costume and particularly the Tudors. You can hear it again here by clicking listen to most recent programme. http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/factual/midweek.shtml If that doesn't work, a google on Radio 4, Midweek should bring up the relevant programme site. Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! For Good - Sponsor a London Marathon runner - http://uk.promotions.yahoo.com/charity/london-marathon ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] about shaping bones in stays - rigiline
Dear Suzi, Bjarne and others who do stays I'm debating whether to use the plastic whalebone or rigilene: while the narrowness of the whalebone gives what looks to me like a very authentic appearance (with the narrow rows of stitching) it is a) a bit more expensive and b) more work. Rigilene however has ths tendency to flip out of shape, especially over the tummy: do you find (Suzi) that one or two flat steels (rather than spirals) at the front is enough to keep it flat? Do you stitch half way down each piece of rigilene (which would give you a 'channel' of around 5-6mm, like the plastic whalebone)? I'm intrigued, having specialised in victorian corsets so far (and putting off the regency ones because trapunto just looks, um, complicated!) Thanks again, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Switch an email account to Yahoo! Mail, you could win FIFA World Cup tickets. http://uk.mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: talk about tight lacing - historic corset info
Hello Chiara I looked into corseting but found rather quickly that there are no groups out there for those just wanting to know how to do it properly without all the fetish and what not connected to it. Chiara may I suggest you check out the yahoo 'historic corset' group? There are a few familiar 'faces' from this and other lists and it is specifically aimed at those of us only interested in the historic side of things. I know /exactly/ what you mean about other groups... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/?yguid=176556519 HTH Katherine (who's guilty of not posting to the list often enough... maybe tomorrow!) A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sourcing bizarre fabric..
Hello I wimped out on a costume today because I just didn't have the right fabric to make the 'underskirt' or sleeve lining of this dress (the green one Eowyn wears in LoTR: Two Towers) http://www.costumersguide.com/eowyn_green.shtml I've tried as many fabric places as I know (and contacted quite a few in London too) but no luck so far. Has anyone seen anything like the green leaf fabric which is overdyed and crinkly? I just couldn't bring myself to use the too dull but vaguely leaf-like furniture fabric I found... Thank you once again, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: arsenic - napoleon and fine ladies and Costumers in Edinburgh
Hello (I'm catching up!) the random information my brain retains pinged at both of these notes 1. One theory is that the wallpaper in Napoleon's home contained arsenic which was released (as a vapour) by the damp weather, hence arsenic in his hair sample. It didn't actually kill him but made lots of those around ill too. See: http://www.victorianweb.org/history/arsenic.html and numerous other sources. 2. Arsenic gave a fashionable pallor to the face, hence its application (along with lead) by elegant ladies. again http://www.victorianweb.org/authors/mb/rouge.html or http://www.vintageconnection.net/ModesInMakeup.htm Some have even suggested that Mozart died from over-enthusiastic application of face cream! Hello Nicole - I'm in Edinburgh and I love your site! What are you working on now? I'm knee deep in a recreation of Eowyn's green velvet gown for myself for a wedding this weekend (I'm at the toile stage: don't ask, it's a deadline/kamikaze thing). Not strictly historical but fun. Katherine S A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bishop's Lawn - linen or cotton?
