Re: [lace] Finger looping

[Cynce Williams]

I don’t know that much about finger-loop braiding. There was a reference in (I
think) Piecework maybe around 2000. Kumihimo books also make reference. I have
a feeling it may be Chinese in origin—done by the monks to make “red tape” to
tie up scrolls and documents.

Cynthia


On Apr 6, 2018, at 2:10 AM, Gilian Dye  wrote:

> I've been puzzled for a while by the prevalence of  finger looping - on the
> face of it is an unlikely technique to have developed. Why decide to put
> loops on your fingers instead of manipulating individual threads? Could
> these braids be a form of plaiting?

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RE: [lace] Finger looping

[J-D Hammett]

Hi fellow Arachnids,



These braids on the indulgences (which were frequently sold by -sometimes
spurious- Pardoners to raise funds for the church), could be finger woven or
card woven. Finger-weaving is a form of plaiting with loops on the fingers
with which one can get different and pretty patterns. With the card- and inkle
loom weaving the warp forms the visible pattern hence the pattern (the
boat-shaped visible bits of the thread at the surface) lays along the length
of the braid as can be seen in the photographs. With a loom woven braid the
pattern lie across the braid.



Happy lace making,



Joepie in East Sussex, UK where spring at last seems to have arrived.








From: owner-l...@arachne.com  on behalf of Gilian Dye

Sent: Friday, April 6, 2018 7:33:53 PM
To: Bev Walker
Cc: Kim Davis; DevonThein; Arachne reply; Jean Leader
Subject: Re: [lace] Finger looping

H Bev,
Slentre braid sounds exactly like the 5 loop braid which was the first
finger-looped braid I learned.
 Did you know that by picking up the loop that is transferred from one hand
to the other in different ways - eg by changing whether you catch the top
or the bottom thread of the loop - you can get different shaped braids?

I'm not sure about Slentre Braid being a precursor to bobbin lace but I
would suggest it is the same family.
Agreed a fascinating topin
Gil

On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 6:26 PM, Bev Walker  wrote:

> Hello Gillian and everyone
>
> I am reminded of "Slentre Braid" which is made of 5 doubled threads,
> anchored at one end, looped at the other. Briefly, two fingers of one hand,
> three of the other hook into the loops where a weaving motion  takes place,
> one loop through another. The result is a quickly-made two-faced braid, one
> side looks woven, the other knitted. This isn't like the braid in Devon's
> photo.
> I don't know the term 'finger looping' - perhaps Slentre Braid is an
> example. Or it could be finger weaving.
>
> Could be a precursor to bobbin lace. I don't know.
> The topic is absolutely fascinating!
>
> On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 12:10 AM, Gilian Dye  wrote:
>
>>
>> I've been puzzled for a while by the prevalence of  finger looping - on
>> the
>> face of it is an unlikely technique to have developed. Why decide to put
>> loops on your fingers instead of manipulating individual threads? Could
>> these braids be a form of plaiting?
>>
>
>
> --
> Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
> Canada
>

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[lace] Re: Weaving/Fingerloop Braids/Braids/Lace (History References for Scholars)

[Kim Davis]

This information from Jeri was very helpful.  I can add this site to the
list.
https://loopbraider.com/
She has many, many videos on making various braids.  Her videos are
certainly not professionally produced, but it will provide you with
information that is very difficult to find in person, at least here in the
states.

I, too, am always looking for relatives of early bobbin lace.  I have been
studying loop braiding with a very knowledgeable teacher for 2.5 years, and
I have co-ordinated a meetup for working on finger loop techniques once a
month in Berkeley, Ca.  Should any of you who are interested find your way
to the Bay Area sometime, feel free to contact me offlist.

Kim

>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [lace] Re: Finger looping

[Jazmin]

It doesn't look like fingerloop to me either.

Tablet weaving absolutely goes back this far (and further.. go
anglo-saxons!), but this speaks more to rigid heddle than 4 hole tablet to
me. (2 shafts rather than 4, effectively).

Lovely piece!

