Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

2016-01-14 Thread Monica Spence
My Laurel cloak (SCA garment). Needs some minor repairs that I have not
completed--since August. Not lazy, merely overwhelmed with to-dos.
Monica Spence



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 11:56 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

My mannequin is wearing a partially completed shift that was a massive fail.
I have to re-think the whole thing, so there it hangs.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: R Lloyd Mitchell <rmitch...@washjeff.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-cost...@indra.com>
Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2016 10:37 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

One mannequin is holding a robe for Queen Anne, hems and trim are waiting
patiently, Queen Maud is fitfully pacing about because her coronation gown
is still without the sleeve lace she has chosen and it  has not arrived yet.
Her white morning robes are constantly being donned and cast aside. I fear
they will be dusty before the package has arrived!

We have a new client, (Mrs Jack Gardner) Isabella. She has been asked to sit
for Mr Sargent and has decided nothing in the closet will do. Measurements
have been taken and a lovely bolt of black silk velvet chosen. The patterns
are being drafted with the help of friend Miss Grimble. Mona is looking
wildly about for pearls We may have to get them matched and restrung as they
are to adorn the waist. Wish us God-speed as we have heard that she is Very
particular) (Truth be told, after our exploits with Q.Maud, I think we
should feel quite practiced in completing this project!!)

From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com <h-costume-boun...@indra.com> on behalf of
michaela de bruce <michaela.de.br...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 6:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly
holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going to
put that on once I finish typing :)

My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in
replacement is also naked while I tidy my art space. I have just restored my
sewing/ironing desk top so I can actually start working again :) I have a
new removeable cover to finish sewing as well. Then I can iron huge applique
pieces again.

As for current projects:
Finally finishing my c1600 Spanish gown, stage one anyway. I decided I
probably won't have enough trim for the doublet and the galerilla as I
thought so doublet is a higher priority. It means all new stays, finishing
the underlayers and tracking down lace of a suitable size.
While doing this I have documentation to write up, which means a fair amount
of scanning so, ugh. Got that to look forward to.

I also have an Elsa spring gown to make (Frozen Fever) as the ice gown
sleeves can get a little warm at big children's events :)

Michaela
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

2015-12-17 Thread Monica Spence
Thanks for letting me know you are all here. 
Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-cost...@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) 
was rejected.


On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but 
> the link below does not work.
>
> Thanks!
> -Carol
>
>
>
>> ___
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
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-- 
Robin Netherton
Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles
ro...@netherton.net
voice: (314) 439-1222
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Re: [h-cost] New York garment district

2015-01-16 Thread Monica Spence
The only thing I've seen is a packet of postcards.  Nice, but not much use. 
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 10:45 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New York garment district

Is there a printed exhibit catalog?

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing patterns
www.lavoltapress.com

On 1/15/2015 7:31 PM, Monica Spence wrote:
 The Met has an awesome show called Death Becomes Her Mourning 
 clothes from 1800-1915or so.  One of Queen Victoria's gowns is on 
 display, and two from Alexandra, Edward's wife. You should not miss 
 it. It is in the costume institute, below the Egyptian Exhibit.
   I believe the show runs until February.

 Monica

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
 On Behalf Of Brenda Bell
 Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 9:11 AM
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] New York garment district

 AtMon, 01 Dec 2014 22:27:11 -0800, humbugfo...@att.net wrote:

 Also, I've checked the Met and FITM for costume exhibits and there 
 doesn't seem to be anything particularly exciting on their schedules.
 Can anyone suggest any other museums or exhibitions that would have
 (historical) costumes on display?
 I'd check the People Center at the American Museum of Natural History 
 for costumes of indigenous peoples. I might also check the Museum of 
 the City of New York, the New York Historical Society, the Museum of  
 Folk Art, and the American Crafts Museum to see if there will be any 
 interesting exhibits. You might also check to see if you can do some 
 specific study at the Met's Costume Institute, if there's something
particular you wish to research.


 Brenda F. Bell
 webwar...@earthlink.net

 Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes!
 http://main.diabetes.org/goto/tmana

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Re: [h-cost] New York garment district

2015-01-15 Thread Monica Spence
The Met has an awesome show called Death Becomes Her Mourning clothes from
1800-1915or so.  One of Queen Victoria's gowns is on display, and two from
Alexandra, Edward's wife. You should not miss it. It is in the costume
institute, below the Egyptian Exhibit. 
 I believe the show runs until February.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Brenda Bell
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 9:11 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] New York garment district

AtMon, 01 Dec 2014 22:27:11 -0800, humbugfo...@att.net wrote:

Also, I've checked the Met and FITM for costume exhibits and there 
doesn't seem to be anything particularly exciting on their schedules. 
Can anyone suggest any other museums or exhibitions that would have 
(historical) costumes on display?

I'd check the People Center at the American Museum of Natural History for
costumes of indigenous peoples. I might also check the Museum of the City of
New York, the New York Historical Society, the Museum of  Folk Art, and the
American Crafts Museum to see if there will be any interesting exhibits. You
might also check to see if you can do some specific study at the Met's
Costume Institute, if there's something particular you wish to research.


Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! 
http://main.diabetes.org/goto/tmana 

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Re: [h-cost] New York garment district

2014-12-02 Thread Monica Spence
I'd suggest you go to Elegant Fabrics on 40th Street, between 7th Ave. and
8th Ave. That will  fill up your allotted time all by itself.
Best Regards,
Monica  

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of humbugfo...@att.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 1:27 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] New York garment district

I'm going to be in New York next spring (mid-March) and I can squeeze in a
couple of hours in the garment district, and I'd appreciate some
suggestions: If you could only visit two fabric/trim shops, which would be
at the top of your list?

Also, I've checked the Met and FITM for costume exhibits and there doesn't
seem to be anything particularly exciting on their schedules. 
Can anyone suggest any other museums or exhibitions that would have
(historical) costumes on display?

Thanks,
Julie
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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

2014-01-09 Thread Monica Spence
A shirt with tiny straps is called a cami or camisole.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Ann Catelli
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2014 10:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

Tank top because it was worn by tank crewmen, who'd strip down to that
layer, UK vest layer, because it was very very hot inside a tank.

Ann in CT





On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 4:20 AM, Kate Bunting katembunt...@gmail.com
wrote:
 
Here in the UK we would call it a vest, because it resembles the
undergarment of that name. (Yes, I know a vest is a waistcoat in the US.)
Out of interest, I looked at the website of a clothing company I use and
they call them vests or occasionally camis, but the distinction between them
is unclear.
I first heard the term tank top 40 years ago to describe a sleeveless
knitted pullover to be worn over a shirt for warmth. The name always puzzled
me until I learned from this list that Americans used to call a swimming
pool a tank and that the garment was named from those 1920s men's swimsuits.
I don't think we would ever call the lightweight garment a tank over here.

Kate Bunting
Retired librarian  17th century reenactor Derby, UK
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Re: [h-cost] Clothing of the Future, 2000

2013-10-21 Thread Monica Spence
Thanks for the video. I'm going to share it with my Costume History class.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kim Baird
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 12:57 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Clothing of the Future, 2000

That was hilarious! They did get the see-through mesh right.
kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of mhprobe...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 11:20 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Clothing of the Future, 2000

This was fun - anything look familiar?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9eAiy0IGBI

Melissa Roberts
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Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber

2013-04-01 Thread Monica Spence
FWIW--Polyester now is an ecofriendly fabric. It is made of recycled soda
and water bottles.


Monica E. Spence, MA, MA, BA, PhD/ in progress
Senior Lead Instructor
Fashion Studies Department
Liberal Arts and Sciences Department
The Art Institute of New York City
11-17 Beach Street
New York, NY 10013



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sybella
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 10:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber

Ahh, darn it!! Polyester?? No

When I'm shopping for clothing, I look long and hard for natural fibers.
Synthetics make my hair stand on end, and as a wavy, I battle unruly curls
all the time. I really do not need static making it more difficult for me.

Plus, I find it quite bothersome that, according to that article, polyester
is a petroleum by-product. I haven't done my research (I avoid polyester
anyway) but if it is fossil derived, it is not a renewable resource. Hasn't
there been complaints since the 1980s that fossil sources are nearly
depleted?? In my opinion, anything that comes from the same source as
gasoline doesn't belong on our skin. (Does anyone really like polyester??
LOL!)

That said, I'm incredibly disappointed and grossed out that polyester has
made a come back. :(

'Bella


On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 4:46 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:

 Polyester. Ick. But it's grown up in the world since the bulletproof 
 variety, and SOME things in poly are actually decent feeling.

  == Marjorie Wilser

 =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
 Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. 
 --MW



 On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:29 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

  My new-old Easter dress is polyester (a thrift store purchase), and I
 have to say, I'm glad the pleats in the skirt could be permanently set.


 Ann Wass


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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

2013-02-27 Thread Monica Spence
I went to school at Seton Hill College (now Seton Hill University). It is
run by Mother's Seton's Sisters of Charity, so I've seen the bonnet up
close. It reminds me of the poke bonnet that became popular in the Romantic
and Crinoline periods. A bit early, I know, but just a thought that it may
be an early version of the style.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 7:15 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?




Notice that she is wearing
a bonnet that ties under her chin

Now Mother Cabrini's bonnet is very typical of European/American styles of
the late 19th century, whereas Elizabeth Ann Seton's does not seem typical
of styles of her era. That is why I asked the question about its possibly
being an Italian style.


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Kathleen Norvell app...@aol.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 7:07 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dr


Here is a photo of Saint Frances Cabrini (1850-1917). Notice that she is
wearing a bonnet that ties under her chin. Not saying it's an Italian style,
but as soon as I saw Elizabeth Seton's headgear, I thought of Mother
Cabrini. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frances_Xavier_Cabrini

Kathy

Kathleen Norvell
app...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: annbwass annbw...@aol.com
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, Feb 27, 2013 6:59 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?


I am researching Saint Elizabeth Ann Seton. Supposedly, the habit of the
order he founded originated in her widow's dress. She was widowed in 1804
while she as in Italy. Here is a link to a portrait that was supposed to
have been ainted then, although I have my doubts.

ttp://catholicgene.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/st-elizabeth-ann-seton-1804-p
ortrait.jpg?w=417h=529

f course I can accept her wearing black, but that headgear doesn't look like
nything I've seen from images at that time. So my question is, could it have
een something distinctly Italian? Or does anyone know of images of anything
imilar from elsewhere?

hanks.

nn Wass


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Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

2012-05-18 Thread Monica Spence
Hi Aylwen,
Is the embroidery separating from the fabric? Can you catch the threads on
the underside with a catch stitch and sew them in a bunch to each motif?
Then flat line the fabric in a really lightweight fabric. I could be more
helpful if I saw a picture. Can you send it privately?

Best Regards,
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 8:55 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((

Would fray check work?  How big are the motifs?

Katy

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 6:46 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
aylwe...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've tried that but it bubbled - because the thickness of the threads 
 under the embroidered flowers prevents it from sticking at that point.
 *Aylwen *


 On 18 May 2012 20:39, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 
 
 
  Looks gorgeous on the outside but the mbroidery is shedding like mad 
  on the underside.
 
  Could you back it with a lightweight fusible?
 
  Ann Wass
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com
  To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
  Sent: Fri, May 18, 2012 5:12 am
  Subject: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((
 
 
  Any helpful hints appreciated - I have a commission to make a 
  regency
 gown
  rom a woven embroidered silk dupion. Looks gorgeous on the outside 
  but
 the
  mbroidery is shedding like mad on the underside. What would you do 
  to it o save the day? It is supposed to be a wow gown and all I feel 
  like doing s crying :( Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
 
 
  Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy 
 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
  
 
  Jane Austen Festival Australia* http://www.janeaustenfestival.com
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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Image search - help?

2012-03-25 Thread Monica Spence
Hi Laurie,
 Try these links.

http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic11.php

http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/wgarb2.php

Best Regards,
 Monica Spence


--

On 3/26/12, Laurie Taylor mazarineblu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Greetings,

 A while back, before Xmas, I was researching sideless surcote pictures 
 online. Had a few images open in tabs, and had a crash before I got 
 them all saved.

