Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-18 Thread John W. Reames III
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007, Roger Conlon wrote:

> Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
> degrees F, or would it be a no,no?
> I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't have a heated garage.


Intake is [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Exhaust for NA is [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Exhaust for Turbo is [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]

for intake, add 0.05mm for extended ambient temps below -20C

-j.





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Peter Frederick
In residential/apartement building use, the wood structure is the 
primary fuel for the fire.  With drywall on both side, the walls are 20 
min. fireproof at least, more if insulated, and don't contribute to the 
combustion, unlike wood.


Peter




[MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-18 Thread Roger Conlon
Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
degrees F, or would it be a no,no?

I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't have a heated garage.

_
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Re: [MBZ] OT The mighty fell My Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-18 Thread Steve MacSween
on 1/18/07 1:09 PM, Zoltan Finks at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I had left it with around three gallons of fuel in the tank for 8
> hours or so. I'd done that many times in the past in similar
> temperature. I filled up and hit the highway. I got about 5 miles and
> it just quit.

Was your observation on tank level based on memory of when last topped up,
or the gauge? Gauges can do odd things in the cold, on older cars.

You are more or less guaranteed to have condensation in the tank that can
freeze, unless you periodically use something to 'dry' out the fuel. You
might have ice blocking the sock on the pickup in the tank.

Mac




[MBZ] OT interesting vehicle Hanomag camper van $1500

2007-01-18 Thread kevin kraly

Anyone heard of these?

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/263324160.html

I just spotted this one on CL a few minutes ago.  It sounds quite 
interesting, especially for us who are into diesels.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] OT The mighty fell My Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-18 Thread Zoltan Finks

Yes, while I appreciate why they did it, the console "coke-catcher"
ignition is in a certain sense a design flaw.

Recently I found that ice had built up in there (sunroof leaks a bit,
and then it froze in the ignition switch). Some rubbing alcohol
usually cures it. I also took a lighter to the key.

Brian

On 1/18/07, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Those console-mounted ignition switches stuck down where salt and crud
could get to them, rotting them out.  I had a girlfriend at one time who
had an old Saab, she called me one day and said the car would not turn
off.  So I go there, and the switch was stuck "on" and could not be
"offed."  I can't remember what I did, I think maybe told her to drive
it to a shop where they replaced it.  At least she wasn't stranded by
not being able to "on" it.  Another buddy had a Saab, had to replace the
switch a time or two as well (and from junk falling in it from above).

I inferred that they don't use salt on the roads in Svenska, or carry
drinks, or have toddlers that emit upon them.

--R

Zoltan Finks wrote:
> It's pretty funny that we were just discussing broken down cars in the
> cold, and I touted Saabs as being well-designed for cold.
>
>
>


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Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread R A Bennell
One of the ladies who works for my wife just installed cheap laminate flooring 
in her kitchen because their
dishwasher leaked and ruined their vinyl floor and they had to redo it with 
something. They decided to test some
left over scrap to see what water would do to it. They put a couple of pieces 
in a bucket of water for a couple of
days. She was amazed. They couldn't tell the difference when they pulled it 
from the water. So, who knows?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Billr
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 12:17 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality


Just a quick note on flooring.  In S. Fla we had all tile [NEVER get white
floor tile ], but here we have a mixture of carpet, tile and wood.  A
few months ago I started seeing water squish up from between the floor
panels - quite exciting as it was in the middle of the house.  Turns out the
PO had installed the air handler in a front hall closet and put in a sump
pump, which had locked up.  Out comes the shop vac but I was quite concerned
about the wood floor.  PO said not to worry as it was solid wood and would
settle down fine when it dried out.  He was right, and you can't even tell
where it was wet.  It is my impression that laminate will not do that - or
is my information based on old technology?
BillR
Jacksonville FL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 1:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

On the topic of flooring: We have such an aversion to carpet for a multiple
reasons. A new-build house we're looking into says it has carpet and
hardwood floors.

My wife was wondering if we could get them to make the stairs and halls
hardwood. I told her that would probably be very expensive, because it was
not designed that way, and they'd have to design in the hardwood stairs just
for us.