This is probably a silly question :-) Could someone tell me if the Bishop's Lawn on sale from Hamon's in Jersey is terribly fine cotton or actual linen? I'm desperate to get some yummy thin linen for shifts etc., but don't want to spring for the shipping from the US (basically I've got to add on more than the cost of the fabric for postage plus another 25% for duty, VAT, etc). Oy. Thank you very much - I already have their phone number sitting next to my phone, thanks to the archive search feature :-) Katherine (who shouldn't actually be buying ANYTHING) A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Bishop's Lawn
As far as I remember it is fine cotton lawn. I have not come across anywhere in England which has very very fine lawn, although the fine lawn at the Cloth House is very fine, but not as closely woven as I would wish. It is £11.50 per metre 150 cm wide. The Cloth House - 47 and 98 Berwick Street, London W1F 0QJ Tel/fax 020 7287 1555 Suzi Thanks Suzi - I'll call them in the morning and see what they've got. Katherine in very very very cold Edinburgh - brrr A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: soir? d?hiver
Bjarne - thank you so much for these lovely photos. What a wonderful weekend you look to have had! Now I want to do 18th century!!! Katherine p.s. can you remind me of the name of the loose gown the gentleman is wearing along with the matching 'turban'? It's gone clean out of my head :-) A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Digest 146
Hello Does anyone still have digst 146? I've been having mail troubles again so would appreciate it if someone, anyone, could forward it to me. Cheers, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT: work at home 'rituals'
Hello all as a fairly new costumer (for money) I am trying to establish a work-from-home pattern that doesn't involve quite so much tv - I know, I know... my brain is rotting as I type. I'm going to try having a special 'sewing uniform' - a work pinafore to cover my clothes - as a signal to my brain that now is work time. I got to wondering if other people have special rituals or procedures they do to separate their time, particularly those who work at home. You never know what useful info could come up, so I hope you forgive this meander slightly OT. Thanks, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Win a BlackBerry device from O2 with Yahoo!. Enter now. http://www.yahoo.co.uk/blackberry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: embroidery dating - more info...
Dear Lorina [much snippage!] Thank you so much for all your help - I have spent a few hours researching orphrey bands and copes and can see how closely these resemble the 15C museum pieces on the web. Wow. I knew they were special but I think, after all, that they are extremely special and definitely museum quality pieces, whether they've been faffed about after construction or not. Only professional restoration houses can undertake such a delicate operation, I am recommending that I do absolutely nothing to them (reluctantly) since they are way beyond the original inquiry, which was just to sew bits of them back up so they could be hung on the wall again... !! I've put my client in touch with professional conservators who are qualified to deal with such amazing pieces and a framer who can put it into a suitable acid-neutral environment behind UV-proof glass. (unless, of course, he decides to donate them to a museum. Since the VA haven't even acknowledged the last thing he sent I have my doubts). How is that you have come to be commissioned to restore these pieces? Ah - the customer also collects antique books and these were part of a collection owned by a late friend of his. His bookbinder (an amazing craftsman) is a friend of mine and when he asked if said bookbinder knew anyone who could carefully sew things together... I've previously done repairs to vestments in church, matching brocade motifs invisibly etc., since charcoal sparks have a fatal attraction for the front of the priest's phelonion (or cape)! Since I'm even worrying about the small repairs to an 1870s bustle outfit I have just bought, there's no way I'd touch these. I'm going to try and sketch them and take more notes though, since they are truly droolsome. When I've done that, I'll be sure to let you all know so you can 'visit' again. Cheers, I'm truly grateful, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Embroidery dating advice
Hi everyone! I've been asked to help stabilise some VERY old tapestry banners - if there are any embroiderers who think they have more of a clue than north european, possibly 17h century I'd be very happy to answer queries on them. More relevantly, the owner also has an exquisite embroidered waistcoat - I get a feeling it is early 19C but it is so vibrant I can't quite believe it. The construction is well illustrated by the photos as is the embroidery. It is still wearable but I've suggested it should be cleaned and packed away from light and other clothes in an acid-neutral environment. Anyone else - who knows more about men's costume - have more of an idea? It feels inspired by India but I couldn't tell you why... http://couthiecouturegallery.fotopic.net/ They're yummy to look at, even if you don't feel you can help :-) Katherine the vague, in a very sunny and cold Edinburgh A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] VA 'In the Round' images