 One in particular is still haunting me. Period painting, a group of 
 people with some emphasis towards the left side of the painting 
 (viewer's
 perspective) -  One woman was seated, turned slightly to her right, 
 the viewer's left. She was wearing a sideless surcote in what would be 
 called pink ...in modern terms, but a deep, rich pink if I recall 
 correctly, and it was draped on the floor around her feet.

 I've been hunting for this image ever since, and absolutely cannot find
it.
 I'm starting to wonder if I imagined it. I've gone through every 
 Google result that seemed even remotely likely.  I'm quite sure that 
 it was not a painting from any sort of Codex.  It seems like it was a 
 fairly light, bright painting.  I think that it was from the right 
 time for sideless gowns, so not anything like a Victorian fantasy, not 
 a pre-Raphaelite for sure.

 This image could have been in someone's PDF file, or it could have 
 been right on a web page. I do remember thinking that I'd love to have 
 done a reproduction of whatever her whole outfit was, though the 
 surcote was the most noticeable thing about it, at least at the moment
that I was seeing it.

 I've seen many images of sideless surcotes in what could be called 
 pink, and many of women seated and wearing sideless surcotes, yet this 
 one image eludes me.  I know that this is asking a lot, but if this 
 minimal bit of description jogs anything for any of you, I'd sure 
 appreciate any nudges in the direction of images that might be this one.

 Appreciative of your patience and your help!

 Laurie T.
 Phoenix

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--
--
Elizabeth Walpole
http://magpiecostumer.wordpress.com/
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
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Re: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes

2011-11-07 Thread Monica Spence
Cheap and easy: Fabric glue with glitter over it. 
More expensive Christmas ribbons and small decorative trims by-the-yard. If
the show is after Christmas, the trim usually is  on sale.  Donated buttons
make nice jewelry, also.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 6:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes

Dear H-cost list

I have to make 20 costumes for an upcoming Italian renaissance performance
and have been thinking about using
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh509-1470s-1500-florentine-wo
mans-outfit-1#.
Can you think of different ways we can decorate these gowns so they don't
all look the same? Plus they need to look grand because we will be on stage
under lights.

I am still working out what to dress the men in, and fear they will not want
to wear short doublets and tights :((

*Aylwen*
*
*
*Aylwen's Historical Costumes*
www.aylwen.com
http://aylwen.blogspot.com
*
*
*Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy* www.earthlydelights.com.au
http://edhda.eventbrite.com


*
*
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Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

2011-10-27 Thread Monica Spence
I have a photo of my grandmother, a farmer's wife in c. 1890, Nebraska.
Buttons up the center front like the shirtwaist style dresses we are
probably all familiar with. 

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kim Baird
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 9:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

Challe--

The Past Patterns dress would be suitable. The skirt closure on the other
pattern can be in any seam. Just include a placket and use hooks and eyes.

For work-a-day wear, a rural woman would most likely have a wash dress,
that is, a cotton dress, whether of one or two pieces, rather than a
shirtwaist and skirt. And definitely an apron.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Challe Hudson
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 8:13 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] help on a c. 1900 rural woman's dress

My sister is trying to sew something completely outside my area of
expertise, but I offered to ask for advice here. She wants an everyday gown
for a farm woman to wear (in Piedmont North Carolina, in case that makes a
difference). These pages have information she's found useful (though she
hasn't bought any patterns. I've been helping her with fittings and we've
made up patterns as we went along). What she needs to know now is: where is
the opening in the skirt so that you can get it on? And how does the skirt
close? If you have any other useful links, images, or construction tips,
that would be appreciated, too.

http://www.pastpatterns.com/903.html

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/woolskirt.htm

thanks!

Challe
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Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

2011-09-27 Thread Monica Spence
The author usually does write the blurbs.

My question is HOW COULD the daughter of a robber baron (19th- 20th
centuries)  marry  an ambitious young Norman knight (11th century)?

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bonnie Booker
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 3:27 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

Did you see the write-up on one of the Maria books?
 Maria is the daughter of a robber baron who marries an ambitious young
Norman knight.
Why would the Baron marry a Knight? LOL
The little things bother me too. The author should have approval of the
blurbs too.

--
*Maistresse Aspasia *
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Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

2011-09-26 Thread Monica Spence

Sometimes covers are even reused. Sometimes a certain model is popular (aka:
Fabio). Romance novel covers go through  phases. Right now  there is a trend
for headless women (what does THAT say?). Other covers feature a shirtless
man-- with or without tattoos.

The frustrating thing for an author is the cover. She tell the publisher how
she envisions a cover, and gets the exact opposite.  My friend got a
contract for a book and sent exact ideas (man: James bond type, in a good
suit and tie). What she got was a skinny, shirtless, guy with a medallion
around his neck.  Let's  say she was not happy.  My personal frustration
with novels of historical fiction is when the publishers take a piece of
real art work from a period, and use it for the another, completely wrong
period.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bambi TBNL
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 7:51 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

Often times the costume is orderd in a certain  artist model size, color
optional. Who designs it is between the writer , the artist and the
publisher, the costumes ia not seen as a designer/historian but as  the
seamstress who almost never has any more info than an artist sketch which
they expect precise compliance with. The suggestion tha alteration in this
might provide something more *..historically accurate, pleasing, tasteful,
is at best met with  we are not flexible on this matter and at worst with
the business being conducted elsewhere , ( where their order is filled no
questions asked, -Original Message-
Date: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:27:20 am
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

I'm curious--does anyone know the answer to this question? Do the artists
who draw the covers of romance novels just come up with a costume out of
their head, or do they pose the models in a costume from a costume warehouse
or something? Some novels' covers look almost like photos; the costumes are
horrible, but very detailed.
Sharon C. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Patricia Dunham
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 6:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] costume on book covers, argh

Just ran across, by accident, 2 new CECELIA HOLLAND's -- hooray.  THEN I
looked them up online and the covers -- argh!  Obviously art-directed at the
bodice ripper set!  

The King's Witch is a Richard II period piece with a not-very-good Ren-faire
wench in green, @
http://www.amazon.com/Kings-Witch-Cecelia-Holland/dp/0425241300/ref=ntt_at_e
p_dpt_2.  

And The Secret Eleanor [of Acquitaine], which cover is better but

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Re: [h-cost] Book Covers

2011-09-26 Thread Monica Spence
I, too, write romances, and I've been fighting the bodice ripper label for
years. To me, bad book covers are on the same level as poorly done
historical costumes or bad SCA garb. ( I teach Costume History on the
college level  and my husband and I are in the SCA, so I know from whence I
speak.) 

There is a silver lining in bad book covers. That cover with the three limbs
allowed Christina Dodd cover approval for her novels. Likewise, my friend
Kristan Higgins got cover control when the artist put the wrong breed of dog
on her book cover.

Of course, it helps if you are a bestselling New York Times author. 

Other authors I know must rely on the generosity of the cover gods. :-)
Some have really been blessed.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Valerie Robertson
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:39 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Book Covers

Um, you guys know that bodice ripper is considered insulting by romance
writers, right?  Kind of like costume nazi among historical clothing
researchers.  And since I'm a published romance novelist (science fiction,
so the clothes aren't a problem) and have been researching historical
clothing for more than two decades, I feel qualified to make the comparison.


As far as getting the dress correct on book covers, in 1993 Christina Dodd
became infamous because of a cover that went to press with the heroine
having THREE ARMS. If Avon, the leading US publisher of historical romances,
couldn't get the number of limbs correct with all their editors and a full
art department, do you really think they even care if the dress details are
correct?


For the record, the dress sucked; 14th century kirtle with bell sleeves
gathered at her left wrist in a ruffle--yes, a ruffle--at one right wrist
without a ruffle, and no cuff, gathering band, ruffle, or sleeve visible at
all at the other right wrist. The hero is wearing a Templar tunic, or it
might be a white tunic with a red Maltese cross on it (cue eyelid twitch).


Of course, that book is a collector's item now and resells for hundreds of
dollars, but still, they failed at counting to two. 

Got seams in the wrong place...visible zipper lines...wrong kind of lacing
for the period...neckline that defies physics? Well, yes. 

Does she have two arms? Hey, it's all good.


Valerie Robertson
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Re: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

2011-09-18 Thread Monica Spence
Not California-- even worse. New York.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Wanda Pease
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 7:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

Bummer about the Tax.  Live in California?
   I wrote to my friend Ian Stevens at David Brown Book Company (which the 
announcement said was carrying the book) and low he no longer works there.  
Since he was my absolute favorite and successful book pusher (I'm an addict the 
way other people are to drugs) they will not get my business.  Fortunately 
Amazon gets enough business on my Amazon card that I have rewards coming and 
got it for $110 with no shipping or Tax.  (the day Oregon puts Sales tax on 
things you will hear about the cooling trend in H**l)

Regina Romsey


On 9/16/2011 4:07 PM, Monica Spence wrote:
 I ordered mine through Amazon last month for about $125.00 USD (plus 
 tax) Monica

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] 
 On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 3:17 PM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

 Anyone know if this is a good price?
 Sharon C.

_

 From: LeonardoLibri [mailto:i...@leonardolibri.com]
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 3:59 AM
 To: LeonardoLibri
 Subject: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'


   http://www.mauropagliai.it/   

  http://www.polistampa.com  http://www.sarnus.it  

 Gentile Cliente,

 abbiamo il piacere di segnalare l'uscita dell'atteso volume di R. Orsi 
 Landini Moda ahttp://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sl.asp?id=5046  Firenze 
 1540-1580. Cosimo I de' Medici's style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici 
 (testi in italiano e inglese, ordinabile su 
 LeonardoLibrihttp://www.leonardolibri.com   con sconto 
 20%http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/carrello.asp?id=5046  ).




 La moda al tempo dei Medici in un volume Roberta Orsi Landini 
 ripercorre nel suo libro lo stille fiorentino del Cinquecento


 'Sobrio, severo, mai eccessivamente guarnito d'oro: questo l'abbigliamento 
 scelto da Cosimo I de’ Medici, primo granduca di Toscana eletto al governo 
 della città di Firenze all'età di appena 17 anni (nel 1537).Uno stile che 
 diverrà poi un modello da seguire,un criterio a cui si sono attenuti anche i 
 suoi successori.
 Proprio i dettagli dello stile maschile in voga nella Firenze del Cinquecento 
 sono raccolti all'interno dl volume Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di 
 Cosimo I de’ Medici, a cura di Roberta Orsi Landini, che sarà presentato 
 giovedì 15 settembre al Rondò di Bacco di Palazzo Pitti, impreziosito da 
 oltre 120 tavole a colori.
 Nel suo regno Cosimo abbellisce il Palazzo della Signoria, sede del governo 
 dello Stato e sua residenza per circa vent'anni, con ristrutturazioni, 
 affreschi e opere d'arte, ma nell'abbigliamento sceglie un guardaroba 
 improntato alla modestia, senza seguire mode straniere o fugaci. Vuole che i 
 suoi abiti, caratterizzati dallo stile severo, siano confezionati localmente 
 con lane e con sete, per dare un sostegno all'economia della città. 
 Preferisce indossare abiti con guarnizioni in oro solo nelle apparizioni 
 ufficiali, dove la sua persona deve testimoniare la potenza e la ricchezza 
 dello stato.
 Nel volume di Roberta Orsi Landini viene ricostruito il guardaroba di Cosimo, 
 dagli abiti di uso quotidiano alle vesti da cerimonia, passando per calzature 
 e accessori. L'analisi di ogni capo comprende note sulla sua provenienza, 
 sulla fattura, sul tipo e sulla quantità di stoffa necessari alla 
 fabbricazione, oltre a un attento esame delle decorazioni. Tra le 
 particolarità l'uso a scopo sanitario del martingala, elemento ritrovato 
 nelle calze funerarie del granduca.(ANSA).