Think so?

brian

Royce wrote:
On the subject of laminate flooring...I did just about the entire house with
it in our last house.  The rooms that didn't get it got commercial grade
carpet squares

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Gary Thompson

The Toyota Sienna transmission was an excellent example of how two
different entities can choose to deal with a problem in the field.

On the day before Thanksgiving in 1999, I was driving my 1998 Sienna
van through Waco, TX on IH35 when the transmission popped out of gear,
and started making a sickening death-rattle noise. Pulled into the
local Toyota dealer, who quickly pronounced my transmission toast. Had
all of 22K miles on it. Still under warranty. The dealer service
manager tells me "this never happens. You must have abused this
transmission." They agreed to replace it under warrany after several
hours of argument and several calls to Toyota's regional service guy.
Then they said I wasn't eligible to receive a rental replacement so I
could continue my trip. I was dumbfounded, as I know I had read this
should be covered in the warranty paperwork. I had to actually go out
to the van, pull out the warranty book, and show the manager the
relevant passages. I think my 3 and 4 year olds running around on the
sales floor was the only reason they finally relented. A nightmare.

Several months later I get a call from Toyota corporate graciously
appologizing for the inconvenience their bad transmission had caused.
When I told them the way I had been treated in their dealership, they
at least appeared to listen. Apparently, this transmission had been
used successfully in Camry chassis, but when placed in the Sienna, was
more prone to failure for some unspecified reason. They did stop short
of a recall, but at least extended the transmission warranty to 100K
miles.

Was I happy with the outcome from Toyota? yes. Would I ever step foot
in the Waco dealership again? Maybe to spit on their well-shined
floors...


Gary Thompson
Georgetown, TX
1984 300D   (22 year old Mercedes)
1995 E320  (11 year old Mercedes)
2005 RX330 (What, no new Mercedes?)


On 1/14/07, John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Yes, that and testing. A friend of mine a few years back  bought a
new toyota van (new model, first year of production) and proceeded to
put
50,000 miles on it in the first year.  They got a phone call a year
out saying Toyota wanted their transmission, if they agreeded they'd
get a
new one, some perks etc.  So said transmission was replaced and the
used one sent back to Japan with the comment they had talked to the
top N% users of this new transmission and sent lots back to Japan so
they could determine if the transmission in the publics hands behaved
the same as their expectations.

In this case if there was any corrective action to be taken, or could
be taken it would likely occur before the majority of drivers would
approach the same usage.




Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Billr
You do it and I'll come watch the elephant...
BillR 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John W. Reames III
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 2:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

Another option is to build a composite beam; use 3x 2x12's with "fletch
plates" in them Drill holes on hex packing, two rows and bolt it all
together. You can probably have an elephant tap-dance on one of them.
-j.



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Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

2007-01-18 Thread John W. Reames III
On Wed, 17 Jan 2007, Luther wrote:

> I'm in the market right now for 10-20 acres, house or not.  If I find 
> something without a house, I would build a 30'x30' 2 story barn.  Inside 
> would be a 2nd floor studio type apartment with 2 car garage workshop below.  
> I might make larger...depends on how much the land would set me back 
> ($1500-3000/acre local market) and how much loan the bank will give me.

You could probably sell the devel rights to a preservation trust and then 
rent out some of the land to someoen to farm it seems like a nice 
system to help with the financing!
-j.





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread John W. Reames III
Another option is to build a composite beam; use 3x 2x12's with "fletch 
plates" in them Drill holes on hex packing, two rows and bolt it all 
together. You can probably have an elephant tap-dance on one of them.
-j.





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Allan Streib
A few brands of laminate floor are billed as being totally waterproof
but most laminate floors even the genuine Pergo will swell permanently
and/or disintegrate if water gets into the sides or under the boards.

I'd never install it in a bathroom, though the manufactures will tell
you it can be done by using waterproof glue and sealing all around the
perimeter.