Heather in snowy SW Ontario, with a tablet weaving piece on my loom as we
speak. XD

On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 9:26 AM, Jane Partridge  wrote:

> Jean or Bev Walker might be better than me at identification, but could
> these braids be formed by tablet weaving? I believe the technique does date
> back that far, and they certainly look similar to the braids I made as
> samples at college some years ago? Being a warp/weft technique, it would
> also explain the loose threads along the sides of some of the braid,
> possibly where the weft thread has worn away 'on the turn' over the years.
>
> Jane Partridge
>

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[lace] INVITATION to April 21st New England Lace Group meeting

[Jeri Ames]

This is a special invitation to New England lace lovers who are not members of
the New England Lace Group to be my guest at the Saturday, April 21st
meeting, 11 AM to 2 PM, in the Joshua Hyde Public Library, Sturbridge
Massachusetts.    
 
www.nelg.us 
 
For an early lunch, there are numerous eating options nearby.  Please RSVP me
(Jeri), so I can make guest arrangements with the appropriate officers of this
group and provide answers to any questions you may have.

--
Program announcement:  LEARNING FROM A COLLECTION.   Presented by NELG
member Jeri Ames.  For 7 decades, Jeri Ames has been hoarding laces,
equipment used for creating laces, and lace books.  She will bring a
selection of these and share their stories, hoping you will be inspired to
preserve similar items to enlighten future generations of lace aficionados.
--
More details for Arachne members:
 
Among the items to be shown are rare figural laces.  These are filet, bobbin
or needle laces that depict angels, putti, people, birds and animals, some of
which were copied from other forms of fine art.   There will also be unusual
bobbin lace pillows (antique Ipswich style, magnificent Cone-shaped roller,
miniatures), an antique European lace lamp, a thread spindle with squirrel
cage rollers (Raffel, pg. 33), collectible books,
 
Of these treasures, only two have been publicly shown in the past 25 years.  
1) A needle lace interpretation of Aurora by Guido Reni (1575-1642) at a
Bethesda Maryland IOLI class, taught by Liz Ligati of Australia.   2) A
handkerchief that was loaned to experts at a famous museum as an example of a
very convincing copy of an 18th C. bobbin lace, featuring baskets of flowers
and tree branches alternating with a huntsman and reindeer (Reigate, pg. 162).
 
 
Lace Conservation and Restoration comments will be an important part of the
presentation.
 
Having never seen publicity for NELG programs on Arachne, I thought you all
should know about this.  Please allow enough time to fully enjoy the day.
 Suggest you bring a notebook to jot down information you wish to remember.
 
 
This is an opportunity to wear lace !
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Needlelace at the RSN

[Branwyn ni Druaidh]

Even though it's for beginners, I would jump at the chance to go there.

If only I had money for airfare and accommodations.  Oh yeah, and a
passport.  LOL

Jennifer


All this discussion of needlelace  so I had to smile when the latest
> post from the Royal School of Needlework popped up on my facebook page.
>
> https://www.royal-needlework.org.uk/courses/details/15587
>
> I suspect all you ladies are far more advanced than this. :-) .
>
> Jane
> Enjoying a sunny day in the South of England after weeks of rain.
>


-- 
Per pale argent and purpure, two phoenixes counterchanged sable and argent
each rising from flames proper.

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Re: [lace] Finger looping

[Gilian Dye]

H Bev,
Slentre braid sounds exactly like the 5 loop braid which was the first
finger-looped braid I learned.
 Did you know that by picking up the loop that is transferred from one hand
to the other in different ways - eg by changing whether you catch the top
or the bottom thread of the loop - you can get different shaped braids?

I'm not sure about Slentre Braid being a precursor to bobbin lace but I
would suggest it is the same family.
Agreed a fascinating topin
Gil

On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 6:26 PM, Bev Walker  wrote:

> Hello Gillian and everyone
>
> I am reminded of "Slentre Braid" which is made of 5 doubled threads,
> anchored at one end, looped at the other. Briefly, two fingers of one hand,
> three of the other hook into the loops where a weaving motion  takes place,
> one loop through another. The result is a quickly-made two-faced braid, one
> side looks woven, the other knitted. This isn't like the braid in Devon's
> photo.
> I don't know the term 'finger looping' - perhaps Slentre Braid is an
> example. Or it could be finger weaving.
>
> Could be a precursor to bobbin lace. I don't know.
> The topic is absolutely fascinating!
>
> On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 12:10 AM, Gilian Dye  wrote:
>
>>
>> I've been puzzled for a while by the prevalence of  finger looping - on
>> the
>> face of it is an unlikely technique to have developed. Why decide to put
>> loops on your fingers instead of manipulating individual threads? Could
>> these braids be a form of plaiting?
>>
>
>
> --
> Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
> Canada
>

