date:20081103

I took two 300E's well past 300,000 miles and saw no electrical issues with
either. But you are right, it's easy to tell the difference.

If the jumping around is random then it's electrical. If it's not so random
(pulsing at idle, drops at warm-up) then its not electrical.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 8:18 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

Well these guages are electrical, its quite obvious to look at it that its
jumping around from electrical issues.  When I had it it would jump up to
3 at idle often.  Quite common problem on these cars.

 My experience has always been main bearing problem = low oil pressure at
 speed.
 Seems like the viscosity may be too low -
 It's *supposed* to go to the peg by 3000rpm =

 For a 300E gasser I'd run 15W50 year round -
 possibly 20W50 if available and it is a hot area of the country -

 Sincerely,
 Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
 www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
 Porsche Posters/Weber parts
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:49 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)


I don't think you are being anal. Oil pressure that bounces between 0 - 1
 BAR at idle  then goes full scale at road speed is not the gauge, it's
 the
 oil pump or main bearings!

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
 Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:04 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

 Is that the gauge or the sending unit? I'd like to fix it.

 Just so you don't think I am totally anal -- not yet to be ruled out --
 I
 had the philosophy drilled into my head for years that you *trust your
 gauges* (while having fun way up there in the sky, and actually being
 paid
 to do it) and react accordingly. If oil pressure falls to 0 on one of
 the
 engines, you don't say, Oh, the gauge is flaky. You beat feet for the
 nearest airport and review your feather-engine checklist.

 Occupational hazard I just can't seem to shake.

 On Sun, Nov 2, 2008 at 7:54 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Nont to worry about the oil pressure, the guage on that car is a little
 flakey.  It will bounce from about 1 or so to 0 at idle.  Real reading
 is
 about 1 to 1.5.



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 7:56 PM


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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

2008-11-03 Thread Gary Hurst

i hate to agree with kleb, but i think he is right here.  according to the
gauge, the ex wife's 300E was driving with zero oil pressue at idle for
years, which then shot up to 3 bar when driving.  then i changed the sender
and now it is pretty normal.

if you are really running the car with no oil pressure, problems would
become manifest pretty quickly.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 9:17 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Well these guages are electrical, its quite obvious to look at it that its
 jumping around from electrical issues.  When I had it it would jump up to
 3 at idle often.  Quite common problem on these cars.

  My experience has always been main bearing problem = low oil pressure at
  speed.
  Seems like the viscosity may be too low -
  It's *supposed* to go to the peg by 3000rpm =
 
  For a 300E gasser I'd run 15W50 year round -
  possibly 20W50 if available and it is a hot area of the country -
 
  Sincerely,
  Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
  www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
  Porsche Posters/Weber parts
  .
  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:49 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)
 
 
 I don't think you are being anal. Oil pressure that bounces between 0 - 1
  BAR at idle  then goes full scale at road speed is not the gauge, it's
  the
  oil pump or main bearings!
 
  Thanks,
  Tom Hargrave
  www.kegkits.com
  256-656-1924
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
  Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:04 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)
 
  Is that the gauge or the sending unit? I'd like to fix it.
 
  Just so you don't think I am totally anal -- not yet to be ruled out --
  I
  had the philosophy drilled into my head for years that you *trust your
  gauges* (while having fun way up there in the sky, and actually being
  paid
  to do it) and react accordingly. If oil pressure falls to 0 on one of
  the
  engines, you don't say, Oh, the gauge is flaky. You beat feet for the
  nearest airport and review your feather-engine checklist.
 
  Occupational hazard I just can't seem to shake.
 
  On Sun, Nov 2, 2008 at 7:54 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Nont to worry about the oil pressure, the guage on that car is a little
  flakey.  It will bounce from about 1 or so to 0 at idle.  Real reading
  is
  about 1 to 1.5.
 
 
 
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1761 - Release Date:
  11/1/2008
  7:56 PM
 
 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1761 - Release Date:
  11/1/2008
  7:56 PM
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] bcs whining some more

2008-11-03 Thread Gary Hurst

nearly anybody over penn state.  i wouldn't rate penn state as a top 10 team
and maybe not even top 15 or 20.  i'd take georgia tech over penn state
today, let alone the real football powers.



On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 10:18 AM, Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

 Yep, Texas came out flat in the first half and didn't look like they
 deserved the #1 ranking. Too many back-to-back weeks against top 10
 competition probably took a toll mentally. Now Tech has to face the
 same gauntlet. If they can get by Oklahome and Oklahoma State, they
 deserve to be playing in the big one come January.

 Alabama looks pretty strong so far, but their remaining schedule is
 pretty tough too. I hate to say this, but I'd almost rather see USC in
 there over Penn State, and I ain't no USC fan!


 Gary Thompson
 Austin, TX   still a horns fan


 On Sun, Nov 2, 2008 at 6:33 AM, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  As mentioned previously, Texas and Alabama would not run the table.
  Frankly, I didn't think either one of them would and still don't think.
  Texas Tech is the last big 12 team with a shot at displacing Penn State
 in
  the title game.  To do this, they had to beat number 1 Texas last night
 and
  top 10 teams Oklahoma State and Oklahoma in the next two games.  Then
 they
  have to win the Big 12 title game.   The odds are not good.  On the SEC
  side, Alabama will have to win out against 2 good conference teams and
 then
  beat Florida, who in my estimation is the best team in the nation right
 now.
 
  Meanwhile, Penn State has be beat a pretty crappy Iowa team to continue
  their sham.

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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

Do you have Autozone out there? Our Autozone has all (or most anyway) of the 
weights of Mobil 1 including 5w40 (my current fave).
If they don't have it be sure to ask and when the counter weenie gives you no 
satisfaction make sure you write to Autozone with your tale of displeasure. The 
regional guy will give you a CALL (mine did anyway) and probably fix the 
problem.

In my case I was complaining that the store I go to doesn't stock enough 5w40, 
they were getting 1 case of 5w40 every 2 weeks and it was always gone. When the 
guy called he said that was a good thing because it ment they were meeting 
demand. I pointed out that meeting demand ment there would be one there when 
I demanded it, thus my demand... He seemed to understand and the counter weenie 
tells me they now get 2 cases every 2 weeks. 4 times a year I go in and buy all 
of them...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 18:58:30 -0600
From: Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
    [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Mobil 1 web site recommends 0W-40 for my 300E. Not to be found around here,
even at the Mega SuperWalMart in Ames. They had a shelf tag for it but when
I asked the automotive manager about availability, he sort of laughed. Not a
lost conversation though, because I think he is going to up his stock of
15W-50 after our chat about diesel Benz oil recommendations.

Given that I have successfully used 15W-50 in my 240D, I can't see any
reason why I can't run it in my 300E. The 15W-50 flows well in really cold
temperatures and I can't see any downside of having -40 rather than -50.

As an aside, the local Goodyear shop chose to pour in Kendall 5W-30 (the
invoice said semi-synthetic, whatever that means) when I had them do an
oil change 400 miles ago. After driving at 75 mph on I-35 from Des Moines to
Ames, the oil pressure needle was bouncing off of the 0 stop when I hit
stoplights on Duff Avenue. (That makes sense only to Loren.) That makes me
nervous. I reminded myself that my 240D drops the needle at stoplights and
it has run nicely for a couple of years now.



  
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Re: [MBZ] #22 head?

2008-11-03 Thread Trampas

HAhahaha... I was looking for a used one that might be cheaper.

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 9:42 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] #22 head?

I do!


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 5:23 PM
Subject: [MBZ] #22 head?


 If anyone has a #22 head for sale let me know. 
 
 
 
 Trampas
 
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Re: [MBZ] bcs whining some more

2008-11-03 Thread Donald Snook

Gary T. wrote: Yep, Texas came out flat in the first half and didn't look like 
they deserved the #1 ranking. Too many back-to-back weeks against top 10 
competition probably took a toll mentally. Now Tech has to face the same 
gauntlet. If they can get by Oklahome and Oklahoma State, they deserve to be 
playing in the big one come January.

Whoever comes out of the Big 12 South has to get past Missouri in the Big 12 
Championship. Unfortunately, the Big 12 is so loaded with good teams that they 
beat up on each and hurt our chances of playing for the National Title. BUT, I 
agree with you, if there is a Big 12 South team that makes it out with only 1 
loss and they beat Mizzou in the Big 12 Championship, then they deserve to play 
for the title.  NO other team would have been through such a bruising battle by 
they time they win their conference championship.


Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] #22 head?

2008-11-03 Thread Luther

I purchased my used head on Ebay for $600.  Came with the camshaft, 
injectors, and prechambers.


Luther

Trampas wrote:

HAhahaha... I was looking for a used one that might be cheaper.

Trampas

  

--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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Re: [MBZ] bcs whining some more

2008-11-03 Thread Luther

So, Penn St stays undefeated and no Big 12 or SEC school remains 
undefeated, who gets the shaft?  Penn St deserves it, but either the Big 
12 or SEC will get it


Luther

Donald Snook wrote:

Gary T. wrote: Yep, Texas came out flat in the first half and didn't look like they 
deserved the #1 ranking. Too many back-to-back weeks against top 10 competition probably 
took a toll mentally. Now Tech has to face the same gauntlet. If they can get by Oklahome 
and Oklahoma State, they deserve to be playing in the big one come January.

Whoever comes out of the Big 12 South has to get past Missouri in the Big 12 
Championship. Unfortunately, the Big 12 is so loaded with good teams that they 
beat up on each and hurt our chances of playing for the National Title. BUT, I 
agree with you, if there is a Big 12 South team that makes it out with only 1 
loss and they beat Mizzou in the Big 12 Championship, then they deserve to play 
for the title.  NO other team would have been through such a bruising battle by 
they time they win their conference championship.


Donald H. Snook
  

--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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[MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

So car-part.com found me a diff for my 190D 2.2l 5spd in New Jersey. They want 
$450 shipped. Other diffs seem to run $150-$200 so I played with shipping a 
bit, assuming it weighs around 50# I should be able to ship it UPS for less 
than $100, its not a real big part, just heavy...

