[lace] Arachne Lace Exchanges

[Jeriames]

Thanks to Susan Hottle for her kind words about the lace  exchanges.  I 
have been in touch with Lin.  She is traveling, so  her reply was brief.  
 
>From my perspective, Lin has been generous with her time and talent.   I 
think she stepped in to keep the exchanges going when someone was  ill.  The 
fabulous lace angels she has gifted me are  one-of-a-kind originals.  These 
were thank you surprises.   I have noticed that Lin signs up for the lace 
exchanges with multiple  participants, so there must be quite a few Arachne 
members around  the world who have one of her works of lace art.
 
There are two, or more, sides to every disagreement.  We  need to make 
peace, and keep all the people who work on and document these  Arachne 
exchanges 
happy.  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Reposting Jeri's email on Levey

[Jeriames]

Dear Bev and Sue,   
 
In July, I had a lace maker with great computer technical experience as a  
guest here for a week.  It seemed like an ideal time to perhaps set up a  
gmail account.  She is subscribed to Arachne, and knows the history of my  
problems.  She looked at all my AOL files and how I maintain them, and  
suggested I keep everything the way it is.
 
Please do not think I am not constantly thinking about this.  Talking  to 
AOL technicians in Eastern Europe and the Far East does not help, as they  
never report my anger and requests for a correction to higher ups at  AOL.  I 
do not know if gmail higher ups would take corrective action from  their end.
 
I am sending a special version, that is easier to read because it uses bold 
 type and italics to Bev and Sue.  If others would like the more  
professional-looking memo of Santina M. Levey's Books - for Researchers, please 
 
write directly to me and you will receive if I receive your mails.   It will 
definitely be nicer than the versions in the Arachne  Archives.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 9/7/2017 11:57:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
walker.b...@gmail.com writes:

Yes, and that's why the advice about the gmail addy.  
(just sayin' as the expression goes)

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 8:52 AM, Sue Babbs <_suebabbs385@gmail.com_ 
(mailto:suebabbs...@gmail.com) > wrote:

Yes  they do appear in the archive, but if I don't receive the original 
message  from Jeri I don't know one has been sent, so I don't know to go to the 
 archive to look for it!  When  someone replies to Jeri online,  then I 
know to go to the archives.  A frustrating  necessity!





-- 
Bev in Shirley BC,  near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of 
 Canada

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[lace] Santina M. Levey's Books - for Researchers (Long)

[Jeriames]

Dear Lace Makers,
 
If you own any books by Levey, please print this *before it goes to Arachne 
 Archives* and becomes difficult to read and the format changes, and then 
place  it in your Levey book(s) for future use.
 
People holding the highest level of positions at museums around  the world 
will mourn the loss of Santina Levey.  One textile expert  at a well-known 
American museum has written to me:
 
"I will never forget her taking part in a session I organized for museums  
in south-eastern England on the identification of lace.  She sat at the end  
of the table, and people brought things from their collections for her to  
identify which she did with ease, grace, and aplomb!  What an amazing  
scholar and such a wonderful woman."
 
My memory:  In 1982, Santina Levey came to New York for a  professional 
reason, and spoke at the October 16th meeting of the (now  defunct) Lace Guild 
of New York on the topic: Rise and Fall of the Lace  Industry, 1760-1914. 
This was just before her famous 1983 LACE  book was published.  This Guild was 
held together for a while by  members who worked with laces at the 
Metropolitan Museum, Museum of the  City of New York, Cooper-Hewitt branch of 
The 
Smithsonian, Brooklyn Museum, and  various smaller museums that had ethnic 
collections of costumes.   It disbanded when there were no volunteers willing 
to serve as  officers.  
 
What is shared below is the list of books authored in whole or in  part by 
Santina Levey that are on the shelves of my private library,  because some 
of you may not know of them.  I have called some books to the  attention of 
visiting lace scholars who had no idea of the scope  of her research about 
other historic textiles.  Some of you may  want to learn more after reading 
this list, and searches on the internet will  yield useful information.  To 
read these books: Try  InterLibrary Loan at your local or university library.
 
1. Discovering Embroidery of the 19th Century (64-page paperback)  
0-85263-398-X, 1971/77/83. Number 99 in Discovering series by  Shire. Divided 
into 
sections - 1. Techniques, 2. Embroidered Objects, 3.  Individual Groups and 
Individuals. 
 
2. Elizabethan Treasures - The Hardwick Hall Textiles (112-page  hardback) 
0-8109-6353-1, 1998. First pub. by National Trust;  distributed in North 
America by Abrams. 5 Chapters plus reference  information about 16th and 17th 
C. textiles.
 
3. Embroideries at Hardwick Hall - a Catalogue (400-page hardback)  
978-1-905400-51-5, 2007. National Trust. Divided into sections -  1. 
Embroidery, 2. 
Needlework, 3. Wrought Linen, 4. Turkey-work.
 
4. Lace: A History - a large Art Book (140-pages of text plus a  depth of 
1" of pages of 500 photographs without page  numbers) 0-901286-15-X, 1983. 
Victoria and  Albert. Considered worldwide the go-to book for lace 
identification,  this book contains 10 chapters devoted to lace origins in the  
1500's 
and history up to 1914.
 
5. LePompe, 1559 - Patterns for Venetian Bobbin Lace. Co-author: Patricia  
C. Payne. (128-page paperback) 0-903585-16-2, 1983. Pub. by Ruth  Bean.  
Historical background  and instructions for making the earliest  known set of 
bobbin lace patterns. This is a reprint of original  1559 book, for today's 
lace makers. 
 
6. Of Household Stuff - The 1601 Inventories of Bess of  Hardwick. 
Co-author: Peter Thornton. (71-page paperback) 0-7078-0329-2,  2001. National 
Trust. 
Contents of each of the Countess of  Shrewsbury's homes exceeded in value 
each home's worth. She lived  from about 1527-1608; her life paralleled that 
of Queen Elizabeth I  (1533-1603).
 
7. Finishing Touch - Lace in Portraits at Frederiksborg.  Co-author:  
Patricia Wardle. (76-page paperback) 87-87237-59-8, 1994. Frederiksborg Museum, 
 
Denmark. 16th to early 19th C. history of Museum-owned portraits of  lace 
worn by kings, nobles, courtiers, landowners, ministers, public  servants and 
their wives and daughters.
 
8. Queen Victoria's Wedding Dress and Lace. By Kay Staniland and Santina M. 
 Levey. (32-page article reprinted from COSTUME in paperback format), 
Journal of  the Costume Society (17:1983). No ISBN. Museum of London. 
 
What a legacy!  Consulting the internet and bibliographies of these  books 
reveals more books, articles, and anthology entries by Santina M.  Levey, or 
written in partnership with other scholars with whom she worked.   If you 
know details about them, please write to us, so we can add  to this listing 
in a timely manner.
 
An obituary from The Times, London, can be found at the following  address. 
 It does not give her the embroidered and laced tribute  she surely earned.
 
http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/thetimes-uk/obituary.aspx?page=lifestory
d=186564968
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Texas floods

[Jeriames]

Dear Arachne members and Liz in Australia,  
 
As an American, I'd like to thank Liz for expressing concern.  I  think we 
are all shocked by the extent of tropical storm "Harvey".Unprecedented 
rains, now above 50 inches in 6 days (more than has ever  been recorded on 
North America), have flooded an area that one news outlet  said was the size 
of Lake Michigan (one of the Great Lakes on our northern  border with 
Canada).  Harvey has moved east of Houston now, and  Louisiana and states to 
the 
east are getting so much rain there is flooding and  massive rescue efforts 
there.
 
The government and relief organizations will take care of immediate  needs, 
but we know that is not enough for broken spirits.  Arachne readers  in 
Texas or Louisiana outside the affected areas and closer to the situation:  I 
invite you to write to me personally about how we can be of help to lace  
makers you know have lost everything.  
 
**I would like one other American Arachne member who does not have AOL  to 
volunteer to receive a copy of what you write.**  
 
This is because we have learned my ISP -  AOL - blocks  e-mails from some 
ISPs.  If storm victims and their friends write to us  as individuals, they 
are not likely to be affected by scams.  We  know lace makers in the region 
who will confirm that you are one of  us.
 
There are so few lace makers in the world, that I think we can help those  
in need at this time.
 
ALSO, on Sunday, the 27th, I wrote to one of our lace leaders  to inquire 
if we could start to mobilize assistance to Texas  lacemakers.  (That was 
before Louisiana became a flood zone.)  I've not received a reply, maybe 
because it takes some time to  organize relief in a location that is 
traumatized.  
At the least, once  those affected can receive mail and phone calls, we can 
begin thinking of  sending gifts of love that will warm their hearts.
 
Women are prone to ask for aid for others, while they deal with the shock  
of complete loss of comforting treasures.
 
I am particularly sensitive to the needs of elder women who have no living  
relatives.  If there is any retired  family-less senior lace maker out 
there who needs temporary  housing and is mobile (not in need of medical 
supervision), please let us know  through our private e-mail addresses.  (I'm 
assuming there will be one  other person to help me with this mail.)  We can 
probably solve some of  your problems.
 
 
It is going to take a long time for people to remove entire  contents from 
homes and say goodbye to family treasures ruined beyond  repair, or lost in 
the storm.  Homes will have to be stripped to the studs  to clean up the 
affects of storm damage, and then be rebuilt.   What lace makers lose will 
include the things they have inherited and  collected over the years.  In fact, 
with so much clean up  and rebuilding necessary, people will probably have 
to live in temporary  housing far from their home neighborhoods for quite 
some time.   Estimates today are that it will take 6 years to rebuild America's 
4th largest  city and the large land area around it.
 
In lace friendship,
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Research Center  


 
In a message dated 8/29/2017 11:51:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lizl...@bigpond.com writes:

I do  hope the Lacemakers in Texas are all safe, and their families too.   
We
are seeing, on the TV news, terrible footage of the storm and floods  there.

Best wishes to all those in the affected areas, and also those  near by, as
there will be a lot of "spin-off" from the  devastation.

Next Year's IOLI convention is down that way, I believe,  so I hope they are
all safe, too.

Regards from Liz. In cold  Melbourne, Oz.

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Re: [lace] Gil Dye new book - Bone Lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Liz,

Re:  Bone Lace - A Beginner's Guide to Working Early Bobbin Lace

My review of this book was on Arachne in July, during the IOLI  convention.
 It was edited slightly for the New England Lace Group's  newsletter and
web site.  You can read and print the review that  was published on August
1st, illustrated with a photo of the cover.  Also,  at the end of the review
is
the address for Jean Leader's publishing company in  Glasgow, Cleveden
Press, if you would prefer to order Gil Dye's book that  way.

Many lace lovers will enjoy the amount of information that is  available to
the public on the home page of the New England Lace Group.   Permission was
given for all my book reviews to be where everyone can  access them in a
better format than is available in Arachne archives:

http://www.nelg.us

Select Book Reviews from the menu on the left.

Surely, every member of Arachne joins me in hoping that your vision will
improve, Liz.  We all can imagine your frustration at this time.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-


In a message dated 8/22/2017 12:42:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lizl...@bigpond.com writes:

Ok,  everyone – I have found Gil’s website, - and Bookmarked
it!!
:)
I did not think, earlier , - to check the Lace IOLI site, - where the  URL
was
listed!!  (Brain is not always “in gear” these  days!!)

Hmm! I must order that new book!  Looks interesting  – like the
others
are!!!

Regards from Liz.in Melbourne,  Oz.

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[lace] Lacemaking in Ripon, Yorkshire, England

[Jeriames]

Subject has been changed so it will be easier to search in the  future.
 
It has been interesting to follow Susan Hottle's lead and search  for the 
book  "Lacemaking in Ripon. A History" by Avril W. M. Edmondson and  Mary Y. 
Moseley - a 100 page paperback, published by Ripon  Local Studies Research 
Centre in June 2010 per Amazon,  which gives a price of $160!  Another site 
says it is 91 pages.   And the Ripon Historical Society at 
http://www.riponhistoricalsociety.org.uk/publications/books/   does not offer 
the lace book.  
Was this book reviewed at the time of  publication?  I did not find anything 
in the Arachne Archives when the  title of the book was searched.  Is 
anyone else in the world trying to  capture our lace history in a facility like 
mine?  
 
A search for the two authors brought up an October 2005 note from Malvary  
about a book by Edna Sutton and Mary Moseley "Birds, Bees and Butterflies",  
which is not in my lace library inventory under their names.  I do have 3  
books by Sutton devoted to Bruges lace.  
 
This is an example of how we are losing track of people who may have had an 
 influence on the revival of lace techniques and researched history in  
out-of-the-way communities during the 21st century.  If the information  given 
above is correct, it is only 7 years since this little book was  published!  
Will knowledge of lace made in Ripon fade away?  Does  anyone outside of 
the U.K. have this book?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 8/4/2017 9:46:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Hello  All!  Now that Polish lace is out of the way & our display is on  
exhibit, it's time to work on Scotland for next month's installation. I just  
finished an adorable little Ripon lace edging that Jean Leader interpreted  
from an old encyclopedia.  It was published in Lace & I found it at  Cornell 
University library last year.  I will post a pic of the lace to  Arachne 
Flickr.  If anyone would like the pattern, I will scan it &  send as I can't 
find the issue/page info at the moment.  I didn't have  80/2 gassed cotton so 
used DMC broder machine 50.  The design is very  sweet & would look great 
as an edging on cotton lawn--light & airy for  summer. Sincerely, Susan 
Hottle USA  

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Re: [lace] Lace in tapestries?

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,  
 
Thanks for reminding of this wonderful resource.  I have been to  the 
Landesmuseum in Zurich Switzerland twice to view needlework, the first time  40 
years ago.  On that visit, I was carrying a letter of introduction to  the 
curator responsible for embroideries - written in the local dialect by a  
Swiss-American embroidery friend.  On that visit I was taken to see  
white-on-white embroideries - very old- and certainly of interest to those  
partial to 
the history of Europe and the very early needlework produced  there.  
Digital photography has advanced to where everyone can view  treasures in the 
great museums, without the expense of travel.  
 
It is very expensive to travel in Switzerland.  I recommend this  museum, 
but - perhaps in the interest of everyone getting the most from  travel - 
send trailing men to other tourist attractions if they do not  share your 
interests(?)   It is horrible to be rushed along by  them.  Nearly every 
European 
city of note has museums devoted to subjects  that they will enjoy.  Then, 
when you meet for dinner, you both will  have something unique to add to 
table conversation(?)
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
 
In a message dated 8/4/2017 9:33:10 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Trish  Nguyen posted photos from Zurich on her  site:
thistle-threads.blogspot.com.  Lace collars are represented  within the 
tapestries, but scroll down & take a look at the edge of the  tablecloth in the 
last pic.  Embroidered or appliqued?  Sincerely,  Susan Hottle USA  

Sent from my iPad

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[lace] American Museum in Bath - Decorative Art and Folk Art

[Jeriames]

Do any of our lace vendors participate in this August sales event in  Bath? 
 If so, please let Arachne members know.
 
https://americanmuseum.org/events/textiles-fair-2017/
 
When you look at the above address, note there will be another sale before  
Christmas.
 
Is Contemporary Lace your interest?  Are you a lace designer?  Do  not miss 
looking at the following film and the way color has been used.  It  is 
about Bargello, but could be about any thread technique that uses  color.
 
https://americanmuseum.org/about-the-museum/exhibitions/joyce-petschek-break
ing-the-pattern/
 
You may wish to read also about the "Quilting Bee".  Different British  
quilt groups meet at the museum every Tuesday.  The fine collection of  
American quilts must offer considerable inspiration to them.  Again, use of  
color. 
 I wonder if this museum would consider lacemaking.  You  know, something 
like Ipswich Lace.
 
I have visited this museum several times, and recommend it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] a lace accident & Borax

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,
 
Duly noted.  Did you rinse until you were willing to drink the rinse  
water?  And, was at least the last rinse in distilled water?  I will  feel 
better, if you did.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Centr.
 
 
In a message dated 7/29/2017 3:16:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

... I  grabbed the Borax.  Yes, the 20 Mule Team stuff promoted by the Old  
Ranger back in the day.  Thirty minute soak with intermittent  agitation.  
Not perfect but much improved so I don't think it will be  necessary to dye 
the lace.  But OMG it was a race to get it re-pinned to  the pattern.  
Cotton shrinks--rapidly.  Note to self, always cover  every pricking with 
plastic 
film--better to have two layers than none...   I'm sure Jeri will scold, 
but Borax is a naturally occurring product that is  anti-fungal etc.  Since I 
didn't have time to remake the lace for our  upcoming exhibit & it is 
unlikely to be featured anytime soon at the V  & A, I took my chances with the 
Borax. ... Susan Hottle  USA   

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[lace] Thank You for Documenting the 2017 IOLI Convention, Philadelphia

[Jeriames]

To all who have shared experiences and many photos of the  2017 I
nternational Organization of Lace convention - a huge thank  you.
 
There is no doubt but what this has been the most documented lace  
convention ever, and that your "contributions" are now in  permanent  places 
where 
people can read them for many decades to come.  You have  established a 
standard to follow in coming years.
 
Just as we are interested in lace history of the first quarter of  the 20th 
century (1900 through1925),  this is exactly what we need to do  every 
year, so that future generations can learn what we have been doing in  the 
first 
quarter of the 21st century.  You have confirmed that ace is not  a dead 
art.  You have contributed to lace history, which is primarily  the history of 
women, and that is a very good thing.
 
In gratitude, 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] IOLI Convention

[Jeriames]

Dear Devon,

You did not receive the Arlene Cohen memo, even on your gmail  account.  I
did not receive it on my aol account.

Further, though a wonderful 7/23/17 account of the IOLI convention from
Susan Hottle to Arachne was received as new mail, I could not find it in the
Arachne archive earlier this morning, or now.  Refreshed the page, but  that
did not result in any change.

Puzzling why some things are archived on Arachne, and others are  not.

Devon, perhaps you could post the 2017 photo of the Arachne meeting on  our
Flickr.  There is a section there containing previous ones, and Sue  Babbs
is always willing to give assistance.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

So many Arachne problems.  Sad.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center


In a message dated 7/24/2017 11:46:52 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
devonth...@gmail.com writes:

I am not  sure whether Arlene mentioned this because I think I did not get
the
email.  (Is yahoo a source, like aol where things get hung up?)
The official photo  of the Arachne meeting is on the International
Organization
of Lace’s  facebook page, as is a video of everyone greeting Tess
Parrish who
was  unable to join us, but sent a gift.
Devon


Sent from Mail for  Windows 10

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Re: [lace] IOLI convention news

[Jeriames]

Right again!  I was just saying to a friend that it would be  Susan Hottle 
who would be the first to share her experiences at the IOLI  Convention.  
Should have put money on the prediction.
 
Where are all of you who have been so helped here on Arachne?  Some  
additional feedback would be lovely.  It is unfair for Susan to be expected  to 
bring us the only "news" report.
 
A few of us who know a lot about lace and some about computer  "diseases" 
have been repeatedly warned about FaceBook's security lapses.   We do not 
subscribe and are unlikely to do so.  In my 80th year, I have no  intention of 
being painted into a corner - to join.  
 
Members expect IOLI's Bulletins to fulfill the responsibility of  bringing 
printed news to us, and I hope the new Editor will receive a  lot of help.  
This is an unpaid volunteer position (and Editors are the  ones who usually 
do the lion's share of work for any guild).  Thank Heaven  a volunteer for 
this critical position has come forward, because the need has  been great and 
this is the permanent way IOLI documents its  history from year-to-year.  
For those who do not attend conventions, the  Bulletin is often the only 
contact they have with IOLI. 
 
My pleas for help in bringing the lace of today to the world always fall on 
 deaf ears (witness the dearth of sharing on Arachne).  Please help the new 
 Editor to keep the IOLI bulletin in print.  This is not a one-person  job, 
and "letting someone else do it all" will not guarantee success.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 7/23/2017 1:35:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

What an  invigorating, whirlwind week!   Devon posted a large number of  
photos to IOLI FaceBook so you can get an idea.  Devon's lace exhibit  
proposal has been accepted by a museum in NJ & we got to see her  presentation. 
 
Funding is needed so if you can help or have ideas, I'm  sure they would be 
welcome.  Susan  Hottle

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[lace] Book Review - Introducing Bone Lace

[Jeriames]

Introducing Bone Lace - A Beginner's Guide to Working Early Bobbin  Lace
By Gilian Dye
Publisher  Cleveden Press, 2017
44 pages, 79 images including samples, patterns, diagrams
ISBN 078-0-9553223-7-2
 
"The fair maids that weave their threads with bones"?  
 
This book of helpful hints is like trying out for a role in a Shakespearean 
 play.  You are nervous.  The director (Dye) recommends being very free  in 
your approach - copying and adapting to suit your  threads/lines and their 
proposed use, without relying on a rigid  pattern/script or believing there 
is only one way of  doing things.  This is what early lacemakers seem to 
have done.  
 
Early substitutions for bobbins were made from bones of small animals and  
game birds - thus the name.
 
Dye efficiently describes equipment and materials/scene and props  - and 
has gone on to clearly show how to wind thread onto bobbins/use  props, and 
proceeds to the business of basic moves/stage directions.
 