Allan

"Billr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> Just a quick note on flooring.  In S. Fla we had all tile [NEVER get
> white floor tile ], but here we have a mixture of carpet, tile
> and wood.  A few months ago I started seeing water squish up from
> between the floor panels - quite exciting as it was in the middle of
> the house.  Turns out the PO had installed the air handler in a
> front hall closet and put in a sump pump, which had locked up.  Out
> comes the shop vac but I was quite concerned about the wood floor.
> PO said not to worry as it was solid wood and would settle down fine
> when it dried out.  He was right, and you can't even tell where it
> was wet.  It is my impression that laminate will not do that - or is
> my information based on old technology?  BillR Jacksonville FL

-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] OT The mighty fell My Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-18 Thread Rich Thomas
Those console-mounted ignition switches stuck down where salt and crud 
could get to them, rotting them out.  I had a girlfriend at one time who 
had an old Saab, she called me one day and said the car would not turn 
off.  So I go there, and the switch was stuck "on" and could not be 
"offed."  I can't remember what I did, I think maybe told her to drive 
it to a shop where they replaced it.  At least she wasn't stranded by 
not being able to "on" it.  Another buddy had a Saab, had to replace the 
switch a time or two as well (and from junk falling in it from above).


I inferred that they don't use salt on the roads in Svenska, or carry 
drinks, or have toddlers that emit upon them.


--R

Zoltan Finks wrote:

It's pretty funny that we were just discussing broken down cars in the
cold, and I touted Saabs as being well-designed for cold.


  





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Rich Thomas
Doing the hall would not be an issue -- just lay down hardwood.  Though 
you will need to consider door thresholds/opening and such as the wood 
is 3/4" thick.  Carpet and pad have some thickness, close to that so it 
might not be a big issue. 

Stairs are possible but it depends on how they are done now -- you would 
have to look at them.  Issues are trim, floor/tread/floor height (again 
adding 3/4" to treads), and rails, etc.  On stairs you usually use solid 
treads (not strips), which can be 3/4" to over an inch thick.


If none of this is done yet, you are in luck.  Just specify wood instead 
of carpet, let them build it out that way.  I can't imagine they don't 
do this as an option or spec, so it should not be a huge change.  Wood 
will likely cost more (than cheap builder's carpet) but it will last 
longer and look nicer with little care required.  Pay now for wood or 
pay later for regular carpet cleaning, replacement, etc.  Note that the 
new manf wood flooring (the good stuff) has an extremely hard and 
durable finish on it, applied in the factory, that is much better than 
site-applied varnish, and comes in many flavors.


--R

Zoltan Finks wrote:

My wife was wondering if we could get them to make the stairs and
halls hardwood. I told her that would probably be very expensive,
because it was not designed that way, and they'd have to design in the
hardwood stairs just for us.

  





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Billr
Just a quick note on flooring.  In S. Fla we had all tile [NEVER get white
floor tile ], but here we have a mixture of carpet, tile and wood.  A
few months ago I started seeing water squish up from between the floor
panels - quite exciting as it was in the middle of the house.  Turns out the
PO had installed the air handler in a front hall closet and put in a sump
pump, which had locked up.  Out comes the shop vac but I was quite concerned
about the wood floor.  PO said not to worry as it was solid wood and would
settle down fine when it dried out.  He was right, and you can't even tell
where it was wet.  It is my impression that laminate will not do that - or
is my information based on old technology?
BillR
Jacksonville FL 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 1:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

On the topic of flooring: We have such an aversion to carpet for a multiple
reasons. A new-build house we're looking into says it has carpet and
hardwood floors.

My wife was wondering if we could get them to make the stairs and halls
hardwood. I told her that would probably be very expensive, because it was
not designed that way, and they'd have to design in the hardwood stairs just
for us.

Think so?

brian

Royce wrote:
On the subject of laminate flooring...I did just about the entire house with
it in our last house.  The rooms that didn't get it got commercial grade
carpet squares

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[MBZ] OT The mighty fell My Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-18 Thread Zoltan Finks

It's pretty funny that we were just discussing broken down cars in the
cold, and I touted Saabs as being well-designed for cold.

For the first time, mine let me down. It was about 5 below zero and I
was on the highway. Best I can guess, there's frozen water in the fuel
lines?