Anybody delt with Brass Castle Import Salvage before? I'm thinking I should 
call and see what the breakdown of price is. I *need* this diff but I don't 
need one made out of gold...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] bcs whining some more

2008-11-03 Thread Gary Hurst

my whole point is penn state does not deserve anything, but they will get
it for being undefeated against very soft opposition.

i can only hope for an iowa upset to bury penn state.  otherwise we are in
big trouble.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So, Penn St stays undefeated and no Big 12 or SEC school remains
 undefeated, who gets the shaft?  Penn St deserves it, but either the Big 12
 or SEC will get it

 Luther

 Donald Snook wrote:

 Gary T. wrote: Yep, Texas came out flat in the first half and didn't look
 like they deserved the #1 ranking. Too many back-to-back weeks against top
 10 competition probably took a toll mentally. Now Tech has to face the same
 gauntlet. If they can get by Oklahome and Oklahoma State, they deserve to be
 playing in the big one come January.

 Whoever comes out of the Big 12 South has to get past Missouri in the Big
 12 Championship. Unfortunately, the Big 12 is so loaded with good teams that
 they beat up on each and hurt our chances of playing for the National Title.
 BUT, I agree with you, if there is a Big 12 South team that makes it out
 with only 1 loss and they beat Mizzou in the Big 12 Championship, then they
 deserve to play for the title.  NO other team would have been through such a
 bruising battle by they time they win their conference championship.


 Donald H. Snook


 --
 Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
 '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
 '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
 '82 300CD (183 kmi)
 '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
 '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion



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Those are NOT ladybugs. Those are Asian Beetles. Ladybugs are
orange, don't bite, and don't stink. Asian beetles are more yellow,
stink, and bite. They are especially a problem with wine
grapes. They also eat holes in apples and other fruit.

Asian beetles were introduced by our gummit to attempt to control
aphids in soybeans. As usual, the gummit only succeeded in costing
us more and gumming up the works.

http://en.thinkexist.com/quotation/if-you-re-not-a-liberal-at-twenty-you-have-no/347162.htmlIf
you're not a liberal at twenty you have no heart, if you're not a
conservative at forty you have no brain. Attributed to Sir Winston Churchill

At 07:52 PM 11/1/2008, you wrote:
Once a year, about this time of year, I get an infestation of lady
bugs. One day, crawling along the ceiling of my house, will be
hundreds of them. They just appear all the sudden, then a day or 2
later, you dont see them again. I have no idea where they are
coming from, never seen anything like it. The first time it
happened, there was probably thousands it seemed like. Not as many
now but its still something. AS far as I know they dont harm
anything. Its just wierd. Thoughts?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Loren Faeth
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Re: [MBZ] W124 vibration question

2008-11-03 Thread Luther


QUOTES page please! :)

Luther

Wonko the Sane wrote:

snip

The more I drive this car, the more I have flashbacks to flying the T-34. A
turbo-prop (or a jet, for that matter) has a certain lag between power
control input and response. With the 240D, you lift your foot and slow down.
With the 300E, you lift your foot and the car says, Yea, I will slow down
when I get around to it.
  



--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine The Accordion


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Re: [MBZ] Interesting engine

2008-11-03 Thread Loren Faeth

If you want to see hundreds of them in operation, along with hundreds 
of antique tractors, and dozens of steam traction engines (probably 
around 100) , Steam locomotives and electric trolleys in operation go 
to Midwest Old Threshers Reunion.  http://www.oldthreshers.com/


At 04:46 PM 11/1/2008, you wrote:
There was a harvest festival today in the hood, and there was this 
really old gasoline engine set up driving a stone mill to grind corn 
for grits and meal.  It was a single cylinder horizontal shaft, with 
what looked like an open oil bath or water bath on top (it was 
steaming), some kind of reservoir maybe, and a link running from the 
output shaft (which was driving a wheel about 3ft diameter), every 
rev it would pop-pop-pop (sometimes just pop-pop) when that link 
opened a valve.
Sounded like an old John Deere, it was painted green.  I had the 
pups and they definitely did not want to get close to it, so I could 
not check out the name that was cast into it.  I guess it was a 4 
stroke as it had 2 exposed valves on top of the cyl head.  It was 
pretty cool though.  Definitely not OSHA approved though, stuff 
spinning and popping, no muffler!


I bought some grits from the mill, looking forward to a tasty 
meal!  I bought some fried peanuts too (you eat the whole thing! -- 
good roughage I guess).


--R

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

2008-11-03 Thread brian . toscano

Where are located?  I will be in NJ this week for work.

Regards,
Brian Toscano
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 08:00:08 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

So car-part.com found me a diff for my 190D 2.2l 5spd in New Jersey. They want 
$450 shipped. Other diffs seem to run $150-$200 so I played with shipping a 
bit, assuming it weighs around 50# I should be able to ship it UPS for less 
than $100, its not a real big part, just heavy...

Anybody delt with Brass Castle Import Salvage before? I'm thinking I should 
call and see what the breakdown of price is. I *need* this diff but I don't 
need one made out of gold...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] OT - way of topic, concrete restoration

Do you want to patch the concrete or just slow the process? If the latter, one 
would think there is a spray on
sealant that would reduce the water penetration that is likely causing the 
damage.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 4:23 PM
To: Mercedes list
Subject: [MBZ] OT - way of topic, concrete restoration


I have a 85 year old concrete stile on the edge of the
yard. The fence it went over is long gone, but I find the
relic pleasant. However, in the last few year, Nature has been
rough on it. The lots-of-rock-with-a-bit-of-cement main
structure is crumbling causing the top 3/4 inch (20 mm) of
finish-concrete to break off.

Since this list has an expert in _every_ facet of life...

Any advice on how to save the antique concrete without making
it look like it's brand new?

--  Philip, trying to lead the list astray

_


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Re: [MBZ] bcs whining some more

2008-11-03 Thread Gary Thompson

Sorry, Donald. While I might be surprised, I just don't see Mizzou
winning the Big 12 Championship game, no matter who is there from the
South...

I do agree, though, that the winner of the Big 12 would stack up with
anybody in the country this year.


Gary Thompson


On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 9:39 AM, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Whoever comes out of the Big 12 South has to get past Missouri in the Big 12 
 Championship. Unfortunately, the Big 12 is so loaded with good teams that 
 they beat up on each and hurt our chances of playing for the National Title. 
 BUT, I agree with you, if there is a Big 12 South team that makes it out with 
 only 1 loss and they beat Mizzou in the Big 12 Championship, then they 
 deserve to play for the title.  NO other team would have been through such a 
 bruising battle by they time they win their conference championship.

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[MBZ] 115 300D won't start

I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there wouldn't 
mind, I would like to be reminded of
the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it is not cold 
out. The orange light came on as
normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never started. It 
blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one questionable glow plug 
for a while and have now perhaps
lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch notwithstanding 
that I tried a number of times and
ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just leave it 
alone. I put the charger on the
battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have had a glow 
plug or two bad because it has not
been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough and blow 
smoke until it evened out. I know that
I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have put about 9K 
miles on it. Don't know when it
might have had that done last before I got it.

I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or more back 
and have never installed. I suppose
I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing good ones for 
spares.

Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the process for 
checking to see which might be bad?

Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past Halloween in 
previous years as my insurance
normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch to storage 
insurance and leave it in the garage
for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go out of 
town and my elder son did too. He used
my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days. The 
weather is really nice here today so I was
going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the change before 
it goes into storage for the winter
too.

Randy


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[MBZ] Carfax request

2008-11-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain

Can somebody please run this VIN: 3GNGK26J0VG102834

Should be a '97 Suburban 2500.

Thanks!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

North Central MA, right on the NH border.

--- On Mon, 11/3/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, November 3, 2008, 12:03 PM

Where are located?  I will be in NJ this week for work.

Regards,
Brian Toscano
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 08:00:08 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

So car-part.com found me a diff for my 190D 2.2l 5spd in New Jersey. They want
$450 shipped. Other diffs seem to run $150-$200 so I played with shipping a bit,
assuming it weighs around 50# I should be able to ship it UPS for less than
$100, its not a real big part, just heavy...

Anybody delt with Brass Castle Import Salvage before? I'm thinking I should
call and see what the breakdown of price is. I *need* this diff but I don't
need one made out of gold...

-Curt

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[MBZ] OT: Chevy full-size 4WD systems

2008-11-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain

I know a lot of guys on the list have Suburbans, Tahoes, and full-size
Chevy/GMC trucks, so somebody must know the scoop on this.  I'm
looking at mid-to-late-'90s Suburbans and I think I'm seeing at least
three different kinds of 4WD systems, but I'm not sure of the details.
 Most of the '95s and '96s I've seen have the transfer case lever on
the floor labeled 2WD, 4WD LO, and 4WD HI---that makes sense to me.

I know that in 1998 the lever on the floor went away and a full-time
system was offered with a viscous coupling in the middle of the
drivetrain so that you could leave it in 4WD all the time without
ruining the front differential.  At least some of the trucks with this
system (maybe all?) have buttons on the left side of the dash to
actuate it, presumably via solenoids in the driveline somewhere.

But I just looked at a '97 and it has buttons for the 4WD on the right
side of the steering column, kind of hidden behind the shift lever.
What kind of system is this?

Anybody have any opinions to offer on the pros and cons of the various
systems?  I'm used to the simplicity of the manual transfer case on my
Isuzu Trooper, but hate the auto-locking hubs on that truck (I'm going
to replace them with manual Warns at some point). But SWMBO is going
to be driving the Suburban occasionally, and she'd definitely prefer
fully automatic AWD.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

2008-11-03 Thread Wonko the Sane

Easy to install. Take out the old glow plugs and toaster wires, put in the
new plugs, wire them in series, and do NOT hook up the ground strap at the
front side.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:37 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there
 wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of
 the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

 My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it is not
 cold out. The orange light came on as
 normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never started.
 It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
 the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one questionable glow
 plug for a while and have now perhaps
 lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch
 notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
 ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just leave
 it alone. I put the charger on the
 battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have had a
 glow plug or two bad because it has not
 been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough and blow
 smoke until it evened out. I know that
 I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have put
 about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it
 might have had that done last before I got it.

 I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or more
 back and have never installed. I suppose
 I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing good ones
 for spares.

 Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the process
 for checking to see which might be bad?

 Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past Halloween
 in previous years as my insurance
 normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch to
 storage insurance and leave it in the garage
 for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go out of
 town and my elder son did too. He used
 my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days. The
 weather is really nice here today so I was
 going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the change
 before it goes into storage for the winter
 too.

 Randy


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[MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and SWMBO
said she didn't put them away. 

 

And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash

 

Bob R

'77 300D  

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[MBZ] Stealership Excitement

Took the '05 E320 to the stealership to get the B service done. I have
around $400 left on my Loyalty VISA to burn at the joint so that is why the
dealer is doing the service. He said the B service would be $299.  Gave me
a new C300 to drive. Nice.

Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry list
of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
Gotta love those service guys.

 

Bob R

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Chevy full-size 4WD systems

I'm not really familiar with the Chevy's so maybe I should just keep quiet, but 
I am guessing they are similar to
the Fords. My Supercrew has a button set up to switch between 2WD and 4WD high 
and low but is not fulltime. I
cannot run in 4WD on dry pavement. The button just operates an electrical setup 
that does the shifting in lieu of a
manual lever like on the older ones.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:48 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Chevy full-size 4WD systems


I know a lot of guys on the list have Suburbans, Tahoes, and full-size
Chevy/GMC trucks, so somebody must know the scoop on this.  I'm
looking at mid-to-late-'90s Suburbans and I think I'm seeing at least
three different kinds of 4WD systems, but I'm not sure of the details.
 Most of the '95s and '96s I've seen have the transfer case lever on
the floor labeled 2WD, 4WD LO, and 4WD HI---that makes sense to me.

I know that in 1998 the lever on the floor went away and a full-time
system was offered with a viscous coupling in the middle of the
drivetrain so that you could leave it in 4WD all the time without
ruining the front differential.  At least some of the trucks with this
system (maybe all?) have buttons on the left side of the dash to
actuate it, presumably via solenoids in the driveline somewhere.

But I just looked at a '97 and it has buttons for the 4WD on the right
side of the steering column, kind of hidden behind the shift lever.
What kind of system is this?

Anybody have any opinions to offer on the pros and cons of the various
systems?  I'm used to the simplicity of the manual transfer case on my
Isuzu Trooper, but hate the auto-locking hubs on that truck (I'm going
to replace them with manual Warns at some point). But SWMBO is going
to be driving the Suburban occasionally, and she'd definitely prefer
fully automatic AWD.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

OK, but please clarify. Is there a ground strap there now? And if so, why 
wouldn't I reconnect it? 

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

Easy to install. Take out the old glow plugs and toaster wires, put in the
new plugs, wire them in series, and do NOT hook up the ground strap at the
front side.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:37 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there
 wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of
 the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

 My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it is not
 cold out. The orange light came on as
 normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never started.
 It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
 the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one questionable glow
 plug for a while and have now perhaps
 lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch
 notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
 ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just leave
 it alone. I put the charger on the
 battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have had a
 glow plug or two bad because it has not
 been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough and blow
 smoke until it evened out. I know that
 I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have put
 about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it
 might have had that done last before I got it.

 I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or more
 back and have never installed. I suppose
 I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing good ones
 for spares.

 Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the process
 for checking to see which might be bad?

 Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past Halloween
 in previous years as my insurance
 normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch to
 storage insurance and leave it in the garage
 for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go out of
 town and my elder son did too. He used
 my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days. The
 weather is really nice here today so I was
 going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the change
 before it goes into storage for the winter
 too.

 Randy

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Interesting engine

2008-11-03 Thread Mitch Haley


Peter Frederick wrote:
We call them hit and miss engines, because the governor usually holds 
the exhaust valve open on the intake stroke to prevent it from 
generating an un-needed power stroke. 


So no pumping losses or intake vacuum?
But inefficient anyway?


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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

Actually, if it's the 12V pencil type replacements for the older loop style,
the correct procedure is to wire them in parallel. The ground is not hooked
back up because each one provides its own ground.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

OK, but please clarify. Is there a ground strap there now? And if so, why
wouldn't I reconnect it? 

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start


Easy to install. Take out the old glow plugs and toaster wires, put in the
new plugs, wire them in series, and do NOT hook up the ground strap at the
front side.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:37 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there
 wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of
 the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

 My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it is not
 cold out. The orange light came on as
 normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never
started.
 It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
 the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one questionable glow
 plug for a while and have now perhaps
 lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch
 notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
 ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just leave
 it alone. I put the charger on the
 battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have had a
 glow plug or two bad because it has not
 been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough and
blow
 smoke until it evened out. I know that
 I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have put
 about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it
 might have had that done last before I got it.

 I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or more
 back and have never installed. I suppose
 I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing good
ones
 for spares.

 Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the
process
 for checking to see which might be bad?

 Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past
Halloween
 in previous years as my insurance
 normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch to
 storage insurance and leave it in the garage
 for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go out
of
 town and my elder son did too. He used
 my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days. The
 weather is really nice here today so I was
 going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the change
 before it goes into storage for the winter
 too.

 Randy


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008
7:46 AM
 

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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008
7:46 AM
 


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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

-Rolf

Robert Rentfro wrote:
 Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
 plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and SWMBO
 said she didn't put them away. 

  

 And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash

  

 Bob R

 '77 300D  

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Re: [MBZ] Interesting engine

Actually, I re-read my own email  need to correct myself. The ones I've
seen disable the intake valve on the 'miss' strokes.

But even then, there are little pumping losses. The piston will pull a
vacuum on the intakes stroke  the same vacuum will help pull the piston
back in during the compression stroke.

The real inefficiency comes from the primitive carburetor.
 
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Interesting engine

Peter Frederick wrote:
 We call them hit and miss engines, because the governor usually holds 
 the exhaust valve open on the intake stroke to prevent it from 
 generating an un-needed power stroke. 

So no pumping losses or intake vacuum?
But inefficient anyway?


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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
dash.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

-Rolf

Robert Rentfro wrote:
 Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
 plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and SWMBO
 said she didn't put them away. 

  

 And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash

  

 Bob R

 '77 300D  

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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

You've got new replace whats there glowplugs or new better type replaces the 
old type?
In either case I'm a big fan of replacing the glowplugs. Wait, let me rephrase, 
I'm a fan of having new glowplugs, I'm not a fan of the job itself although its 
not really that hard. Easier on your car than mine I suspect.

Marshall would say test the glowplugs but its been my experience that on my 2 
cars ('83 240D and '85 190D) that once they get a little wonky they need 
replacing and I feel like I'd rather be in there just once in awhile rather 
than chasing each plug as it dies.

That said in your case I'd adjust the valves FIRST. Who knows how many miles 
are on them. IIRC with the old type plugs if you lose one you've lost them all. 
Thus if the light is coming on your plugs are working at least a bit...

My 240D in its hayday (around 2004) would start down to about 32F without any 
glowplugs at all (drove it for a couple days like that waiting for parts from 
Rusty once) but it did have to crank hard to get there... It might even do that 
now if I put the charger on the battery first. Since it doesn't get driven the 
battery isn't tip top...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 12:37:40 -0600
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=iso-8859-1

I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there wouldn't 
mind, I would like to be reminded of
the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it is not cold 
out. The orange light came on as
normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never started. It 
blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one questionable glow plug 
for a while and have now perhaps
lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch notwithstanding 
that I tried a number of times and
ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just leave it 
alone. I put the charger on the
battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have had a glow 
plug or two bad because it has not
been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough and blow 
smoke until it evened out. I know that
I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have put about 9K 
miles on it. Don't know when it
might have had that done last before I got it.

I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or more back 
and have never installed. I suppose
I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing good ones for 
spares.

Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the process for 
checking to see which might be bad?

Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past Halloween in 
previous years as my insurance
normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch to storage 
insurance and leave it in the garage
for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go out of 
town and my elder son did too. He used
my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days. The 
weather is really nice here today so I was
going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the change before 
it goes into storage for the winter
too.

Randy




  
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Re: [MBZ] OT - way of topic, concrete restoration

2008-11-03 Thread Fmiser

It seems than at Mon, 3 Nov 2008 12:20:51 -0600, R wrote:

 Do you want to patch the concrete or just slow the process? If
 the latter, one would think there is a spray on sealant that
 would reduce the water penetration that is likely causing the
 damage.
 
 Randy

If I could go back 6 years and slow the damage, it might work.
But right now it is it pretty rough shape. The north face of the
top step is so loose that a liquid surface sealant won't work.

So I'm expecting I'll need to repair it...

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

2008-11-03 Thread Loren Faeth

have someone hold out the glow switch.  with a volt meter check for 
voltage on each busbar.  when you get to the one that has no voltage, 
moving forward, then the plug behind that is the bad one.


If you replace loop type with loop type, then everything, including 
the ground goes back as before.  If you replace series, loop type 
with pencil type, then you do not use the insulators or busbars, or 
the ground.  for the pencil type, you need to make up new 10 ga wires 
with terminals for the GPs.  It is difficult to locate 10 ga 
connectors with small terminal holes, but they are available.  Pencil 
type are wired in parallel, with 12v at the terminal of each plug.




At 12:37 PM 11/3/2008, you wrote:
I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there 
wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of

the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it 
is not cold out. The orange light came on as
normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never 
started. It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one 
questionable glow plug for a while and have now perhaps
lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch 
notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just 
leave it alone. I put the charger on the
battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have 
had a glow plug or two bad because it has not
been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough 
and blow smoke until it evened out. I know that
I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have 
put about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it

might have had that done last before I got it.

I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or 
more back and have never installed. I suppose
I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing 
good ones for spares.


Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the 
process for checking to see which might be bad?


Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past 
Halloween in previous years as my insurance
normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch 
to storage insurance and leave it in the garage
for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go 
out of town and my elder son did too. He used
my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days. 
The weather is really nice here today so I was
going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the 
change before it goes into storage for the winter

too.

Randy


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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

2008-11-03 Thread Wonko the Sane

'77 240D has the glow plug fuse on the firewall. Wouldn't a 300D have it in
the same location? There is a square cover over it. Follow the wire from the
rear glow plug and it will go to the fuse.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:27 PM, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
 dash.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Rolf
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


 Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

 -Rolf

 Robert Rentfro wrote:
  Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
  plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and
 SWMBO
  said she didn't put them away.
 
 
 
  And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash
 
 
 
  Bob R
 
  '77 300D
 
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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread John Freer

Why wouldn't your warranty kick in for some of that bill?

John

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 10:05 AM, Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Took the '05 E320 to the stealership to get the B service done. I have
 around $400 left on my Loyalty VISA to burn at the joint so that is why the
 dealer is doing the service. He said the B service would be $299.  Gave me
 a new C300 to drive. Nice.

 Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
 could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry list
 of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
 Gotta love those service guys.



