Richard, Trampas -
Many folks, have suggested that the most cost effective repair may be
obtaining a good used box. They go for about $100 or so. I had the one in my
107 rebuilt by a retired M/B mechanic that did them as a hobby and for a few
extra retirement bucks. It has worked just fine so far.
John -
Screw it in just until you feel it hit the rack linkage inside the IP.
Understand that if it is screwed in too far the engine may not start. Go
ahead and start the engine and screw the damper bolt in very slowly until
the engine just settles down. do not turn it in any more than is
Robert -
I don't think that the RO water would be a problem. The one you shouldn't
use would be the deionized water as it is looking for a spare ion and will
steal one from anywhere it can, like a cylinder head casting.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Kevin -
If the NAPA store doesn't have it you can go to McMaster-Carr.
www.mcmastercarr.com and search for 91732A824 includes the tap, 5 inserts
and the installation tool. For an insert that size you could easily break
off the installation tang with some needle nose pliers or an appropriately
Bill -
In my experience with things electrical and M/B if a bunch of weird stuff
starts happening it has got to either be a bad ground somewhere or a blown
fuse on an Over voltage Protection Relay. Since the '81 300SD doesn't have a
OPR then.
Like the other listers have said, battery ground
Yep, tap first to see if the threads are galled in the hub but if no joy
then a helicoil would be my first choice. It can be done without taking
anything apart except removing the wheel and it will be stronger than the
original threads.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Maybe it's a moot point. I checked out the NBA web site and they said the
team wouldn't be moving.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of archer
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2006 1:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bye bye
That doesn't sound like the typical failure as I understand it, and I kinda
doubt it could be covered under the subframe campaign. My '81 380SL had the
old style subframe and a couple of the A-arm tabs were cracking when I
bought it. I had had them welded, but when I went to the dealer for another
Kaleb -
BZT backatya too big guy. Didn't you read my earlier post??? :^)
Surely I'm not the only non 450 one. I didn't understand that it went to a
lawsuit. I thought it was just one of those unwritten type warranty
coverages. Ya know the ones where we really don't want to admit that there
Minor update to Jim's post...the '81 380SLs had the dreaded Chrysler servo
as well.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 12:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 107--450SL, 560SL
Trampas -
You could also replace the relay with a jumper and see if the problem seems
to go away.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Trampas
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 7:02 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 560SEL
George -
Not sure if it is the same on your '85 SD as on my '81 SD but on mine I just
remove the left front speaker from the dash with a stubby Phillips
screwdriver and I can reach in that hole to push the cluster out. I find
that less work than removing the knee bolster to get behind the cluster.
Trampas -
To confirm what Marshall said, I asked a similar question at a MBCA meeting
once when we had a M/B regional tech rep. as a guest speaker and he stated
that if they, the steering box, are maintained well they practically never
wear out. What happens is that the various bearings and a
Mac -
They are called something like a sliding jaw or guide piece. The part is
about $10. you have to drill the head of the rivet part out to remove the
old one and the new one riveted back on. You have to remove the regulator
and it helps to have a vise or something to use as an anvil to buck or
me too!
Mark -
Before someone starts replacing parts I suggest that you have them do a
pressure test on the fuel injection and make sure that the pressures are all
in spec. BTW, when it doesn't start, is it only with a warm engine or when
it is cold as well?
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Bob -
Not sure on your 123 chassis. I replaced the door seals on my 107 and, if
memory serves me, HAH! most of it was held by plastic clips and maybe a few
screws. There is a small section that was to be glued on with some M/B
Universal Glue which seems to be nothing more than contact cement glue.
Neal -
Along the same line of thought as Jim, how about measuring the OD of the
new rotor. Could it possibly be too great of a diameter and sometimes
under the right conditions be rubbing inside the caliper?
Barry
after the rotors were replaced, this noise appeared.
Well, just reading the
Don -
I didn't see it in the vacuum diagram or on the wiring diagram for your car
but the manuals weren't very complete for those years. There does appear to
have been an air pump. possibly yours was removed. My '81 has a electrically
controlled vacuum valve (Switchover valve) that controls the
Curt -
If you have access, definitely replace the bad lumber if it is threatening
to affect the structural integrity of the house. When you replace that one
obvious member you may find that other adjacent framing members have been
infected as well and their damage may not be significant enough to
I believe George charges $100 to rebuild an aluminum bodied servo. I bet if
you follow Dan's list you will find the problem. George may be able to tell
you right away what the problem is. You might give him a call.