 Cordiali saluti,

 Ufficio Promozione Mauro Pagliai


   

   http://www.mauropagliai.it/default.asp  Home Page 


http://www.mauropagliai.it/public/images/modaaf99.JPG

 Sconto 20 %http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/carrello.asp?id=5046


 Carrello

http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/1x1.gif   
 http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sl.asp?stampa=veroid=5046

http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/stampa.gif
 Stampa ottimizzata

   http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/1x1.gif 
 Roberta Orsihttp://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sa.asp?id=5730  Landini

 Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
 Cosimo I de' Medici's style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici







 After Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua 
 influenza (2005), the research project goes on, now with male clothing of the 
 same period. Thanks to the papers from the Archivio di Stato of Florence, the 
 author reconstructs the whole wardrobe of Eleonora’s husband, Cosimo I de’ 
 Medici, day by day from 1544 until 1574, that is from the first time notes 
 about the duke’s clothes appeared

Re: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

2011-09-16 Thread Monica Spence
I ordered mine through Amazon last month for about $125.00 USD (plus tax)
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of Sharon Collier
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 3:17 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] FW: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'

Anyone know if this is a good price? 
Sharon C.

  _  

From: LeonardoLibri [mailto:i...@leonardolibri.com] 
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 3:59 AM
To: LeonardoLibri
Subject: Novità - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580'


 http://www.mauropagliai.it/  

http://www.polistampa.com http://www.sarnus.it  

Gentile Cliente,

abbiamo il piacere di segnalare l'uscita dell'atteso volume di R. Orsi Landini 
Moda a  http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sl.asp?id=5046 Firenze 1540-1580. 
Cosimo I de' Medici's style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici (testi in 
italiano e inglese, ordinabile su LeonardoLibri http://www.leonardolibri.com  
con sconto 20% http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/carrello.asp?id=5046 ).




La moda al tempo dei Medici in un volume
Roberta Orsi Landini ripercorre nel suo libro lo stille fiorentino del 
Cinquecento


'Sobrio, severo, mai eccessivamente guarnito d'oro: questo l'abbigliamento 
scelto da Cosimo I de’ Medici, primo granduca di Toscana eletto al governo 
della città di Firenze all'età di appena 17 anni (nel 1537).Uno stile che 
diverrà poi un modello da seguire,un criterio a cui si sono attenuti anche i 
suoi successori.
Proprio i dettagli dello stile maschile in voga nella Firenze del Cinquecento 
sono raccolti all'interno dl volume Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di 
Cosimo I de’ Medici, a cura di Roberta Orsi Landini, che sarà presentato 
giovedì 15 settembre al Rondò di Bacco di Palazzo Pitti, impreziosito da oltre 
120 tavole a colori.
Nel suo regno Cosimo abbellisce il Palazzo della Signoria, sede del governo 
dello Stato e sua residenza per circa vent'anni, con ristrutturazioni, 
affreschi e opere d'arte, ma nell'abbigliamento sceglie un guardaroba 
improntato alla modestia, senza seguire mode straniere o fugaci. Vuole che i 
suoi abiti, caratterizzati dallo stile severo, siano confezionati localmente 
con lane e con sete, per dare un sostegno all'economia della città. Preferisce 
indossare abiti con guarnizioni in oro solo nelle apparizioni ufficiali, dove 
la sua persona deve testimoniare la potenza e la ricchezza dello stato.
Nel volume di Roberta Orsi Landini viene ricostruito il guardaroba di Cosimo, 
dagli abiti di uso quotidiano alle vesti da cerimonia, passando per calzature e 
accessori. L'analisi di ogni capo comprende note sulla sua provenienza, sulla 
fattura, sul tipo e sulla quantità di stoffa necessari alla fabbricazione, 
oltre a un attento esame delle decorazioni. Tra le particolarità l'uso a scopo 
sanitario del martingala, elemento ritrovato nelle calze funerarie del 
granduca.(ANSA).

Cordiali saluti, 

Ufficio Promozione Mauro Pagliai




  http://www.mauropagliai.it/default.asp Home Page


  http://www.mauropagliai.it/public/images/modaaf99.JPG 

Sconto 20 % http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/carrello.asp?id=5046 


Carrello 

  http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/1x1.gif  
http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sl.asp?stampa=veroid=5046 

  http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/stampa.gif 
Stampa ottimizzata 

   http://www.mauropagliai.it/images/1x1.gif  
Roberta Orsi  http://www.mauropagliai.it/asp/sa.asp?id=5730 Landini

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580
Cosimo I de' Medici's style / Lo stile di Cosimo I de' Medici







After Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua 
influenza (2005), the research project goes on, now with male clothing of the 
same period. Thanks to the papers from the Archivio di Stato of Florence, the 
author reconstructs the whole wardrobe of Eleonora’s husband, Cosimo I de’ 
Medici, day by day from 1544 until 1574, that is from the first time notes 
about the duke’s clothes appeared in official documents till the death of 
Cosimo. The founder of the grand-ducal dynasty created his public image with 
great care and determination, but Roberta Orsi Landini focus attention as well 
on Cosimo I’s personal tastes. The book describes fashion development in 
Florence through the analysis of items from the duke’s wardrobe and makes 
confrontations with potrait-paintings in order to define when new styles 
started up and which were the most favourite colours, materials and decorations 
of the period. Besides, the manufacturers panorama is meticulously 
reconstructed. Synoptic tables illustrate every change during the forty years; 
they are also a great tool to date paintings. Moreover, the author reconstructs 
the paper patterns of Cosimo and his son don Garçia’s burial gowns. Appendix 
includes daily off-the-peg clothes annotations, and lists amounts and materials 
in detail.
Forewords by Kirsten Aschengreen Piacenti and Caterina Chiarelli. With a 
contribution by Thessy 

Re: [h-cost] Review of new biography of Chanel

2011-08-22 Thread Monica Spence
Thanks for speaking up ladies. I teach Fashion History and my students are 
shocked to hear this, but I think we are obliged to tell them. Heck, most of 
them have no idea about what happened in WWII or even the Holocaust. Sad. 
They look at History like they view Reality TV.


Monica

-Original Message- 
From: annbw...@aol.com

Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 12:21 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Review of new biography of Chanel


And she also took advantage of the anti-semitism to throw her partner/backer 
for Chanel No. 5 under the bus and take total control. I could sort of 
accept her collaboration to save her relatives, which seems to be how it 
started, but she went way beyond that to profit by it and keep living the 
good life.


Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2011 1:44 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Review of new biography of Chanel


http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/21/RV951KK5JF.DTL

If this link does not work for you, go to www.sfgate.com and search for the 
scent of a collaborator.


This book apparently illuminates what I've long disliked about Chanel. I 
don't mind her having been a kept mistress, but she was an active Nazi 
collaborator and espionage agent, and that I really do mind. No quantity of 
color pictures and gush about her creations can change that for me.


Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress

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Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture

2011-07-18 Thread monica spence
I'd guess it is Victorian or even 20thCentury. The Renaissance era paintings
I've seen seemed to always have the sitter looking out at the viewer. Here
you don't see her eyes at all. Creepy.

Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of humbugfo...@att.net
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 3:15 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] help identifying picture

Has anybody ever seen this before?

http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b2
2044bb4e02.jpg

It seems to me it's clearly a Victorian or later representation of a 
Renaissance style, either Italian or German. But I've never seen it 
before and have no idea where it came from. Can anyone help?

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] 16th and 17th Century Portraits

2011-06-11 Thread monica spence
This is wonderful! Thanks Melanie!
Monica Spence


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2011 8:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 16th and 17th Century Portraits

Hello all,

Weiss Gallery in London specializes in historic portraiture, and to
celebrate their 25th anniversary, they have put a gorgeous commemorative
publication online.  It includes some fabulous 16th and 17th century
portraits (some of which also appear in their paper catalogs) and has
closeups of some of them.  You can look at it online, and you can also
download the whole thing as a PDF.  For free.

http://www.weissgallery.com/catalogue/weiss25years.htm

Enjoy!
Melanie Schuessler
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Re: [h-cost] 1st White Wedding Dress Trend: Anne of Brittany or QueenVictoria

2011-05-10 Thread monica spence
I think Mary Tudor and Martha Washington wore white.
Monica Spence


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of penn...@costumegallery.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 1:44 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1st White Wedding Dress Trend: Anne of Brittany or
QueenVictoria

My local newspaper ran an article about wedding traditions, 

http://www2.timesdispatch.com/lifestyles/celebrations/2011/may/04/tradition-
tales-ar-1015954/  Scroll down to The White Wedding Dress.

So who started the trend of the white wedding dress, Anne of Brittany or
Queen Victoria?  The year 1499 is out of my league of knowledge.  I know all
about Victoria's wedding dress trend.  

 

Penny Ladnier, owner

The Costume Gallery Websites

 http://www.costumegallery.com/ www.costumegallery.com

15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history

FaceBook:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 

 

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Re: [h-cost] Uniquely You dress form question [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]

2010-11-08 Thread monica spence
Hi Annette,

I have a Uniquely You form and it dates (new) from 1976. (OY!) I am the
original owner and my shape has changed a LOT since then.

The foam dried out and is a bit less flexible, but it is still in good
shape. Mine also discolored on the neck and armholes. 

You can make a cover to fit you and then pad the form with the cover
on--fiberfill would work. Voila! A new Uniquely You of you. 

Monica
USA


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Re: [h-cost] Marten fur in history, was Re: Need help identifying furs

2010-11-04 Thread monica spence
Excuse me, but I have no Idea about what you are writing. I was answering a
question about fur pieces. Please don't include me in your group scolding--
which IMHO should be done privately and individually. Thanks for
understanding.

Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Senior Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of sovag...@cybermesa.com
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2010 3:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Marten fur in history, was Re: Need help identifying
furs

Jen, Monica, et al.:
The author of the article in MCT is not the person who makes replicas.
Can we please be more careful with our citations... hmmm?

Suzanne

On Thu, November 4, 2010 8:46 am, Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:

 Apologies for people who aren't interested in fur--it's one of my hot
 buttons. ;-)

 On Wed, 3 Nov 2010, monica spence wrote:

 Hi Michelle,

 Here's my best guess

much trimming

 Zibellini!! There's an article about them in MCAT 2. And some pictures!!
 (and she apparently makes replicas for sale, too)

 http://sablegreyhound.com/Zibellini.html
 http://sablegreyhound.com/ZibelliniPicsAndInfo.html

 There are a couple of people out there who make replicas, but those are
 the best pictures.

 Jen




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Re: [h-cost] Need help identifying furs

2010-11-03 Thread monica spence
Hi Michelle,

Here's my best guess: martens. During the 20th C. ladies wore a nice suit
with a set of martens around their shoulders. They were clipped nose to butt
around the body. 

Martens have a long and distinguished history in fashion history. During the
Renaissance, people didn't know how they mated and thought they did it
without sex (and possibly through their ear) and so they became a symbol of
the Virgin birth. 

The Renaissance-era furriers did whatever they had to do to preserver the
skin, replaced the head and little feet with gold/ enameled/jeweled
replacement parts and were worn over the arm of a woman. The portrait of
Countess Livia da Porto in the Walters Gallery in Baltimore shows one.
Because of the fertility reference historians have speculated she might have
been pregnant when the painting was done-- plus she had two children
already, the daughter Porzia is pictured with her mom. Her husband and son
are in another painting.

Monica 

 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Michelle Plumb
 Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 12:31 PM
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] Need help identifying furs
 
 Hello, all.
 
 I was given two fur pieces (to be worn around the neck, I assume), and  
 would like some help identifying them and to find out approximately what  
 they're worth.
 
 I don't personally wear fur, but it seems a shame to waste them if someone

 could use them for a costume.
 