 Bob R

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Re: [MBZ] Interesting engine

2008-11-03 Thread pop3.atlantic.net

I tried to get one of those engines running for a high school friends father 
during WW-2 in a small SE Indiana town.  Instead of a spark plug system, it 
had mechanical strikers in the top of the cylinder that made contact and 
ignited the gas vapour.  (Later models had spark plugs.)
The electrical source for the strikers was missing, so I tried all sorts of 
other electric sources but could never get the engine to fire.
The later spark plug models, such as the engine that ran a sorghum cane 
grinder at another high school friends farm, started easily.
During the 1930s the Belknap Hardware Co. (Louisville) catalog had many 
pages of those type engines; some quite large.

Gerry


We call them hit and miss engines, because the governor usually
holds the exhaust valve open on the intake stroke to prevent it from
generating an un-needed power stroke.  At no load with the governor
set low, it may only fire every four or five power strokes unless set
VERY rich to make them fire all the time (no power).

Cooling was often an open head filled with water -- they boil merrily
under load.

Designed to run around 500 rpm or so (as is obvious by the flywheel
-- any faster and it would fly apart!) and used to drive stationary
equipment -- sawmills, threshing machines, overhead live shafts that
operate other equipment, and so forth.

Usually have 4:1 compression ratios and use vast quantities of fuel
in operation, even with the very long stroke.  Hand started by
bouncing off the compression stroke backwards through a compression
stroke.

The Hercules brand was made here in Evansville -- I think you could
see the remains of the sign on the roof of the old factory until a
few years ago.

Peter

On Nov 3, 2008, at 8:31 AM, Loren Faeth wrote:


If you want to see hundreds of them in operation, along with
hundreds of antique tractors, and dozens of steam traction engines
(probably around 100) , Steam locomotives and electric trolleys in
operation go to Midwest Old Threshers Reunion.  http://
www.oldthreshers.com/

At 04:46 PM 11/1/2008, you wrote:

There was a harvest festival today in the hood, and there was this
really old gasoline engine set up driving a stone mill to grind
corn for grits and meal.  It was a single cylinder horizontal
shaft, with what looked like an open oil bath or water bath on top
(it was steaming), some kind of reservoir maybe, and a link
running from the output shaft (which was driving a wheel about 3ft
diameter), every rev it would pop-pop-pop (sometimes just pop-pop)
when that link opened a valve.
Sounded like an old John Deere, it was painted green.  I had the
pups and they definitely did not want to get close to it, so I
could not check out the name that was cast into it.  I guess it
was a 4 stroke as it had 2 exposed valves on top of the cyl head.
It was pretty cool though.  Definitely not OSHA approved though,
stuff spinning and popping, no muffler!

I bought some grits from the mill, looking forward to a tasty
meal!  I bought some fried peanuts too (you eat the whole thing!
-- good roughage I guess).

--R

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Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

The fuse is on the firewall but the relay (controller) is under the dash.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

'77 240D has the glow plug fuse on the firewall. Wouldn't a 300D have it in
the same location? There is a square cover over it. Follow the wire from the
rear glow plug and it will go to the fuse.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:27 PM, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
 dash.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Rolf
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


 Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

 -Rolf

 Robert Rentfro wrote:
  Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
  plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and
 SWMBO
  said she didn't put them away.
 
 
 
  And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash
 
 
 
  Bob R
 
  '77 300D
 
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
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 7:46 AM


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 Checked by AVG.
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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread John Robbins


Robert Rentfro wrote:

Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry list
of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
Gotta love those service guys.


Woah!  What all did he say needed to be done?

John


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[MBZ] OT: Carvin PA loudspeakers?

Anyone know anything about Carvin loudspeakers?  Think $400 is
reasonable for a pair of (used) 3-way/400W/15-inch ??

Allan
--
1983 300D


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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

I've NEVER had ANY car at ANY dealer for service where they JUST did
what I asked them to do without a phone call and a lot of FUD about ten
other things that needed to be done.

This is because a) the service writer gets paid on commission and b) I
suspect that service is really the money-maker for dealers, I bet their
margin on a new car is pretty slim once you pay the sales staff and
inventory carrying costs.

Allan



John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 Robert Rentfro wrote:
  Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
  could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry list
  of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
  Gotta love those service guys.
 
 Woah!  What all did he say needed to be done?
 
 John
 
 
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[MBZ] WARNING(virus check bypassed): Re: Glow Plug Drama

2008-11-03 Thread Rich Thomas



My 79 has it on the firewall just aft of the head to the drivers side a 
bit, you can see the wire leading from the GP to the little plastic 
holder (which is likely melted?).  The fuse itself is about 1.5 long x 
1/4 wide with 2 ears that bolt the wires to it.


--R

Wonko the Sane wrote:

'77 240D has the glow plug fuse on the firewall. Wouldn't a 300D have it in
the same location? There is a square cover over it. Follow the wire from the
rear glow plug and it will go to the fuse.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:27 PM, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  

Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
dash.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

-Rolf

Robert Rentfro wrote:


Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and
  

SWMBO


said she didn't put them away.



And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash



Bob R

'77 300D

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7:46 AM



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Re: [MBZ] Indy in Columbus OH

2008-11-03 Thread ned kleinhenz

Thanks Rusty.
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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

Just replacing what is there with new original style. I know there are folks 
who believe the new style is better
but I also read that there is nothing really wrong with the original equipment 
type so I just got a new set of
those.

300D does not have the pull out glow switch. It is in the ignition lock so I 
can just turn it on and check with the
voltmeter.

What was the story with ohms? My recollection is that one can test them for 
resistance to see if they have gone
bad. I am assuming that an open circuit is dead and my recollection is that a 
usable one should have a minimal
resistance of something less than one ohm. I also assume one must disconnect 
and test each separately.


Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start


have someone hold out the glow switch.  with a volt meter check for
voltage on each busbar.  when you get to the one that has no voltage,
moving forward, then the plug behind that is the bad one.

If you replace loop type with loop type, then everything, including
the ground goes back as before.  If you replace series, loop type
with pencil type, then you do not use the insulators or busbars, or
the ground.  for the pencil type, you need to make up new 10 ga wires
with terminals for the GPs.  It is difficult to locate 10 ga
connectors with small terminal holes, but they are available.  Pencil
type are wired in parallel, with 12v at the terminal of each plug.



At 12:37 PM 11/3/2008, you wrote:
I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there
wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of
the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it
is not cold out. The orange light came on as
normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never
started. It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one
questionable glow plug for a while and have now perhaps
lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch
notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just
leave it alone. I put the charger on the
battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have
had a glow plug or two bad because it has not
been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough
and blow smoke until it evened out. I know that
I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have
put about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it
might have had that done last before I got it.

I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or
more back and have never installed. I suppose
I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing
good ones for spares.

Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the
process for checking to see which might be bad?

Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past
Halloween in previous years as my insurance
normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch
to storage insurance and leave it in the garage
for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go
out of town and my elder son did too. He used
my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days.
The weather is really nice here today so I was
going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the
change before it goes into storage for the winter
too.

Randy


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Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] OT - way of topic, concrete restoration

I am assuming, after seeing the photos, that your intention is to retain it as 
an ornamental element in your
garden. If that is true, then I think I would use a bit of morter to restick 
anything that might fall off and just
let it be. It is sort of a ruin and total patching would not improve it's 
looks much. It probably looks better as
it is. On the other hand, if you plan to build a deck or builing behind it and 
use it to access the deck, building
etc, then you had probably best replace the whole thing before someone gets 
hurt.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:36 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - way of topic, concrete restoration


It seems than at Mon, 3 Nov 2008 12:20:51 -0600, R wrote:

 Do you want to patch the concrete or just slow the process? If
 the latter, one would think there is a spray on sealant that
 would reduce the water penetration that is likely causing the
 damage.

 Randy

If I could go back 6 years and slow the damage, it might work.
But right now it is it pretty rough shape. The north face of the
top step is so loose that a liquid surface sealant won't work.

So I'm expecting I'll need to repair it...

--Philip



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Re: [MBZ] WARNING(virus check bypassed): Re: Glow Plug Drama

2008-11-03 Thread andrew strasfogel

The glow plug fuse on my 83 300TD wagon costs 85 cents.  I  wish they would
blow more often.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 2:43 PM, Rich Thomas 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 My 79 has it on the firewall just aft of the head to the drivers side a
 bit, you can see the wire leading from the GP to the little plastic holder
 (which is likely melted?).  The fuse itself is about 1.5 long x 1/4 wide
 with 2 ears that bolt the wires to it.

 --R

 Wonko the Sane wrote:

 '77 240D has the glow plug fuse on the firewall. Wouldn't a 300D have it
 in
 the same location? There is a square cover over it. Follow the wire from
 the
 rear glow plug and it will go to the fuse.

 On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:27 PM, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:



 Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
 dash.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Rolf
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


 Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

 -Rolf

 Robert Rentfro wrote:


 Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
 plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and


 SWMBO


 said she didn't put them away.



 And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash



 Bob R

 '77 300D

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG.
 Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008
 7:46 AM


 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG.
 Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008
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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

2008-11-03 Thread andrew strasfogel

Hard starting usually means the need for a valve adjustement, according to
my indy tech who is an MB diesel expert.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 4:00 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Just replacing what is there with new original style. I know there are
 folks who believe the new style is better
 but I also read that there is nothing really wrong with the original
 equipment type so I just got a new set of
 those.

 300D does not have the pull out glow switch. It is in the ignition lock so
 I can just turn it on and check with the
 voltmeter.

 What was the story with ohms? My recollection is that one can test them for
 resistance to see if they have gone
 bad. I am assuming that an open circuit is dead and my recollection is that
 a usable one should have a minimal
 resistance of something less than one ohm. I also assume one must
 disconnect and test each separately.


 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:50 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start


 have someone hold out the glow switch.  with a volt meter check for
 voltage on each busbar.  when you get to the one that has no voltage,
 moving forward, then the plug behind that is the bad one.

 If you replace loop type with loop type, then everything, including
 the ground goes back as before.  If you replace series, loop type
 with pencil type, then you do not use the insulators or busbars, or
 the ground.  for the pencil type, you need to make up new 10 ga wires
 with terminals for the GPs.  It is difficult to locate 10 ga
 connectors with small terminal holes, but they are available.  Pencil
 type are wired in parallel, with 12v at the terminal of each plug.



 At 12:37 PM 11/3/2008, you wrote:
 I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there
 wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of
 the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.
 