Hi all I just discovered this http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/round/index.html on the VA website: you basically get a 360 view of selected outfits and a wonderful idea of the overall shape and depth of the silhouettes. Hope you enjoy! Bjarne - there is very nice suit that reminded me of some of your creations there, so I thought it might be interesting to you too. HTH Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and
Thanks for all the help - Suzi - thanks for the link to your site: that crinoline is certainly the shape and style I am going for and if you've not had any quibbles from museums, there's no reason why I should from general M.o.t.Ps Deb, I didn't see your reply before it was included in a message so my digest is still skipping but yes, I think I'll go with Suzi's suggestion initially. I found some 'roman blind' tape which would do the job so I just need to check it will take the width of steel - I may order narrower steel so it can be enclosed in a tape (at least that way the ends will look neater). I found some rather coarse red twill tape which looks like a narrow version of the stuff used on this crinoline http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/11182-popup.html The measuring tape steel is (over here in the UK) too wide and does that weird and painful crinkling thing when I try and measure stuff... not sure I want it near my legs, drawers or not! I think the piano cables are about the right size but I'll have to talk to a friend who owns one first. Thanks for the Farthingales link - their 'tutu steel' looks very like what I think the originals were - I'm happy to be proved wrong but I can't find any pictures as close as they need to be to be sure. http://www.farthingales.on.ca/hoopsteel.php I'll check out their overseas ordering policy if I can't find a ballet wholesale supplier over here who can help. We've got a ballet company in Glasgow who may give me a name, if I ask really nice :-) Thanks again - I'll be sure to post a link to a photo when it's done! Yours gratefully, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used cars online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] h-cost digest 107
Hello! Could someone please send me the digest 107? I can't find it in my in-box and Im worried I missed a message for me. Ta very much! Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
Hello all I'm about to make my first crinoline, suitable for wearing with a smallish bustle underneath a late 1860s/early70s gown that I recently bought - it's in a bad way so I'm going to copy it as a pattern then try and restore it. Anyway, a lot of the original hoops that I've seen on museums are made from a kind of sprung wire that is round rather than the flattened steel i've seen in various shops. So far I've not found anywhere that makes the 'olde' type and am therefore assuming that people go with the flattened steel. What I'm aiming to do is make a set of women's undergarments (chemise, bloomers, corset and crinoline) that can be on display so I'd like the crinoline to look as authentic as possible. My copy of Period Costume suggests using the blind-making tape that you can run the steels through and while that is an ACE idea, I'm not convinced it will look good when on display. Has anyone attempted to be uber-authentic in their steel crinoline construction? I'd really appreciate it if there were links to pages or sites anyone could recommend. Google has not turned up anything suitable so far... Thanks again, Katherine, venturing far from her early t-tunic roots. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: the virgin queen
Watched Episode 2 last night. The men's a anachronistic breeches were more obvious this week (though I liked the tennis scenes), and, as someone commented, the women's skirts don't look as though they have enough support (perhaps the designers thought that farthingales would look as odd to modern eyes as they thought trunk-hose would). Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor I know. I don't think I can watch it any more, it's just annoying me EVERY time I see them supposedly being regal and just looking floppy (skirted)... Mind you, Kevin McKidd looked mighty fine playing real tennis :-) so it's not all bad!! Katherine the not easily pleased. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ NEW Yahoo! Cars - sell your car and browse thousands of new and used cars online! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] boning - reed or cable ties