Right away, you are introduced to 2-pair plaits and plait projects, which  
launches the beginner into a variety of plaits in a sampler.  It is sort of  
like stage directions.
 
Now that the "rehearsal" is over, one can get to the main  performance.  As 
in all her books, Dye simplifies what another author could  make 
complicated.  All elements that are tricky to understand are clearly  explained 
(metal 
threads, spangles, bits and pieces seen in early portraits that  have been 
deciphered by Dye and rendered in comprehensible  directions).
 
The booklet contains many special tips that Dye has generously  shared with 
readers of Guild Magazines.  To have put them in this booklet  is a good 
idea, because so many who make lace may not be members of a very  large guild. 
 They would not have the benefit of these captured  "pearls of knowledge" 
had they not been published in this format.
 
This 44-page booklet can be easily tucked into your tote bag with  
lacemaking supplies, and hardly add weight.  If you have been collecting  all 
of 
Dye's 16th and 17th century instructional booklets about working  early bobbin 
lace, you will want this one.  The entire body of  her work researching this 
period in lace development is a wonderful  way to introduce a new lacemaker 
to the process, so they can add authentic  lace elements to costumes of the 
period.
 
The photo on the cover is of a gentleman who is a costumed guide  at 
Hardwick Hall in England.  The small edging of bone lace on the rim of  his 
white 
ruff is an important element of his costume.  Learn to make  "bone lace", 
which requires a limited number of bobbin pairs, and you will  discover 
delightful ways to use it in 21st century applications.
 
To protect the various booklets in a crowded bookcase, you may wish to  
consider what this reviewer has done - put them in a clear plastic legal  
folder with tie from an office supply store - to hold them all neatly  
together.  
Should you benefit from a class with Dye, you can add all you  collect from 
that experience as extra documentation.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Carbon dating lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Janice,
 
Laurie wrote the following to Arachne - you can write  directly to her for 
the article.
 
In lace friendship, Jeri
-
 
 
In a message dated 7/7/2017 9:47:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lswaters...@comcast.net writes:

Thanks  to Jeri for the review of the Carbon 14 dating article. 
If you don't  have access to the OIDFA bulletin, write to me and I can send
you a copy of  the article.  Laurie


 
In a message dated 7/9/2017 2:25:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jbl...@sbcglobal.net writes:

Jeri,  Please don't leave us hanging.  For those that do not belong to  
OIDFA,
or have Le Pompe, and are very unlikely to see or read this article,  did 
the
lace age agree with what she thought. Maybe you could put a photo  on 
Flickr of
the lace piece in question.  Thanks,  Janice

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[lace] Re: 2017 IOLI lecture - AUCTION of Pennsylvania German Textiles

[Jeriames]

The July Maine Antique Digest contains an ad for this auction in  Mount 
Crawford, Virginia:
 
_www.jeffreysevans.com_ (http://www.jeffreysevans.com)  
 
Called their Second Annual Textiles and Sewing Auction, it will take  place 
next Saturday, July 15th, at 9:30 a.m. Eastern Time.   I  have stepped 
through 439 lots and there is a bit of everything:  thimbles,  all sorts of 
needlework tools, weaving equipment, antique and ethnic clothing,  antique 
buttons, embroideries and samplers, laces, household linens, quilts and  
coverlets, etc.
 
There are over 50 show towels from the Allentown (Pennsylvania) Art Museum  
Textile Collection, starting on page 4.
 
This is something we discussed on Arachne just 2 days ago.
 
It does not cost money to look at an auction's catalog, and it is a  
wonderful way to learn without paying tuition, buying books, or the expense of  
travel.  We have, through the years, been asked on Arachne to identify so  
many things, especially small tools - most of which we determined were not  
related to lace.  This is a resource where you can expand your  knowledge.  
Recommend you take a look.
 
If you click on a photo, it will enlarge.  It tells you absentee  bidding 
closes 2 hours before auction begins.  Auction caveats (terms of  sales) are 
explained.  It is very rare for me to buy a lace of any  kind without 
holding it in my hands, because touch adds so much to one's sense  of value.
 
Please let us know if this type of information is helpful to  you.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
 
In a message dated 7/6/2017 5:09:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jeria...@aol.com writes:

..about _The Use of Lace in Pennsylvania German Textiles_, I went to  my 
list of over 4,000 lace and embroidery-related books to find the best for  
anyone who wishes to do research.  Title:  This is the Way I Pass My  Time - A 
Book About Pennsylvania German Decorated Hand Towels  Jeri
-
 
In a message dated 7/5/2017 6:49:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
devonth...@gmail.com writes:

Just  for Nice: The Use of Lace in Pennsylvania German Textiles - The 
Pennsylvania  Germans are known for practicality, but did love embellishment... 
What role  did lace, and needlework resembling lace, have in the culture? 
Candace  Perry..will explore the use of lace by the Pennsylvania German in this 
 illustrated presentation.   Devon

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[lace] Carbon Dating Lace, by Dr. Laurie Waters

[Jeriames]

Collectors of antique laces are always searching for a lace that is rare  
and tells a story.  Many are ready to rescue laces that have out-lived  their 
usefulness - for the opportunity of expanded knowledge they offer.   It is 
recommended you keep a constructed lace - such as an accessory  or garment - 
whole, even if there is damage.  That will help  future owners to learn 
some critical information about it.  

When you go to a lace convention or congress, the laces for sale in the  
salesroom have already been identified and evaluated to some extent.  You  
have to trust your own lace identification books, your experience, and that  
the vendors are well-informed.
 
However, there is often a question of age.  There are many very  convincing 
laces that are reproductions -especially those  made in the late  19th and 
early 20th centuries that are copies of earlier laces.  Memos  in our 
archives have been telling us about some of these.  What is a  collector to do?
 
Dr. Laurie Waters of Lace News has just invested $600 U.S. to put  a tiny 
thread from one of her laces that is clearly illustrated in Le Pompe,  Volume 
2, 1560, through the process of carbon-14 dating.  The process  and results 
are in a 6-page article in the just-received OIDFA Bulletin -  Number 2 - 
2017 (April/May/June).  If you are not a member of OIDFA, please  make an 
effort to read this article.
 
Our international lace community needs more collecting novices.   Why?  
Because sometimes you ask questions about things those of us who have  been 
collecting for a long time have never considered.  In the future  there will be 
more opportunities to use scientific processes and advanced  methods to 
expand our knowledge.  Scientists will develop  something that is more accurate 
than carbon-14 dating.   How exciting this is to imagine!
 
This is the kind of information to keep in mind when inquisitive people ask 
 questions about old laces whilst you are demonstrating lace making.  If  
there is a young scientist in your family, this is something to share with  
them.  
 
Science may have never been of interest to you.  The point is  - Laurie's 
article has been written very clearly and not over our  heads.  It deserves 
acknowledgements like this memo, and it deserves  attention.  It is something 
you might like to discuss at a lace guild  meeting, or write about in your 
guild newsletter.  A newsletter is  supposed to be about news.  This is 
news.  
 
Please keep this information in your lace detectives file.  Another  
subject in the file would be about X-raying very old garments for hidden  
treasures inside seams and between linings: a new practice yielding interesting 
 
developments, including bits of metal laces that were not harvested by people 
of  more recent generations recapturing gold embellishments - called 
drizzling  or parfilage - for financial gain.  They didn't imagine  there was 
any 
gold deep inside clothing.  We now know differently, and  this helps people 
doing reconstructions.
 
Very slowly - lace detectives are learning more about lace.  Knowing  about 
the beginnings of bobbin and needle laces, how they were made and used, is  
as basic as A B C.  We are at the X Y Z.  A lot has happened that  was not 
documented.  We are challenged to fill in the blanks.
 
If you wish to share this information with your guilds, please write  to 
Lace at Arachne, where Laurie Waters can experience your interest.  She  does 
not know I am writing about her research, and I know very few articles in  
Lace Bulletins are acknowledged by readers.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 

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[lace] 2017 IOLI lecture - Use of Lace in Pennsylvania German Textiles

[Jeriames]

Knowing that most of you would not have the embroidery and weaving books in 
 which you might do research about _The Use of Lace in Pennsylvania German  
Textiles_, I went to my list of over 4,000 lace and embroidery-related 
books to  find the best for anyone who wishes to do research.  There are 
several 
 books in which just a few pages refer to the Pennsylvania German textiles 
in  which lace appears.  The best in my home library is:
 
Title:  This is the Way I Pass My Time - A Book About Pennsylvania  German 
Decorated Hand Towels
 
Authors:  Ellen J. Gehret in cooperation with Tandy Hersh, Alan G.  Keyser, 
and Frederick S. Weiser
 
Publisher:  The Pennsylvania German Society, 1985, ISBN:  0-911122-48-6, a 
292-page Hardback
 
The Bibliography will lead to other books, but this is the most  
comprehensive in my library for lace and lacy techniques specific to  decorated 
hand 
towels (usually meant for display).  There are many  instructions and photos 
(some in color) throughout the book. The  sections on Finishing (pg. 229) 
and Variants (pg. 249) are  particularly interesting.  There is drawn work (I 
prefer the term withdrawn  work - for clarity), where threads are removed 
from evenweave linen  and remaining threads are stitched over in a grid-like 
pattern or treated like a  lacis (filet) base with darning patterns.  Also 
insertion stitches,  needle laces, examples of handknit laces, and fancy 
knotted fringes and  tassels.
 
Europeans will realize this is like the fancy towels made in their  
countries, and there are many variations that may be tried - using  
combinations of 
traditional national needlework techniques.
 
If you live in the Pennsylvania area, you may be able to find this book in  
local public libraries or at local historical society facilities, or you 
can  order from InterLibrary Loan.  A search by author (Gehret) did not locate 
a  copy in the IOLI Lending Library.  If you search, the book is still  
available for purchase.  
 
Note the female figures in the cover photo.  These may relate to  Goddess 
embroideries.  This is another interesting subject to  explore.  Goddess 
embroideries appear in traditional ritual needlework  of most nations in our 
world.  They have been traced back to BCE, when  women worshiped before them 
and prayed to them for good crops and  fertility.  Many men who weave carpets 
and tapestries with stylized figures  of women in them may have no knowledge 
of this meaning!   Simple stitched images replaced statues and amulets 
after the  Crusaders rode through Europe destroying what was not related to  
Christianity.  The world expert on this subject is Mary B. Kelly.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 7/5/2017 6:49:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
devonth...@gmail.com writes:

Just for  Nice: The Use of Lace in Pennsylvania German Textiles
The Pennsylvania  Germans are known for practicality, but did love
embellishment. Whether it  be painted furniture, the vibrant decorated
manuscripts called fraktur or  samplers and embroidered linens, the rural
Germans who came to Pennsylvania  in the 18th century enjoyed what adding
decoration _just for nice_ What  role did lace, and needlework resembling
lace, have in the culture? Candace  Perry, Curator of Collections at the
Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage  Center will explore the use of lace by the
Pennsylvania German in this  illustrated  presentation.
Devon

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Re: [lace] Classification of Spanish lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Devon,
 
Of course, in the past there was the Spanish Netherlands, which stretched  
over a large area of Europe.  So, lace made in Flanders (at least) was  
probably considered theirs to claim then.  But, forever  after?
 
There is a piece of what you'd swear is Bedfordshire lace in my collection  
that a friend who knows her way around Spain gifted to me.  She is not a  
lace maker.  She watched it being made.  
 
I want to cry, too.  Spanish lace makers copy lace in whatever  style they 
like today, and patterns they are using generally give no credit  to the 
hard-working lace designers in other countries who developed the patterns  they 
are copying and using.  It is a practice discussed on Arachne  throughout 
the past 21 years.
 
On June 5th and 6th, I tried to start a discussion that has had only  my 
two letters:
 
Authentic Handmade Laces for Sale - England
Authentic Handmade Laces for Sale - Hungary 
 
Another letter is sitting here, but will not  be released  if no one else 
is willing to participate in a  discussion.  There are definitely traditional 
authentic handmade  laces for sale throughout eastern Europe.  The idea was 
to steer our  traveling Arachne members and their friends away from laces  
copied in China and offered in traditional lace making European cities to  
unsuspecting tourists.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  
-
 
In a message dated 6/19/2017 12:09:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
devonth...@gmail.com writes:
 
a disquieting conclusion that I seem to be coming to is that Spanish  people
seemed to have made an incredible amount of lace, but that it  is
indistinguishable from laces made in other countries, such as  France,
Flanders and Italy. They appear to have been making lace in whatever  style 
was
in fashion, but only have a few really recognizable specialties. I  want to
cry.   Devon

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[lace] PieceWork, July-August 2017 - An International Selection

[Jeriames]

Do you ever read PieceWork?  
 
If you were to glance at PieceWork at your local news  stand, mall 
bookstore, or library - you would be impressed with the  amount of history and 
variety presented.
 
The May-June 2017 annual LACE issue may still be  available, or it can be 
ordered by mail.  Someone wrote about it on  Arachne, so no need to repeat.  
 
The July-August issue is about traveling the world through  needlework.  
 
1) It has pink knitted Estonian Roosimine (defined as  - to decorate with 
roses) gloves on the cover.  Those lovely  colorful designs are not surface 
embroidery.  Instructions are  provided for an inlay technique knitted at the 
same time as the  body of the gloves.  
2) Charlotte Bronte's letter to sister Emily about making  doll's clothes, 
illustrated with photos of the Sidgwick baby house  (dollhouse) that is 
located in a Leeds England museum.  
3) Pina cloth made from wild pineapple leaves in the Philippines  - on 
which very delicate embroidery is applied.  This will  be the focus of an 
exhibit opening next month at Lacis in San  Francisco.  Pleased to note that my 
library has the only  Pina book, listed in the bibliography.  
4) Canada/U.S. - a vintage moose-design  knitted sweater/jacket for men.
5) Mexican embroidered souvenir jackets from 1st half of 20th  C.  A lace 
maker might use this as inspiration to make  a similar jacket featuring 
colorful needle lace. 
6) Mary Card filet crochet.  We maintain correspondence with the  
Australian crochet expert, Barbara Ballantyne, who provided photos in this  
article.  
Several of Barbara's books have been reviewed on  Arachne.
7) A story about the English author and  relief worker, Mary Edith Durham 
and Albania, with instructions  for exotic knitted slipper socks (originals 
in British Museum).  Her  collections of Albanian and Yugoslavian 
embroideries and costumes are in  England's museums.  
8) Sports mittens from Norway. 
9) An explanation of Shetland knitting belts (needlework  tools). 
 
There is more on-line, free.  If you do not want to give your e-mail  
address - click on the X in the box asking you to subscribe.  We do not  know 
whom they might share it with - and you can still read the contents  at: 
_www.interweave.com/category/article/needlework_ 
(http://www.interweave.com/category/article/needlework)   

My hope is that the general public - possessing higher levels  of education 
than in the past - will be learning from this  magazine published by 
Interweave, a company that also publishes books and  other magazines related to 
threads/yarns and how they are used.
 
This variety sort of reflects my dream for lace and embroidery,  which you 
can find by searching Lace and Embroidery Resource Center.   My 2003 letter 
to Arachne is first on the list.  Update: Now, the  American Textile History 
Museum is no more (killed, per news reports, by  mis-management and a lack 
of interest and support from the community and textile  industry).  The 
other current news is that there are another 1,000 books in  my library.  If 
you 
look at the list of articles that pops up with the  search, you'll find 
some other interesting information.  
 
The Pina exhibit can probably be accessed after it opens.   It will run 
from July 7, 2017 to May 4, 2018.  
_www.lacismuseum.org_ (http://www.lacismuseum.org)  
 
Lots to dream about or discuss at your next small lace group gathering, if  
you are so inclined.  If PieceWork magazine is not available in your  
nation, in a few months some of the contents will appear at the Interweave  
address above.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Windows 10 Test: Wearng Lace, a Memory of Gabrielle Pond

[Jeriames]

Dear Friends,

(The list is quiet, so...here is a problem.  Reply to Liz and me,  please.)

Liz L. (Australia) and I (USA) have conducted  a test.  She is using
Windows 10 and I am on Windows 7 (the  senior center computer guru insisted I
stay
with Windows 7 until  Microsoft corrects issues like this).  The problem of
garbled  messages has been happening all too long, and Liz needs a simple
solution.

Liz sent the message below my signature to me yesterday, full of extra
characters.  It was so charming I cleaned it up, removing all the  extra
characters her software inserted, so a copy could  go into Pond's book.
Personal
memories tucked in old  lace books are a delightful bonus to the next owner.

The cleaned up version of our personal correspondence was sent back to Liz
from my Windows 7.  She cut and pasted that clean version to send  to
Arachne.  And, it came through Arachne this morning with all the  garbage that
her Windows 10 adds.  Are Windows 7 and Windows 10  incompatible?

Is some of this because of the way we seniors learned to  type?   For
example: Software should not stumble whether there  are one or two spaces at
ends
of sentences.  I used both ways.   Windows 7 does not mind, but Windows 10?

Please let the two of us know if re-sending via  my Windows 7 is easier to
read at your end.  Only a couple  replies, please - one from each different
software will suffice.   Avital is correct; this sort of thing is not
lace-related.  If someone  knows how to help Liz, please write to her -
privately.
 Not in high  tech language, please.  Just a numbered list of what she
should do,  step-by-step.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

June 12, 2017

"Wearing Lace, a Memory of Gabrielle Pond"


I usually wear lace at Lace Days – but one time I did not – and, as
usual, I went to say Hello to Gabrielle Pond, who lived in Melbourne and
always
came to our Lace Days. I always spoke to her. She was a lovely lady, so
generous  with her knowledge, and it was always nice to chat with her. Anyway,
this  one time she looked me up and down, in the way only ‘Upper class
English
’ can  do. She  said, “I did not recognise you. You are not wearing any
lace!” Well,  that was a Big reprimand! Next Lace Day, I draped myself in
heaps of lace, went to  speak to her, and again I got the up and down look,
then
a glimmer of a smile,  and “I recognise you today, Liz. You are wearing
some lace!”   Everyone had a good laugh.  Now I try to always wear lace at a
Lace  Day - well, she might be looking down at us!!


I like wearing lace. I made it, and like to Flaunt it!!   I have been known
to wear little doilies folded, and pinned to a  neckline. I was told I had
such a pretty jabot one time – it was 3 little  doilies folded, and pinned
down the front of a blouse, each one overlapping the  lower one so it looked
like a jabot.
I have a hankie ‘falling‘ out of a pocket. It is always  safety-pinned on
the inside of the pocket, so it can not go missing. I have  not tried that
on an outside purse pocket meant for a cell phone,  though that is a good
idea.
I have 3 prs of Needlelace Earrings that I wear. Must make  some tatted
ones, too!
Regards from  Liz.

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Re: [lace] Mounting on silk fabric - Sewing and Conservation Advice

[Jeriames]

Dear Noelene,  
 
Gil Dye's first book in her 4-book series about 16th and 17th century  lace 
- "Gold and Silver Edgings" - has a reproduction of lace that was  attached 
to a man's military sash (the kind that crossed his body from one  shoulder 
to the opposite waist).  There is a color picture of the  reproduction on 
the back cover.  She gives instructions for  reproducing the spangled silver 
gilt lace in the Middleton collection in  Nottingham, and she then explains 
attaching it to a modern fabric.   Assembly is explained on page 45, and 
there is a close-up photo of the edges of  the fabric with lace attached.  I 
have seen Gil wearing the sash she made,  I think when the OIDFA Congress was 
in Normandy at Caen.  The book was  published by Jean Leader's Cleveden 
Press, and perhaps a Lace Guild in Australia  will have a copy.
 
Of importance when attaching lace to any fabric:  The lace should  be of 
similar density or weight to the textile on which it will be  used.  The lace 
must be about as flimsy as the silk you describe.   Otherwise, the "vintage" 
silk will deteriorate from too much weight  and the affect of gravity.  
Perhaps the silk would support more  weight by lining it with a new fabric, 
like China silk.  In that case,  it will be the new China silk that adds 
adequate support.  Adding a  lining to a flimsy fabric is very tricky, and 
requires skill that many  people have not developed.  
 
Conservation advice:  It will have to be determined if the sewing  thread 
should be silk.  Australian Embroiderer's Guild members work  with Japanese 
silk fabrics, threads, and needles.  There may be someone to  consult nearby. 
 When working with an old textile, we do not  know if it was properly 
stored in the past and we do not know  what dyes and chemicals permanently 
reside 
in it.  If the item requires  cleaning in the future, it will be best if 
both fabric and lace are silk,  because cotton/linen are wet-cleaned in a 
completely different way.   When stored, please keep detailed information about 
this treasure with it  in an archival-quality envelope - for future owners.  
An item in that  envelope might be a print of this advice.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA 
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
In a message dated 6/12/2017 12:11:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
noel...@lafferty.com.au writes:

A friend  of mine is seeking advice on how to mount some lace she has made 
on
to some  fine silk fabric.   It was brought back from Japan for her, and  
the
giver says it is "vintage" silk offcut from a kimono.   It is  13" wide by
39" long.  The longer sides are woven and wont fray.   She wishes to sew her
lace, which she has made to the measurement, onto the  shorter sides.
Can anyone suggest the best method of sewing her lace on to  this flimsy  
silk
fabric?