 I put pictures of them in my Flickr page:
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/24767...@n06/sets/72157625297457400/
 
 Any help would be appreciated!
 Thanks,
 Michelle
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Re: [h-cost] QEWU

2010-09-21 Thread monica spence

Hi Zuzana,
There is a bit of everything in this book, but ,mostly inventory, who made
what etc. If you are looking for technical things (patterns, construction
tips, stc.) then, IMHO, this is not a book that you would be interested in
buying. Stick to the P of F (#4 was released in 2008).

Best Regards,
Monica

Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Senior Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 4:20 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] QEWU

Hello,

I am FINALLY thinking of buying this book as it has great reviews, but
unfortunately I cannot have a look at it as it isn't in any of the local
libraries. I love Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion and if QEWU is
something of this sort, I would definitely go for it. So, my question is,
how much is there about construction? How much text (theory)? How many
pictures and drawings? I am looking for something that will help me recreate
the costumes, not a theoretical text about what was worn.

Thank you for any advice,

Zuzana













  
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Re: [h-cost] Lookign for chiton pattern

2010-09-21 Thread monica spence
Hi Alwen,

You don't need a pattern. It is a rectangle of cloth. 
Here's a link that might help:
http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/Ch.html#anchor1684194


Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Senior Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 8:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Lookign for chiton pattern

Does anyone know of a pattern online/in a book/for sale for a man's chiton -
a greek tunic?
Bye for now,

Aylwen
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Re: [h-cost] Schools for costume history degrees

2010-09-06 Thread monica spence
I looked for one last year and came up with nothing, but then I was looking
for an on line degree. I finally opted for a PhD in Creative Writing.

Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Senior Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie Taylor
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 7:26 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Schools for costume history degrees

A former student contacted me requesting information about schools in
southern California, offering degrees in Costume History.  I have no
information for her, but am betting that some of you know which schools
offer degrees.  Suggestions welcome.  I did Google, but didn't come up with
as much as I expected.  Must not have picked the right search terms.

Laurie Taylor

(480) 560-7016

www.costumeraz.blogspot.com



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Re: [h-cost] Clothing correspondence from early 20th-Century

2010-07-04 Thread monica spence
Hi Broom!
Monica (aka: Catriona from the Laurel list in SCA parlance).

Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Senior Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Broom
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 12:05 AM
To: Historic Costuming List
Subject: [h-cost] Clothing correspondence from early 20th-Century

Hi, back on the list after years of absence... to pass along a goodie
to someone who will put it to use.

So, I just received this message from someone on another list:

**

I'm in NYC, and a basement vault in a building I frequent is full of
clothing related correspondence from the early 1900's. I was able to
reach into the frozen door far enough to grab a hand-full of letters
and at least a few were a hoot. (I may have lost those samples)
Mainly about socks. They were insanely expensive! $50 or more in
todays money. And this guy go on for pages of florid text about why he
is not interested in whatever offer was being made, must have spent
half a day typing that.

There's about 10 linear feet, if you or anyone wants to get those,
you're welcome.

**

So, anyone interested in a bunch of early 20th-c clothing data?

' |   BroomIAmBroom @ gmail . com
' |   cellphone: 412-389-1997
' |   9370 Shadduck Rd,  McKean, PA 16426
' |   Discere et docere, which means:
'\|/  Never mind all the political banter, I'm just glad we were able
'/|\  to catch Saddam before he could use his SS agents to fly planes
//|\\ into Pearl Harbor again. -yohan, DamnInteresting.com
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Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

2010-06-02 Thread monica spence
This is a copy of the outfit worn by Federigo Gonzaga C. 1529. I think they
used what they had for the lace.
Monica


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Maggie
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 6:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

It doesn't look much like (what we can make out of) the ruff in the painting
is a copy of.


MaggiRos


Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 8:08 PM, Elizabeth Walpole 
elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com wrote:

 On the topic of ruffs and cuffs, I wonder about the lace on this cuff


http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/2724203114/sizes/l/in/set-72157606
495042137/I'm
 no lace expert, but embroidery on net, especially hexagonal/octagonal
 net that fine strikes me as more 18th century than 16th century.

 Has anybody got evidence that embroidery on such a fine bobbin made net is
 a
 period way to make lace in the later 16th century?

 --
 Elizabeth Walpole
 http://magpiecostumer.wordpress.com/
 http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/
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Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

2010-06-01 Thread monica spence
As I recall, some of the ruffs were paper. It was probably easier to keep
them stiff rather than have to was/starch/redo the fabric kind. This stuff
has been on tour for years.

Monica 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Maggie
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

Totally breathtaking--except for the ruffs being all candy-ribbon/cartridge
pleated instead of gathered and shaped. But otherwise, pretty impressive.


MaggiRos

Maggie Secara
~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603
Available at your favorite online bookseller
See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress


On Sun, May 30, 2010 at 8:45 PM, Franchesca
franchesca.ha...@gmail.comwrote:

 WOW! Those are some RUFFS! :)

 Franchesca

  -Original Message-
  From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]
  On Behalf Of A. Thurman
  Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 7:32 PM
  To: Historic Costume List
  Subject: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos
 
  My photo set on Flickr is here:
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/sets/72157606495042137/
 
  Please feel free to share the link.
 
  Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

2010-05-31 Thread monica spence
Allison,
Great pics! Especially the details.

The fabrics were all supposed to be woven on the same (type) antique looms
as the originals.

There was a wonderful booklet they handed out in NYC with pics of many of
these garments.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of A. Thurman
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 10:32 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos

My photo set on Flickr is here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/sets/72157606495042137/

Please feel free to share the link.

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] New to me - Historic Clothing Reconstruction

2010-05-27 Thread monica spence


It was a amazing exhibit, but not well publicized. It was held in the CUNY
Grad Center on 5th Ave.

I went several times. The curator guard/ lady watching the stuff allowed me
to crawl around the Eleonora de Toledo gown-- and she was wearing a
farthingale, just as Janet Arnold said!

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wicked Frau
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:28 PM
To: Historical Costume; therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] New to me - Historic Clothing Reconstruction

http://www.kingstudio.it/

I must have been asleep in 2004.  How did I miss this exhibit in NY???

Very cool.

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummy

2010-03-03 Thread monica spence
Mine's Matilda because she is unsteady on her base-- she waltzes with
me.

Monica t 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Käthe Barrows
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 7:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummy

Mine's Patience, because she'll stand there patiently, for days if she has
to, and never complain.

On Wed, Mar 3, 2010 at 12:40 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote:

 My latest dummy only got her name after I carefully removed her overly
 extended breasts. Bessie Blunt is a play on Elizabeth Bessie Blount, one
 of King Henry VIII's mistresses. I've been doing a bit of Henrician stuff
 recently.

 Kimiko

  Kimiko Small
 http://www.kimiko1.com
 Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi


 The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern
 http://www.margospatterns.com/



 I'm sure others can make excellent suggestions,
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes



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-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”
-William Gibson
--
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Re: [h-cost] Grading patterns

2010-01-29 Thread monica spence
I am sticking my nose in here. I spent 25 years as a patternmaker/designer
in NYC. 

Both Gerber and Lectra have computer grading programs. The software and
hardware are HUGELY expensive. My suggestion is to contact either of these
companies to see if there is someone in your area (or ever outside the area)
for names of companies who do grading and marking. It may be pricey at
first, but once you have the patterns you can make oak tag copies and use
them forever.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 4:21 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grading patterns

I need to be able to grade a pattern up and down in size from a 0 up  
to probably a 20 something.  I don't want to have to repattern a  
garment for each size.

?

Sylvia Rognstad
Costume/clothing design  construction
Alterations  home dec
http://www.ezzyworld.com




On Jan 29, 2010, at 1:46 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

 At 12:13 PM 1/29/2010, you wrote:
 Sylvia, I think your question entirely appropriate for this list.  
 I have a  whole archive of historic patterns that I'd like to  
 grade (none of  them is even close to my own size!), but have  
 never attempted. If you  hear of a grader/service, I might be  
 interested, too. Many thanks for posting!
 == Marjorie Wilser =:
  On Jan 29, 2010, at 9:31 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:   I know  
 this question isn't related specifically to historic   costuming,  
 but I think some of you have made businesses from your   passion  
 for such and may have needed to grade their patterns up and
 down for sale.   In the past, I have done my own grading, but  
 I've   never really learned totally how to do it and I have some  
 ideas for   new designs that, if they sell, I may need to size  
 them up or down   and these may be too complex for me to try on  
 my own.  Does anyone   know of any professional graders?  I live  
 in Colorado, but I imagine   I could ship my patterns out of  
 state if I can't find someone here.  
  Sylvia Rognstad

 When I first made a dress for Dickens Faire and Sutter's Fort about  
 30 years ago (!), there were no commercial patterns anywhere near  
 my size or shape.  Given that I am very short-waisted, I found it  
 easier to start from my own fitted sloper and then make changes to  
 give the cut of the dress I wanted.  For example, a standard sloper  
 has a side-bust dart; in the 19th century dresses the bust darts  
 are from the waist; so I changed the bust darts to match my desired  
 look.  You might find this easier than grading a historical  
 pattern, I certainly did.


 Joan Jurancich
 joa...@surewest.net
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Re: [h-cost] Sound of Music

2009-12-28 Thread monica spence
Directors and stars have a huge amount of input on what people wear in the
movies. Most stay pretty close to the current styles--- which date really
fast. However, these were made before the VCR/ DVD era where people can
watch and appreciate (or not) the clothes more often and more critically. 

One star who really wanted to do the right thing with period clothes was
Bette Davis. She shaved her hairline, wore wigs and more period gowns for
Elizabeth and Exeter. Compare her to Joan Collins in the same movie--her
clothes were pure fantasy.

Monica



Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City
monicaspe...@optonline.net 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 7:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sound of Music

I noticed that too when watching Giant, I think it was.  It starts in  
the early 1920s but the costumes look like 1950s, when the movie was  
made.  For some reason, it seems like costume designers from the 50s  
and 60s were not at all interested in any sort of historical accuracy.

?

Sylvia Rognstad
Costume/clothing design  construction
Alterations  home dec
http://www.ezzyworld.com




On Dec 28, 2009, at 5:15 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:




  The outfits that Baroness Schraeder
 ears struck me as not particularly 1930s, but I really don't know  
 anything
 bout that period, so I thought of asking what this list had to  
 say.  Any
 pinions?

 When I worked in a local theatre costume shop, several of the  
 regulars were big fans of the movie, but, given the awful costumes,  
 I couldn't see why.  Yes, the Baroness is in '60s fashions.  The  
 hairstyles and makeup are even worse. Maria, of course, is in  
 generic middle European peasant style at the beginning.  Don't  
 know how authentic the nuns' habits are, but at least they look right.

 Ann Wass



 -Original Message-
 From: Martha Sieting oserm...@msu.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2009 2:42 pm
 Subject: [h-cost] Sound of Music


 So hubby and I watched The Sound of Music last night (there was  
 nothing else
 n and those old classics are fun sometimes anyway) and I found  
 myself wondering
 bout the authenticity of the costuming.  The outfits that Baroness  
 Schraeder
 ears struck me as not particularly 1930s, but I really don't know  
 anything
 bout that period, so I thought of asking what this list had to  
 say.  Any
 pinions?
 Many thanks and happy holidays!
 -Martha
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Re: [h-cost] Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy

2009-10-06 Thread monica spence
I had 2 and gave one to a friend (my SCA apprentice)  as a gift.  :-)
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 5:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy

Amazon has used for $495.00
http://tinyurl.com/y9mhjxc
-Original Message-


http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/ListingDetails?bi=1415884424cm_ven=nlcm_ca
t=trgcm_pla=wantcm_ite=viewbook

If you REALLY want a copy; this one is US$650.  I find maybe one copy
every two years and this is the cheapest I've seen it quite some time.

--Charlene

--
The trouble with most people is that they think with their hopes or
fears or wishes rather than with their minds.  -- Will Durant
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Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book

2009-10-01 Thread monica spence
I bought it a long time ago-- back in the late 70s/ 80s when there was very
little published about costume/clothing. I have used it to check definitions
a few times. 