Hi Wanda I would recommend you track down what I've heard called 'artificial whalebone' - it comes in several different widths, from 4mm up to 12mm, has no ridges (like ridgeline)and when you sit down, it doesn't stay bent up at the front like ridgeline does. You have be able to find it quite cheaply if you are in the US - the supplier's I've contacted over here vary considerably. You can get it from either http://www.geocities.com/staymaker/index.htm http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/ or from the manufacturer at http://www.wissner.de/eng/ I just noticed you can get it from Farthingales as 'German boning'. It's not as cheap as cable ties but it is as close to real whalebone as you'll get without that rather brittle tendency that sometimes happens. You can see how good it looks since it is used in The Staymaker's gallery of work. HTH Katherine (who's saving up for it right now) A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] New BBC Elizabethan drama - Virgin Queen
Just in case anyone over here /hasn't/ seen the trailer:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/virginqueen/costume.shtml Rather scant content on the costume but a description of the 'creative process' used by the designer. Quite why they think that an actor can't be sexy in accurate Elizabethan clothing I've no idea... Oh well. The promo pictures show disappointly limp skirts and decidedly modern looking fabric but I'll be happy to be proved wrong! The series begins on Sunday 22nd January on BBC at 9pm UK time. Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Photos NEW, now offering a quality print service from just 8p a photo http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
Dear Joannah - thanks for this reply. I never did see my original post so it must have been in a digest that skipped me. I don't know if anyone else replied so many apologies if it seems I've ignored any of your suggestions! :-) What I've actually done is recut the panel with the strap added on, so it is now on the bias and is joined on to the back panel above the eyelets and lacing. That will, I hope, make it work and it gives a more flattering line as it sits around the top edge of her shoulders - less 'boulder holder', more 'graceful decolletage'! It is a very basic 5 panel mid-Victorian style with gold busk (loops and studs) and made of black coutil covered in a fancy chinese brocade. Very popular for evening wear but the cost (for drafting and draping a toile as well as construction) means I've only sold a few so far, and none with straps. I might put a photo up on my website once it's finished so will repost a link if you like. Thanks for the helpful thoughts, Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] old digests no longer needed thanks
Thank you to Beth for sending me the digests (22-27). I noticed this morning that I got 31 and then sometime later 30, so summat weird is going on... Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] please send me old digests
Hello could someone please send me (OFF LIST) digests 22 to 27 - if they have them? My in box has just not collected them for some reason, although I've had 28 and 29. It's weird to come into conversations half way through! many thanks, Katherine S. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] missing messages?
Hello - is anyone else missing messages? I've not seen a message I posted two days ago and just got digest 26 after digest 24... Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT: non-slip gum for shoulder straps?
Hello all This is /kind/ of costume related - I've just had to design my first corset with straps for a lovely customer who is a) self-conscious and b) lop-sided, after a very dislocating shoulder finally got operated on... What can I say, it doesn't seem to matter how carefully I fit the strap, one or t'other creeps down. Since the corset will be used for ceilidhing and general dancing, she's going to need them to stay in place. Does anyone have a tip on making those gummy strips I've seen on the inside of some ready to wear garments that hold semi-off the shoulder straps in place? I'd thought of some kind of glue or silicon sealant (hmmm - might stain the shiny fabric on top). Many many thanks, Katherine who's based in the UK so some suppliers are out. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Any other photo album site recommendations
Hi Sg I like fototopic.net - it's quite easy to organise and I've got loads of free space. Katherine A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Pride and Prejudice II
jean wrote:when Lizzie is in Derbyshire with her aunt and uncle, where she stands on a hilltop with her skirt blowing out behind her I was so beggging someone to come up and shove her off... I thought: Costumes - ok (suitably rumpled and certain people suitably unfashionable), hair - really annoying: was it intentional to have short bits of dark hair sticking out at the nape of her neck?, etiquette - was likewise shocked at 'bedroom scene' :-) My main peeve were the above 'wuthering' scene and the dawn scene - not that they were inappropriate (one of them was) or badly acted (I've seen worse) but the cinematography, that touched up super-real Keira twenty feet high thing: I enjoyed it apart from those which I felt really jarred and were badly done. Going to see the Libertine with M. Depp next week - from the promos the costumes look very good. Is it another Beavan/Bright collaboration? Apparently the 17th century has never been quite so dirty... Katherine who doesn't care too much about acting if they get the costumes right. A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Model Search 2005 - Find the next catwalk superstars - http://uk.news.yahoo.com/hot/model-search/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] American museum sale notice