 My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it
 is not cold out. The orange light came on as
 normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never
 started. It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
 the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one
 questionable glow plug for a while and have now perhaps
 lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch
 notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
 ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just
 leave it alone. I put the charger on the
 battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have
 had a glow plug or two bad because it has not
 been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough
 and blow smoke until it evened out. I know that
 I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have
 put about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it
 might have had that done last before I got it.
 
 I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year or
 more back and have never installed. I suppose
 I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing
 good ones for spares.
 
 Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the
 process for checking to see which might be bad?
 
 Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past
 Halloween in previous years as my insurance
 normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch
 to storage insurance and leave it in the garage
 for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to go
 out of town and my elder son did too. He used
 my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more days.
 The weather is really nice here today so I was
 going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the
 change before it goes into storage for the winter
 too.
 
 Randy
 
 
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 Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] flex disks

2008-11-03 Thread RELNGSON

 ...Don, the good news is that flex disk replacements aren't terribly 
 expensive...
 
The cost of flex disks is totally irrelevant because a broken front one can 
total the car when the driveshaft starts flailing around. There are some 
pictures someplace of the trans area in a car where the driveshaft got away and 
it 
looked like a bomb went off. Broke the trans and tore holes in the floor.

At the very least, you will be stranded someplace.

RLE
 
 




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Re: [MBZ] flex disks

Mine let fly during rush hour traffic in the middle of 10 lanes. Swapped
it out on the side of the road. Not the best start I've had on a camping
trip.

On a side note, I kept wondering what people were yelling at me as they
drove by. Eventually I made it out, CRACK. Apparently I spent a few
hours mooning the NE population of Atlanta.

-Rolf

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...Don, the good news is that flex disk replacements aren't terribly
expensive...

The cost of flex disks is totally irrelevant because a broken front one can
total the car when the driveshaft starts flailing around. There are some
pictures someplace of the trans area in a car where the driveshaft got away
and it
looked like a bomb went off. Broke the trans and tore holes in the floor.

At the very least, you will be stranded someplace.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] flex disks

I assume this all applies to W123 cars as well?  I do have a pretty
distinctive klunk especially on the 3/4 shift if I'm not really under
power when that happens  Downshifts as well.

Allan
--
1983 300D



On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:22:52 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
  ...Don, the good news is that flex disk replacements aren't terribly 
  expensive...
  
 The cost of flex disks is totally irrelevant because a broken front one
 can 
 total the car when the driveshaft starts flailing around. There are some 
 pictures someplace of the trans area in a car where the driveshaft got
 away and it 
 looked like a bomb went off. Broke the trans and tore holes in the floor.
 
 At the very least, you will be stranded someplace.
 
 RLE
  
  
 
 
 
 
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[MBZ] Axle grease

You might remember last week when I said Tom said Bimby couldn't ship axle 
grease and then Rusty said they could.

Today I called and Tom had to check with Rusty but yeah they can get it. It 
goes from MB to Bimby but saves me a drive to my local dealer which is an 
hour each way. $6.50 a tube which is cheap in my mind.
I was going to use Mobil 1 grease until Fred mentioned he did that and just 
used about the same amount as came in the tube. Unfortunately I've never laid 
eyes on the tube so its hard for me to match up amounts...

Considering the price I bought 2 tubes since the shipping for one would be 
about the same as the grease itself...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] flex disks

Carrier bearing bushing OR rear diff mount?

-Rolf

Allan Streib wrote:
I assume this all applies to W123 cars as well? I do have a pretty
distinctive klunk especially on the 3/4 shift if I'm not really under
power when that happens Downshifts as well.

Allan
--
1983 300D

On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:22:52 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

...Don, the good news is that flex disk replacements aren't terribly
expensive...

The cost of flex disks is totally irrelevant because a broken front one
can
total the car when the driveshaft starts flailing around. There are some
pictures someplace of the trans area in a car where the driveshaft got
away and it
looked like a bomb went off. Broke the trans and tore holes in the floor.

At the very least, you will be stranded someplace.

RLE

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[MBZ] American Diesel

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/904173574.html

I'm almost considering this one... Must be okay its got a brand new inspection 
sticker, MA is fairly picky.
Drive it for awhile and transplant the motor into an Struck Wish I had 
project space. Of course if I did I'd buy the 190D 2.5l Turbo Fred and I looked 
at on Saturday...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] American Diesel


 Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/904173574.html
 
 I'm almost considering this one... Must be okay its got a brand new
 inspection sticker, MA is fairly picky.

I don't think the motors in those GM passenger diesels were ever held up
as a model of good engineering.  Regardless of whether it passed a
safety inspection, those engines are a big part of why the American
car-buying public got turned off on the idea of a diesel car.

Allan
--
1983 300D



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Carvin PA loudspeakers?

2008-11-03 Thread Fmiser

 Allan wrote:

 Anyone know anything about Carvin loudspeakers?  Think $400 is
 reasonable for a pair of (used) 3-way/400W/15-inch ??

Does it look like this?
https://www.carvinguitars.com/products/single.php?product=LSX1503

Depends upon what you want them to do. *smile* Carvin are
mass-market, music-store, impress-them-with-the-spec-sheet type
speakers. Take all the specifications with a grain (or two) of
salt.

I'm only aware of them making PA type speakers, but maybe the
also make home stereo.

If you want an inexpensive, box-on-a-speaker-stand for DJ like
uses, they should work. 

The ones I'm aware of do not have good pattern control
and the style of HF horn will mean the frequency response will
vary a lot with listener position. So if you expect them to
sound good, you will likely be disappointed.

-- Philip

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[MBZ] Anybody want a 190D 2.5l Turbo?

Saturday I met up with Fred and hit a junkyard where I got some cosmetic bits 
for my 240D.
After that we checked out a Craigslist 190D 2.5l Turbo. The guy has that and a 
'90something 190E parts car together for $1500 (Paying attention Kaleb?).
The parts car really is, they've pulled the front and rear glass for the diesel 
plus a couple other things. They said the engine made a noise. From what the 
guy said I agree with Fred that the noise is probably a dead lifter. The body 
on that car looked good and it had proper 190 wheels.

The diesel had some stupid kiddie aftermarket wheels with rubber I was nervous 
to drive on. This is the son's car he's been delivering papers with... It's 
been painted twice, ostensibly by a previous owner, once to green then black. 
When he did the black he barely masked so theres lots of places you can see 
green. He did use A LOT of paint though, huge runs...
The turbo does NOTHING the car pulls like a 240D auto... The guy said it used 
to have more power, I bet delivering papers hasn't done it any favors. The jack 
points are rusted out and tin of some sort has been pop riveted over it. The 
rubber shock tower bushing (the thing that holds the top of the shock) is dead 
on the passenger side and knocks something awful. They did the driver's side 
with one from the parts car. Fred and I couldn't believe somebody would bother 
when new ones aren't real expensive... The cruise actuator is missing and the 
engine is gross oily and starts hard like the glow plugs aren't working though 
the light comes on and the engine was warm. The glass from the instruments was 
missing as is the trim around the rear window where they did a crappy install 
job. The kid has hacked in an aftermarket horn with cow and dog sounds...

On the plus side the transmission shifted fine and the steering was reasonably 
tight and responsive. The brakes worked and didn't make any scary noises.

The father sounded like he was motivated to get the cars GONE. He has a 3 car 
garage with no cars in it and a bunch outside... At a guess I'd say they're 
housepoor, the place is in a development and has not been maintained at all.
If I had an open bay I'd go back and offer $600 for the diesel and tell the guy 
I'd take $100 to haul the 190E away. He definately doesn't realize its more 
liablity than selling point...

Thanks to Fred for driving on Saturday!

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

On my '77 it is under the dash. On my '81 300D it was in the engine
compartment on the fender.

Dealer wants $251.86 for it, but they actually have it. Crazy.

Bob R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:25 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

-Rolf

Robert Rentfro wrote:
 Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
 plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and SWMBO
 said she didn't put them away. 

  

 And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash

  

 Bob R

 '77 300D  

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

Under the dash is correct.

Bob R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:27 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
dash.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama


Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

-Rolf

Robert Rentfro wrote:
 Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
 plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and SWMBO
 said she didn't put them away. 

  

 And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash

  

 Bob R

 '77 300D  

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

Are those the ice cube looking things in the black box on the fender?

Bob R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

'77 240D has the glow plug fuse on the firewall. Wouldn't a 300D have it in
the same location? There is a square cover over it. Follow the wire from the
rear glow plug and it will go to the fuse.

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 12:27 PM, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Was the 77 on the fender or under the dash? From memory, it is under the
 dash.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Rolf
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:25 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Drama

 Glowplug relay, mounted on the fender.

 -Rolf

 Robert Rentfro wrote:
  Someone remind me where the fuse (strip) is I need to check for the glow
  plugs? I haven't been able to locate my manuals/CDs since I move and
 SWMBO
  said she didn't put them away.

  And, btw Rusty, glow plug relay is under the dash

  Bob R

  '77 300D

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
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 7:46 AM

 No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

It was stuff like rear brakes, cabin filter set, and a new driver's sun
visor since the one in it is almost impossible to put down anymore. Nothing
covered by warranty.

Bob R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Freer
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

Why wouldn't your warranty kick in for some of that bill?

John

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 10:05 AM, Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Took the '05 E320 to the stealership to get the B service done. I have
 around $400 left on my Loyalty VISA to burn at the joint so that is why
the
 dealer is doing the service. He said the B service would be $299.  Gave
me
 a new C300 to drive. Nice.

 Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
 could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry
list
 of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
 Gotta love those service guys.



 Bob R

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Carvin PA loudspeakers?

Yeah that's pretty much it. Cosmetically a bit different but I'd bet
it's the same box and internals.  Just wondering if anyone knew how well
this kind of stuff tends to hold its value.  I'm looking at this as a
possible opportunity do do a quick eBay flip if I can get a decent price
on these.

Allan


On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:56:01 -0600, Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
  Allan wrote:
 
  Anyone know anything about Carvin loudspeakers?  Think $400 is
  reasonable for a pair of (used) 3-way/400W/15-inch ??
 
 Does it look like this?
 https://www.carvinguitars.com/products/single.php?product=LSX1503
 
 Depends upon what you want them to do. *smile* Carvin are
 mass-market, music-store, impress-them-with-the-spec-sheet type
 speakers. Take all the specifications with a grain (or two) of
 salt.
 
 I'm only aware of them making PA type speakers, but maybe the
 also make home stereo.
 
 If you want an inexpensive, box-on-a-speaker-stand for DJ like
 uses, they should work. 
 