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[lace] Weaving/Fingerloop Braids/Braids/Lace (History References for Scholars)

[Jeri Ames]

Devon is doing research on lace-related textiles from 1970s to today.
 However, there has been  correspondence this week that makes me realize
some of our weaving scholars might like the following information which took a
long time to research in 2016 for Kim Davis at The Lace Museum in Sunnyvale
California.  It was to be used at a conference, and focused on the Silkwomen
of the 1400s - women who were in business in London.  
 
Weaving, Fingerlooping and Braiding are categories in my library that fall
under the 1,000 books about Related Subjects (to Lace and Embroidery).  Being
outrageously biased, I think this is a - dream - library.


Some interesting references for those interested in early textile history:
 
1.  Weavers:  Before there was lace, clothing was embellished with very
fancy braids of silk and gold and cords were used to tie sections of clothing
together, also woven with gold.  Illustrated in the 2008 art book -
Merchants, Princes and Painters - Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern
Paintings 1300-1550, by Lisa Monnas (Yale Press).  Vibeke Ervo recommended
this to me shortly before her unexpected death.  There is a chapter on cloth
of gold, which struck my fancy.  (Queen Mary, grandmother of Queen Elizabeth
II, wore a magnificent cloth of gold gown and cream-colored Youghal needle
lace court train lined with the gold and attached at her shoulders, to the
1911 Durbar at Delhi.  Photos are in Youghal Lace - the Craft and the Cream,
by Earnshaw )   I was interested in early development of Gold Thread, and
bought the Monnas book for information on 2 pages in Appendix 2, pp. 299-300
!
 
2.  Figures in Silk, 2009, by Vanora Bennett, is a comfortable to read work
of fiction, based on history.  Bibliography is a non-fiction must have for
those interested in the subject.
 
3.  Tak V Bowes Departed: A 15th Century Braiding Manual Examined - search
for it.  There is a 2006 paperback book.
 
4.  http://fingerloop.org/ is an interesting free site.  I copied it years
ago, and put in a binder in my library.
 
5.  SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism) members will find a vast amount of
research materials available about pre-17th century Europe.  www.sca.org 
 
6.  Perhaps one of our Arachne members knows the present (contemporary)
braiding expert in England, Jacqui Carey (of her 10 books, I have 7).  She
may have published some 1400s research, though I know her mostly for the
Elizabethan period and Kumihimo.  
https://www.careycompany.com/
 
7.  The Mercery of London: Trade, Goods and People, 1130-1578 by Anne F.
Sutton (2005).
 
8.  Heavy reading from Sutton, but some may find the research of value:
http://www.richardiii.net/downloads/Ricardian/2006_vol16_two_dozen_silkwomen_
sutton.pdf
 
9.  This is an English language Italian Lace History site, which leads to
other sites:
http://world4.eu/italian-lace/#Guipure_lace_Parchment_lace 
 
Have fun being a scholar !
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 

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Re: [lace] Finger looping

[Bev Walker]

Hello Gillian and everyone

I am reminded of "Slentre Braid" which is made of 5 doubled threads,
anchored at one end, looped at the other. Briefly, two fingers of one hand,
three of the other hook into the loops where a weaving motion  takes place,
one loop through another. The result is a quickly-made two-faced braid, one
side looks woven, the other knitted. This isn't like the braid in Devon's
photo.
I don't know the term 'finger looping' - perhaps Slentre Braid is an
example. Or it could be finger weaving.

Could be a precursor to bobbin lace. I don't know.
The topic is absolutely fascinating!