Barry
Yes it is. It served me well last summer. What do you reckon Murphy would
Jeff -
I also recommend Dan Stern. He has a kit that has the connectors for the
back of the high power H4s that won't melt. It also has a couple of relays,
relay sockets the crimp spades to connect to the relays and a couple of
healthy fuse holders with fuses. I was able to get the proper color
Ned -
I don't have a 124 manual to check out, but generally the steel ball is used
to plug an oil passage after it is drilled. You can't always machine a dead
end hole, so they drill all the way through and then plug the openings that
should end up closed. When you are trying to clean out any
Luther -
Could be, but it may be that one of the capacitors in the amp has gone bad.
May also be the sensor lead but it seems that was doing wieder stuff when I
has that malady. Best thing is to test your amp in another car or plug
theirs into your socket. Makes the troubleshooting much easier and
Don -
That is one thing I haven't had to replace yet on my '81 SL. Should be very
much the same setup as your '80 SL. I didn't go out and look at them, but
couldn't you just cut the clamps with a Dremel to get the old ones off and
then install new clamps in a more accessible location?
Barry
: [MBZ] 107 heater hoses replacement
Hmmm -- perhaps. The blower fan would have to come out to get the
Dremel tool in there -- I'll take another look and see ---
On 3/6/06, Barry Stark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don -
That is one thing I haven't had to replace yet on my '81 SL. Should be
very
Michael -
Not sure if this will help your problem but FWIW I was able to take apart
and clean the corrosion/oxidation on the contacts of the two driver's side
door switches on my '81SD.
Barry
Mac -
It is also good practice to put a line filter in the vacuum line. It looks
kinda like a inline paper element fuel filter. If the paper starts to turn
black then you know that oil is present and you can fix it before the vacuum
lines get contaminated again. I bet Marshall even has the part
A question, if I may, from you computer geek types out there. Here is the
issue...I just got my second TIVO, and as you folks may know, you can hook
your TIVOs to your area local network and transfer movies from one TIVO to
the other or to your computer. You can use either a wired network or a
John -
Sounds interesting. I sent the following message with my special concerns to
Netgear and a similar message to powerlines communications. It will be
interesting to see how they respond.
I would like to set up a wired network using your XE102 units between my PC
and a couple of TIVO DVR
Thanks folks for all your help on educating me and setting me straight. Well
I'm pretty sure that the phone line solution is out. First of all I don't
have enough conductors, and then the potential for damaging things is not
worth the risk. I'll look a little more into the system that uses the
Luther -
If you are serious take a really close look first. Trunk lid rust is a
typical 107 trait. That rust looks pretty advanced. Road dirt gets trapped
between the outer skin and the inner structure and absorbs moisture, causing
rust out. Best to just replace the trunk lid. Mine has been fixed
Don -
Just wanted to add that it is really a function of the compresson ratio of
the engine. If your compression ratio gets up towards 10:1 it really should
be running the good stuff. Most modern engines these days have knock sensors
or detonation sensors that retard the spark when it begins to
Uh-Oh, dangerous ground here folks. This is starting to ramp up. The next
step will invariably be flames and strong emotions. I suggest caution and
restraint. Most battles in the history of the world were fought over
religious beliefs.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi listers -
Noticed that my brake light occasionally stayed on for a few minutes and
then went off, but now it is on continually. Master cylinder reservoir
switches check out ok. Dropped the knee bolster and found that the parking
brake pedal is not returning all the way back and shutting off the
Kaleb -
I remember taking out the rear seat seat back. Can't remember if the shelf
has to come out too but when I had my shelf out I don't remember it being
very difficult.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent:
Randy -
Arco has had low sulphur fuel here in California for quite a while now and I
think I have run at least 5 or 6 tankfuls in my '81 SD. Take a look at this
link for more details.
http://www.ecdiesel.com/environment/ulsd_qa.asp#04
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Jim -
Now that I think of it, you're right of course. I was thinking of dispelling
the common misconception that all the water that drips out of the tailpipe
is just from the water that may condense out of the air onto the inner walls
of the exhaust system when the engine is shut off. Though there
Here's a question for those of you that know the intricate workings in
computers. I have a computer that has a ASUS A7V-VE motherboard and an
Athlon XP1800 + (AX1800DMT3C) CPU. It started having problems a while back
and I just set it aside. I had a few moments today to play with it, so I set
it
Jim -
Did the machine shop resurface the head? Some times the shops just run a
sanding block over it. Also, when you torqued down the head did you follow
an established torque pattern and use that pattern to torque the head down
in 3 or 4 successive levels of tightness. If you didn't torque it
Allan,Ed -
Not sure how Chrysler does their locks, but with GM stuff the dealer can cut
a new key using a code that the dealer can reference. It would be cut just
as new.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ed Booher
Sent: Sunday, January
Jim -
I was curious how you got the piston out of the rusted bore without beating
the crap out of it to get it out.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2005 3:45 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hmmm...must be a satisfied customer.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of tom savage
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 8:56 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list; Banned List
Subject: [MBZ] Adsit has a new website
For those of you on the West coast, I recommend Wolfgang's German Automatic
Transmission in Northridge. A bunch of the area indys pull the trannys out
and take them to Wolfie for the rebuild. He specializes in only MB, BMW,
Porsche trannys. He is a ZF expert, originally trained and worked in the
fuses?