 The ones I'm aware of do not have good pattern control
 and the style of HF horn will mean the frequency response will
 vary a lot with listener position. So if you expect them to
 sound good, you will likely be disappointed.
 
 -- Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread John Robbins


Robert Rentfro wrote:

Here is what my invoice says:

MBZ Flex Service B$212.97
Windshield Washer Solvent   $7.04
Oil Filter  $23.00
Seal$1.90
5W-40 Oil   $48.00  
Enviro. Waste Charge$6.00   
Labor   $218.97

Flex service B changed engine oil and filter. Checked fluid levels. Added
solvent to washer system. Inspected tires and rotated tires. Set tire
pressures. Inspected brakes. Recommended rear brake pads, customer declined.
Inspected suspension and underbody. Function checked lights, horn and wiper
system. Recommended wiper blades, customer declined. Tested both batteries
Reset service counter. Recommended engine air filter, A/C dust filter, cabin
filter and brake flush. Customer declined.


From reading maintenance in the 'Owners Online' it sounds like the 
engine air filter, a/c dust filter, and cabin flush are all part of the 
B service.  Never had that done at the dealer though.  Doesn't look like 
I'm going to either!!


John


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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread John Freer

Bob,
Just had my 05 CDI with 46K miles in the dealer for an oil change.
Service writer noticed a small hairline crack in the wood surround by
the gearshift and the rear door sill plate was slightly bent. All was
replaced at no charge. Certainly think your malfunctioning sun visor
would be covered.

John

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 1:01 PM, Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 It was stuff like rear brakes, cabin filter set, and a new driver's sun
 visor since the one in it is almost impossible to put down anymore. Nothing
 covered by warranty.

 Bob R

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of John Freer
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:21 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

 Why wouldn't your warranty kick in for some of that bill?

 John

 On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 10:05 AM, Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Took the '05 E320 to the stealership to get the B service done. I have
 around $400 left on my Loyalty VISA to burn at the joint so that is why
 the
 dealer is doing the service. He said the B service would be $299.  Gave
 me
 a new C300 to drive. Nice.

 Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
 could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry
 list
 of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
 Gotta love those service guys.



 Bob R

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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread Mitch Haley



My first thought was he could have topped up his washer fluid before he went 
there and saved $6.
My second thought was he paid $300 for an oil change, some windshield wash, and 
an attempt to sell other services.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

All I can say is Atlanta Classic Cars has always changed a fair price,
done the work specified, and mentioned any other problems they found
along the way. My wife says they are by far the best mechanic
experience she has ever had. Everyone treated her with respect and not
like she was some dumb bimbo (despite what I might think :D ).

Our first wagon had been serviced by them for the entirety of its life
which is why we wen't there. Dealership only does alignments for me but
they do it right and with style (for $20 LESS than NTB *grumble grumble*).

-Rolf

Mitch Haley wrote:

 My first thought was he could have topped up his washer fluid before
 he went there and saved $6.
 My second thought was he paid $300 for an oil change, some windshield
 wash, and an attempt to sell other services.

 Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] flex disks

2008-11-03 Thread dave walton

There should be zero play in a Flex Disk. By the time you notice any,
it's too late. Any visible cracking indicates replacement.

-Dave Walton

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 4:27 PM, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I assume this all applies to W123 cars as well? I do have a pretty
distinctive klunk especially on the 3/4 shift if I'm not really under
power when that happens Downshifts as well.

Allan
--
1983 300D

On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:22:52 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
...Don, the good news is that flex disk replacements aren't terribly
expensive...

The cost of flex disks is totally irrelevant because a broken front one
can
total the car when the driveshaft starts flailing around. There are some
pictures someplace of the trans area in a car where the driveshaft got
away and it
looked like a bomb went off. Broke the trans and tore holes in the floor.

At the very least, you will be stranded someplace.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement


Here is what my invoice says:

MBZ Flex Service B$212.97
Windshield Washer Solvent   $7.04
Oil Filter  $23.00
Seal$1.90
5W-40 Oil   $48.00  
Enviro. Waste Charge$6.00   
Labor   $218.97

Flex service B changed engine oil and filter. Checked fluid levels. Added
solvent to washer system. Inspected tires and rotated tires. Set tire
pressures. Inspected brakes. Recommended rear brake pads, customer declined.
Inspected suspension and underbody. Function checked lights, horn and wiper
system. Recommended wiper blades, customer declined. Tested both batteries
Reset service counter. Recommended engine air filter, A/C dust filter, cabin
filter and brake flush. Customer declined.

They never mentioned the wiper blades and the brake flush to me. They
mentioned the other stuff and if I had told them to do it, it would have
cost me right at a grand.

Bob R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Robbins
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

Robert Rentfro wrote:
 Anywho..the service guy called and gave me a laundry list of stuff that
 could stand to be done but weren't pressing. Add totaled, his laundry
list
 of stuff, along with the $299 service,  added up to a little over a grand.
 Gotta love those service guys.

Woah!  What all did he say needed to be done?

John


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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

But you would think they would be smart enough to charge an extra $6 for the 
oil change and fill the washer fluid
for free. That charge for the washer fluid just seems petty. Either that or 
just leave it and not top it up.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 4:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement


All I can say is Atlanta Classic Cars has always changed a fair price,
done the work specified, and mentioned any other problems they found
along the way. My wife says they are by far the best mechanic
experience she has ever had. Everyone treated her with respect and not
like she was some dumb bimbo (despite what I might think :D ).

Our first wagon had been serviced by them for the entirety of its life
which is why we wen't there. Dealership only does alignments for me but
they do it right and with style (for $20 LESS than NTB *grumble grumble*).

-Rolf

Mitch Haley wrote:

 My first thought was he could have topped up his washer fluid before
 he went there and saved $6.
 My second thought was he paid $300 for an oil change, some windshield
 wash, and an attempt to sell other services.

 Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread Wilton Strickland

That's why I've done my own oil changes for 62 years (started helping
brother do 'em at 12).  'Think the oil was ~$0.20 per qt. then.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

 My first thought was he could have topped up his washer fluid before he
went
 there and saved $6.
 My second thought was he paid $300 for an oil change, some windshield
wash, and
 an attempt to sell other services.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

2008-11-03 Thread Wilton Strickland

That's why it's called STEALERship.  'Got the name the old fashioned way -
they EARNED it.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

 But you would think they would be smart enough to charge an extra $6 for
the oil change and fill the washer fluid
 for free. That charge for the washer fluid just seems petty. Either that
or just leave it and not top it up.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rolf
 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 4:10 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

 All I can say is Atlanta Classic Cars has always changed a fair price,
 done the work specified, and mentioned any other problems they found
 along the way. My wife says they are by far the best mechanic
 experience she has ever had. Everyone treated her with respect and not
 like she was some dumb bimbo (despite what I might think :D ).

 Our first wagon had been serviced by them for the entirety of its life
 which is why we wen't there. Dealership only does alignments for me but
 they do it right and with style (for $20 LESS than NTB *grumble grumble*).

 -Rolf

 Mitch Haley wrote:

  My first thought was he could have topped up his washer fluid before
  he went there and saved $6.
  My second thought was he paid $300 for an oil change, some windshield
  wash, and an attempt to sell other services.

  Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

2008-11-03 Thread LarryT

Be careful using the Mobil site for oil suggestions for older cars.  Their 
focus is on newer cars - most of their customers drive cars less than 8 
years old IMO so when asked about a car that's

~15 yrs old their info may be a little skewed.

They may however have some oils specifically for older cars - but I doubt it 
will be a 0W anything -


If it were my car I'd drain the Kendall 5W30 and put some M1 15W40 or 50 in.

Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
Porsche Posters/Weber parts
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- Original Message - 
From: Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 7:58 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)


Mobil 1 web site recommends 0W-40 for my 300E. Not to be found around 
here,
even at the Mega SuperWalMart in Ames. They had a shelf tag for it but 
when
I asked the automotive manager about availability, he sort of laughed. Not 
a

lost conversation though, because I think he is going to up his stock of
15W-50 after our chat about diesel Benz oil recommendations.

Given that I have successfully used 15W-50 in my 240D, I can't see any
reason why I can't run it in my 300E. The 15W-50 flows well in really cold
temperatures and I can't see any downside of having -40 rather than -50.

As an aside, the local Goodyear shop chose to pour in Kendall 5W-30 (the
invoice said semi-synthetic, whatever that means) when I had them do an
oil change 400 miles ago. After driving at 75 mph on I-35 from Des Moines 
to

Ames, the oil pressure needle was bouncing off of the 0 stop when I hit
stoplights on Duff Avenue. (That makes sense only to Loren.) That makes me
nervous. I reminded myself that my 240D drops the needle at stoplights and
it has run nicely for a couple of years now.
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Re: [MBZ] dash removal 201

Nothing mysterious there, couple of screws behind the speaker grilles, 
about 4 along the bottom. Much the same as a 123, the cluster will have 
to come out and the center air vent, unscrew the headlight switch and 
all the other little bits and pieces.


Hendrik

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Anybody ever removed the dash on a 201?  I am probably going to need 
to on one of mine since I think all the vacuum elements need to be 
replaced for the climate control.



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Re: [MBZ] Beaver dolly

I like the way the fire truck is following it, guess they weren't 100% 
sure this was going to work.
However I thought that seaplanes had little wheels on the side of the 
floats to enable them to land on solid ground, then again I know as much 
about planes as I do about sports cars.


Hendrik

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Not what you might think but...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X1tqCquGSI


  



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Re: [MBZ] American Diesel

The GM trash diesel was a good engine by 82. Problem was, they did so much
damage with previous years that there was no possibility of recovering.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:40 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] American Diesel

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/904173574.html

I'm almost considering this one... Must be okay its got a brand new
inspection sticker, MA is fairly picky.
Drive it for awhile and transplant the motor into an Struck Wish I had
project space. Of course if I did I'd buy the 190D 2.5l Turbo Fred and I
looked at on Saturday...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

The only way to be 100% sure is to hook up an mechanical oil gauge to 
the motor, to get an idea of what the 'actual' oil pressure is.


Hendrik

Tom Hargrave wrote:

I don't think you are being anal. Oil pressure that bounces between 0 - 1
BAR at idle  then goes full scale at road speed is not the gauge, it's the
oil pump or main bearings!

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
  


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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

You are in the minority then.  Its been my experience after 20 years, 
sometimes less, they all pretty much do it.  In fact, my old 94 E420 
even did it.  Usually when you turn the key on before the engine is even 
running you will see the guage flicker, sometimes move as far up as 
half.  Its the sender is completely bad, or the ground, it will go to full.