Noelene

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Re: [lace] I prefer the Arizona scans - Battenberg & Point Lace

[Jeriames]

Thank you,  Jenny.  Tess did a tremendous amount of  work.  Books may be 
easier to scan today than when she took on this  project for us, making so 
many out-of-copyright books available - free - to  anyone with a computer.  Her 
set-up meant standing for hours and hours and  lifting the books 
continuously.  If you have seen heavy original books  like the Ricci set, you 
know it 
had to be back-breaking work that required skill  so fragile pages and 
bindings would not be damaged.
 
A bit of information about this specific publication to which Jenny has  
referred, "Battenberg and Point Lace Book":  It was re-published by  Lacis in 
San Francisco in 1987, and may still be available.
 
Two copies are kept in my library.  The version Tess scanned  is under 
Priscilla, and the Lacis version is under the author's name:   Nellie Clarke 
Brown.
 
A teaching moment:  There are several ways to search for  what has been 
said about this book:  Battenberg, Nellie Clarke Brown,  Lacis, Point Lace, 
Priscilla, and by the book's title.  People who are  interested in braids may 
find the contents useful, because tapes  are similar to braids.  And, of 
course, these laces are made by a  threaded needle and are considered to be 
embroidery.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 6/11/2017 2:24:35 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
je...@brandis.com.au writes:

It was  only when I was comparing the 2 sites work that  I really  
appreciated
just how much work Tess Parish had done removing all the  background colour
from the scans, thus making it much more  readable.

To see what I mean, compare these 2 copies of the same  scan

https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/archive_003.pdf
http://archive.org/stream/priscillabattenb00brow#page/n5/mode/2up

Jenny  Brandis 

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Re: [lace] My Typo of University of Arizona's Address

[Jeriames]

For everyone's information.  Arizona is still alive and available to  solve 
our research problems.  Lately, I've noticed extra letters in my  typing, 
but did not catch this one.  Is my computer too fast, or are  fingers 
lingering on the keys?  This is something I must get under  control.  Could be 
from 
arthritis or fatigue.  
 
Please do not respond to this explanation on Arachne.  It is  off-topic. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
In a message dated 6/10/2017 2:13:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time:


Dear Jeri,


I thought that I recognized Mme Goubaud as something I had scanned.  And 
indeed, it is there as always.  The problem was that when you  typed in the 
address you made a little mistake, and computers are not  sympathetic!  If you 
check the address you posted, you will find that  there are three of the 
letter "t" in the word "patterns".  Try entering  it with the correct spelling 
and I'll bet you won't have any trouble.  Good luck!


Love, Tess 

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Re: [lace] Madame Goubaud's point lace book : instructions and patterns

[Jeriames]

Thanks, Lin.  
 
I have the original little book, and have put a copy of your note in  it.
 
It is something that I probably gave to Tess to scan into 
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/pattterns/weaving/lace.html  
 
The University of Arizona address failed 3 times just now, so I  cannot 
confirm.  I am swamped in lace correspondence and lace publicity  today, and 
cannot stop the momentum to investigate.   Perhaps someone else will help with 
this.  We have  to monitor and use the Arizona site.  It is a great lace  
research resource Arizona might take away from us at any time.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 6/10/2017 1:01:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
linhud...@gmail.com writes:

This is  now in the public domain and can be downloaded in 5  different
formats.   Enjoy.
*http://archive.org/stream/madamegoubaudspo00goub#page/n3/mode/2up
http://archive.org/stream/madamegoubaudspo00goub#page/n3/mode/2up*

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Re: [lace] Custom machine lace

[Jeriames]

Dear Devon,
 
Lace Fairy would have loved this!  She designed themed fabrics  for her 
quilts.
 
Next year's big Lace celebration in Belgium would be a good place to sell  
this lace by the yard.  Easy to pack.  
 
Being more than a little curious, I did a search, and found this  Contrado 
business has an address in London.  Have any members of Arachne  tried this? 
 As Devon has implied in her comments, this would be a great  backdrop for 
use at needlework fairs; actually, any demonstrating lace  group.  Perhaps 
we could fund raise for our groups by designing something  universal - usable 
by all?  Will something wonderful will be designed by  professional lace 
designers in Slovenia?  The Czech  Republic?  Belgium?  Italy?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 6/9/2017 8:24:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
devonth...@gmail.com writes:

Angharad  Rixon posted a link to this business on the Textile Support  
Facebook
page.
https://www.contrado.com/custom-lace-fabric-material

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[lace] IOLI Convention - Arachne Lunch

[Jeriames]

Dear Arlene,

I am testing to see if you receive a copy of this letter from me directly,
as well as a cc from Arachne.  That would be 2 copies in your  mail.  I did
not receive your original posting of the Arachne  gathering, though I found
it in the Arachne archive because Jane  wrote to Arachne..

AOL and Yahoo are not on speaking terms, and that may be the answer.   Just
another example of how important it is for someone using an ISP other than
those 2 to write a reply via Arachne, as Jane did.

Jane, thank you.  Perhaps other people had my experience, and will be  at
the Convention.  Now they know to write to Arlene (address attached in a
trimmed message from her).

I will not be at convention.  There were no needlelace classes, and no
class that I would call "educational" (like Lace ID).  I can  manage an
educational or needlelace class without having to go back to  beginning bobbin
lace
and spending time practicing for a one-time class  experience and
unfinished lace to add to all the other unfinished lace examples  being given
shelf
space here.  I prefer a class  experience that I can share later with Arachne
and 9 other lace groups to  which I belong.  Add 2 embroidery guild
memberships, and you can imagine  what fun it is to receive newsletters and
magazines from all these  sources.

Thank you, Arlene, for bringing our Arachne members together at the  IOLI
Convention.  Everyone will have a lot of fun meeting each  other.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center



 From: valhallab...@neb.rr.com
To: abcohen1...@yahoo.com
CC:  lace@arachne.com
Sent: 6/9/2017 9:37:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj:  Re: [lace] Arachne gathering at IOLI Convention


As of now, I am planning on attending the lunch gathering of  Arachne.
Last year was the first time I attended.  It’s quite  fun.  And a
chance
to meet more lacers.Jane  Nelson

On Jun 4, 2017, at 8:51 PM, Arlene Cohen   wrote:

I am a member of the Liberty Lacers (not part of the main organizing
committee, but right now, a happy minion to be helping in places where help is
needed) and I am volunteering to organize a gathering for Arachne at the IOLI
 Convention this year.

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[lace] Karen Thompson's New Book "Lace Samples from Ipswich...."

[Jeriames]

"Lace Samples from Ipswich, Massachusetts,  1789-1790.
History,  Patterns, and Working Diagrams for 22 Lace Samples
Preserved  at the Library of Congress"
By Karen H  Thompson  
 
This  much-anticipated self-published book compliments 2003's "The Laces of 
Ipswich",  by Marta Cotterell Raffel, which caused quite a stir in America 
when it brought  this startling early American lace history to us.  To  
date, Ipswich Lace is the only Colonial Era commercially-produced (in  private 
homes) handmade lace industry that has been discovered in  America.  It is 
very well documented in the Library of Congress papers  of Alexander Hamilton, 
America's first Secretary of the Treasury.  Actual  examples of Ipswich 
Lace were enclosed with these papers that describe the lace  industry.  Karen 
has skillfully reproduced 22 of these samples.   The book will be of special 
interest to lacemakers who would like to make  black silk bobbin lace, 
historians, and people who specialize in authentic  costuming.
 
72 page  soft cover book printed on quality paper,  2017
ISBN:  978-0-9990385-0-5
Price:  $24 from  Amazon 
Basic technical information is given; working diagrams are in  color.
 
When you  open to the individual patterns, everything you need to know is 
printed on  facing pages.
 
On the  left page:  Photos of the Original Sample and Karen's  Reproduction 
side-by-side.
 
On the  right page:  Supplies required, working diagram in color 
side-by-side with  a pricking pattern.  The patterns will be easy to copy for 
use on a 
lace  pillow because they are near the right edge of the  page.
 
A  feature that will be appreciated by scholars:  Numbered Notes in the  
text are explained at the bottom of the page on which they appear; there is no 
 need to find them somewhere at the back of the  book. 
 
For the  benefit of those who may be studying American Ipswich Lace in the 
future, a  guild's library might acquire an archival box in which to place  
everything presently available on the subject.   Specifically:
 
1.   "The Lace Samples from Ipswich, Massachusetts, 1789-1790" by Karen H 
Thompson,  2017.
 Any articles mentioned in this  book that may be printed (internet 
sites may disappear in time).
2.   "The Laces of Ipswich" by Marta Cotterell Raffel, 2003,  1-58465-163-6.
 Publications in which this research appeared  prior to book 
publishing, some in name of Cotterell. 
3.   "Fine Thread, Lace & Hosiery in Ipswich", Ipswich Historical Society,  
1903.
4.   Information about the Ipswich Historical  Society.
5.   Book reviews, magazine articles and ephemera related to Ipswich  Lace.
  
Individuals might set up a 3-ring binder with inside pockets for  the 
books, and print/insert available information to keep the subject  together.  
We 
stand on the shoulders of lacemakers of the past, and we know  their history 
has largely been undocumented.  A lesson learned from  this research is to 
keep what you can or donate to a guild that will protect  your lace history, 
 
Karen's  new book is a winner!  Americans may wish to order it from Karen  
Thompson before July 1, or from Amazon before going to the IOLI  
(International Organization of Lace) Convention the  week of July 16, 2017.  
Karen is 
on the faculty.  Participants  will have an opportunity to buy the book at 
Convention from Maria  Provencher or Holly Van Sciver.
 
Jeri Ames  in Maine USA
Lace and  Embroidery Resource  Center

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[lace] Testing Results

[Jeriames]

Thank you, Responders.
 
What we have confirmed today is that none of the special characters on  our 
keyboards, with the exception of quote marks, work in Canada, the U.S.  and 
the U.K.
 
Too many of our members are in these geographic locations for us to  
consider possible options.
 
A suggestion just received was to post a Blog and then announce it on  
Arachne.  Not everyone is a part of the Blog world, Face Book,  etc.  We have 
many who trust our server, but no alternatives.  
 
It is most unfortunate that there is not a person with a newer spare server 
 that we could migrate to without cost.  We would all hope one that  would 
deliver to all ISPs, some of which are not accepting posts from other  
ISPs..  
 
Arachne has been an ideal solution for many lacemakers in many  countries.  
We do not realize how many until we see letters about the  exchanges of 
Holiday cards and Bookmarks.  Then, we realize how  wonderful our Server gift 
from Liz has been.  One note today was thanks  from a lacemaker in Poland to 
a lacemaker in South Africa.  At what  time in history has a select group of 
no more than 1,000 people been so  connected in a way that yields immediate 
delivery of mail at no cost?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Ebroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Testing whether Italics will process on Arachne's Old Server

[Jeriames]

As you know, color, fancy type faces, diagrams and photos cannot be  used 
on Arachne mail..
 
When books are reviewed, it is nice to put a title in bold italics  instead 
of using quote marks.  Some non-English language computers do  not take 
kindly to quote marks and you are looking at a bunch of funny  characters when 
we use them.  
 
Italics would be a solution, if they work on mail passing through our  old 
Arachne Server.  Let us test what happens with the series of  options below. 
 Did any of these work everywhere?  Each time, after  describing 5 actions, 
I have test-typed what has been described with the  phrase:
 
This is a test.
 
What happens with quote marks:  "This is a test."
 
What happens with italics:  This is a  test..
 
What happens with bold type:  This is a test.
 
What happens with both italics and bold:  This  is a test.
 
What happens with an underline:  This is a test.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA

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[lace] Authentic Handmade Laces for Sale - Hungary

[Jeriames]

Kiskunhalas Hungary is famous for the Lace House - Lace Museum where  the 
Queen of Laces - Halas - is beautifully exhibited.   Visitors may look 
through a window and watch women making this famous needle  lace.  Tiny perfect 
laces are made to insert in pins and  pendants.  They also make small doilies, 
and other specialties.   Perhaps the best known are a selection of 
butterflies.  Americans  measure in inches.  From wing-tip to wing-tip my 
smallest 
butterfly  measures 1"; the largest is 5 3/4".  To avoid loss of these filmy  
laces, all my in-between-sized butterflies are confined under  glass - in 
frames - hung on my library's walls.  

A selection of lace is available in the Museum's gift shop.   When a piece 
of lace is ordered in Budapest, the lace is so valuable that a  lacemaker 
may take the pokey local train to the city and deliver it in  person.  Too 
many pieces of lace have been "lost" in the mail.   Perhaps, "stolen".
 
Halas lace that is not sold in Kiskunhalas is sold only in very  elite 
shops in Budapest where costly jewelry shares the display cases.   We must 
remember that the armies of Germany and Russia destroyed nearly  everything of 
value in Hungary in 20th Century wars.  It is possible to see  the scars of 
war on buildings that are still lived in.  The chances of  being able to buy 
an old piece of this lace made before World War I is  nearly impossible.  
Most was lost.  It is so very valued by  Hungarians that such pieces are kept 
in families and passed from generation  to generation. 
 
There is a book Halas Lace by Laszlo  Emoke, (English/Hungarian/German) 
that can be used as a catalog from which  to order Halas laces.  Each 
photographed lace is numbered, so they  know exactly what you want.  This book 
also 
gives the history of Halas  lace, which first surfaced in 1902. 
 
You may have seen little tags attached to old laces that identified where  
they were made.  However, most of these have been removed.   Kiskunhalas, 
which translates to 3 fish and is a reference to 3 small bodies of  water in 
the town, is different.  The lacemakers actually use their  needles to stitch 
the trademark of their laces on each piece.  This is  the image of 3 
crossed fish.  
 
Anyone not associated with official lace manufactured in  Kiskunhalas who 
has learned to make this lace should never put the  trademark on their laces. 
 If displayed, it should be labeled something  like "In the style of Halas 
Lace".
 
Kiskunhalas can be reached by motor vehicle or by train.  It is best  to 
have someone with you who has a knowledge of Hungarian, because signs are not  
in English.  When traveling around Hungary, if you wish to ask a question,  
pose it to someone under the age of 40, who probably learned English in  
school.  It is easier to communicate in Eastern Europe than in several  
nations in Southern Europe.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Gil Dye's New Book: Introducing Bone Lace

[Jeriames]

Gil Dye, Jean Leader and I have  been corresponding about this new little 
book.  Again, it is not one I am  able to review at this time.  A copy is 
being hand-carried to me.   Perhaps you have already purchased it and would 
like to provide a review to  Arachne members.  
 
If you are placing an order for  several new books, you'll want to have 
this basic  information.
 
Author:  Gilian  Dye
Title:  Introducing Bone  Lace - A Beginner's Guide to Working Early Bobbin 
Lace
Publisher:  Cleveden Press  (Jean Leader)
44 page A5 size Soft cover,  2017
79 images including samples,  patterns, diagrams
 
 
(Gil Dye is guilty of giving a  lot of information to our various lace 
guilds and guild members in the  form of donated articles for our various guild 
magazines/bulletins.  For  this reason, I wish to publicly thank her for her 
generosity of  spirit.  Her publisher, Jean Leader, has given (and is 
giving) so much to  us that it is staggering.  Jeri Ames)

 
Price of Introducing Bone  Lace varies depending on where you order it.
 
http://clevedenpress.wordpress.com/publications 
Scotland:  10 pounds +  shipping/handling
 
http://www.barbara-fay.com
Germany:  19,00 euros +  shipping/handling
 
_www.vansciverbobbinlace.com_ (http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com) 
USA:  $19.95 +  shipping/handling
 
Van Sciver's site provides  further information:  This book, a mix of 
history and practical  instruction, assumes no previous knowledge of bobbin 
lace, 
so is suitable for  complete beginners.  It would also be of interest to 
textile researchers  and those involved in re-enactment or costumed  
interpretation.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine  USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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[lace] Jana Novak's New Book Series: Perfect Lace Technique

[Jeriames]

Jana Novak has sent information to share with you.  I will not be  able to 
review her new book at this time, because there is not a copy  on this side 
of the Atlantic Ocean.  However, as you begin a new Summer of  lacemaking, 
demonstrating, and teaching in the northern Hemisphere, it may  be one of 
special interest to you.
 
This is available from Barbara Fay in Germany: a quality book supplier  
many people use, including Americans and Canadians.  I often order from  them 
and have found their shipping/handling fees to  be reasonable: 
http://www.barbara-fay.com
 
Author:  Jana Novak
Title:  Perfect Lace Technique 1 - Beginning
Languages:  English, German, Danish, Czech
74 page Hardback, 2017
28,00 Euros
 
This is the first of 6 books on the subject of Perfect Lace  Technique.  
Each describes a specific topic.
 
Book collectors will be quite familiar with Jana Novak's books and  
innovative designs, which always yield positive reviews.
 
Before you order - my next memo is about Gil Dye's new book, also  
available from Barbara Fay.  Buy 2 and save on shipping/handling.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Authentic Handmade Laces for Sale - England

[Jeriames]

A new topic that I hope will generate some really good  information. 
starting with England.  Please change the word  England in the subject line, 
and 
tell us about a place you have found to buy  handmade lace, preferably a 
not-for-profit place like a museum:  Tomorrow,  I'll change the heading to 
Hungary and tell you about Kiskunhalas.  After  that, it is your turn..
 
Visit a place where authentic laces are featured:  Allhallows in  Honiton.  
They receive donations of old laces, they salvage elements in old  damaged 
laces (like flowers), and they sell them inserted in jewelry  (pins and 
pendants) in the gift shop.  They also sell  presentable old Honiton items 
(like 
collars) that are not suitable to keep  in their museum collection, which 
are useful to have when you are setting  up a lace exhibit.  I have purchased 
both these types of lace and also  gently-used lace books right in the 
museum shop.
 
It is about 10 years since I last visited this lovely market town and its  
museum.  Honiton is a delightful place with a beautiful main  street of 
shops of all kinds, human-sized buildings, and it appears to be  prosperous and 
safe.
 
All they show in the Allhallows Shop on line is a Honiton Lace Starter  
Kit.  No prices, no description.  Clicks do not work.  They  apparently need a 
volunteer to help them market things that will raise money for  the museum, 
starting with improving their web site to be more  user-friendly.  Is there 
someone who belongs to The Lace Guild  (England) who is located near Honiton 
and reading this?  Can you  help us with information?
 
I see opportunities for keeping Arachne supplied with the  latest lace news 
every day.  We need to share to keep  Arachne interesting.
 
https://www.honitonmuseum.org/ 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Fake Labeling of Laces for Sale in Europe

[Jeriames]

If you know people who do not receive my AOL messages who should receive  
this, please feel free to forward it to them.
 
For all who travel and like to bring home lace from the traditional places  
where handmade lace is made in Europe:
 
When we advise our friends, who usually do not know as much about handmade  
lace as we do, it is wise to warn them about touristy places and their 
practices  of palming off imported laces from places in the Orient.  I learned 
from a  Belgian friend 20 years ago, and it was written here on Arachne a few 
 times, that the law (at least in Belgium) is that if it is labeled "Made 
in  Belgium" - it really must be made in country.  If it is  labeled "Belgian 
Lace" - it could be made anywhere.  
 
One of our previous Arachne correspondents added to this that she knew  of 
someone who had a job in Belgium re-labeling imported laces.  That  means, 
removing what was attached on imports by law (a Chinese label), and  
replacing with "Belgian Lace".  Everyone, please be sure you tell your  
traveling 
friends about this practice.  It is probably the same in Italy,  another place 
with a strong lace history.
 
You must also be careful in Eastern European nations where people  think 
they are buying laces or embroideries from the country they are  visiting.  
Many are made elsewhere and are marketed by Gypsies.When you see masses of 
laces offered in places you are visiting, it is  OK to buy, but know the 
laces and embroideries are probably not from  that place.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
--
Re:  Burano Italian Laces
 
The museum has lace-related books and postcards. I would say that  99%
of the lace sold in the tourist shops that line the route to  the
museum comes from China. There are probably some shops that do  sell
Burano lace, but you'd have to Google them, take your own  magnifying
glass, and a heavy wallet!

Enjoy! Burano is such fun to  photograph.  Avital

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Re: [lace] FW: IDRIA Lace 5-Way Join through one bead, and hanging beads

[Jeriames]

Thank you to Karolina in Australia (who may not want her personal e-mail to 
 be public).  I sent a personal note to you this morning, but do not know 
if  you receive AOL mail.  What you offered seems to have been the closest to 
 what Vi needed in order to complete and display the Idrija earrings next  
Tuesday.  
 
Are others struggling with this pattern?  I have included Karolina's  
instructions below, just in case.  

In  response to the query - there is no crossing but a twisted worker  pair
going from one inside point of the central petal to the opposite one  as you
go and coming back the same way. On the way back on the exposed  parts of 
the
twisted pair a false plait is made. Both twisted pairs pass  through the
central bead there and back so the central bead has to be large  enough to
accommodate  all these threads. To finish off - the tassel  with beads is
worked separately and attached to the central bead.
Please  note - all inside connections of the flower are worked as you go 
with
a  twisted worker pair being sewn into the opposite side loop coming  back
doing a false plait to merge the two together creating a pleasing  look. 