I had left it with around three gallons of fuel in the tank for 8
hours or so. I'd done that many times in the past in similar
temperature. I filled up and hit the highway. I got about 5 miles and
it just quit.

I noticed as I tried to restart it that the electric fuel pump sounds
different - more labored perhaps. Hoping that warmer temps and some
"Heet" may solve it. We haven't been in the habit of putting any money
in the car - just using it 'til something big goes wrong.

Brian
84 Saab 900



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Zoltan Finks

On the topic of flooring: We have such an aversion to carpet for a
multiple reasons. A new-build house we're looking into says it has
carpet and hardwood floors.

My wife was wondering if we could get them to make the stairs and
halls hardwood. I told her that would probably be very expensive,
because it was not designed that way, and they'd have to design in the
hardwood stairs just for us.

Think so?

brian

Royce wrote:
On the subject of laminate flooring...I did just about the entire house with
it in our last house.  The rooms that didn't get it got commercial grade
carpet squares



Re: [MBZ] This will blind you

2007-01-18 Thread Zoltan Finks

I'm trying to imagine that thing with some of the grey-brown masses
that form at the back of the wheel wells during winter driving and
grow until their weight is too great and they fall like a big rock.
Worlds would be colliding.

Brian
whose 240D does not see masses

On 1/17/07, Redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Waste of a reasonably ok car.  Might be able to confuse speed radar

http://www.break.com/pictures/jan4gal3128.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] OT: houses

2007-01-18 Thread LarryT
You could always buy the place and demolish the house and build a new one. 
I may be mistaken but I believe there's some alternatives to septic systems 
now - smaller self contained chemical (?) waste systems.

;-)  Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: houses





kevin kraly wrote:


Now that sounds like quite the garage!  If you bought that for $40K, you
would still have enough to add onto the house or tear it down and rebuild 
to

meet your needs.


I talked to the realtor today, unfortunately didn't get a hold of him
until after lunch so I can't get inside until tomorrow. Bad news is the
bathroom needs floor replacement, the well didn't pass inspection,
there is no septic system (at least not by modern standards) and
the residency permit has been revoked, not to be restored until
everything meets current codes. Rats. Around here, that place would
be worth maybe 80k all fixed up, and I know of $20k worth of fixing
that needs to be done, with who knows how many surprises lurking.
I had been thinking $20k for the lot, $10k for the garage, $15k
for well and septic, and if the whole package was $40k the house
could be considered free. That changes if it doesn't come with
useable well or septic, in an area where drainfields don't come
cheap due to high water table.

I think I'd be better off with a larger $25k lot and a big pile of
building materials. Should I build a house with attached garage,
or save $10-20k and build a 45x72 barn and build a house inside it?
The former would have $70k more resale value, the latter would be
more my style.
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread LarryT

Brian wrote:<>

I know the feeling well!  We lived in a home on the intracoastal waterway in 
eat Tx that had steel columns in each corner to protect against Hurricanes - 
and a huge cooling tower in the backyard for the AC system along with a 
switch in the hall that would close a flap in the ducts to close off the 
front half of the house.  Neat stuff - lights in all closets that came on 
when the door was opened and so many more things I can;t recall.  It was 
built in 190? by the guy who founded Texaco.  A reallly neat house I could 
have bought in 1978 for $28K  Sigh...


Then there's the house in Va - was a civil war hospital and headquarters on 
several 100s acres of land over looking the James River - we rented for 
$450/mo in mid 80s.  almost 6000 sq ft with almost zero closet space.  But a 
neat house with history and a slate roof.


We've been lucky enough to live in many great places as we moved all over 
the eastern half of the US - Tn, Va and SC were my favorites - although all 
were nice except Ill which we couldn;t stand - left after 3 months. ;-)


Oh well  great memories -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality



Thanks - keep info. coming - I can use all, as I have no experience in all
this.

We, too, have a nice secure feeling in our current 1918 built house which 
is
in a neighborhood about 5 blocks from the Mayo Clinic. I think that 
perhaps

there was quality construction in this neighborood.