UNPRECEDENTED TEXTILE COSTUME SALE Since Thanksgiving, 2004, Charles A. Whitaker and Karen Augusta have been in consultation with the Denver Art Museum to plan one the most important textile and fashion collector events in recent memory, the de-accession of a large portion of the Denver Art Museum's historic clothing collection. This vast collection, much of which has been unseen by the public for over fifty years, will be sold unreserved in a series of auctions run by the Charles A. Whitaker Auction Co. The first sale is to be held November 18th and 19th, 2005 in New Hope, Pennsylvania. The majority of lots for the fall auction come directly from the back rooms and storage facility of this important American museum. Museum de-accessions from The Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Fashion Institute of Design Merchandising and an important private collection of textiles and garments from the Chew family make up the balance of the 2-day, 1090 lot sale. The Chew textiles have been in storage since their removal from Cliveden Mansion, the 18th century National Trust property in Germantown, PA. This auction's offerings span three centuries of textile and costume history. Featured items include a Schiaparelli bead-encrusted jacket, a rare 1920's Chanel evening wrap, wedding shoes dated 1736, 18th 19th C. corsets, rare 18th 19th C. men's, women's and children's clothing, 20th C. couture designer clothing, a 17th C. woven Swedish Biederwind panel, as well as other textiles, fabrics, laces, table bed linens. Historians and costume collectors can now preview a photo gallery of sale highlights and the complete catalogue at the auctioneer's website, www.whitakerauction.com. A full day preview is scheduled for Thursday, November 17 from 1-6 PM. For additional information, catalogs, pictures, phone and order bids visit the website or call Charles A. Whitaker at 215-817-4600 or Karen Augusta at 802-463- A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] soles for slippers? - OT
Hello all not terribly historic but I thought you'd be more likely to know about this. I'm looking for soles that could be used in making indoor slippers. I had an idea about making some pointy velvet slip ons for Christmas gifts and thought a thin covered sole would be sufficient. I've not been able to find something online though - has anyone tried to make them before? Apologies for OT etc., yours gratefully, Katherine in Scotland, so UK suppliers would be best:-) A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A New Programme to watch out for - Elizabeth
Dear Suzi I concur about the falling standards of UK history programmes - they seem to be aimed at those with gnat-like attention spans and clips of 'reenactments' are repeated ad nauseam just in case you forgot what happened the last time the presenter mentioned Henry VIII... all of one minute ago. My particular peeve was with a national historic body (who will remain nameless) advertising sites in Scotland using one character who was supposed to be a warrior from Bannockburn but was instead Billy Connolly's double from Braveheart. When I wrote and complained to both the organisation and advertising agency, I was told that all that mattered was making the public 'aware of their sites' by using recognisable images.Honestly. I too was bemused by the princess seams on Elizabeth's very dowdy doublet dress. Surely everyone who makes costumes at that kind of level has access to patterns of fashion?? I also think that people should not say anything unless they have something supportive /informative /nice to say or a question to ask that other people can help with. Sniping is a waste of bandwidth and everyone's time. Katherine ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ... Elizabeth : quotes from article designer info
Hi all I'm unable to track down an online copy of Mr Starkey's article in the British TV paper Radio Times, so thought it would be useful to give more info on what he actually wrote. He was flown over to Lithuania to watch filming - he's a nippy sweety historian who is pretty good at lecturing to camera, but nothing like the class of Kenneth Clark - and raves on about the 1/3 and full scale reproductions of Whitehall Palace constructed with guidance from Simon Thurley, head of English Heritage and ' the great expert on Tudor palaces' after pointing out they film in Lithuania because it's cheap. Then we get onto costume. Where I think this film is really going to score, though, is in the attention to costume. This is not the usual Hollywood version of the Tudors, not the standard stuff. In the 16th century, costume wasn't as we take it for granted now. In, say, a dress, the sleeves were separate, the skirt was separate and the whole thing was held together by a series of ties or aglets (a type of super-safety pin of gold and silver). I asked to watch the actors being