Alternatively, you can always finish the center part off with  needle and
thread if you wish to avoid the bulk inside the bead or have a  smaller 
bead.
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Woven lace techniques using a rigid heddle backstrap loom

[Jeriames]

The Fashion Museum in Bath has sent out a publicity notice of  a class this 
coming weekend.  This might be a subject for discussion on  Arachne, or for 
a newsletter article (if an expert is too shy to share  directly with 
Arachne).  Here are the details - re-typed because of our  limitations with 
photos and special type faces:
 
"Weaving lace effects workshop - Learn how to create different  woven lace 
techniques using a rigid heddle backstrap loom and finger control  with 
Penny Wheeler.  Taking inspiration from Lace in Fashion (the exhibit)  you will 
come away with beautiful samples of woven lace.  The workshop is  suitable 
for those new to weaving or with some experience."
 
What would be nice to know is if one of our Arachne  members can recommend 
books about this subject and tell us a  little about it?  Also, refer us to 
a web site that is  illustrated?
 
We have got to pump some new energy into Arachne, or it will fade  away.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] 2 - IDRIA Lace 5-Way Join through one bead, and hanging beads

[Jeriames]

Thanks to Arachne members in Canada (Adele), Germany (Ilske) and the  U.S 
(Sue), I think Vi has clues to a solution of how to continue  making the 
Idrija earrings.
 
To any Newbies - this is an example of how our Arachnes have solved  
problems over the past 2 decades.  If you have lacemaking problems,  please 
send 
them to Arachne instead of becoming discouraged.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] IDRIA Lace 5-Way Join through one bead, and hanging beads

[Jeriames]

One of our most talented bobbin lace makers here in Maine contacted me  
early this morning with a technical question that I cannot answer.   But, 
someone on Arachne can!  I told her we might get a speedy response  because in 
Europe it is already afternoon.  I requested a description of  the pattern Vi 
is using.  Vi does know how to do this maneuver  with a 4-petal flower.  
Details follow:  
 
I have all the Idrija books that are available as well as  instructions 
from two Idrija classes with Allie Marguccio, but there is no  instruction on 
this particular situation.  

This is a  pattern for a 5-petal flower with a bead in the center and three 
beads  hanging below the flower, attached to the flower.  It was purchased  
from www.lacepatterns.eu (PAPRO).  The designer is Irma Pervanja, and the  
pattern was on a loose sheet of paper.  The design number is st. 132202, 5  
cm.  I have all the Idrija Lace books available to the U.S. And none of  the 
Idrija Lace books include a 5-way join through the center of a  bead.  I 
have done lots of Idrija Lace jewelry and never came across this  puzzle 
before.  
 
Also, how should the three hanging beads below the flower be  done?

Thank you for any help on this lace issue!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Turning corners on roller pillow - Southard Book

[Jeriames]

Dear Sally in Oregon USA, 
 
Thank you for telling where you are from.  I can refer you to a  well-known 
American book for the answers you require.  This is a book  that was widely 
distributed in the USA, and so popular it was reprinted with a  soft cover, 
so I'll give you the information from both that you need when  you go to a 
library to request an Interlibrary Loan:
 
In either version of the book, you need to reference pages  118-120.
 
Author:  Doris Southard
Title:  Bobbin Lacemaking
Copyright: 1977
Hardback ISBN:  0-684-15032-8, pub. by Charles Scribner's 1977
Soft cover:  ISBN:  0-684-17894-X, pub. by Charles Scribner's  1983
Total book = 216 pages
 
This is a basic book that all lace book collectors will have.  If  you have 
access to a Lace Guild's library, you should be able to borrow from  them.  
It will be available from International Organization of Lace  Inc.
 
You'll need the book for the illustrations of how to make and place a  
pattern on a cone bolster.  It says "A special pattern is used, which  includes 
a complete corner plus a straight length of pattern equal to  the 
measurement of one side of the handkerchief...  The pattern is matched  at the 
ends 
and joined so that it is continuous around the cone.  You work  around and 
around as though you were making straight lace."
 
Instructions are given for making a cone bolster, though there  are other 
methods that are of better quality (depends how often you'd  use a cone).  
Another use for a cone is to make a lace that is  flared (like an A-line 
skirt) so you do not have to gather a straight lace  to make a ruffle.  This 
uses 
less thread than a straight lace that is  gathered would, and takes less 
time to make.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 
(Private collection of over 1,000 lace books) 
 
 
In a message dated 5/25/2017 11:00:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dansing...@gmail.com writes:

I have  seen the conical (as opposed to cylindrical) rollers for making 
corners, and  I
understand how they work, but how do you then go on working a  straight
piece of lace after you've made the corner?  Do you have to  transfer your
work back to a cylinder?  And then transfer it to a  cone again for the next
corner?  Sally in western  Oregon

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[lace] www.worldlacecongressbrugge2018.be

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers,
 
I am going to try to clarify the situation as I believe it to be.  If  I am 
wrong, Greet Rome (an extremely busy woman) is a member of Arachne and will 
 write to us.  English is not her first or second language, so  please be 
patient.
 
Jennifer McNitt wrote asking about this event.  Nancy Neff provided  some 
information.  What you may have missed on Arachne was information  contained 
within a memo dated 4/28/17 from Greet Rome, the Lier Lace  expert.  Greet 
is a personal friend of mine.  She has been  working on this lace event for 4 
years.  If anyone wishes to write directly  to me, I could start a list of 
interested Arachne members, by nation.  Then  we can correspond amongst 
ourselves more securely, without making our  travel plans public on a site like 
Arachne. 
 
We keep asking and asking correspondents for their  location because it 
helps us form a more precise reply and it was one of  the requirements when 
Arachne was established.  Please do this when writing  to me.  I am much more 
private than Face Book, and wish you all to be as  safe as possible when 
making plans.  Do not share my contact info with Face  Book.  Greet is a member 
and will take care of that.  There is a  reason you are a member of Arachne. 
 We take care of each other on a  personal level.
 
I've put the 4/18/17 excerpt from Greet Rome below this string of  
comments, removing the Lier info.  Greet now has a co-chairman to help  
shoulder the 
load.  You all need to know an international meeting is  much more work 
than the usual lace conventions.  It requires several years  of 
pre-arrangements with accommodations, tour coaches, facilities to be  visited 
and used for 
meetings and special events, meal reservations when we are  on the road, and 
engaging artists and volunteers who will make this a  pleasurable 
experience.  Bear in mind that each nation has different  "laws" to obey when 
setting 
up such an event.
 
**Greet gives a date of 1.6.2017.  In Europe, this may  mean 1st of June, 
2017 for "Subscription".  Please keep the address  given in the subject line 
and try it after June 1st.  At present, you  cannot get past the main page.  
There are icons for different languages for  when you are able to use this 
site.   Capable people have to be  available to respond to you in your 
language when this is  activated.**
 
If you know someone who has complained she does not receive my letters sent 
 via AOL, please share this with her.  It will show up in the Arachne  
archives:  
http://www.mail-archive.com/arachne.com/index.html
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 

>From Nancy Neff, Connecticut USA  May 15, 2017
 
There's a facebook group for the conference  at
https://www.facebook.com/WLCB2018/, but the recent postings don't seem  to
have anything to do with the conference.  Maybe you could message  the
admins for information?  The most recent thing Google comes up with  for 
the conference is August
2016, the initial announcement of it.  
---
On Mon, May  15, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Jennifer McNitt  
wrote:

It has been a while since I have  seen any new information about this
conference, so I wanted to see if anyone  from the US has made plans to
attend this event yet.  I'm mostly  interested in the seminar and tour days 
but information has
been slow coming  it seems since it was originally  announced.

From: greet.r...@gmail.com
To: nancy.a.n...@gmail.com, d...@hotmail.com,  jbl...@sbcglobal.net
CC: lace@arachne.com
Sent: 4/28/2017 3:58:22 A.M.  Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: RE: [lace] Lier Lace??

As for now I am working on the preparation of the next year World  
Congress
in Belgium/Bruges.  Subscription is possible from  (after) 1.6.2017.
It is going to be a major event with lots of  exhibitions in Bruges and all
over Belgium.  A once in a lifetime  LACE-experience...
www.worldlacecongressbrugge2018.be

Greet  Rome-Verbeylen
Brugge 2018 vzw

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[lace] Lace Table Ideas

[Jeriames]

Looking for something else, I came upon a site for tables that magicians  
might use.  Perhaps there are some design ideas here for use at a   lace 
convention.  The products are expensive, but will inspire our  improvisers. 
 
http://themagicwarehouse.com/atable/magicians-tables.html=1
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Thistle Threads Subjects on TV Sunday Morning

[Jeriames]

Did anyone receive my memo yesterday about the Thistle Threads blog?
 
One subject was Tricia Wilson Nguyen's recommendations of You Tube,  
podcasts, audio books while you are doing handwork.  We women DO  multi-task, 
and 
some of her text was very interesting.  Many of  you are able to make Lace 
and learn something new at the same  time!  
 
On this morning's CBS Sunday Morning program, hosted by Jane  Pauley, there 
was a segment about something related to  this: Soundless slow-motion 
Public TV (without ads) in Norway.   It seems to have become a fad there, and 
is 
a nice way to watch something out of  the corner of your eye while making 
Lace.  They showed a variety of film  examples, one of which was about 
knitting, sheep shearing, etc.  Some of  these films run without repeating for 
many 
hours.  It's non-intrusive,  yet keeps you company when you glance up to 
re-focus your eyes.  
 
Second, there was coverage on this same program about children  competing 
in the Robotic championships.  Had you read my memo and then  the Thistle 
Threads Blog, it would have jumped right out at you.   These particular 
participants were quite young, compared to the teenagers that  Tricia Wilson 
Nguyen 
coaches.
 
Correspondence on Arachne is scarce.  It is not a good trend.   Surely, you 
have something to say about a recent guild meeting's speaker, work  you are 
doing, questions to ask?  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Thistle Threads Blog March/April 2017

[Jeriames]

New England Treasures:  Tricia Wilson Nguyen's Thistle Threads  Blog 
 
http://thistle-threads.blogspot.com/
 
Running from computer to library room recently, for some reason Thistle  
Threads flashed in my mind.  Sure enough, there is new  interesting and 
amusing content to read from this embroidery scholar (remember  the Plimoth 
Jacket, trimmed with gold lace) and practicing Engineer with a  PhD from MIT.  
You'll be inspired.  There is usually something for  everyone and you can work 
your way back further than the 15 pages that first  appear.  The entries are 
in reverse order - most recent is first.
 
1.  4/22/17  Digital printed fabric/wrapping paper on  demand.  Think of 
Lace.  How nice to make fabric that can take the  wear and tear that fine 
threads cannot.  How nice to wrap gifts in paper  featuring Lace.
 
2.  4/1/17  Listening (or watching from the corner of your  eye) to 
something while you stitch (make Lace)?  There is a Maine  lacemaker who will 
be 
intrigued by 1500 hours of organized historical  documentaries.  Then, the 
podcast you may listen to:  "Stuff You  Missed in History Class", because if 
you are making Lace reproductions,  you probably have some interest in the 
period in which it was originally  made.  Listen, and spin a tale the next time 
you demonstrate.  Audio  books.
 
3.  3/27/17  Silk Purls.  You may be familiar with metal  purls used in 
silk and metal embroideries, but you've probably never seen silk  purls for 
sale.  They are fascinating little silk covered silk  springs.  Imagine 
something like a ring pillow embroidered with these,  and trimmed with Lace.  
Very 
elegant.  You can see works made hundreds  of years ago, specifically - an 
example of a 17th C. embroidered  casket in which women kept their greatest 
treasures.  Mirror frames  were also popular.  These Stumpworks also feature 
needle lace.
 
4.  3/23/17  Marbling Paper - link to a video.  This falls  in the category 
that we might call  crafts-related-to-Lace-and-Embroidery, because you 
never know when the  information might be required.
 
5.  3/21-20/17  As an Engineer/Coach, the challenges Nguyen faced  
mentoring a group of teen boys who built and programmed robots for a large  
competition dominates this blog.  She is, after all, a genius  with several 
compelling interests.  Would lacemakers ever be this  competitive in figuring 
out a 
complex lace pricking like ones seen in  Normandy museums?  (Here, I am 
reminded of Milton Sonday who was  curator of a lace exhibit at the 
Cooper-Hewitt Museum in 1982,  having previously been responsible for an 
exhibit about 
the Brooklyn  Bridge.  In a gallery talk to members of The Lace Guild of New 
York,  he said lace prickings were more complex than blueprints for the  
Brooklyn Bridge.  How many people saw this exhibit?)  We read the  teenagers' 
You Tube Channel had over 51,000 views in one  season!  Are there even that 
many lacemakers left in our  world?   
 
6.  Nguyen wraps up with her take on the BBC broadcast where small  
children ran into camera range while their father was on air.  All who have  
juggled careers with motherhood, will enjoy this.
 
You have an option to read Older Posts.
 
Did you enjoy following up on this?  Please let us know.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Re: Lace magazine/ official email addresses

[Jeriames]

Dear Jane Partridge,
 
Thank you for this explanation.  Nice to know, as The Lace Guild was  not 
mentioned in the original correspondence, only the word Guild.  There  are 
other "Lace" publications that members of Guilds  worldwide receive.  Gmail is 
used by people in many nations; not  exclusive to one country.  Some on 
Arachne will agree (if you are  careful as to with whom you are exchanging 
personal information)  that it is best if an official position is given below a 
 
signature.  In fact, the original old "guidelines" for new Arachne  members 
asked for a signature and general location.  
 
As a matter of information, and not to tell anyone what to do:  Eight  
official officers of the New England Lace Group (approximately 100  members) 
all 
have addresses formatted like the 2  that follow:  
_NELGPresident@(ISP_ (mailto:NELGPresident@(ISP) )  _NELGLibrarian@(ISP_ 
(mailto:NELGLibrarian@(ISP) )These  e-mail addresses never change.  They 
are reassigned after  elections or upon being appointed to a position.  Any  
of 8 officers may write to one (or all) members, and we know  precisely in 
what capacity they are communicating.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
 
In a message dated 5/1/2017 3:22:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mous...@live.co.uk writes:
 
Clare is a member of the current Executive Committee of The Lace Guild. She 
 is
also a member of Arachne in her personal capacity - so her return address  
will
be a personal one (I don't think I have ever seen a committee member of  
any of
the organisations join Arachne in an official capacity,  since it  started 
in
1995, but I may be wrong).

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Re: [lace] Lace magazine

[Jeriames]

Dear Clare,  
 
As one who has promoted The Lace Guild to members of Arachne quite often,  
may I ask:  Are you associated with "Lace"?  If so, it would be nice  if The 
Lace Guild provided an official e-mail address to you.   (Your return 
address is a personal one that anyone could have used for any  
unrelated-to-lace 
purpose, including to collect our addresses.)  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 5/1/2017 6:37:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
clareandver...@gmail.com writes:

Jean's  message has reminded me, can overseas Guild members please let me
know when  the get their April magazine, we have changed the postal method
for  overseas members and would like to know if it works better.  Thanks,  
Clare

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[lace] Threads that are not Colorfast

[Jeriames]

Everyone:  Remember that I have given advice about dyed threads and  the 
fact they may bleed when washed on a regular schedule.  At this  current time 
in history, lacemakers are making colored lace.  They  need to test dyed 
threads before making a time-consuming lace.
 
If you are washing a white item trimmed with colored lace and embroidery  
for the first time, it is best to test each color with an eye dropper until  
water saturated, followed by being blotted with an absorbent white fabric or 
 paper.  If there is a problem, it may show (though not always) when you do 
 this..  If the item is already in water and colors are running, you must  
not let that item dry because the color will set in the white fabric.  It  
needs to be rinsed and rinsed.  Sometimes, dye stains on white fabric will  
never come out.  (Final rinse should be with distilled water, of  course.)
 
Remember that in the 4th Quarter, 20th Century, DMC changed dye  formulas 
to comply with new clean water laws and issued - to shop  owners - a list of 
color numbers that were not color-fast.  You do not  know which threads were 
affected.  Yes, they should have made them  color-fast and spread the cost 
over the entire line of threads.   But... 
 
Please do not give old colored threads to younger members of your family  
for their first adventures into making lace or embroidery without  
pre-testing.  Same with threads packaged into saved kits for events  like an 
expected 
baby, family wedding sampler, etc. that they might spend a  long time 
completing.  And remember, just as you teach young  people to wash their hands 
before cooking, teach them to wash their hands  before doing any form of 
needlework.  The problem is that they are more  likely to make something that 
must 
be washed.
 
If there is any disaster with wet cleaning, you've probably lost a  21st 
century needlewoman forever. 
 
You may share this information with your lace groups.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Red Dye Stains and Using Rit Dye Remover

[Jeriames]

Please computer search Rit dye remover - there is a lot of information  
available..
 
Over 40 years ago, I tried to dye some beautiful textured-like-lace  braid 
- for use as trim on 2 antique  upholstered chairs.  Originally white, it 
needed to be a soft  gold.  The gold Rit dye did not "take" evenly.  I 
remember a Rit dye  remover took out all the "finishing chemicals" to which the 
 
manufacturers had subjected the braid.  The next step was to dye the braid  a 
second time.  It "took", and the gold upholstered chairs are almost  
like-new in the lace and embroidery library.   There has been no  change in the 
color.  
 
I am very familiar with conservation and restoration of laces and  
embroideries, but at the time had not gone to museum-offered conferences on the 
 
subject.  For my purpose, it was fine.  I would not guarantee red dye  will be 
removed without damage.  However, I think the Rit dye remover would  be fine 
on the all-white washable religious vestment that started this  discussion. 
 It is a garment that probably was meant to be washed  and to eventually 
wear out.
 
However, Alice, I suggest you examine the lace to determine if it  
can/should be removed before this treatment.  (Probably it has been washed  
before.) 
  Has the lace also been affected by the  dye?  Also, if the lace is in 
good condition, someone could make a  pattern from the garment so it can be 
remade in new fabric at some future date,  and maybe the lace can be recycled.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
A lady in my area has a white priest's robe with lace on it,  including 
wide cuffs.  Red satin was placed behind the lace to show it  off.  Evidently 
someone washed the robe without removing the red satin, and  it has red color 
on the white fabric... the garment was from early or mid 20th  century so 
is not really early.  The lace is probably machine made, from  the picture.  
I think the fabric is cotton.  Does anyone have a  suggestion of how to get 
red marks out of fabric?   Alice in  Oregon

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[lace] Contemporary high fashion from The Netherlands

[Jeriames]

http://hiddenfashionhistory.com/uncategorized/come-to-pittsburgh-and-see-the
-iris-van-herpen-show-at-cmoa/
 
One of the Lacemakers of Maine tipped me off to this exhibit in Pittsburgh  
Pennsylvania, which will close soon.  You can search the name of Iris  van 
Herpen to see more.  I suspect she had access to the lace  collection at the 
Rijksmuseum.  If not, perhaps the lacemakers in  Amsterdam could invite her 
to a lace exhibit that would inspire.
 
Wouldn't you love to have someone like her continuously presenting  
fashions that use or are inspired by traditional lace?  Fashion  magazine 
editors 
always take note when contemporary lace is introduced  to them in new ways.  
Remember the flying lace "cap" over an Amsterdam  canal engineered by 
Choishine, the young Boston area architects?   We must show people of any age, 
the 
possibilities of lace as an art,  whether small or large.  It is the 
unexpected that young professionals of  our time are delightedly discovering.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Jeriames, help with contact

[Jeriames]

Lace Magicians:  I am aware Brian is trying to reach me.  Thanks  for the 
personal notes.  Jeri

 
In a message dated 4/17/2017 12:35:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
brid...@bigpond.com writes:

I am  trying to contact Jeriames, but I keep getting rejected by AOL.

Can  someone help me contact her please?   

Brian

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[lace] Conservation and Over-coming Dim Lighting in Museum Galleries - 2

[Jeriames]

About protecting personal identification:

Since Jane's exhibit review letter went to all on Arachne, I want to  be
sure to mention that I sent a copy to Arachne and The Fashion Museum  **from
which Jane's personal identifying information was stripped**.  Only  her
given name and general physical location was used.  I sent a  second copy
directly to Jane and 3 other individuals whom I thought might  have trouble
receiving my AOL email.

Those of you who have seen me running around at OIDFA Congresses know that
I do not carry a camera - anywhere.  I find that getting involved in taking
 photos interferes with my enjoyment of what is being viewed.  I ask others
 for photos when they are needed to illustrate what I write - but that
would not  be for Arachne, which cannot accommodate them!

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center


In a message dated 4/13/2017 6:29:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
janefr...@googlemail.com writes:

I’m a  little bit concerned that you should forward my, strictly
personal,  opinion to the museum. I think that my reaction to it was
based partly on  expectation.
Jane

On 13/04/2017 16:25, jeria...@aol.com wrote  directly to Jane and 3 others:
> Ladies, In case you did not receive  directly from Arachne, I'm
> forwarding today's letter directly to  you.  I thought you might not want
> The Fashion Museum Bath to  have your addresses.   Jeri

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[lace] X-ray Photography of Historic Fashions

[Jeriames]

You may enjoy viewing a video of the process of photographing  historic 
costumes using X-ray equipment at the Victoria and Albert  Museum.  This will 
be of interest to those interested in 
 
Photography - Conservation/Restoration - Lace/Costume Identification -  
Authentic Costuming
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p-2aDOj-54
 
Back when they were published by the Victoria and Albert, we wrote about  
the 2-volume set of books titled Seventeenth-Century Women's Patterns,  
edited by Susan North and Jenny Tiramani.  Book 1 in 2011; Book 2 in  2012.  
This 
is where we learned that ghostly X-ray images reveal much that  we never 
knew about the construction of complex garments of the past.  Lace  is often 
an important element of fashion items, and you will find the  presentation 
gloves to be of particular interest, and how about that  contemporary jacket 
constructed of hair pins?
 