Tom Hargrave wrote:

I took two 300E's well past 300,000 miles and saw no electrical issues with
either. But you are right, it's easy to tell the difference.

If the jumping around is random then it's electrical. If it's not so random
(pulsing at idle, drops at warm-up) then its not electrical.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 8:18 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

Well these guages are electrical, its quite obvious to look at it that its
jumping around from electrical issues.  When I had it it would jump up to
3 at idle often.  Quite common problem on these cars.


My experience has always been main bearing problem = low oil pressure at
speed.
Seems like the viscosity may be too low -
It's *supposed* to go to the peg by 3000rpm =

For a 300E gasser I'd run 15W50 year round -
possibly 20W50 if available and it is a hot area of the country -

Sincerely,
Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
Porsche Posters/Weber parts
.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)



I don't think you are being anal. Oil pressure that bounces between 0 - 1
BAR at idle  then goes full scale at road speed is not the gauge, it's
the
oil pump or main bearings!

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Wonko the Sane
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:04 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

Is that the gauge or the sending unit? I'd like to fix it.

Just so you don't think I am totally anal -- not yet to be ruled out --
I
had the philosophy drilled into my head for years that you *trust your
gauges* (while having fun way up there in the sky, and actually being
paid
to do it) and react accordingly. If oil pressure falls to 0 on one of
the
engines, you don't say, Oh, the gauge is flaky. You beat feet for the
nearest airport and review your feather-engine checklist.

Occupational hazard I just can't seem to shake.

On Sun, Nov 2, 2008 at 7:54 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Nont to worry about the oil pressure, the guage on that car is a little
flakey.  It will bounce from about 1 or so to 0 at idle.  Real reading
is
about 1 to 1.5.




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7:56 PM


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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)


yea, if it really had 0 pressure, you would hear problems.

Gary Hurst wrote:

i hate to agree with kleb, but i think he is right here.  according to the
gauge, the ex wife's 300E was driving with zero oil pressue at idle for
years, which then shot up to 3 bar when driving.  then i changed the sender
and now it is pretty normal.

if you are really running the car with no oil pressure, problems would
become manifest pretty quickly.



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

I have a woman I deal with for business here that has the same last name 
as you.  Just FYI.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Where are located?  I will be in NJ this week for work.

Regards,
Brian Toscano
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 08:00:08 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com

Subject: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga


So car-part.com found me a diff for my 190D 2.2l 5spd in New Jersey. They want 
$450 shipped. Other diffs seem to run $150-$200 so I played with shipping a 
bit, assuming it weighs around 50# I should be able to ship it UPS for less 
than $100, its not a real big part, just heavy...

Anybody delt with Brass Castle Import Salvage before? I'm thinking I should 
call and see what the breakdown of price is. I *need* this diff but I don't 
need one made out of gold...

-Curt



  
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Chevy full-size 4WD systems

Well supposedly the old fashioned manual version is more reliable, less 
to go wrong.  Both were offered along side each other, may still be.  My 
old 87 burb had the leaver, so did my 93.  My 02 truck is push button 
but I have seen other 02's and newer with the leaver.


Alex Chamberlain wrote:

I know a lot of guys on the list have Suburbans, Tahoes, and full-size
Chevy/GMC trucks, so somebody must know the scoop on this.  I'm
looking at mid-to-late-'90s Suburbans and I think I'm seeing at least
three different kinds of 4WD systems, but I'm not sure of the details.
 Most of the '95s and '96s I've seen have the transfer case lever on
the floor labeled 2WD, 4WD LO, and 4WD HI---that makes sense to me.

I know that in 1998 the lever on the floor went away and a full-time
system was offered with a viscous coupling in the middle of the
drivetrain so that you could leave it in 4WD all the time without
ruining the front differential.  At least some of the trucks with this
system (maybe all?) have buttons on the left side of the dash to
actuate it, presumably via solenoids in the driveline somewhere.

But I just looked at a '97 and it has buttons for the 4WD on the right
side of the steering column, kind of hidden behind the shift lever.
What kind of system is this?

Anybody have any opinions to offer on the pros and cons of the various
systems?  I'm used to the simplicity of the manual transfer case on my
Isuzu Trooper, but hate the auto-locking hubs on that truck (I'm going
to replace them with manual Warns at some point). But SWMBO is going
to be driving the Suburban occasionally, and she'd definitely prefer
fully automatic AWD.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want a 190D 2.5l Turbo?

Where was this? Im sure too far away and too much money for what you
describe.

Curt Raymond wrote:

Saturday I met up with Fred and hit a junkyard where I got some cosmetic bits
for my 240D.
After that we checked out a Craigslist 190D 2.5l Turbo. The guy has that and a
'90something 190E parts car together for $1500 (Paying attention Kaleb?).
The parts car really is, they've pulled the front and rear glass for the diesel plus a couple other
things. They said the engine made a noise. From what the guy said I agree with Fred
that the noise is probably a dead lifter. The body on that car looked good and it had
proper 190 wheels.

The diesel had some stupid kiddie aftermarket wheels with rubber I was nervous
to drive on. This is the son's car he's been delivering papers with... It's
been painted twice, ostensibly by a previous owner, once to green then black.
When he did the black he barely masked so theres lots of places you can see
green. He did use A LOT of paint though, huge runs...
The turbo does NOTHING the car pulls like a 240D auto... The guy said it used
to have more power, I bet delivering papers hasn't done it any favors. The jack
points are rusted out and tin of some sort has been pop riveted over it. The
rubber shock tower bushing (the thing that holds the top of the shock) is dead
on the passenger side and knocks something awful. They did the driver's side
with one from the parts car. Fred and I couldn't believe somebody would bother
when new ones aren't real expensive... The cruise actuator is missing and the
engine is gross oily and starts hard like the glow plugs aren't working though
the light comes on and the engine was warm. The glass from the instruments was
missing as is the trim around the rear window where they did a crappy install
job. The kid has hacked in an aftermarket horn with cow and dog sounds...

On the plus side the transmission shifted fine and the steering was reasonably
tight and responsive. The brakes worked and didn't make any scary noises.

The father sounded like he was motivated to get the cars GONE. He has a 3 car
garage with no cars in it and a bunch outside... At a guess I'd say they're
housepoor, the place is in a development and has not been maintained at all.
If I had an open bay I'd go back and offer $600 for the diesel and tell the guy
I'd take $100 to haul the 190E away. He definately doesn't realize its more
liablity than selling point...

Thanks to Fred for driving on Saturday!

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

2008-11-03 Thread brian . toscano

I don't have any known family in Okla.  When is the next Okie BBQ or GTG?
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 17:31:28 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

I have a woman I deal with for business here that has the same last name 
as you.  Just FYI.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Where are located?  I will be in NJ this week for work.

 Regards,
 Brian Toscano
 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

 -Original Message-
 From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 08:00:08 
 To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga

 So car-part.com found me a diff for my 190D 2.2l 5spd in New Jersey. They 
 want $450 shipped. Other diffs seem to run $150-$200 so I played with 
 shipping a bit, assuming it weighs around 50# I should be able to ship it UPS 
 for less than $100, its not a real big part, just heavy...

 Anybody delt with Brass Castle Import Salvage before? I'm thinking I should 
 call and see what the breakdown of price is. I *need* this diff but I don't 
 need one made out of gold...

 -Curt

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
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 Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008 
 7:46 AM

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] OT: '05 Dakota

Got a call from the stealership where I'd tried a Chevy Colorado last week. 
He's sold the Colorado but he's got an '05 Dakota he wants me to look at. I'd 
seen it before but didn't drive it. The nice thing is its about $6,000 cheaper 
(and 2 years older) than the Colorado. I also consider the Dakota to be a lot 
more truck than a Colorado. I've been very happy with my '96 Dakota...

Anybody got an opinion (dangerous question wtih this group) on an '05 Dakota? 
I'm going to try to get time to test it this week, we'll see.

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga


Oh Im not sure.  If there is one, it would be in June.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I don't have any known family in Okla.  When is the next Okie BBQ or GTG?
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 17:31:28 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com

Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga


I have a woman I deal with for business here that has the same last name 
as you.  Just FYI.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Where are located?  I will be in NJ this week for work.

Regards,
Brian Toscano
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 08:00:08 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com

Subject: [MBZ] 190D Differential continuing saga


So car-part.com found me a diff for my 190D 2.2l 5spd in New Jersey. They want 
$450 shipped. Other diffs seem to run $150-$200 so I played with shipping a 
bit, assuming it weighs around 50# I should be able to ship it UPS for less 
than $100, its not a real big part, just heavy...

Anybody delt with Brass Castle Import Salvage before? I'm thinking I should 
call and see what the breakdown of price is. I *need* this diff but I don't 
need one made out of gold...

-Curt



  
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008 7:46 AM








No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008 7:46 AM




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement

They know how to make their money, 7 bucks for windshield juice. I can 
just about buy a whole bottle of juice (without the star on it of 
course) for that.
My question is how do they know that the filters need replacing, did 
they inspect them or just guess? Where do you live? Dustville? I know 
for a while (I think it was the 210) they had the air intake mounted 
real low, which meant as you drove through water the motor would suck in 
water and die but I would think that they learned their lesson and got 
that intake up as high as possible.
It would be interesting to 'inspect' the rear brakes to see how much 
meat is left on the pads, I would presume that they would be near death 
or in other words have less than 25% left.
What are the wipers like? Penny pinching on wipers is not a good idea 
(especially now you have the magic Daimler juice in the tank) but you 
don't really wanna pay their prices, when they get them from the same 
place that after market vendors do.
Might pay to pull out the engine air filter and inspect it, after all if 
it causes problems then you may well have voided your warranty by 
declining their recommendation but generally in normal driving they go 
for years. However if the car has been through a dust storm or bush fire 
smoke then it may well be dirty.


Hendrik

Robert Rentfro wrote:

Here is what my invoice says:

MBZ Flex Service B$212.97
Windshield Washer Solvent   $7.04
Oil Filter  $23.00
Seal$1.90
5W-40 Oil   $48.00  
Enviro. Waste Charge$6.00   
Labor   $218.97

Flex service B changed engine oil and filter. Checked fluid levels. Added
solvent to washer system. Inspected tires and rotated tires. Set tire
pressures. Inspected brakes. Recommended rear brake pads, customer declined.
Inspected suspension and underbody. Function checked lights, horn and wiper
system. Recommended wiper blades, customer declined. Tested both batteries
Reset service counter. Recommended engine air filter, A/C dust filter, cabin
filter and brake flush. Customer declined.