As I am with most things, I am very suspicious about built quality and
especially the practices of the individual worker, even the designers. 
Human
laziness and greed tends to ruin a lot of things. Wish we could pick up 
our

house and take it with us when we move.

brian

Tony wrote:
I'm confident that our old and creaky 200 year old house will be here
in another 40-50 years when these houses across the way are being torn
down.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: VW Passat

2007-01-18 Thread mykd1
Once the problem was resolved and the light reset all should be good. If you 
didn't get the light after driving 30 miles you should be all set :) 
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 135,000 Miles
72 350SL   118,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 11:37 AM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: VW Passat


 Thanks for everyones help, You guys rock.  Turns out it was just a bad plug ( 
I 
hope ) . Check engine light was reset. Drove it about 30 miles at both high and 
slow speeds.  If there is still a problem, generally how long will it take for 
the check engine light to come back on? Thanks again.

Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security 
tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free 
AOL Mail and more.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-18 Thread kevin kraly

a $250 '89 Audi 90
Quattro, which will probably become my beater winter car.

There was an '89 Audi 90Q on Craigslist with 197K miles on it for $2000 in 
nice shape with good mechanicals.  The ad stated that it was a reliable car 
that would run forever.  I've never owned any other German cars besides 
Mercedes'.  Dad owned a couple '67  vW Baja bugs and a stock '73 bug, and 
the most recent VW, an '03 Jetta 2.0L manny tranny that was quite a fun car 
that seemed to use it's 115hp very well.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

2007-01-18 Thread Luther
I'm in the market right now for 10-20 acres, house or not.  If I find something 
without a house, I would build a 30'x30' 2 story barn.  Inside would be a 2nd 
floor studio type apartment with 2 car garage workshop below.  I might make 
larger...depends on how much the land would set me back ($1500-3000/acre local 
market) and how much loan the bank will give me.


From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 17:45:13 -0500
Reply-to: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: houses

Mitch wrote:
>  Now that sounds like quite the garage!  If you bought that for $40K, you
> would still have enough to add onto the house or tear it down and rebuild to
> meet your needs.

I talked to the realtor today, unfortunately didn't get a hold of him
until after lunch so I can't get inside until tomorrow. Bad news is the
bathroom needs floor replacement, the well didn't pass inspection,
there is no septic system (at least not by modern standards) and
the residency permit has been revoked, not to be restored until
everything meets current codes. Rats. Around here, that place would
be worth maybe 80k all fixed up, and I know of $20k worth of fixing
that needs to be done, with who knows how many surprises lurking.
I had been thinking $20k for the lot, $10k for the garage, $15k
for well and septic, and if the whole package was $40k the house
could be considered free. That changes if it doesn't come with
useable well or septic, in an area where drainfields don't come
cheap due to high water table.

I think I'd be better off with a larger $25k lot and a big pile of
building materials. Should I build a house with attached garage,
or save $10-20k and build a 45x72 barn and build a house inside it?
The former would have $70k more resale value, the latter would be
more my style.
Mitch.


-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case?
'83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale
'82 300CD (163 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread David Brodbeck
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> standard for industrial construction and should be for any multifamily
>> structure (they don't burn easily, for instance).
>> 
>
> But they do melt.  Tests show that wood beams hold up longer in
> fires than steel, due to the self-insulating capabilities of wood.
>   

This would be why commercial buildings almost always have that
fuzzy-looking insulation on the structural steel members.  The steel
doesn't even have to get hot enough to melt for it to be substantially
weakened.



Re: [MBZ] Heater Monovalve questions

2007-01-18 Thread Jim Cathey

I am freezing my butt off driving my car.  I have no heat and I believe
several folks on the list agreed it was the monovalve, but I just want
to make sure.


So pull it out (four screws, 5 minute job) and see if the solenoid
is full of water and/or the rubber diaphragm is torn.  Unplug its
connector and you should be getting full heat all the time.

It's your monovalve.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Jim Cathey

standard for industrial construction and should be for any multifamily
structure (they don't burn easily, for instance).