Like?  Let us know.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Conservation and Over-coming Dim Lighting in Museum Galleries

[Jeriames]

As Malvary (Canadian) suggested, I am sending the correspondence  from Jane
(below my Conservation memo) to my contact at Fashion Museum  Bath.  This
reflects an opinion that they should know about.

Here is what I have to contribute about being able to *SEE* the Lace in
Fashion exhibit:

Where have all my lace conservation messages of the past 20+ years  gone?
Does everyone skip over them?  Please let me know.  On  January 17th, I
announced the Lace in Fashion exhibit on Arachne in a letter to  an Australian
planning a trip to the U.K.  It got no comments, so I sent it  a second time.


More often than I'd like to remember, I've suggested that Arachne  members
going to big lace events and exhibits should take a flashlight  (American
name) or torch (British name) that fits in a purse or pocket.  I carry a 4
inch long one at all times, and it is used in dark  places quite often.  I
thank this little beam of light in museums,  like the Victoria and Albert.
Many
objects are exhibited in a dim  setting.  Suddenly, something that you
never would imagine shines through  - jewels, beads, sequins, textures, even
lovely colors and design details  in fashions.  But also, intricately-carved
woods, and metals and  glass with cut and etched designs.

Museum guards have never stopped me.  I shine light on the  objects
briefly, sometimes gathering others in a gallery around me so they can  share
the
experience.  With security what it has become in recent years,  there is the
chance you will have to leave a very large purse in a secure  place at the
museum's entrance.   I dress like a professional -  in a suit with pockets
for necessary items I'll need in a museum, like a  torch.

It would be nice if someone in the UK would interview museum  personnel -
at several museums - to learn what is  allowed and then write an article
about this for The Lace Guild's  quarterly bulletin.

Textiles, in particular, suffer greatly from continuous exposure to  light,
and the lace exhibit at the Fashion Museum Bath will be up for  12 months.
Most of you have been reading my conservation advice for years  and know
they are being sensible to the extreme.

Another small treasure to carry would be a small magnifier.  If you do  not
have one with a light, hold the magnifier in one hand and the flash
light/torch in the other when looking at displays in cases that you peer down
into.

Like all conservation-related advice - rehearse at home - in a  room that
is not well illuminated.

May I suggest you make this a subject for discussion at your lace group
meetings?

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

April 12, 2017 Letter from Jane in Hampshire, UK

Just back from Bath, a 70 mile, 2 hour journey each way, so rather  tired.
But I don’t remember seeing any comment here on the ‘Lace in Fashion’
exhibition, although I know lacemakers have been to see it.

.. it was a  bit of a let down. The exhibition was fairly small, about
30-40 dresses, and it  focused mainly on machine made lace, and on recent
(1950's onwards) and current  fashions.

.. The first display unit contained a lace pillow with a lovely piece  of
Beds made recently by Dawson, I can’t remember the first name but I wondered
if it was a relative of Miss Dawson. There were some lovely old gloves
embellished with embroidery and metallic lace, but I couldn’t make out the
lace.  I had the same problem with the man’s tunic. It was decorated with
blackwork and  trimmed with a very narrow border of lace, an early work of
1620-1650 (I’m not  very good at dates so this could be quite wrong). The
parchment
lace tissue  dress was also on display.

It seemed to me that handmade lace was  presented as an incredibly
expensive fabric and that it was very quickly  replaced by machine made lace.
The
next display unit moved on to Jacquard,  Leavers and Raschel, etc, machine
made lace gowns. There was nothing about the  collars, berthas, flounces, caps
and so on that were fashionable for decades.  (Just one cap with lappets on
display). There was a hand made Irish crochet  dress, a dress decorated with
Blonde, and a more recent outfit included a Bucks  Point collar which I
could hardy make out, but nothing that really represented  the hey-day of lace
in fashion.

About half the exhibition was made up of recent designers, such as
Hartnett, Amies, Lagerfield and so on, but none of these used hand made lace.
There was a sparkly evening gown worn by the Queen Mother and a sculptured
mini-dress from the recent James Bond Spectre film.

There was a  beautiful dress, believed to have been worn by Queen
Charlotte, wife of George  III, empire style, diaphanous fine white lace over
a silk
under gown and with a  short train. Unfortunately it was almost impossible
to see the lace because of  the dim lighting. And this was a problem
throughout the exhibition. Time and  again, I couldn't see the lace. Also, I
was
looking 

[lace] Any new Lace Books to Review?

[Jeriames]

I am writing for the May 1 edition of the New England Lace Group's  
newsletter.  Are there any new lace books - preferably in English  - that I 
should 
review?  I rely on private letters giving  me information - in order to 
write articles and reviews that  are timely and may not yet be known to 
lacemakers.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Anniversary ideas for a small guild?

[Jeriames]

Dear Martha,

On March 23rd, and again today, I sent you long private messages to  help
you with lace public relations and celebrations.  Your address is  Comcast,
and I am not sure you are receiving mail from AOL.  If you  are not, please
request someone you know to be a go-between, and I'll  resend my letters
through her.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
---

In a message dated 4/10/2017 12:28:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ma...@comcast.net writes:

We’re ..  a small guild, and some .. members are not able to be as active
as they’d  like.  We’d still like to do something to acknowledge our
(non-zero)  anniversary as a charter member of IOLI.  Can .. you share little
things  we could do that would be warm, welcoming, cheerful and celebratory?
Do
.. you  have special traditions you have developed for this annual
celebration?   How do you mark this day as special?

Martha Osgood, Eugene,  Oregon

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[lace] Fashion Museum Bath - Lace Designing Opportunity

[Jeriames]

In its newsletter today, The Fashion Museum Bath invites people to use  
their *simple design tool* to create and share your own lace pattern.  When  
you have finished your design it will be added to their lace design  gallery.  
I think you could venture to take this further, if you have  designed 
something incorporating wearable lace on a garment.  You'd have to  write 
directly to them, of course.  
 
What a nice opportunity, especially for those who are usually  
self-effacing (I'm not good enough) and have never thought their lace  
designing skills 
would be collected by a museum.  Please think about  this.  Do any of your 
non-lace-making friends have anything in a museum  collection?  Probably not. 
 Get some "bragging rights" for  future lace demonstration activities.  You 
may access  several links at:
 
/www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/lace
 
Please - one of our experts - provide some further instructions  for our 
lacemakers who do not understand the very limited instructions  on the 
museum's site.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lecture on Lace Hand Fans in Chicago, April 26-30, 2017

[Jeriames]

There is a meeting of the Fan Association of North America in Chicago,  
April 26 to 30, 2017.
 
Here is part of the announcement I found in the April issue of Maine  
Antique Digest (monthly newspaper).
 
"Highlightswill include viewing exquisite fans from the collections of  
the Art Institute of Chicago, the Field Museum, and the Chicago History  
Museum.  Lectures on Imperial China treasures, ivory and the law, and lace  
fans will be held, and the use of fans in Tai Chi will be demonstrated.
 
"In addition, a members' fan sale will offer extraordinary antique fans,  
along with other unusual and interesting fans in all price ranges, which will 
be  followed by a fun charity fan auction to benefit the organization's 
educational  outreach efforts.
 
"New members may join by visiting Fan Association of N.A.'s website:   
http://fanassociation.org.
 
This organization also has a Facebook at "Hand Fan Collectors"."
 
This event might be of interest to lacemakers in the Chicago area, or  
perhaps someone would like to write about it for a Chicago area guild's  
newsletter.  
 
Could it be that someone who is a member of International Organization of  
Lace will be the speaker???
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Lace Dress by Isaac Mizrahi on QVC for Inspiration

[Jeriames]

Almost everywhere, there is a way to shop from home using your  computer; 
in this case -  _www.qvc.com_ (http://www.qvc.com) 
 
Today, there is a very reasonably priced lace dress (cover up for a swim  
suit?) by Isaac Mizrahi.  If you select A288082 to view, it is possible  to 
see a video presentation even when the dress is not being  shown on your TV.  
 
I cannot comment on the quality until I receive the black one  ordered.  Am 
thinking that on my elderly "figure" it will be in  better taste to wear 
lightweight black tights, and a pair of  black patent leather shoes in the 
closet will finish off the  look.  When one goes to a special occasion in the 
U.S., there is usually a  need for a cover up to ward off air conditioning 
drafts, so I'll pair with a  lightweight jacket with sleeves to cover arm 
"wings".
 
The challenge:  How long would it take for you (or even a  group) to 
reproduce this dress - using bobbin lace  techniques?  
 
I am thinking of those very complex lace designs in some of our  lace books!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Making lace relevant to the 21st C. - shoe jewelry

[Jeriames]

Thank you, Susan, for this memo.  What I found interesting is  that the 
Italian artist is using paper products.  I very  well remember the snafu at the 
OIDFA Caen Congress, when the coach that was to  pick up people housed in 
the center of the city "forgot" us.  It was cloudy  and soon we were drenched 
by rain, and without umbrellas.   Finally, a coach arrived and we were on 
our way (though very late to  arrive).  The coach driver did not bring us to 
a door protected from the  rain, but dropped us off about a half a city 
block from the "concert  hall" door in a place where we stepped down into an 
ankle-high "body of  water".  The 4 ladies from Slovenia, dressed from 
head-to-toe in  lace, had to step into that.  Ilska was there, and will  
remember.
 
How horrible for lace shoes!  This Congress was organized by a  man.  And 
as a man, it seemed he had no idea what classy  lace-loving women might wear 
to a banquet.  The literature  had said to wear our best laces.  We entered 
a venue "called a concert  hall" that was more like a gymnasium.  We sat in 
folding chairs that had  hinges lethal to laces.
 
Lace conservation lessons learned?  I surely hope so.  Be  careful what you 
spend your money on.  Remember that I've counseled to  carry vulnerable 
laces and put them on at your destination.  Do you  remember what I wrote about 
parchment lace from the 1600s last month?   Very little has survived, 
because it could not be wet cleaned.
 
Susan mentioned a recent post from Arlene about lace shoes.  It  seems that 
memo never got to my inbox, Arlene.  Devon tells me I must  specifically 
address her in my postings to Arachne, or she does not receive  them.  We both 
use AOL.  So, now AOL does not talk to AOL.  What  a mess the techies have 
created.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
--
In a message dated 3/15/2017 4:00:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:
 

To Arlene's recent point about lace shoes, how about lace spats?   Before 
you conjure the Monopoly guy's feet, visit _www.bodyfurnitures.com_ 
(http://www.bodyfurnitures.com)   &  check out the "shoe jewellery" section.  
Yes, I 
tried on #4!   Exquisite but beyond my current budget.  When I finish 
working my lace  exhibit samples, this looks like a do-able project & one I 
would 
wear in a  heartbeat, especially if it's embellished with lace!  Is this a 
case of Gil  Dye's shoe roses meeting lace spats?  Hope so.  Sincerely, Susan 
 Hottle USA. 

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Re: [lace] Lacemaking - Eye Surgery Seems Successful

[Jeriames]

First, let me thank you all for your concern in connection with my eye  
surgery for a cataract and astigmatism on Thursday.  I did not think  you'd see 
the footnote in a note I sent about young people who make lace.   I take 
medical issues lightly.  Years ago, I had successful Lasik  surgery on both 
eyes - one for reading and one for distance.  Now, my  reading 
(close-distance) eye needed tweeking.  The most painful part was  paying $1,500 
for the 
implant to replace my natural lens!  (Could buy a lot  of lace books.)  
Cataract covered by insurance, but not the  lens.  I stayed in a hotel near the 
eye 
hospital, was checked Friday  morning, and drove home.  No pain.  Today's 
vision is better than  yesterday's.  
 
Being a Girl Scout, I wanted to take care of blurred vision problems in  
preparation for going to the Belgian lace celebration in 2018 - the  100th 
anniversary after the end of World War I.  I expect there will  be an 
acknowledgement of how lacemakers were saved from starvation  during the war by 
the 
Commission for Relief in Belgium, headed by Herbert C.  Hoover, who later was 
elected President of the U.S.
 
The address Devon gave yesterday is most inspiring.  I'll be  giving the 
Brooklyn group an invitation to contact me if they are  having difficulties 
finding lace books and things like that, because I belonged  to their 
predecessor - The Lace Guild of New York.  This became my  lace foundation, and 
you 
have all benefited from my  sharing lecture information from Helene von 
Rosenstiel, who was a  Brooklyn lace conservator with a museum clientele.  She 
would arrive via  subway at meetings dragging a huge plastic bag full of 
distressed  laces.  Then, she would tell us how they came to be that way, and 
what  would be necessary to save - or often be unable to save - them.  
 
One young lacemaker Devon is encouraging mentioned enrolling  in an FIT 
textile conservation program.  I found there were  museum lectures about 
conserving and restoring textiles/embroideries/tapestries,  but not much about 
lace.  Perhaps it will be possible to prop up this  student with some 
experience and a bibliography, since I have collected books  (both good and 
bad) on 
the subject.  It can be very frustrating  to a young person when she is 
trying to learn something obscure about  lace.  It is what we on Arachne have 
been somewhat able to  overcome.  Please share lace knowledge with the young.  
The  address from Devon:
 
http://textileartscenter.com/blog/brooklyn-based-artists-launch-nyc-lace-gui
ld/ 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
In a message dated 3/9/2017 10:45:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
devonth...@gmail.com writes:

In fact,  there is an uprising in interest among the millennials in 
Brooklyn.
...the  Brooklyn Lace Guild is attracting
young women who are for the most part  graduates of the art and design 
schools
in New York and work in creative  jobs. 

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Re: [lace] Lacemaking

[Jeriames]

Dear Ann,
 
You can always look to see what The Lace Guild in England is offering to  
children - on their website.  And, I am sure they would appreciate  patterns, 
supplies, teachers - for the publications produced for their  use.
 
Sometimes our members do not appreciate how important all forms of public  
relations are.  I loved the story from South Africa about taking  lacemaking 
supplies to India.  You do not have to look very far to  see opportunities 
to "sing" about lace.  We Arachnes are a small group  in relationship to the 
world's population, and all of us need to...paste on  smiles and wear laces 
daily.  I do.  And they  always "break the ice" (which loosely means 
silence is broken and a  positive conversation is begun - for those of you do 
not 
have a Winter  season).  Happened just yesterday in the long line at the 
post  office.  I was wearing a "corsage" of 3 colorful lace flowers on  my coat 
- from Czech Republic, Turkey, and Germany.  (Ilske - please note;  the 
German one was made by you.)
 
It is early morning here, and I'm off to cataract and astigmatism surgeries 
 on one eye 60 miles from home.  Even today, I'll be promoting lace in some 
 way or other by wearing it.  Everyone:  Try it.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 3/8/2017 1:35:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ann.humphr...@talktalk.net writes:

I told a  new acquaintance that I made lace. Lace making is for old ladies 
she replied.  If young people feel that way the art of lacemaking will 
disappear.  
Ann
UK

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Re: [lace] Lace in India - 2

[Jeriames]

Of course, I was writing about Sulochana in my previous post.  She was  
delightful.  I shopped for bobbins and lace supplies for her here and in  the 
U.K.  She sent lovely hand-made Indian treasures in return.  When  her 
under-age-for-college son received a full scholarship to a  university here in 
Maine, I drove there to meet him and his father and took  them by car to see 
the Atlantic Ocean at Arcadia National Park - where  Cadillac Mountain meets 
the sea.  The rocky heavily  forested Maine landscape near the Atlantic 
probably was  very different from the landscape near the Indian Ocean!  I  
offered to be a Maine contact in case of emergency, a  role appropriately taken 
over by her son's roommate's  mother.  Sulochana's son went on to graduate 
school elsewhere in the  U.S.  The family moved to another India location some 
time after  this.  (I am deliberately leaving out details.)  
 
Unfortunately, I have lost contact with Sulochana in the years since.   The 
memory of her is strong; always sparked by the little treasures she  sent 
here to her American Fairy Godmother.  She enriched my life.  I  like to 
imagine she is now teaching a granddaughter how to make lace.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Lace in India

[Jeriames]

Dear Alison,
 
There is a long history of nuns making bobbin lace in Asia.  They went  
there as missionaries from European nations.  I have a  Mechlin lace-trimmed 
handkerchief beautifully handmade in the early  20th C. that was probably made 
in Asia.  It is a very convincing copy of an  18th Century lace, shown on 
page 162 of Lady Emily Reigate's Illustrated Guide  to Lace - border of 
basket of flowers alternating with huntsman and  reindeer.  After considerable 
study, several experts concluded that  this copy could have been made in Asia.
 
There are many clues as to the possibility of nuns teaching the finer  
points of lace making in Asia, but it is generally not documented very  well 
and 
would have been very controversial in Europe in the period when  handmade 
bobbin lace was "going out of business".  The wealthy had  connections with 
lace dealers, and could have handmade laces made wherever  they could be 
completed at the least expense.
 
My handkerchief is too small in size to be an 18th C. "flirting  device" 
(clue 1).  It has an Art Deco-style monogram on the  linen (clue 2).  The lace 
is made to turn corners, whereas the  original lace would have been 
gathered at the corners (clue 3).  The  lace is sewn on by a sewing machine 
(clue 
4).  Etc.  
 
This has been studied in a museum using the best possible  magnification 
and photographic equipment, and it has been compared to  the original 18th C. 
lace.  Most collectors would have discarded  the handkerchief, but I felt 
young inexperienced scholars of the future can  learn a lot from examples like 
it.  It was offered as a gift to the museum  - for study purposes.  After 
over a year with no action, I asked that it be  returned.  Museums tend to be 
short-sighted, to the detriment of  future research.
 
Early in Arachne's history, we had a lacemaker from India who had a  
Master's Degree from a London university.  Her children were in  university.  
She 
was employed by one of India's largest corporations.   She made lace as a 
hobby.  So, technically, handmade lace is made in  India.  If it is 
"manufactured", it is probably made by machine  now, with perhaps a few 
exceptions 
(the same as everywhere in the  world).  From time-to-time we do read about 
Asian lacemakers - in  our Guild magazines.  Japanese and Korean lacemakers 
attend OIDFA  Congresses, and there is a good exchange of information and 
teachers in  place.  You have to consider the "economic" impact on womens'  
activities of this kind in some nations.
 
Your question was brief, but there is much to consider.  Is  this helpful 
information? 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 

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Re: [lace] Victoria's Gown - Correction - 2

[Jeriames]

This is a repeat from a memo I wrote April 3, 2011, in which I explained  
Queen Victoria's height.
 
To properly protect the gowns of Victoria that have been displayed at  
Kensington Palace for many years, *individual mannequins were custom made  - to 
fit the clothing.*  It was then that textile professionals  realized that 
she had lost an astonishing 4" in height in her later years, a  fact that 
seemed to never have been noted by her personal physician or anyone  else.  In 
1837 she was believed to have been 4' 11".  Her late 1890's  dresses (near 
the end of her life) suggest a height of 4' 7" or at most 4'  8" (this would 
depend on petticoats and shoe heel height).  These last  dresses had a waist 
measurement of 46 inches.
 
This information is on page 171 in the book "In Royal Fashion - The  
Clothes of Princess Charlotte of Wales and Queen Victoria 1796-1901" by Kay  
Staniland - published by the Museum of London in 1997,  0-904818-77-2.  This is 
one of my favorite books about historic  costumes.  It is delicious to read 
and well illustrated with color  photographs.
 
Another research book is "Royal Honiton Lace" by Elsie Luxton and Yusai  
Fukuyama, published by Batsford in 1988, 0-7134-5764-3.  This one has very  
nice black and white photos of the wedding laces, christening robes, and other 
 lace items belonging to the Royal Family.  It contains a short history  of 
Honiton Lace.  It also has a 10-page copy of the Act of 1697, meant  to 
prohibit the importation of foreign lace.
 
There are 85 memos about Queen Victoria in Arachne  archives.  
_http://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Queen+Victoria=lace%40arachne.com_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Queen+Victoria=lace@arachne.com) 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
 
In a message dated 3/6/2017 4:15:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lacel...@frontier.com writes:

Tonight  I saw a program about filming 'Victoria'.  They had the wedding  
gown
on display and showed closeups of it. They did mention that Victoria  was 
4'8" tall. There has been a wide variety of laces used in the collars of  the 
servants. 
On the dark dresses, they show up very well.
Alice  in Oregon 

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[lace] Lace Guild Magazine Lost in Post Office Fire?

[Jeriames]

Has anyone in New England received this quarter's Lace yet?  It was  
received in New Jersey last week.   
 
You will recall my post office was destroyed by fire March 21st.
 
Need to know if a call to England, requesting a replacement copy, is  
necessary. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] WOLDS LACEMAKERS LACE MEETING/AGM 11th March 2017

[Jeriames]

We love to know what lacemakers in different countries are doing to share  
lace with the public.  Sometimes, other groups are inspired to arrange  
similar events, based on information shared.  This is a thank you to  Maureen 
for always sending us a notice about lace being made in Hull, England,  by the 
Wolds Lacemakers.
 