They never mentioned the wiper blades and the brake flush to me. They
mentioned the other stuff and if I had told them to do it, it would have
cost me right at a grand.

Bob R


  



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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

The gauge in my 190D flickers when I put the key on and the engine is off, 
dances a bit from 0 to 1.5 or so, taps against the stop. Start the car and it 
balances out some but flickers now from .5 to 2 or so. Once I get it above 1500 
rpm or so it sits at 3. I figure if I'm moving and it comes down off the peg I 
should shut the car off so it doesn't need to be real accurate...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 17:29:09 -0600
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

You are in the minority then.  Its been my experience after 20 years, 
sometimes less, they all pretty much do it.  In fact, my old 94 E420 
even did it.  Usually when you turn the key on before the engine is even 
running you will see the guage flicker, sometimes move as far up as 
half.  Its the sender is completely bad, or the ground, it will go to full.

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I took two 300E's well past 300,000 miles and saw no electrical issues with
 either. But you are right, it's easy to tell the difference.

 If the jumping around is random then it's electrical. If it's not so random
 (pulsing at idle, drops at warm-up) then its not electrical.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924

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Re: [MBZ] American Diesel

Yeah I figured at 26 years old with 70,000 miles if it was going to fail it 
already would have. I HATE how those older American boats ride but it would be 
an interesting ride if nothing else. Parts for everything but the engine should 
be cheap and used parts again for everything but the engine should be readily 
available...

If it were a Blazer in good shape with a diesel engine and hadn't been lifted 
or had stupd graphics or a soft top for that price I'd be all over it... I hate 
how most old Blazers I see have been seriously messed with.

-Curt

--- On Mon, 11/3/08, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [MBZ] American Diesel
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, November 3, 2008, 6:22 PM

The GM trash diesel was a good engine by 82. Problem was, they did so much
damage with previous years that there was no possibility of recovering.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:40 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] American Diesel

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/904173574.html

I'm almost considering this one... Must be okay its got a brand new
inspection sticker, MA is fairly picky.
Drive it for awhile and transplant the motor into an Struck Wish I had
project space. Of course if I did I'd buy the 190D 2.5l Turbo Fred and I
looked at on Saturday...

-Curt



  
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008
7:46 AM
 

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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1764 - Release Date: 11/3/2008
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Re: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)

2008-11-03 Thread Wonko the Sane

The 300E has been drained of the Kendall 5W-30 and refilled with Mobil 1
15W-50. Finished about 3 minutes ago. I didn't change the filter but how it
is mounted -- pretty much upside down -- suggests 99% of any Kendall in
there had drained out. The filter has only 400 miles on it.

Noticed in the owner's manual (while checking for how much oil to pour in)
that 15W-50 is a recommended viscosity.

D.


On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 4:54 PM, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Be careful using the Mobil site for oil suggestions for older cars.  Their
 focus is on newer cars - most of their customers drive cars less than 8
 years old IMO so when asked about a car that's
 ~15 yrs old their info may be a little skewed.

 They may however have some oils specifically for older cars - but I doubt
 it will be a 0W anything -

 If it were my car I'd drain the Kendall 5W30 and put some M1 15W40 or 50
 in.

 Good luck -

 Sincerely,
 Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
 www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
 Porsche Posters/Weber parts
 .
 - Original Message - From: Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 7:58 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] 300E oil question (I almost hate to ask this!)


  Mobil 1 web site recommends 0W-40 for my 300E. Not to be found around
 here,
 even at the Mega SuperWalMart in Ames. They had a shelf tag for it but
 when
 I asked the automotive manager about availability, he sort of laughed. Not
 a
 lost conversation though, because I think he is going to up his stock of
 15W-50 after our chat about diesel Benz oil recommendations.

 Given that I have successfully used 15W-50 in my 240D, I can't see any
 reason why I can't run it in my 300E. The 15W-50 flows well in really cold
 temperatures and I can't see any downside of having -40 rather than -50.

 As an aside, the local Goodyear shop chose to pour in Kendall 5W-30 (the
 invoice said semi-synthetic, whatever that means) when I had them do an
 oil change 400 miles ago. After driving at 75 mph on I-35 from Des Moines
 to
 Ames, the oil pressure needle was bouncing off of the 0 stop when I hit
 stoplights on Duff Avenue. (That makes sense only to Loren.) That makes me
 nervous. I reminded myself that my 240D drops the needle at stoplights and
 it has run nicely for a couple of years now.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Carvin PA loudspeakers?

2008-11-03 Thread Fmiser

It seems than at Mon, 03 Nov 2008 16:06:53 -0500, Allan wrote:

 Yeah that's pretty much it. Cosmetically a bit different but
 I'd bet it's the same box and internals.  Just wondering if
 anyone knew how well this kind of stuff tends to hold its
 value.  I'm looking at this as a possible opportunity do do a
 quick eBay flip if I can get a decent price on these.
 
 Allan

Ahh.

I can advise on the sonics and acoustics - but I'm not going to
be much help with the economics...  Sorry.

-- Philip

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[MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-03 Thread Michael Esh

I went to a local independent and he quoted $850.00 to replace all three tie 
rod assemblies and replace the bushings on the idler arm.   He charges 
$98.50 per labor hour.
I can get the parts from Rusty for about $150.00.  Even if he doubles his 
money on parts he is charging me 5.5 hours.  Is this out of line?



Mercedes 300TD
Mike


- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement


They know how to make their money, 7 bucks for windshield juice. I can 
just about buy a whole bottle of juice (without the star on it of course) 
for that.
My question is how do they know that the filters need replacing, did they 
inspect them or just guess? Where do you live? Dustville? I know for a 
while (I think it was the 210) they had the air intake mounted real low, 
which meant as you drove through water the motor would suck in water and 
die but I would think that they learned their lesson and got that intake 
up as high as possible.
It would be interesting to 'inspect' the rear brakes to see how much meat 
is left on the pads, I would presume that they would be near death or in 
other words have less than 25% left.
What are the wipers like? Penny pinching on wipers is not a good idea 
(especially now you have the magic Daimler juice in the tank) but you 
don't really wanna pay their prices, when they get them from the same 
place that after market vendors do.
Might pay to pull out the engine air filter and inspect it, after all if 
it causes problems then you may well have voided your warranty by 
declining their recommendation but generally in normal driving they go for 
years. However if the car has been through a dust storm or bush fire smoke 
then it may well be dirty.


Hendrik

Robert Rentfro wrote:

Here is what my invoice says:

MBZ Flex Service B$212.97
Windshield Washer Solvent $7.04
Oil Filter $23.00
Seal $1.90
5W-40 Oil $48.00 Enviro. Waste Charge $6.00 Labor $218.97

Flex service B changed engine oil and filter. Checked fluid levels. Added
solvent to washer system. Inspected tires and rotated tires. Set tire
pressures. Inspected brakes. Recommended rear brake pads, customer 
declined.
Inspected suspension and underbody. Function checked lights, horn and 
wiper
system. Recommended wiper blades, customer declined. Tested both 
batteries
Reset service counter. Recommended engine air filter, A/C dust filter, 
cabin

filter and brake flush. Customer declined.

They never mentioned the wiper blades and the brake flush to me. They
mentioned the other stuff and if I had told them to do it, it would have
cost me right at a grand.

Bob R






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Re: [MBZ] Floats

2008-11-03 Thread RELNGSON

 ...However I thought that seaplanes had little wheels on the side of the 
 floats to enable them to land on solid ground,...
 
Floats with retractable wheels (which have brakes and are steerable) are 
heavy and very expensive and the consequences of landing on water without 
retracting them always end up this way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-48V1m_MZxENR=1

In the case of flying boats such as the Grummans, Widgeon, Goose, Mallard and 
Albatross plus the PBY and the Seabee and others, a water landing with the 
gear extended is almost always fatal.

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] 115 300D won't start

2008-11-03 Thread Peter Frederick

First, the glow plug lamp will light as normal in a W115 300D with  
series plugs even if the hot  wire at the rear is off, it's not  
current operated.  Likely you have a burned out plug.


The way to check is to get a volt meter and check the voltage to  
ground from the glow plugs from back to front.  You should get a volt  
or so less at each plug.  If the voltage drops to zero at one plug,  
you have a break in the circuit there, either that plug, the one  
before, or the wire between.


There is one zig-zag resistance element in the circuit -- it should  
get VERY hot (as in glows red) while the GP are running, which is the  
fastest check.


If you do change the plugs, remember how all the wires and caps fit  
on, they have to go on in a specific order to get around the throttle  
linkage!


Peter

On Nov 3, 2008, at 12:37 PM, R A Bennell wrote:

I know this has been covered lots of times but if someone out there  
wouldn't mind, I would like to be reminded of

the procedure for checking the old style series glow plugs.

My car would not start this morning and it was in the garage and it  
is not cold out. The orange light came on as
normal and went out as normal and it cranked pretty good but never  
started. It blew clouds of grey-black smoke out
the back. I am guessing that I may have had at least one  
questionable glow plug for a while and have now perhaps
lost another. It tried to start but I could not get it to catch  
notwithstanding that I tried a number of times and
ran the battery down to where I finally decided it was best to just  
leave it alone. I put the charger on the
battery for the morning and left it in the garage. I say I may have  
had a glow plug or two bad because it has not
been starting all that strongly lately. It would start a bit rough  
and blow smoke until it evened out. I know that
I need to adjust the valves too as I have never done it and I have  
put about 9K miles on it. Don't know when it

might have had that done last before I got it.

I have a whole set of new glow plugs that I got from Rusty a year  
or more back and have never installed. I suppose
I should throw the whole set of new ones in and save any existing  
good ones for spares.


Anything special I should know about changing them out? What is the  
process for checking to see which might be bad?


Maybe the car just does not like November! I have not run it past  
Halloween in previous years as my insurance
normally runs out on the last day of October. I usually just switch  
to storage insurance and leave it in the garage
for the winter. However, I needed the car on Saturday as I had to  
go out of town and my elder son did too. He used
my Supercrew and I kept the insurance on the MB for a few more  
days. The weather is really nice here today so I was
going to drive it to work. I need to pick up some oil and do the  
change before it goes into storage for the winter

too.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Stealership Excitement