But they do melt.  Tests show that wood beams hold up longer in
fires than steel, due to the self-insulating capabilities of wood.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-18 Thread Zeitgeist

Follow up:

We ended up getting her a '94 Audi 100 CS Quattro wagon.  It's quite nice,
and the V6 engine bay has tons of room (which I'll need when I change the
timing belt in 45k).  Dark Green metallic with black leather, heated seats
and a rear diff lock.  It drives and handles nice, and feels
substantial...but, not quite MB substantial.

Oh, and I convinced myself that I needed to pick up a $250 '89 Audi 90
Quattro, which will probably become my beater winter car.

On 1/1/07, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I'm presently wrestling with the wife over which vehicle we'll get to
replace her aging 123 clunker.  She's adamantly convinced she needs an AWD
vehicle for her alpine-related program activities (x-country ski, hike,
snowshoe, etc.), but I think it's stoopid to lug all that 4WD stuff around
for the rest of the 99.% time you don't need it.  I don't think logic
is going to prevail, so...does anyone know much about the Audi Allroador A6 
Avant Quattro, etc.?  They seem like a nifty rig, if you're into that
sort of thing.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (220k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
'89 Audi 90Q (202k)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


[MBZ] This will blind you

2007-01-18 Thread Redghost

Waste of a reasonably ok car.  Might be able to confuse speed radar

http://www.break.com/pictures/jan4gal3128.html
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




[MBZ] Parts [was: Re: 124 floor heat]

2007-01-18 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 19:10:30 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Im all out of blower motors at the moment,

How about 4- and 6-terminal connector bodies?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-18 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 21:35:34 -0800 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> (Unless my mental movie is haywire again.)

Here's some visual stimulation: http://www.keveney.com/Engines.html


Craig



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Peter Frederick

Now, if I were a materials engineer, I could answer that.

The I-beam that holds up our house is 8" by 4" flange, I think. maybe 
10", I've not measured.  I think there are three posts along the 
length.


I was talking steel replacements for 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, and 2x12 wood, 
standard for industrial construction and should be for any multifamily 
structure (they don't burn easily, for instance).


The only thing going for TGI is stiffness, and that's at the expense of 
load capacity.  They are, I believe, supposed to be spaced closer than 
16" for floors (12" probably), and MUST be braced exactly perpendicular 
to the floor, otherwise they have less strength by any measure than 1x 
planking.


Depending on what type of  roof you are putting up, trusses can be 
spaced at 8 ft with purlings between for sheet steel roofing.  Again, 
you can use sheet steel trusses instead of wood.


For residential roof, I think the spacing is 16 or 24" depending on 
local code and the roofing you are using.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Heater Monovalve questions

2007-01-18 Thread OK Don

A) - the center vents should only have airflow while in cooling mode -
non while in heating mode.
B) - buttons - you're using the "Economy" mode - the AC compressor
never turns on.
The middle button - outline Up arrow and solid Down arrow - gives full
auto control with most of the air out the normal vents, and a little
out the defroster vents.
The button next to the defrost gives equal defrost vent and regular
vent air - use it when the windshield starts to fog, but you don't
want full heat.
I leave mine on the center button except for those rare special
situations that require more defrost. I'd only use the EC button if
the car was threatening to overheat, or I was running on fumes. The AC
compressor needs to be used to keep it in good working order.

On 1/17/07, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:




Though, I am wondering if I have other ACC issues.  I normally run
with first button inboard on the right selected (righmost button being
"off").  I let the blower speed auto-adjust.  With the dial set for
heat, and cold outdoor temps, I get some airflow out the floor vents,
some out the the side vents, and very little (but detectable) air flow
out the center vents.  The airflow is not what I would consider
high-volume (compared to other cars I've owned) even when the interior
is below the set temperatire and the blower is running on the highest
automatic speed.

Overall question, does this sound normal?  Temperature regulation does
seem to work, though it does take some time for the interior to attain
the set temperature.

I'm not sure what any of the middle buttons do.  Does not seem to make
a lot of difference which one I select.  The solid/outlined up and
down arrows have no intuitive meaning to me.

Defrost (the far left button) works fine.