Enjoyed reading the website.  Would like to know the date of the  article 
about lace for the High Sheriff. 
 
The address was given as _www.woldsmakers.co.uk_ 
(http://www.woldsmakers.co.uk)   
 
It should be _www.woldslacemakers.co.uk_ (http://www.woldslacemakers.co.uk) 
 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 3/1/2017 4:28:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
maur...@roger.karoo.co.uk writes:

ORGANISATION:   Wolds Lacemakers

LACE EXHIBITION:  City of Culture -  Made in Hull

FREE ENTRANCE Exhibition of handmade  lace made by our members 1pm to
3.30p.m.

Website: www.woldsmakers.co.uk

TWITTER: @woldslacemakers

FACEBOOK:   Wolds  Lacemakers

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[lace] Lace in Fashion Exhibit in Bath - Shared Lace Viewing Opportunities

[Jeriames]

There should be someone with public relations experience telling us on a  
regular basis what is happening in the U.K. that has a lace connection.   
This is a recommendation that needs attention by people in official  positions 
at The Lace Guild, England.  We know and appreciate you  are unpaid 
volunteers. This is an easy-to-understand  request.   
 
There is still very little information about the Lace in Fashion  exhibit - 
outside the U.K.  You will remember I wrote an  article for Arachne and The 
New England Lace Group just before the  exhibit opened.  Work on the lace 
collection in Bath began 3 years  ago.  The exhibit was officially announced 
in England last year,  but no British lace expert Arachne subscriber had 
sent the  news to our approximately 1,000 members!  
 
This reminds of the wonderful In Fine Style 2013 exhibit of  portraits 
owned by Queen Elizabeth II, accompanied by objects in the portraits  
(including 
lace).  That became very popular on Arachne once  everyone with an interest 
in lace history learned about it on June 21st.  I  came across this 
exhibit's information through an antiques  publication.  It had not been shared 
with Arachne.  No one in  England had thought it of interest to lace makers?  
 
Information about 2017's Lace in Fashion exhibit came from a  friend in 
Pennsylvania.  It was necessary to write to the government  in Bath, contact 
for information about The Fashion Museum.  I have only now  received a letter, 
some weeks later, asking ME for information!   When  the exhibit 
announcement was written for you, only old stock photos were  available.  A 
g**gl* 
search provided little of special  educational interest.  The photo of the 1660 
silver  tissue gown I chose to write about - with  parchment lace attached 
- was found in a Museum of  Costume/Assembly Rooms Guide (old name for 
museum) on my shelves of costume  books. 

 
With thanks to Jill Hawkins, who serves as Webmaster for The New  England 
Lace Group, you may now see that dress in 2 photos.  By  special arrangement, 
Jill has put them in the Articles section of the Home Page  at 
_www.nelg.us_ (http://www.nelg.us)  You will  find Articles in the LEFT 
column of 
options.  (Just below Articles is Book  Reviews.  You may see these, with 
photos of the book jackets, by selecting  that option.  Perhaps you will wish 
to 
put printed copies of the reviews in  books you own - including In Fine 
Style.)
 
This is an example of free international cooperation between people who  
love lace.  Jill lived in New England for a while.  She has returned  to 
England, and is still a most treasured volunteer - sharing with  us.   

 
I have been searching weekly to see what is being said about Lace in  
Fashion, Bath, and came across a Blog to share.  Though I'm not a  member of 
Facebook, it was possible to click on Not Now and watch  it.  Good preparation 
for any group of lace people planning a  trip to Bath to see this exhibit:
 
https://www.facebook.com/FashionMuseum/videos/vb.178268647365/10154546762367
366/?type=2
 
Following is an exhibit review that may be of interest.
 
http://ursulawrites.blogspot.com/2017/02/review-lace-in-fashion-bath-fashion
.html
 
**This Blog's author wished she could have had more information about  
lace!**  Perhaps it would be a good service to write a one-page guide to  lace, 
for The Fashion Museum's visitors?  I wrote one for a  lace exhibit in New 
Jersey over 25 years ago.  It was handed to every  person who entered the 
gallery, a bobbin lace maker was always present, and I  was always available 
and explaining laces during the hours the museum was  open.  AT encouraged 
me to do this, even during business hours,  because it was a community 
service.  
 
You will remember I was told there would be no exhibit catalogue in  Bath.  
This is symptomatic of the failure to find sponsors for important  
needlework and fashion exhibits.  
 
Fifty-two percent of adults in the U.S. are women.  I suspect  similar 
statistics in other nations.  We need to be asking large  employers to sponsor 
such things - the way they support educational activities  of interest to men 
and children.  Silicon Valley comes to  mind.  In the sidebar of the above 
Blog is a write-up  about little-known Ada Lovelace that may be of interest 
to today's  women of science and technology.  In the mid-1800s, she wrote an 
 algorithm intended to be processed by machine.  She is considered by  some 
to be the world's first computer programmer.  You'll have to wade  through 
some sensationalism, but this is a fascinating story.
 
Seven ladies in Maine, where little known about lace, have a one-page  
2-sides (folded like a book) handout that provides lace information,  and an 
opportunity for people to read where they can find more lace  contacts.  Our 
group pays no dues, and we have shared in a  variety of ways, including the 
preparation and printing of this little  demonstration aid.  Sharing is how 

[lace] Guild Magazines Lost in Fire? Public Building Safety

[Jeriames]

There is a very comprehensive library and information collection in my  
home.
 
Our local post office and contents were completely destroyed by  fire this 
week.  Monday was an American holiday.  Apparently, the fire  had a good 
smoldering start in the attic over the weekend.  About  9 am Tuesday, a clerk 
saw a ceiling tile fall and the building filled with  smoke.  Soon, there 
were huge flames bursting through the roof.   It is under investigation, but 
gossip is the attic where all the high tech  wiring, heating, air conditioning 
equipment, etc. were located, had  no smoke detector!  The building was 
opened, new, 7 years ago.
 
I need to know if any lace/embroidery magazines were destroyed, in order to 
 keep my library complete.
 
If you live in the U.S., and you received any lace or embroidery guild  
magazines/bulletins last week - or this - please contact me  privately with 
delivery information.
 
What can we learn from this?  All of you are most precious,  and hopefully 
you have working smoke detectors and carbon monoxide  detectors in your 
homes.  If you spend a lot of time in a  building elsewhere, inquire about 
safety features in place.  Always be  aware of building exits, and confirm they 
are not locked (they may be alarmed,  so ask and hope for an honest answer).  
 
I once followed a fire exit sign at a crowded registration area  of an 
Embroiderers' Guild National Seminar in Louisville  Kentucky. The staircase led 
down to a dead end in the basement  !   I mean a concrete wall, and no way 
out.  Makes one  wonder about local occupancy permits and fire department  
inspections. 
 
For the safety of everyone, if you are involved in selecting a meeting  
place and conference rooms, be sure you walk the exits before you sign a  
contract.  ALWAYS.  If you are at a lodging place, be sure you know  where the 
exits are, and it is a good idea to have a purse-size flashlight  handy.  
Stairs usually have emergency lighting, but what if it is not  working?  I 
request a room on a low floor in very large hotels, knowing it  will be easier 
to 
exit if elevators cannot be used.  In restaurants, sit  facing exits and 
look for other exit options.  All these precautions  were taught to me at 
safety meetings held at AT over 25 years ago.   You've seen the news reports 
from around the world.  Be observant.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Point Ground laces - research book

[Jeriames]

The Librarian/Book Reviewer will weigh in, having read correspondence  to 
date on this subject.  There is an OIDFA publication: Point  Ground Lace - A 
Comparative Study, 2001, 57 pages, ISBN 0 95406960-9, in  
English/French/German, printed in England.  Let me share what prompted the  
work that went 
into this publication, because I believe a few of the  participants may have 
answers you seek.  Following is directly from the  book's introduction which 
written by Pamela Nottingham in 2000, and has  been shortened:
 
"In 1988, at the OIDFA Congress in Frankfurt, a meeting was arranged for  
delegates, ideas were discussed and enthusiasts with knowledge of their own  
point ground lace were keen to participate.Everything had to be done by  
correspondence, often in an unfamiliar language, time had to be found to  
study lace and formulate answers to many questions.  The results were  
presented in the centre pages of the OIDFA Bulletins 1993-94.  This  
information 
was well received and it was suggested that it be enlarged and  published as 
a reference book
 
"More people agreed to join the group, until  there were 25  
contributors investigating 23 different point ground laces.  A research  
document is 
rarely complete; other European countries have similar lace but  
unfortunately it has not been possible to find people to provide the necessary  
details."  (Followed by a request for more contributions.)
 
"Only towards the end of the work are we able to see how each lace is  
different and has features that give it special interest in research on Point  
Ground lace."
 
This book contains a list of the 25 participants, many  recognizable.  It 
offers opportunities to compare techniques.   It contains a long list of 
books used during the study.
 
There is information about prickings, threads, working diagrams of similar  
features from Belgium, France, Czech Republic, Denmark, England, Austria,  
Italy, Sweden, etc., comparisons of tallies, many photos of fillings.   
There is a long list of museums with Point Ground laces, the most being in  
Belgium.  Other museums listed are in Czech Republic, Denmark, England,  
France, 
Finland, Germany, Slovenia, Sweden, Switzerland.
 
Suggestion:  There is no need to reinvent what has already been  done.  
Start with this 2001 book, and contact the experts and  museums.  There is 
probably a lot that has developed since its publication,  and they should have 
been able to date some Point Ground laces using new  technology.
 
Book can be borrowed from the IOLI Library, listed under OIDFA as  author, 
number B-318.
 
Karen, please contact me directly if this book is of interest. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

In a message dated 2/16/2017 3:49:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
karenhthomp...@gmail.com writes:
 
It is  with great interest that I have followed the conversations about
Mechlin,  Valenciennes, Binche, etc. and am wondering if the conversation
can  continue with point ground. So far, I have not been able to find a  
date
(approximate) for the start of point ground laces. The closest I have  come
is late in the 1700s.   Karen

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Re: [lace] Lace dog (French Bulldogs)

[Jeriames]

Is this an unfortunate example of how lace history becomes  distorted?
 
The history associated with the French bulldogs, as explained in the second 
 web site, seems to be mis-leading.  French lacemakers fled to  England, 
because of religious persecution against non-Catholics in France.   Was there 
a reverse migration to Normandy?  If not, please regard the  article as a 
fairy tale ... and perhaps someone should tell the author of  
spencermanbullies, once we have hashed out the real history?  
 
Here is the questionable quote:  There is more than one theory  about how 
exactly the French bulldog originated in France.  The most  accepted theory 
is that when Normandy lace makers from England (sic) moved to  France to find 
work, they took smaller bulldogs along.  These small dogs  were actually 
rejects of the bulldog's breeders in England.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

 
In a message dated 2/15/2017 2:04:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
nhsmo...@cox.net writes:

While  watching the Westminster Dog Show they talked about a dog that was  
the
lacemakers dog. Please  see:
https://www.petcha.com/life-with-a-frenchie/
And
http://spencermanbullies.tripod.com/history-of-the-frenchie.html

Charlotte  in Georgia USA

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[lace] Dating Mechlin by Touch, Sight, Knowledge

[Jeriames]

"Repairs in vertical stacks, with a suspicious similar distance between the 
 stacks?"  I have a Point de Gaze lappet cap (more recent at about 150  
years), where there are difficult-to-see snags positioned opposite each  other 
when it is placed on my head.  These snags are right where  earrings might 
have been worn.  
 
Something to look for when studying lace is why there is any sign of  
repairs, especially on 1700s or earlier laces.  About 20 years ago,  when 
laying 
a lace on a magnifier and viewing it - enlarged - on an adjacent  computer 
became possible at The Metropolitan, I recall seeing repairs that  are not 
visible to the naked eye or less sophisticated methods of magnification  used 
up to that time.   
 
It is likely that new methods of dating will soon be utilized.  We  should 
be able to really identify threads from different sources and different  
places.  Soon we will have laces that have been carbon dated.  The  thread, 
that is.  One small step forward
 
Skilled lacemakers once did conservation/restoration by touch as well as  
sight.  The auction example, showing only one side of the lace, is why I  
recommend buying lace that you can examine - in person.  When you sit at a  
table with several similar old laces, there really are different  "feelings" to 
them. 
 
30 or more years ago, I remember Elizabeth Kurella digging into  her purse 
to find a loop (used by jewelers) so she could examine a  lace brought to 
her attention at an Embroiderers' Guild national  seminar.  We've advanced 
from that with vision aids.  Will we ever be  able to remotely "feel" lace with 
our finger tips as part of the  examination process? 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  
--
 
In a message dated 2/12/2017 12:54:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
lhal...@bytemeusa.com writes:

...The  date bothers me. However the clothwork and
the shapes of the motifs do fit  better with the mid 1700s than with the mid
1800s.  If it were a part  lace (with lumps on the wrong side) I would be 
not
surprised.  Mechlin/Droschel ground was used as a ground in the mid 1700s in
Brussels  part laces.  It would be added in vertical stripes. This piece
does  show repairs in vertical stacks, with a suspicious similar distance
between  the stacks. But without a photo of the wrong side, showing lumps  
where
motifs ended, I can't use that to explain the date.   Lorelei

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Re: [lace] lily lappet - pattern?

[Jeriames]

No practical purpose?
 
For formal occasions, lappets or a lappet cap framed the face.   Think of 
them as a frame.  
 
It appears to me that even in Medieval times people wore  caps.  In part, 
because of the difficulty of caring for their hair,  usually uncut.  
Especially washing it.  Not everyone had  servants.  In portraits, we see them 
at 
their best.  Even photos of  19th C. lacemakers lined up in small villages for 
the camera show an effort to  look as nice as possible for posterity.  
But...
 
Think back just a little.  Special ways of braiding the hair and  tucking 
it under something pretty and clean was a solution.  People  did not have hot 
water delivered by showers until post-World War 2.  They  rarely bathed, by 
our standards.  Hair care was labor-intensive.   Ladies wore hats when they 
went out of the home well into the mid-20th  C.  A turban style could cover 
it all !
 
If you wish to re-establish the wearing of lace lappets, caps and hats  - 
lace designers have written books containing instructions for making  them.  
Sounds like fun.  Best of all, you will be wearing  lace. 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

In a message dated 2/7/2017 5:48:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
j...@zoominternet.net writes:
 
I  can't
figure any practical purpose for them with or without a hat. They  should be
honored for their longevity, if nothing else. What other  non-jewelry 
ornament
has remained stylish for so long? Were separate lace  collars and cuffs 
around
as long as lappets?

Jean  Reardon

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Re: [lace] Honiton books by Susanne Thompson

[Jeriames]

Dear Alex,
 
All my precious old lace books, published before 1923, were the first  ones 
scanned for the University of Arizona site from here in Maine.   The books 
did not have to be cut up, and all of you have had the  convenience of being 
able to read them for nearly 20 years.  The only  fallout was binding 
damage from flattening some books.  They have  been repaired.  Worth sharing, 
since you all can read these in the  comfort of your homes!
 
Why would technology be creeping backwards?  Surely, there is a  
waywithout damaging a book?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
 
In a message dated 2/6/2017 11:43:27 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
alexstillw...@talktalk.net writes:

Having  managed to get Susanne Thompson's first Honiton book
printed-on-demand I  would like to get her Further Steps in Honiton Lace,
reprinted. However, in  order to do so a copy of her book has to be 
sacrificed
i.e. it has to be  cut up so that it can be scanned. Can anyone supply me 
with
a copy of the  book? You can have two copies of the reprinted book  as
replacement. Alex

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[lace] Learning about Point de Gaze from Laurie Waters

[Jeriames]

Supplementing Elizabeth Kurella's new book - Point de Gaze  - reviewed 
earlier today:
 
Lace lovers might like to subscribe to the  free Lace News at  
https://lacenews.net/   On the right there  is a "Follow Blog"; enter your 
email address 
in space provided.  Laurie  Waters selects from a broad range of eBay 
offerings, and presents her informed  observations.  An excellent way to learn 
lace identification in small  doses.  Photos can be enlarged with a click.  A 
week after  the auction ends, click on a line that looks like
http://tinyurl.com/j4klvae   
Sometimes a dealer sets a price, and there are no bids, or you will be able 
 to see the final price realized. 
 
At the July 16-22 2017 International Organization of Lace, Inc. convention  
in Pennsylvania, Laurie Waters will be teaching:  Introduction to the  
Belgian Needlelaces - Mixed in the mornings, and Lace History &  Identification 
in the afternoons (both Beginner to Advanced).
For details, select - 2017 IOLI Convention - in right column at:  
_www.internationalorganizationoflace.org_ 
(http://www.internationalorganizationoflace.org)   
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Review - Point de Gaze Brussels Needle Lace, by Elizabeth Kurella

[Jeriames]

Point de Gaze Brussels Needle Lace for Collectors and Lacemakers
By Elizabeth M. Kurella, Self-published, 2017, 168 pages, Soft Cover, $30;
ISBN 978-1-5323-2923-4

Use Subject line of this Review to find on eBay.Or, write to
_www.lacemerchant.com_ (http://www.lacemerchant.com)   address, which has not
yet been
updated to include a photo of this  book.

You may also find this review under Book Reviews at http://www.nelg.us/ ,
with a photo of  cover.
---


The first book of 2017 to arrive at the Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 is one that will be welcomed by lace collectors and curators, historians,
and  costume experts.

Did you ever wonder why more people do not know how to identify  lace?


Elizabeth Kurella's special brand of lace identification insight informs
each book she has written.  She counsels it is technique, not design, that
provides the means of identifying specific types of lace, which leads to the
assertion that as soon as a set of designs became popular, they were copied
in  whatever technique was available, including machine.

To explain the title of this book: Brussels needle lace was a precursor to
the Point de Gaze developed in about 1850, and manufactured until the early
 1900s:  a span of about 50 glorious years for this lace before
machine-made  laces finally won the lace "battle".

Judging from current auction offerings, quite a lot of  this stylish needle
lace is still available.  It is one of those  laces that, at its finest,
can (when closely studied) make one forget to  breathe.

To those who claim to be lace experts, it is of importance to  have the
ability to differentiate between Point de Gaze (Belgian) and other  refined
European laces, such as Alençon/Argentan/Point de  France (French), and
Burano/Point de Venise (Italian).

It is doubtful most people have ever considered the variety of Point de
Gaze laces produced.  Kurella has separated Point de Gaze into liberally
illustrated chapters:

oRecognizing (and making)
oClassic flat
oWith layers of petals
oWith special effects
oNovelties
oWith no mesh
oBlends and hybrids
oVery special
oAppendix: Plauen Museum folio

Photo captions generally include descriptions rather than simply  names,
because there was never a single authority that assigned names to types  of
lace.  As with all laces, the ability to personally touch it with  your
fingers and study both sides of these laces under magnification adds
exponentially to knowledge.

If you love the genteel needle-made laces of the past, this  book teaches a
lot about how to view and enhance your appreciation  of all of them - in
addition to Point de Gaze - using a method of study  that Kurella has
developed for her lace identification books.  A  combination of design,
techniques
and skills converge to create the  finest-of-the-fine.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Dog pattern(s)

[Jeriames]

Dear Helen,
 
I thought I'd tackle blackwork, since it is an embroidery technique that  
looks like lace from a distance.  But, I have over 2,000 embroidery books,  
and it would help to know more.  Do you need information about technique,  
filling and shading patterns?  I have had 2 outstanding teachers in  the past 
50 years - one on the East Coast of America (Ilse Altherr), one on the  West 
(Jane Zimmerman).  They both are EGA certified, but in most instances  have 
stuck to the traditional uses of the blackwork technique that became  most 
popular in Tudor times.  They have each written a stack of books  and 
provided some modern designs, but I remember no dogs.  
 
In the first 5 pages of my inventory, I found 7 books about  blackwork!  
So, there are a lot in my library.  In recent years, I've  seen modern 
interpretations of blackwork in other books, particularly from  the UK and 
Australia.
 
What is your dog project about?  What period in history?   What breeds of 
dogs?  How you will be using the dog patterns?  
 
I do not remember any fully-dedicated dogs-in-lace books amongst my  
1,000-plus lace books, which probably means someone will tell you about one dog 
 
pattern at a time, most probably published in various guild bulletins.  Our  
lacemakers would probably appreciate answers to the questions I've  asked.
 
Have you looked for dogs in children's books, coloring books and  cartoons? 
 If you are an experienced stitcher/lacemaker, you can draw an  outline of 
a dog, and fill it with either blackwork or lace.  You'd make  something 
more original that way, but probably described as "adapted"  from
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
In a message dated 1/31/2017 6:03:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hcl...@mac.com writes:
 
I am  looking for dog patterns in both lace and blackwork. If you know of 
any then  could you please let me know how to find it/them. Helen (West coast 
of  mainland Canada)

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Re: [lace] "Lace in Fashion" 2017 exhibit in Bath England

[Jeriames]

Thank you Nancy, for taking time to research this, and  for providing:
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:1660s_court_dress.JPG
 
>From the photo of the 1660 dress without lace, it was possible to locate a  
color photo of it - with lace attached - in a book here.  It is  simply 
described as "handmade lace".  My description: a long, wide (about 5  inches), 
rectangular lace collar of perhaps assembled squares of lace,  attached 
around the bodice's wide neckline and not meeting in the front but  perhaps to 
within 6 inches of it.  It has a "Van Dyke"-like pointy  edge.  It is not as 
refined as the falling collars with elaborate  scalloped edges worn by 
Charles I in the 1630s.  There are  lace ruffles of a different design attached 
to puffed elbow length  linen sleeves worn under the much shorter puffed 
sleeves of silver  tissue.  Women at this time wore garments that could be 
washed  under expensive fabric gowns that could not be cleaned.
 