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 8:28 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Intermittent blinkers
Wagongeist.
On 12/1/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Snow, or what passes for
How about removing the glowplugs and then attempt to rotate the crank. That
will tell you instantly if it is truly a hydrostatic lock situation. Also it
should then turn quite easily, no need to apply a lot of turning force and
compound any damage.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Gary -
The trouble is likely just that the belt has a fold in it and may be jammed
just behind where it goes into the panel. You could take the panel off and
inspect the run of the belt. The belts are getting pretty supple after all
these years and I have to be very careful when I unlatch my belts
Bruce -
The only quick test is the B2 only controls forward gears, it should still
have reverse. OTOH, he did say it went bang when it quit. I'm guessing it
may more likely be the B2 band that broke, not the piston.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Dennis -
I have read through this site before. As I recall this fellow only deals
with external, fender well mounted, regulators. I have had an ongoing
problem with my SD where I felt that the alternator voltage might be too
low. I installed a new Transpo adjustable regulator and adjusted the
I've had a very similar experience to Rob's. I still subscribe to this list
and the RE list. The various lists all have their strong points and their
disadvantages but they have managed to keep my interest for all these years.
So many folks out there that I would call a good friend though I've
The standard engine for the early Chevy IIs was the cast iron 4 banger. This
engine was the the same as the reliable workhorse 230 CID inline 6 cylinder
just missing two cylinders. Same bore and stroke etc. everything was just
shorter. GM did the same thing with their first aluminum 225 CID V-6
Kaleb -
Wow! Is that from rust?
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2005 10:18 AM
To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] anybody ever seen anything like this?
Wonder what it
Mitch -
Actually I have a very simlar problem on my '81 SD. I'm afraid I gave up
trying to figure just what is going on months ago, so I just put my charger
on it every few days. I did put an indicator on it for a while. I went to
Radio Shack and bought a 12V Sonalert. I extended the wire lengths
JJJ -
If Joe's program doesn't work for you, I use a free program called FTP
commander at ...
http://www.internet-soft.com/download.htm
Once you have downloaded this and installed it you would just enter a new
site and put Tarek's FTP site in the properties area. After that you just
click on his
Takek's FTP server
The 107 manual is mia from http://mb.braingears.com/, but so far as I
know there are still a couple of ftp sites from which they can be
snagged...? Anyone?
joe
does one go for the 107 manual on the
website?
Barry Stark wrote:
Takek's FTP server
telshena.dyndns.org
user name: Diesel, password: diesel
Marshall
Travas -
Now that's an original idea. Hook your A/C system up to manifold pressure to
evacuate the system or is this a diesel and you are using the engine's
vacuum pump. In any case I wonder how the A/C system likes the hydrocarbon
contaminants. What kind of system pressures have you achieved? I'm
Ken -
Of course when the piston moves down in the cylinder it creates a low
pressure area which is promply filled by the surrounding higher atmospheric
pressure. The difference here is that vergassers have a butterfly type
throttle that works by metering airflow to the engine. Diesels, OTOH, in
I sent my pressure check compilation file to Luther off list (about 1.7Mb).
I have also posted it on Tarek's FTP server if you are interested.
path is: Misc.articles/transmission/transmission manual(722.3)/transmission
oil pressure checks.pdf
It shows pressure ports with typical pressures and
George -
It doesn't take much wear to your rubbing block to start to throw off the
geometry of the points alignment. I've seen occasions where the gap is in
spec but the dwell isn't because the geometry is all wrong from wear of the
rubbing block. It's not always the contact surfaces that render
Mike -
You're missing the point Marshall is trying to make here. the Benz is
designed to rely on precision tolerances. This is very typical of German
machinery. The Japanese products are more along the lines of our stuff,
where they were designed with less critical tolerances. Just because one
Mike -
Well, I'm gonna have to disagree a bit. That may be the case in your
experience, but over the years I have personally seen all of these bearing
failures. Folks don't always adjust bearings properly or use the right kind
or amount of lubricant. Some car owners don't know the meaning of a
You need to read the manual.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of BenzBarn
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 5:24 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bad Wheel Bearings?
What's the dial indicator for? You guys go beyond dramatic..
Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes to fit,
it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we
make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature
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