On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 12:10 AM, Gilian Dye  wrote:

>
> I've been puzzled for a while by the prevalence of  finger looping - on the
> face of it is an unlikely technique to have developed. Why decide to put
> loops on your fingers instead of manipulating individual threads? Could
> these braids be a form of plaiting?
>


-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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Re: [lace] Needlelace at the RSN

[catherinebar...@btinternet.com]

Well you don't use/need a 'ring frame' to work a few Needlelace samples!  
Thanks Jane, enjoy the sunshine, a rare treat these last few months!

Catherine Barley

Sent from my iPad 

Catherine Barley Needlelace
www.catherinebarley.com

> On 6 Apr 2018, at 15:47, Jane  wrote:
> 
> All this discussion of needlelace  so I had to smile when the latest post 
> from the Royal School of Needlework popped up on my facebook page.
> 
> https://www.royal-needlework.org.uk/courses/details/15587
> 
> I suspect all you ladies are far more advanced than this. :-) .
> 
> Jane
> 
> 
> 

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[lace] Needlelace at the RSN

[Jane]

All this discussion of needlelace  so I had to smile when the latest 
post from the Royal School of Needlework popped up on my facebook page.


https://www.royal-needlework.org.uk/courses/details/15587

I suspect all you ladies are far more advanced than this. :-) .

Jane
Enjoying a sunny day in the South of England after weeks of rain.

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Fwd: [lace] Colour in Lace.

[Catherine Barley]

Original message
>From : lizl...@bigpond.com
Subject : [lace] Colour in Lace.

Texture or colour? One does seem
to override the other. Yes I agree.

Catherine, I worked your Strawberries – and learned Such a Lot while working
the pieces – flowers wired, leaves with wired veins, and a double layer of
stitching to make the strawberries. It was such fun to do, - and a belated big
Thank You for the pattern – and in fact, the whole book!!  However when I
put that piece in my Proficiency   exam, it was written, by the examiners, as
Stumpwork .

-
>From : catherinebarley@btinternet.
Subject : Re: [lace] Colour in Lace.

Hi Liz

I know I said my previous posting on the subject would be my last but I 
couldn't be ill mannered and ignore your email to me, so as I'm writing it 
anyway, thought I might as well include Arachne too!

Yes Alex did hit the nail on the head and I recall explaining to you some time 
ago when asked,  how to achieve density/tonal values when working monochrome 
laces.  A lot more thought needs to be used in the variation of thread weights 
to achieve this, rather than simply choosing the correct shade/colour of 
thread.  For example my 'Henley Bridge' where I had to differentiate the blue 
sky from the blue/grey water and also the tarmac road, is an example.  I 
wondered how I could do this without the use of colour and felt it required 
more than just a variation of the filling stitches.   Different gauges of white 
thread was the answer and of the old Point de Gaze samples is where this idea 
came from.

I was also invited by the Lace Guild here in the UK (along with others) to 
design and work a piece of needlelace using a Winifred Millar bobbin lace 
pricking as our source of inspiration.  I thought I'd design/work a piece of 
Point de Gaze to go on the front of the 'spare' ivory satin wedding shoe from 
my book which I had intended to work it in a gold coloured thread, thinking it 
would compliment the ivory satin.  Like most lacemakers no doubt, I have 
drawers full of threads that wlll probably never see the light of day, but did 
I have several gauges of the same coloured/shade of gold thread to work my 
Point de Gaze? - No I didn't, so it was back to white for me, of which I had 
every gauge I might possibly need.  Of course the white wouldn't show up 
against the ivory satin, so I mounted my white Point de Gaze onto a gold 
coloured silk background and framed it instead of using the ivory coloured 
satin shoe!  If you're sufficiently interested you can see this on my website 
und!
 er 'Lace Guild Challenge', also 'Henley Bridge' and right at the bottom of the 
list you can see an example of Argentan Ground under 'Chopin's Nocturne'

I do not classify the 3-D strawberries as Stumpwork/Raised Embroidery as they 
are not worked onto a fabric background!  They are a contemporary use of 
traditional needlelace stitches incorporated into a 3-Dimensional arrangement 
of strawberries.  Stumpwork is another term for 'Raised Embroider' and to 
embroider something one needs a background fabric on which to 
embroider/embellish this fabric!  One does set one's self up as an 'Aunt Sally' 
when writing a book/catalogue and has to be very sure of one's facts before 
doing so, as there is always someone out there who know better!  Once something 
goes down in print it is frequently quoted by future generations and we have 
learned through experience over the years, that it is not always correct, as 
further evidence comes to light over the years to substatiate this.  The 
inspiration for these strawberries came for a Grinling Gibbons wood carving 
depicting a variety of flora and fauna, also fruit, birds, musical instruments 
etc an!
 d I thought that if someone could create something so beautiful/realistic out 
of a solid piece of wood, surely I could do something similar with my knowledge 
of needlelace!