I hope we will see this lace in some detail in the next Lace Guild  
magazine from England.  Hopefully, one of our experts will have  done an 
in-depth 
analysis of these laces.
 
Nancy recommended the 1900 book by Mrs. F. Nevill Jackson, "A History  of 
Hand-made Lace" (republished by Dover).  It mentions under a heading of  
Guipure:  "Lately the vellum, or cartisane padding, has been replaced with  
cotton thread called Cannetille, as it was found that the card stiffening was  
not sufficiently durable:  it shrivelled (sic) up with heat, was  reduced to 
pulp by damp, and would not wash."   
 
A full reading of page 163 offers some very interesting information about  
the widely used term - Guipure, starting in the Middle Ages.   Previous 
correspondence removed, per Avital's request to trim.  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center   

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[lace] Strive to remain beautifully linked, like lace threads

[Jeriames]

In the past year there have been some mis-guided  actions taking place in 
guilds to which we belong.  You  are invited to join me in a message to all 
in our lace family - inside  and outside Arachne:
 
Being divisive is not healthy for life, love - or  lace.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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[lace] Promoting Lace - "Lace in Fashion" exhibit in Bath

[Jeriames]

Did anyone read my reply to Robin in Canberra on the  9th that included the
"Lace in Fashion" exhibit that will be at the  Fashion Museum in Bath
England for a year?  You'd think there would be  some excitement.

http://bit.ly/2j7AG9Z

_https://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/news/fashion-museum-bath-stage-%E2%80%98lac
e-fashion%E2%80%99-exhibition_
(https://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/news/fashion-museum-bath-stage-‘lace-fashi
on’-exhibition)

No pictures?  Does anyone have a website address of a photo  of the 1660
"silver tissue dress made from fine silk, woven with silver thread  and
trimmed with parchment lace"?  This is described as "a rare  survival of
parchment
lace, a delicate fabric made using tiny strips of  parchment or paper,
wrapped in silk and incorporated into the design of the  bobbin-made lace."

A g**gl* search for "parchment lace" brought me to a  craft magazine.  Our
own archives brought me to parchment lace  prickings/patterns.  I would like
to know more about this:  the thread  and how it was made, the bobbin lace
technique, and what the reference to  "parchment lace" really means.  It
would be an interesting  subject to discuss on Arachne, and for you to share
with your lace  friends.

My source for this lace news was an American.  Did 1,000  of our members
hear about this exhibit already?  Is my AOL  service so bad that I did not
receive the news earlier, and you did?   The article says they had assistance
from some expert volunteers from  *The Lace Guild*.  Are those volunteers
reading this memo?   Article also mentions Australian input.

It is troublesome that after 20 years of trying to "show by  example" when
it comes to distributing lace news as soon as possible, I have  failed.

Efforts to bring more Arachne members into the "lace conversation"  has
bombed.

There is no viable industry for handmade lace in the 21st  C.  It relies on
those of us with a love for this textile to promote it in  whatever
platforms exist, or ones we create.  Thank you again, Liz, for  Arachne.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] RE: lace-digest V2017 #11 Lace Identification

[Jeriames]

Dear Liz and others with posting problems,

First, I wish to share that I called AOL techs three times between
Saturday and Monday about a new problem, and to complain about undelivered
mail.
All were in the Philippines.  It is not a good way to reach a manager  with
my complaints about undelivered mail.  I demanded an American manager  call
me this morning, but the phone does not ring

My senior center guru who comes to the house when computer problems arise,
has strongly recommended I not use Windows 10.  And, I can see all  these
funny characters in Liz's and other's memos.  It is getting  worse and worse.


Avital: reference to a lace-digest number on the subject line does not give
 a way to look up our lace subjects.  These features are not good for  our
Arachne archives going forward!!  (I have added Lace Identification to  this
memo of mine.

Liz mentioned the adaptations lacemakers made to 19th C. laces, a  subject
Devon introduced a few days ago.  A long time ago, I wrote to  Arachne how
difficult it would be to satisfactorily identify 20th C. laces -  since many
of you are creatively branching out and mixing lace  techniques in your
work.  This creativity is a very good thing, but -  whenever possible - please
write about your laces and how they came about,  whenever possible to keep
with your collected laces.  Your own  documentation will be welcomed - in the
future.

Whenever I trim messages, I use ... to indicate text has been removed,
as you can see in Liz's message below this.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
--


In a message dated 1/16/2017 9:57:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
lizl...@bigpond.com writes:

I have a  new computer, and am doing the mail though the Windows 10 section
in
it.  (Yuk!) I am gradually finding out how things work.
Grr!! Computers!  😊 Still, they keep us in touch, so I must not
complain!!

As to  the changes in various laces over time – well, they did not have
books
to  tell them  what to do, and how to do it, -- and few of them could
read,
anyway, - so they just invented their own way to overcome problems.  Then
they
may have shown someone else what they did, and it became  “law”!!

Liz. In Very hot Mellbourne,.  Oz

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[lace] Black Lace Tie at top of Lace Guild website pages

[Jeriames]

Dear  Lacemakers,

Regarding https://www.laceguild.org/  pages

Before the website format  that Jean and David Leader created disappears,
back on January 12th I suggested  you print a copy of the home page and tuck
it in one of the lace books Jean  wrote.  Printing may work for you, but
when I tried to do it - the page  printed, but the black lace tie space was
blank.  Jean has been consulted  and gives the following advice - if others
are
having the same  problem:

"You need to do a screen shot  to get the black lace tie because of the way
David set up the page.  I  don't know how to do that on Windows, but I'm
sure someone will be able to  tell you."

"Before I forget, it’s fine  with me to tell the story about the tie."

Back in 2010, I invited Jean to  Maine to rest from jet lag between
teaching obligations that had taken  her from Scotland to the far side of the
Pacific from Maine, and  on to New England - on the east coast of the US.
There
was  an open week before she would teach the New England Lace Group.

We went to Hallowell (mentioned  in the Ipswich Lace book) for lunch.  This
is the delightful Federal  period "Smallest City in Maine" - on the
Kennebec River, and where my  Ipswich lace ancestors traveled by ship enroute
to
claiming land  grants in Maine after the Revolutionary War.  They had the
surname Lord, and that is the 18th century Ipswich lace connection to  me.

We went to a vintage linens  shop in Hallowell, where I frequently shopped
in search of laces,  and pulled a black lace tie out of a container of
jumbled  hankies, doilies, etc.  The price was very low, and I suggested  Jean
might like it as a teaching example.  The black lace  tie traveled back to
Scotland, and not long afterwards a photo of it  appeared at the top of all
the
pages in The Lace Guild's website!  Small  world.

Jeri Ames in Maine  USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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Re: [lace] Lace Fish, finished in a short beginner session

[Jeriames]

Did anyone receive this message from Gon Homburg in Amsterdam?  I  received 
only one message from her, and should have received 2, based on the way  
she addressed it to both Arachne and to me as an individual.  
 
Gon:  I cannot fix your problem of reaching Arachne because both of us  are 
having similar problems reaching all Arachne members.   Someone at another 
ISP will send it on to your intended audience.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 

In a message dated 1/13/2017 3:00:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
gon.homb...@me.com writes:

Dear  Jeri,  


Please forward if it is not going through to Arachne.


The Lacemakers of Puget Sound made a demonstration pattern of a little  
fish, which takes only about 20 minutes to make. Only 5 pairs are needed and  
if you use a different color for every pair it is very easy for children to  
make. You can find it on


http://www.lacemakers.org/LPS-resources/demonstration


Gon Homburg, The  Netherlands

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Re: [lace] Lace Fish, finished in a short beginner session

[Jeriames]

Please share with all, someone - until we get the help requested in next  
paragraph.
 
We discussed these little bobbin lace fish several years ago.  At  the 
time, someone provided access to the instructions and a pricking -  probably on 
a local lace group's website.  Perhaps someone  could provide a web address 
to this quicker-to-make than  snakes instruction sheet with us again?  It 
prints out to one  page, and is something every demonstrating individual or 
group might like  to have in their "bag of tricks for tiny beginners".
 
There are several letters under "Lace Fish" in the Arachne archives, so I  
changed the subject line to force this new discussion to be filed with  them:
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html  

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 1/13/2017 9:26:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
malva...@sympatico.ca writes:

When  I've gone out demonstrating, we have a fish pattern (like the head of 
the  snake. but smaller) which doesn't take much to finish...  
We have  several sets of bobbins pre-wound and often two pillows so that 
one 
is  hung on and started while the people are working on the other.

Malvary  in Ottawa 

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[lace] Color Theory and Thread Conservation

[Jeriames]

Someone, please share this from another ISP, since we've been told AOL and  
Comcast do not play well together!
 
1.   Color theory taught by embroidery and  photography experts includes an 
explanation of what happens  when a black and white photo is made of 
something that relies on color for  impact.  Colors of the same value will not 
show details that may be  important to a design.  This effect is apparent if 
you just put  red and green of the same value next to each other (as Joy  
mentions), walk across the room, and squint at them.  An understanding  of this 
is of importance to anyone who is making colored lace.  If your  lace work 
is going to be photographed, you should understand colors, and  visually test 
them side-by-side before you even begin a project.  
 
Americans who belong to IOLI can better understand this by propping up  the 
newest bulletin (Fall 2016, Vol. 37, Number 1), with Janet Blair's lace  
peacock, and stepping back to view it.  She has used 3 blues for the body,  
and used one of those blues as spots on the green tail.  You can see how  
important the yellow outlining blue spots is.  Imagine if this lovely  lace was 
meant to be photographed in black and white! 
 
2.  Conservation warning to anyone who is using a spool of thread as a  
make-shift pin cushion.  
 
A long time ago, I wrote to Arachne about sticking needles in a spool  of 
thread, in response to a magazine photograph many lacemakers might have  
seen.  This damages thread throughout a spool or cone enough  that thread may 
break or be weakened throughout layers  wherever it has been pierced.  This is 
a habit that can get  away from you - perhaps putting needles or pins in 
thread that will be used  at some future time to make lace or sew a seam.  The 
weak spots will  be the first to "self destruct", and none of us like to 
repair lace or  re-sew seams.   (You may use this cautionary tip in your  
guild newsletters.)
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-   
 
 
In a message dated 1/11/2017 6:31:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
joybee...@comcast.net writes:

...Even  on a green curtain, red
isn't as conspicuous a color as people  thinkone
has to know it's there to see it at all, and then it's  only
a vague smudge.  This has a single sewing machine needle
stuck  in it, so I think it was intended to store spent
machine needles, butI  stick those into my cone of basting
thread.  

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Re: [lace] Lace Guild website

[Jeriames]

Please, someone, share this memo from another ISP
 
Please make sure you capture The Lace Guild's face page in a permanent  
place - to remember Jean and David (tuck a paper copy in one of Jean's  books, 
for example).  If the face page changes, and Jean gives  permission, I will 
tell you about the black lace tie that is  displayed at the top of it.
 
This announcement is a surprise.  Jean and David Leader have  been a 
valuable devoted-to-lace team for decades.  The amount of  volunteer work they 
do 
for us is nearly impossible to imagine.  Rarely  do lace makers have such a 
vast variety of lace knowledge  - and ability to communicate - emanating 
from one couple. 
 
Leader is a most appropriate description of them, as well as being  their 
surname!
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 
-
 
In a message dated 1/7/2017 5:51:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
j...@jeanleader.net writes:

The  Executive Committee of The Lace Guild has decided it wishes a new 
webmaster,  and therefore after today, 7th January 2017, David and I will no 
longer be  responsible for the content or maintenance of the Lace Guild 
website.  

Jean Leader

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[lace] 18th C. Lace-trimmed Sack Back Gown, per BBC

[Jeriames]

BBC Antiques Road Show Find 
 
May we have some feedback, please?  Otherwise, why  should anyone continue 
posting lace news here?
 
Anyone interested in how lace was used to add extra refinement to  an 18th 
century sack back gown will appreciate this.  Painted silk  is encountered 
in conservation studies.  The reporter  is quite right - the silk and 
chemicals in paint do not usually marry  well.  (Something modern artists need 
to 
know.)
 
So, this is about lace, and it is about  conservation.  Both of which need 
understanding because of the way lace was  used an embellishment.
 
My shy lace friend sent this link to me  for you all!
 
https://www.facebook.com/BBCAntiquesRoadshow/videos/1388719294502644/

Unless I missed it, she does not even  mention the lace!
To learn more about this style of dress, there are pictures (with proper  
underpinnings) and a list of books provided at:  
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sack-back_gown
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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Re: [lace] UK trip - News! Lace in Fashion exhibit in Bath, etc.

[Jeriames]

Dear Robin in Canberra and Others Traveling to the UK in 2017,

You do not say if you will be going to Scotland, Wales, or Northern
Ireland.  Here is what you can use to familiarize yourself with various
offerings
in England.


Just received this morning:  A link to information about the Fashion
Museum of Bath’s “Lace in Fashion” exhibit from Feb 2017 to Jan  2018.
http://bit.ly/2j7AG9Z


Hopefully, someone from The Lace Guild has contacted the  above museum and
arranged a preview and interview for publication  in the Guild's quarterly
bulletin as-soon-as-possible.  It  is always best to read about something
like this well before an exhibit  closes.

Anyone traveling to the UK can profit from reading some of the quarterly
"Lace" bulletins published by The Lace Guild.  If you belong to a lace  group
in Australia, there is usually at least one person who belongs.

I have described the bulletins often on Arachne.  Each contains a  2-page
section on all the Lace Days/Exhibitions & Events/Courses &  Workshops - nice
to copy and take along.  You should write in advance  to confirm any plans
you have, because these things can be cancelled or  re-scheduled, and travel
around the country is expensive. "Lace" also has  advertising from lace
suppliers and about up-coming events.

You might like to arrange in advance to visit The Hollies - the
headquarters of The Lace Guild.
https://www.laceguild.org/

If you will be in northern England, have a look at what is happening at
Gawthorpe Hall, the second largest collection of textiles (including  lace) in
the U.K.  The following address offers many ideas for  everyone and should
be a must-read for those planning programs  for local guilds.  It has been
highly recommended by me on  Arachne before.  You can work your way back,
back, back for several  years.  A wonderful learning experience.  We have an
Arachne member  who is a Gawthorpe volunteer.  If this place is of interest to
you,  please be sure to mention it on Arachne, and I'll try to facilitate a
 private introduction.  So much nicer, than just dropping in.
http://www.gawthorpetextiles.org.uk

It seems to me that the V has made it very difficult to view their  lace
collection.  If you visit the main museum building, though, you will  see
lots of lace as you wander around galleries, especially in portraits.   The
lace collection has been relocated, and you have to make an appointment to
view it.  Have others done this?  Is it worth the extra time/expense  for
staying in London?  Start your research at the following  address:
https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/the-clothworkers-centre-for-the-study-and-conserv
ation-of-textiles-and-fashion

The Royal School of Needlework is located in the back left corner of
Hampton Court Palace.  They are not focused so much on lace, although
needlelace
and stumpwork are part of their curriculum.
http://www.royal-needlework.org.uk/

The Embroiderers' Guild also will recognize needle lace.  They used to  be
at Hampton Court Palace, but have been relocated to another part of
England.  Their address:
https://embroiderersguild.com/

Finally, if there is a book store or news stand near you, look in
embroidery magazines from England.  They usually list a lot of upcoming
activities,
craft fairs, etc.  But, like Maine, the magazines you look at  may be
almost out-of-date by the time they reach Australia.

This is a start, Robin.  Hopefully, it will influence  others to chime in
with more data.  I see you are ready to book your  flights, so thought an
immediate response might be helpful.

Everyone -- remember to go back to the top of this letter, and click on the
 address given, to see information about Lace in Fashion, Bath.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center



In a message dated 1/8/2017 5:41:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
robinsnailm...@gmail.com writes:

Hi,  I'm coming to the UK for an event on the 8 - 10  September.  I'll be
in the
UK for about 3 weeks and wondered if anyone  knew of anything like lace
meetings or lace fairs around this time. We've  not booked our flights yet
and I'm keen to find out what is available in a  lace sense while I can
still be that bit flexible

Robin from  Canberra

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Re: [lace] Lace at Amsterdam Festival of Light

[Jeriames]

Dramatic!  It is surprising that we were not told about this  lace by our 
friends in Amsterdam.  Thank you so much for  bringing it to our attention - 
from South Africa.  The links are  interesting.
 
In our years of reading Arachne, we've had the opportunity to  view large 
lace installations in several nations, requiring the  professional skills of 
architects.  Some very special  architects present lace to people who 
otherwise would never  consider attending a museum's lace installation.   Let's 
 
declare a "Be kind to architects holiday". 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
  
 
 
In a message dated 1/8/2017 6:34:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
thelacepl...@hotmail.co.za writes:

Thanks  to a link on Facebook I have just been looking at the winning entry 
in
the  2016/17 Festival of Light in Amsterdam.

It is a 12m x 6.8m piece of  lace suspended over one of the canals in
Amsterdam. They had to make the  design in crochet to give it strength but 
it
looks quite authentic in the  pictures. Quite inspirational.

Have a look at http://www.choishine.com/Projects/TheLaceConcept.html

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Re: [lace] Bobbin Lace and Native Americans

[Jeriames]

The Piecework magazine several of you are remembering, is  probably 
May/June 2016 (the annual Lace issue for 2016).  It contains an  article:   
"The 
Talented Oneida Lacemakers".
 
At the end is a list of "further resources" on the subject.   Following are 
4 to keep in a file if you will have an on-going interest in  the subject:
 
Nov/Dec 1993 Piecework - "Sybil Carter's Legacy: Native American  Lace"  
 
Minnesota Historical Society, July 9, 2014:  
_www.mnopedia.org/group/sybil-carter-indian-lace-association_ 
(http://www.mnopedia.org/group/sybil-carter-indian-lace-association) 
 
This address had a security warning when searched:
_www.oneidanation.org/culture/page.aspx?id=2494_ 
(http://www.oneidanation.org/culture/page.aspx?id=2494)  
 
and
https://wisconsinobject.wordpress.com/2011/03/17/now-online-lace-from-oneida
-nation-museum 
 
Finally, if you search 1) Sybil Carter or 2) American Indian Lace, you  may 
find more.
 
It must be noted that none of these resources, as far as I can see,  offers 
much information about the equipment used.  The bobbins in some  photos 
appear to be Continentals.  They were probably made  locally by American 
Indians.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Loretta Holtzberger - Nordic Needle

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,
 
The Embroiderers' Guilds in Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the  U.S. 
consider needle laces being made with a threaded needle with an  eye as being 
embroidery.  
 
I have written to Arachne **many times** to recommend to our members the  
needle lace courses offered by the various Embroiderers' Guilds around the  
world.  This is because, at this moment in time, Lace Guilds are focused on  
bobbin laces.  The Embroiderers' Guilds have experts in many types of work  
(excepting bobbin lace), and they offer courses in their seminars and 
workshops  at meetings that are "wonderful".  It was through such courses that 
I  
learned about Lace Guilds 40 years ago and came to be involved in the  
international lace community.  This is true of several dear friends, who  have 
moved from embroidery to lace.
 
Nordic Needle is a large privately-owned business in the upper mid-West (a  
region of the U.S. where many Scandinavians settled) which offers  quality 
fabrics and threads.  Also, books and many related supplies.   (Want a nice 
pair of embroidery scissors?  You'll find  them.)  Nordic Needle originally 
offered supplies for Hardanger  and other Scandinavian needlework like 
Hedebo and Swedish  embroidery.   Unlike the craft chain stores in malls where 
staffs  know little about merchandise, the staff at Nordic Needle knows a lot 
about  needlework.  I always suggest it to women in Maine, a state where 
most  owner-operated needlework shops have closed.  They ship to other  
nations.  You can look at what they offer:
 
http://www.nordicneedle.com/
 
And this is what we have said in 33 memos in our Arachne  archives:
 
_http://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Nordic+Needle=lace%40arachne.com_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Nordic+Needle=lace@arachne.com) 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-
 
In a message dated 1/1/2017 10:41:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

There's  a nice article about LH in the current newsletter issue from 
Nordic  Needle.  I didn't realize she is also an expert in various embroidery  
techniques in addition to needlelace!  The article includes pics of her  work. 
 Sincerely, Susan Hottle  USA

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Re: [lace] Pincushions

[Jeriames]

Of course, the lanolin in uncleaned wool will be kind to your pins,  but 
you all must remember that moths like it!   I have a rather new  home and 
moths have not invaded it.  But, if you have moths, you know it,  and will wish 
to avoid feeding them.
 