I would not throw it-- sell it on eBay.
Monica


Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Käthe Barrows
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 12:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book

 I have a copy of The Encyclopedia of World Costume, by Doreen Yarwood.
Any
 opinions on this one? Is it worth saving or should I toss it?

I saw a copy once, and didn't buy it, no regrets.  I didn't like it.

-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”   -William
Gibson
--
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Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book

2009-10-01 Thread monica spence
The Wilcox book has redrawings c. 50s. Not good for silhouettes, however if
it leads you to the original painting, it serves a purpose.

Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 11:33 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book

It is a very popular book with the libraries. 

I have a copy that I found at Half-Price in Austin a while ago. It is a very
inexpensive book still. Kinda like A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion:
Historic and Modern.

The great thing about these books? They force you to find the slapped
together images individually in their original paintings. The colors never
really match but it makes for a great visual trivial pursuit game with bored
costumers stuck somewhere too long. :D

The book I would recommend if you can find a copy is Dictionary of Costume
by R. Turner Wilcox.

?
Chiara Francesca
 Ehi Prof.! Che cosa facciamo stasera?
 Quello che facciamo tutte le sere, Mignolo: tentare di conquistare il
mondo! 
(hint: italian)


 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]
 On Behalf Of Sharon Collier
 Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:37 PM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: [h-cost] Opinions on this book
 
 I have a copy of The Encyclopedia of World Costume, by Doreen
 Yarwood. Any
 opinions on this one? Is it worth saving or should I toss it?
 Sharon C.
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Re: [h-cost] Do anyone know this lady? (Italian portrait)

2009-09-28 Thread monica spence
Maybe from his workshop, I would guess it is probably not from the master's
hand. 
Monica Spence
PS- I have it too in my files, it just says Florentine.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Käthe Barrows
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 5:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Do anyone know this lady? (Italian portrait)

I'm guessing it's a Bronzino painting.  You might try Googling on
Bronzinoand looking at the images.

On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 2:36 PM, Tracy Thallas fathal...@collinscom.net
wrote:
  Am hunting the references on this painting -

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies/3963118205/

   Picked her up somewhere or other online, and now I really need to know
 where she lives and who painted her.

  Thanks for looking!

 Liadain

 THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
  You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
 http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
    NEW!!!  Website in progress!!!-
 http://practicalblackwork.com




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-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”   -William
Gibson
--
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Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history

2009-08-16 Thread monica spence
I looked for an on-line PhD in Costume History due to my location/ schedule.
I never found one. 

It is not a matter of WHEN you get your degree, it is important to DO it.

I got my MA in 1976 in Theater with a specialization in costume. I spent 6
years as a costume designer in the theater, 24 on 7th Avenue as a designer,
and I now teach fashion history and other aspects of fashion design, so no
grass grew under my feet. There are so many great programs now I almost envy
the students starting today.
 
The PhD--- well, I am starting one in October. Creative Writing/ Distance
Learning at Lancaster U. in England. I will have to suffer through the short
residencies in the UK while I research my historical fiction-- and the
clothes people wore. Poor me. :-)

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of e...@huskers.unl.edu
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 4:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history

Hey, and Cornell's on my husband's list of possible schools!
Thank you.

Emma

From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of
annbw...@aol.com [annbw...@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 3:31 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history

Cornell also has a program.

Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Pennsic

2009-07-10 Thread monica spence
I am on the Pennsic Staff (again). I run the Arts  Science Display on
Monday August 3. Come show your work! 

Monica E. Spence  (aka: Catriona MacDuff, costuming Laurel) 


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of cc2010m...@cs.com
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:17 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pennsic

In a message dated 7/9/2009 11:00:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes: 
 From: Leah Janette bear_ja...@msn.com
 
 
 If you decide to go to Pennsic, post to the list.

I am not going, but one of my staff will be on Dealer's Row. She meet a few 
cross-over SCA/Costumers at CC27. I am sure she would like to meet more. 
I'll get info from her about shop name and what she sells. I believe saris, 
but I want to make sure.

Henry W. Osier
Chairman, Costume-Con 28
May 7 to May 10, 2010
www.CC28.org
Look for our fan page on Facebook!
And on Twitter: CostumeCon28
Got questions? 
Join the CostumeCon Yahoo group!
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Re: [h-cost] Pennsic

2009-07-10 Thread monica spence
Howdy. I often wonder why people's names look familiar. :-)
Monica (Catriona)

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Carroll-Clark
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 11:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pennsic



 In a message dated 7/9/2009 11:00:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
 h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes: 
   
 From: Leah Janette bear_ja...@msn.com


 If you decide to go to Pennsic, post to the list.

I'll be at Pennsic.  I am otherwise known as the editor of the Pennsic 
Independentand Trillium Herald for the Kingdom of Ealdormere.

Susan (Nicolaa)
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Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toldeo portrait?

2009-05-20 Thread monica spence
I've seen the painting on the net and we discussed this a while back. Please
don't think I am a know-it all on this, but here is what I know and have
studied. 

Here's the original story.
A BBC correspondent has returned a Renaissance painting of Eleonora of
Toledo to a German museum after discovering it was looted during World War
II.

Here's the story:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/5037002.stm
**


However.You know...

I've been researching Eleonora and Co. for about 20 years. 

This picture does not look like Eleonora of Toledo, 2nd Duchess of Florence,
to me. 
It looks like our Eleonora's niece Eleonora of Toledo, (she was the
daughter of her brother Garcia). The younger Eleonora married Cosimo and
Eleonora's youngest son Pietro (their 11th child)and was later murdered by
him for supposed infidelity. (Not that he was any prize, but let's not go
there...)

The portrait in the BBC article is similar to at least 2 other paintings of
the younger Eleonora I know of. I think the dress is in this portrait too
late in style for our Eleonora-- the standing collar is a much later
style.

Our Eleonora had a very distinctive style that she brought with her to
Florence and used it for her official and family portraits throughout her
life.

Also, if it was by Allori, I think he would have painted a more flattering
portrait, such as the one in Duke Francesco's Studiolo, which made her look
beautiful and healthy, just the was Francesco wanted to remember his mom.
Alorri painting would have been posthumous anyway... Bronzino's portraits of
our Eleonora show her very gaunt toward the end of her life and her style
of clothing is consistent.








Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City
11 Beach Street
New York, New York 10013
212-226-5500

Home:
631-665-9505
cell: 516-635-1839
monicaspe...@optonline.net 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 6:47 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toldeo portrait?

  While wandering the web last night, came upon this -
http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/blackwork-cuff-on-an-italian-r
enaissance-gown.html

Has anyone seen this portrait before, or have any idea of its
attribution?  If it's real (Eleanor or not) I'd love to see a better image
and have the provenance... (I ain't getting in the true and faux
blackwork fight there ;-)  )

Liadain

You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
http://practical-blackwork.tripod.com


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Re: [h-cost] Dressing like an American

2009-04-26 Thread monica spence
When I was 14 (1967) I went to Europe. School trip. We were told NO pants. I
just remember wearing my light blue raincoat ALL the time. Of course it came
in handy in the rain in Rome. 
 Monica
  

Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA
Lead Instructor, Fashion Department
Art Institute of New York City
11 Beach Street
New York, New York 10013
212-226-5500

Home:
631-665-9505
cell: 516-635-1839
monicaspe...@optonline.net 


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Claire Clarke
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 8:17 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dressing like an American

Hi all,

 Some of you who were alive back then might not consider this historic
costume, but I thought this was a good place to ask this question. I was
recently reading 'The Gabriel Hounds' by Mary Stewart, which is set in
Lebanon in, I think the '60's (1960's that is). The narrator is English but
has been living in America and at one point describes herself as 'dressing
like an American'. I was curious how differently American and English women
might have dressed at this time. Is this another way of saying that she
dressed informally? Or wore trousers a lot?

 

Claire

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Re: [h-cost] Mary I ???

2009-03-01 Thread monica spence
FWIW and IMHO it looks Victorian. Might have been based on a Holbein, but I
don't think the pic is 16th C.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 6:06 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Mary I ???


http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/Y/Q/2/mary_i_tudor_holbein_001a.jpg

Anyone seen this one before - the image name indicates it is a Holbein??

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Photos of abandoned garment factory

2009-01-15 Thread monica spence
As a designer and patternmaker who's job went off-shore in 2003, this makes
me want to cry.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 4:49 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Photos of abandoned garment factory


These are photos of an abandoned clothing factory.  I believe it is in
Baltimore, Maryland.  It is really sad all that was left in the factory.
There are two sets of photos:
http://community.livejournal.com/abandonedplaces/1518816.html#cutid1
http://community.livejournal.com/abandonedplaces/1530073.html#cutid1

This link was passed along to me.  I do not know a thing about the salvage
of the factory.  If you have question,  the owner of the webpages.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?

2009-01-08 Thread monica spence
Van Dyck painted silver ruffs on noblewomen from Genoa. Not black but
interesting. Also, in one the neck ruff and the wrist ruffs are a different
color.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
Behalf Of mlysett
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 3:08 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More black ruffs?


I just happened to borrow Strong's English Icon, so I thumbed through it
looking for black ruffs.  There aren't any all-black ruffs, but there are a
few edged in black and a few more that are heavily embroidered with
blackwork.  I could only find three online:

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ThomasHoward1.jpg
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/FrancisSidney.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/blackmary.jpg

If you'd like more pictures, email me privately and I'll see if I can get
them scanned.

Margaret Roe




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Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts

2008-12-31 Thread monica spence
Pretty pictures. Racinet was the be-all-and-end-all at his time (19th C.),
but everything is redrawn. (Better you should look at original art.) However
it is fun to find the original art and then see how he changed it.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]on
Behalf Of Kay Shelton
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 8:26 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts



I received The Complete Costume History by Auguste Racinet.  Anyone know
anything about it? How's the scholarship or shall I just look at the pretty
pictures?  It is a huge book.  Kay






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Re: [h-cost] searching for a textiles textbook

2008-10-14 Thread monica spence
We use the Fairchild Textbook: Fabric Science, 8th ed. by Price, Cohen,
Johnson. Has a workbook with swatches. Pretty technical, but no color pics
like Textiles by Kandolf.


Monica
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 1:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] searching for a textiles textbook


Hello to the list!

I know some of you teach or have taught textile classes, and it is you to
whom I come with a request for assistance:

I am in the process of writing up a pair of fiber classes (Fibers 101 and
102) and I am looking for a textiles textbook with useful discussions of
fiber properties including hand, drape, shrinkage, all that good stuff. I
have had Kadolph  Langford's _Textiles_ recommended to me as the one
that's used at the U of M(innesota)--are there any others that people
might recommend?

Many thanks,

Jen
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Re: [h-cost] Herni Bendel history

2008-10-12 Thread monica spence
Henri Bendel was a shopkeeper, like RH Macy and B Altman.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 2:27 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Herni Bendel history


I know that Herni W. Bendel is a present day store. But in 1917 would he
have been a fashion designer?  I have an article in a Harper's from 1917
with fashion plates by this person.

Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
10 websites of costume, fashion and textile history.
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Re: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes

2008-10-12 Thread monica spence
Many women were painted while pregnant. Remember-- not only was she doing
her duty, but she had a 25% chance of dying while doing it.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:42 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th century maternity clothes




Maggie wrote:
 The More women hadn't slit their dresses. It's just the early/mid-century
 style.They were made to lace that way. What the picture shows is the
lacing
 without the stomacher or (over) gown. For a pregnant woman at home, it
must
 have been much more comfortable.

 Here's an Elizabethan noblewoman (1595)  in maternity. (Why would you have
 your picture painted at this stage!?)

To record that you were fulfilling one of your most important duties,
that of creating heirs for the family.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

2008-10-10 Thread monica spence
My cap, gown and Masters hood from my recent graduation from Seton Hill
University.
Monica



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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

2008-10-10 Thread monica spence
Thanks!
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Gilbert
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 7:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


Congratulations on your graduation, Monica!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 5:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?