I recall being allowed into the room when the assessor came to mark our work at 
Windsor & Maidenhead College for the C & G two year Creative Textile Course.  I 
had been asked to take some Rhododendron flowers from my garden to  display 
along with the student's work, and took them in before the assessor started on 
her rounds, and Nenia was showing her a copy of her very first book published 
by Batsford entitled 'Needlepoint Lace' published 1980.  As I was leaving the 
room I overheard the examiner ask Nenia "Is this all Needlepoint Lace"?  My 
heart sank, as we all had to make a piece of needlelace as one of our 
assessments and clearly our examiner didn't even know what it was!

This Creative textiles course was the beginning of the revival of this 
beautiful but sadly neglected form of lace and Nenia Lovesey was the driving 
force behind it, as was Barbara Hirst the driving force  behind the revival of 
Stumpwork/Raised Embroidery here in the UK.  Coincidentally, both Nenia and 
Barbara were students on the same C & G Embroidery Course at Windsor and 
Maidenhead 

Re: [lace] Re: Finger looping

[Bev Walker]

That is a better idea to me than a looped technique. Well spotted Jane


On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 6:37 AM Jane Partridge  wrote:

> Jean or Bev Walker might be better than me at identification, but could
> these braids be formed by tablet weaving? I believe the technique does date
> back that far, and they certainly look similar to the braids I made as
> samples at college some years ago? Being a warp/weft technique, it would
> also explain the loose threads along the sides of some of the braid,
> possibly where the weft thread has worn away 'on the turn' over the years.
>
>
> --
Sent from my iPod

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[lace] Re: Finger looping

[Jane Partridge]

Jean or Bev Walker might be better than me at identification, but could these 
braids be formed by tablet weaving? I believe the technique does date back that 
far, and they certainly look similar to the braids I made as samples at college 
some years ago? Being a warp/weft technique, it would also explain the loose 
threads along the sides of some of the braid, possibly where the weft thread 
has worn away 'on the turn' over the years.

Jane Partridge

From: owner-l...@arachne.com  on behalf of Gilian Dye 


Could
these braids be a form of plaiting? (cf Devon's giant plaits introduced a
few years back). We each need another lifetime to experiment with such
things!
Gil

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[lace] Re: lace books from Lowell Textile Museum

[Karen Thompson]

 Jeri wrote: And then, the American Textile History Museum (mostly about 
weaving) in Lowell Massachusetts closed a couple years ago...  I cannot find 
where the
conservation/restoration staff relocated, or where the huge library (including
lace books) was sent...

>From a very reliable source I have learned that most of the lace books went to 
>Cornell University Library.  Most of the sample books went to Henry Ford 
>Museum.  

-Karen
Currently enjoying a wonderful vacation in The United Emirates. 

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Re: [lace] Finger looping

[Gilian Dye]

I have had fun playing with simple finger looping in the past, but have not
dabbled in the more complex 'recipes' so I am in no position to say for
sure whether or not those braids are finger looping and the patterns do not
appear in either of the books I have. Jean has done far more finger looping
than I have, but she is away from home at the moment so is not in a
position to look at her samples.

I've been puzzled for a while by the prevalence of  finger looping - on the
face of it is an unlikely technique to have developed. Why decide to put
loops on your fingers instead of manipulating individual threads? Could
these braids be a form of plaiting? (cf Devon's giant plaits introduced a
few years back). We each need another lifetime to experiment with such
things!
Gil


On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 4:41 AM, Kim Davis  wrote:

> Gil and Jean, please correct me if you know differently, but I do not
> believe this is loop braiding.  I do not recognize the interlacing or color
> configurations as possible with orthodox braids from this technique.
>
> Kim
>
>
>
>>
>

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