Allan

--
1983 300D
1966 230

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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there."
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] [MB] How cold it was

2007-01-18 Thread John W. Reames III
On Wed, 17 Jan 2007, Dave Wakin wrote:

> On the bright side, it was 25F in my unheated attached garage, and the 97 
> e320 started right up.

But gassers don't count.
-j.





Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-18 Thread Aaron Lam

If you have an early 87, there's two round pods that control floor
heat, one for each side. The early style is a bit of a PITA to replace
because of the friction-fit press washers. The later style uses a
single flat rectangular pod to operate both flaps, and it's a lot
easier to replace. FWIW, I was able to R&R the early style pods by
removing only the climate control unit.

-Aaron

On 1/17/07, Ralph W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

So I'm a bit confused. How many pods control the floor heat? Is it better to
just buy new or alot cheaper to rebuild? I think I'll start by pulling the
radio as it's also due for replacement and see what's accessable from there.




Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-18 Thread Ralph W
So I'm a bit confused. How many pods control the floor heat? Is it better to 
just buy new or alot cheaper to rebuild? I think I'll start by pulling the 
radio as it's also due for replacement and see what's accessable from there.


Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat



I need to do the same in my 87 300TD. Wondering if I can R&R like Peter
described (I've had the replacement pods for a long time) or whether I'm
going to have to do something more difficult to get the failed one(s) out.

...Kevin

p.s. Kaleb - do you have a W123 heater blower motor you'd sell?

Aaron Lam said:

Ralph,

Fortunately these pods are among the easier ones to replace. Early
87's have two pods (a bit of a PITA to R&R because of the pressed on
lock washers) and early models have a single pod which unclips easily.
They're accessible after removing the climate control unit.

-Aaron
1987 300D

On 1/16/07, Ralph W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under
the dash of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but
nothing going to the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps
to the floor is bad. Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've
fixed a 123 from the side panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's
too darn cold to drive without floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs
just doesn't get it.


___
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--
"Thank God for Microsoft" -- Linus Torvalds

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Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-18 Thread Ralph W
Check back early next week. I may have one if my wrecked wagon doesn't sell 
as a complete vehicle this weekend. The parting out process will begin.


Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat



Im all out of blower motors at the moment,

Kevin J. Slater wrote:


I need to do the same in my 87 300TD. Wondering if I can R&R like Peter
described (I've had the replacement pods for a long time) or whether I'm
going to have to do something more difficult to get the failed one(s) 
out.


...Kevin

p.s. Kaleb - do you have a W123 heater blower motor you'd sell?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Heater Monovalve questions

2007-01-18 Thread Allan Streib
David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>> Then it's the monovalve or the crumbly foam connector pipe behind
>> the glovebox.
>
> If it were the crumbly connector pipe he'd still get heat in defrost
> mode, which ignores the temperature sender.  It's almost got to be
> the monovalve.

I tend to agree.  I had intermittent heat in my 300D (was getting more
and more intermittent, i.e. COLD).  I installed a new monovalve
insert, and it's now working again.

Though, I am wondering if I have other ACC issues.  I normally run
with first button inboard on the right selected (righmost button being
"off").  I let the blower speed auto-adjust.  With the dial set for
heat, and cold outdoor temps, I get some airflow out the floor vents,
some out the the side vents, and very little (but detectable) air flow
out the center vents.  The airflow is not what I would consider
high-volume (compared to other cars I've owned) even when the interior
is below the set temperatire and the blower is running on the highest
automatic speed.

Overall question, does this sound normal?  Temperature regulation does
seem to work, though it does take some time for the interior to attain
the set temperature.

I'm not sure what any of the middle buttons do.  Does not seem to make
a lot of difference which one I select.  The solid/outlined up and
down arrows have no intuitive meaning to me.

Defrost (the far left button) works fine.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] OT Houses

2007-01-18 Thread Royce Engler
Mitch said...

That changes if it doesn't come with useable well or septic, in an area
where drainfields don't come
cheap due to high water table

Around here (north of Houston), septic is pretty much not
allowed...everybody uses aerobic systems like www.aerobicsystems.net Seems
to work pretty well.  Kind of a miniature version of what the municipal
sewage treatment plants use.