 My cap, gown and Masters hood from my recent graduation from Seton Hill
 University.
 Monica
 
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] what is your dressform wearing?

2008-09-30 Thread monica spence
Hanna, The dress is lovely. Thanks for sharing.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 3:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what is your dressform wearing?


My dressform is still wearing Dürer´s
Nürnbergerin im Hauskleid. I finished it in
June for my master craftswoman degree in
costuming and still found no place to store the
pleated apron. Here´s a picture of the costume
in action: http://s6.directupload.net/file/d/1464/aob843cf_jpg.htm :-)
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Re: [h-cost] general fitting questions

2008-08-22 Thread monica spence
Dawn-- 
You can put a gusset under the arms. That would help a lot.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 2:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] general fitting questions


I made up Vogue 7733 to wear at an event last week and had some fitting 
issues with it.

http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/2/itm_img/V7733.jpg

Here's a bad pic of me wearing it:

http://www.reddawn.net/temp/DSCN3883.jpg

I know how to solve the falling-off-the-shoulders problem. What was 
killing me is that I can't raise my arms in this thing. The model in the 
first image demonstrates the limit of range-of-motion available. I had 
trouble just getting my shoulder bag on my shoulder because I couldn't 
lift my arms enough.  How do I fix this? What do I need to adjust on the 
pattern so I can do more than just stand around and look pretty wearing 
this top? I don't need to do jumping jacks, but I couldn't even push my 
hair out of my face without difficulty.


Dawn



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Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain

2008-08-13 Thread monica spence
This is fabulous! Thank you  both for sharing this.
Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:08 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos
Cathedral,Madrid Spain


http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf
 
My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy

Sg

Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume.

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Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat

2008-07-27 Thread monica spence
It is called a Balzo. You can find info at:

http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/balzo-new.htm

http://mariwashere.com/index2.php?option=com_contentdo_pdf=1id=26

http://www.sword.net/jessica/firenze/Early15thCenturyBalzo.pdf


Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Becky Rautine
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 4:43 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat



I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like Italian
hat, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of the Shrew. It's a
bel? I can't remember the term and can't seem to find a description in
any painting.
http://www.abcgallery.com/T/titian/titian96.html
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/secflor29.htmlSincerely,
Rebecca Rautine
_
Time for vacation? WIN what you need- enter now!
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergiveaway/?ocid=tag_jlyhm
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Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums events

2008-07-26 Thread monica spence
The  Rijksmuseum (Rembrandt Museum) and Anne Frank's house are both must-see
places in Amseredam. Also-- anyplace that sells chocolate and baked goods.
However, beware of the damage to your waistline!

Oh, yes, drugs are legal there, so be careful of where you bring children.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 5:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums  events


At 21:37 26/07/2008, you wrote:
Ladies  Gents,
H-costume archives doesnt have much on this question, so I'll pose it
directly: What's to do in Amsterdam  nearby?

I'm going to be in Amsterdam for a vacation next week and maybe a bit
after, and as usual I'm looking for ideas of where to go with an
extended family group.  I'm mostly in to high fashion historic
costuming, social dance  history from the early Renn up to and
including the 19th century. We're also interested in more than just
wearable stuff: castles, living history events.

My husband, bro-in-law, sis in law  I are all engineers and some of
the teenage nephews are headed that way so ships, airplanes, how a
wind mill works, science  tech museums are good fun.

If you have any ideas for family friendly events (the family runs ages
10-70+), we'd like those, too.  We'll have cars, so sites 1-2 hrs out
of town are also accessible.

Got any great suggestions?
Got any out there suggestions?
Thanks for the help,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

It's a very long time since I was in Amsterdam, but the city itself
is walkable if you are fit and healthy - mostly flat. Most people
travel by bike or by tram(?).

The Rijksmuseum is one of the great museums of the Western world. I
saw nowhere near a 10th of it I think. They have an excellent zoo,
and somewhere near, there are, I believe, diamond cutting demonstrations.

(And of course there is the Red Light district, but I think they
have toned down the area!)

Best I can do, I'm afraid.

Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric

2008-07-18 Thread monica spence
OMG! This is great!! 

Chinese Tartans???

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:57 PM
To: Historic Costume List
Subject: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric


A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:

http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/

And it's kosher!

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society

2008-07-10 Thread monica spence
Speaking of Janet Arnold--
Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3
friends, that is).
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 5:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society



A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766 in Costume,
London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21.

Bjarne this comes from here:  Someone posted this source awhile back...can't
remember who...
http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html

Sg

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200
 Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society

 Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet
Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in
1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut.
What i need is the year of the publikation.
 Thankyou...

 Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-09 Thread monica spence
Constance--

Perhaps I am misreading your post. I hope so. I have no interest in starting
an email flame war.
However, sometimes I must bow to the eloquence of others.

FWIW-I would recommend you try to type while construction is going on above
your head and then count your typos. (We are in the midst of kitchen
construction,
and being online is one of the few escapes from the mess. My kitchen is
filled with
large men doing plumbing and tilework as I write this.)

BTW-- the Baroness business-- while maybe amusing to you, was in response to
the
response from a gentleman who answered to my question on FLDS, which I had
never heard of.
His SCA title was at the end of his post, and I responded in kind to let him
know we are both in the SCA. Sorry if you thought it was funny or if you
took offense.

People here have many other talents and interests that play into the area of
historical clothing.

Monica
Professor and SCA Baroness


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Constance Britten
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 1:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


Priofessor?

Yup, that's a good one!  *Very* funny!

(Even better than that Baroness whatchamacallit business.)

;-)

-- Constance


monica spence wrote:
 Being funny-- really.

 Monica
 Priofessor of Fashion History
 Art Institute of New York City



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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
FLDS?

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
Thanks, Frank.

All that Poly is HOT in the summer.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Fundamentalist Church of the Latter-Day Saints.  It's a polygamist group
that broke away from the main body of the Mormon church.
If you Google, I'm sure you will find many *ahem* interesting news
stories...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
Keeps a girl's figure.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:07 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Mmmm.  Nothing like doing farm work while wearing a plastic tent

Liadain (Mrs Frank...G)

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:03 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

Thanks, Frank.

All that Poly is HOT in the summer.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:51 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Fundamentalist Church of the Latter-Day Saints.  It's a polygamist group
that broke away from the main body of the Mormon church.
If you Google, I'm sure you will find many *ahem* interesting news
stories...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

FLDS?

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jodi Nelson
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:18 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


I live in St George UT and the FLDS are about 2 hours away in Colorado
City/Hildale, two towns in the UT/AZ border.I used to work in the JoAnn
Fabrics here and saw many FLDS women in the store often.They use the poly
fabric (a heavy gabardine or suiting) because it stands away from the body
and does not follow the contours, preserving modesty. Some families do use
softer, more flowing fabrics, but most use the heavy poly.

The money apparently is being pooled and doled out on a need basis. The FLDS
community follows the United Effort Plan- all held in common by the church
and given back out based on need. I am not sure how it is administered, but
nobody owns anything.




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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
Isn't that considered abuse? 
Monica
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:14 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


 All that Poly is HOT in the summer.
 
 Monica
 

Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida
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Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
The biggest problem in my experience with poly is the fact it holds body
oder so well. This might be good to help for police dogs, but not for people
who wear it.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Candace Perry
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:09 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)


The Amish, I do believe, wear poly doubleknit almost exclusively...certainly
easy to ascertain if you hang out in Lancaster Co. PA long enough!  It is
easy to care for.
There is nothing quite as fragrant as an Amish adolescent boy in a violet
poly shirt.
Candace Perry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Shane Sheridan Chabot
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing (Was FLDS Clothing)


Where I grew up in the Canadian prairies there are numerous Hutterite
communities that have a similar modest dress code. You can often tell which
colony they came from by the colors they wear. Predominantly blues, navy and

black were the most common in my area, and others have a bit more variety in

color especially for their youth. Boys wear dark slacks, white or light
colored (blue or grey) shirts and suspenders. Old fashioned Hats in felt or
straw also very common. Girls are either in a full skirted lower calf or
ankle length dress or a full skirt and very modest blouse. All of the ladies

wore a black or navy kerchief that always had white polkadots on their head
and often aprons - I think mostly for the married women. Little girls wore
bonnets. Very germanic in feel, in fact most of them still speak German. As
a kid I always got a kick out of the fact most of the girls wore white
running shoes - very anachronistic. :0)

The Mennonites were much more open to modern clothing, but many of the women

adopt a simple modest style - jumper style dresses and blouses, long skirts,

very specific hairstyles and sometimes a simple head cover/bonnet.

Sheridan P


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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 6:10 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


 

Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In
Texas...While doing hard physical labor...

I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound...

Astrida

   Who cares, it's only wimmen..
Oooo.  Did I say that with my outside voice?   ;-P

  Seriously, comfort/safety are not high on the list.

Liadain
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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
Yes-- I just LOVE to stir the pot. Ask anyone. :-)


Baroness Catriona MacDuff OL, OP yadayada
East Kingdom 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Frank A Thallas Jr
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:01 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


  Heh.  You gonna open a BIG old can of fish with THAT one. G

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 2:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
Monica


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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
Yup. :-)

Monica 
Professior of Fashion History
Art Institute of NYC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:08 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing



On Jul 8, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
 --- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
 Monica

 Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure.

It's one that's probably way outside the scope of this list, at least  
as it's phrased. Discussing strictures, sumptuary laws and appropriate  
dress for a period may be appropriate (and necessary to understand how  
to recreate historical costume properly) and it may be possible to  
have a dispassionate discussion about the cultural circumstances in  
which historical costume developed...

...but gross generalization is always inappropriate.

andy
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Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

2008-07-08 Thread monica spence
Being funny-- really.

Monica 
Priofessor of Fashion History
Art Institute of New York City

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 8:36 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing


Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure.

Kimiko


--- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear?
 Monica



  
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants

2008-06-01 Thread monica spence
Don't nurses wear veils in the UK? I remember from several movies...
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 12:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants



In a message dated 5/31/2008 10:52:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I think  nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol,  though.




I wonder how nun's veils play into this. Sisters of mercy, y'know. Many
nuns
were nurses y'know, from the beginning.



**Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch Cooking with
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Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest

2008-05-21 Thread monica spence
Hi Scarlett--
I just looked on Amazon.uk, but can't find it. What is the title of the
book?
Thanks,
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:32 AM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold latest


Good morning,
I know this was discussed a while back and I did a follow up. Amazon now is
taking pre-orders on the new Janet Arnold book, but I found it on the UK
site not the USA site. It will be 30.00 pounds and release date is november
7th. I also they had a reduced price on the Queen Elizabeth book 75.00
pounds and it is listed with the USA site for about $120.00, good deal but
not as low as it was a few years ago.

Scarlett
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Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance dress

2008-05-17 Thread monica spence

Henry VIII considered himself a good Catholic til the day he died, even
though the Pope did not. :-) There are lots of examples of people wearing
crosses in that period -- check out those done by Holbein.

As for the later period... maybe. Charles I was notoriously sympathetic to
Catholics because of Henrietta Maria, his wife.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 5:12 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance
dress



--
Karen wrote:

I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off
base on the necklace. If you look
closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and
H. In period it was
common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials
of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most
familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as
being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation
although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out
of the question.

That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of
the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but
decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered too Papist
at the time.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold bibliography

2008-05-09 Thread monica spence
Hi Dawn--
There used to be one online. Google Janet Arnold. 
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 6:55 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Janet Arnold bibliography


Is there a collected list of her lifelong works? I have Patterns of 
Fashion and QEWU, but would like to see some of the articles and short 
pieces she wrote. Anyone got a good bibliography for her?



Dawn

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[h-cost] New Topics-- please!!!!!

2008-04-28 Thread monica spence

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

Anyone want to talk about costume and clothing?

Hi Kass-- Nice to see you here!

Anyone have any recommendations for costume in and around Florence? I am
thinking of side trips for the Janet Arnold Conference in November.