dressed, and the textures, the colours and the shapes were all extremely well done; several costumes were entirely authentic. The period of Elizabeth's life is covered (from Armada to death) next and praises the writing, saying it is a formal style without the horrors of prithee and forsooth, before detailing the process of hanging, drawing and quartering which we will get to see in full. Yay. There is also a little box called Spot the Deliberate Mistake: David Starkey explains why, sometimes, artistic license is better for drama than authenticity... He points out that even shakespeare messed about with facts for the purpose of his drama and concludes This drama is particularly dangerous because it will look so real. We also have Elizabeth meeting Queen Mary (of Scotland) and King James VI/I, her successor, people sitting and wearing hats in the royal presence and Elizabeth comforting Leicester as he dies (although who could resist an ailing Mr Irons?). All in all I think the article and perhaps the programme will be a mixed bag - I will be keen to see the rest of the costumes, designed by Mike O'Neill (who did Prime Suspect, David Copperfield (1999), Charles II (2004?), Our Mutual Friend, Daniel Deronda and North and South. Obviously the BBC period person du jour. http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/charles/backstage/costume_designer.shtml gives some insight into his process. Mr O'Neill is shown looking at a short bejwelled bodice 'bought in Rome' for Helen Mirren. Mr Starkey was also very impressed with his research (photograph of large white folder). I'm not knowledgeable enough to spot the small things but I'd be delighted if someone could give me examples of a princess seam on an Elizabethan bodice - it shouts to me of inappropriate corseting, my pet peeve. HTH, Katherine, who's sure the show will migrate to our American cousins quite soon. ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re:effigy corst: reeds/bamboo for stiffening
Thank you all SO much - it's been very enlightening and highlighted the possible false economy of using overly pointy/stiff/scratchy boning. I had also forgotten the effigy corset was boned with baleen - and I think in terms of general experimentation I could go for zip ties with a relatively clear conscience. I'd rather use a non-period type of boning that won't injure me and is easily removed in future than waste my time on the bamboo. Let's face it, who has time to waste on sewing that gets ruined by cheapola materials? (Been there done that). Thanks again, it's been very helpful, Katherine ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Album Amicorum: separate sleeves?
Many thanks for all your help - Michaela, your research is awesome and I /love/ your Spanish gown. Wow. I forgot, also, that Bella had made a gown similar to this one! What can I say, brain addled by DIY and not enough sewing :-) I think on balance I'll go on your recommendation to make an 'under jerkin' bodice which I could leave off if necessary, (since despite living in Scotland I get freakishly hot. Too much yang or something.) plus sleeves and a skirt, below an outer gown with shoulder rolls and ruff. I was looking closely at the sketch again and noticed there are tiny gold bands going horizontlly around the sleeves, just like the clearer oil portraits of the time, which are hiding beneath what I thought were lines to indicate shading. That will decide on the type of fabric/embroidery I do on them at least. Many thanks again, time for more research before I bother the list about another imponderable. Katherine ___ To help you stay safe and secure online, we've developed the all new Yahoo! Security Centre. http://uk.security.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tales from Green Valley - a reality programme that works! (UK)
Dear list You may remember our dismay at the soap opera tactics of TV when producing the 'Pioneer House' series earlier this year/last year. Many said why don't they do a series with archaeologists/historians/etc. who WANT to do this and know their stuff? and I agreed. Someone, somewhere was listening and on Friday 19 August on BBC2 the series 'Tales from Green Valley' begins - it's a 12 part exploration of life on a farm in Wales during the reign of James VI in 1620. Archaeologists and historians spend 12 months living the life they have studied and so far, no sign of women out without their headgear or in their corsets... Hoping it will be broadcast in the rest of the world for everyone else, Katherine ___ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] London troubles
Dear List folks London is indeed in trouble - so far four explosions, timed to cause a lot of pain and injury. It will be tomorrow before final death and casualty numbers are known since explosions took place within tunnels on the tube. Further controlled explosions have taken place but they don't seem to think any more will take place. Suzi - are you ok??? You and all the otherlondoners are in our thoughts. Susan, feeling guilty for complaining about the G8 protesters in her backyard all weekend... ___ How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