Royce Engler

1985 300TD Turbo 293K





Re: [MBZ] OT recumbant side-by-side was Re: The big test

2007-01-18 Thread OK Don

Cool -- thanks!

On 1/17/07, kevin kraly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

OK Don,

Here's a link to the web site with all the info.

http://www.blackbirdbikes.com/



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there."
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Im all out of blower motors at the moment,

Kevin J. Slater wrote:


I need to do the same in my 87 300TD. Wondering if I can R&R like Peter
described (I've had the replacement pods for a long time) or whether I'm
going to have to do something more difficult to get the failed one(s) out.

...Kevin

p.s. Kaleb - do you have a W123 heater blower motor you'd sell?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] 87 Mercedes Benz Turbo - $800

2007-01-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Im thinking about it.

Ralph W wrote:

Boy it sure would be nice to have a donor car available when working on the 
new wagon!


Kaleb, come get this thing before I do something stupid.

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Knoble" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:38 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 87 Mercedes Benz Turbo - $800




http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/263637591.html

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] foreclosure was Re: The big test

2007-01-18 Thread Mitch Haley


Rick Knoble wrote:
> What's the unemployment rate in MI now-a-days? Around 10-12%? There may be
> more of them there foreclosures soon...

"seasonally adjusted" = 6.9% for Michigan in November, much of that is
likely around Detroit. 4-5% seems more likely around Lansing. 

Mitch.



Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

haha, thats funny.

OK Don wrote:


I remember (barely) a Road and Track article on the115 - I think it
was in 1975 when the 300D 617 came out, where they described the car
as "the most over-engineered 1955 Chevy" ever.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Royce Engler
On the subject of laminate flooring...I did just about the entire house with
it in our last house.  The rooms that didn't get it got commercial grade
carpet squares.  It seemed pretty durable, but the thing I didn't like about
it was that it was noisy when you walk on it.  Sin the current house
we put down vinyl strip flooring that has wood grain on it.  Float the slab,
put down the adhesive and lay down the strips.  Looks just about as good as
the laminate, but it's QUIET and soft when you walk on it.  Even feels kind
of warm.  Seller (Freddie Mac repo) put in new carpet when we bought it, but
when that wears out, we'll do the commercial carpet squares again.  I love
old technology, but I sure like the new how the new stuff performs when it's
done right.

Royce Engler

1985 300TD Turbo 293K





Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-18 Thread Mitch Haley


Jim Cathey wrote:
> Sounds promising.  24x36 is a nice 3-car size, into which you can
> usually jam two more toy cars sideways at the front if you don't
> cram it too full of other crap. 

This one has an office and workshop in the back on one end.
I figure a 300SD will fit crossways in front of those rooms.
The other half of the garage can hold a Taurus and 190E parked
normally, with a 190D sideways in front of them. 

If I were to build a detached garage for myself, it would be
24x48 or 30x40. (or I'd build a 45x72x14 and rent out winter
storage space, one of the lots I'm looking at is within
walking distance of a freeway exit)
Mitch.



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread David Brodbeck
Mitch Haley wrote:
> I googled that to make sure what you were talking about (OSB I-Beam).
> Google gave me lots of links to builders who explained why TGI was
> far superior to 2x12. ;-)

Before using OSB I-beams, you might want to check with your local fire
department.  When they first became popular, I vaguely remember some
fire chiefs saying they wouldn't send their guys into a house that had
them.  Apparently they burn through and collapse much more quickly than
solid wood beams.





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-18 Thread Mitch Haley


Peter Frederick wrote:
> 
> TGI trusses are horrible, 

I googled that to make sure what you were talking about (OSB I-Beam).
Google gave me lots of links to builders who explained why TGI was
far superior to 2x12. ;-) They forgot to mention cheap. The optional
upgrade seems to be built up trusses, which I had been thinking
about using for ease of use. A 28' would cost me about $70 though,
making it more expensive than the roof trusses, and I'd need twice
as many.

> Use steel 

How big a floor I-Beam do you need to span 28'?
And how far apart can you space them?

Mitch.