Monica Spence



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Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!!!!!

2008-04-28 Thread monica spence
I know nothing about them. Thanks for the links!
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Kass McGann
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!


Hi Monica,

Thanks for the warm welcome!

Can we talk about flat-bottomed armholes?  I'm totally on about
flat-bottomed armholes.

Kass
 http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/
Looking for the perfect gift for the RH fan on your list?  Try a RH Gift
Certificate
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php?s=c=123d=160e=f=g=w=21
q=1p=360r=Y .  They never expire!
http://reconstructinghistory.com
http://community.livejournal.com/rh_community/
http://kass-rants.livejournal.com
http://www.reconstructinghistory.blogspot.com/


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of monica spence
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:00 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!



Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

Anyone want to talk about costume and clothing?

Hi Kass-- Nice to see you here!

Anyone have any recommendations for costume in and around Florence? I am
thinking of side trips for the Janet Arnold Conference in November.

Monica Spence



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Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!!!!!

2008-04-28 Thread monica spence

Anybody up for a roll call to see who from the h-cost list will be in
Florence for the conference?

Monica Spence, New York City (actually Long Island, but I teach in NYC)


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:17 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!



 Anyone have any recommendations for costume in and around Florence? I am
 thinking of side trips for the Janet Arnold Conference in November.

No, but I'm planning on being there and would love to see a friendly face!

Emma

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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-27 Thread monica spence
Hi Fran--
Why is it depressing that many of us are in the SCA?

In order to participate in the SCA, a person has to wear a reasonable
attempt at pre-17th C. clothing. A lot of us find there is challenge and
fun in going beyond the minimum. I think that it is great that so many go
the extra mile for their hobby.

Monica Spence

In Society known as:
Baroness Catriona MacDuff
OL,OP,CM,CSC,KoE,QoC,PA,PA,AoA,OSF,OSS
East Kingdom


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 3:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own


What I find both interesting and depressing in this discussion is that
(a) judging from the books discussed, almost all the people who collect
and spend much money on costume books are in the SCA and (b) a lot of
people would rather spend money on fabric and sewing machines.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-27 Thread monica spence

We are just lucky I guess.  Most of us garb-and-research-types are
book-aholics. She/he who dies with the most books wins the love and undying
affection of she/he who inherits the books. :-)
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 4:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own


It's not depressing that you are in the SCA, it's depressing that
other groups do not seem to value books nearly as much.

Fran

monica spence wrote:
 Hi Fran--
 Why is it depressing that many of us are in the SCA?

 In order to participate in the SCA, a person has to wear a reasonable
 attempt at pre-17th C. clothing. A lot of us find there is challenge and
 fun in going beyond the minimum. I think that it is great that so many go
 the extra mile for their hobby.

 Monica Spence

 In Society known as:
 Baroness Catriona MacDuff
 OL,OP,CM,CSC,KoE,QoC,PA,PA,AoA,OSF,OSS
 East Kingdom


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Lavolta Press
 Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 3:33 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own


 What I find both interesting and depressing in this discussion is that
 (a) judging from the books discussed, almost all the people who collect
 and spend much money on costume books are in the SCA and (b) a lot of
 people would rather spend money on fabric and sewing machines.

 Fran
 Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
 http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-04-25 Thread monica spence

About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
Hundreds. My library is better than most public libraries-- at least for
art,  history and costume.

What was the first one you purchased?  197O (when I was in college)  Where
did you purchase it? Have no clue. Memory fails after a certain age. :-)

What was your most recent purchase? The new Henry VIII book (I can't
remember the title-- We are doing kitchen renovation and my brain is fried)

What do you think was the best deal that you have every made when purchasing
a publication? Roy Strong-- English Icons. Bought used for about $20. Also
his Elizabethan  Jacobean Portraits-- 2 volumes. Pristine. $45.00

About how many period photographs do you own just for the costuming? A
gazillion. I keep them in photo protective sheets in the largest 3 ring
binder made.

What book or magazine is your most treasured...if your house was on fire,
you would take it with you. Moda di Firenze. I have two copies (one is a
gift). Since I am writing about Cosimo and Eleonora, it is my best
reference. Of course, if push came to shove, I'd grab my manuscripts for the
3 books I've written. (on portable hard drive sticks)  

What is the worse costume book that you own?  I know Robin has a collection!
Me too. Mode in Costume by Ruth Turner Wilcox tops my list.

Do you have a room devoted to your collection? Actually several. We have a
library which houses Art and History. My dressmaking patternmaking and
costume history are in the sewing room. The other books are in our bedroom,
our guest room and the computer room. Not to mention the stuff under the
eaves. 

When did you start collecting? 1970
Do you consider your collection for business or pleasure? Both. I was a
costume designer for 6 years, a fashion designer for 24, and now I teach
fashion history. Plus I am in the SCA.

Optional questions:

How many sewing machines do you own? 4 . What types and age? 3 straight
stitch (one lives with my brother) and  a serger. The straight stitch
machines are 1940s and 1950s vintage Singers. The Serger is probably 15
years old and also a Singer. 

How many sewing patterns do you own? Commercial: less than 30. I make my own
patterns for the SCA garb since I am also a professional patternmaker.

Monica Spence


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Re: [h-cost] book lust G

2008-04-14 Thread monica spence
Ouch! Try Michael Shemansky Bookseller (online) for MdF. He usually includes
shipping in his prices, I think. It is about $100 for the book and it was in
his mostt recent catalogue. He KNOWS about us costumers. I told him of the
book's popularity when he questioned me why so many people were asking about
it.

I plan to read it --again-- before the Janet Arnold Costume Collequium in
Florence in November.

QEWU is about $250 the last time I saw it advertised anywhere. Thet is a lot
more scarce.

Monica
in NYC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 4:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] book lust G


I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming
book) at a Ren Faire this weekend.  I was all set to add it to my collection
but was shocked at the price.  The last time I looked it was going for about
$80 U.S.  Yesterday it was priced at $148.

Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two?  Is there another
less costly vendor?

BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
going for now?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego
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Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip

2008-04-14 Thread monica spence
Thanks.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of David S. Mallinak
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 9:18 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip


monica spence wrote:

 Do you remember who made that DVD with the Highlander Flashbacks? I teach
 fashion history and this would be SOO cool.

My memory, after so many years, was a product of the production company. l.

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak


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Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-02 Thread monica spence
Drea Leeds has the image on her site in Black and White:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.elizabethancostume.net/low
erclass/lcolor.jpgimgrefurl=http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/fl
emish-dress.htmlh=257w=266sz=69hl=enstart=5sig2=nrGtYqUjKybQHWDsCuquyw
tbnid=FCajIe6J7IC0DM:tbnh=109tbnw=113ei=GkL0R9XyJqmkpwTqoYG_DQprev=/ima
ges%3Fq%3DSixteenth%2Bcentury%2Bmiddle%2Bclass%2Bwomen%2B%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3De
n%26sa%3DG

Monica


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 10:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help finding image


I don't have an on-line source, but it's on page 80 of my 'Visual History of
Costume: The Sixteenth Century' by Jane Ashelford.

Karen
Seamstrix

-- Rebecca Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Alright - I thought I had one bookmarked, but cannot find it when I need it!
I am looking for an online source of the image which shows 4 or 5 English
women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something like
countrywoman. If I'm not mixing up my images, she is carrying a basket
(with chickens) to take to market in town. One of the other women may be
a citizen of London Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a
link to this image somewhere?? Thank you!!!


***

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence

Bristol Renaissance Faire



My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash

***


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Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip

2008-03-30 Thread monica spence
Hi David!

Do you remember who made that DVD with the Highlander Flashbacks? I teach
fashion history and this would be SOO cool.
Thanks for the help.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of David S. Mallinak
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 11:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip



Saragrace Knauf wrote:
 I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it
 had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know
there
 are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume,
 but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more
accessible
 through documentary, TV series and movies is
 making the sport of costuming so much more popular.
 http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5

You might add the Highlander TV series. I know the production company made
a
DVD for schools that chronicled all of the Highlander flashbacks as an
introduction different periods and societies.

Your humble and obedient servant,
David S Mallinak

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Re: [h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing

2008-03-27 Thread monica spence
Try Blackadder font -- always looks old or Rennaissance-ish.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing


I need some help (or you can translate this to I'm feeling too lazy
to do the research myself right now).

I'm looking for two things:
• Fonts: anybody know any good renaissance-y fonts? I'm looking for
something that is both relatively period-accurate for Tudor and
Elizabethan printed books, broadsheets and handbills, and something
that the less-than-educated viewer will think Oooh, old! when they
see it. Free preferred, but feel free to recommend commercial fonts.
OpenType preferred, but feel free to recommend TrueType or PostScript.
• Tudor  Elizabethan printed things: Books, broadsheets, handbills
and signs. Yes, of course, facsimiles preferred, and online sources
preferred. At work I've got access to a number of academic online
collections, so feel free to recommend restricted services; I might be
able to get to them.

Andy Trembley
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RE: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread monica spence
From the back it reminds me of a Robe a la Polinaise C. 1700s. Or a Roman
shade. :-)

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 2:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?



In a message dated 3/19/2008 10:36:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S

Has  anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The
flouncy
 mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably
permanently sewn in.


You will come across a similar idea in the 1860's and the idea remains the
same--a method of raising the skirts high enough to stay out of mud,
puddles,
etc.  Occassionally you see it in fashion plates as a trendy thing to do
over
an elaborate underskirt, but more often than not it was an issue of
practicality.  To do it, one had the option of purchasing one of the patent
Dress
Elevators in the magazines, sewing tapes inside your skirt, or simply
using
pins.

~Joseph



**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0
00301)
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RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question

2008-03-11 Thread monica spence
H. I'm usually pretty good at this (Catholic school fom grade 1 through
grad school) I would have thought the person in the front in red was
probably Mary Magdelene because the cup is part of the iconography and it
looks like a woman. But I am stumped.

St. Joseph is the guy in yellow at the left.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 7:58 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] saint/iconography question


We've been looking at this painting
http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg
Billed as Adoration of the Magi by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422

Are those really the Magi?  (The folks with the halo's).  To my *very*
untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than Magi.  The
individual in the peach/orange with the blue head-wrap reminds me more
of The Magdalene rather than one of the Magi.

I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints iconography -- and
I know that there are folks on this list that are more knowledgeable
than I.  Half my brain tells me that I should just take the painting
title at face value and go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't
like any other representations of Magi that I've seen.

Thanks!
Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books

2008-02-22 Thread monica spence
One thoing I do with my SCA apprentices is show the drawings/ engravings in
the bad costume references next to the original artwork. It really opens
their eyes.

Monica


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Andrew Trembley
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 11:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books


Robin Netherton wrote:
 Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
 And please, please, if you
 have Peacock's history of costume (that one's a modern abomination),
 take it out and burn it. It has nothing but impossible line drawings and
 no facts to back anything up. If only I could make all copies disappear
 from library shelves

 Even better than burning it, send it to the Robin Netherton Home for
 Wayward Bad Costume Books. I have a shelf full of unreliable sources
 that I consult frequently when I'm trying to track down the origins of
 a misconception and to sort out the sequence of a chain of erroneous
 interpretations.

I love discredited sources. On numerous occasions I've threatened to do
historical masquerade entries based on known discredited sources
(including the idea of doing ancient Egyptian based on Rosicrucian
Society dogma for CC23 in Ogden, Utah at the Peery Egyptian Theater).

andy

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RE: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references

2008-02-21 Thread monica spence
Hi Margaret--
Could you please reference the Bronzino paintings you wrote about? I am VERY
interested ...
Thanks-
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of margaret
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 12:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references



This is not Tudor or Elizabethan, but Bronzino did at leasttwo of the same
person in the same dress with different sleeves.
Margaret



 Help!!