Like Antje, I have saved clean thread and yarn bits from canvas work  (in 
an air-tight container) to use in stuffing pin cushions, though it has been  
years since I've made one.  No metallics.  Embroiderers call these  scraps 
"orts", which is usually what you call crumbs from a meal.   These, however, 
are "crumbs left over from projects made with  thread.  In our archives, you 
will find 28 memos about orts:
 
_http://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Orts=lace%40arachne.com_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/search?q=Orts=lace@arachne.com)   
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
In a message dated 1/1/2017 6:26:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ag...@weatherwax.karoo.co.uk writes:

Hello  Barbara
Is this wool straight off the sheep, or do you need to clean it in  any way
first?
I also wonder whether cleaning the wool will remove much  of the natural 
oils
in it.
Quite intrigued by this. 
Agnes Boddington  - Elloughton UK

I like to make pincushions stuffed with sheep  wool, quite firmly.
The lanolin in the wool protects pins.
My favourites  are small rectangular embroidered linen. I have a few heart
shaped ones,  made as triangle with two points stitched together with extra
loop that can  be pinned to pillow. Barbara, Parkes  Australia

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Re: [lace] Arachne Flickr page

[Jeriames]

Isn't it wonderful how quickly lace makers respond to problems?   If only
everyone in the world got along this well!

On behalf of all Arache members, a huge thank you to Clay for financially
supporting the Flickr page.  And, because we have seen so often that Sue
has been the go-to person when anyone has difficulty loading a photo on
Flickr,  a huge thank you to her.

Sometimes, members of Arachne do not know about individuals  that make
Arachne possible.  This includes Liz who provides the server that  Arachne is
on, and Avital who takes care of any "management" issues.   Thanks to you
both, also.

Finally, thanks to those who participate by sharing and by answering
questions.  We need activity from everyone to keep Arachne  interesting and
useful.

A Happy Lacy New Year to All,

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
-

In a message dated 12/30/2016 6:26:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
clayblackw...@comcast.net writes:

The  entire site appears differently on my iPad, but it looks as though
anyone can  upload now...

> On Dec 30, 2016, at 5:54 PM, Sue Babbs   wrote:
>
> Clay and I have now  changed the password – email me personally if you
want
> to know it, as  we don’t want to put it on Arachne where it will end up
in
> the  archives for the whole world to find!
>
> Beth, I will send it to  you in a separate email
>
Sue
_suebabbs385@gmail.com_ (mailto:suebabbs...@gmail.com)

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[lace] Carved Porcelain Lace in "Victoria"

[Jeriames]

No one has lace news today?  There is always something to learn  about 
lace...
 
The same January/February 2017 issue of "Victoria" magazine that I  wrote 
about on Christmas Day has a feature about 7 outstanding businesswomen who  
reap the rewards of doing what they truly love for a living.
 
One that stood out to me was a woman who makes "carved porcelain".   Very 
expensive - but, an inspiration.  She had a practical career that  supported 
her for many years, which we can relate to.  Now, she supports  herself by 
creating these wonderful pieces of lacy porcelain art.   (You will wonder who 
is buying these, at these prices. Obviously, she is  able to earn more per 
hour than any of today's lacemakers!)  
 
http://www.isabelleabramson.com/
 
Do you know someone just starting out, after completing their  education?  
In the U.S. they will most likely be thousands of dollars in  debt for 
tuition loans.  One very nice Valentine's  Day "surprise" of something 
lace-inspired (but, at a  much lower price) would be so wonderful to someone 
just 
beginning  to live on her own.  It could be a life-long reminder that the  
person who gave it to her was one of those very rare people who loved/made  
lace 
in the early 21st century.  
 
When furnishing my first home in 1956, a woman I did not know well gave me  
2 very lovely antique water glasses and 2 silver grapefruit spoons.   Not 
the most practical gifts for someone with one plate/one cup and saucer/one  
cereal bowl/one cheap setting of utensils/one pot in which to warm up water 
or  soup, etc. Sixty years later, Mrs. Piper is still remembered when  these 
little "civilizers" are used.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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Re: [lace] Pincushions - Styrofoam vs. Sawdust Fillings

[Jeriames]

Dear Sally and those interested,
 
New Year's Resolution:  Make a pincushion for a friend?
 
Quite some time ago, I wrote a memo comparing my large old  tomato 
pincushion with small new tomato pincushions.  A simple Arachne  archive search 
did 
not find it, so maybe the subject line was different.  I  don't want to look 
at the over 1,500 memos in our archives that are  filed under my name, so 
will write again.
 
I had bought 2 of the new tomato pincushions from A.C. Moore, a craft store 
 chain that has many products made in China.  As a trained textile  
conservator, I wanted to cut one apart to see what was inside.   It was a dense 
synthetic ball of  something like styrofoam.  A G##gl# search of styrofoam  
pincushions brings up many messages, suggesting to me they are popular to  
make.  Not so sure I'd use styrofoam, but I expect anything from  my creative 
hands to last a very long time.
 
Is styrofoam a good material for pins to penetrate?  How long will it  
last?  Would the finger you use to push pins into it be injured from the  
firmness of styrofoam?  Lacemakers will use a pincushion in a different way  
than 
would a person who is sewing or embroidering.
 
Back to the story of my very old large tomato pincushion that had been  in 
continuous use for over 50 years.  The red cover was finally  falling apart, 
and sawdust was coming through the holes.  It, too, was cut  apart.  The 
inside of this pincushion had over 100 embedded needles of all  sizes and for 
a variety of purposes that had sunk beyond  reach!  These were harvested, 
and I am using them  because they were undamaged by time in a sawdust tomb.
 
Do you have an old tomato pincushion?  What treasures may reside in  it?  
Can they be recycled?
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 

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In a message dated 12/26/2016 5:05:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dansing...@gmail.com writes:

Can  someone recommend some good pincushions to buy? Preferably in the U.S.
I  need to collect/make several beginner kits for teaching bobbin lace,  and
want the students to have good materials so their early experiences  are
positiveI want functional. Firm filling. Big enough to  hold
sufficient pins for a project. Able to be pinned onto the  pillow...

The red tomatoes that are sold with sewing supplies do not  have the quality
that they did when I was young. They are actually too hard  and stiff now...

Sally in western Oregon, enjoying some rare winter  sunshine

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[lace] Lace-related Treasures for Day Dreamers

[Jeriames]

This note is especially for lacemakers who may be alone this  Christmas Day:
 
The January/February 2017 "Victoria" magazine shows a SweetMarveLace  lace 
doily in a lovely photo on page 20.  
 
A name search came up with this address:
 
https://www.etsy.com/shop/SweetMarveLace
 
For Canadians, the above did not show, but the search brought up  another 
address for lace maple leafs from this company:
 
https://www.etsy.com/listing/186431558/12-sugar-doilies-25-edible-maple-leaf
 
The promotional description suggests these confections can  also be used to 
decorate cakes.  They are expensive, but if you  are treating a very dear 
lace friend or friends, how lovely.
 
"Victoria" is a lifestyle magazine for those with daydreams  and money to 
spend on a luxurious way of life.  I regard it as being  promotional news.  
Laces often appear in various features, and can  inspire you.  Perhaps they 
will lead to developing a program for your  lace group.  I hope that people 
around the world are able to access the  "Victoria" web site:
 
_www.victoriamag.com_ (http://www.victoriamag.com)  
 
You do not have to subscribe to the on-line site to read  it.  Read the 
Privacy Policy at the bottom of the page.  I am Not  Subscribed, and can still 
read it.
 
I buy the ($5) magazine at the book store 6 times per year (for  privacy 
and to stay off any shared lists), and have put the _www.victoriamag.com_ 
(http://www.victoriamag.com)  reminder on my  calendar for January, March, May, 
July, September, November.  This way, I  can read what is on line and 
maintain privacy.
 
Wishing all Lace Friends around the world the blessing of  a Peaceful and 
Happy New Year,
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center 

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[lace] Adding Lace to a Dress - Wear Lace

[Jeriames]

Here is my donation for the day.  It is one that many could have  written:
 
North Americans may have watched "Live with Kelly" on TV this  morning.  A 
guest was Tricia Yearwood, the country music  singer.  Yearwood is a mature 
woman, with a full figure. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZg4nnXUH6EHere 
 
Be sure to look at the back of her dress when she walks in.  Here  is my 
description: 
 
Tight-fitting black sheath with dropped shoulders to which are added  black 
set-in sleeves to elbows, V neck, hem stops above knees, trimmed  with 
white lace.  Separate narrow lace-colored belt.
 
Two long bands of very pretty white lace (probably 8" wide and  probably 
machine-made) were added to the basic dress.  The lace went from  front hem, 
straight up over the shoulders and straight down the back to the  hem, on 
each side.  This had the effect of making Yearwood look much  heavier.  When 
she sat for the interview portion, the dress rode up at  the hem.
 
Having studied fashion design and made all my adult clothes before age  30, 
I thought about how this dress and lace could be more becoming.   Narrower 
lace, so that a bit more black showed at the sides, would have  created an 
optical illusion that made her look slimmer.  An A-line  skirt, when one 
knows she will be seated in front of a camera or in a chair  on a stage, would 
have covered her knees when sitting, instead of  "riding up".
 
The basic design idea is very good, and one many of you might consider  
wearing to a public event or celebration.  My suggestion would be to put a  
dress (not skin tight on you) on a mannequin (or even  a padded hanger) and 
then experiment with the width  and placement of lace.  The lace and dress 
should be colors that  work with your complexion.  Lace can be fragile.  Choose 
a sturdy  one that will not be stress-damaged when you sit, or end the wide 
lace  strips at waist in back.  Omit the belt.  Also, be sure to have a  
wrap of some kind to cover the lace when using a car's (or plane's)  seatbelt.
 
Suddenly, a memory of the late Radmilla Zuman came to  me.  I remember a 
simple black dress to which she added a long strip of  lace in a most 
complimentary diagonal placement.  The dress fit  properly, and she wore it at 
a 
lace event.  This brought up another  memory of a class she taught in a NYC 
museum on how to make a collar  pattern for a specific dress.  This is a 
valuable skill to learn - she  laid a dress on the table and traced around the 
neckline and the slope of  the shoulder.  She cut out a paper pattern and made 
a few  adjustments to that so it would lay flat on the dress when worn.   
She offered lace options for making a lace collar in various  shapes.  If I 
had been at home, I would have cut out the pattern  from a scrap of fabric 
approximately the weight of lace, put on  the dress, and made sure it really 
sat right.  Then, I'd make allowance for  threads that might retract when a 
collar is lifted off the lace  pillow, before making a pricking. 
 
If this seems too much work, consider making a very long somewhat  narrow 
scarf (one that is a fashion statement and not to be used for  warmth).  A 
scarf can be worn with various clothes, is easy to  store, and packs well in a 
suitcase.  To determine length/width, tear  up a worn-out bed sheet in 
strips and drape around your neck.  Antique  narrow scarves exist.  This is a 
traditional accessory.  For a  long useful life, never use pins to secure a 
scarf.  To prevent  damage, hand carry the scarf to events where you plan to 
wear it.  Be wary  of car doors, theater seats, stairs and the like.
 
Wear lace.  Experiment with how it will be presented  to enhance your 
personality.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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Re: [lace] torchon ground / gimp writing (long reply)

[Jeriames]

Dear Jenny and Others interested in using cursive writing on lace,
 
Have you considered embroidering the words using whipped chain  stitches?  
Success will depend on which lace stitches will be under the  words.
 
You could make your lace without doing the lettering.  Then, do  as I do 
for delicate embroidery that I wish to personalize.  Whip stitch  over chain 
stitched words.
 
Practice on plain fabric to test thread options for scale.  A chain  stitch 
can navigate curves, but whipping the chain will make cursive  writing flow 
even better.  Chain will have 2 threads on  surface.  One more will be 
added as slightly slanted whipping stitches  draw chain threads together into 
smooth curves.  
 
Make embroidered chain-stitched words, using a pointy needle.  When  you 
switch to doing this on lace, you can try not to pierce holes  in the tops of 
lace threads so lace threads will show no holes if  you do not like result 
and decide to unravel.  You could test this  concept on a lace bookmark.  
 
Leave a starting thread tail long enough to thread into a  sharp needle 
later so the cut end can be woven under the back of  the first letter of each 
word.  Though Jenny has chosen no words that  present a challenge 
(Love/Hope/Joy), some letters, like "t", can be  worked as you go along, or the 
horizontal bar can be done on the  return trip when you are whipping the chain. 
 
This needs  preliminary practice.  Hide carrying stitches under the  cursive 
"writing".  The last chain stitch in a word requires  practice so the 
hold-down stitch does not get pulled to the underside.   (The last plunge 
should 
not share the exact same hole as thread came up  in.)   
 
Whip stitches?   Do not cut thread at the end  of each chain-stitched word. 
 Secure the last stitch with a tiny  backstitch underneath and bring needle 
to the top at the end of the  last chain stitch, trying not to pierce the 
underlying lace.   Switch to using the eye end of your threaded needle to 
whip  stitch each chain stitch loop together on the surface, and whip  back to 
the beginning of the word.  Do not whip stitch down through  the foundation 
fabric or lace.  Drop the needle from time-to-time  if thread kinks, or 
re-twist if it loses the normal spun appearance of  thread.  Be sure to 
practice 
whip stitch, so your slant of stitches  and tension are even.  Do not 
over-tension.  
 
Weave ends under the letter at the beginning of each word, if the result  
pleases you.  If not, chain stitching can be easily  removed.  Whip stitching 
over a chain  stitch will yield a delicate, precise, smooth, slightly  
raised cord-like appearance.
 
This has always been my way to personalize embroidery, and also to outline  
parts that others might use a stem stitch or outline stitch to do.   Extra 
special:  Use a very fine quality gold thread for the  whipping.  It will be 
subtle and elegant.
 
Dot for an "i".  Not everyone knows how to make a nice  plump French Knot 
that does not flop over, but sits up straight with a  dimple in the middle.  
The trick is not to add more twists for a larger  knot.  A preferred method 
is to add more threads to the  needle and only twist around the needle once, 
plus just a tad  beyond.  Practice a row of these and see how consistent 
they can  be.  Like chain stitches, the down stroke of the needle should not 
share  the hole of the thread when it came up at the beginning.   Please  
write privately if this does not work for you, and I will work with  
individuals.  Sometimes I am terribly sorry Arachne does not have  illustration 
capabilities.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 
 
In a message dated 12/16/2016 9:20:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
je...@brandis.com.au writes:

I am  going to design a wedding garter for my daughter's May wedding, but
wanted  to use torchon ground with gimp writing words like Love, Hope, Joy.
My  problem is that I am not sure how or even if gimp can do cursive writing
-  can you direct me to a book, website or person who may have the  alphabet
and or words already sorted out?  Jenny Brandis  

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[lace] Volunteers, Lace Newsletters, Lace Study Aids

[Jeriames]

There is no Privacy notice in connection with the email  letter described 
below.  The Lace Guild in England was asking for  volunteers in their most 
recent quarterly bulletins, and I think staffing  problems apply to many 
guilds, so am commenting.
 
The Lace Group/Guild which serves the Washington DC, Virginia,  Maryland, 
Delaware area - sent a letter to members this week.  In addition  to other 
news, the letter to me says they no longer have a newsletter  editor.  OMG.  
They will send e-mails announcing important  events, meetings, classes.  I 
submit that newsletters are important  records, and sometimes they are all 
that members who cannot attend meetings  have to enjoy in return for paying 
dues.  What about members  whose ISPs are incompatible with each other ... 
subject of a memo I sent to  Arachne earlier today?  Are they guaranteed to 
receive  e-mails?
 
The letter also asks:  "Who would like to be our  librarian?  We have a 
selection of DVDs.  Without a librarian, we will  disband the library."  OMG.  
Being a librarian that manages  DVDs does not seem to require special 
qualifications.  The  letter does not mention a library of lace books, but most 
guilds have one  for use by members.  My next logical question would be about 
how  members are borrowing lace books.  Since I am 12+ hours of  driving 
away from this part of America, I never attend meetings and do not know  all 
details.  My reason for belonging is to receive  newsletters and know what is 
happening - for my research library.  
 
How can these things happen in such a critical geographical  location in 
the US?  
 
Arachne members: Please volunteer when your local lace group needs  help.  
Share your abilities.  If you do not believe you are needed,  please read 
some of my long-ago memos to Arachne (in Arachne archives)  that tell why The 
Lace Guild of New York and other  lace/embroidery groups disbanded, even 
though they were popular.   Officer positions must be filled !!!  It is 
mandatory that  not-for-profit organizations have officers.  And, those 
officers 
need  the help that newsletter editors and librarians provide.
 
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html 
 

 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

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[lace] Missing Mails from Me (Jeri Ames) - please repost

[Jeriames]

This is acknowledgement of a problem.  There is no need to  respond and 
fill up Arachne digests.
 
Some of this may be related to the very old server we are  using.  Add the 
problems of ISPs not cooperating with each other, and  "Houston, we have a 
problem".
 
Sorry so many of you are not receiving my AOL mails, and have to rely on  
others to repost.  
 
After holiday tasks are completed, I will wage another battle with AOL  - 
they always keep me waiting on the phone for long periods of  time and these 
employees hold powerless (sometimes  untrained) positions.  
 
My AOL address is embedded in articles, in search sites,  in computers, and 
hand-written on my business cards in the hands of  people all over the 
world.  That presents problems for lace  researchers trying to reach me and the 
experts with whom I consult.  

AOL and other ISPs will not forward to a new address, and there  is no one 
non-government place to make an address change (like there  is with 
government-operated post offices).
 
Losing track of people because ISPs are not cooperating with each other  is 
(my opinion) criminal, since it can affect medical practitioners,  law 
enforcement, researchers of all kinds, people sending resumes and  receiving 
e-mails from potential employers, and so forth.  
 
I have always written for all 1,000 of you, with no one empowered  to edit 
my words (my preference, and why I do not write for lace  bulletins).  Since 
all of you are no longer receiving my letters,  I have cut back on writing. 
 
Probably, I cannot get Jeriames@ (another ISP), which could be easy  for 
you all to remember.  A change will have  hidden costs - money that could be 
used for book purchases.  I'll have  to hire my computer guru for more hours. 
 Not sure how much he'd have to  do.  But, living in a sparsely populated 
place means numerous  computer-related operations have no local support here. 
 I have  intellectual and patience limits, and do not want to spend time  
learning a lot of new instructions and how to  navigate over-designed busy 
screens and menus.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] New Lace Museum in Detroit Michigan USA - please repost

[Jeriames]

We exist to quickly present news of importance to the international lace  
community.  Why has no Arachne member written about this new lace museum  
that opened less than a month ago?
 
I am half a continent away, there are lace experts closer to it, and I am  
the first to find it while doing a search for something else?  Or, in a  
reversal of faulty mail reception, has someone written, but the news not  come 
to me?
 
Would someone or a lace group in the Detroit Area please  physically visit 
this museum, write a report to us, and find out if IOLI is  writing about 
this new member?  IOLI is mentioned at the bottom of the  new museum's website:
 
_www.thelacemuseumllc.com/_ (http://www.thelacemuseumllc.com/) 
 
This museum's name is close to the name of The Lace Museum in Sunnyvale  
California.
 
About 20 years ago, Lace Fairy was developing as the first virtual lace  
museum in the U.S., with my support.   
 
The name Lori Howe wanted to use was Lace Museum.  I suggested not  trying 
to compete with an existing museum, even if the management of that museum  
was slow to present itself to people who owned computers.  Now, we  Americans 
have a welcome mid-western lace facility, with very  little in the name to 
differentiate it. 
 
The Sunnyvale museum's address is: 
 
_www.thelacemuseum.org/_ (http://www.thelacemuseum.org/) 
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
The  Lace Museum, Detroit:  Proud  Member of Michigan Museums Association 
and International  Organization  of Lace, Inc.

www.thelacemuseumllc.com   Curator:  Mary Gen Salmon  PH.  937. 681.7219 he 
Lace  Museum, Detroit:  Proud  Member of Michigan Museums Association and 
International  Organization  of Lace, Inc.

www.thelacemuseumllc.com   Curator:  Mary Gen Salmon  PH.  937. 681.7219 
The Lace  Museum, Detroit:  Proud  Member of Michigan Museums Association and 
International  The  Lace Museum, Detroit:  Proud  Member of Michigan Museums 
Association and International  Organization  of Lace, Inc.

www.thelacemuseumllc.com   Curator:  Mary Gen Salmon  PH.  937. 681.7219The 
 Lace Museum, Detroit:  Proud  Member of Michigan Museums Association and 
International  Organization  of Lace, Inc.

www.thelacemuseumllc.com   Curator:  Mary Gen Salmon  PH.  937.  
681.7219Organization  of Lace,  Inc.

www.thelacemuseumllc.com   Curator:  Mary Gen Salmon  PH.  937. 681.7219

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[lace] Festive Costume Auction on Dec. 12, 2016

[Jeriames]

Our Arachne correspondence has nearly faded away, but there are still  
things to learn here.  I've not subscribed to Facebook, so still have some  
items to share from time-to-time.
 
Anyone interested in fashion and costumes, and how lace was sometimes  
used?  How about Royal garments?  
 
This pre-Christmas auction in England has some very interesting  elegant 
offerings:
 
http://kerrytaylorauctions.com/Catalog/?id=437
 
If you enjoyed this, please comment, so others will know I have posted  
this.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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