 My consort and I are preparing a class about visual sources and why they
 should not be taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research, and as
 usual once I get past about 1300 I hit a snag. :-) If you want to
 discourse on the changes in sleeve geometry from 1200 to 1300 in England
 and France, I'm your girl. Anything after that, though, and I am at a
 total loss. Our stated time frame is up to 1600, and we have sources up to
 and including 1300. However, we would also like to use examples from post
 1300 as well, and that's where I come to all you later-period specialists.

 I have been told that there are several portraits out there, by the same
 artist, of different sitters, but using the same or almost the same dress.
 Is this in fact the case, and if so, where can I find images of these
 portraits?

 My consort tells me that there are also portraits of various male members
 of a family all portrayed in the same suit of armor--again, if anyone has
 any references I can chase down that would be incredibly helpful.

 And yes, I plan on using the portrait of Elizabeth in the eyes-and-ears
 gown as an example of symbolism.

 Many many many thanks,

 pixel/Jen
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RE: [h-cost] Costume shop

2008-02-11 Thread monica spence
Been there, done that!
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 11:42 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop



In a message dated 2/11/2008 11:09:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I think  most costume shops were designed by someone who had never been IN
one, much  less worked in one!



And theatres are designed by people who have never done anything but sit in
the audience. Back stage! We need some back stage space please Not just
in
 the wings. It would be nice to not have to go out in the parking lot to
cross  from stage left to stage right during a performance.



**Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003
00025
48)
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RE: [h-cost] Costume shop

2008-02-11 Thread monica spence
I think most costume shops were designed by someone who had never been IN
one, much less worked in one!
Monica
Former Grad Assistant at the SUNY-Binghamton Costume shop (a LONG time aga)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume shop


At 15:14 11/02/2008, you wrote:
?I? should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts?
center.

I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume?
shop--and didn't put it in the basement!

With no windows and no place to store anything.? Oh, and no
ventillation.
?
Ann Wass



Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe


And stairs of course, not elevators!

Suzi

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RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-10 Thread monica spence
Linen shrinks an enormous amount. Especially if it is not pre-washed. Most
linen used in Mfg. is not prewashed/preshrunk because the finish will come
off and it will look terrible. The linen garment is also usually tailored
differently than denim. The fibers of linen react much dirrerent than cotton
to water. Lots of denim today is preshrunk and distressed, so a lot of the
shrink factor is gone by the time it is cut and sewn.

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


 Mfgs no
 longer have the luxury of putting the Dry clean only tag on a garment
 because it is convenient or safe.

Then why do they insist on putting dry clean only on unlined, 100% linen
pants? Lined I'd understand, because if they shrink then the lining will be
too big, but unlined??

100% cotton jeans shrink and they don't put a dry clean tag on them, why
would they do it for linen if it's because of the shrinkage? Becase people
don't know how to iron them after they've been washed? It's certainly not
because of the dye (the two pairs of pants in question were white and
natural-coloured)... then why?

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RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-09 Thread monica spence
Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked in
the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and technical
desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality Assurance
program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer lets
manufacturers  put a dry clean only  tag on a garment. A manufacturer must
allow the customer  the ability to wash with specific directions (cold
water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged by
the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then the
MFG. can say on their tag Cold water only or Dry clean only etc. Mfgs no
longer have the luxury of putting the Dry clean only tag on a garment
because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when
deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting Use dry
bleach when necessary tag on their girl's swimwear.

If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something happens,
you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the
Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not
necessarily the store's problem.

Monica







-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


monica spence wrote:
 I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
 says dry clean, then dryclean.

Most of the time the tag says dry clean because the manufacturer
doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is safe. They are
required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is too
much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular fabric
or a  line of clothing. So it says dry clean and they are covered.

It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you
are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or
cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low
iron setting.


Dawn

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RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-09 Thread monica spence
Hi!
Try the Federal Trade Commission website.

I don't know if small busnesses are required to test, but if your garments
are sold in certain stores, you will be. The big stores and catalogues
(Wal-mart, Target, Sears, JC Penney, Disney, etc.) that I worked with
required testing and provided HUGE manuals. They also  told us to use
specific testing labs that knew  the store requirements. The outcomes of the
tests were sent to the stores and the manufacturer.

Testing is really expensive. It is one of the reason that 95% of US
manufacturinng has gone off-shore to places where a worker makes 30 cents an
hour. But that is another discussion. :-(

Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


Do you have any idea where one finds these instructions?  I have a
small online clothing business and put dry clean only on a lot of my
tags.  I'd like further information on the legalities.

Sylrog

On Feb 9, 2008, at 9:05 AM, monica spence wrote:

 Actually, with all due respect, that is not necessarily true. I worked
 in
 the garment industry for 25 years as a designer, patternmaker and
 technical
 desuigner. Most stores require testing as part of their Quality
 Assurance
 program.Part of that is Wash testing. The federal govermnent no longer
 lets
 manufacturers  put a dry clean only  tag on a garment. A
 manufacturer must
 allow the customer the ability to wash with specific directions (cold
 water, bleach, etc.. If a fabric/garment has been PROVEN to be damaged
 by
 the use of a specific thing (hot water, detergent, bleach, etc) then
 the
 MFG. can say on their tag Cold water only or Dry clean only etc.
 Mfgs no
 longer have the luxury of putting the Dry clean only tag on a garment
 because it is convenient or safe. I found this out the hard way when
 deakling with Nordstroms a few years ago. They INSISTED on putting
 Use dry
 bleach when necessary tag on their girl's swimwear.

 If it says Dry Clean only, follow the directions. Then if something
 happens,
 you can return it to the store, who will in turn send it to the
 Manufacturer. If you have improperly cleaned something, it is not
 necessarily the store's problem.

 Monica







 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Behalf Of Dawn
 Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 1:16 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


 monica spence wrote:
 I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the
 tag
 says dry clean, then dryclean.

 Most of the time the tag says dry clean because the manufacturer
 doesn't know how to clean it, and dry cleaning is safe. They are
 required by law to put care tags on the garments, but for many it is
 too
 much cost and effort to research the best method for a particular
 fabric
 or a  line of clothing. So it says dry clean and they are covered.

 It's probably ok to hand wash it in cool water with a mild soap. If you
 are concerned about colorfastness, test swab it with a damp q-tip or
 cotton ball.  Dry it in a rolled up towel, and press it on a very low
 iron setting.


 Dawn

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RE: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question

2008-02-08 Thread monica spence

I'd dry clean it. Rayon sometimes is not colorfast to washing. If the tag
says dry clean, then dryclean.
Monica
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Cozit / Liz
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:34 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT: quick fabric washing question


I'm one of those folks who often washes things by hand that tell you to
dry clean - when they're 100% polyester, linen, and usually rayon and
silk (depends on how daring I feel with that one, as it varies a lot).

I just bought a nice dress that is 75% rayon, 25% polyester.  It says
dry clean only, short cycle but also says light steam, light press.
I'm guessing that I could probably get away with washing this also (hey,
I've got allergy skin - the fewer chemicals up against it the
better)... but wanted to ask this group if anyone's tried washing that
combination with decent results before... as I'm feeling nervous about
the combo.  My *guess* is that the polyester is mostly in the design of
the fabric, not in the general weave... it's jacquard-ish leaf 
patterned slightly shinier than the matte black of the rest of the material.

Anyone out there able to say either probably ok or definitely
don't?  It was under $100, but more than I'd really like to throw out
by totally messing it up before wearing.


Fingers crossed!
-Liz  (hey, I never run into this when doing costuming - I wash the heck
of the material before I sew it - but no time to manage to make
something before I need it in March)

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RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 39

2008-02-01 Thread monica spence

Hi Richard--
What a great idea! Thanks!
Monica (Catriona)


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Richard Harper
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 2:28 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 39


There are probably some really simple solutions that I haven't thought of,
but
do the list persons have any tips about getting long hems level?

The simplest thing I have found to do:

1.  Get a chalk skirt marker (a tall plastic rod with a chalk marker
attached, usually with a bulb for blowing a chalk mark).  I believe the most
popular maker these days is Dritz and they are not expensive.

2.  Stand on a settee or box so that the skirt hangs free all the way
around; make sure you are wearing any proper undergarments and proper shoes.

3.  Have a friend corroborate with you where you'd like the hem to be, then
while you stand up straight (at a natural stance, of course) have your
friend go all the way around you and mark the hem with the chalk marker.

This will work even if your hems are beyond floor level.  If you are dealing
with a train, then mark the skirt the correct length for walking at the
front and sides.  Figure out what length you'd like the train to be (and the
angle you'd like it to achieve), and mark it at your pleasure while it is
off your body.

This method works very well no matter what the circumference; I have
marked huge ball gown hems this way -- you have to move the fabric about to
make sure you get enough marks, but they always come out beautifully.

Richard in MI
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RE: [h-cost] Re: Tudors and sweating sickness

2008-01-14 Thread monica spence
Eleonora of Toledo and her sons died of malaria in 1560. There were regular
outbreaks in the Mamerra (Tuscany). Cosimo I, the Duke of Florence, (her
husband, the boy's father) worked on draining the swampy area for years.

Monica


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 6:32 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudors and sweating sickness


Julie wrote:

Interesting.  My daughter mentioned malaria but I told her it couldn't be
that because it's tropical.  Cholera was mentioned as well.  I was thinking
along the lines of the horrible influenza in the U.S. in 19...teens that
killed so many.  Wasn't it called the Spanish Influenza?

Not just in the US - my father's uncle, a Derbyshire vicar, died of it in
1918 after taking many other victims' funerals, and it was widespread on the
European continent.

I think malaria (ague) and cholera were recognised diseases in the 16th
century, so the sweating sickness must have been something different.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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RE: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts

2007-12-25 Thread monica spence
I got a comfy. but beautiful, chair for my desk where I write, a digital
camera, a table for the living room, pearl earrings, a HUGE Barns and Noble
gift cert., lingerie, books on history (Alexander the great,  and Kings--
for my costume history class.) I bought my husband a bunch of wonderful
picture books (Battles, Weapons and Warriors) that will probably find their
way to my scanner really soon-- great costume pics. And videos.

I bought myself the fresco books and Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII
and some others...

Now to find a place for everything...
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 4:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts


On Tuesday 25 December 2007, Lavolta Press wrote:
 Aren't we having annual discussion?

 I got _Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII_, _Ancient Textiles:
 Production, Craft, and Society_, _Purses in Pieces_, a Fortuny-like
 olive-colored crushed silk sleeveless dress, and two Christmas ornaments
 of rather naughty-looking fairies in dressed in pastel Edwardian lingerie.

 Also some science fiction and fantasy books; a whole bunch of spices,
 seeds, nuts, and tea from an Indian grocery store and elsewhere; a
 bottle of elderberry wine; a bottle of dandelion wine; a multi-region
 DVD player; and an IPOD (I plan to get rid of the IPOD ASAP).

I bought myself a number of costuming books this year, and in fact got a
number of books for Christmas, but none of the Christmas books were
costume-related.  They included

The Far Traveller;
Colors:  A History of the Palette;
Ancient Egyptian Dances;
God's Secret Agents : Queen Elizabeth's Forbidden Priests and the Hatching
of
the Gunpowder Plot;  Letters from Nuremberg: My Father's Narrative of a
Quest
for Justice

Also received:  the soundtrack for Pirates of the Caribbean:  At World's
End
(the third movie);  a small fire extinguisher for the kitchen;  Munchkin
Impossible (a card game); The Good, the Bad, and the Munchkin (ditto);
miscellaneous small items, and a $50 Barnes  Noble gift card to share with
my husband.


--
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt.-- Mark Twain
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RE: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England

2007-12-14 Thread monica spence
Hi Bjarne--
Sorry for the dalay in posting. I am trying to decorate for Chrisstmas.

I have this book. I would recomend it for the pictures alone-- lots of
gorgeous color plates, with details. If you are able to get it for a good
price, I would buy it. I bought it for full price, but it was worth it!
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] dress in Stuart England


Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything
about this book?

Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul
Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover)
by Aileen Ribeiro
Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book?

Bjarne
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